Page 169 – Sonoma Magazine

6 Sonoma Restaurants to Try Right Now

July 2022

By Heather Irwin

Birria Tacos with adobo marinated beef served with consomÈ from Kinaís Kitchen & Bar in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

From plant-based dishes to crave-worthy Mexican eats to the most perfect burger in Sonoma County, here’s what to eat this summer. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the restaurants and best bets.

Little Saint

Healdsburg

As chef de cuisine of the much-anticipated Little Saint cafe and restaurant, Bryan Oliver has spent the last seven months studying the subtleties of plant-based emulsifiers.

He’s been on a mission to make sure aquafaba (chickpea water) doesn’t taste like beans and tackled the challenges of creating a satisfying buttercream without butter or cream.

When building a plant-based menu to a Michelin-starred restaurant’s exacting standards, sometimes it’s as much about chemistry as it is about cuisine. “In the first few months, we were not trying to figure out a menu, but exploring the world of plant-based foods,” Oliver says. “There was a lot of playing around.”

More than a food hall, the 10,000-square-foot building that once housed SHED Modern Grange has been transformed into multi-use art, music, and performance space with a 72-seat restaurant, bar, and market selling wine and produce.

A collaboration between Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Healdsburg’s Single Thread; designer Ken Fulk; philanthropist Jeff Ubben and his wife, animal activist Laurie Ubben; and program director Jenny Hess; Little Saint aims to forge a new vision for vegan dining and sustainable living.

25 North St., Healdsburg. 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com

Cocktail from Little Saint in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)

Best bets

The grab-and-go Larder section, with prepared salads (beet with coconut yogurt, potato with soy-milk aioli, farro with fresh asparagus). Plus Quail and Condor bread and housemade dips like red lentil hummus and creamy cultured cashew. Available from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., the larder is a good toe-dip into the flavors of Little Saint.

Cauliflower Biryani for two ($39): Basmati rice, curried cauliflower and pickled golden raisins are finished in a woodfired oven and topped with crispy onions and dried rose petals. Easily enough for three or four people, it’s a hearty Indianinspired rice dish that lets the aromas of cinnamon, turmeric, black pepper, and nutmeg do all the talking. Sweet-pickled kohlrabi and citrus hot sauce ramp up the flavors even more.

Cocktails: Matthew Seigel’s bar program helps the restaurant form a sustainable “closed loop,” using the cooking water from beets and purple carrots to add rich color and earthy bass notes to cocktails, for example.

Kina’s Kitchen & Bar

Sonoma

When Picazo Kitchen & Bar opened in Sonoma in April 2019, owners Sal and Kina Chavez had high hopes.With community support for their other businesses, it seemed a natural extension. Then came two years of fires and the pandemic.

Needing a fresh start, the couple have rechristened the space as Kina’s Kitchen & Bar, with a menu that better reflects Kina’s journey as a Mexican American raised on her mother’s pozole, and her passion for modern American cuisine.

The new menu includes more dishes from her childhood and a fresh cocktail menu with tequila and mezcal from Mexico. Try fried brussels sprouts with pepper jam and bacon, birria nachos, beef noodle pho, fried chicken with Mexican gravy, or lemon cottage cheese pancakes.

19101 Highway 12, Sonoma. 707-935-3287, kinaskitchenbar.com

Chicken Chimichanga with mozzarella, cilantro rice, cotija cheese, grilled corn, pico de Gallo and chipotle aioli from Kinas Kitchen & Bar in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Chicken Chimichanga with mozzarella, cilantro rice, cotija cheese, grilled corn, pico de Gallo and chipotle aioli from Kina’s Kitchen & Bar in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Birria Tacos with adobo marinated beef served with consomé from Kinas Kitchen & Bar in Sonoma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat) — Birria Tacos with adobo marinated beef served with consomé from Kina’s Kitchen & Bar in Sonoma. (John Burgess \/The Press Democrat)

Sol Food

Petaluma

Though the outpost of this popular Marin Puerto Rican restaurant opened in March, it took nearly two months to get the kitchen staffed enough to open its doors for indoor seating and a full menu.

The sprawling space that once housed Sauced BBQ in Petaluma’s Theater District now features Sol Food’s famous pink frijoles and craveworthy dishes like pollo al horno (chicken thighs); camarones empanizados (breaded fried prawns and plantains); and a much-loved Cubano sandwich with roast pork, ham, pickles and Swiss.

Now that they’re fully open, larger dishes like coconut milk french toast, arroz con picadillo (ground beef with seasoned rice), coconut stew with shrimp, and mofongo (Creole prawns with garlic and tomato) are welcome additions. Don’t forget a bottle of pique (spicy vinegar sauce) to pour on … everything.

151 Petaluma Blvd. S. 707-347-5998, solfoodrestaurant.com

La Fondita and Cantina

Santa Rosa

There is nothing understated about a bucket-sized margarita or an 80-ounce beer tap at your table, but that’s what makes this downtown Santa Rosa restaurant and late-night bar the hottest fiesta in Sonoma County.

Though a quiet cantina by day with nine pages of regional Mexican and California classics, things get a little wild after 8 p.m. On weekends, mariachi bands fill the space with music, and staff parade through the restaurant with flashing lights and whistles to announce the arrival of mega-margaritas and wacky drinks like la Pitufina (the Smurfette), with vodka, ice cream, and bright blue Curaçao. Fortunately, the kitchen is open late to soak up all the booze.

The Third Street location is the second for the local Reyes family, who opened the Roseland location of La Fondita in 1996. Known for their massive platters of food, sweet and creamy elote, and family atmosphere, owner Ivy Reyes says the new downtown spot is all about vamos con todo, meaning “We’re all in!” After a drink or two, you will be too.

630 Third St., Santa Rosa. 707-843-7595

Machado Burgers

Santa Rosa

Is Machado’s bacon cheeseburger the most perfect burger in Sonoma County? Quite possibly.

This Larkfield walk-up counter offers jaw-busting creations that check all of our “perfect burger” boxes. Chewy (but not too soft) Franco American buns easily hold up to a meaty grilled beef patty, oozing cheese, shredded lettuce (please stop putting entire leaves on burgers, people!), salty pickles, onions, tomato and a just-right mustard sauce. Also, Piggy Tots: tater tots topped with homemade chili, pulled pork and more.

We’re in hog heaven.

406 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa. 707-546-6835

A La Heart

Forestville

This longtime events catering company has moved to Forestville and now offers picnic-ready prepared salads, sandwiches and baked goods along with espresso drinks and dinner kits. We love stopping by to see what new surprises (fried chicken sliders, giant cinnamon rolls) land on the menu each week.

