Affordable Housing Development Breaks Ground in Healdsburg

Sonoma County’s booming housing market set another record in July. The median sale price of a single-family home reached $825,000, signaling “a continued frenzy in the housing market emerging from the pandemic that has exacerbated affordability for middle-class families striving to become homeowners,” according to The Press Democrat.

In Healdsburg, one of the most expensive places to live in Sonoma County, affordable housing options are few and far between, especially in the wake of the pandemic, which has made high-earning urbanites able to relocate to larger homes in less-populated areas as they continue to work from home.

Aligning with the goal to expand workforce housing in one of the North Bay’s most expensive markets, a new housing development in Healdsburg will feature 41 low-income rentals available to Healdsburg residents and workers. The housing development, named The Exchange, will offer affordable units to those earning below 50% of the annual median income — $58,150 for a family of four and about $40,000 for an individual.

The Exchange will be part of the $500 million Mill District mixed-use development that will include luxury condominiums. The project recently broke ground on the site of a former lumber mill property just off the Healdsburg Plaza.

“These units are critical. I also think it’s a good opportunity for people to live in mixed-income units,” said Stephen Sotomayor, Healdsburg’s housing administrator, in an interview with The Press Democrat in November 2020. “Studies show a mix of incomes in different areas, including affordable housing units, makes for a more healthy community, instead of clustering certain incomes in a certain area.”

Replay Destinations, a Vancouver-based real estate developer, is in charge of turning the former lumber mill property into Mill District, which, in addition to luxury residences, will feature a retail and commercial space, a boutique hotel and a public park. The company has partnered with Eden Housing of Hayward, an affordable housing developer, to create the affordable apartments that will make up The Exchange.

The 41 affordable units, designed by Oakland-based Pyatok Architecture + Urban Design, will feature modern interiors, new energy-efficient appliances and will have central heating and air-conditioning. Common outdoor areas will have barbecues and 21 raised garden beds available to residents.

The luxury residences will be designed by Seattle-based architect Olson Kundig. The interiors will have a “restrained modern aesthetic” with open-concept floor plans, appliances by Miele, wine fridges and sliding and fixed glass walls that will connect indoor and outdoor spaces.

At a recent groundbreaking event, spirits were high as developers, investors and local leaders came together to celebrate the beginning of the new mixed-use development. The projected completion date for the Mill District is September 2022. Healdsburg council member Ariel Kelley mentioned at the event that those interested in living at The Exchange can prepare for eligibility now by working on improving their credit scores and filing income taxes.

To apply for an affordable unit, join the interest list here: edenhousing.org/properties/mill-district-affordable-apartments

To become a  reservation holder for a luxury unit, connect here: milldistricthealdsburg.com/residences

16 Sonoma Spots for Gorgeous Engagement and Wedding Photos

As pandemic restrictions loosen, many couples who previously had to cancel their wedding ceremonies are preparing to tie the knot. And no wedding is complete without lots and lots of photos.

We reached out to a few local photographers to ask which Sonoma County spots are the best locations for wedding or engagement shots. Whether you’d like to use the natural beauty of the Sonoma Coast as your backdrop or you prefer some romantic vineyard scenery, there’s no reason your photos with your partner shouldn’t be just as special as your relationship.

Click through the gallery above to discover 16 Sonoma County locations perfect for a wedding photo op. Still planning your big day? Here are a few favorite wedding venues in Sonoma County.

Petaluma’s Central Market Continues to Impress

Chasing the newest, hottest restaurant openings in Sonoma County can be exciting for a writer, but it can come at a significant cost — overlooking the restaurants that succeed year after year, the chefs that perfect their dishes month after month and the dining rooms that become part of our lives day after day.

The more I think about the overall food landscape of our county, the more obvious it is that long-standing restaurants like Central Market in Petaluma (and many others) are so beloved and so iconic that it’s a serious lapse to not showcase what’s taken years to perfect. In Central Market’s case, that is 18 years of chef/owner Tony Najiola’s life.

Dressed in his chef’s coat, Najiola looms large over the dining room — watching every dish go out, visiting every table to ensure his patrons are happy — but he never imposes. The open kitchen, dining room and bar feel airy, with full views of the wood-fired oven and the line. But it’s the food, frequently sourced from Najiiola’s Muleheart Farm, that really does the talking here: Instead of foams and potions and powders, the food is just, well, food.

Burrata with cherry tomatoes, capers and crostini at Central Market in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Burrata with cherry tomatoes, capers and crostini at Central Market in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Fresh Burrata ($16) is so simple it’s ridiculous, with fresh and buttery cream-stuffed mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, capers and crostini. The flavor comes from gently dressed tomatoes and the authenticity of each ingredient. Batter-fried Alaskan Halibut ($18.50) are pieces of delicately fried whitefish nestled into butter lettuce cups with fresh herbs and gribiche (a vinegary sauce with hard-boiled eggs) and eaten in a couple dainty bites.

The same simplicity and deliciousness goes for every dish. Take the Slow Roasted Beet Salad ($14), which tastes like fresh beets (not pickled within an inch of their lives) with earthy baked goat cheese and spicy greens.

If you order the wood-fired pizza, which you should, the Fungi ($20) is a best bet with button mushrooms, nutty Fontina, salty Parmesan and creamy leek confit.

