Two matte black steel structures with low-sloop roofs and abundant windows for taking in the surrounding vineyard views make up a 1,600-square-foot, one-bedroom, one-bathroom Healdsburg residence with a guest studio currently listed for $3,950,000.
The industrial home on 150 Bailhache Ave. has been decorated with fine art pieces selected by San Francisco-based Dutch designer Martin Kobus. A modern floor-to-ceiling white marble relief with geometric shapes, for example, makes a strong statement in the living room, while a red pen shell bar on an adjacent wall contrasts with the black-and-white color scheme of the room.
The kitchen island is made from black marble with an unusual snakeskin pattern; the island itself is formed in an equally unusual wave shape. Laminate black cabinets add to the dramatic look, while lighted shelving brightens the room.
The main bedroom boasts a textured wall with a relief of thick leaves formed from plaster. Layers of textured white materials, like floor-to-ceiling alpaca drapes, keep this room light and airy.
The powder room has an artistic resin surface in an agate pattern by Los Angeles designer Alex Turco. The main bathroom features honed Pietra d’Avola tiles with geometric, textural grooves.
Hestan appliances in the kitchen, a retractable TV that emerges from the sofa, a programmable steam shower and more technological features add another modern touch to the artistic industrial home.
Outdoors, motorized pergolas cover the home’s patios and allow for lounging independent of weather. An Endless Pool, which provides resistance for lap swimming in place, is both a spot to exercise and a bright blue water feature in the yard.
An outdoor kitchen and two-sided fireplace adds to the entertainment possibilities, while a Jeff Koons balloon dog sculpture is a whimsical addition to the otherwise classic Wine Country landscape that surrounds the home.
For more information about this home at 150 Bailhache Ave., contact Sheri Morgensen 415-269-5634, 707-431-0777 or Jessica Wynne, 415-509-2611, 415-296-2223,with Sotheby’s International Realty, Healdsburgshowcase.com
Healdsburg’s Jordan Vineyard and Winery has made this year’s World’s 50 Best Vineyards list, as announced Wednesday at an event in Mendoza, Argentina.
Coming in at No. 46, Jordan is the only Sonoma County winery to make the list this year. Napa Valley’s Robert Mondavi Winery, which took the No. 7 spot, was named the best vineyard in North America and Opus One in Oakville came in at No. 24. Antinori nel Chianti Classico in Italy’s Tuscany region topped the list for the first time.
The World’s 50 Best Vineyards ranking is organized by UK-based William Reed Media, which also releases the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants and World’s 50 Best Bars lists.
“The World’s Best Vineyards highlights wine tourism destinations around the globe and now that travel is back on the cards, this year’s list is more important than ever for raising profiles with tourists and those looking for authentic and unique trips,” commented Andrew Reed, Managing Director Wine and Exhibitions at William Reed, from the event in Mendoza.
At Jordan Vineyard and Winery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Jordan Vineyard & Winery)Member’s of Jordan’s loyalty program can book overnights stays in the winery chateau. (Courtesy of Jordan Vineyard & Winery)
The World’s 50 Best Vineyards described the ethos of Jordan Vineyard and Winery as “the spirit of France in Sonoma” on its website and highlighted the winery’s commitment to protecting flora and fauna. Founders Tom and Sally Jordan designed the Bordeaux-inspired winery chateau 50 years ago. Today, the winery is focused on land preservation and sustainability, while providing guests unique culinary experiences, Russian River chardonnay and Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon.
“We are honored to be included in this list of extraordinary wineries from across the globe. This year we celebrate our 50th anniversary so to be named alongside these world-renowned, legendary institutions is truly an incredible achievement,” said Kendall Busby, Director of Marketing and Communications at Jordan Vineyard and Winery.
Guests to Jordan Vineyard & Winery can choose from a variety of experiences, including a tour of the 1,200-acre estate aboard a Mercedes Sprinter. Members of the winery’s loyalty program, Jordan Estate Rewards, can stay overnight at the French-style chateau, which recently underwent a $1 million remodel.
The 2022 World’s 50 Best Vineyards list included wineries from 20 countries on six continents. Find the full list here. Click through the above gallery to see photos of Jordan Vineyard and Winery.
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, 1474 Alexander Valley Road Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com.
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Bloom Carneros, formerly Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten, in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Wine tasting without food is an exercise in futility.
Sure that boozy, jammy zinfandel tastes great swirling around in a glass, but it’s going to taste like a wet wool blanket with your sheet-pan chicken. It’s not going to even be that great with pizza.
Kivelstadt Cellars & Winegarten is the anti-tasting-room experience, offering not just food-friendly wines, but mix-and-match tasting experiences that pair perfectly with the chef-driven menu at the Sonoma winery’s casual restaurant and wine garden.
Think of it more like a brewery, where you can sit with kids, friends and dogs (there’s a menu just for Fido) and taste the latest releases with comforting food like an earthy mushroom Cubano, fish taco or light ahi tuna poke salad. No high-pressure sales, just high-impact wines, from experimental red wines made with carbonic fermentation (more on that later) and a very drinkable white Rhone blend to a juicy Charbono that uses one of the region’s most underappreciated (and nearly extinct) grapes.
Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna with avocado, kewpie and served with chips from served with Twice Removed Rosé from the taps at Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Hidden in plain sight just south of the town of Sonoma, the sprawling wine garden is an all-season destination with of-the-moment seasonal dishes that speak to the region’s bounty without feeling precious.
Chef Jennifer McMurry, formerly of Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen and Viola Restaurant, has taken over the kitchen, pumping up the menu with her extraordinary talents both in savory and sweet dishes.
She took over the restaurant in May following a three-month closure for renovations and the departure of Chef Oscar Bendeck who was opening chef at the tasting room and restaurant. Bendeck now runs a catering business called Wine Country Collective.
The sprawling wine garden has umbrella-shaded outdoor seats as well as a covered patio, making it a perfect place for brunch or an afternoon nibble. “Hidden gem” is definitely apropos for this secret Sonoma County experience where kids can roam, dogs have their own menu.
You may find fish tacos if there’s good local halibut, fried chicken bites with whipped ricotta or a S’more in a Jar ($12) with freshly baked graham crackers, chocolate cream and toasted meringue. Each item has a suggested wine pairing, if you’re so inclined. A by-the-glass menu ranges from $9 to $14 (local beer and nonalcoholic drinks are also available).
It’s worth exploring these playful wines, like the Family Secret sauvignon blanc, red Rhone blend and carbonic wines offered on tap. Owner Jordan Kivelstadt works with winemaker Sam Baron to create wines that are serious enough to impress pinkies-up wine bullies but playful enough for a pool party.
