7 Serene Winter Escapes in Sonoma County

Rebrand of The Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch, CA Oct 6th and 7th 2020

The shopping, entertaining and present wrapping and unwrapping are finished. The out-of-town visitors have left and we’re back to weekday cooking and workday tasks.

If all that holiday busyness has left you feeling enervated rather than inspired for the new year, it’s a great time to pause and recharge with a change of scenery, and you don’t have to go far. From a weekend getaway to the coast to a cedar enzyme immersion at a day spa to a visit to an animal farm, these seven close-to-home jaunts offer relaxing, refreshing respite.

A coastal getaway

There are moments when the Sonoma Coast almost doesn’t seem real. One twist of Highway 1 reveals craggy cliffs, while the next unveils windswept meadows and sandy beaches fringed by churning seas. No matter how many times you’ve done the drive, the sheer immensity of it all remains staggering.

Roll down your window and take a deep breath. There’s no reason to be in a hurry in these parts. Losing cell signal and getting lost in the fog only adds to the wonderful reasons to come here.

If you need a break during the winding journey, consider stretching your legs at Jenner Headlands Preserve, where even the views from the parking lot are stellar. But as you wind along, it’s when you hit The Sea Ranch that you’ll truly feel a world away.

Lodging options are blissfully scarce along this stretch of the coast. Weekend vacation home rentals at The Sea Ranch, built of structures known for their natural forms and weathered-wood facades, are an excellent option for those looking to get lost in the beauty for a weekend. Settle into your seaside digs, scope out the perfect spot to bundle up in a blanket to watch the sunset or sunrise, then get outside and get moving.

The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)
The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)
Coastal redwoods tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. (Carlos Chavarría)
Coastal redwoods tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. (Carlos Chavarría)

Sonoma County Regional Parks maintains a network of trails in The Sea Ranch; hiking any one can instill a sense of calm. For dramatic views of the Pacific that will keep you happily on the move for hours, layer up and set out on the Bluff Top Trail. You can take it as far as Gualala if you’re motivated.

The Shell Beach Trail offers a delightful snapshot of the coastal enclave’s beauty. Less than three-quarters of a mile each way, the trail weaves through pines and alongside a meadow with ample opportunities to see birds and deer. Somewhat surprisingly, you won’t find seashells at Shell Beach, but if the tide is down, you can easily lose an afternoon tide pooling. Have a seat on a driftwood log and admire the landscape. You might catch sight of a seal or sea lion. And peak whale season officially begins in January.

Rebrand of The Sea Ranch Lodge, Sea Ranch, CA Oct 6th and 7th 2020

The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)

The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)
The Sea Ranch. (Carlos Chavarría)

Later, make the most of the sweeping seascape in a cozy corner of the recently remodeled Sea Ranch Lodge, a gathering spot for locals and visitors. Grab a cup of coffee from the cafe or a book from the general store, then settle into one of the wooden Adirondack chairs that look out at rocky cliffs that stretch for miles. If a storm rolls in, the fireplace in the solarium will keep you warm. There’s even a record player and collection of LPs to choose from, though you’ll never top the moody sound of the serenading surf outside.

Jenner Headlands Preserve: 12001 Highway 1, Jenner; 909-797-8507, wildlandsconservancy.org

Shell Beach Coastal Access Trail: 39200 Highway 1, The Sea Ranch; 707-785-2377, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Bluff Top Public Access Trail: 40101 Highway 1, The Sea Ranch; 707-785-2377, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

The Sea Ranch Lodge: 60 Sea Walk Drive, The Sea Ranch; 707-579-9777, thesearanchlodge.com

In October of 2021, the 1960s-era main building, the centerpiece of Sea Ranch community life, reopened with new public spaces open to all, including a redesigned restaurant, a new café, and expansions to the bar, lounge, and general store. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
The 1960s-era main building, the centerpiece of Sea Ranch community life, includes a redesigned restaurant, a new café, and expansions to the bar, lounge, and general store. (Carlos Chavarría)
Ocean view through a fence at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)
Ocean view through a fence at The Sea Ranch Lodge. (The Sea Ranch Lodge)

A serene stroll

Now is the quieter season along the Russian River, with misty mornings and peaceful solitude. It’s a nice chance to take a day trip to explore the river’s byways.

Begin along River Road on the deck at Farmstand, the new casual eatery at Farmhouse Inn, and treat yourself to a wood-fired pizza topped with maitake mushrooms, black truffle-leek cream and goat cheese.

Consider a post-pizza stroll at nearby Sunset Beach River Park to rack up some steps while soaking in photo-worthy views of Hacienda Bridge and hillsides covered with towering redwoods. From here, you may be able to spot steelhead trout running upstream, especially after a heavy rain.