The signature entree is Najiola’s slow-cooked Angus Short Ribs ($32) that fall to pieces at a mere touch of the horseradish gremolata and leek potato gratin.

Leave room for dessert, because the Meyer Lemon Pudding Cake ($9.50) is a heavenly mix of tart lemon curd and sponge that’s as memorable as a first kiss.

The menu changes frequently, so you’ll likely see some alterations as the seasons pass. Just don’t wait 18 years to get there.

Central Market, 42 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-778-9900, centralmarketpetaluma.com

6 Favorite Restaurants for Summer Dining in Sonoma County

Roasted garlic ranch burger at Americana Restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (Kelsey Joy Photography)

Dining editor Heather Irwin picks some favorite spots for summer dining in Sonoma County. Click through the above gallery for dishes to order. 

Folktable

Let’s not mince words. Cornerstone Sonoma has long sought, and sometimes failed, to find an audience. It’s a lovely spot with sculpture gardens, tasting rooms, and aspirational design shops.

But the glue necessary to bind it together was never there, as restaurants quietly came and went without adding to the cohesion of a larger whole.

Until now. Folktable — a project from “Top Chef” finalist Casey Thompson and executive sous chef Melanie Wilkerson — is transforming meh into magnificent. After an extended ramp-up, Folktable has spread its wings with an expanded menu, dine-in seating, and patio service in the magnificent gardens. With flowers blooming, warm sun shining, and a bustling brunch set packing the place, it’s safe to say this spot is one of summer’s big hits.

Sitting under a sprawling olive tree, we couldn’t imagine a lovelier meal: fried chicken, tater tots smothered in Kewpie mayo and bonito flakes, and a big farm salad, each dish better than the last. Folktable also has a menu for dogs (of course), coffee and pastries from an outdoor kiosk, and the Best Buttermilk Carrot Cake, which lives up to its name.

Turkish eggs at Folktable in Sonoma. Photo: Heather Irwin, Press Democrat.
Turkish eggs at Folktable in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Best Bets

Fried Chicken Goujons, $18: This is just a fancy name for chicken fingers — juicy breast meat pieces covered in sticky chile-honey sauce and served with sweet, milk-washed Hawaiian rolls, pickles, and jalapeño dipping sauce.

Turkish Eggs, $13: This dish is a beauty. Poached eggs top warm Greek yogurt punctuated by Aleppo chile butter and crunchy shallots. Dip in crusty slices of sourdough for a satisfying breakfast or brunch.

Okonomiyaki Tots, $13: Here’s a riff on the savory Japanese pancake dish, topped with creamy Kewpie mayo, sweet barbecue sauce, scallions, and bonito flakes.

Open Wednesday through Sunday. 23584 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-356-3569, folktable.com

Casino Bar & Grill – The Holly and Tali Show

The Casino Bar & Grill is a place to discover accidentally and then love unconditionally. As visitors crane their necks to see the steeple of the Saint Teresa of Avila church, made famous in Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds,” they tend to overlook an old wooden building that leans into the road at the center of town. For more than 100 years, the nondescript structure — with its neon red “CASINO” sign out front — has stood as a simple roadhouse. (It’s never been an actual casino.) Inside, the space is dark and woody, with creaking floors and an old jukebox in the corner. It’s not a place begging for attention from hipsters for its lineup of craft brews.

Salad with shrimp at The Holly and Tali Show at The Casino Bar and Grill in Bodega. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Salad with shrimp at The Holly and Tali Show at The Casino Bar and Grill in Bodega. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

On Monday through Thursday nights, local chefs and caterers Holly Carter and Tali Aiona put on the Holly and Tali Show at the Casino, preparing dinner menus reflecting the surrounding fields, farms, and fisheries.To call it a pop-up isn’t quite fair, because the duo have been creating destination-worthy food here for nearly six years — in a kitchen barely larger than its twoburner stove.

Recent menus included Panizzera sausage and brisket lasagna; orange-olive oil upside-down cake (their baked goods are incredible); Dungeness crab mac and cheese that beats every version I’ve ever had; kale and Brussels sprouts salad with prawns; tikka masala; and cider-brined pork chops with red lentils.

Don’t go in with any preconceived ideas. Just let Holly and Tali cook for you.

Open for dinner Monday through Thursday. 17000 Bodega Highway, Bodega. Order in advance; nightly menus are posted on Instagram @thehollyandtalishow. More details at thehollyandtalishow.com

Nimble & Finn’s

Guerneville’s legendary ice creamery has quietly opened a Santa Rosa outpost in Railroad Square with seasonal flavors like front porch mint chip, lavender honeycomb, and whiskey butterscotch. There are also boozy ice cream floats: We love the Permanent Holiday, featuring creamy Meyer lemon ice cream, Lo Fi sweet vermouth and Goat Rock rosé cider, and the summery Strawberry Letter, which combines strawberry sorbet, vermouth, elderflower, and Champagne. Either goes great with one of their gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches.

Open Thursday-Sunday. 123 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-666-9590, nimbleandfinns.com

Handmade organic ice cream from Nimble & Finn's in Guerneville. (Nimble & Finn's)
Handmade organic ice cream from Nimble & Finn’s. (Courtesy of Nimble & Finn’s Ice Cream)

Americana

The opening of Americana is a dream come true for Samantha and Ryan Ramey.