6490 Mirabel Road, Forestville. 707-527-7555, alaheart.com

Chill Out with These 3 Refreshing Reds for Summer

June 2022

By Sarah Doyle

At Scribe Winery in Sonoma Valley, co-owners and brothers Andrew and Adam Mariani produce two expressions of mission, a rustic, low-tannin red varietal they serve lightly chilled. One is a still wine; the other is sparkling. And both are beguiling.

“Low-tannin wines really lend themselves to being chilled — they go hand in hand with freshness,” Adam Mariani says. “Mission is a spicy, peppery grape, but it has a levity and lightness to it. When it’s chilled, it becomes wild, juicy and energetic.”

For Andrew, a light chill “can lift some red wines and focus the fruit.”

“It’s like putting a warm summer peach in the refrigerator,” he says. “The chill gives the fruit a little sharp, refreshing edge — more energy and pop.”

When the mercury rises and barbecues beckon, a glass of chilled red wine can be an unexpected delight. Refreshing and fruity, with a gentle heft, they can be a versatile alternative to white wine or rosé and a welcome guest at a summer gathering.

For reds that are good chilled, look for light- to medium-bodied red wines that are lower in alcohol, tannin and oak, like a lighter-bodied pinot noir or grenache. (Shutterstock)

What to look for

Erin Miller, wine director and sommelier at Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, has fond memories of sipping chilled red wines at the beach when she lived in the south of France.

“Chilled reds are incredibly quaffable and perfect for a picnic,” she says. “But they can be a serious option at the table, too.”

Miller, who likes to serve chilled reds with cool or room-temperature foods, like salads, charcuterie, pizza or tapas, said there are a few things to keep in mind when choosing and chilling a red.

First, look for light- to medium-bodied red wines that are lower in alcohol, tannin and oak, like a lighter-bodied pinot noir or grenache. Gamay, the fresh, aromatic varietal widely known in Beaujolais, is also a good option.

For chilling, Miller is particularly fond of Camp Rose Cellars 2019 “The Prince,” Sonoma Coast ($38), a surprisingly lean and bright cabernet franc. She also likes Leo Steen 2019 Grenache, Provisor Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley ($42), which has a touch of earthiness.

Next, Miller says, “It’s better to aim for lightly chilled versus ice-cold, because very cold temperatures can emphasize the tannin and oak in a red wine and mask its bouquet.”

For most chillable reds, she suggests aiming for a temperature that is cooler than your kitchen, but not as cold as the refrigerator: somewhere in the ballpark of 45 to 55 degrees.

Red wine in ice bucket — To chill a red wine quickly, place the bottle in a bucket filled with ice and cold water and chill for about 15 minutes. (Courtesy of Kanawa Studio)

How to chill out

To chill a red wine quickly, place the bottle in a bucket filled with ice and cold water and chill for about 15 minutes. Don’t let the wine sit too long in the ice water or it will become too cold.

If you have more time, you can place the bottle in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes — just be sure to set a reminder. If you want to chill your red wine in the refrigerator overnight, remove it about 15 to 30 minutes before serving and let it sit on the counter to rise in temperature. Bonus tip: Cold whiskey stones or reusable ice cubes can chill a single glass of wine quickly.

“If you’re interested in a chilled red and are uncertain what to buy or what temperature to aim for, I recommend asking your favorite wine adviser or shop for advice,” Miller says. “Individual wines vary greatly, so it can be helpful to ask someone in the know.”

In the meantime, here are three chilled reds to get you started:

Scribe Winery 2021 Estate Mission, Sonoma, $48, scribewinery.com

Camp Rose Cellars 2019 “The Prince” Cabernet Franc, Sonoma Coast, $38, camprosecellars.com

Leo Steen 2019 Grenache, Provisor Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, $42, leosteenwines.com

You can reach staff writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com.

Popular Santa Rosa Taco Truck Is Back in an Unexpected Location

June 2022

By Heather Irwin

Quesabirria meaty tacos with a side of consome from the Tacos Tijuana food truck at Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa on Friday, October 22, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The well-worn Wagon Wheel Saloon in north Santa Rosa has been called many things over the years, but a food truck hot spot is not one of them — until now.

Once infamous for its cast of colorful (and sometimes felonious) characters, the faded green bar is now ground zero for some of the county’s best quesabirria.

In late May, fluttering banners advertised Tacos Tijuana would be coming to the 3320 Mendocino Ave. location. Curiously, the owners of Tacos Tijuana posted on social media that the business had permanently closed in May.

So, was the new Santana-themed mobile kitchen emblazoned with the Tacos Tijuana logo the same taco favorite, or an impostor?

Co-owner Uriel Brena considers it more like Tacos Tijuana 2.0. His former business partners, Miguel Canseco of Taqueria El Paisa and Chef Jose Rodriguez of El Fogon Taqueria, left the business after the truck struggled to make a profit in its first six months at Shady Oak Brewing, according to Brena.

“We tried really hard, but it just wasn’t paying the bills,” said Brena, who continues to handle the business side of the food truck. A marketing professional and political consultant by day, Brena got into the restaurant business after volunteering his services to local restaurants during the pandemic. That led to co-ownership in Tacos Tijuana, whose tasty quesabirria tacos were tapped as favorites by The Press Democrat.

So, without partners, and stuck with a $60,000 used food truck, Brena decided to forge ahead and strike a deal with the Wagon Wheel’s owners to host the mobile kitchen. Tacos Tijuana’s original chef, Edwin Hernandez, and two of Hernandez’s family members have become Brena’s new business partners.

The menu remains much the same, with their signature quesabirria — a crispy, cheesy, beefy handful of happiness — as good as it ever was. New items are coming onto the menu weekly, including conchinita pibil and tacos al vapor (steamed tacos).

ChoriVegan nachos with black beans, vegan chorizo, vegan mozzarella cheese, bell peppers, avocado, vegan sour cream, diced green onions, dice tomatoes, chopped cilantro, avocado and green salsa from the Tacos Tijuana food truck at Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa on Friday, Oct. 22, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — ChoriVegan nachos with black beans, vegan chorizo, vegan mozzarella cheese, bell peppers, avocado, vegan sour cream, diced green onions, dice tomatoes, chopped cilantro, avocado and green salsa from the Tacos Tijuana food truck at Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa on Oct. 22, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

In early July, chicken parmigiana and Philly cheesesteak sandwiches will also be added to the menu, Brena said. He tapped Chef Gerard Giudice from Sally Tomatoes Catering and the Heirloom Cafe in Rohnert Park to help perfect his sandwich game after working with Giudice on his successful campaign for Rohnert Park City Council.