Farmstand: 7871 River Road, Forestville; 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com

Sunset Beach River Park: 11403 River Road, Forestville; 707-433-1625, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Farmstand, the new, more casual gathering spot at Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn. (Aubrie Pick)

Greenhouse warmth in winter

Squeeze the most out of the holidays with a visit to Sonoma Botanical Garden for the Glen Ellen landmark’s first-ever indoor, living botanical exhibition, “From East to Zest.”

The garden’s propagation greenhouse was spiffed up for the show and will be filled with hundreds of rare specimen citrus trees in flower and in fruit. Decorated by Mother Nature herself, the citrus trees brim with vibrant colors and calming scents.

“I think to go into the greenhouse and to be surrounded by all these fragrant fruits, it just feels like an extraordinary plant spa,” said Scot Medbury, the garden’s director. “Plants are such a wonderful common ground for everybody.”

Hold onto the feeling of calm even longer by heading outside to explore the nearly 70-acre garden, with steep trails up the hill topping out at views of the Sonoma Valley.

Meander along the new California Trail to learn about native plants, picnic and watch for frogs near the ponds.

Sonoma Botanical Garden: 12841 Highway 12, Glen Ellen; 707-996-3166, sonomabg.org

At Beltane Ranch in
At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)
At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)
At Beltane Ranch in Glen Ellen. (Beltane Ranch)

A quiet night away

Find solitude and comfort with an overnight stay in a guesthouse just steps from the vines. Here are five favorite vineyard cottage retreats.

The owners at Forestville’s Enriquez Estate Wines turned an old milk barn into a two-bedroom Wine Country retreat. 5960 Eastside Road, Forestville; 707-347-9719, enriquezwines.com

DeLorimier Winery has a guesthouse and two suites surrounded by 17 acres of estate vineyards. 2001 Highway 128, Geyserville; 800-546-7718, delorimierwinery.com

Powered by solar energy, the Reeve Wines Villa boasts four bedrooms and three bathrooms and can accommodate eight adults. 4551 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg; 707-235-6345, reevewines.com

Beltane Ranch boasts a handful of rooms with perks like clawfoot tubs, French doors and seemingly endless views. 11775 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen; 707-833-4233, beltaneranch.com

Pezzi King visitors can soak in vineyard views while soaking in the hot tub. The estate guesthouse features four bedrooms with en suite baths and a full kitchen. 412 Hudson St., Healdsburg; 866-4734309, pezziking.com

Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary in Freestone. (Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary)
Getting the cedar enzyme bath ready. (Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary)

Renew yourself at a day spa

Have the weight of winter lifted off your shoulders at Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary in the tiny west county town of Freestone. The unique cedar enzyme bath experience at Osmosis, based on Japanese tradition, is the only one of its kind in the United States.

Find your zen as you’re enveloped in a tub full of comfortably warm, finely ground cedar and rice bran. The aromatic full-body compress provided by the cedar relieves soreness and boosts metabolism, bringing you to a state of dreamy, blissful solace. After your cedar bath, enjoy a tea service while overlooking the pond and explore acres of exquisitely maintained Japanese-style gardens.

Osmosis Day Spa and Sanctuary: 209 Bohemian Highway, Freestone; 707-823-8231, osmosis.com

Day trip to Occidental

There isn’t a bad time of year to hop in the car for a road trip to Occidental — the community’s charm is woven into its foundation. Whether it’s walking under the shade of towering redwoods at the Grove of Old Trees or along the darling two-block stretch that makes up downtown, Occidental has a way of reminding visitors that life doesn’t have to be exceedingly busy to be fulfilling.

Visit the local artisan marketplace at Altamont General Store, then warm yourself with cozy comfort food like minestrone soup and pasta at the historic Union Hotel. Family-owned and operated since 1925, it’s here that families, friends and visitors gather.

Grove of Old Trees: 17599 Fitzpatrick Lane, Occidental; landpaths.org

The Altamont General Store: 3703 Main St., Occidental; 707-874-6053, altamontgeneralstore.com

Union Hotel: 3731 Main St., Occidental; 707-874-3555, unionhoteloccidental.com

Linen napkins and handmade wares for sale at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
Linen napkins and handmade wares for sale at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
The Boho Bowl includes stewed French lentils, rice, pickled beets, Brussel sprouts, curried cauliflower, arugula, roasted root vegetables, sauerkraut, pumpkin seeds, chimichurri sauce, and creme fraiche at The Altamont General Store. Photo taken in Occidental, Calif., on Thursday, May 13, 2021. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
The Boho Bowl at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)

Visit an animal sanctuary

Whether it’s feeding hay to a contented cow or giving belly rubs to a sweet pig, a visit to Charlie’s Acres nonprofit farm animal sanctuary can warm your heart in a way you didn’t realize you needed.

“We often hear from our visitors that stepping onto our sanctuary with over 150 rescued farm animals gives them a chance to take a deep breath and relax,” founder Tracy Vogt said.

The chorus of animal voices make for a lighthearted tranquil afternoon getaway. It’s nearly impossible not to smile as you watch cuddly and sometimes muddy farm animals living their best lives. A visit here is a perfect outing for families in search of memorable moments.