The owners of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford saved for years with the hopes of bringing their field-to-fork diner fare to Santa Rosa. After simmering on a back burner during the pandemic, the restaurant is all ready for summer, with odes to classic American comfort food—think 1950s favorites like burgers, fried chicken, and onion rings with a side of the best pie you’ve ever had, all sourced from local farms and ranches.

Even in its infancy, Americana is the kind of uncomplicated, from-the-heart food that speaks to the moment. Best bets include the burger with blue cheese, mushrooms, and bacon—a mouthful of a meal on a Village Bakery bun—plus a fried chicken sandwich with coleslaw for extra crunch, a classic Cobb salad, and thick milkshakes with Straus ice cream. Americana’s holy grail French fries are cooked in beef tallow, just like original McDonald’s fries. Frying fat comes from Stemple Creek Ranch (as does the beef for the burgers) and is rendered in-house. It’s not a simple process, but the results are undeniable.

Open Thursday- Sunday. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548, americanasr.com

Cafe Citti

After a long renovation of the former Whole Pie location in Santa Rosa, the iconic Kenwood Italian restaurant best loved for its Caesar salad, lasagna, and crave-worthy pasta sauces is once again in business – with a twist.

Owners Luca and Linda Citti are now focused on takeout (though there are a handful of coveted seats on the outdoor deck). Pizzas, pasta, salads and sandwiches are queued up with amazing efficiency and ready to shuttle home to your table. There’s a lot of mix-and-matching on the menu, pairing sauces with pastas or polenta, which we love. Don’t miss the fried polenta with mushroom sauce or the pollo affumicato, a smoked chicken with tomato, and lemon cream sauce that’s perfect on anything.

Open Tuesday- Saturday. 2792 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-2690, cafecitti.com

Warm asparagus salad at Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Warm asparagus salad at Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Red wine arancini at Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Red wine arancini at Coyote Sonoma in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Coyote Sonoma

“Beverly Healdsburg,” as locals sometimes call the once-sleepy ranch hamlet, is not known for its beer and chicken wings scene. But the one thing Healdsburg cannot abide, more than big-screen televisions the size of small trucks? Uninspired food. That’s why we’re smitten with Coyote Sonoma, in a hidden space in downtown’s Mill District. The spot’s Wednesday night trivia nights are becoming legendary, and the place feels like old times, when we could laugh and play games and shout out answers together.

Chef Tim Vallery has turned a ho-hum menu into something worthwhile: Reuben sandwiches with melted Gruyere; red wine arancini; and Pitman Farms chicken wings with housemade blue cheese dressing. Coyote Sonoma is just what we need right now: the familiar flavors of fun with a deft hand in the kitchen.

Open Wednesday – Saturday. 44F Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-433-4444, coyotesonoma.com

The Best Sweet Pies in Sonoma County

Pecan Pie from Sweet T’s in Windsor. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)

Could there be any dessert more ready to satisfy our collective cravings this summer than a big ol’ slice of pie? Come July, when fresh-from-the-farm summer fruits are at their peak, all other desserts need to take a back seat. Just fold all that deliciousness into a crust and bake till bubbling.

Here are a dozen amazing spots to settle in for a slice—specialty bakeries, restaurants that lean heavily on pie, even a home-based entrepreneur who turned baking into a full-time gig. Plus, we’ve got summer holidays covered with a blue-ribbon recipe for Gravenstein apple pie. (The secret? Add blackberries!)

Step Back in Time — Betty’s Fish N’ Chips

When Susan Corso and her family bought Betty’s Fish N’ Chips 24 years ago, the only dessert on the menu was cheesecake. But Corso thought cheesecake with fish was a bad call. “I felt like lemon was the perfect match, so I took a basic lemon recipe and modified it, and that’s how the Lemon Cloud Pie came up,” she explains. With a super-flaky crust, tangy lemon custard (the fruit comes from her family’s Meyer lemon trees), and huge mounds of whipped cream, the delicious pie is a throwback to a simpler time.

All of Corso’s pies—over 200 a week at peak—are served in single-sized individual portions. “The problem is, it’s very, very labor-intensive,” laughs Corso. “I’ve created this monster for myself now, because everybody loves them, and that’s what they want, so I could never change.”

The 71-year-old runs Betty’s with her son and daughter-in-law, but the pies—the famous Lemon Cloud of course, but also apricot, triple berry, and rhubarb—are all her doing. Want the recipes? So does her son. They’re all in her head, she says. And she’s promised her family that this year, she’ll actually get around to writing them down.

4046 Sonoma Hwy., Santa Rosa, 707-539-0899, bettysfishandchips.com

The famous Lemon Cloud Pie and Apple Pie from Betty's Bakery and Fish and Chips in Santa Rosa. (Photo by John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
The famous Lemon Cloud Pie and Apple Pie from Betty’s Bakery and Fish and Chips in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)

Double-Crust Wonders — Dominique’s Sweets

Dominique Cortara’s pies have loyal fans queuing up early at her farmer’s market booth. As the season unfolds, she bakes apricot, blueberry, blackberry, plum, peach, and Gravenstein apple pies. But there is a magical moment during summer’s harvest when she makes what may be the most epic of all summer sweets—a pie that combines four or more different fruits. “My favorite features nectarines, Santa Rosa plums, peaches, berries, and, when I can find them, cherries.”