Brena plans to add his mother’s chile rellenos as part of an expanded vegetarian menu that includes Soyrizo Nachos, zucchini blossom quesadillas and huitlacoche (a corn fungus with a mushroom-like flavor) tacos. He cautions that although the items are prepared vegetarian and vegan, the grill is also used to cook meat.

For now, quesabirria remains the top seller, but meatless options like the flor de calabaza (squash blossom) are also popular. Paired with a stiff gin and tonic at the Wagon Wheel, you can’t possibly go wrong.

3320 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily with $1 tacos on Tuesday. Delivery orders at 707-296-3000. More details on their Instagram page, @tacostijuana707. Parking can be a little tricky, and the only exit is a right turn onto Mendocino Avenue.

15 Super Summery Eats and Drinks in Sonoma County

June 2022

By Heather Irwin

Banh mi tacos at Lagunitas Brewing in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)

It’s the loveliest time of year in Sonoma County, when farm stands are laden with fresh strawberries, flower bouquets and first-of-the-season tomatoes. Boozy outdoor brunches and face-plants into giant waffle cones are now seasonally appropriate, along with hogging a lovely patio table for a little too long.

So, in the spirit of gas economy and weekend adventures, here are 15 recently discovered summery Sonoma County spots worth visiting. They’re all shorts- and sundress-approved and waiting for you to put your Hot Girl (or Boy) summer bod on the back burner and enjoy the delicious things in life.

Santa Rosa

Mangonada from Fru-ta: If summer had a flavor, it would be the sweet, sour, salty, spicy, icy mangonada at Fru-ta. Made with fresh mango, mango sorbet, lime, chamoy (a pickled stone fruit condiment) and lime and dusted with Tajin, it’s everything a cold drink should be. The tamarind paste-wrapped straw just adds to the puckery deliciousness. Pairs perfectly with Takilocos, a mixed bag of Takis rolled corn chips, peanuts, cucumber, lime, jicama and pickled pork rinds. Three Santa Rosa locations: 2770 Stony Point Road, 52 Mission Circle and 3080 Marlow Road. frutaicecream.com. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

A Mangonada made by Teresita Fernandez at La Michoacana in Sonoma. The drink consists of blended fresh mango with ice, swirled chamoy sauce, topped with mango chunks and tamarind candy, and a tamarind stick. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Shady Oak Barrel House: We love the lineup of food trucks as much as the funky beers at this downtown Santa Rosa brewery. Hang at the picnic tables in the back with some of the area’s best food trucks and pop-ups, including Smackin’ Soul Food, pizza from SoCo Supper Club or burgers from Lunch Box. 420 First St., 707-575-7687, shadyoakbarrelhouse.com. Open 3 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Geyserville

Rosé at Locals Tasting Room: Yes, Virginia, you still can taste wine for free. Though no purchase is required to sample the nearly 80 wines, chances are you’ll find at least one bottle to buy from this collective tasting room. The Dernier-Handal chenin blanc blend is a favorite summer sipper. 21023 Geyserville Ave., 707-814-0713, localstastingroom.com. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Dank beer and barbecued lamb at Corner Project Ales and Eats: At this family-run brewpub in Geyserville, one brother brews while the other operates the kitchen. More than just fried pub grub, Chef Tom Adamian’s menu includes lots of comforting dishes like meatball sliders, pulled lamb on focaccia with preserved lemons, and a perfect pickled veggie sando on thick slices of bread (my favorite). They also sell beers from other brewers; try the funky Smelltron 3030 from Santa Rosa’s Cooperage Brewing Co. or the super-refreshing Lavender Radler from Rohnert Park-based Old Caz Beer. 21079 Geyserville Ave., 707-814-0110, cornerprojectales.com. Open noon to 8 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, noon to 3 p.m. Sunday.

Healdsburg

La-Yu from SingleThread Farm: The owners of Healdsburg’s SingleThread restaurant have opened their new Dry Creek Valley farm stand, selling fresh flowers and perfect produce ($6 strawberries, worth every penny), as well as artisan donabe clay cooking pots, handcrafted knives and bespoke dishes used at the restaurant. Don’t miss larder items like Chunky La-Yu (chile oil), barrel-aged ponzu and yuzu kosho, a Japanese condiment made with chiles and citrus. 2836 Dry Creek Road, singlethreadfarms.com. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

Wine and pizza at Bacchus Landing: An impressive collection of tasting rooms that feature exceptional wines, including AldenAlli (a collaboration between Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne Winery and celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse), The Setting Wines (vintner Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars) and Smith Story Wine Cellars (Alison Story). Though Bacchus Landing looks like a faux Tuscan villa, there’s plenty of space to lounge, sip and nibble, with a new wood-fired pizza oven and frequent food trucks and pop-ups, including Black Piglet and Bayou on the Bay. 14210 Bacchus Landing Way, 707-395-0697, bacchuslanding.com. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

The Smith Story Wines tasting room at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Smith Story Wines)

Thai at Tuesdays on the Plaza: This relaxed Tuesday gathering with mostly locals features music, arts and our favorite Thai food pop-up, Sangsan. Look for Thai wok omelets and strawberry milk ice from chefs Ploypailin Sakornsin and Jeremy Kuo (both SingleThread alums). Open 5 to 8 p.m. Tuesday on the Healdsburg Plaza and 8:30 a.m. to noon Saturday at the Healdsburg farmers market, sangsanhealdsburg.com.

Monte Rio

Shakshuka at Lightwave Coffee & Kitchen: Located at the Creekside skate park in Monte Rio, this curious little cafe sells smoothies, bagels and Middle Eastern cuisine, including rich, tomato-based shakshuka. Watch for freshly baked desserts and creative specials from owners Ori and Gal Ginzburg. Or just grab a coffee from the walk-up window and watch the gnarly board slides and cringeworthy lip skids. 9725 Main St., 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site. Open 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Petaluma

Strawberries at Stony Point Strawberry Farm Stand: Insiders know this is the spot for the best strawberries. This organic fruit and vegetable farm sells berries still warm from the sun. 735 Stony Point Road, 510-917-0514. Open 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.