Mushroom Cubano with a pinot noir from Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Carbonic wines, from the experimental division of Kivelstadt Wineries, are super-light, low-tannin, low-alcohol wines made using carbonic fermentation, a winemaking process in which whole clusters of grapes are blanketed with carbon dioxide and held at cool temperatures before being pressed and finished in barrels. All you really need to understand is that these bright, fruity wines are the equivalent of a light saison versus a stout.
So go for brunch, lunch or just an afternoon break from all that serious wine tasting to this place where no one cares if you drink orange wine with a burger.
“We’re all about meeting you where you are in your wine journey,” according to the tasting menu. We couldn’t agree more.
Best Bets
McMurry’s menu is hyperseasonal, so ingredients like corn and tomatoes may fall off the list soon. Don’t worry, there’s always something new to try.
Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna, $24: Each dish at Kivelstadt is a small work of art, but this mound of ruby tuna atop fresh avocado puree is especially so. Dots of kewpie mayo add a creamy element to the deep umami of shoyu sesame vinaigrette.
Elote, $14: Smoked corn is a revelation, but this helping is punctuated by tart lime vinaigrette and mildly spicy jalapeño aioli. It’s one of the best versions of this street food we’ve ever had.
Watermelon and Tomato Salad, $16: Fresh bites of juicy watermelon wouldn’t seem to match with a honey-viognier vinaigrette, but the sweet-sour pairing is a revelation.
Chef Jennifer McMurry plates Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna over avocado from Kivelstadt Cellars and Winegarten in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Mushroom Cubano, $18: This is the Cubano we’ve searched for, with a twist. Smoked cremini mushrooms take the place of meat and are accented by spicy pickles, cabbage, Jack cheese and mustard aioli. Sandwiched between two thick slices of airy, toasted focaccia, it’s a hearty, messy handful, but perfectly balanced — not too much bread, not too much filling. Just right.
Caramel, Corn and Blackberry, $15: Creamy corn panna cotta is the base for this refreshing dessert, topped by fresh figs, blackberry curd and tiny nibbles of almond nougat and caramel corn.
Tasting flights (we love the Off the Beaten Path Flight) $35: These flights consist of four pours. Side-by-side tastings of varietals are $20 and a vertical tasting of the Father’s Watch Rhone Blend is $30. For small bites, an abbreviated share-and-pair menu is available for the tasting. You also can pair tastings with items from the full menu.
Kivelstadt Cellars & Winegarten is located at 22900 Broadway in Sonoma and is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday and Monday, and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday to Saturday. Call 707-938-7001, or visit kivelstadtcellars.com.
The Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg on Tuesday, November 17, 2021. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Don’t feel like doing all that cooking for Thanksgiving this year? Restaurants, cafes and grocers in Sonoma County are taking the work out of the holiday by offering Thanksgiving meals for dining in or takeout. Here are a handful across the county, with their specials.
Santa Rosa
John Ash & Co: For dining in. The menu isn’t finalized yet, but it will include a three-course prix fixe meal with six choices for starters, seven choices for entrees and four choices for desserts. $90 for adults, $45 for children 12 and under. Reserve a table by calling 707-527-7687. 4350 Barnes Road.
Glen Ellen
The Fig Cafe: Dine in for a three-course prix fixe meal from 1 to 6 p.m. Nov. 24. Start with Acme bread for the table and choose from fig and arugula salad, crispy Brussels sprouts salad or celery root bisque to start. Main course choices are roast turkey breast, pan-seared flounder, pot roast or roasted mushroom risotto. Dessert choices are poached pear or roasted pumpkin crisp. $60 for adults, $45 for children 10 and under. Add a wine pairing for $15; other beverages not included in the price. Make a reservation by calling 707-933-3000 or on resy.com. For more information, visit thefigcafe.com. 13690 Arnold Drive.
Glen Ellen Star: Order a meal for eight people for takeout. Available to pick up 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Nov. 24. The package includes a whole spatchcock Diestel Ranch turkey with gravy; chicory salad with honey crisp apple, pecans and Roquefort dressing; buttermilk mashed potatoes; sourdough-mushroom stuffing; caramelized Brussels sprouts; fresh baked rolls; maple-glazed cranberry-orange sauce; and pumpkin pie. $75 per person. Pre-order on glenellenstar.com and call 707-343-1384 for more information. 13648 Arnold Drive.
Healdsburg
Dry Creek Kitchen: Three-course prix fixe dinner with optional wine pairing. The first course is a choice of sweet potato sformato, baby lettuce salad, chicory and squash, braised pheasant tortellini or kanpachi crudo. For the second course, choose from turkey breast roulade, delicata squash casarecce, pork chop, New York strip steak or bay salmon. Dessert options are pumpkin cheesecake, chocolate peanut butter bar or apple tart. For an additional $16 per side dish, choose from pomme puree, herb-roasted sweet potatoes and Blue Lake bean casserole. 2 to 7 p.m. $110 for adults, $55 for children under 12. Reserve a table at drycreekkitchen.com. 317 Healdsburg Ave.
Spoonbar: From 2 to 7 p.m. on Nov. 24, dine in and choose from options on a prix fixe three-course menu. For the first course, choose from roasted cauliflower soup, Preston Vineyard radicchio salad, Belgian endive and beet salad, or tuna sashimi. For the main, choose from a turkey, Mendocino Petrale Sole, brined Niman Ranch pork chop, 10 oz. prime New York, or curried cauliflower steak. Lastly, dessert options include pumpkin pie or chocolate pot de creme. Children 12 and under can choose from a turkey dinner, cheeseburger and fries, or rigatoni with marinara. $79 for adults, $35 for children under 12. Reserve a table at spoonbar.com. 219 Healdsburg Ave.
Kenwood
Salt and Stone: A three-courses prix fixe menu with five to six choices for each course. For the first course, choose from two soups and three salads, including pumpkin and apple soup and Little Gem Caesar salad. For the second course, choose from Diestel Ranch turkey, prime rib, salmon, porchetta or roasted squash. Dessert choices include pumpkin cheesecake, butterscotch bread pudding, apple galette and other options. Prices vary from $45 to $70, depending on your choice of entree. Children under 10 dine for $20. Additional items such as a charcuterie and cheese board or truffle macaroni and cheese are available for purchase. Make a reservation at saltstonekenwood.com or call 707-833-6326. 9900 Sonoma Highway.