Cortara has definite ideas about the structure of a perfect pie. “Pies are best with two crusts,” she explains, “as the top crust captures steam and facilitates cooking.” But because some folks like to see the fruit inside, she makes a few different lattice-top pies as well. Her flaky crust is simple: just local butter, unbleached organic flour, and ice-cold water.

Available Saturdays at the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market and Sundays at the Sebastopol Certified Farmers Market. Special orders available, 707-843-9765, dominiquesweets.com

Local’s favorites — Baker & Cook

Pastry chef extraordinaire Jen Demarest and her husband, Nick, ran the Harvest Moon Café on the Sonoma Plaza for years. They closed the busy restaurant in 2019 to focus on Baker & Cook, a more casual, neighborhood takeout shop.

Jen, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America and used to be a volunteer firefighter in her hometown of Kenwood, says her summer pies make the best of what’s at the market: caramel-peach, lemon-blueberry, and mixed berry. “I love just a simple peach and blackberry pie with a streusel topping,” she says. “The streusel makes it like a fruit crisp, but then you also have the crust.” She also makes a terrific s’more pie with a graham cracker crust, chocolate ganache, peanut butter mousse, and torched marshmallows on top. Her crusts are known to be super flaky and light. There’s no real secret, says Jen, just lots of butter. ‘That, and probably just technique — and love.’

18812 Highway 12, Sonoma, 707-938-7329, bakerandcooksonoma.com

The signature green chile apple pie from Chile Pies in Guerneville is made with a sweet apple & green chile filling and cheddar cheese crust & walnut streusel. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Chile Pies Baking Co.’s pie with cheddar green chile-apple cheese crust and a walnut streusel topping. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Old-Fashioned With a Twist — Chile Pies Baking Co.

Set in the historic Guerneville Bank Club, this pie destination cares not a whit for calories. The from-scratch piecrusts are butter-based, and the counter staffers will wisely recommend you add a scoop of Nimble & Finn’s ice cream. You can go nuts, too, and turn the combo into a fancy milkshake – ask, and they shall blend.

Owner Trevor Logan thanks his grandmother for his love of pie – she baked every week when he was growing up in Oklahoma, he says. But pastry chef Wesley Monaham’s pies are all original recipes, including the New Mexico-style green chile apple, crafted with a tart filling that’s spiked with roasted Hatch green chiles under a sharp cheddar cheese crust sprinkled in brown sugar-walnut streusel. The recipe fits Logan’s preference for desserts that aren’t too sweet.

The pecan pie brims with nuts and benefits from the delicious addition of cinnamon- kissed Mexican chocolate. There’s also an apple, blackberry, and blueberry take-and-bake crumble that’s vegan and gluten-free. And if the white nectarine and raspberry pie is on offer the day you visit, don’t miss it.

16290 Main Street, Guerneville, 707-666-9411, chilepiesbakingco.com

Classic Southern Favorites — Sweet T’s

Dennis and Ann Tussey’s shrine to Southern style cuisine has been a wine country favorite since it opened a decade ago, and why not? Everyone loves classic meals like barbecue, biscuits — and pie, wonderful pie. After the restaurant’s original home was lost in the 2017 wildfires, the restaurant returned to resounding cheers at a new Windsor location.

Pecan pie is served cold, in its sticky-crunchy, delicious glory, with a crown of vanilla ice cream slicked with caramel sauce. The Mississippi mud pie hits all the sweet spots, with a slab of mocha ice cream, and drizzled with Ghirardelli chocolate sauce, housemade caramel bourbon sauce and a cap of candied pecans, all atop an Oreo-cookie crust. And while it’s hard to get past the pecan and mud pies, explore the new banana cream pie, too. The crumbly graham cracker crust supports towering layers of banana custard and whipped cream, drizzled with chocolate and caramel sauces.

9098 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 707-687-5185, sweettssouthern.com

Pecan pie from Sweet T's in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Pecan Pie from Sweet T’s in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Gluten-Free Delicious — The Nectary

Raw, vegan, and gluten-free may, at first, seem to undercut the happy gluttony of pie, but the delicious summer offerings from The Nectary won’t leave you feeling lacking. Right now, they’re highlighting a strawberry-balsamic pie featuring fresh fruit from Petaluma’s Live Oak Farm, and a Meyer lemon-olive oil Sunshine Pie. “The juice, which is cold-pressed from local Meyer lemons, is amazing because the whole fruit is pressed, which means the juice is infused with essential oils from the peels,” explains founder Gia Baiocchi. The olive oil is from the robustly-flavored, piquant Arbequina, a Spanish olive variety.

For many pie lovers, it’s all about the crust. At The Nectary, you’ll find something unique: a vegan-friendly crust of sprouted buckwheat, dates, cashews, sunflower seeds, “activated” almonds (soaked in water for 24 hours), coconut oil, cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, and pink salt.

The Nectary, inside the Barlow, 6760 McKinley St., Sebastopol, (707) 829-2697 and 312 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0677, thenectary.net

A Slice in Hand — Criminal Baking Co.