Lagunitas Taproom: There’s plenty of fun to be had for humans and dogs at this family-friendly, convivial Petaluma beer garden. The sprawling semi-covered outdoor space has picnic tables for people and plenty of slobbery water bowls for thirsty pooches. Seasonal offerings and tasty grub make it a must. 1280 McDowell Blvd., 707-778-8776, lagunitas.com. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Sebastopol

Piggy Punch at Third Pig Bar: This brand-spanking-new bar from the owners of Graton’s Bowman Cellars serves fresh craft cocktails, including the dangerously delicious Piggy Punch made with rum, Swedish Punsch, chicha morada (a purple corn drink), lime and cardamom bitters. They come in piggy cocktail glasses, and you’ll be oinking for more. Classic cocktails like the Mai Tai and Southside (gin, lime, orange bitters and mint) warm the summery, garden-like space. 116 S. Main St., thirdpigbar.com. Open 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Singing Frogs Farm at the Sebastopol farmers market: There are so many local farms and farmers markets to love, but this Sunday market has the goods from my favorite permaculture, regenerative, sustainable farms in Sonoma County, including Singing Frogs Farm, a family-run, no-till farm that’s won many awards for its methods. The best of west county is at the Sebastopol market, along with J.E.S. plant-based foods, The Green Grocer and more. 6908 Weeks Way, 707-522-9305, sebastopolfarmmarket.org. Open 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday.

Sonoma

Dinner and a movie at Delicious Dish: Family-safe(ish) cult movies like “Cry Baby” and “Airplane!” pair with a casual patio dinner and plenty of fun at this Sonoma restaurant and catering company. The July 9 dinner (with Johnny Depp as Cry Baby) pays homage to Baltimore with fried green tomato and blue crab melts, Old Bay chips, peach and tomato salad and Baltimore’s famous fudge-iced Berger cookies. 18709 Arnold Drive, 707-721-4231. By reservation only, at deliciousdishsf.com/popup.

Picnic before the show at Transcendence: A night at Jack London State Historic Park watching Broadway stars perform has become a summer tradition. If you’re planning to go, one of the best parts of the evening is the dining experience before the show. You can pack a picnic, but it’s far more fun to grab food from one of several food trucks parked on the grass. Premium picnic table spots can be reserved for $50 when you purchase your tickets. 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 877-424-1414, transcendencetheatre.org.

Windsor

Tea time at Fleur Sauvage Chocolates: After years at farmers markets, Chef Robert Nieto opened his first brick-and-mortar store and kitchen in late 2021. It’s a gourmet dessert wonderland with truffles and cakes from one of the world’s top pastry chefs. Now he and wife Tara have started a Wine Country Tea Time with sweet and savory goodies. 370 Windsor River Road, 707-892-2162, fleursauvagechocolates.com, by appointment only.

Brand New Mid-Century Marvel for Sale in Sonoma

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

A masterful new home built in up-to-date, mid-century style is available in Sonoma. The four-bedroom, four-bath, 4,080-square-foot home situated on a hilltop overlooking the Sonoma Valley and San Francisco is available for $9.95 million.

The home’s design by San Francisco-based firm Klopf Architecture embraces mid-century modern tastes to the fullest. This popular design preference doesn’t seem to be going anywhere given our love of seamless indoor/outdoor spaces and the tranquil aesthetic modern designs can offer. Eichler values are fully intact in this design: floor-to-ceiling windows, flat roofs, visible beams and squeaky clean lines with no ornamentation. But a lack of ornamentation doesn’t mean a lack of sumptuousness.

White oak cabinets and Calacatta marble provide rich texture in the kitchen. (Paul Rollins)

The design impact manages to be both strong and subtle. A simply designed cabinet gains its warmth through the rich white oak it’s made from. Calacatta and statuary marbles provide natural but bold accents in the bathrooms and kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows just can’t fail on this lot. The sky views at the top of the hill have a dreamy up-in-the-clouds feel.

Staging by Los Angeles-based Meridith Baer Home, with the input of listing agent Ginger Martin, follows through on understated design to achieve maximum beauty. Modern furniture — like armchairs in playful round shapes — adheres strictly to a white, black or tonal palette. Color is used with extreme restraint. There are ribbons of pale blue in a large abstract painting. Produce in dishes successfully serve as the color accents in the single-tone kitchen. The home provides a perfect example of how subtlety can really stun.

Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. Three repeating wave-shaped lawn chairs with white and gray pillows add a sense of graceful movement and discipline. It’s a bit of an echo to what the architect calls “a rhythmic post and beam design” — referring to the repeating design element along the rear exterior of the home.

Outside, an infinity edge pool keeps the “invisible” aesthetic going. (Paul Rollins)

Landscape by San Francisco-based Arterra Landscape Architects consists of a few plantings chosen for water conservation and fire resistance, according to Martin. The design allows the natural rocky setting to take center stage, while bits of greenery have been added for a subtle sense of lushness. A few rocky outcroppings frame the views and take on the presence of abstract art.

The design takeaway is strong in this home. The concept of “less is more” is very present. It isn’t minimalist, but rather a thoughtful layering of well-designed pieces, exquisite materials and a few playful elements. Sky views don’t hurt either.

This home at 2979 Wood Valley Road is listed by Ginger Martin and Matthew Joseph of Sotheby’s International Realty, 1229 Adams St., St. Helena, 415-516-3939, ginger@gingermartin.com, gingermartin.com.

Petaluma Home Remodeled in an Easy-Breezy Modern Style

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

A sizable home and ADU (2,950 square feet and 1,200 square feet, respectively) with a super-modern meets beachy style is for sale in Petaluma. The dwellings — which together have four bedrooms and four bathrooms — have been renovated into a contemporary style that veers from some of the lovable modern trends we’re seeing right now. It isn’t farmhouse, and it’s not classic mid-century either. The original home was built in 1995 and has been reimagined for living and relaxing according to today’s tastes.

The home has a simple style with the ever-popular whited-out look to give off the calm feel people are craving in today’s busy and visually noisy world. But the tranquility-forward aesthetic has some rich color thrown in. Many stained wood elements are included, such as flooring, bookshelves, kitchen cabinets and furniture.

Elements like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls of the ADU. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)

There are brilliant touches of bright color, too: deep blue tile in the ADU’s kitchen, orange umbrellas outside and a welcome sea-foam-colored paint in the bathroom (hello, ’90s). These elements come together to make an inspired and soothing environment.

When you learn that the homeowners lived in Hawaii, it makes sense that this home would have those satisfying beachy vibes. But there are no clichés here. It’s not all starfish pillows or “sandy feet” signs. The home just borrows the pretty palette of the oceanside for its subdued tropical appearance.

An ADU sits on a second story above the garage offering panoramic views. The design elements are not an afterthought. Details like aqua-colored dining chairs and multi-colored textiles add vibrant color to the stained woods and white walls.

The home’s sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a stone patio with a simple rectangular pool and hot tub combo. (Rob Sullivan – Vanguard Properties)

The sparse and tranquil vibes are carried outside to a simple rectangular pool and spa combo. The bottom of the pool is lined with pebbles that provide a sensory treat for world-weary feet. The black pebble bottom absorbs temperatures well, according to listing agent Rob Sullivan, allowing the pool to heat on its own. Plants grow separated in “islands” — a disciplined look that’s modern both visually and in terms of fire resistance.