Tips Roadside: To-go meals available for pre-order, serving four people for a total of $240. The meal package includes the following: garlic and rosemary brined smoked turkey, slow braised smoke kissed ham shanks, baby kale and sweet spinach caesar salad, sauteed Blue Lake green beans, candied yams, house mashed potatoes, toasted corn bread stuffing, classic turkey giblet gravy, a basket of brioche butter-top rolls, and burnt whiskey laced orange-cranberry compote. A “Just the Sides” option is available for $140, serving four people. Add-ons include a slow roasted prime rib, traditional pumpkin pie, classic molasses pecan pie, or Disaronno carmel apple turnovers for an additional cost. The pickup is on Wednesday, Nov. 23 between 3 and 6 p.m. Order on tipsroadside.com. 8445 Sonoma Highway.
Sebastopol and west county
Pascaline Patisserie & Cafe: Takeout menu for the holiday coming soon on pascalinepatisserieandcafe.com. Executive chef and owner Didier Ageorges says, “You roast the turkey, we offer the sides and sweets options.” 707-823-3122, 4552 Gravenstein Highway N.
Agriculture Public House at Dawn Ranch: Dawn Ranch’s onsite restaurant will serve a three-course prix fixe Thanksgiving dinner. The menu will include dishes like Pumpkin Safe Arancini, Warm Butternut Squash Soup, Arugula Fig Salad, Honey Mustard Slow Braised Turkey and Grilled Portabello. The dinner experience ($65) can be booked by emailing dining@dawnranch.com. 16467 California 116, Guerneville, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com
Sonoma
the girl & the fig: Offering a three-course prix fixe menu of Thanksgiving dishes with a twist. Choose from starters of fall squash salad, celery root and parsnip bisque or pear salad. For an entree, choose roast turkey breast, smoked short ribs, sauteed flounder or butternut squash risotto. Dessert choices are a chocolate nut tart, caramel baked apple or profiteroles. $72 for adults, $60 for children. $18 to add a wine pairing. Beverages not included. Make a reservation by calling 707-938-3634 or online at thegirlandthefig.com. 110 W. Spain St.
Layla Restaurant, MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa: Dine in from noon to 7 p.m. Browse a three-course prix fixe menu, with first-course options of tuna tartare with roasted squash, Swiss chard and feta phyllo pie or chop salad. Entree choices are Mediterranean Branzino, beef tenderloin, roasted turkey breast or butternut squash ragout. Shared side dishes for the table are buttered mashed potatoes, roasted acorn squash and smoked sweet potatoes. For dessert, there will be a variety of choices from the pastry chef. $110 for adults, $35 for children and $45 for wine pairings. Make a reservation at macarthurplace.com or call 707-938-2929. 29 E. MacArthur St.
Wit & Wisdom: For dining in, indulge in a three-course prix fixe dinner. For the first course, choose from cioppino, crab and endive salad, mixed greens or sweet potato agnolotti. For the entree, choose from turkey breast, Wagyu beef, sea bass or lobster pot pie. For dessert, choose from a chocolate bar, pumpkin sundae or cheesecake. Includes sides of Brussels sprouts, green bean casserole and pomme puree. $109 per guest. 1 to 7 p.m. on Nov. 24. Call 707-931-3405 or visit witandwisdomsonoma.com to make reservations.
Wit & Wisdom is also offering a takeout package for $225, which serves four to six people. The meal includes a wedge salad and sweet potato soup for starters; a whole Mary’s turkey (brined and ready to cook); side dishes of whipped potatoes, cornbread stuffing, Brussels sprouts and green bean casserole; and apple pie for dessert. For an additional cost, purchase premade cocktails ($35 for one bottle, which makes three cocktails) or a bottle of wine for serving. Order by emailing info@witandwisdomsonoma.com by 8 p.m. Nov. 20. 1325 Broadway, Sonoma.
El Dorado Kitchen: “Thanksgiving Takeaway Feast” available for pre-order by Nov. 17. The dinner includes the following: mixed greens with apples, beets, cojita cheese, pickled red onion, pepitas, and sherry vinaigrette; roasted free-range turkey with potato puree, brioche stuffing, brussels sprouts, sage gravy, and cranberry compote; and individual pumpkin pies. $65 a person before tax. Place orders online here: bit.ly/3WQ938y. 405 1st St.
On the coast
Drakes: Dine in for a prix fixe seasonally inspired menu created by Chef Damon Jones from 2:30 to 6:45 p.m. Nov. 24. For the first course, choose from kabocha squash bisque, organic field greens, or warm foraged mushroom bread pudding. For the second course, choose from rosemary-juniper berry brined and roasted turkey, honey-bourbon glazed Caggiano ham, cast iron skillet seared Creative King salmon, or roasted spaghetti squash and vegan nut Bolognese. For dessert, options include pumpkin pie, pecan pie, and chocolate Budino. $75 per adult.
Children’s offerings are available from 2 to 6 p.m. This is a three-course prix fixe meal, as well. Choose from crudite or kabocha squash bisque to start. For “The Main Event,” choose from roasted local turkey breast, a burger with cheddar, or chicken tenders. Ice cream sundae for dessert. $30 per child. Call 707-377-5010 or visit drakesbodegabay.com/menus to make a reservation. 103 Coast Highway 1, Bodega Bay.
Coast Kitchen: Three-course prix fixe menu for dining in. Start with roasted squash soup, beets carpaccio salad, or fresh local dressed oysters. For the entree, choose from Willie Bird turkey, homemade cavatelli, or California halibut. Family style sides include mashed potatoes, green beans, and wild rice and mushroom stuffing. For dessert, choose from a dessert duo of pecan apple pie and pumpkin cheesecake, or seasonal gelato or sorbet. $85 for adults, $40 for children 12 and under. Reservations required on coastkitchensonoma.com. 21780 Highway 1, Jenner.
Markets and more
Oliver’s Market: A complete holiday meal serving six to eight people. Allow two hours to heat the meal, which includes Diestel Ranch turkey, traditional holiday stuffing, mashed potatoes with chives, vegetable medley and dinner rolls. Add a pie for an additional cost. Order from oliversmarket.com.
Suncraft Fine Foods: Delivery. Order a takeout Thanksgiving-themed dinner package to be delivered within Sonoma Valley, Petaluma, Rohnert Park, east Santa Rosa or Oakmont. For more details including prices and menus, call 707-343-6016 or email feast@suncraftfinefoods.com.
Whole Foods: Order from a variety of Thanksgiving dishes and ready-to-cook meals and sides. Ready-made meals range in price from $49.99 for a vegan meal for two people to $569.99 for a Thanksgiving Extravaganza for 12 people, with a whole turkey, maple bourbon ham, stuffing, squash soup, empanadas, a shrimp platter, mashed potatoes and more. Other options include a surf and turf meal for four people ($199.99) and a whole roast turkey meal for four people with three side dishes and cranberry sauce ($109.99). Choose a store near you on wholefoodsmarket.com to place your order. Orders must be placed at least 48 hours before pickup date and time.