After winding your way around the farm, settle in at one of the picnic tables for a glass of wine or juice and a beautiful vegan cheese and charcuterie platter. The farm animals make for great company. If you’re lucky, you might even meet Charlie the Chihuahua, the farm’s namesake and Vogt’s very first rescue a decade ago.

Charlie’s Acre: 3281 Napa Road, Sonoma; 707-204-0020, charliesacres.org

Piglets relaxing in the evening sun in their enclosure at Charlie's Acres. (Photo by Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Piglets relaxing in the evening sun in their enclosure at Charlie’s Acres. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)
One of the rescued debeaked chickens now living the good life at Charlie’s Acres on Monday, August 1, 2022. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
One of the rescued debeaked chickens now living the good life at Charlie’s Acres. (Robbi Pengelly/Sonoma Index-Tribune)

11 New Sonoma County Restaurants Coming in 2023

Blue cheese meets mozzarella, oregano and basil on a specialty pizza at Acre Pizza in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

The approaching new year means we’re peeking into the future for upcoming restaurant openings. Unsurprisingly, most will be in Healdsburg and the fast-growing restaurant mecca of Sebastopol. Crickets from Santa Rosa. Click through the above gallery to see what’s on the horizon.

Forget the Diet: A Dining Editor’s Food Resolutions for 2023

Mochi donuts, gluten-free summer squash tartlets, left, and Earl Grey polenta olive oil cakes, right, at The Altamont General Store in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)

New year’s resolutions always have been my thing. Sure, I fail every year, miserably, like most of us. But it never dampens my enthusiasm for trying to lose that 10 pounds, exercise more and cut back on processed food.

This isn’t about those kind of resolutions. It’s about setting intentions for how I’d like to eat at home and in restaurants this year. Hopefully, these will inspire you to not worry about diets or restrictions and instead engage with the amazing bounty ripe for the picking in Sonoma County.

Without further ado, here are my 2023 resolutions. What are yours?

Get spicier

When I was growing up, my mom thought Lawry’s salt was an exotic seasoning. The few spices and herbs we did have in the house were so desiccated they turned to dust before imparting any flavor. Sure, dill, rosemary, curry powder and onion salt are pantry workhorses, but it’s harder to incorporate less-familiar flavors — saffron threads, sumac, cardamom — with any consistency.

Try: SouthPaw Seasonings, made in Santa Rosa, offers creative blended seasonings that take the guess work out of cooking with spices (southpawseasonings.com). Sonoma Spice Queen Wind McAlister recently opened a new Petaluma spice shop featuring organic, hand-crafted spice mixes (Oaxacan Mole BBQ Rub, Anju Indian Chai Spice Mix, Moroccan spice mix and Thai Curry), as well as dried herbs and artisanal salts. 9 Fourth St., Petaluma, 707-776-7678, sonomaspicequeen.com

Wind McAlister Owner of Sonoma Spice Queen in her store in Petaluma in 2015. Why not try more spices and herbs in 2023, from the several local companies that make spice blends? (Scott Manchester/PetalumArgus-Courier)
Wind McAlister Owner of Sonoma Spice Queen in her store in Petaluma in 2015. Why not try more spices and herbs in 2023, from the several local companies that make spice blends? (Scott Manchester/PetalumArgus-Courier)
Eat more plant-based meals

Meat-centric meals are a simple standby, but I’ll trade a bland piece of chicken for a big bowl of roasted or wood-fired vegetables any day.

Try: Indian cuisine often features meatless dishes that are full of flavor, and spices. Winter can be a tough time for yummy fresh veggies, but learning to incorporate farm market root vegetables is a goal.

The vegan platter from Ambrosia in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The vegan platter from Ambrosia in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Spend money on good meat

Cheap, industrially raised meat is just that. Locally raised beef, chicken and pork have more flavor, and though they’re also pricier, they’re worth the expense. One option is to get a delivery subscription, like that from Panizzera Meat Co., with meat delivered to your doorstep (3905 Main St., Occidental, panizzerameatco.com). Sonoma County Meat Co. sells locally butchered pork, chicken and beef; so does Victorian Farmstead Meat Co. in Sebastopol.

Return to restaurants

Trying a restaurant in its first weeks or months of operation is exciting (and my job), but seeing its menu evolve is something I rarely have time to do. My goal in 2023 is to return to 30 restaurants I haven’t been to since their opening.

Be more (and less) adventurous

I’ve turned down few dishes in the last 16 years working as a Press Democrat restaurant writer (I had to draw the line at fish eyeballs). But I want to explore even more. The Taco Chronicles I wrote about last year for Sonoma Magazine gave me insight into the complexity of this beloved street food. In 2023, let’s take some deep dives into other international cuisines together.