The homeowners tended to a variety of details, from a fire-safe steel roof to super-convenient motorized blinds.

All of this living space is priced at $3.2 million.

For more information, contact listing agent Rob Sullivan with Vanguard Properties, 151 Petaluma Blvd. South, Suite 137, Petaluma, 707-772-9171, vanguardproperties.com/agent-17011-Rob-Sullivan.php.

25 Favorite Hikes in Sonoma County

June 2022

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Peri Olsson of Santa Rosa takes her dog Teddy on a walk at Taylor Mountain Regional Park and Open Space Preserve in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)

Grab your backpack, fill up the water jug and lace up those boots. It’s time to take a hike! Sonoma County boasts thousands of acres of diverse park land, from cool redwoods and oak woodlands to mountainous terrain and open grassy meadows.

Remember to use caution in Sonoma’s wildlands — stay a safe distance from the edge of steep mountain cliffs and coastal bluffs, which can erode, as well as wild animals, which may feel defensive of their offspring and territory. Contact respective ranger stations for park rules and accessibility accommodations.

Santa Rosa

Taylor Mountain Regional Park: If you’re looking for an Instagram-worthy hike, we recommend the Sky Lupine Trail to the Taylor Mountain summit. Starting from the Kawana Terrace Entrance, this moderate 2.3-mile trail (one way) traverses up a 1,000-foot hill and, in spring, past a variety of wildflowers. Lupine, tidy tips, woodland stars, poppies and the golden curlicues of fiddleneck make for great photos. The views at the summit aren’t bad either. Plus, the park recently opened up an 8-mile network of new trails. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset; $8 parking fee. 2080 Kawana Terrace. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Spring Lake Regional Park: Spring Lake is perfect for hikers of all abilities, with 10 miles of trails linking to Trione-Annadel State Park and Howarth Park. Family-friendly trails can end with picnic and play at Howarth Park, and hikers looking for a more intense trek can tackle the Annadel trails. Throughout the year, the changing colors of the surrounding landscape reflect off the water, creating a mirroring effect. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset. Parking is $12 in summer and $8 the rest of the year. 393 Violetti Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Trione-Annadel State Park: Colloquially referred to as “Annadel,” this park is Santa Rosa’s go-to spot for casual and serious hikers alike. A simple Sunday stroll at Spring Lake may just turn into a four-hour excursion through Annadel’s over 45 miles of trails. The 1.2-mile Spring Creek Trail is the best bet for hot summer days — it’s completely shaded by bay, alder and redwood trees and ends at Lake Ilsanjo, where hikers can fish (with a fishing license) or lunch at the picnic tables. From there, intrepid hikers can take the Rough-Go Trail to learn just how it earned its name. Open 8 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 6201 Channel Drive. parks.ca.gov

Howarth Park: This park near Spring Lake in Santa Rosa offers up plenty of family fun with a playground, mini-amusement park and train rides. The park is also home to several relaxing trails that loop up and around the lake. Open sunrise to sunset; parking is free. 630 Summerfield Road. srcity.org

Hood Mountain Regional Park: This is the perfect spot for seasoned hikers and those looking for a rugged challenge. A highlight of the park is the Hood Mountain summit, which stands at 2,730 feet, part of the Mayacamas Mountains. The trail climbs through grassy meadows and pine forests. A favorite for intrepid hikers is the trek to Gunsight Rock, which overlooks the Golden Gate Bridge on a clear day. Want a tougher challenge? Try taking the Goodspeed Trail that spans over 8 miles and connects to Sugarloaf Ridge. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 1450 Pythian Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Note: Due to impacts from the 2020 Glass Fire, Hood Mountain’s Summit Trail, Santa Rosa Creek Trail, Azalea Creek picnic area and campground, and sections of Alder Glen Trail and Lower Johnson Ridge Trail remain closed.

Kenwood

Sugarloaf Ridge State Park: With over 25 miles of trails that weave through oak woodlands and along babbling brooks, Sugarloaf has the right trail for everyone. The Canyon-Pony Gate Loop trail leads to a glorious 25-foot waterfall, which flows full-force during the rainy season. The half-mile Nature Trail is ADA accessible with ADA parking at each end. For those looking for a more strenuous hike with stunning views, the 6.6-mile Bald Mountain Loop traverses 1,529 feet up to the peak, where you can see as far as Mt. St. Helena to the north and San Francisco Bay to the south. Open from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily; parking is $8 for seniors (62 and over) and students, $10 for general admission. 2605 Adobe Canyon Road. 707-833-5712, sugarloafpark.org

Glen Ellen

Jack London State Park: This historic landmark features over 1,000 acres of stunning nature and literary history. Visitors can see the ruins of London’s dream home via the 1-mile, round-trip Wolf House Historic Trail. The 8-mile, out-and-back Sonoma Mountain Trail explores the shady Kenwood countryside at the base of the mountain, offering a more difficult yet rewarding trek. The park is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; $10 vehicle entry fee. 2400 London Ranch Road. 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com

Sonoma Botanical Garden: This Sonoma Valley treasure boasts one of the largest, wild-sourced, Asian plant collections in North America and Europe. Visitors can download an app, Bloomberg Connects, for self-guided tours through the verdant woodlands. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; $17 for adults, $14 for seniors (65 and over), $8 for youth ages 5-17, active military and teachers, and free for children 4 and under. 12841 Highway 12. 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org

Sonoma Valley Regional Park: Located in the center of Sonoma Valley, this 202-acre park features several shaded picnic areas and various short trails around ridges and hillsides. The paved, ADA accessible, 1.2-mile Valley of the Moon Trail winds through a forest of oaks along a seasonal creek. Near the parking area, the fenced Elizabeth Perrone Dog Park allows dogs to play off leash (though they must be leashed on trails). Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 13630 Highway 12. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Sonoma

Montini Open Space Preserve: Located just past Sonoma’s Field of Dreams recreational park, Montini’s Sonoma Overlook Trail opens up to vast oak woodlands and open grasslands. The Valley of the Moon Trail provides awe-inspiring views of the city and Sonoma Mountain. Dogs, bicycles, horses and smoking are prohibited at the preserve, except for ADA service dogs. Open dawn to dusk daily. Sonoma Overlook Trailhead, 198 First St. W., overlookmontini.org

