Latkes, Jelly Doughnuts and More for Hanukkah in Sonoma County

By Sofia Englund

Hanukkah, the eight-day Jewish Festival of Lights, begins at nightfall on Sunday, Nov. 28 this year. On each night, Jewish families gather to light another candle on the Hanukkah menorah while reciting a special blessing.

After the nightly candle lighting, it’s time for food and games — eating latkes with sour cream and applesauce, sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts) and other traditional Hanukkah foods and spinning the dreidel to collect some gelt (usually chocolate coins covered in gold foil).

Sonoma County offers several ways to celebrate Hanukkah this year, from restaurants preparing special dishes to live music and menorah lighting events.

Hanukkah events
Chanukah Celebration and Drone Gelt Drop, Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds

This is the first time we’ve heard of a drone gelt drop, and we’re intrigued. If you want to check it out, head to the Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds on the first night of Hanukkah.

This action-packed event, organized by the Chabad Jewish Center of Petaluma, also includes a 9-foot menorah, a fire juggling act, a “dancing dreidel” (plus the world’s largest dreidel), giant Hanukkah decorations, live DJ Hanukkah music, latkes, jelly doughnuts and chocolate gelt and face painting. 4:30-6 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 28, free with RSVP at jewishpetaluma.com. Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds, 75 Fairgrounds Drive, Petaluma, 707-559-8585.

“Light Up the Night” Chanukah Celebration, Montgomery Village

This event, organized by the Joseph Weingarten Chabad Jewish Center of Sonoma County, will feature a large ice menorah lighting ceremony, live music, latkes and other goodies. 4 – 6 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 28. 911 Village Court, Santa Rosa.

Chanukah Fest and Menorah Lighting, Oakville Grocery

Also organized by the Joseph Weingarten Chabad Jewish Center of Sonoma County, this event will have a large menorah lighting, latkes and dreidels. 5 p.m. Monday, Nov. 29. 124 W. Matheson St., Healdsburg.

Sufganiyot, or jelly doughnuts, are served at a Hanukkah celebration. (Shutterstock)

Hanukkah dinners and sweet treats

Hanukkah dinner (dining in and take-and-bake), La Bodega Kitchen

La Bodega Kitchen, owned by Meekk Shelef (who is from Haifa, Israel) and Bryan Cooper, will have challah, potato latkes and sufganiyot at the restaurant and for pickup from Sunday, Nov. 28 to Dec. 6 (pre-orders/reservations required).

The restaurant also will serve a special dinner during Hanukkah, indoors and outdoors (weather permitting), by reservation only (indoor diners need to show proof of COVID-19 vaccination). The entree will be Moroccan chicken with saffron, preserved lemon, Turkish apricots, green onions and basmati rice. Diners also can order meatloaf with Willie Bird turkey, shiitake mushroom au jus, caramelized onion, soffritto, wild rice and French lentil mujadara with peas and carrots; or a vegan, gluten-free stuffed cabbage entree with ratatouille, caramelized eggplant, Beyond Beef, basmati rice and pomegranate molasses.

In addition to the traditional sufganiyot, there will be torta di noci (gluten-free) and a honey date cake for dessert, as well as spiced rosewater apples with pistachio, cardamom and lime juice.

The Bodega Kitchen Hanukkah dinner can be ordered as takeout for reheating at home. Reserve or order ahead by calling 707-827-1832 or emailing info@sonomawineship.com. 2295 Gravenstein Highway S., Sebastopol, 707-827-1832, sonomawineshop.com

Hanukkah dinner (take-and-bake), Grossman’s Noshery and Bar

This New York-style deli and bar owned by Mark and Terri Stark is selling a take-and-bake Hanukkah dinner to order now and pick up after 11 a.m. from Sunday, Nov. 28, through Dec. 6. It includes Brisket Dinner ($85, for two) with sweet and sour braised brisket, challah, parsley potatoes, pomegranate molasses roasted carrots and sufganiyot. A la carte items can be added for an extra charge, including potato leek latkes with applesauce and sour cream, matzoh ball soup, chopped liver and onions, smoked and pickled fish board and knish. Sweets, including rugelach (a pastry filled with nuts, poppy seed paste, chocolate or jam), hamantaschen (shortbread-like cookies filled with jam), halvah (a dense, tahini-based candy) and chocolate babka are also available to order. Order online at grossmanssr.com. 308 Wilson St, Santa Rosa.

Hanukkah dinner (pickup), Penngrove Market

This friendly neighborhood grocery store is selling a Hanukkah dinner for four, to pick up after 4 p.m. on Dec. 3. The dinner, which will be hot and ready to eat, includes choice of wood-fire roasted whole chicken or a beef brisket and comes with organic potato and vegetable latkes, matzoh ball soup and an organic mixed green salad. The chicken dinner is $65; the beef brisket dinner is $85. The Hanukkah dinner tends to sell out fast, so reserve yours soon by calling 707-753-4974. 10070 Main St., Penngrove, 707-753-4974, penngrovemarket.com

Latkes (pickup), Zoftig Eatery

This Santa Rosa restaurant got its name from the word zaftig, which means juicy in traditional Yiddish, and at Zoftig Eatery means flavorful and generously portioned dishes. This Hanukkah, Zoftig owners and chefs Matt and Sonjia Spector will serve latkes, available for pickup. Order a half dozen ($16) or a dozen ($30) potato latkes with applesauce and sour cream online to pick up 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Wednesday, Nov. 24, or on Monday, Nov. 29, to Dec. 3. You also can order by calling 707-521-9554. Allow 24 hours for pickup. Zoftig is closed Nov. 25-28. 57 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9554, zoftigeatery.com

Wildberry Jam Bismark sufganiyot from Johnny Doughnuts in Santa Rosa. (Johnny Doughnuts)
Wildberry Jam Bismark sufganiyot from Johnny Doughnuts in Santa Rosa. (Courtesy of Johnny Doughnuts)
Jelly Doughnuts, Harvey’s Gourmet Donuts