House-ground patty with Sonoma County Meat Co. bacon and brisket and chuck, chèvre ranch, Joe Matos cheese, crispy shallots, tomato, and shredded iceberg on Costeaux French Bakery brioche. (Lunch Box)
The recent, much-anticipated opening of Sebastopol’s new burger and hoagie cafe went so well the restaurant had to close briefly during its first week to catch up with demand.
Lunch Box officially opened Thursday, Oct. 20, with classic burgers, fries, grilled cheese melts and hoagies. We grabbed a quick bite on opening day.
The Burger Harn ($18), with cheddar, “fancy sauce,” onion butter, red onion and shredded iceberg, gets our nod for the ultimate bun-and-meat combination. (We like our burgers with all the fixings, a squishy bun, shredded lettuce and plenty of juicy goodness.)
Meatball sub from Lunch Box in Sebastopol. (Lunch Box)
Kimchee Grilled Cheese ($16) is a proper bit of sandwichery, with melted Highway 1 Fontina, jack and cheddar cheese and toppings of homemade kimchee and garlic-chile aioli on two slices of Red Bird sourdough Pullman loaf.
As the weather cools, a thick tomato soup is a perfect side dish. Stay tuned for more tastiness as the menu continues to roll out.
After being closed for nearly three months, Healdsburg’s favorite hot dog and sausage cafe, The Wurst, has reopened. Water damage closed the restaurant in late summer, but now the space has dried out, been spiffed up and is ready to welcome diners again. 22 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-395-0214, thewurst.com
Meanwhile, the William Tell House in Tomales has closed for the winter. Its owners decided to let staff take a break and recharge after a busy summer season.
“We based our decision on many factors, most important of which is to give our staff a much-needed break during the holiday season,” read a statement about the temporary closure on the restaurant’s Instagram page.
The former K&L Bistro in Sebastopol. (Courtesy of K&L Bistro)
The closure of K&L Bistro earlier this year left a hole in the heart of Sebastopol. But the new occupants of the restaurant space at 119 S. Main St. are making progress on the forthcoming Goldfinch.
The new restaurant will be part of the in-progress Livery on Main project, a food hall and event and co-working space operated by Farm to Coast Collective, a subsidiary of local development company the Beale Group.
Though Goldfinch is still very much under construction, it’s slated for an early 2023 opening. Nick Izzarelli (food and beverage director at Stark Reality Restaurants) will be the food and beverage director, and Rodrigo Mendoza (Charro Negro chef) will head the kitchen.
The new co-working space inside the Livery on Main:
The adjacent food hall inside Livery on Main is taking a bit longer than expected to complete, according to Greg Beale, CEO of the Beale Group. But construction is underway. The food hall will include several 300- to 500-square-foot kitchen spaces for budding restaurants and food businesses. Other levels of the building will host a lounge, restaurant, event space and co-working areas. The 22,000-square-foot, mixed-use project was announced in 2021. Beale hopes to open the food hall in late 2023.
Glen Ellen residents Lauri and Tim Dorman, who lost their ranch home in the 2017 Nuns Fire, found a key source of recovery and resilience in their three adult children.
Just days after the fire, the family all spread out around a big table at the home of their oldest daughter in Marin. Working from a cluster of laptops, the couple’s children kicked off the long insurance process and notified the couple’s many friends. “The kids didn’t want us to have to tell that story over and over,” explains Lauri.
“This is what we trained for as a family,” says Tim, noting how fortunate they were to have their kids’ support. “And their technology!” laughs Lauri.
The couple brought plenty of professional skills to the process of rebuilding. Lauri, a former operations director at a large catering company, found meaning in managing small details. “Give me a spreadsheet, and I’m in hog heaven,” she says. “In many ways, that’s how I got through.” Tim, an executive and leadership coach, is steeped in the art of listening.
Lauri Dorman, a passionate home cook, enjoys the new kitchen. The Japanese tansu chest replaces an antique lost in the fire, which the family had purchased while living in Japan for Tim’s job. (Eileen Roche)
In mapping out their own plan of reinvention, he says they were guided by an overarching sense of purpose, a plan to figure out how to recapture their joy. “When you lose everything, life hands you a blank canvas,” he explains.
Early on, they met with an architect to discuss rebuild options. They soon decided a custom “stickbuilt” home wasn’t affordable or fast enough for the timeframe they had in mind. Instead, they settled on a prefab Breezehouse by Blu Homes—a modern structure with open views through large windows.
A year and a half after the fire, the home’s three main modules, with nearly all interior elements already in place, including appliances, cabinetry, and tilework, arrived on trucks at their lot in Glen Ellen. The entire Dorman family gathered alongside friends and neighbors to watch as a crane lowered the modules onto their new slab foundation—a process that took just a couple of hours. As the crane operators worked, family and friends celebrated with glasses of wine and a special playlist of songs centered around the theme of home.
The layout of the new home fits well with how the Dormans like to spend their time. A large deck overlooks the yard, where they garden and keep honeybees. In the large dining area just off the kitchen, a new table was custom-built from a salvaged oak tree.
“We needed something with some soul,” Lauri explains. “Nearly everything in the house is brand-new.” In decorating, they say they didn’t want to replicate the possessions and furniture they once had, which included antiques and other finds from years spent living abroad. Instead, they now find meaning in new pieces, like the handmade quilt that sits at the end of their bed, a gift from a colleague of Tim’s brother. Or the desk in the office, which their son and a friend fabricated from a backyard oak that was in the path of the fire. The heavy oak grain enfolds long, gray burn marks.
A fire-scarred oak still stands in the new backyard. (Eileen Roche)Making applesauce with one of “the grands,” as Lauri calls her grandchildren. (Eileen Roche)
Outside, the couple sees meaning in nature’s resilience. Their small collection of olive trees is a mix of ones they planted anew after the fire and three others that burned, were cut down to stumps, and, to the couple’s surprise, regrew beautifully. A half-charred oak still survives, as does a treasured Gravenstein apple tree that Lauri harvests each year to make applesauce with her grandchildren.
The resilience of these trees isn’t lost on the couple. “If the oak can recover,” Tim says, “so can we.”
They credit friends and neighbors with bolstering their resilience. Early on, Lauri’s friends from the local beekeeping group coordinated housing.