The trick to securing a sweet treat at either of Criminal Baking Co.’s two locations is to arrive early, since owner-baker Dawn Zaft and co-baker Tayler Marsh’s made-daily hand pies sell out quickly. But it’s worth the work to wrap your taste buds around rotating flavors like sweet-tart roasted apples tossed with cinnamon, brown sugar, and lemon juice in a flaky, graham cracker crust.

To get your paws on a full-size pie, you need to order five days in advance. But that means you get to name your crust: buttery pastry, shortbread (gluten-free or regular), graham cracker, or a vegan oat and seed blend. Try silky peanut butter- chocolate cream pie rimmed in crumbles and finished with whipped cream and chocolate cookies. Or, for something different, dig into the delectable banana cream pie.

“The secret is our house-made custard recipe and a delicious smoked maple bourbon added in,” says Zaft. The pies are criminal, by the way – Zaft likes to joke that for her recipes, “fresh ingredients meet in a dark room to conspire in the ultimate taste bud heist.”

Criminal Baking Co., 808 Donahue Street, Santa Rosa, and 992 Gravenstein Hwy. South, Sebastopol, (707) 888-3546, criminalbaking.com

Summer Fruit Specialties — Jenny Malicki

“The fabulous fruit we have in Sonoma County inspires my summer pie-making,” says expert baker Jenny Malicki, adding it is also the most challenging time to bake, because of the heat. “A flaky crust needs cold,” she explains. Working with frozen dough helps maintain the layers of fat-flour-fatflour that create the beloved texture. It is important, as well, not to handle the dough too much, so that gluten does not develop.

Peach pie, made with fruit from a small orchard in Sebastopol, is a favorite, but the one that creates the most buzz is Malicki’s Atlantic Beach pie, inspired by crab shacks back East. The crust is crushed Saltine crackers, and the filling is a simple citrus custard — soft, tender, and topped with freshly whipped cream. “It is a delightful combination of sweet, salty, and crunchy,” she says.

Available at Estero Cafe, 14450 Highway 1, Valley Ford, and Americana, 205 5th St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548, americanasr.com. Malicki also serves pie at the Casino Bar & Grill pop-up, 17000 Bodega Highway, Bodega, 707-876-3185.

Exquisitely Crafted – Nom Nom Cakes

These intricate, 9-inch pies and 3.75-inch tarts are so gorgeous, you’d think they took a team of talented elves to create. But owner- baker Lana McIntire makes everything herself, all to-order, out of a licensed home kitchen she founded in 2017. She even personally handles deliveries to West County and the Santa Rosa area.

After baking her first pie at the age of nine, McIntire tested her recipes over and over until she found perfection. For summer, savor McIntire’s flawless peach pie, a labor-intensive, mouthwatering masterpiece. She marinates fruit from the Lao family farm in Sebastopol in vanilla and brown sugar, then thickens the sauce before baking. Her top crust is innovative too: a sweet-tart, eggwashed crust topped with turbinado sugar for both extra crunch and a subtle molasses flavor. No wonder she asks for a three-day lead time on all orders.

McIntire’s fruit tarts — nectarine, blueberry, raspberry, kiwi — sing of the season, with a slightly sour dough stuffed with vanilla bean custard. “But my personal favorite pie is my key lime pie,” McIntire says. “I love the creamy texture against the crunch, and the fresh whipped cream finish to balance the tart key lime.” The final flourish: toasted coconut shavings.

Nom Nom Cakes, pickup and local delivery, 805-350-0680, nomnombaking.com

Arnold Palmer Pie, with an Arnold Palmer drink, from The Spinster Sisters pastry chef Nicole Rubio . (Photo by John Burgess/Sonoma Magazine)
Arnold Palmer Pie, with an Arnold Palmer drink, from The Spinster Sisters pastry chef Nicole Rubio. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Flavor Innovation — The Spinster Sisters

Pastry chef Nicole Rubio can do all the classics—lemon cream, berry pies, a terrific old-fashioned coconut cream—but what she’s really excited about is experimenting. Rubio can work magic with combinations others might find challenging—recently, an Arnold Palmer pie, with a creamy lemon meringue that gives way to a dollop of black tea jelly in the center. “It’s new and different, but it’s approachable, because everyone drinks Arnold Palmers,” Rubio says. “And I drink a lot of tea, so anytime I can work that into a recipe is great.”

Rubio, who graduated from the culinary program at Santa Rosa Junior College just a couple of years ago and started a small side gig, Fox and Bun, during the pandemic, credits family for her creativity and drive. Rubio’s mom is Italian, and on her dad’s side, she claims Mexican and Native American Yaqui heritage. “My dad’s mom is the woman on pie,” she says. “I use her apple pie and gingerbread recipes like a bible.”

Find Rubio’s pies on Instagram @foxandbun.bake and taste them at The Spinster Sisters, 401 South A St., Santa Rosa. 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com

A La Mode is a Must — Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar

With fan-favorite takeout cafes in downtown Santa Rosa and on the plaza in Healdsburg, Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar brings together two key ingredients to satisfy a sweet tooth: excellent pies and the ice cream to go on top. The flavor combinations here are sophisticated and seasonal, such as strawberry-blueberry-ginger, peach-raspberry, and Scandinavian almond-cardamom custard, which pays tribute to the family background of co-owner Christian Sullberg. There’s also classic apple with a crumble top, and a Mississippi mud pie with s’mores—a chocolate-lover’s dream, with gooey marshmallows baked inside and a cinnamon spiced whipped cream topping. Order by the slice, or grab a whole pie to take home.