Petaluma

Helen Putnam Regional Park: Located in southwest Petaluma’s Chileno Valley, the park’s 6 miles of trails meander along rolling hills and through dense oak woodlands. The Panorama Trail lives up to its name, offering spectacular views of the city to the east and the vast countryside to the west. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. Two trailhead entrances: 411 Chileno Valley Road and 373 Windsor Drive. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Tolay Lake Regional Park: The 3,400-acre park southeast of downtown Petaluma offers 11 miles of hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding trails, as well as ample birdwatching opportunities — the park provides habitat for golden eagles, burrowing owls and other birds of prey. The West Ridge Trail leads through open grasslands to vista points overlooking the Petaluma marsh and San Pablo Bay. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 5869 Cannon Lane. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Shollenberger Park: Go birdwatching on a leisurely stroll around this 165-acre wetlands park. Hugging the Petaluma River, the park features a large pond encircled by a level, 2-mile trail that’s perfect for a daily run, bike ride, walking the dog or a casual walk with a friend observing the swans, swallows and red-winged blackbirds. Open sunrise to sunset; parking is free. 1400 Cader Lane. cityofpetaluma.org/shollenberger-park

Rohnert Park

Crane Creek Regional Park: This 128-acre park, full of sloping grasslands and wildflower meadows, is an ideal spot to hike, ride horses, have a picnic or play disc golf. Trails are under 2 miles long, making it a great option for kids and beginning hikers. Plus, visitors can see cattle graze seasonally around the park to reduce fire risk (for the cattle’s safety, keep dogs on a leash and do not pet the cows). Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $7. 5000 Pressley Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Windsor

Foothill Regional Park: Located in the Mayacamas foothills in east Windsor, this 211-acre park is an oak savanna scattered with several species of oaks, plus bay, madrone and buckeye trees. The easy, wheelchair-accessible Three Lakes Trail visits three ponds where visitors can fish for bass and bluegill, while the Alta Vista Trail offers a more challenging climb to the summit. Following the 2019 Kincade Fire, which burned or damaged 95% of the park, Sonoma County Regional Parks completed construction of several improvement projects, including trail restorations and new gathering areas. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 1351 Arata Lane. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Shiloh Ranch Regional Park: This rugged, 850-acre park in southeast Windsor includes a pond, canyons, rolling hills, oak woodlands, mixed evergreen forests and a shaded creek. Most trails offer sweeping views of the Santa Rosa Plain and are suitable for hiking, biking and horseback riding. For a hike that has a bit of everything, from panoramic vistas to secluded treks through dense greenery, follow the Big Leaf Trail to Ridge Trail and back via the Canyon or Creekside trails. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $8. 5750 Faught Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Healdsburg

Riverfront Regional Park: Located along the Russian River, Riverfront Regional Park offers less strenuous jaunts than the area’s higher-incline trails, but still has incredible views. With two lakes and a redwood grove, hikers can enjoy the 2-mile Lake Trail that loops around the park and end the day with a picnic under the redwoods. Fishing and non-motorized boating are permitted at the lakes, but swimming is prohibited. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $12 in summer and $8 the rest of the year. 7821 Eastside Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Alexander Valley Vineyards: The vineyard hikes at the Wetzel family estate is less of a hike and more of a leisurely stroll among the vineyards and winery grounds in Healdsburg. The tour ends with wine tasting straight from the barrel in an underground wine cave. This 21-and-over-only hike is $85 per person, $65 for wine club members, and requires a reservation 48 hours in advance. Vineyard hikes are available starting at 10:30 a.m. daily. Reserve on Tock. 8644 Highway 128, 707-433-7209, avvwine.com

Geyserville

Lake Sonoma Recreation Area: Owned and operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the area’s 2,700-acre lake is the main draw, inviting visitors to swim, fish, boat and picnic lakeside. Trails are fairly easy and incredibly scenic, such as the South Lake Trail that traces around the lake and is home to a variety of wildlife, including deer, quail and wild boar. The visitor center is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. 3333 Skaggs Springs Road. 707-431-4590, spn.usace.army.mil/Missions/Recreation/Lake-Sonoma

Cloverdale

Cloverdale River Park: A hidden gem of northern Sonoma County, this Cloverdale park runs along the Russian River and is ideal for casual walks, picnics and water activities. A paved, 1-mile trail runs through a riparian forest and features picnic areas, fishing access and a small-watercraft launch area. Open 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is $12 in summer and $8 the rest of the year. 31820 McCray Road. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

West county and Sonoma Coast

West County Regional Trail: This forested 5.5-mile, mostly paved route, linking Sebastopol, Forestville and Graton, is perfect for cyclists looking for a nice stretch of road to bike. The trail is also a prime spot for bird-watching and admiring the thick moss growing on the trees that line the path. Open from 7 a.m. to sunset; parking is free. 9251 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve: This sprawling 805-acre redwood grove is the kind of place that can reinvigorate the soul. Take the 1-1.7-mile Pioneer Nature Trail for a peaceful stroll among nature’s giants and to view the Colonel Armstrong Tree, the grove’s oldest tree, estimated to be over 1,400 years old. Open from 8 a.m. to one hour after official sunset. Parking fee is $10 per vehicle, $9 for seniors. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville. 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov

Grove of Old Trees: Stewarded by local nonprofit LandPaths, this small open space preserve is renowned for its glorious redwood grove surrounded by rolling ranchland. Take your time sauntering among these gentle giants — resting on just 33 acres, the grove’s trails are short and easy, and a good oppportunity to practice the art of forest bathing. Open from dawn to dusk daily. 17599 Fitzpatrick Lane, Occidental. landpaths.org/grove-of-old-trees

Sonoma Coast State Park: Encompassing a 17-mile stretch of coastline from Jenner to Bodega Bay, Sonoma Coast State Park offers visitors plenty of sandy coves and seaside trails to explore. To get the most out of the Pacific vistas, take the 4.6-mile, round-trip Kortum Trail that skirts along the coast from Blind Beach to Wright’s Beach. The Pomo Canyon Trail, 3.5 miles from the Pomo Canyon campground to Shell Beach, is another favorite for its lush redwood forests and wildflower meadows. Call 707-875-3483 for park hours. Parking fee is $10 per vehicle, $9 for seniors. parks.ca.gov

Multi-county

Robert Louis Stevenson State Park: Mount Saint Helena is the tallest climbable peak in the Bay Area at 4,342 feet. Part of the Mayacamas Mountains, it’s located within Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, at the intersection of Sonoma, Napa and Lake counties. The 5.3-mile trail to the summit (over 10 miles out and back) is a steep, steady climb, but not too strenuous for experienced hikers. Once at the top, the views are spectacular: 360-degree vistas extend across Napa Valley to Mount Tamalpais, to San Francisco and the twin peaks of Mount Diablo in the south, Mount Lassen and Snow Mountain in the north, the Vaca Mountains in the east and the coastal ranges and the ocean in the west. Open sunrise to sunset; parking is free. Mt. St. Helena Trailhead, 4625 Lake County Highway, Calistoga. parks.ca.gov

Michael Barnes, Jenna Fischer and Maci Martell contributed to this article. This article was originally published in January, 2020.