The Cohen family have run this doughnut shop for 12 years. Husband and wife Harvey and Georgia take turns operating the vintage doughnut machine to make mini doughnuts, sold by the dozen in a cone. Daughters Maryn and Zorelle also work in the shop. For Hanukkah this year, they will have raspberry jam doughnuts (by the dozen) and Hanukkah doughnut decorating kits ($16). The kits include four larger-size doughnuts, one chocolate glaze and one sugar glaze, piping bag and three types of sprinkles. Pre-order the kits by emailing harveysdonuts@yahoo.com or via direct message on Facebook. Free delivery available within the town of Sonoma and Glen Ellen. 414 First St. E., Sonoma, 707-246-5928, harveysdonuts.com

Sufganiyot and a Dozen Doughnuts, Johnny Doughnuts

Johnny Doughnuts will have its Wildberry Jam Bismark sufganiyot available at its four locations, including Santa Rosa, until the end of December. Johnny Doughnuts also sells a Hanukkah Dozen package ($48), with 12 mini Wildberry Jam Bismark doughnuts (order it online until Dec. 4). Online orders must be placed at least two days before pickup. 1200 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 415-521-5650, johnnydoughnuts.com

Thanks to members of the Facebook group Save Sonoma County Restaurants for sharing their favorite places for Hanukkah treats. 

Potato latkes served with citrus-cured salmon, dill, capers, lemon, and creme fraiche prepared by chef Bruce Riezenman for the Chanukah holiday, in Santa Rosa, California, on Wednesday, December 2, 2020. (Alvin A.H. Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Potato latkes served with citrus-cured salmon, dill, capers, lemon, and creme fraiche prepared by chef Bruce Riezenman for Chanukah in Santa Rosa. (Alvin A.H. Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Make latkes like a pro

Bruce Riezenman, a longtime Sonoma County chef who co-owns Park Avenue Catering with Ari Weiswasser of the Glen Ellen Star, has spent a lifetime perfecting the delicious potato pancakes he used to eat as a child with his parents and grandparents during Hanukkah. He likes to top his latkes with slices of his Citrus-Cured Salmon, a dollop of crème fraîche, a sprinkle of herbs and a handful of briny capers. — by Diane Peterson for The Press Democrat

Potato Latkes

Makes 40 hors d’oeuvres-size servings

Ingredients

2 pounds large russet potatoes, peeled and kept cold in the fridge

1 medium onion, peeled, grated and quickly pulsed in a food processor

2 tablespoons chives, sliced thin

2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped

1 large egg

¼ cup matzoh meal

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Instructions

Combine the grated/pulsed onion and the egg in a mixing bowl.

Using the large side of a box grater, grate the potatoes into a strainer that is suspended over a bowl. Once the potatoes are grated, squeeze out as much of the excess potato liquid as you can into a separate bowl and then mix thoroughly with the onion and egg mixture.

Let the liquid from the potatoes settle for 5 minutes and then carefully pour off the water that has collected, being careful to save the potato starch that has settled on the bottom. Scrape the starch into the latke mix; add the matzo meal, chives and parsley along with some salt and pepper and mix thoroughly. Cover the mix with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator for 20 minutes to allow the matzoh meal to absorb some of the liquid.

Place a cast-iron skillet (or sauté pan) over medium heat with enough canola oil to generously coat/float on the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot but not smoking, stir the latke mix (to make sure the liquids are evenly distributed) and spoon a heaping tablespoon of the mix into the pan. Press down to flatten the mix and repeat until you have filled the pan with as many hors d’oeuvre-sized latkes as will fit. Cook over medium heat until the bottoms are nicely golden brown. Flip latkes over and cook the second side the same way (approximately 4 to 5 minutes per side).

When the latkes are done, remove to a paper towel to absorb any of the excess oil and sprinkle with a touch of salt. Place on a clean baking sheet to keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the rest of the latkes.

Serve with Citrus-Cured Salmon (recipe below), sour cream or crème fraîche, chopped parsley and chives, capers and lemon.

Citrus-Cured Salmon

Making your own cured salmon is much easier than most people think and well worth the effort.

To cure the salmon:

1½ pounds wild salmon fillet, skin off, pin bones removed, single piece

½ cup light brown sugar

3 ounces (in volume) kosher salt

2 tablespoons brandy

Zest of 1 lime, very fine

Zest of ½ orange, very fine

Zest of ½ lemon, very fine

Instructions

Mix all dry ingredients together with the brandy. Place a large piece of plastic wrap on the counter and put half the salt mixture in a layer about the same size as the salmon in the middle of the plastic wrap. Place the salmon skin side down on the salt mix. Top the salmon with the rest of the mix. Wrap tightly around the salmon, leaving one side slightly open for liquid to escape. Place the salmon in a baking dish and top it with a heavy pan or other flat-bottomed object that weighs at least a pound or two.

Place in the refrigerator overnight. Turn the plastic with the fish over the next morning and put the weight back on it. Do this again every 12 hours or so for a total of 24 to 48 hours depending upon how thick the filet is.

Once the salmon is cured and relatively firm, remove it from the plastic, rinse off the salt mix and pat dry. Re-wrap in clean plastic and hold until you are ready to use.

Bruce Riezenman’s top 10 secrets to making delicious latkes 

1 – Make sure to keep everything cold before making the mixture.

2 – Use a food processor to grate the onions, pulsing them into small pieces (stopping short of pureeing them).

3 – When you grate the russet potatoes, grate them into long strips.

4 – Add the chopped parsley and chives to the potato mixture at the very end, then mix until you see that they are well distributed. That lets you know that all the ingredients are integrated. Keep stirring the mixture as you make new latkes, to reintegrate the liquid into the mixture.

5 – Make the latke mixture at least 20 minutes early and refrigerate. That way the matzah meal can absorb the liquid from the onions and potatoes.

6 – Use a large tablespoon to scoop the latke mixture out, and do not press the mixture together. You want to make loose pancakes that will stay airy in the pan.

7 – As the frying continues, be aware that the latkes will brown up more quickly.