Another friend blanketed their entire neighborhood in over 5,000 daffodil bulbs—a sign of hope in that first difficult spring after the fire. The gratitude came full circle during a special service at Kenwood Community Church, where their son spoke to the congregation, thanking them for their support of his parents.
In the early weeks after the fire, Tim recalls thinking it would have been easier for the couple to pack their bags and start a new life somewhere else. But that changed as they saw friends in their community stand “shoulder to shoulder” with them. “We made a full commitment to the people who were fully committed to us,” Tim says. “We were overwhelmed by the intensity of it.”
Much of the family’s renovation budget was put to an expanded kitchen where they cook big Sunday meals together. (Eileen Roche)
Editor’s note: Terry Sanders is a candidate for the hotly contested District 4 seat on the Santa Rosa City Council. The other candidates for this seat are incumbent Victoria Fleming, small business owner Henry Huang and Scheherazade “Shari” Shamsavari, a retired health and education professional. The story was reported in early June 2022, before the height of the campaign season. It originally appeared in the print magazine’s special resilience section, focusing on stories of families building new lives after the 2017 wildfires.
The story of how the Sanders family found home after the 2017 fires is one of resilience. Terry Sanders, a retired Oakland firefighter and musician, and his wife Debra, who works with foster youth for the county’s office of education, lived with their 16-year-old son Isaac in a series of rentals for months while trying to figure out how best to rebuild their former Fountaingrove home.
Their tentative rebuild plans took a turn when friends told them about a historic home in Santa Rosa’s McDonald Avenue neighborhood. The home, a landmark Art Deco/Tudor Revival owned for over 50 years by county supervisor Helen Rudee and her family, was going up for auction, and the Sanders family decided to put in a bid. Terry, who knew the neighborhood well after staying with friends around the corner after the fire, remembers thinking it wasn’t likely that anything would come of their bid. And anyway, he and Debra weren’t entirely sure the look of the home was their style. “It looked like a church,” Terry says. “But then when it came on the market, and this all happened, we were just so excited.”
The Sanders home in the McDonald Avenue neighborhood in Santa Rosa. (Eileen Roche)Debra, Terry and Isaac Sanders. (Eileen Roche)
The family fell head over heels for the house. Realizing it was really theirs was an emotional moment, after long months in rental houses as they negotiated with their insurance company. “Debra and I sat down here, and we said to Isaac, ‘This is your home now. This is your neighborhood. Take a stroll, feel it out,’” Terry recalls. “No more trips to the storage unit, no more any of that, because we’re home.”
A young family moving into the old Rudee place was big news within the tight-knit McDonald Avenue neighborhood. In the large front window facing the street, Terry and Debra propped up a giant teddy bear, one that had belonged to Isaac as a child and which they had saved from the fire, with a note saying how excited they were to meet their new neighbors, just as soon as they could. The giant teddy bear is now a neighborhood landmark in its own right, and is dressed up in special outfits for holidays—or for San Francisco 49ers football wins.
The staircase. (Eileen Roche)The sunroom. (Eileen Roche)
The Sanders family is just the fourth family to live in the house, which was built in 1931. They hold a deep-rooted respect for the home’s long history, a respect which has been a hallmark for the family through a series of renovations since they arrived at the home in late 2018. “The thing that was important to us was to make sure that anything we did needed to look like it had always been here—the baseboards, the light switches, all the old wood,” says Terry. “We had to let the house speak to us; we had to fit in with it. That was the guiding principle.”
Terry and Debra say they love how they’re able to keep their family life in the home simple and old fashioned. They can rest and read on an traditional sleeping porch off the guest bedroom upstairs or do puzzles in the sunroom off the living room downstairs. “This is another great thing about the house— it’s all analog. There’s nothing digital here. None of that. There’s no coffee maker—we boil water on the stove, and we pour it over,” Terry says.
The great room. (Eileen Roche)
Allowances made to the home’s long history sometimes made necessary updates more complicated.
“We’d hear, ‘If you just let us take all the plaster out, then we can put in the new wiring,’” Terry remembers. “And I’d say, ‘No way. That’s hundred-year-old plaster, man. You need to figure out a different way.’” Plaster and wood were eventually preserved, as was the distinctive flame-colored tile on the home’s exterior—a tile that helps ground the Tudor home squarely in the 1930s Art Deco era, when humble craftsmanship was elevated to high art. “Back in the day, there was no Lowe’s, no Home Depot. Someone made that tile. They had to fire it and make it,” says Terry. “I mean, I have the actual original blueprints for that tile, which I think is the coolest thing.”
The majority of the work the family did, in addition to modernizing plumbing and bathrooms, went into a large new kitchen at the back of the house. Now Sundays are family days, and Debra’s elderly father, who recently moved into a home just five minutes away, comes over so the family can cook a big meal together in the bright, airy space.
And Thursday nights are once again band nights. Terry has played in a Sonoma County blues band with a few friends for over a decade, and they practice in a separate band room out near the carport. Isaac, also a gifted musician, plays on a baby grand piano in the living room that was given to the family after their old piano was lost in the fire. “We’ll come back from a walk in the neighborhood and just sit outside for a few minutes, listening to him playing piano,” Terry says.
The renovated sleeping porch upstairs. (Eileen Roche)Thursday nights are band nights. (Eileen Roche)
Debra and Terry say now that the family is settled, and now that her father is living just a couple minutes away, they can draw strength from each other in new and different ways. “And that means that we are able to provide that strength to others. When you have found stability like this, it makes it easier for you to be that anchor of stability for someone else who may need someone to lean on for just a little bit,” says Terry. “You know what I mean? ‘When you’re not strong, I’ll be your strength. I’ll help you carry on.’”
Resources
Builder: McIntosh Builders, Santa Rosa, 707-573-3947
Sonoma County may be world-famous for its wines, but it is also a popular destination for wellness activities. From Zen-inducing hotels, spas and hikes to nourishing meals from local restaurants, there’s something for every stressed-out soul in search of a reinvigorating getaway. Click through the above gallery for some of our favorite Wine Country wellness spots.
Trousseau Gris. Arneis. Nero D’Avola. The names roll off the tongue heftily, with a hint of swagger and a suggestion of the Old World. In a country where just three varieties of winegrapes—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon—account for three-fourths of the yearly crop, there’s a thrill in discovering these other flavors and histories.
For many winemakers, the allure lies in seeking out pockets of nearly-forgotten fruit, vines that have survived the ups and downs of evolving industry trends. Darek Trowbridge of Old World Winery honors a family heirloom when he works with the rare Abouriou vines his grandfather planted a century ago. For others it’s about broadening horizons. “You wouldn’t listen to the exact same music every single day, or eat the same food, or drink the same drink,” says Scott Schultz of Jolie-Laide Wines. “Why limit yourself to just a few grapes?”