Chefs Bring Global Cuisine to New Wine and Food Pairing Series

June 2022

By Heather Irwin

Preeti Mistry curates a team of BIPOC women chefs at J Vineyards & Winery. (Courtesy J Vineyards)

At face value, J Vineyards’ summer wine and food pairing experience, “Shifting the Lens,” will showcase three chefs of color (Jenny Dorsey, Preeti Mistry and Shenarri Freeman), pairing their culinary creations and favorite flavor profiles with J Vineyards wines.

But Mistry isn’t a face-value kind of person. An outspoken activist for food justice and inclusion, Mistry used their platform as a Top Chef Season 6 contestant and as a guest on Michelle Obama’s “Waffles + Mochi” Netflix series to spotlight the need for representation of people of color in the food world (Mistry uses the pronouns they/them).

As a new Sonoma County resident and curator of “Shifting the Lens,” Mistry is expanding Wine Country’s narrow vision of wine and food pairing — cheese, charcuterie, European cuisine — to include global ingredients and underrepresented voices.

“We wanted to do something that not only showcased different cuisines with the wine but went beyond that to the deeper meaning behind the pairings,” Mistry said.

The winery says the event will build on its “legacy of growing, evolving and challenging people’s notions on pairing wine with food,” according to the online description of the chefs’ curated tasting menus.

“At J, we believe that learning about how a meal is made, the story behind its ingredients and how the chef’s experience shaped the dish goes beyond culinary knowledge. It broadens our scope and takes us to a place of discovery and connection,” the winery website says. J Vineyards & Winery is owned by E. & J. Gallo.

During Dorsey’s, Mistry’s and Freeman’s monthlong residencies at J Vineyards, each will prepare a five-course tasting menu that will be featured at the winery’s Bubble Room and host a VIP dinner and discussion.

“It’s so rare for chefs like us, BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and people of color) women, to have the platform and stage, cooking the food of our own culture,” Mistry said of the Indian, Chinese and soul food cuisines featured in the series. “People think these might not pair well with wine, but that’s absolutely not true.”

Mistry, who identifies as a queer, first-generation Indian woman, plans to include green garbanzo beans with stone fruit, sprouted mung puri and hibiscus pani along with burnt masala quail with saffron rice and a dessert of saffron cardamom yogurt pudding. Dorsey’s and Freeman’s menus are still in the works.

Dorsey is the founder of Studio ATAO, a nonprofit that advocates for equitable standards in the hospitality industry. Freeman champions plant-based Southern soul food inspired by her family in North Carolina.

All three chefs focus on farm-to-table cuisine, using fresh and local ingredients, but Mistry said the moniker isn’t unique to European cuisine.

“Right now, I’m in a crunch for sourcing (these meals) at local farms. I’m running around to find someone growing parilla and shiso. It’s about dispelling the myth that the only farm-to-table food is European. Where do you think the rest of us get food?” Mistry said.

J Vineyards & Winery's vine-covered Russian River Valley production facility with its 'Bubble Room' and other hospitality suites is part of the sale deal to E&J Gallo. (courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery) — J Vineyards & Winery’s vine-covered Russian River Valley production facility. (Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)

While there were more than 10 chefs on the winery’s shortlist for the residency, Mistry said it came down to a handful of people who really inspired them.

“This is part of a larger vision,” Mistry said. The goal is to create mentorships and showcase people who can bring even more impact and change to the community.

Dorsey’s tasting menu will be at the Bubble Room July 7-10 and July 14-17, with a VIP dinner on July 9. Mistry’s tasting menu will be available Aug. 18-21 and Aug. 25-28, with a VIP dinner Aug. 20. Freeman’s tasting menu will be available Sept. 29 through Oct. 2 and Oct. 6-9, with a VIP dinner on Oct. 1. More details at jwine.com.

A Day Trip on the Russian River, Inspired by Guerneville’s Michael Volpatt

June 2022

By Karen Kizer

outside of Big Bottom Market — Outside of Big Bottom Market in Guerneville. (Courtesy Big Bottom Market)

Michael Volpatt, owner of Big Bottom Market, is perhaps best known for his biscuits, which were one of Oprah’s “Favorite Things” a few years back. But Volpatt, a fixture in this tiny Russian River community, has his hands in the mix in many ways beyond making biscuits.

Volpatt co-owns the Equality Vines tasting room across the street from the market, heads up a local PR firm and volunteers at a nearby pig sanctuary. Not to mention that at the beginning of the pandemic, he became the host of a self-produced cooking show, making livestreams of his homemade meals: “I didn’t know what I was going to do. I hadn’t found my pod yet. So I said, ‘I’m going to do what makes me happiest,’ which is to make my mother’s marinara sauce.”

After finishing a day’s work, Volpatt heads to what he calls his gym, nearby Armstrong Woods, where he hikes the redwood trails and does strengthening exercises. But it’s his connection to the people of Guerneville that seems to fuel his boundless energy and interests.

For a Russian River day trip that would make Volpatt proud, check out these favorite stops below in Guerneville and west county.

Big Bottom Market

Volpatt’s market has terrific takeout, cookbooks and foodie gifts, and partners with winemakers to offer bottles that give back to local charities. 16228 Main St., Guerneville, 707-604-7295, bigbottommarket.com

River’s End Restaurant & Inn

Specializing in spectacular sunsets since the 1920s, this restaurant overlooks the spot where the Russian River slips into the ocean. Try hyper-local Dungeness crab ravioli with wild mushrooms. 11048 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com

Christopher Queen Galleries

In nearby Duncans Mills, this two-story gallery features rotating exhibits of contemporary artists on the first floor, and, on the second floor, California landscapes from the 1800s and early 1900s. 4 John Orr’s Gardens, Duncans Mills, 707-865-1318, christopherqueengalleries.com

West County Wines

Flambeaux Wines is run by a family from New Orleans that creates bottles to pair with Southern foods like gumbo and shrimp and grits. And Porter-Bass has been farming with biodynamic practices since the 1980s. Both wineries are open by appointment. Flambeaux Wine, 1333 Jack Pine Road, Healdsburg, 707-637-9019, flambeauxwine.com; Porter-Bass, 11750 Mays Canyon Road, Guerneville, 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com

Equality Vines

The Love Wins sparkling wine celebrates the landmark Supreme Court decision that legalized same-sex marriage. 16215 Main St., Guerneville, 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com

When Pigs Fly Ranch

Some very fortunate pigs are living well at this sanctuary on the Russian River. Wesley, an 800-pounder, will roll over for belly rubs. Visits by appointment. whenpigsflyranch.org

Elk Fence Distillery Opens in Santa Rosa

June 2022

By Sarah Doyle

Gail Coppinger, right, and Scott Woodson, owners of Elk Fence Distillery, make Fir Top Gin, The Briny Deep Whiskey and White Elk Vodka in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

When Scott Woodson approached his friend Gail Coppinger to gauge her interest in distilling, Coppinger needed some clarification.