8 – Take the latkes out when they have a nice brown color on both the top and the bottom, then transfer them to a baking sheet and hold in a 350-degree oven for about 10 more minutes. That way, they will continue to cook through to the center while staying warm.

9 – If you are giving a party, you may want to fry up the latkes ahead of time, then hold at room temperature. When ready to serve, put them in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes or so to reheat.

10 – When removing latkes from the pan, place on paper towels first to absorb the excess oil.

Opening Date Announced for Little Saint in Healdsburg

By Heather Irwin
Exterior of the former Healdsburg SHED, now being transformed into Little Saint. (Courtesy of Little Saint)

The long wait for Little Saint, a new food, arts, music and community space at the former Healdsburg SHED, may soon be over.

The owners of the 10,000-square-foot multi-purpose building in downtown Healdsburg announced in a press release Wednesday that they anticipate opening Little Saint in February 2022. (It was previously slated to open this fall, but the pandemic and subsequent supply chain disruptions delayed the opening.)

Little Saint will include a plant-based cafe, restaurant and wine shop from Kyle and Katina Connaughton of three Michelin-starred Single Thread restaurant. Staff for the new cafe and restaurant was also announced today: Former SHED Chef de Cuisine Bryan Oliver is reprising his role in the kitchen; Rusty Rastello, whose team recently won the Wine Spectator Grand Award at Single Thread, will be Executive Wine Director; and Akeel Shah, Service Director at Single Thread, will be the General Manager.

Related: 9 New Sonoma County Restaurants We Can't Wait to Try

SHED, the “modern grange” envisioned and built by Doug Lipton and Cindy Daniel, closed in late 2018. The two-story building then remained unoccupied for nearly two years. Following numerous rumors of new ownership, the property was ultimately purchased by Healdsburg investors Jeff and Laurie Ubben in September 2020. Kyle and Katina Connaughton were tapped to oversee the meat-free menu and the wine program, using produce from Little Saint’s farm as well as their own 24-acre Single Thread farm in Dry Creek Valley for the restaurant’s seasonal dishes.

“We want to build upon Cindy Daniel and Doug Lipton’s vision of creating a community gathering space when they first opened Healdsburg SHED,” said Kyle Connaughton earlier this year. “We envision Little Saint as another way to express our culinary creativity in a more accessible manner and as another avenue to expand our agricultural footprint and biodiversity presence in Sonoma County,” he added.

Produce from the new Single Thread farm in Dry Creek Valley will be a focus of the restaurant at Little Saint. (John Troxell)
Produce from the new Single Thread farm in Dry Creek Valley will be a focus of the restaurant at Little Saint. (Photo: John Troxell)

Designer Ken Fulk of San Francisco nonprofit Saint Joseph’s Arts Foundation will bring the Little Saint interior to life and create programming with Director Jenny Hess. The expansive Healdsburg space will also be used as a gathering place for conversations with thought leaders, as well as for live music performances and events.

Other staff announcements for Little Saint include Kelly Buteyn, Assistant General Manager; Celeste Peralez, Executive Sous Chef; Matthew Seigel, Executive Bar Director; and Alexandria Sarovich, Wine Director.

Where to Taste Wine in Sonoma on Thanksgiving Day

By Linda Murphy

Like most Sonoma County winery owners, Ty Caton assumed no one would want to go wine tasting on Thanksgiving Day, a most hallowed of American holidays.

Thanksgiving, after all, is a day for families and friends to gather at home and watch the Macy’s parade and football on TV, toss the pigskin or kick a soccer ball in the backyard and gorge on a massive meal, with wine to wash down the turkey and all the trimmings.

Caton, the grapegrower and winemaker at his family’s Ty Caton Vineyards, kept his Kenwood tasting room closed on Thanksgiving Day until a few years ago, when his tasting room manager offered to keep the business open.

“He didn’t celebrate Thanksgiving,” Caton recalled, “and said he’d open and see if any customers stopped in. I visited the tasting room later that day and the place was packed.” Caton has welcomed Thanksgiving Day guests ever since.

Chris Sebastiani, whose parents, Sam and Vicki Sebastiani, founded Viansa winery and marketplace in Sonoma in 1990, said he already had 100 tasting reservations for Thanksgiving Day, with two weeks still to go until the holiday. Chris and his brother, Jon, left Viansa after Sam and Vicki sold it in 2005. The siblings are back, for what Chris Sebastiani describes as a “strategic partnership” with current owner Vintage Wine Estates.

“The tasting room and marketplace opened on Thanksgiving in 2015, and we’ve continued that tradition,” Chris said. “People know we’re open that day, and we see quite a few regulars — those who want to get out of the house and visitors (here for the holiday). It’s been a total banger for us. We’re kid-friendly, welcome picnicking (with foods purchased from the on-site deli); we have holiday coffee offers, seated tastings and tastings at the bar for walk-ins.”

There are many reasons for locals to visit a Sonoma County tasting room on Thanksgiving: For a breath of fresh air. An escape from helping to prepare the holiday meal, or from relatives who are loved but best enjoyed in small doses. It could be a boredom cure for those not interested in marching bands and NFL football, or an opportunity to pick up a bottle of wine for dinner, with maybe nibbles or a panini to relieve midday cravings.

Not everyone has plans for a family gathering on Turkey Day. Visiting a winery or two can inject some holiday spirit that would be missed by staying at home. The conviviality of seeing old friends and meeting new ones, sharing a bottle of wine or a tasting flight with others, even admiring the almost-dormant grapevines while cupping a mug of peppermint mocha latte, can be supremely satisfying on Nov. 25.

Only a handful of Sonoma tasting rooms are open on Thanksgiving Day, mostly as a nod to employees who want to spend that Thursday with their families. Here are four that have made wine tasting on Thanksgiving Day a tradition and close their doors early enough that staff — and visitors — still have time to enjoy their feast at home. Reservations are highly recommended.

For those needing a host gift or more wine for dinner, see the listing below of Sonoma markets open on the holiday that stock local wines not often found on chain-store shelves.