And for nearly all, it’s a call to action—a response to warmer temperatures and hope in finding new varieties to cultivate, ones with the potential to thrive in a changing climate.
Sam Bilbro of Idlewild Wines. (Leigh Ann Beverly)
The Winemaker
Sam Bilbro, Idlewild Wines
Sam Bilbro’s passion for wines from Italy’s Piedmont region could be the wine industry’s answer to climate change in Northern California. As winemaker and owner of Idlewild Wines, Bilbro was happy to discover Piedmont grape varieties grow exceptionally well in areas of Northern California, where many have less mildew pressure, lower water needs, and naturally high acidity that can balance the sugar of a hot growing season.
“Most of the wines out there are tied to market demand; that’s why many people are less inclined to experiment with new grapes,” says Bilbro. “But we need to refocus what we’re planting because of climate change. And weather isn’t just getting warmer—there is more variability. Someday, we might get more rain in the summer or colder winters. We need more diverse plantings in the vineyards because we need to hedge our bets.”
For Bilbro, that means working with grapes like Arneis, Barbera, Freisa, Grignolino, and Favorita, which he sources from Mendocino’s Yorkville Highlands, Russian River Valley, the North Coast, and beyond. Now, other wineries are asking whether he has any fruit to sell or advice on what to plant.
“If we’re talking about planting new varieties so we can adapt to climate change, I think we also need to talk about diversity in the vineyard, healthy soils, fungi— and even treatment of our labor force. It’s encouraging to hear people talking about change in the wine industry. But it’s really about creating a much healthier system overall.”
Idlewild Wines, 132 Plaza St., Healdsburg. 707-385-9410, idlewildwines.com
Rare Vineyards to Know
Sherry Martinelli Vineyard
Location: Russian River Valley | Variety: Abouriou | Size: 4 Acres
Planted 80 years ago by pioneering vintner Giuseppe Martinelli, this venerable block of head-pruned Abouriou vines is now meticulously cared for by Martinelli’s great-grandson, winemaker Darek Trowbridge of Old World Winery.
Trowbridge was excited to work with the uncommon variety, which is thought to have origins in the Lot-et-Garonne region of southwest France. No one knows exactly how the 4 acres of Abouriou ended up in Sonoma County, but Trowbridge suspects his Italian immigrant great-grandfather planted it as part of a field blend.
“At first, I had no idea what the heck it was,” Trowbridge says. “DNA testing pointed to Blue Portuguese, but it’s nothing like that grape. It’s a big, burly, rustic grape with deeply concentrated skins. And it’s gamey—almost like Lambrusco—with distinct cherry flavors.” His current Abouriou release, the 2014 Luminous, is for sale through his website.
The TTB, the government agency that taxes and regulates alcohol sales, officially recognizes Abouriou as “Early Burgundy,” and, much to Trowbridge’s chagrin, they insisted he list that name on the label. But that won’t stop him from experimenting with the exceedingly rare family heirloom.
Old World Winery, 850 River Road, Fulton. 707-490-6696, oldworldwinery.com
Jack’s Filling Station on Broadway in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)Jack’s Filling Station on Broadway in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)
Miracle Plum: 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa. 707-708-7986
Bottle Barn: 3331-A, Industrial Dr., Santa Rosa. 707-528-1161
Spotlight on Fiano
Fiano is considered one of the finest white wines of Italy, where it’s best known in the Campania region, in the appellation of Avellino. The variety dates back more than 2,000 years, and wine historians believe it was cultivated in ancient Rome. The medium to full-bodied wine is redolent of flowers, pear, honey, and hazelnuts, with surprisingly crisp acidity and minerality.
Commentators Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon are joined on their show by some of Sonoma County’s most influential winemakers. Gain insight on new, rare, or historical grape varieties growing in the region and people bringing positive change to the industry. Wednesdays, 5-6 p.m. on KSRO or through podcast apps.
Unti Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
More of What’s Next…
Arneis, Italy/White: Native to Italy’s Piedmont region, Arneis is nicknamed “little rascal” due to its fussiness in the vineyard. Brought back from the brink of extinction in the 1960s, the grape produces floral, full-bodied white wines with notes of pear, apple, and apricot. Who works with it? Seghesio Family Vineyards, Healdsburg. seghesio.com
Lagrein, Italy/Red: In 1370, the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV sang the praises of this robust grape from Alto-Adige, which nearly disappeared in the 1970s. It produces hearty, deeply-hued wines with black cherry, blackberry, black pepper, and fresh acidity. Who works with it? Imagery Estate Winery, Glen Ellen. imagerywinery.com
Cabernet Pfeffer, France/Red: The origin of the Cabernet Pfeffer grape was shrouded in mystery until recent genetic analysis revealed it’s a variety also called Mourtaou. Exceedingly rare, the bright, peppery grape is now grown primarily in San Benito County. Who works with it? Bedrock Wine Company, Sonoma. bedrockwineco.com
French Colombard, France/White: A cross between Chenin Blanc and Gouais Blanc, French Colombard originated in southwest France, where it’s used primarily in Cognac and Armagnac. The fruit has bright acidity with nuances of tart green apple, melon, and peach with a hint of almond. Who works with it? Meadowcroft Wines, Sonoma. meadowcroftwines.com
Biancolella, Italy/White: Biancolella is grown primarily on the island of Ischia off Italy’s Amalfi Coast, where coastal influences and volcanic soils produce an aromatic wine with great minerality, ample acidity, and flavors of white stone fruit and almond. Who works with it? Unti Vineyards, Healdsburg. untinvineyards.com; Orsi Family Vineyards, Healdsburg. orsifamilyvineyards.com
Nerello Mascalese, Italy/Red: Commonly found on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, Nerello Mascalese has been compared to Pinot Noir for its juicy, red fruit and vibrant acidity, with dried herbs and spice on the finish. Aeris Wines in Healdsburg is the first to grow this variety in California. Who works with it? Aeris Wines, Healdsburg. aeriswines.com
Malvasia Bianca, Italy/Greece/White: Believed to be of ancient Greek origin, Malvasia Bianca is part of a family of Malvasia grapes that have been grown in Italy since the Middle Ages. Used for sparkling, dry, and dessert wines, it is intensely floral with ripe tropical fruit notes, pear, and bright acidity. Who works with it? Edaphos by Ernest Vineyards, Windsor. edaphoswines.com
Saint Laurent, Austria/Red: Indigenous to Austria, Saint Laurent is a rare red variety potentially related to Pinot Noir. Ricci Vineyards in Los Carneros is believed to be the only commercial grower of the variety in the United States. It’s a dark, fruity wine with cherries, blackberries, and spice. Who works with it? Ricci Vineyards, Los Carneros. riccivineyards.com
Nero d’Avola, Italy/Red: The most widely planted grape in Sicily, Nero d’Avola is a droughttolerant, heat-loving grape with great potential in California. Deep in color, it is used to produce two wine styles: One is fresh and juicy with flavors of plum and red fruit; the other is dark and dense with notes of deep raspberry and cacao. Who works with it? Martha Stoumen, Sebastopol. marthastoumen.com
Ribolla Gialla, Italy/White: Ribolla Gialla is believed to have originated in the Friuli region of Italy, where it was first documented as early as 1289. In great decline post-phylloxera, the grape has seen a resurgence as winemakers embrace its bright acidity and flavors of citrus, peach, and apple. Who works with it? Preston Farm & Winery, Healdsburg. prestonofdrycreek.com
Rare Vineyards to Know
Red Ranch
Location: Alexander Valley | Variety: Saint Macaire | Size: 1/2 Acres
Saint-Macaire, an obscure red grape native to Bordeaux, is grown in just two spots in the United States, including this half-acre parcel at Hanna Winery in Alexander Valley. Planted from budwood sourced from O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery in Napa, the Saint-Macaire vines produce deeply dark fruit with firm tannins, high acid, and distinct aromas of Kalamata olive, sarsaparilla, and ginseng.