“Distilled water? Perfume? I had no idea he was talking about whiskey,” recalled Coppinger, who was running an organic produce stand at the time.

The two had met years earlier while working as painting contractors. Coppinger, a house shingler by trade, had moved on from contract work when Woodson showed up at her produce stand to talk whiskey. After catching up, they discovered they both were yearning for a new adventure.

“I approached Gail with the idea of starting a distillery because I remembered how well we worked together,” said Woodson, who has been an avid home brewer since the 1990s. “I knew we would make a good team.”

Today, Coppinger and Woodson are the proud owners and distillers of Elk Fence Distillery, the first craft distillery in Santa Rosa. Located in an industrial building off Santa Rosa Avenue, the small-batch distillery produces an American single malt whiskey, a botanical gin and a barley-based vodka, all poured and sold in their recently opened tasting room.

(As for the name, it refers to the fence bordering a field where Woodson once grew barley. On the other side were elk, and he called the area “the elk fence.” The partners thought it a fitting name for their new venture.)

For Coppinger and Woodson, getting to this point was an exercise in patience and determination that brought a new crop of gray hairs. From ideation to first distillation, the process took about five years, which Coppinger compared to “going through a series of brick walls,” from complications with permits to the 2017 Tubbs Fire.

“You hit one brick wall, you figure out how to go through it and then you keep going,” she said. “Because at some point you’ve gone too far forward to go back.”

An old Steinway upright in the Elk Fence Distillery tasting room in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Breaking new ground

To start distilling, Coppinger and Woodson needed to apply for a distilled spirits permit. But before that, they needed to secure a lease on a distillery location.

Unfortunately, with no distilling experience, they found few property owners were willing to give them a chance — especially considering the flammability risk of spirits production. A year and a half later, they were grateful to obtain a location in Santa Rosa that would eventually become the town’s first distillery ever.

Then came the divorce.

The day before Coppinger and Woodson were scheduled to submit their distiller’s permit application, their attorneys called to discuss an urgent matter: tied-house laws.

In simple terms, federal and state tied-house laws prohibit distillers, brewers and winemakers from pressuring bars, restaurants and retailers to buy their alcohol. The laws came into effect after Prohibition, when alcohol beverage producers would often bribe saloons and retailers to sell their products in exchange for low-interest loans, free draft systems and other perks.

At the time, Woodson’s wife, Cat Cowles, worked for Hog Island Oyster Co., a popular oyster bar in Tomales Bay that had two liquor licenses. According to tied-house laws, that was a conflict of interest.

“If we wanted to be approved for our distiller’s permit, I would need to get a divorce!” Woodson said, laughing. “So that night, I broke the news to Cat. Fortunately, she agreed.”

“One of the things I love about Scotty is that he’s very even-tempered,” Coppinger said. “Nothing really rattles him. In that way, we even each other out. That’s one of the reasons our partnership is so strong and solid.”

By the time Coppinger and Woodson were ready to begin building their distillery, it was 2017, the year of the Tubbs Fire.

“When we told the fire department we wanted to build a distillery, they were like, ‘What?’” Coppinger said. “They had no idea how to handle us because there was no historical framework for building a distillery in Santa Rosa. There are numerous distilleries in Sonoma County, but each town has its own rules. So that made things very complicated.”

It would take three years for Coppinger and Woodson to build the distillery, but they forged ahead with determination throughout the process. To support U.S. manufacturing, they bought high-quality American-made equipment for their facility, including two copper Trident stills from Maine, a roller mill from South Dakota, a wort chiller from Arkansas and a boiler from the small town of Wyoming, Illinois.

Under the gaze of the mounted head of an elk purchased on eBay, co-owner Gail Coppinger checks a tank in the production room at Elk Fence Distillery in Santa Rosa Tuesday, May 24, 2022. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

For the tasting room, the pair cleverly transformed a tired office space adjacent to the distillery into a cozy bar beaming with character. Every object here has a story to tell, from the old-growth redwood bar dating to the 1800s, to the upright antique Steinway piano rescued from a basement, to the dark and dreamy wall art obtained at flea markets throughout the state.

Now, after years of delay, the Elk Fence tasting room is finally open for tastings, tours and select artisan cocktails.

The spirits

Elk Fence Distillery produces three core spirits, including a whiskey, a gin and a vodka.

Briny Deep ($140 a bottle), an American single malt whiskey, is made with local barley sourced from Admiral Malts in Alameda and Grizzly Malts in Rohnert Park. Aged for two years in new American white oak from Minnesota, it’s delightfully drinkable for such a young expression. “If you put good stuff in the barrel, it doesn’t take long to age,” Coppinger said.

White Elk ($35 a bottle) is a barley-based vodka that could stand on its own with just ice and a twist of lemon. Distilled only twice, the spirit retains a subtle sweetness with a hint of malt.

Fir Top ($50 a bottle) is a botanical gin made of juniper, coriander, tangerine and grapefruit from San Francisco Herb Co. It’s fresh, citrusy and destined for a gin and tonic with Fever-Tree tonic.

On certain days, Woodson whips up one or more of his inventive cocktails, like the popular Elksicle, with Fir Top gin, fresh tangerine juice, lemon and apricot liqueur.

The Elk Fence Distillery produces, from left, White Elk Vodka, The Briny Deep Whiskey and Fir Top Gin in the only distillery in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)

Tastings include a complimentary tour, with additional bottles available for purchase. The spirits are also available at Bottle Barn, Willibee’s and in cocktails at Perch and Plow.

Looking forward, Coppinger and Woodson want Elk Fence Distillery to be a gathering spot, where people can listen to music or learn more about the art of distilling. They also hope to offer classes in distilling someday.

“People know how to make beer and wine, but distilling is often under a veil of secrecy. We want to share our knowledge with others,” Woodson said. “Some people call themselves a master distiller, and I just shake my head. You might know a lot, but you’ll never know everything. That’s why we’re always learning and experimenting.”

Tastings from $10, waived with purchase. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays and by appointment. 464 Kenwood Court, Suite E, Santa Rosa; 415-497-4338, elkfencedistillery.com

You can reach staff writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com.