Viansa

Long known for its Tuscan-style tasting room and marketplace in Sonoma Carneros — and for being open on Thanksgiving Day — Viansa also affords impressive, 270-degree views of Sonoma Valley. The Summit Tasting ($30) is on the hilltop terrace, with broad views and four wines poured from the menu of chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and Italian varietals. The Fireside Tasting ($75) is warm and private and includes reserve-tier wines served with cheeses and charcuterie. Walk-ins are welcome at the bar on a space-available basis, with physical distancing top of mind. The marketplace deli sells sandwiches, salads, cheeses and salumi; also stop by the coffee bar for Lavazza espressos and drinks with holiday touches. Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day.

25200 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800-995-4740, viansa.com

Ty Caton Vineyards

Ty Caton’s 40-acre vineyard is in the Moon Mountain District of the Mayacamas range, and his unpretentious tasting room is on the valley floor below, in Kenwood. Caton specializes in producing bold, mountain-grown red wines, and the Classic Tasting Experience ($20) is a great introduction. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petite sirah and syrah are among the bottlings, and there’s the flagship Tytanium wine, a blend of six red grapes grown in the estate vineyard. The Caton Cabernet Collection Experience ($30) showcases several block-specific cabernet sauvignons. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day.

8910 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-938-3224, tycaton.com

Outdoor wine tasting at
Outdoor wine tasting at B.R. Cohn Winery & Olive Oil Co. in Glen Ellen. (Courtesy of B.R. Cohn Winery & Olive Oil Co.)

B.R. Cohn Winery & Olive Oil Co.

Bruce Cohn, manager of the Doobie Brothers rock band and others, founded this Glen Ellen winery in 1984. The tasting room is adorned with photographs of the band and gold and platinum records. In addition to wine, Cohn had a passion for the olive trees planted on the Olive Hill Estate and the oils made from their fruit. Vintage Wine Estates now owns the property and brand and has maintained the ranch-house-style tasting room and marketplace for B.R. Cohn’s chardonnays, cabernet sauvignons and other Bordeaux-style varietals, as well as for a vast selection of olive oils and vinegars. Tasting flights are $25; wines by the glass start at $10. Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day.

15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, 707-938-4064, brcohn.com

Sonoma Coast Vineyards

A morning drive to Bodega Bay is a holiday must for many, for a blast of cool, salty ocean air; a last glimpse of fall foliage before winter sets in; and, when the conditions are right, purchases of fresh Dungeness crab for Thanksgiving dinner. Crab or not, Bodega Bay is a great half-day trip to make before holiday festivities begin back home, and a stop at Sonoma Coast Vineyards is in order. Bundle up to sit on the outdoor patio (or inside), take in the bay views and enjoy tasting flights of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, red blends and bubbles ($25). Wines by the glass start at $10. Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day.

555 Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707-921-2860, sonomacoastvineyards.com

Need a bottle of wine on Thanksgiving Day? These local grocers are open, with limited hours, on the holiday and are great alternatives to shopping for wine at large chain stores. Hours are specific to Thanksgiving Day.

Big John’s Market, 1345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-7151, bigjohnsmarket.com. Open 7 a.m. to noon.

Glen Ellen Village Market, 13751 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-996-6728, glenellenvillagemarket.org. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Molsberry Market, 522 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa, 707-546-5041, molsberrymarket.com. Open 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Oliver’s Market, oliversmarket.com. Open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.

9230 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 707-687-2050

546 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati, 707-795-9501

560 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa, 707-537-7123

461 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 707-284-3530

Petaluma Market, 210 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-762-5464, petalumamarket.com. Open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Get Pizza with a Greek Twist at New Santa Rosa Restaurant

By Heather Irwin
Kratos pizza at Zimi on Mission. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)

Chef Dino Moniodis has spent every summer of his life on the quiet Greek island of Chios, an idyllic Aegen outcropping steeped in ancient history and populated with just over 50,000 inhabitants.

When he describes it, you can almost see the azure waters and white sand beaches where children romp freely — unless they’re sent to catch fresh seafood for the family taverna.

Alongside dozens of aunts, uncles and cousins, Moniodis grew up working in family tavernas, learning to tenderize octopus and clean fish on the beach. Bringing that sense of family and food together, the 29-year-old chef recently opened his third food business, Zimi on Mission, in Santa Rosa.

Passionate about bringing the Old World flavors of Greece to Sonoma County, the young entrepreneur has grown a small restaurant empire from a tiny food trailer (Dino’s Greek Food) into two brick-and-mortar restaurants — wood-fired pizza ovens at The Block in Petaluma and now, Zimi on Mission. He’s developing another restaurant, Taverna Lithi, at the forthcoming Livery food hall in Sebastopol.

Dino Moniodis of Zimi on Mission with a completed pizza. Heather Irwin, Press Democrat
Dino Moniodis of Zimi on Mission with a completed pizza. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

“It’s been a combination of fate and good timing,” Moniodis said. A graduate of Santa Rosa Junior College’s culinary program, Moniodis helped to open Petaluma’s now-shuttered Slamburger and was a former cook at Willi’s Wine Bar. He honed his pizza-making skills at Rosso in Santa Rosa but didn’t consider striking out on his own until his father’s death in 2018.

“When my dad was sick, I was his caregiver. We talked about opening a Greek restaurant, and after he passed, I just didn’t have anything to lose. I saw what Sonoma County needed,” he said. So, in 2019, he launched the yellow gyro and souvlaki mobile kitchen that quickly became a destination wherever it showed up.

Moniodis has temporarily parked the trailer to focus on expanding his menus in Petaluma and Santa Rosa, but it’s his newest venture, Zimi on Mission, that truly has us excited.

It’s part Greek deli, part pizzeria and part nona’s kitchen. Moniodis and his partner, Sarah Kenney, aren’t forcing a definition of their Bennett Valley venture.

Zimi, meaning dough, shows that pizzas are certainly their bread and butter, with Greek-inspired toppings on their twice-cooked crusts. But the scratch-made dolmas, flaky spinach spanikopita and pastichio, a sort of Greek lasagna, along with daily specials, really hit the mark.