At the same time, I tend to avoid certain menu items like chicken or steak in favor of more flashy fish or vegetarian dishes. Yet good roasted chicken or perfectly cooked steak can be a revelation.

Order dessert first

Life is short. Make sure you always have room for its sweetness.

Exciting New Hotel Offerings in Sonoma County

The new year is upon us and with it comes a flurry of new offerings at hotels throughout Sonoma County. From new properties to multi-million-dollar remodels, here’s what you need to know about Sonoma County’s hotel scene right now. Click through the above gallery for a peek at the properties.

A new hotel to check into

Originally part of the Best Western Dry Creek Inn, the Villa Toscana building and its 60 accommodations are being updated and rebranded into a separate hotel property, The Lodge at Healdsburg. Guest rooms will feature a king bed, new furniture, wood flooring, a freestanding soaking tub, a fireplace and an assortment of other amenities. The boutique hotel is accepting reservations beginning March 2023. Part of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton, the property is pet-friendly; dogs of all sizes are welcome.

1261 Grove Street, Healdsburg, 1 -800-774-1500, thelah.com

A Deluxe Lodge King guest room at The Lodge at Healdsburg. (Courtesy of The Lodge at Healdsburg)

A new longterm stay option

Santa Rosa’s midcentury motor lodge The Astro is now offering apartment accommodations. Spinster Hospitality, which also owns nearby The Spinster Sisters restaurant, has purchased a neighboring building and converted it into three apartment units with a public courtyard. A pathway connects the new units to The Astro. All of the apartments feature a full kitchen; two apartments offer two bedrooms and one bathroom. The third apartment boasts four bedrooms and two bathrooms. A seven-day minimum stay is required.

323 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa, 707-200-4655, theastro.com

Kayaks are now available for all guests staying at Nick’s Cove in Marshall, making it easier than ever to get out on Tomales Bay. (Courtesy of Kristen Loken)

New hotel amenities

Thanks to charming updates in 2022 to all 12 cottages and the restaurant at Nick’s Cove, there were already plenty of incentives to get a coastal getaway on the calendar. But with 2023 comes the news that all cottage guests now have access to complimentary kayaks. Just tell the innkeeper when you’re ready to get out on Tomales Bay and they’ll take care of the rest.

23240 Highway One, Marshall, 415-663-1033, nickscove.com.

How Will We Eat in 2023? Predictions for the Sonoma County Dining Scene

A robot brings a bento box lunch to a diner at Sushi Rosa in downtown Santa Rosa in 2021. Robots in restaurants are just one form of artificial intelligence showing up in cooking and dining. (Mariah Hanson)

It’s time once again to peer into the crystal ball and see what the new year will bring to our tables.

Part trend watching, part guesswork, our predictions for what we’ll be eating and drinking in 2023 have a lot to do with ideas that have gained traction in 2022, plus shifts in how we view food, dining and sustainability.

In 2022, plant-based foods had a breakout year as meatless eating hit the mainstream. The effects of the pandemic on the workforce continued to plague restaurateurs, too, while luxury dining maintained its foothold and mocktails went prime time.

We’ll see all those trends gain even more momentum as economic and environmental challenges influence supply chains. Here are some of the innovations I predict will continue in 2023, finding new audiences or becoming significant trends for Sonoma County diners.

Food in the metaverse

Robots in the kitchen, fantasy food created by artificial intelligence and TikTok food trends are surging forward for 2023.

Sure, foams, liquid nitrogen and other molecular gastronomy still have a place in the high-end culinary world, but typical diners are looking to their computers for recipe inspiration and international food trends. We sift through stunning images of unreal foods generated by AI robots to whet our appetites.

An Israeli journalist recently used an AI-image generator to create his own version of sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts for Hanukkah) that look like something out of Wonderland. He hopes eventually to create real versions of the doughnuts.

Restaurateurs are using computers to create recipes and track inventory as well as optimize workflow with limited staffing.

TikTok trends like the butter board — a charcuterie board filled with flavored butters and decorated with salts and spices — have become viral must-try activities. Cloud bread, a simple three-ingredient bread, was the top 2022 trend on TikTok with 3.4 billion views.

Nonalcoholic cocktails are stylish and sophisticated at Flora Luna Apothecary. (Phaedra Achor)
Nonalcoholic cocktails are stylish and sophisticated at Flora Luna Apothecary. (Phaedra Achor)

The damp lifestyle

Somewhere between heavy drinking and teetotaling is moderate and mindful drinking. More cocktail lists are including low-alcohol or nonalcoholic drinks that are every bit as creative and crafty as their boozier siblings.

The recent opening of Luma (50 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-772-5037, lumaeatery.com) featured an extensive menu of nonalcoholic mocktails infused with high-octane flavors including the Dreamsicle, made with orange juice, coconut cream and vanilla syrup, and the Green Meanie with pineapple, mint, cilantro, jalapeño and seltzer.