“The grapes are completely different than anything else I’ve come across,” says Hanna winemaker Jeff Hinchliffe, who planted the 600 vines in 2010. “Its color is completely off the charts and the high tannins almost remind me of a Petit Verdot.” Hinchliffe is also struck by how early Saint-Macaire ripens and its ability to retain acidity in the heat, an important consideration with a changing climate. He is planning to expand the planting in the future.
“It’s really unique because it doesn’t have any distinct fruit characters that are easy to pinpoint,” says Hinchliffe. “But it offers deliciousness with a different twist.”
Winemaker Matthew Niess of North American Press. (Rachel Bujalski)
The Winemaker
Matthew Niess, North American Press
With little resistance to a variety of pests, fungal diseases, temperature fluctuations, and drought, Vitis vinifera is a curious grape species to grow in North America. But all European grape varieties— from Albariño to Zinfandel—are Vitis vinifera, the most commonly cultivated grape species in the world. “There is so much diversity on the grape spectrum to play with,” says Matthew Niess, winemaker at North American Press, who works with native hybrids instead. “We have at least 20-30 native species in the United States alone. Why aren’t we making wine with these?”
When Niess set out to answer this question, he found no one to talk to. So he decided to start experimenting on his own. While an assistant winemaker at Radio-Coteau, he came across nearly an acre of Baco Noir, a hybrid of Vitis vinifera and Vitis riparia, an indigenous North American species. The owner let Niess manage the vineyard, and in 2020 he used the fruit to make 85 cases of a 100% Baco Noir wine he calls The Rebel.
“When people talk about disease-resistant fruit, this is what they’re talking about,” says Niess. “These vines evolved to grow well here, so they’re naturally disease resistant. I don’t have to spray them at all. Ever.”
Not only that, Niess discovered the naturally high acid content of Baco Noir meant he didn’t have to worry as much about balancing the high sugar levels that can come in a hot growing season.
Today, Niess owns an experimental vineyard in Dry Creek Valley planted to 40 grape varieties—all hybrids of traditional European Vitis vinifera and native North American species. “I think grape breeding is going to become much more important moving forward,” says Niess. “Beyond a shadow of a doubt, these hybrids are more robust, and many are drought tolerant. Overall, they’re going to be a more sustainable option.”
A color mutation of the red Trousseau grape from the Jura in eastern France, Trousseau Gris used to be more common in California, when it was often misidentified as Gray Riesling. Today, only two vineyards continue to cultivate this rare variety in California, including one in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Trousseau Gris is a light, refreshing wine with notes of summer peach, melon, and natural acidity.
Three to try:
Two Shepherds 2021 Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley ($32)
Pax 2021 Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley ($30)
Zeitgeist 2021 Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley ($32)
Winemakers Jenny and Scott Schultz of Jolie-Laide Wines in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Scott and Jenny Schultz)
The Winemakers
Scott and Jenny Schultz, Jolie-Laide Wines, Healdsburg
Winemaker Scott Schultz was blown away when he discovered most wine drinkers limit themselves to just a handful of varietals. Originally from Chicago, where he worked at a number of high-end restaurants with diverse wine lists, he was taken aback by the monotony of many California wine drinkers.
“You wouldn’t listen to the exact same music every single day, or eat the same food, or drink the same drink,” he says. “Why limit yourself to just a few grapes? It’s a big wine world out there.”
At Jolie-Laide Wines in Healdsburg, Schultz and his wife and business partner, Jenny Schultz, focus on what they like to drink: fresh, minimally manipulated wines with grapes uncommon in the New World, like Trousseau Gris, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Cabernet Pfeffer, and Melon de Bourgogne.
Sourcing uncommon varieties can be like a game of hide and seek, and Scott and Jenny often find themselves traveling to small, far-away vineyards to obtain fruit. But maybe that’s part of the draw—it’s like a treasure hunt for winemakers.
“When we first started making these wines, many people looked at us sideways,” says Scott. “But we work hard to keep our wines tasting fresh and clean so that often appeals to people. For those who keep an open mind, they’re often pleasantly surprised when they try our wines. Now there are many people who like them.”
Grower Peter Fannuci specializes in Trousseau Gris. His family have been growing in Fulton for over 4 decades. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)Grower Peter Fannuci specializes in Trousseau Gris. His family have been growing in Fulton for over 4 decades. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Rare Vineyards to Know
Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard
Location: Russian River Valley | Variety: Trousseau Gris | Size: 10 acres
Peter Fanucchi’s Trousseau Gris vineyard is highly prized among a select few Sonoma County winemakers who are lucky enough to call dibs on the only significant planting in the United States. Native to the Jura region of eastern France, Trousseau Gris is a color mutation of Trousseau Noir, which produces clusters in a rainbow of hues: midnight purple, mottled lime green, orange red, and dusty plum. And unlike other varieties, macerating the juice on its skins doesn’t make a rosé.
But for Sonoma winemakers like Pax Mahle, William Allen of Two Shepherds, Mark Porembski of Zeitgeist Cellars, and Scott Schultz of Jolie- Laide, that’s a moot point. Each is drawn to the rare varietal’s unique personality—a personality that each winemaker defines in his own way.