Ordering a la mode is a given here, with creamy, house-made scoops like salted caramel and coffee that allow pie fans to layer in that something extra. Sullberg says he knows the past year has been a tough one: “I want people to enjoy something indulgent.”

539 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, (707) 978-3392 and 116 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4426, thenoblefolk.com

Ingredients with Integrity — Petaluma Pie Company

Ingredients come as local as possible for co-owners Lina Hoshino and Angelo Sacerdote of Petaluma Pie Company, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary. The small mom-and-pop shop uses organic unbleached pastry flour from Central Milling in Petaluma, just a few miles away. They buy their butter and eggs down the road, too: butter from Straus Family Creamery and eggs from the free-range chickens at Coastal Hill Farm.

Hoshino and Sacerdote have a rotating lineup of fruit and cream pies— coconut, chocolate, banana—plus lime and lemon meringue pies every day, made with fruit they harvest themselves. “We switched over to an Italian-style meringue,” says Sacerdote. “It’s a cooked sugar solution added into the whites as you’re whipping them, and it’s a lot more stable. Then you use a torch.”

Another can’t miss? The Elvis Pie, which layers peanut butter pie, sliced bananas, and chocolate cream, and comes topped with loads of whipped cream, more chocolate, and chopped nuts. Fit for a king indeed.

125 N. Petaluma Blvd., Petaluma, 707-766-6743, petalumapiecompany.com

Gravenstein apple pie from recipe developer and cookbook producer Kim Laidlaw. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Gravenstein apple pie from recipe developer and cookbook producer Kim Laidlaw. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Great Summer Pie at Home

Growing up, Petaluma’s Kim Laidlaw, a cookbook author, editor, and recipe developer, loved to bake with her mother, and now she continues the tradition alongside her own daughter, Poppy. Laidlaw’s All-American recipe makes the most of Sonoma’s most celebrated local fruit, the Gravenstein apple—in this case, combined with blackberries to bubble up with tons of summer flavor. It’s a juicy, fragrant pie that’s all about the freshness of the filling. Laidlaw says you can make the dough up to a day in advance, but you’ll want to prepare the apples and berries just before baking. And feel free to play around. Laidlaw says the sweetness and juiciness of a pie is really a personal preference. Add more or less sugar, toss in a teaspoon of ground cinnamon if you like spice, or use brown sugar instead of white if you like the flavor better.

Sebastopol Gravenstein Apple and Wild Blackberry Pie

Makes 1 pie

For the crust:

2½ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

14 tablespoons (7 ounces) very cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

10 tablespoons ice cold water, plus more if needed

For the filling:

3 pounds Gravenstein apples, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges about 1/4-inch thick ½ small lemon, juiced ¾ cup packed golden brown

sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup (packed) tapioca starch

2 cups fresh blackberries (12 ounces)

1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water to make an egg wash

1-2 tablespoons raw sugar, for sprinkling Vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream, for serving

Instructions:

First, make the crust. In the bowl of a food processor, process together the flour, salt and sugar.

Sprinkle the butter over the top and pulse a few times, just until the butter is the size of large peas. Evenly sprinkle the water over the flour mixture, then process until the mixture just starts to come together (add another 1 tablespoon of water, if needed, to bring it together).

Dump the dough into a large plastic bag, and press together to flatten into a disk. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes. (At this point the dough can be refrigerated for up to one day or frozen for up to one month; before rolling out, bring to cool room temperature.) Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees (if you use a convection oven, start at 375 degrees for the first 40 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 for the remaining cooking time).

To make the filling, toss together the apple slices, lemon juice, sugars and tapioca starch. Set aside while you roll out the dough.

To roll out the dough, remove the chilled dough disc from the refrigerator.

Divide the dough in half and form into two discs.

(If the dough is too cold and firm to roll out, let it stand at room temperature for about 10 minutes.) Dust a flat work surface and a rolling pin with flour.

Place one dough disc in the center of the work surface.

Starting from the center and rolling toward the edges and in all directions, roll out the dough into a 12-inch round. As you roll the dough, lift and rotate it several times to make sure it doesn’t stick to the work surface, dusting the surface and the rolling pin with flour as needed.

To line the pie dish, gently roll the dough loosely around the rolling pin and then unroll it over a 9-inch pie dish (preferably glass) so that it is roughly centered on the pan.

Lift the edges of the dough to allow the dough to settle into the bottom of the dish evenly.

Roll out the second dough disc into a rectangle that is about 12 inches wide. Using a pizza wheel or a large knife, cut the dough into as many strips as you can; they can all be the same width (1 to 2 inches) or you can vary some thick and some thin.

You should have about 10 strips, more or less.

Gently stir the fresh blackberries into the apple mixture you’ve set aside, then spoon the mixture, including the juices, into the pastry shell in an even layer.

Lay 5 strips of dough evenly across the top of the pie, using the longest strips in the center and the shorter strips on the sides (if you have different widths, vary those as you like).

Fold back every other strip halfway, and lay down a strip perpendicular across the unfolded strips.

Repeat the process of folding back and laying down strips to weave five additional strips of dough evenly across the top of the pie.