Fluent in Greek, Farsi (his mother is Iranian) and Spanish, Moniodis gracefully brings together these disparate cultures in his kitchen, with dishes like a Mexican-inspired corn pizza with cotija cheese, rice and beef stuffed grape leaves inspired by his mother and mezze plates with imported feta, pickled onions, pita and olives.

“In Greece, the culture is food. We sit around all day and have mezze,” he said of the all-day snacking that’s traditional on the Greek islands.

Seeing a lack of authentic Greek food in Sonoma County, he’s made it a one-man mission to share the flavors of his culture, one gyro at a time.

Best Bets

Pizzas have a red (tomato), white (creamy garlic) or green base (pesto). Moniodis piles on unexpected toppings that somehow work exactly right.

Phoenix, $21, $29: Smoked mozzarella, chorizo, pepperoncinis, pepperoni and dried oregano with lime and cilantro make for smoky, earthy and spicy flavors cooled by creamy drizzles of creme fraiche.

Elote, $18, $26: This seasonal pizza is what made us fall in love with Moniodis’ mix of unlikely toppings on a crisp twice-cooked crust. A chipotle adobo base is topped with nutty fontina cheese, fire-roasted corn, cotija cheese, lime, cilantro and a dash of Cholula hot sauce.

Kratos, $20, $28: Named for the god of war, this pizza is no shrinking violet. Spicy Italian sausage takes center stage, with fire-blistered cherry tomatoes and balsamic vinegar adding a high-hat hit of acid. Figs and olives cool everything and provide a hint of sweetness.

Gyro, $15: This is the gyro you’ve been looking for. A warm pita stretches around fresh cucumber and tomatoes with tart feta cheese, tzatziki sauce and shaved meat (a lamb and beef mix), with an oven-roasted potato wedge substituting for fries.

Trahili Panini: House-smoked chicken is slathered with spicy Thai peanut sauce, cilantro and pickled shiitake mushrooms.

Spanakopita, $8.50: Endlessly flaky layers of phyllo are studded with spinach and cheese in this Greek classic.

Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday – Thursday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Monday. 500 Mission Blvd., Santa Rosa. eatzimionmission.com

9 New Sonoma County Restaurants We Can’t Wait to Try

By Heather Irwin
Delicata Rings in beer batter with house ranch dip from Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

It’s never easy to know when a new restaurant will finally, finally open in Sonoma County. Even under the best circumstances, it often comes down to luck and timing. And now, with the ongoing headaches of permit holdups, supply chain woes and labor shortages, many restaurant opening plans are on ice, at least until spring 2022.

But fear not — a slew of new restaurants are in development and (hopefully) will open late this year or in early spring. We’ll keep you up to speed, but here are a few we’re watching closely. Click through the above gallery for details.

New Interior Design Store Opens in Sebastopol

By Karen Kizer
Storia Home in Sebastopol. (Courtesy of Storia Home)

Design lovers have a fresh, new Sonoma County store to visit for home goods and gifts. Storia Home, owned by San Francisco designer Gina Gutierrez, opened in Sebastopol in October. The store offers design items that tell a story, says Gutierrez, who carefully selects items for her store that “(share) the narrative of women-owned companies, people of color (and) the LGBTQ+ community.”

Gutierrez sources textiles, housewares, furniture pieces and gifts for her store from a variety of designers and artisans, including Oakland-based ceramist Sara Kersten, Latina-owned company Nopelara (also in Oakland), which specializes in botanicals for bath and body made from the nopal cactus, and QBIPOC-owned Aesthete Tea in Portland (QBIPOC stands for Queer Black, Indigenous, People of Color).

Storia Home owner Gina Gutierrez and twin brother / Storia Home design director Dan Gutierrez (middle) with the Storia Home team. (Storia Home)

“I love trends, but I also want to make rooms that withstand time,” says Gutierrez, who operates her residential interior design studio, Gina Rachelle Design, out of her Sebastopol store. She often advises her clients to “pull in trends” that can be swapped out easily — for example a patterned pillow or a throw — while choosing designs that will stand the test of time for the more permanent features of their homes. She hopes that Storia Home will become a go-to place for people looking to add some contemporary style to their homes.

Gutierrez brings her own story to Storia Home. She started her career in the fitness world, where she worked in fitness management following a master’s degree in kinesiology. She had an eye for and interest in design and took online classes and workshops to hone her skills. Finally, she made the leap into the interior design world.

“There were times I had to be vulnerable and ask questions,” says Gutierrez about those early days  working with architects and contractors. Since then, she has built a reputation designing Victorian homes and other San Francisco properties, which she likes to infuse with a modern but comfortable style that encourages spending time together with family and friends.

Spending time together is something that has always been important in Gutierrez’s Italian-Mexican family and it’s a theme that continues in her store. Her husband helped build the store and her twin brother, Dan Gutierrez, helps her run it. Dan recently relocated to Sonoma County from New York, where he starred in the Broadway production of Chicago before the pandemic shutdown. After successful years in America’s theater hub, he was ready for a transition to a more tranquil pace.

Gutierrez looks forward to continuing to design homes that are cozy, welcoming and invite people to come together.

“I hope all my spaces have that element to it,” she says. And that includes her own store. “I want the space to feel very inviting (and) open to everyone.”

Storia Home, 961 Gravenstein Hwy S Suite 130, Sebastopol, 415-501-0024, storiahome.com

Small but Spectacular Sonoma Condo Asks $689,000

By Karen Kizer

Asmall home can make a sizable statement. Case in point is a one-bedroom condominium currently for sale in the Sonoma Lofts building, located just off the Sonoma Plaza.

The modern loft-style condo, complete with uncovered ventilation ducts, is listed for $689,000 and comes with two-story-high ceilings and a wall of windows, which provide a sense of spaciousness beyond the property’s 981-square-foot size. It also comes with the furniture it’s been decorated with.

“The great thing about a loft with super-high ceilings (is that) you don’t feel like you’re in a small space,” says realtor Christopher Anderson.