Fake meat is out

But sustainable meat is in. After a surge of initial interest in Beyond and Impossible burgers, the novelty is wearing off and consumers are dubious about the actual benefits of the much-touted meat replacements.

To taste like meat, plant-based ingredients are highly processed, but they aren’t necessarily holding up to the promise of healthier-for-you foods aimed at omnivores.

Sustainably raised local meat is becoming more popular (even as local slaughter facilities struggle), with players like Stemple Creek Ranch in Tomales (stemplecreek.com) or Panizzera Meat Co. (3905 Main St., Occidental, 707-874-9770, panizzerameatco.com).

A variety of sausages are for sale at Panizzera Meat Co. in Occidental in 2021. Sustainably raised local meat is becoming more popular, produced locally by places like Panizzera. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
A variety of sausages are for sale at Panizzera Meat Co. in Occidental in 2021. Sustainably raised local meat is becoming more popular, produced locally by places like Panizzera. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

Eating for the planet

The connection between food and climate is unmistakeable, and people are finally paying attention. In Sonoma County, an estimated 45,500 tons of food waste end up in our landfills, according to the Sonoma County Food Recovery Coalition.

Carbon emissions from transporting food, pesticides and the toll of industrial farming are increasingly changing what we eat. Local and seasonal produce are becoming more important to consumers, especially those looking to meatless diets to ease the nip of inflation.

Climate-conscious brands — some using food-production by-products like vegetable pulp, ugly or bruised fruit and spent grains — are teaching consumers about the massive amounts of commercial waste by making tasty snacks, flours and sweets. Check out The Ugly Company (theugly.company), which transforms bruised fruit into healthy snacks.

Dates, specifically, are having a moment as the sweet but sustainable alternative to honey or sugar. Bee colony collapses and the nutritional void of sugar have consumers looking for a 1-to-1 sweet replacement that tastes good. Locally, there are plenty of sustainably maintained bee colonies and great regional honey, including Hector’s Honey Farm (year-round at local farmers markets).

Kelp is another sustainable product that reduces carbon emission, is nutritious and is easily grown. Watch for more kelp farming and kelp-based foods in 2023. Check out Heidi Herrmann’s Strong Arm Farm products (strongarmfarm.com) for sustainably sourced dried seaweed from Sonoma County.

Dehydrated foods that can be turned into a meal by adding water are both eco-conscious (less weight for transport) and shelf-stable. In 2023, you might see even more sauces, stews and other foods that can be quickly hydrated.

A Mangonada made by Teresita Fernandez at La Michoacana in Sonoma. The drink consists of blended fresh mango with ice, swirled chamoy sauce, topped with mango chunks and tamarind candy, and a tamarind stick. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
A Mangonada made by Teresita Fernandez at La Michoacana in Sonoma. The drink consists of blended fresh mango with ice, swirled chamoy sauce, topped with mango chunks and tamarind candy, and a tamarind stick. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)

Ingredients to watch in 2023

Tamarind: This tart and tasty fruit is popular in Mexico but grows in most tropical climates and is often featured in Indian and Asian cuisine. Try Tamarind BBQ Prawns at Stark’s Steak and Seafood (521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100).

Yaupon: This herbal tea has been used for centuries by indigenous Americans as a stimulant (it has caffeine). The native plant has a citrus flavor that’s easy on the stomach and won’t give you the jitters. (Find it at Whole Foods.)

Avocado oil: A high smoke point and good fatty acids are bringing this oil to the forefront. Most specialty grocers carry it.

Mushrooms: This is the super food of the moment, despite being anything but new. Fungi have a variety of health benefits and are becoming popular as more than a pizza topping. Look for dried mushroom jerky or mushroom teas at Jewels of the Forest (177 Pleasant Hill Ave. N., Sebastopol, 707-326-6308).

Monte Rio’s Village Inn & Restaurant Is Now Boho Manor. Take a Look Inside

A historic hotel in Monte Rio, most recently known as the Village Inn & Restaurant, has changed name and look. Now Boho Manor, the renovated property combines Art Deco style with a laidback West County vibe.

This is not the first time this Russian River hotel has changed name. Originally a summer home, it debuted as the River View Inn in 1906. It rose to fame in 1942, when it appeared in the musical film “Holiday Inn,” starring Bing Crosby and Fred Astaire. (The film won an Academy Award for Best Original Song, Irving Berlin’s “White Christmas.”) The hotel was then known as Holiday Inn for a decade until it was renamed Village Inn & Restaurant in 1952.

70 years later, new owners began renovating the riverside property this July. With a nod to the hotel’s Hollywood past, all 12 rooms were completely remodeled and styled with gold accents and bold colors and patterns. Three rooms were also added to the property.

Monte Rio’s Boho Manor, most recently known as the Village Inn & Restaurant, features 15 rooms, renovated in Art Deco style. (Courtesy of Boho Manor)

“We redesigned all the rooms to the Gatsby theme and added multiple amenities including fire pits, more outdoor seating, lounges and private cabanas for guests and day visitors,” said co-owner and Sonoma County resident Pierre Erasmus.