Trim the dough (bottom crust and strips together) to leave a 1½-inch overhang.

Tuck the dough under itself to create a rim. Use your fingers or a fork to flute the rim. Place the prepared pie on a baking sheet.

Gently brush the top and edges of the crust lightly with the egg wash. Sprinkle with the raw sugar.

Bake until the crust is golden brown and the apples are tender when pierced with a wooden skewer or a thin knife, about 1 hour 15 minutes. (If the crust starts to get too dark for your liking, lay a piece of foil over the top toward the end of baking.) Let cool to room temperature (or just slightly warm, if you can’t wait), about 3 hours, and serve with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.

22 Favorite Hotel Pools in Napa Valley

As summer temperatures continue to soar, we are all searching for ways to stay cool. How about beating the heat with an overnight stay or day pass at one of the many splashy hotel properties in the area? Sonoma County has plenty of sparkling pools perfect for a hot day. As does Napa. Click through the above gallery for some of our favorites. Did we miss your favorite? Let us know in a comment below.

Outdoor Brunch at Ferrari-Carano Winery Is a Summer Dream

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery)

The everyday roar of life can be deafening. Even in relative quiet, phones chime, dogs bark, the refrigerator hums and meetings beckon. Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery, deep in the Dry Creek Valley, is a place to reclaim that inner quiet with a series of Sunday brunches running through October.

The Italian-inspired winery estate, Villa Fiore, is encircled by exquisite gardens, including an enclosed meditative garden with a footbridge and chef’s garden, as well as a spectacular fountain that splashes in the background.

Outdoor gardens at Ferrari Carano Winery. Heather Irwin
In the gardens at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Through October, you can enjoy a delicious brunch and wine tasting on the patio with just a handful of other guests. It’s a lovely affair that includes dishes like Prosciutto Benedict with estate eggs, Hollandaise sauce and Italian prosciutto; a Brunch Pizza with Journeyman bacon or the delicious Porchetta Sandwich with herbed pork, truffle aioli and pecorino cheese on a ciabatta.

Seatings from 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Sunday. Reservations are required. $85 per person ($68 for wine club members). 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. Details at ferrari-carano.com

Popular Santa Rosa Restaurants Transform Dining Experience Post Pandemic

Scallops, trout pate and tomato foccaccia at The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Prepare for changes in your dining experience as staffing woes, financial pinches, exhaustion and a quest for something just … different alter the restaurant landscape. Menus, hours, seating and pretty much everything else may change, and there’s also a sudden groundswell of ideas throughout Sonoma County that are introducing the out-of-the-ordinary.

Here are two incredible Santa Rosa restaurants representative of the kinds of changes that have us so excited about what’s next. Expect to hear about more fresh ideas at old haunts (and new spots) as we survey the new, new dining scene.

The Spinster Sisters

While the pandemic was rough for Chef Liza Hinman of The Spinster Sisters restaurant in Santa Rosa, she continued to find other ways to reach her loyal audience. First, with curbside pickup, then with creative, globe-spanning “Family Meal” dinners for two like braised chicken with artichokes, polenta and field greens with green garlic focaccia, salad and a dessert. When restrictions eased slightly, she and her staff built an outdoor garden with casual tables and the restaurant sold wines by the bottle and pantry items. Basically, Hinman did whatever she could to keep the restaurant open and staff working.

Now Hinman and many other chefs are taking stock as dining reopens. Limited staff, pandemic exhaustion and a refocus on what really matters are leading many to change business models, rethink menus and reassess what got them into the food business in the first place.

Peach salad at The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine).
Peach salad at The Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine).

For Hinman, that’s meant some radical changes. She ended breakfast and lunch service, reformatted her menu to better reflect her cooking style and realized that trying to be everything to everyone just wasn’t sustainable.

“Coming out of the pandemic, I faced a lot of tough decisions about the direction we were going to head as a business when we reopened,” Hinman said.

“After a year of traveling the globe through our Family Meal menus, I wanted to take some time and cook food that was closer to my culinary home. So I looked to New England for some inspiration — where I grew up — and also to my Italian culinary background, the cuisine I spent most of my formative years cooking in San Francisco and Sonoma County,” she said. “I decided to part ways with the menus that had defined Spinster in pre-pandemic times and start fresh — essentially, open a new restaurant highlighting our garden space and these culinary influences.”

That’s not an easy pivot, especially with longtime patrons. But Hinman said she’s ready to focus on dinner service only and that the past few months have reinforced her resolve.

“We can’t please all of the different diners — those looking for pancakes and those looking for a fine-dining dinner. And we are unlikely to go back, because we are really feeling great about our new focus.“

Her New England background is apparent in the “Ocean” section of the new menu, with dishes like baked oysters with garlic herb butter and breadcrumbs ($12); a Wild Gulf Shrimp Salad Roll ($26) and Down East Clam Chowder with bacon, potatoes and homemade oyster crackers ($12) — one of the best-tasting chowders ever, especially with the float of crunchy crackers.

Another big winner from the Ocean section is the Mt. Lassen smoked trout pate ($15) with a piquant horseradish cream, avocado, beets and seeds with adorable endive boats for dipping. Finally, if you miss the Shrimp Salad Roll (lobster has gotten crazy expensive), you’re missing not only the buttery griddled bun but homemade salt and vinegar chips that put a smile on my face ($26). And that’s just one section of the menu that also includes a charming salad with Dry Creek peaches, Akaushi flat iron steak with grilled tomatoes and a divine blueberry bread pudding.