The Sonoma Lofts building was constructed in 2001. The layout and color palette of the for-sale unit make it feel contemporary and airy. White walls allow structural elements, like the staircase and balcony, to blend with the rest of the home and create a sense of openness. White pieces of furniture have been built into the walls, including a sideboard with lighted shelves in the dining room and a cabinet in the loft sleeping area. The large living room wall has been decorated with abstract wire wall hangings which draw the gaze upward, another way to create a sense of space.

The white walls and white furniture are offset by accent greens throughout the home, from two large botanical paintings in emerald and forest green to printed chartreuse throw pillows to a matching pistachio green Kitchen Aid stand mixer and tea kettle. Wood furniture in different hues also contrast with the white walls, including a dining table made of bulky slabs of blonde wood, tree-like dining room floor lamps and stained wood kitchen cabinets.

The property at 728 1st Street W. in Sonoma is listed for $689,000 by Christoper Anderson of Redfin Realty. For more information, contact c.anderson@redfin.com, 707-815-.6596, bit.ly/3ouY1Fl

A Peek Inside the Renovated Sea Ranch Lodge

By Matt Villano
In October of 2021, the 1960s-era main building, the centerpiece of Sea Ranch community life, reopened with new public spaces open to all, including a redesigned restaurant, a new café, and expansions to the bar, lounge, and general store. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

Out on the northern Sonoma Coast, where the churning Pacific meets the rocky shore, life is about perspective. Expanse invites reflection. Fog softens glare. Even the curves of Highway 1 inspire focus.

Against this backdrop, with the right attitude and a winning amount of creativity, anyone and anything can undergo reinvention and become new again. This is the spirit from which springs a revitalized Sea Ranch Lodge. In October, the 1960s-era main building, the centerpiece of Sea Ranch community life, reopened with new public spaces open to all, including a redesigned restaurant, a new café, and expansions to the bar, lounge, and general store—all places where homeowners, weekenders, locals, and day-trippers interact daily.

“This is a one-of-a-kind spot, and it deserves a one-of-a-kind lodge,” says Kristina Jetton, the lodge’s general manager.

Ocean view through a fence at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
Dramatic views of the Pacific framed through a gap in an exterior fence. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
Rebrand of The Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch, CA Oct 6th and 7th 2020
Rocky cliffs stretch for miles. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

A California classic

The Sea Ranch certainly has a rich history. The 2,200-home planned community was built in 1965 and conceived as a second-home destination unlike any other. Homes here are required to adhere to strict design guidelines and to live lightly on the wider landscape, which is marked by dramatic cliffs, wide meadows dotted with coastal scrub, and cypress hedgerows for privacy and protection from the wind. A handful of Sea Ranch homes still boast original sod roofs installed in the 1960s.

For decades, The Sea Ranch was a lovable blend of quirk and luxury with a mix of full-time residents and weekend owners. Things started changing gradually last decade; as real estate prices soared in the city, growing numbers of part-time Sea Ranchers came to the coast to live full-time. And the rise of vacation rentals brought a new type of traffic to the North Coast—visitors that long-time locals weren’t necessarily keen on welcoming.

The pandemic changed much about life in the Sea Ranch community. With people forced to quarantine, many with second homes in The Sea Ranch chose to do move north full-time. Some early founders of the community seized the opportunity and sold their homes to new owners. Others were able to obtain permits to build new homes.

Architect Alan Cohen fell into the latter category. He and his wife Manok expect to move into their new coastal home next spring. “To see how that community has changed over the last few years, it’s pretty remarkable,” said Cohen, whose primary residence is in Healdsburg. “I’m glad we’ll have the chance to establish lives there as all of these changes are happening. There’s a real growing sense of community.”

The lodge’s newly expanded restaurant and cafe, reimagined by architectural design firm Mithun and interior designer Charles de Lisle, make the most of sweeping coastal vistas. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

Collaboration and care

A collection of designers participated in the reimagining of the lodge’s public spaces, including architectural design firm Mithun, landscape architects Terremoto, interior designer firm The Office of Charles de Lisle, and contractor David Hillmer. Inside, principals from Mithun took the old floor plan that comprised different levels and “nooks and crannies,” and “evened everything out” to create a cohesive flow, says Jetton.

What used to be a hallway and storage room is now the chef’s table and an alcove with an inviting window bench. The solarium, which used to be walled off from the rest of the building, is now open and connected to the lounge, which boasts a new fireplace. The new café, with counter seating for quick meals, now exists where the front desk was. The expanded general store sells snacks, gifts from local makers, and books on the history of The Sea Ranch and the Sonoma Coast. And out front, there’s new outdoor space protected from the elements by a wide overhang.

Exterior of The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

But without question, The Dining Room, where every table has a view of the sea, is the center of the new lodge. Executive Chef Eric Piacentine, formerly of Big Sur Bakery, has put together a menu of elevated contemporary comfort food such as Sonoma duck with wild rice, beets, and huckleberries. Daily specials will feature freshly-caught fish, mushrooms, seaweeds, and produce foraged or grown nearby. “I am constantly inspired by this seemingly untouched part of California where land and sea become one,” says Piacentine. “I’m excited to work with local farmers, fisherman and foragers and create a fresh new menu that naturally complements the majestic landscape.”

Executive chef Eric Piacentine has revamped the bar menu at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
Executive chef Eric Piacentine has revamped the bar menu at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
Seared duck breast with local berries from executive chef Eric Piacentine at The Dining Room restaurant at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

Now that renovations to the public spaces are finished, crews will turn their attention to improvements to the lodge’s guest rooms—those new guests rooms will debut in 2023 as part of the next phase of construction. (In the meantime, Sea Ranch visitors can stay overnight in one of the community’s many vacation rentals.) Plans for events and celebrations in the lodge’s new spaces are starting to take shape, including regular jazz piano concerts in the lounge.

General manager Kristina Jetton says she’s looking forward to seeing The Sea Ranch Lodge hopping again. “What we hope that will happen is that it will go back to being what it was originally intended to be: a waystation for travelers, and a local hub for the community and for our neighbors to the north and south,” she says. “The way we see it, there’s no better place on the coast to relax.”