Planted in 1981 by Peter Fanucchi’s father, Arcangelo, the 10-acre Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard is now managed entirely by Peter. Yielding about 6 tons per acre, the highly coveted vines produce fruit for about 10 different winemakers who each clamor for their annual share.
“It’s getting harder and harder to be a small grower like me,” says Fanucchi, who also grows old-vine Zinfandel. “I’m the one driving the tractor and doing all the work. But I love working with nature, and with this size vineyard, I’m able to switch gears easily and do what nature demands.”
Grower Peter Fannuci specializes in Trousseau Gris. His family have been growing in Fulton for over 4 decades. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Uncommon Blends
Some rare grape varieties find balance in the comfort of others. Some of our favorite rare-varietal blends:
Unti Vineyards 2021 Petite Rosé (Mourvedre, Fiano, Falanghina) $22, untivineyards.com
Rare Vines for Study
At Santa Rosa Junior College’s Shone Farm in the Russian River Valley, viticulture students work with 52 different rare grape varieties, from Catawba to Dolcetto to Muscat Orange, on the property’s 1-acre educational vineyard.
The Teaching Vineyard at Santa Rosa Junior College’s Shone Farm. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Spotlight on Aglianico
Aglianico is considered one of southern Italy’s most esteemed red grapes. Grown primarily in the regions of Campania and Basilicata, the dark red fruit produces a robust, savory wine with generous acidity that’s built for aging. Food pairings include rich meats like beef stew or game, pasta puttanesca, and roasted mushrooms.
Four to try:
Unti Vineyards 2018 Aglianico, Dry Creek Valley ($50)
Orsi Family 2018 Aglianico, Dry Creek Valley ($44)
Ryme 2021 Aglianico Rosé, Clarksburg ($26)
Sonoma County Wine Library
The Sonoma County Wine Library is a hidden gem for those seeking to expand their knowledge of rare grape varieties grown locally, with wine artifacts and over 5,000 specialty books, including one that dates to the 15th century.
Location: Dry Creek Valley | Variety: Falanghina | Size: Less than 1 acre
Indigenous to the Campania region of southern Italy, Falanghina is a white grape believed to have origins in ancient Rome, where it was used in a popular wine known as Falernian. While it’s extremely rare outside Italy, Falanghina is well suited to the warm, dry climate of Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley, which is where Dick Handal and Lisa Denier planted it in 2011. Handal had spent a lot of time in Italy and yearned to plant an Italian varietal in his home vineyard. He’d always enjoyed the bright acid and full flavor of Falanghina and thought it could handle the hot climate of western Dry Creek.
“I initially struggled to figure out how the vines wanted to be trellised and pruned,” says Handal, who sourced the budwood from UC Davis’s Foundation Plant Services. “But it was a great learning experience and well worth it. It’s an extremely rare variety that thrives in the heat and grows huge clusters and a vigorous canopy that helps prevent sunburn.”
In 2016, the winemakers at Arnot-Roberts began working with Dick Handal’s Falanghina, resulting in a wine with surprisingly fresh, bright acidity given the hot climate. Recently, the Handal-Denier vineyard was sold to new owners, who have renamed the location Juice Beauty Farm, and say they’re excited to continue to explore the potential of this antique variety now gaining all sorts of new fans.
Ryme Cellars in Forestville. (Courtesy of Ryme Cellars)
The Winemakers
Ryan and Megan Glaab, Ryme Cellars
When an unexpected ton of Aglianico grapes became available in 2007, winemakers Megan and Ryan Glaab jumped at the chance to work with the uncommon Italian variety.
“We had no idea what we were doing at the time,” says Megan Glaab, who runs Ryme Cellars with her husband, Ryan. “But we’ve always been drawn to southern Italian varieties like Aglianico. It has such a compelling structure, with spice, dark fruit, and acid that holds its integrity in the heat. It’s what we like to drink.”
That Aglianico would become the catalyst for the launch of Ryme Cellars, a Sonoma County winery that focuses primarily on Italian varieties uncommon in California, like Vermentino, Fiano, and Ribolla Gialla.
“There are at least 600 Italian grape varieties, and I find it very exciting to learn and explore a new flavor profile,” says Megan. “In the tasting room, we commonly host guests who want to try something new. I think people get sick of tasting the same wines all the time.”
Megan Glaab says she’s witnessed a big push among winemakers who want to work with less common wine grapes and hopes to see plantings continue to diversify.
“The variety makes Sonoma County even more interesting,” she says. “And as the planet warms up, it would be really nice to have new grapes to explore.”
Ryme Cellars, 6450 First St., Forestville. 707-820-8121, rymecellars.com
What’s Old Is New
The Mission Grape
The Mission grape was the first cultivated European species in North America, where it was brought to Mexico from Spain during the 16th century. About 200 years later, it was introduced to California by Spanish missionaries who used the hardy, drought-resistant grape to make sacramental wine.
While only 400 acres of Mission remain planted today, the grape has begun a quiet resurgence as consumers and winemakers continue to look to heritage grapes for something “new.” In Sonoma County, Scribe produces two Mission wines: a still and a sparkling, both served lightly chilled.
Scribe Winery in Sonoma produces two Mission wines: a still and a sparkling, both served lightly chilled.
Spotlight on Valdiguié
In 1980, DNA testing revealed the “Napa Gamay” growing in California was actually Valdiguié, a red grape once cultivated extensively in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. With bright red fruit and healthy acidity, Valdiguié is often vinified into rosé or fresh, Beaujolais-style wines that are served with a slight chill. That said, wines of greater concentration exist, too.
Three to try:
Joseph Swan 2019 Valdiguié, Sonoma County ($30)
Martha Stoumen 2019 Collaboration Valdiguié, Mendocino County ($45)
Cruse Wine Co. 2020 Monkey Jacket, North Coast ($25)
An Answer to Climate Change?
As weather patterns become more unpredictable and the climate continues to warm, a growing number of California winemakers believe untried, hybrid, and indigenous grape varieties could be the answer. Winemaker Sam Bilbro of Idlewild Wines is working with certain Piedmontese varieties that need less water, like Aglianico and Sagrantino, as well as others that maintain acid during a hot growing season, like Barbera, Arneis, and Fiano.
“Fiano can hold acid better than any Chardonnay can,” says Bilbro. “If it comes in with acidity, you don’t have to manipulate it as much in the cellar.” He also finds some Italian varieties have lower mildew and farming pressure, which means there is less need for spraying.
“More weather variability is coming,” says Bilbro. “We need to be planting grapes that allow us to work with nature rather than against it.”