Outdoor enthusiasts looking to float down the Russian River or explore rural West County can rent kayaks, paddleboards and bicycles at the hotel. Unicorn and swan inflatables are also available for those wanting to create an Instagram-friendly vacation photo.

The storage space turned speakeasy at Boho Manor in Monte Rio. (Courtesy of Boho Manor)

A former storage space has been transformed into the Boho Club, a speakeasy where hotel guests and members of the public can listen to live jazz every Saturday night. The intimate venue seats approximately 30 and offers two sets each evening; the first at 6:30 p.m. and the second at 9 p.m.

Boho Manor’s onsite restaurant is open for dinner four nights a week. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, it serves dishes like Fettuccine Alfredo, chicken wings, New England clam chowder and ribeye steak. The menu is then transformed on Thai Tuesdays, with offerings like Pad Thai Goong (fried rice noodles with shrimp, egg, tofu, green onion, bean sprouts and ground peanuts) and Larb Gai (spicy fried chicken with shallots, onion, mint and cilantro).

A Sunday afternoon tea service is set to debut in January, and a day spa, offering treatments like  Swedish and Thai massage, is in the works for next spring.

Boho Manor, 20822 River Blvd., Monte Rio, 707-865-2304, bohomanor.com. Rates start at $140.

The Best Mineral Hot Springs in Sonoma and Napa Wine Country

The mineral pool at Indian Springs in Calistoga. (Indian Springs)

Mother Nature has a way of providing remedies for all ailments. For thousands of years, people have gathered at geothermal mineral springs to ease their pains, from achy muscles to weary minds. The natural heat and mineral content of the springs have been reported to soothe arthritis pain, improve circulation, relieve certain skin conditions and more.

In the mountainous valleys of the West, where the temperature of the earth increases with depth (known as geothermal gradient), water percolating under the crust can come into contact with hot rocks. This interaction can circulate the heated water to the surface, forming hot springs. California has around 60 hot springs attractions — the most in the U.S. — and Wine Country is an idyllic locale to experience them.

Pack your swimsuits and check out the best mineral hot springs in Sonoma and Napa counties.

Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs

The doctor is in at this Calistoga wellness resort, providing relief and tranquility in its healing mineral waters since 1952. Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs, which received a shoutout in The New York Times’ “U.S. Hot Springs Guide,” contains three geothermal mineral pools — one indoors and two outdoors — lined with conifers and palm trees.

The reimagined spa features eight new mineral baths, plus four mud baths, a steam room and various body wellness treatments, from CBD-infused baths to aromatherapy massages. A therapeutic stay at the resort is complete with outdoor games, fire pits, an on-site Southwestern health food restaurant and a mineral soak in the secluded spa garden.

1507 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-4102, drwilkinson.com

The reimagined Dr. Wilkinson's Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs features eight new mineral baths, plus four mud baths, a steam room and various body wellness treatments, from CBD-infused baths to aromatherapy massages. (Dr. Wilkinson's Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs)
The reimagined Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs features eight new mineral baths, plus four mud baths, a steam room and various body wellness treatments, from CBD-infused baths to aromatherapy massages. (Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs)

Calistoga Motor Lodge & Spa

Retro-inspired with comfort at the forefront, this chic midcentury-modern motel has three geothermal pools and a spacious spa garden for sublime relaxation. Calistoga’s natural hot springs feed into the mineral pools: an 80-84 degree main pool, 90-96 degree wading pool and 100-104 degree spa whirlpool. The site’s MoonAcre Spa has quaint clawfoot tubs to rest easy in geothermal mineral water before detoxing in the steam room or after a much-needed massage.

1880 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-0991, calistogamotorlodgeandspa.com

Calistoga Spa Hot Springs

Four geothermal mineral pools take center stage at this Napa Valley resort, where guest rooms encircle a large outdoor patio dotted with pergolas, palm trees and pools in varying sizes. The impressively sized lap pool, resting at 80 degrees, sits next to a sun deck to relax after an energizing swim. A cozy fire pit lies between the lap pool and a smaller, 100-degree mineral pool, while a kiddie pool is located by the snack bar. For a deeply relaxing soak, there’s the 104-degree jet pool under a covered patio.

1006 Washington St., Calistoga, 707-942-6269, calistogaspa.com

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa

This luxe, Spanish mission-style inn rests atop an ancient thermal mineral spring, which flows over 1,000 feet below the hotel. This spring feeds into Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa’s five geothermal pools, ranging in temperature from 85 to 102 degrees. The main resort pool outside sits near the Water Tower Bar for easy alfresco dining and cocktails, which can be enjoyed in a private poolside cabana.