A walkway at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
The refresh brings a bold, modern simplicity to public spaces. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
The general store at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

When you go

The Sea Ranch Lodge: The renovated restaurant, café, lounge, store, and post office are now open to the public. The restaurant and bar/lounge are open Thursday-Monday in the evenings only; the café is open daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. 60 Sea Walk Drive, Sea Ranch. thesearanchlodge.com

Stewarts Point Store: On the coast about 15 minutes south of Sea Ranch, this lively general store and community hub is also the home of Twofish Baking, which got its start at The Sea Ranch. Go early on Sundays for mouthwatering sticky buns from co-owner Margaret Smith. 32000 Highway 1, Stewarts Point. 707785-2011, twofishbaking.com

Salt Point State Marine Conservation Area: Low tides at this popular state beach reveal tiny pools in the rocky coastline teeming with life. Located 30 minutes south of The Sea Ranch, the park also has a campground and nearly two dozen miles of hiking trails. parks.ca.gov

Point Arena Lighthouse: About 40 minutes north, this beacon celebrated its 151st birthday in 2021. The light station and fog-signal building museum are open, but the tours that climb into the tower itself are currently on pause. There are also seven cottages available as vacation rentals. 44500 Lighthouse Rd., Point Arena. 707-882-2809, pointarenalighthouse.com

Where to Eat Out on Thanksgiving in Sonoma County

By Mya Constantino

Whether you’re skipping the stress of cooking for 20 people or want to enjoy a Thanksgiving meal at a local restaurant this holiday, there are options across Sonoma County. Here are 25 restaurants and grocers offering Thanksgiving meals, for dining in, picking up or delivery.

Santa Rosa

Flamingo Resort: Dine in the Aviary Room on Thanksgiving Day. The menu includes roasted turkey with gravy, honey mustard-glazed ham, herb-roasted salmon with ponzu (a Japanese citrus sauce) and tasty sides such as roasted garlic mashed potatoes or roasted seasonal vegetables with Thai basil butter sauce. For dessert, pumpkin or pecan pie. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. $75 for adults, $35 for children (6-18 years old). Free for children 5 and under. 2777 Fourth St. Reserve a table at flamingoresort.com or call 707-545-8530.

Stark’s Steak and Seafood: Takeout and dining in available on Thanksgiving Day. The menu includes butter-roasted turkey, chorizo sausage and blue cheese stuffing, traditional giblet gravy and pomegranate cranberry sauce. Thanksgiving menu served from 2-7 p.m. $38 per person.

The order-ahead menu includes butter-roasted turkey with optional sides of blue cheese-stuffed chorizo, stuffing, creme fraiche and chive whipped potatoes and house-baked bread with garlic dill butter. For dessert, there’s pumpkin cream cheese pie and spiced apple cake. Dinner for two is $120. Pre-ordering ends Nov. 18 or until sold out. 521 Adams St. Pre-order at starkrestaurants.com or call 707-546-5100.

John Ash & Co: Dine in. This Thanksgiving Day three-course meal includes roasted pumpkin and lobster risotto, pancetta-wrapped pork tenderloin, Dungeness crab salad, and roasted butternut squash soup, classic steak tartare and endive salad. For dessert: spiced pumpkin tart or maple spiced cheesecake. $80 for adults, $40 for kids 12 and younger. 4350 Barnes Road. Reserve a table at vintnersresort.com or call 800-421-2584.

Healdsburg

Dry Creek Kitchen: Three-course prix-fixe dine-in menu of traditional holiday dishes on Thanksgiving Day, including salad, turkey, sweet potatoes, orange-cranberry relish and roast turkey gravy. Desserts include a tasting of traditional seasonal pies — pumpkin, pecan and lemon meringue. For an additional $16 per side, add side dishes including Blue Lake bean casserole, Tomales Bay oyster stuffing and pomme puree. 2 – 9 p.m. with the last seating at 7 p.m. $110 for adults, $55 for children under 12. Reserve a table at drycreekkitchen.com. 317 Healdsburg Ave.

Kenwood

Tips Roadside: For pick-up, a Thanksgiving dinner for two to four people. The dinner includes smoked turkey or prime rib, mashed Yukon potatoes, turkey gravy, cornbread stuffing, orange-cranberry compote, Tony’s kale and sweet potatoes, brioche rolls and apple turnovers. Pre-order online at tipsroadside.com or call 707-509-0078. Order by Wednesday, Nov. 17. 8445 Sonoma Highway.

Salt and Stone: A dine-in three-course Thanksgiving Day meal with five to six options for each course. Price, from $43 to $60, depends on entree choice. The menu includes Diestel Ranch turkey, duck confit with white bean ragout, roasted pumpkin and apple soup and sourdough stuffing. Make a reservation at saltstonekenwood.com or call 707-833-6326. 9900 Sonoma Highway.

Rohnert Park

Sally Tomatoes: For takeout, the menu includes freshly roasted light and dark turkey meat with roasted shallot and sherry gravy, portobello mushroom stuffing, apple cider-glazed sweet potatoes and cranberries, classic Blue Lake bean casserole, homemade cranberry chutney and pumpkin cheesecake. Pick up your order on Nov. 24, from 11 a.m. – 9 p.m., or Nov. 25, from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. $20 per person, four people minimum. Call 707-665-9472 to order. 1100 Valley House Drive. sallytomatoes.com

Sebastopol

Pascaline: A la carte menu includes everything but the turkey: beet and arugula salad, butternut squash soup, Parker House rolls, buttermilk biscuits, potato gratin and chestnut stuffing, salmon en croute and chicken. Each item serves six people. Order at 707-823-3122 by Sunday, Nov. 21. 4552 Gravenstein Highway N. pascalinepatisserieandcafe.com

West County & Coast

Dinucci’s: Dine in or takeout. Come for live music and a Thanksgiving meal. Full menu includes antipasti plate, minestrone soup, green salad, pasta with bolognese sauce, roasted turkey with stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, candied yams and cranberry sauce. Open noon to 7 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day. Call 707-876-3260 to order or make a reservation at dinuccisrestaurant.com. 14485 Valley Ford Road, Valley Ford.