Spend some time perusing the well-curated wine list that includes several “orange” wines, which have nothing to do with actual oranges but an ancient winemaking technique that has been gaining traction in the last several years. The syrupy orange color belies a tart, nutty, often tannin-heavy wine that’s absolutely not like anything you’ve ever had.

Get ready for curves ahead, because The Spinster Sisters is not what it was. Even so, it still has the heart and personality it’s always had in spades. Open from 4 – 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday for dinner. Family Meal dinners are available to eat in the garden. 401 S. A St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-7100, thespinstersisters.com.

Fourth Street Social

The former Jade Room in downtown Santa Rosa opened as Fourth Street Social just in time for the pandemic to start. It quietly hummed along serving only plant-based food until early 2021, when Chef Jeremy Cabrera decided to throw the whole thing sky high, reinvent the menu and bring a fine-dining feel to this pint-sized dining room.

You pretty much can’t look away from his Instagram feed @4thstreetsocialclub, featuring tweezer-ritfic plating, eye-popping rainbow hues using only plants and, of course, blue strawberries. Cabrera is clearly a tinkerer, using blue pea flower to color strawberries from the owner Melissa Matteson’s gardens and his own foraging.

Deconstructed lemon tart at Fourth Street Social Club in Santa Rosa. Photo @4thstreetsocial
Deconstructed lemon tart at Fourth Street Social Club in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Fourth Street Social)
The High Priestess with house smoked Sabe Blanco Tequila, peach and apricot nectar, peach bitters, rose and elderberry at Fourth Street Social Club. Heather Irwin
The High Priestess with house smoked Sabe Blanco Tequila, peach and apricot nectar, peach bitters, rose and elderberry at Fourth Street Social Club. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

The food is astounding, but we could do without some of the awkward folderol and pomp surrounding the dining experience. Such as, say, overly precious sections of the menu called “The Daughter” (smaller share plates) and “The Mother” (entrees) and the dishes requiring diners to order the “Penelope” (marinated pork belly) or “Daisy” (seared duck breast). The pre-meal complimentary tea is also slightly cringey (why am I getting tea?). Even the servers seem a bit embarrassed having to explain all the hoopla.

I get past it, however, for one of the best dishes I’ve had in a long, long time — the “Zuke” ($14) with roasted and torched white asparagus, fermented chiles, cherry relish, mint aioli and a shoyu-cured egg yolk topped with ube tuile. It’s tearfully lovely, but cracking the purple yam lace and releasing the salty umami yolk onto perfectly cooked asparagus is just as enjoyable. Eat with fingers for best results. Seriously, this is just so unexpected in downtown Santa Rosa.

We also love the “Lucy,” assorted seasonal housemade pickled fruits and veggies ($12). Pickled veggies are one thing, but adding fiddlehead ferns, blueberries and pickled strawberries makes it even more delightful. It’s this kind of attention that recently won the restaurant the Snail of Approval, a recognition of sustainable, slow food practices and a commitment to the core values of the slow food movement.

The “Daisy“ ($34) is a meaty dish with perfectly cooked duck breast with a bouquet of pickled and fresh cherries, watercress and dehydrated raspberries on a blackberry compote. Poured over tableside is a coconut lavender milk with herb oil. Sumptuous. Finally, don’t miss the “Lacey” ($32), a meat-free dish with roasted parsnips, cauliflower, pear rosettes, white corn succotash and lavender-smoked nectarine syrup with fried parsnip lace. I’m not a parsnip fan, but the roast made them sweet and soft, pairing so nicely with sweet summer corn.

Part of the joy of the meal is the farm-to-glass cocktails ($13), made with low-ABV spirits mixed with fresh fruit, bitters and even edible gold. Fun, without packing too big of a boozy punch.

Reservations highly recommended, 643 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3882, 4thstreetsocialclub.com

Healdsburg Restaurant Wins Wine Spectator’s Grand Award

Single Thread, a 3-Michelin star restaurant in Healdsburg, has won Wine Spectator Magazine’s Grand Award for its 2,600-bottle wine list (with a cellar holding 10,600 bottles).

This is the highest award given to restaurants that “show an uncompromising, passionate devotion to the quality of their wine programs.“ It’s an elite group, with only 97 winners in the world, among them Eleven Madison Park, The French Laundry, Le Taillevent in Paris, Spago Beverly Hills and The American Hotel in Sag Harbor, New York, which has been on the list since its inception in 1981.

“This has been a dream of mine, to be able to curate a Grand Award-winning list,” Wine Director Rusty Rastello told Wine Spectator. “We are truly honored and humbled to be the first Grand Award list in the bustling wine community of Sonoma County.“

Rastello’s team of sommeliers at Single Thread includes Alexandria Sarovich, Christopher McFall, Jonny Bar, Spencer Chaffey and Kelly Eckel.

The 2021 Grand Award winners include New Orleans’ Brennan’s and Le Bernardin in New York. More details about the Healdsburg restaurant owned by Kyle and Katina Connaughton at singlethreadfarms.com.