The Watsu Pool, naturally heated to 98 degrees, is surrounded by palm trees with a trickling water fountain nearby for ultimate tropical relaxation. Then there’s the 92-degree Spa Pool shaded by redwoods and the indoor Roman-style bathhouse, featuring two mineral water soaking pools, an exfoliating shower, halotherapy sauna and an aromatherapy steam room.

100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-938-9000, fairmont.com/sonoma

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa

Golden Haven Hot Springs and Resort

The geothermal aquifer coursing underneath this resort is rich in minerals like sulfur, so you may notice an odor and coloration to the water, but that doesn’t detract from the heavenly accommodations and spa specials. Steam gently rises from the naturally heated mineral spring pool (85-88 degrees) and the two jetted spa pools (98-104 degrees), all of which are sheltered, with skylight windows allowing the sun’s rays to filter in. If you’re seeking a more intimate hot springs soak, spa tub rooms are available — large suites with private mineral baths and electric fireplaces.

1713 Lake St., Calistoga, 707-942-8000, goldenhaven.com

Indian Springs Calistoga

Located in the heart of Calistoga, this upscale resort has been providing rejuvenating comfort in a gorgeous setting for over a century. The hotel features an Olympic-sized mineral pool, one of the largest pools in the state, built in 1913 along with the surrounding Mission Revival-style buildings and bungalows. The pool is ​​fed by natural, on-site thermal geysers and kept between 92 to 102 degrees for an optimal, relaxing soak. An outdoor fireplace cabana lounge awaits poolside, and there’s a separate, smaller Adult Pool for those who want a quieter, more intimate swimming experience, nestled in a lush setting for more privacy.

1712 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-709-8139, indianspringscalistoga.com

Morton’s Warm Springs

This geothermal mineral spring in Glen Ellen had been around for centuries before Ethel and Harold Morton purchased the property in 1946, operating it as Morton’s Warm Springs five years later. Ownership of the springs changed hands over generations, each taking care to preserve the healing waters and surrounding flora while reimagining the space with community in mind. Morton’s has three geothermal mineral spring pools in varying sizes, nestled under a canopy of oaks and sitting just a stone’s throw from Sonoma Creek.

The property also includes geothermal showers, changing rooms, picnic and BBQ areas, and an organic, locally-sourced cafe. After a pool replastering job gone awry, Morton’s had to close its regular 2022 season, but plans to reopen next summer. Applications for season passes – which offer unlimited seasonal use of the pools plus other perks – are available now for the 2023/2024 season.

1651 Warm Springs Road, Glen Ellen, 707-833-5511, mortonswarmsprings.com

Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort

Experience a Tuscan villa-like retreat in Wine Country at Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort, with its world-renowned natural geothermal water and mud bath traditions. An outdoor pool, between 92 to 96 degrees depending on the season, and hot tub (103 degrees) are surrounded by trees and plants to accommodate a calming swim in a lush setting.

The indoor jetted pool, at 100 degrees, is in a quaint tiled room with a sauna and changing rooms. For a more intimate mineral soak, opt for a Splendido suite, complete with a two-person Jacuzzi tub filled with geothermal water next to a homey fireplace. Or book a 55-minute private mineral bath at the spa, which includes a clay mask and sugar scrub.

1300 Washington St., Calistoga, 707-942-2122, romanspahotsprings.com

Solage

This lavish and dreamy Napa Valley retreat is part of of the Auberge Resorts Collection of luxury hotels. During your stay at Solage, it will be difficult to pull yourself away from the spa bathhouse featuring five geothermal mineral water pools in varying temperatures. Taking a dip in the vitality cold plunge pool (60-65 degrees) is an invigorating start to your day, and the jetted saline and mineral pools (102-104 degrees) are optimal ways to relax as body tension melts away. A detox in the eucalyptus steam room is a great way to fully unwind after calming the body and mind in the ambient temperature, magnesium rich pool. With Solage’s hydrotherapy bathing rituals, healing self care is a breeze.

755 Silverado Trail N., Calistoga, 707-226-0800, aubergeresorts.com/solage

UpValley Inn & Hot Springs

After a day of wine tasting, downtown shopping and cycling nearby trails, settle down in this boutique Calistoga hotel with an on-site well feeding geothermal heated mineral water into its swimming pool and whirlpool. The pool and hot tub contains 100% natural Calistoga mineral water, so it will have a greenish yellow hue due to the high mineral content, which leaves you feeling relaxed and reinvigorated. Alternate dips in the pool with short rests in the dry sauna or steam room for a soothing, restorative stay.

1865 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-9400, upvalleyinn.com

3 Favorite Sonoma Stores for Vintage Furniture

There are so many reasons to shop for secondhand furniture, starting with the environmental benefits of reusing goods.

Then there are the style rewards, like the originality of a vintage piece and the way it lets you envision a past era of design. Mixing older pieces into a newer decor can make a room more interesting. And then there’s durability — “they don’t make ’em like they used to.” The couches, sofas and woodwork of today’s fast furniture industry don’t hold up, literally, in comparison to many of their predecessors available in vintage stores.

Sonoma County has a vibrant vintage and antiques shopping scene. Here’s a small sampling of favorite shops to visit.

French Salvage Antiques La Maison

Laurie MacDuff sources most of the inventory for French Salvage Antiques La Maison from flea markets and estate sales in France’s Loire Valley. Her store on Bodega Avenue, just outside downtown Petaluma, is painted in dramatic charcoal color and is draped year-round in a magnolia garland that has turned a rich amber color. The windows offer a glimpse of the decorative pieces inside.

Unlike most antique or secondhand stores, the inventory here is carefully curated and styled. In MacDuff’s hands, a simple pot of herbs gets new life on an antique marble-topped side table. Vintage vessels or baskets filled with flowers become showstopping decor atop grand tables, armoires and sideboards.

In addition to furniture, the store offers new fabrics from France, linens from Italy, acrylic trays by Gien and Rigaud scented candles. Regular visits to French Salvage Antiques La Maison will offer plenty of style inspiration for your home.

307 Bodega Ave., Petaluma, 415-407-2816, frenchsalvageantiques.com

Retrospect

All sorts of midcentury marvels are on display at vintage store Retrospect in Sebastopol.

The store specializes in the clean-line, low-profile styles of the ’50s and ’60s. You’ll find lots of teak, sofas and chairs (like the streamlined-yet-comfortable penguin lounge chair) here, as well as accessories like lamps, canisters and mugs. To finish that midcentury look, Retrospect proprietor and artist Gregory Odle offers his own modern mixed media paintings and vinyl records he converts into good-looking clocks.

104 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol, 707-291-7058

Sonoma Reclaimed Furniture and Consignment

This furniture and consignment store is one of several excellent boutiques in the Sonoma Antique Mall on Eighth Street in Sonoma. In addition to a rotation of eclectic furniture — from a fringed sofa to flower-print swivel chairs — there’s an upholstery studio on site.

Dick Belanger has decades of experience and keen design abilities to refurbish pieces. On the sales floor you might also find an antique chair or vintage bench that he and his apprentice have transformed into wonderfully refreshed pieces.

Sonoma Reclaimed Furniture & Consignment, Workshop 19618, Eighth St. E., SonomaReclaimed.com, @SonomaReclaimed and upholsteryworkshop1972.com

Luma Bar and Eatery Opens in Petaluma

Exterior at Luma Bar & Eatery in Petaluma. (wool + son)

The long-awaited plant-focused restaurant from Shuckery owner Jazmine Lalicker has debuted on the Petaluma waterfront. Luma Bar and Eatery officially opened Sunday, Dec. 18.

Filled with soft organic colors, modern furnishings and a spectacular new bar, the 3,600-square-foot space, including a heated patio overlooking the river, is unrecognizable from its former incarnation as Dempsey’s bar.

Sustainability is a pillar of the new restaurant. The primarily meatless menu of sustainably sourced dishes is overseen by chef and (maybe a little ironically) butcher Travis Day, who launched Thistle Meats in Petaluma.

Cocktails have a similar eco-aware mission. Alfie Turnshek heads a well-thought-out bar program with a refreshingly large selection of low- or no-alcohol concoctions with fresh herbs, super juices and syrups. Cocktails ($16) use citrus as an accent rather than a focus due to the high environmental impact of transporting out-of-season fruit, Lalicker said.

Instead, drinks like the Changeling include aquavit, gin with a pineapple-vanilla infusion, Icelandic yogurt, lemon and fennel liqueur that’s remarkably refreshing yet creamy and warming. A new favorite is the Hard Aport with bourbon, rye, port wine, espresso and orange oil.

The main menu is broken into sections with snacks ($8 to $10), appetizers ($14 to $20), mains ($20 to $28) and sweets ($12). Protein, including Liberty Duck rillette ($10) and Stemple Creek Brisket ($12), are sides you can add to main courses or eat separately.

Lalicker and Day have taken a forward-thinking approach to sourcing and presentation, using thin 4-ounce cuts of Stemple Creek’s carbon-neutral beef or duck wings to make the rillette rather than the more common duck breast.

“We’re working to move cuts of meat that typically wouldn’t sell, so they’re not going to waste. Everyone buys duck breast, but not the wings,” Lalicker said. The wings are slow-cooked in fat and seasonings, shredded and mixed with fat in jars or ramekins. The result is a dense spread of rich meat.

There are already several fan favorites on the menu, including the Braised Greens and Beans ($24) with charred cabbage, Swiss chard and beans in a savory broth or the pillowy gnocchi ($20) with roasted sunchokes and mushrooms.

“We want people to understand that we are here to listen to them. We want to make this a place you want to go. I think Petaluma is ready for this,” Lalicker said.

The restaurant is open 5 to 10 p.m. daily. Reservations are suggested. 50 E. Washington St., Petaluma, 707-772-5037, lumaeatery.com