Glen Ellen and Sonoma

Delicious Dish: Thanksgiving dinner for four people. The menu options include herb-roasted turkey breast with green onion cream gravy, whipped potatoes, apple and sage stuffing and bourbon-roasted-pecan sweet potatoes. Additional options include green bean casserole, dinner rolls, a pumpkin cheesecake and pecan pie. $140. For more details, visit sodeliciousdishsf.com. Call 707-721-423 to order. 18709 Arnold Drive. Order by Friday, Nov. 19.

Depot Hotel: Come for indoor, garden dining or take out. The Thanksgiving Day dinner includes turkey roulade, harvest salad, pork osso bucco, eggplant lasagna, tiramisu and pumpkin pie. 241 First St. W. Make a reservation at depotsonoma.com or call 707-938-2980.

El Dorado Kitchen: Dine in Thanksgiving dinner is served a la carte this year. The dinner menu options include turkey, roasted pork chop, roasted squash, pumpkin apple curry soup and cornbread. No takeout. Dinner is from noon to 6 p.m. Walk-ins are welcome for dinner. $15-120. Breakfast is available 8-10 a.m. on Thanksgiving Day. 405 First St. W., Sonoma. Reserve at eldoradosonoma.com

The Fig Café: Dine in. Offering a three-course prix-fixe menu from 1 to 6 p.m. Starters include their signature fig and arugula salad, crispy Brussels sprouts Caesar salad and pumpkin soup. Main course options are roasted turkey breast, pot roast, pan-seared flounder and cauliflower risotto. Dessert options are profiteroles or almond-pear tart. $60 per person; add $15 with wine pairing. $45 per child 10 and under. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. Make a reservation by calling 707-933-3000. For more information, visit thefigcafe.com.

girl & the fig: Serving a four-course Thanksgiving Day meal featuring roast turkey breast, smoked short ribs, wild mushroom risotto and sauteed flounder. Three dessert options: chocolate pecan tart, pumpkin cheesecake and caramel apple sundae. $72 per person; add $18 with wine pairing. $60 per child 10 and under. Noon to 8 p.m. 110 W. Spain St. Make a reservation at thegirlandthefig.com or call 707-938-3634.

Glen Ellen Star: Takeout. The menu features turkey and gravy, buttermilk mashed potatoes, salad, traditional sourdough-mushroom stuffing, maple glazed cranberry-orange sauce, caramelized Brussels sprouts and brown sugar-bacon marmalade, pumpkin pie and milk and honey ice cream. Pick up your order on Thanksgiving Day from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. $60 per person. Serves eight. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. Order ahead at glenellenstar.com or call 707-343-1384 for more information.

Layla Restaurant, MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa: Dine in. This three-course Thanksgiving Day dinner features roasted turkey breast and leg, salmon, butternut squash ravioli and braised boneless short rib. Dessert options include a classic pumpkin pie, apple galette or spiced chocolate pots de creme. Offered noon to 8 p.m. $85 per person, $35 for children. Add $45 for wine pairings. Make a reservation at macarthurplace.com or call 707-938-2929. 29 E. MacArthur St.

Suncraft Fine Foods: Delivery. Thanksgiving dinner items can be delivered to you the day before Thanksgiving. The menu includes traditional turkey and sides, stuffed acorn squash, stuffed Cornish game hens, pumpkin cheesecake and cranberry-orange cake. Can deliver in Oakmont, Kenwood, Glen Ellen, Sonoma Valley and Petaluma. For more details, visit suncraftfinefoods.com or call 707-343-6016.

Sweet Treats from Les Pascals Patisserie: For pick up. A Thanksgiving menu is available until Monday, Nov. 22, including pumpkin macaroons, pumpkin galette and pumpkin brioche. Closed on Thanksgiving Day. 13798 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. Visit lespascalspatisserie.com for more information or call 707-934-8378.

Wit & Wisdom: Dine-in and takeout. Offering a Thanksgiving menu 1 – 7 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day, with turkey breast, roasted king salmon, lobster pot pie and green bean casserole. Dessert options are a pumpkin sundae, Basque-style cheesecake and a chocolate bar with peanut crumble. $95 per person.

Wit & Wisdom is also offering a “take-and-bake” Thanksgiving dinner for $248 that serves up to six people. It includes a citrus-brined, ready-to-roast whole turkey with classic sides, including a sweet potato soup with pepitas and fall-spiced crema, whipped potatoes, a green bean casserole with organic mushrooms, a variety of sauces and pumpkin pie for dessert. Make a reservation or pre-order the take-and-bake turkey dinner at witandwisdomsonoma.com or by calling 707-931-3405. 1325 Broadway.

Order ahead

Oliver’s Market: In store pick-up. A la carte protein and a full meal option for six to eight people for $139.99. The menu includes Diestel turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, vegetables, cranberry sauce and dinner rolls. Order at oliversmarket.com.

Raley’s: In store pick-up. Raley’s offers several holiday dinners including a Butterball turkey dinner with classic mashed potatoes, green beans, turkey gravy and cranberry sauce. Serves two to four. $59.99. Order at raleys.com.

Whole Foods: Several Thanksgiving dinner options and an a la carte menu. One meal option includes a whole roast turkey, green beans with roasted shallots, creamy mashed potatoes, herb stuffing, turkey gravy and cranberry-orange sauce. The Thanksgiving meals feed four to 12 people, for $139 – $299. Order by Tuesday, Nov. 23. wholefoodsmarket.com

Need to bring dessert?

Zoftig Eatery: Takeout. The holiday menu includes a French apple pie, pumpkin pie, coconut cream pie and gluten-free chocolate cream pie. Order online at zoftigeatery.com or call 707-521-9554. Pick up 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Nov. 22-24. Closed on Thanksgiving Day. 57 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa.