Travel + Leisure recently highlighted 10 of California’s most underrated destinations, steering readers away from the tourist magnets that dominate travel itineraries. Among the hidden corners of the Golden State, the Russian River Valley stood out for its rustic charm, redwood forests and quintessential summer pleasures.

Los Angeles writer Chelsee Lowe, who grew up in California’s Central Valley, recalled childhood visits to Healdsburg, where her grandmother lived near the town plaza.

“We would shop for the latest installment of ‘The Baby-Sitters Club’ series at Toyon Books, which is now a Copperfield’s,” Lowe wrote.

As an adult, she found herself returning to the Russian River Valley, drawn by its towering redwoods, leisurely river floats and vineyard-lined landscapes.

Some destinations here have already earned national acclaim, from Healdsburg’s Michelin-starred SingleThread to Guerneville’s upscale Dawn Ranch. But beyond the headline attractions, the valley offers plenty of quieter pleasures.

Here’s how to spend a memorable getaway in the Russian River Valley.

Where to stay

At the northern end of the valley in Healdsburg, h2hotel (219 Healdsburg Ave.) is among the region’s most environmentally conscious accommodations, holding LEED Gold certification from the U.S. Green Building Council. Guest rooms feature Egyptian cotton linens, natural bath products, ergonomic workspaces and glass carafes that can be filled at complimentary water stations on every floor. Visitors can also take advantage of free Sunday morning Ashtanga yoga classes and complimentary three-hour bicycle rentals for exploring town.

For travelers who prefer to stay directly on the river, Johnson’s Beach in Guerneville (16215 and 16217 First St.) offers cabins and glamping tents steps from the water. During the busy summer season, guests can retreat from the crowds to accommodations equipped with luxury linens, Malin + Goetz bath products, kitchenettes, fire pits and picnic tables. The property is open from April through November.

Where to play

No visit to the Russian River is complete without time on the water. Visitors can bring their own flotation devices, from inner tubes to inflatable mattresses, or rent kayaks, canoes and other watercraft from Johnson’s Beach, King’s Sport & Tackle in Guerneville, Burke’s Canoe Trips in Forestville and Rivers Edge Kayak & Canoe Trips in Healdsburg.

Summer also brings a full calendar of community events. In the “Vacation Wonderland” of Monte Rio, the annual Big Rocky Games (July 3-4) feature family-friendly competitions including a rubber duck race, water balloon toss, Hula-Hoop contest and potato sack race. Other seasonal highlights include the free RioFest music festival (June 20) and the 115th annual Monte Rio Variety Show (July 23), both held at the historic Monte Rio Amphitheater (9925 Main St.).

For a quieter afternoon, browse one of the area’s independent bookstores. Levin & Company Books in Healdsburg (306 Center St.) has served readers for more than three decades with thousands of titles, alongside a curated selection of CDs and vinyl records and an upstairs art gallery. Russian River Books & Letters in Guerneville (14045 Armstrong Woods Road) stocks an extensive collection of new and used books and sits next door to Coffee Bazaar, making it an ideal spot to settle in with a novel and a cup of coffee or tea.

Where to eat

The Russian River Valley’s dining scene ranges from nationally recognized restaurants to local favorites known mostly to residents.

One standout is Canneti Roadhouse Italiana in Forestville (6675 Front St.), where housemade pastas and rustic Italian cooking have earned a devoted following. Signature dishes include the Tonno del Chianti and a rotating Pasta Trio featuring the chef’s selection of freshly made pasta.

For rib-sticking soul food and barbecue, Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint in Guerneville (16632 Highway 116) serves Southern staples including fried catfish, shrimp po’boys, Cajun chicken and sweet potato pie.

And few meals feel more fitting after a day on the river than a burger. Healdsburger (48 Healdsburg Ave.), just a stone’s throw from the river, offers specialty burgers alongside sandwiches, salads, hot dogs, ice cream and milkshakes.

Where to sip

With dozens of wineries scattered throughout the Russian River Valley AVA, narrowing down the options can be difficult.

North of Sebastopol, Kobler Estate (4630 Gravenstein Highway N.) pours a Bacigalupi Vineyards Chardonnay marked by notes of citrus zest and green apple. It pairs naturally with a slice of pie from nearby Mom’s Apple Pie.

South of Healdsburg, Copain Wines (7800 Eastside Road) offers sweeping hilltop views of vineyards and valley landscapes alongside its cool-climate wines. Nearby Riverfront Regional Park provides an easy opportunity for a post-tasting stroll around the lake.

Need more recommendations for a perfect weekend escape to the Russian River Valley? We got you covered.

The post Russian River Valley Named Among Most Underrated Destinations in California appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

With a legendary coastline stretching 840 miles, California has long been the sunny home for beachcombers and surfer dudes. But beaches don’t always lie on the coast, as Travel + Leisure reminds in a recent article listing nine of the best beach towns in California, where Guerneville ranked No. 3.

“The forested hamlet of Guerneville — a longtime haunt for hippies, artists, and the LGBTQ+ community — is located on the Russian River, a slow-moving waterway intermittently lined with beaches,” the Travel + Leisure article stated.

Guerneville’s varied storefronts reflect the layers of the region’s recent history, from timber town to hippie haven to gay-friendly retreat and upscale weekend getaway. Close to the beach and with a downtown full of great places to eat and drink, it is a perfect spot to relax and soak up the sun on hot days.

Where to play

Johnson’s Beach: The popular Russian River spot offers paddleboarding, picnicking, tubing, and swimming. The beach has a snack bar with refreshments and offers camping or vintage cabins. King’s Sport & Tackle (16258 Main St.) can help you get set up with water sports gear and offer advice. 16215 and 16217 First St., johnsonsbeach.com

Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve: Quiet trails lead through 800 acres of old-growth redwoods just a short distance from downtown. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov

Where to eat

Piknik Town Market: Though Big Bottom Market was sold and reopened in 2023 as Piknik Town Market, new owner Margaret van der Veen assured fans that the Market’s world-famous biscuits are still baked daily. The spot also offers salads, sandwiches, gourmet groceries and picnic provisions, including to-go picnic boxes. 16228 Main St., 707-604-7295, pikniktownmarket.com

Boon Eat + Drink: Chef Crista Luedtke of Food Network fame lives in Guerneville and her restaurant anchors the downtown strip. Boon is a classic California farm-to-table bistro, with locally sourced dishes such as beet salad with goat cheese, mac and cheese with Mycopia mushrooms, Niman Ranch burger on brioche and the fan-favorite polenta lasagna on a bed of rainbow chard. 16248 Main St., 707-869-0780, eatatboon.com

Guerneville Taco Truck: It may seem odd to claim that a Safeway parking lot is home to the best Mexican food in Guerneville, but most locals would agree. A mainstay for over three decades, the Guerneville Taco Truck offers the best tacos, tortas and burritos this side of the Russian River. 16405 Highway 116, 707-869-1821, guernevilletacotruck.com

Where to sip

Stumptown Brewery: The main draw here is an expansive deck overlooking the river, with kayakers and tubers floating by. Spend the afternoon there with a beer sampler or the seasonal Donkey Punch, a refreshing hoppy lager. 15045 River Road, 707-869-0705, stumptown.com

Rainbow Cattle Co.: “The Rainbow,” as locals call it, has been a Guerneville fixture since the late 1970s. The LGBTQ+ community gathering spot is one of only a few Sonoma County bars that remain open until early morning hours, closing at 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. 16220 Main St., 707-869-0206, queersteer.com

Korbel Champagne Cellars: As the only Champagne producer in the Bay Area since the late 1800s, Korbel has earned a reputation in the county for its old-world charm and first-class bubbles. The winery’s Champagne even made it to the table at former president Barack Obama’s inaugural luncheon, a Korbel tradition for presidential inaugurations dating back to the 1980s. Korbel offers free walking tours of its historic museum and cellars, which include a complimentary Champagne tasting. 13250 River Road, 707-824-7000, korbel.com

Where to stay

AutoCamp Sonoma: Guests stay in custom Airstream trailers or luxury tent cabins at this mid-century modern glamping destination. 14120 Old Cazadero Road, 855-942-0792, autocamp.com/location/sonoma

Dawn Ranch: This classic river resort reopened after a luxury revamp in 2023 and includes 86 lodging accommodations, a world-class restaurant and rejuvenating spa facilities. 16467 Highway 116, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com

Maci Martell contributed to this article.

The post 10 Best Things to Do in Guerneville appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Connections are intentional for husband-and-wife duo Chris Schultz and Anne Driscoll.

In 2021, the Healdsburg residents founded Cosmico, an independent music festival designed to introduce music lovers to up-and-coming bands across multiple genres. They also run the nonprofit Launch Pad Foundation, which is dedicated to supporting people who build community through creativity and collaboration.

Most recently, Schultz published “Analog: How To Love Your Work, and Not Wait for Retirement To Live the Good Life,” a book about what it means to live and work with intention, a theme Schultz says is a throughline in the couple’s collaborations.

“Whether it’s a festival, a book, or a local project, our mission is the same: help people find their path, trust their calling, and choose themselves,” he says.

This year’s Cosmico — now called Analog Reunion — is scheduled for May 15-17, and Schultz and Driscoll have already announced early additions to the weekend lineup, including folk rock artist Alex Amen and soul rocker Maggie Koerner. Tickets on sale now at cosmi.co.

The Cosmico difference

Chris: A lot of festivals aim for the same things: the biggest bands, the most commercial success. We are, by design, smaller and more independent. We are more discovery-focused; people trust us to introduce them to new music. We work hard to book awesome bands you’ve never heard of. We want you to be able to see a show at Cosmico, then see the same band years later and say, ‘I saw them at Cosmico first.’ That’s the goal.

Changing venues

Anne: We are moving locations. Last year we had the festival at Dawn Ranch in Guerneville. This year we’re bringing it back to Healdsburg, to Wildhaven Sonoma, a glamping spot on the Russian River on the north end of town. We’re also calling it a reunion this year, because of the idea that people keep coming back to it.

All about connection

Chris: The book is an effort to reflect on the things in life that have been important to me. It’s about putting your hands on the wheel of your life. Finding joy through analog experiences is the way I describe it. It’s really about connection. Connecting with people in the community; being connected with your family. The title also references the disconnection we feel in our digital lives. Ultimately, I think the path to meaning is through service and helping people. That’s a big part of what we try to do with Cosmico.

Calling Sonoma County home

Anne: We are so lucky to live somewhere where people are creative and constantly thinking of ways to celebrate the incredible resources we have at our fingertips. Between the two of us, we’ve seen a lot of the world. There’s no place quite like this one.

The post ‘Analog Reunion’ Bringing Indie Music, Connection to the Russian River appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

West county has a distinct feel all its own. Historically known as a “hippie” enclave, the region is better known today as a creative hub for artists, musicians, makers, chefs, and winemakers. It’s also famous for the beautiful Russian River Valley wine region, which produces legendary Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.

Taste

Auteur Wines

The winery’s new Russian River tasting room is a stunner. Set near Forestville, the contemporary space takes full advantage of its hillside setting, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a sheltered terrace for admiring the vineyard and redwood views. The design is as inviting as it is awe-inspiring.

“When the architect asked me how I wanted the new tasting room to feel, I told him ‘a warm embrace,’” says Laura Juhasz, who co-owns the winery with her winemaker husband, Kenneth, and two other couples who are investment partners. “We don’t want people to feel intimidated here. Wine is supposed to calm your heart, calm your mind, and connect you to others.”

Auteur’s lineup of minimalist wines highlights expressive single-vineyard and appellation-specific Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. If you love a mystery, book the “Be Here Now” tasting — coming soon — an exploration of wines presented without any information about their background. Reservations recommended. 10520 Wohler Road, Healdsburg. 707-766-0222, auteurwines.com

Horse & Plow

This small, family-owned winery just outside Sebastopol is known for its natural wines and bright ciders made from organic apples. The setting is wonderfully bucolic, with a sweet barn for indoor tastings and a spacious outdoor area set amid shady oaks, apple trees, and a bountiful vegetable garden. Choose from offerings by the flight, glass, or bottle, then settle in with a cheese or charcuterie plate and feel the stresses of everyday life melt away. On Sundays, there’s live music from 2-4 p.m. Reservations recommended. 1272 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. 707-827-3486, horseandplow.com

Ryme Cellars

Rustic Ryme Cellars is an off-the-beaten-path haven behind Forestville’s main drag. Taste minimal-intervention wines made from varieties like Aglianico. Reservations required. 6450 First St., Forestville. 707-820-8121, rymecellars.com

Porter-Bass Vineyard & Winery

At Porter-Bass Vineyard & Winery, set on a biodynamic vineyard estate surrounded by redwood and fir forests, sample cool-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel under a walnut tree in front of the owners’ home. Reservations required. 11750 Mays Canyon Road, Guerneville. 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com

Joseph Swan Vineyards

O.G. Joseph Swan Vineyards is known for its beautifully balanced old vine Zinfandel and Pinot Noir, along with a cool lineup of wines like Tannat, Valdiguie, and skin-contact whites. Tastings happen at an outdoor table overlooking the estate vineyard or among the barrels. 2916 Laguna Road, Forestville. 707-573-3747, swanwinery.com

Dine

Wild Poppy Cafe & Market

This roadside café is a hidden gem for breakfast, brunch, and lunch. The creekside patio is the place to be, with its weathered wooden tables and relaxed ambiance. The frequently refreshed menu emphasizes organic, biodynamic, and regeneratively farmed ingredients grown locally — with lots of exciting vegetarian and vegan options. 9890 Bodega Hwy., Sebastopol. 707-503-6332, thewildpoppycafe.com

Bazaar Sonoma

What happens when a veteran of Healdsburg’s SingleThread opens a Chinese restaurant in Forestville? Something both unexpected and delicious. Known locally as BaSo, this compact café serves boldly flavored traditional fare without falling into the all-too-common trap of Americanization. The pork dumplings are divine, and don’t skip the sizzling seasonal fish. 6566 Front St., Forestville. 707-614-8056, bazaar-sonoma.com

Editor’s note: A Sept. 22 fire gutted Bazaar Sonoma, leaving the Forestville restaurant temporarily closed. However, the team is planning several local pop-ups as The Matriarch. Learn more and find the pop-up schedule at bazaar-sonoma.com.

Underwood Bar & Bistro

In blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Graton, this neighborhood favorite combines Paris bistro ambiance with — surprise! — flavorful Thai-inspired dishes. For 25 years, Underwood has been the place to spot local winemakers stopping in for a post-harvest beer paired with everything from steak frites and French onion soup to Thai lettuce cups. 9113 Graton Road, Graton. 707-823-7023, underwoodgraton.com 

Explore

Before heading home, hit the Sunday Sebastopol Farmers Market and soak up the community vibe while stocking up on farm-fresh produce. 6908 Weeks Way, Sebastopol. 707-861-1147, sebastopolfarmersmarket.org

Zipline through the redwoods on a Night Flight zipline tour and wonder at the stars from tree-top platforms. Sonoma Canopy Tours, 6250 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental. 888-494-7868, sonomacanopytours.com

Insider Tip

Book an orchard hike

Sample a delicious array of artisan olive oils, vinegars, and apple products at Gold Ridge Organic Farms. 3387 Canfield Road, Sebastopol. 707-823-3110, goldridgeorganicfarms.com

Grab a post-dinner drink

Lively, plant-filled Fern Bar at The Barlow is open until 10 p.m. on weekends. 6780 Depot St., Suite 120, Sebastopol. 707-861-9603, fernbar.com

The post Spend A Perfect Wine Weekend in the Russian River Valley appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

The pace of the Russian River sets the leisurely tempo of west Sonoma County life. In this laid-back enclave of eccentric cabins, nestled among redwoods and fir-covered hills, you are bound to find your own rhythm.

Float down the river with us to discover where to stay, play and dine in relaxed Russian River style.

Getting Here

Access the Russian River area by flying into Santa Rosa’s Charles M. Schulz airport, or drive up Highway 1 from San Francisco. If you’re driving, make a few stops along the coast — Stinson Beach, Point Reyes National Seashore and Tomales Bay. Do some Birds’ watching in Bodega, then ride up the scenic Bohemian Highway.

Settle In

Make Guerneville the jumping off point for your Russian River expedition — the longtime bohemian refuge of Forestville is just a stone’s throw away, as is the “vacation wonderland” of Monte Rio. Guerneville’s comforting early morning fog, the rolling river and its proximity to the Sonoma Coast make the place a dream destination for those wanting to kick back and get pleasantly lost. Guerneville’s colorful collection of residents, its eclectic variation of visitors and varied array of storefronts reflect the archaeology of the town’s recent history: timber town, then hippie haven, then gay retreat and hip getaway.

Camp in style at AutoCamp, Guerneville

Promising “no-fuss” hospitality, AutoCamp’s mid-century modern glamping site features 24 custom Airstream trailers, 10 fully equipped luxury tents and a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired pavilion. Guests can enjoy art installations, bocce courts and other outdoor games, along with specialty bikes, canoes and tennis. 14120 Old Cazadero Road, 855-942-0792, autocamp.com

Stay in an eco-friendly oasis at Boon Hotel + Spa, Guerneville

Named after owner Crista Luedtke’s canine companion, Boon offers quintessential Guerneville lodgings — a tasteful blend of old and new. The hotel grounds once housed the local mercury miner community; the hotel has gone through a series of transformations since the 1970s. In 2008, Luedtke created an eco-friendly oasis of minimalist modern cottages that promises to “unclutter your mind and allow your body to rest.” 14711 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com

Sleep in luxury at Dawn Ranch, Guerneville

This classic river resort reopened Memorial Day weekend after a luxury revamp in 2023, and in the spring of 2024 it was named in Esquire’s “41 Best New Hotels in North America and Europe.” 16467 Highway 116, 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com

Get five-star treatment with a family feel at Farmhouse Inn, Forestville

Run by brother-and-sister team Catherine and Joe Bartolomei, the Farmhouse Inn offers all the warmth and hospitality of a family-owned B&B while providing the high-end services and amenities of a five-star luxury hotel. Located just 8 miles east of Guerneville, the inn houses a Michelin-starred restaurant and offers a variety of accommodations, from high-ceiling barn rooms to bungalow-style heritage rooms. 7871 River Road, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com

Camp riverside at Johnson’s Beach, Guerneville

Johnson’s Beach, a Sonoma County summer destination for nearly 100 years, offers a variety of rental accommodations: a four-bedroom, two-bathroom main lodge overlooking the river, or rustic cabins dating to the 1920s. “Urban camping” at the beach is another popular option. 16215 and 16217 First St., johnsonsbeach.com

Relax on the Russian River

If your idea of a river experience is strenuous rafting, you’ve come to the wrong place. The Russian River is best enjoyed by lying lazily back in a canoe, kayak or float tube. Bring a beach blanket and stop to savor the sun at one of the many hidden beaches along the river. For rental river requirements and recommendations, visit Burke’s Canoe Trips in Forestville or King’s Sport and Tackle in Guerneville. Beaches along the Russian River, in west Sonoma County, include Steelhead Beach Regional Park in Forestville, Forestville River Access (Mom’s Beach) and Sunset Beach River Park. In Healdsburg, the Veterans Memorial Beach has lifeguards on duty and picnic areas.

Browse Guerneville Main Street stores (and side streets)

Rustic, renovated and retro storefronts line Guerneville’s Main Street and make it an eclectic shopper’s paradise. Start with a visit to Sonoma Nesting Company to pick up some local treasures for your home, then head on to dime store institution 5 & 10 for cheaper “collectibles” and Second’s First for some vintage clothing.

Try famous biscuits at Piknik Town Market, Guerneville

Though Big Bottom Market was sold in 2023 and reopened as Piknik Town Market, new owner Margaret van der Veen assured fans that the Market’s world-famous biscuits are still baked daily. The spot also offers salads, sandwiches, gourmet groceries and picnic provisions, including to-go picnic boxes. 16228 Main St., 707-604-7295, pikniktownmarket.com

Enjoy homemade pastries on the patio at Gold Coast Coffee, Duncans Mills

This cozy coffee shop is located in the historic hamlet Duncans Mills (once a stop on the Northwestern Pacific Railroad to Sausalito). Stop in for a cup of their finest house-roasted coffee and pair it with a homemade pastry baked in the cafe’s wood-fired oven (which also bakes great tasting pizza!) and then enjoy breakfast on the deck. 25377 Steelhead Blvd., 707-865-1441, goldcoastcoffeebakery.com

Breakfast at hidden gem Cape Fear Cafe, Duncans Mills

Cape Fear Cafe in Duncans Mills is one of “the best hidden gem restaurants” in Sonoma County, according to dining editor Heather Irwin. If you’re craving some California cuisine with southern flair for breakfast, we recommend pairing the Charleston Benedict — grilled shrimp and prosciutto, two poached eggs and lemon hollandaise — with a classic mimosa. 25191 Main St., 707-865-9246, capefearcafe.com

Enjoy bistro fare, California-style, at Boon Eat + Drink, Guerneville

A year after opening Boon Hotel + Spa, Crista Luedtke launched this Guerneville bistro which pairs modern California cuisine with Boon’s pared-down decor and minimalist philosophy. The proof of her success can be seen in the lines that form on the sidewalk outside the restaurant. 16248 Main St., 707-869-0780, eatatboon.com

Order cannolis at Canneti Roadhouse Italiana, Forestville

Canneti chef Francesco Torre grew up sampling his grandma Fina’s cooking in the Tuscan coastal town of Massa. Like Grandma Fina, Torres puts a lot of love into every plate he prepares; the locally sourced menu showcases food akin to the rustic variety that he enjoyed in his childhood.

Named after Via de Canetti, a winding rural road in Torres’ childhood Tuscany, Canneti’s decor is roadhouse simple, almost industrial: rough brick walls, farmhouse wood tables and chairs. The ambiance is warm and welcoming, and there’s patio in the back for a relaxed meal beneath the trees. 6675 Front St., 707-887-2232, cannetiroadhouse.com

Go foraging through the Forestville Farmers Market

From spring through summer, between 4:30-7:30 p.m. every Tuesday, the Forestville Farmers Market livens up the sleepy downtown with local produce, artisanal products, baked goods, arts, crafts, drinks, live music and dancing. A nice place to relax and recharge after a day on the river, sipping on a local brew under the oak trees. 6990 Front St., forestvillechamber.org/forestville-farmers-market

Have wine and ice cream at Guerneville Bank Club

The restored Guerneville Bank Club (circa 1921) offers an interesting mix of art shows, local wines, housemade ice cream and home accessories. The ice cream is the work of Nimble & Finn’s — flavors include lavender honeycomb and Meyer lemon olive oil with chocolate chunks. 16290 Main St., 707-666-9411, guernevillebankclub.com

Sip on a cold one at Stumptown, Guerneville

The real gem at this Guerneville brewery, aside from the great beers, is the expansive outdoor deck, overlooking the Russian River. Spend a sunny Saturday sipping on a beer sampler or the “Donkey Punch,” a refreshing hoppy lager with a kick and a thick body. A great pit stop on the way to the river or the coast. Plus, they have a wood-fired pizza oven and host trivia nights every Wednesday. 15045 River Road, 707-869-0705, stumptown.com, instagram.com/stumptownbrewery

Find free tours and tastings at Korbel Champagne Cellars, Guerneville

As the only Champagne producers in the Bay Area since the late 1800s, Korbel has earned a reputation in the county for its old world charm and first-class bubbles. The winery’s Champagne even made it to the table at former president Barack Obama’s inaugural luncheon, a Korbel tradition for presidential inaugurations dating back to the 1980s. Korbel offers free walking tours of its historic museum and cellars, which includes a complimentary Champagne tasting. 13250 River Road, 707-824-7000, korbel.com

Stay up late with the locals at Rainbow Cattle Co., Guerneville

“The Rainbow,” as locals call it, has been a Guerneville fixture since the late 1970s. The LGBTQ+ community gathering spot is one of only a few Sonoma County bars that remain open until early morning hours, closing at 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. 16220 Main St., 707-869-0206, queersteer.com

Sip some Russian River Valley wine

The Russian River Valley is known for cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — favorite wineries to visit include Gary Farrell Winery in Healdsburg, Ryme Cellars in Forestville (actress Elizabeth Olsen’s favorite spot) and Hartford Family Winery, also in Forestville. Here are five more must-visit wineries between Forestville and Sebastopol.

Stroll among gentle giants, Guerneville

Avoid Muir Woods’ Instagramming tourists by experiencing the majesty of the redwoods in Armstrong Woods’ relatively remote location near Guerneville. Magnificent, 1,200-year-old Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as coastal redwoods, tower in a way that makes humans feel very small and very serene. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov

Don your Stetson at the River Rodeo, Duncans Mills

Watch cowboys wrestling calfs and riding bulls at the top notch professional Russian River Rodeo held in Duncan Mills every June. 23450 Moscow Road

See natural pieces of art at Goat Rock State Beach, Jenner

Just south of the point where the Russian River meets the Pacific, this Sonoma Coast gem offers the kind of scenic beauty that only the powerful forces of nature can create: wild waves crashing against promontories have carved the rocky coastal landscape into abstract shapes and forms. Among these rugged structures are natural arches formed by the force of water eroding weaker strata of the rock formations. Goat Rock Road off Highway 1. 707-875-3483, parks.ca.gov

Watch the sunset at River’s End, Jenner

Finally, as a romantic finale to your Russian River retreat, dine in style where the river meets the sea and watch the sun set on the Western horizon. The website URL for River’s End restaurant and inn is, very suitably, ilovesunsets.com. 11048 Highway 1, 707-865-2484 

The post Favorite Things To Do by the Russian River appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

House hunter Joanna Grawunder’s first impression of the property at the base of Healdsburg’s Fitch Mountain was horror and a hard no. As she and husband Mark Jensen were scouting out weekend home possibilities along the Russian River in 2012, she recoiled as they approached one listing.

“I was screaming at him. Don’t stop! Just go!” she recalls. But her husband who had a hunch there might be more than meets the eye, insisted they have a look.

“As soon as we walked in — and we made sure not to fall through the floor or step on a rat — we saw this. It was so amazing,” she says, looking out from her deck at a gobsmacking stretch of the river where the water at this time of year pools calmly against a palisade of trees in the early evening sun.

That view is what sold them on a ramshackle house with numerous funky additions, that had been abandoned for two years. Pretty much anything that could be wrong with it was, from septic problems to termites.

“Being two crazy architects, we thought, nice view, nice location. We can solve all these problems,” says Jensen. He was propelled by fond memories of spending hot summer days on the Russian River with his dad, who moved to Healdsburg in the 1970s and still lives on the other side of the mountain.

When the couple went to county offices to research the property, they discovered it had a long list of violations. “They told us 20 other people did the same thing we did,” Jensen says, “and just ran for the hills.”

But Jensen knew the location was a jewel. While they never would be allowed to build a new house so close to the river, they could create something new on the foundation and footprint of the old Depression-era summer cabin. It took two years getting permits and two more years to build before they were finally able to move in eight years ago.

The effort and wait were worth it. The modest multilevel house made of simple board-and-batten siding and a concrete base evokes a farm building in the rural landscape and has proven remarkably comfortable despite — or perhaps because of — its simplicity. They love that it’s only a 2-mile walk to the Healdsburg Plaza and they’ve built up a solid network of friends, including one with a farm who frequently has amazing produce to share since they have little space to grow more than tomatoes, some espaliered apples, and some citrus trees.

“This was intended as our weekend getaway. But then, common story, Covid hit and we moved here full time and just got so enamored with the lifestyle we really didn’t ever want to leave,” says Jensen, who heads his own firm, Jensen Architects, in the city. “We still do have a small loft in San Francisco where I stay when I go in to work a couple of days a week, but the majority of the time we’re here.”

While little of the original structure remains, they were charmed by the steep, timeworn concrete steps leading down to the original dock. What they hadn’t noticed at first was the 20th-century Boho art embedded in the walls that terraced down to the river — decorative abalone shells, mirror and tile fragments, glass bottles, and small niches perfect for candles on a warm night.

It was as thrilling as a major archaeological discovery when they unearthed it beneath a thick layer of sand.

“We didn’t even know we had those terraces,” Jensen says. “Once we started cleaning up, we always say it was like finding Pompeii.”

Digging sand and silt out of the terraces where they often hang out — closer to the river and the amusing parade of people in their floaties, inner tubes, kayaks, and canoes — has become an annual spring ritual. “We call it shovel camp. It’s fun,” Grawunder says.

The house is simple and open, with a winding staircase leading up to a bedroom loft where, in winter, the sunrise from a saddle in the hills is their alarm clock. Grawunder marvels at how, from this high perch, she can actually look down on great blue herons, bald eagles, and osprey patrolling the river.

Most of the casual furnishings are indoor-outdoor, so they can be moved outside for entertaining. Although the whole house is only 1,100 square feet, a wide deck with wing walls on either side and a retractable awning extends the living space in summer. The mini kitchen is confined to just one wall but sufficient for cooking, even for the frequent guests who, in summer, often arrive by kayak and canoe.

But there are a few Fabergé-quality Easter eggs embedded within the simple decor that speak to the couple’s deep appreciation for modern art and design. Their dining table, with a playful grid pattern, is a focal piece, created by Superstudio, a famed Italian design collective founded in the 1960s by Adolfo Natalini and Christiano Toraldo di Francia, under whom Grawunder once studied and worked.

She and Jensen met while studying abroad in Florence during their last year of architectural courses at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo. Grawunder stayed in Italy for many years — she still maintains a tiny apartment in Milan where she continues to work with galleries — and moved into artistic design, from limited edition furnishings to modern lighting and color installations. One of her pieces, a striking acrylic mirror light, looks like a window high on the white walls of the open concept living space.

The pair love observing all the seasons from their snug nest. In winter they can sit in an alcove cantilevered off the living room and watch the rushing water.

But summer is when the river slows and the living is easy. They frequently entertain, starting out at the dock with drinks and moving up to the covered deck for dinner.

“But on warm evenings, I end up bringing the dinner down there,” Grawunder says. A rope with a basket dubbed the “Italian grandmother elevator” helps transport pasta and pizza to guests below. There is a casual camaraderie along the river, where the waterway is a country road linking neighbors.

“It’s not like it’s hot every night. But when it stays warm in the evening, it’s great to be down there,” Jensen says. “There are varying degrees of impromptu and planned interactions because sometimes people just paddle by and invite themselves to come ashore.” The pair are ready with free refreshments.

“We have this long paddle,” Grawunder adds with a chuckle. “Sometimes we hand out Negronis. They don’t even have to get out of the boat if they don’t want to.”

Do you — or someone you know — have a beautiful home with a story to tell? Whether it’s big or small, rural or suburban, Sonoma magazine wants to showcase what makes your slice of Sonoma County special. Email us at editors@sonomamag.com and share your story.

The post Architect Couple Rebuilds Depression-Era Summer Cabin on the Russian River appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Beer has come a long way from the days when the only choices available were light or regular. In the past two decades, the flavors and styles on tap have grown into a booming industry that now satisfies patrons thirsty for fruity saisons, triple IPAs and barrel-aged sours. 

Craft beer, once a niche market for a community of homebrewers and beer aficionados, has spilled out across the nation in record numbers. As of 2024, there are over 9,700 breweries in the country creating unique and flavorful concoctions of hops, malt and yeast. 

Sonoma County, and Santa Rosa in particular, reigns supreme in this golden age of beer with riches in the form of world-renowned craft breweries. With an ever-growing number of first-class beer venues to choose from, it can be hard for beer-lovers to plan their Sonoma suds adventures. For first-time visitors wondering where to start, we present a sampling of our favorite local breweries below. Cheers! 

HenHouse Brewing Company, Santa Rosa/Petaluma

For beer aficionados, a handful of craft breweries make Sonoma County stand out – among them is HenHouse. HenHouse co-founders Collin McDonnell and Scott Goyne founded the brewery in 2012, and sold bottled beers exclusively at the Petaluma brewery. Four years later, they opened a Santa Rosa taproom; an industrial space featuring free popcorn and the Red Horse Pizza food truck out front.

Now in its 13th year, HenHouse continues to churn out the kind of ales, sours and stouts that attract beer snobs from near and far. Their HenHouse IPA and Chemtrails IPA are two of the best IPAs we’ve tried and the limited-release Big Chicken DIPA is one of the most sought after brews made in Sonoma County.

322 Bellevue Ave., Santa Rosa; 1333 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, henhousebrewing.com

Cooperage Brewing Company, Santa Rosa 

Cooperage founder, head brewer and Orange County transplant, Tyler Smith has turned a decade of brewing in a garage into one of the premier craft breweries in one of the premier craft brewery locations in the world.

The brewery, located in an industrial warehouse, has become a favorite destination for beer enthusiasts looking for unique and well crafted pale ales — The Wyatt Terp is a must-try for IPA lovers. Cooperage also features food trucks for the hungry, a giant projector screen for sports fans and an arcade machine with joystick classics for those looking for some old-school fun. Just last year, Cooperage opened a second location in downtown Santa Rosa.

981 Airway Court, Suite G, and 575 Ross St., Santa Rosa, 707-293-9787, cooperagebrewing.com

Fogbelt Brewing Company, Santa Rosa/Healdsburg

Founded in 2013 by Paul Hawley and Remy Martin, Fogbelt Brewing Company is another reason why Santa Rosa is repeatedly named a top of craft beer destination. Like the name of the brewery, Fogbelt’s brews pay tribute to the North Coast — each flagship beer is named after a coastal redwood tree.

From the crisp Atlas Blonde Ale to the robust Armstrong Stout, beer flights connoisseurs will not be disappointed with what’s on tap. The brewery is also host to one of the best brewery kitchens we’ve encountered: try the fish tacos with pickled radish and chipotle crema. In 2022, the brewery opened Fogbelt Station in Healdsburg.

1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3400; 410 Hudson St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8532, fogbeltbrewing.com

Moonlight Brewing Company, Santa Rosa

Moonlight head brewer Brian Hunt is old school. Hunt was crafting brews before there was even a craft beer industry, and his Moonlight Brewing became the first microbrewery in Santa Rosa when it opened in 1992.

The Moonlight brewery process relies on a no-frills approach: sight, smell and taste determine when a beer is ready and barley, grains and herbs make up the main ingredients. A sip on a Moonlight beer will bring you back to a time when the beer world was not dominated by hoppy IPAs; and the San Francisco-style, black lager “Death and Taxes” will make the previously pure join the dark side, for sure.

3350 Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa, 707-755-4951, moonlightbrewing.com

Russian River Brewing Company, Santa Rosa/Windsor

What is there to say that has not already been said about this Santa Rosa brewing behemoth? Russian River has won just about every beer award you can win, garnered worldwide fame and sent beer lovers into a February frenzy for the past 20 years with limited-release Pliny the Younger.

While the brewery’s hoppy Plinys (Younger and Elder) are definitely worth a try, the less intense, well-balanced and flavorful Blind Pig IPA should also be included on your beer bucket list. An added, and sometimes overlooked, bonus is the family-friendly atmosphere at the brewery (including a kids menu). But leave junior at home for the annual Pliny pilgrimage, no kid (and few adults) want to wait in line for hours.

725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 700 Mitchell Lane, Windsor, 707-545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com

Iron Ox Brewing Company, Santa Rosa

Founder Kevin Robinson spent 10 years plowing through the beer and wine industry before he opened his own Santa Rosa brewery in 2015, originally called Plow Brewing Co. until changing the name to Iron Ox in 2020. While Iron Ox may not enjoy the kind of ballyhoo other breweries on this list do, that’s no loss to Robinson; as the brewery website states: “We are not ones to follow the trend or make beer for the masses. We make beer for us.”

Iron Ox brews without chemicals, extracts or finings (a compound agent added to beer to improve clarity or adjust flavor/aroma), making every beer vegan-friendly. The taproom is small and the intimate atmosphere makes this an ideal spot for escaping the crowds while relaxing with a cold one. Order the Sonoma Coast Pils and Steel Share IPA.

3334 Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-843-4583, ironoxbeer.com

Shady Oak Barrel House, Santa Rosa

Calling themselves the “The Shady Bunch,” the team at Shady Oak is committed to fostering a family-like vibe at its taproom and beer garden while supporting the community. The brewery plays host to a variety of North Bay vendors, musicians and artists in its large indoor venue. Find an assortment of changing brews on tap, from hard seltzers to classic West Coast IPAs.

420 First St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-7687, shadyoakbrewing.com

Old Possum Brewing Co., Santa Rosa

Old Possum sources hops from Sonoma County farmers, so guests know they’re supporting local when they dine on barbecue from the kitchen and wash the meal down with a crushable IPA. Standout beers include the Interstellar Stout, Disturbance Pale Ale and Fresh Sonoma IPA.

357 Sutton Place, Santa Rosa, 707-303-7177, oldpossumbrewing.com

Lagunitas Brewing Company, Petaluma

A North Bay staple for the past three decades, Lagunitas continues to impress beer aficionados by producing one-of-a-kind, boundary-pushing interpretations of traditional brews with heavy hitting flavor. Flagship classics include Little Sumpin’, Lagunitas Pils, Aunt Sally, Hop Stoopid and Brown Shugga. Lagunitas’ Petaluma location provides one of the best atmospheres to enjoy a beer with a live music venue, inviting outdoor patio, full kitchen, photo booth and gift shop.

1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-284-1020, lagunitas.com

Old Caz Beer, Rohnert Park

Just four months after opening a new brewpub in Rohnert Park’s SOMO Village, Old Caz Beer’s One Way IPA took second place at the prestigious Great American Beer Festival. If that isn’t enough reason to visit Old Caz, then its rotating lineup of stellar food trucks are sure to entice. The food trucks that frequent the brewpub include the Japanese-style Shokakko, pizza pop-up Gabacool Provisions and local brothers-owned Galvan’s Eatery. There’s nothing quite like washing down birria tacos with a crisp IPA.

1500 Valley House Drive, Suite 110, Rohnert Park, 707-665-6668, oldcaz.com

Parliament Brewing Company, Rohnert Park

This family-owned brewery, with beer master Justin Bosch at the helm, has a healthy mix of drafts on tap to match any taste. Some favorites include the crisp Mexican-style lager “Los Tecolotes,” the hazy IPA “Kaleidoscope” and the fruity sour “Berry Pie.” Find coveted local food trucks parked at Parliament every day, such as Shokkako, API Hot Chicken and War Pigs Craft Kitchen.

5865 Labath Ave., Suite 9, Rohnert Park, 707-776-6779, parliamentbrewing.com

Barrel Brothers Brewing Company, Windsor

Barrel Brothers, like the name implies, is a family affair. The brewery was founded by brothers-in-law, Wesley Deal and Daniel Weber, and their father-in-law, Tom Sather in 2015. Considering themselves akin to alchemists, the family concocts magical potions from water, grain, hops and yeast. Their beers run the spectrum from light to dark. The “Blonde Voyage” Belgian ale makes for an ideal barbecue beverage, while the “Dark Sarcasm” porter is packed with chocolate, mocha and vanilla. Their “Naughty Hops” IPA is brewed with their revolutionary, ‘Hop Spanker’ technology. The Windsor tap room may be on the small side for some, but there are plenty of fresh beers on tap to enjoy.

9238 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 128, Windsor, barrelbrothersbrewing.com

CUVER Belgian Brewers, Windsor

Kids and pets are welcome at this Windsor brewery’s spacious patio while the adults sip citrusy lagers and rich ales. Among the top picks of brews here is the signature Pepperwood, a saison ale that won a gold medal in the 2024 California State Fair’s Commercial Craft Beer competition. Food trucks pull up to the taproom from 4-7 p.m. most Fridays.

7704 Bell Road, Suite A, Windsor, 707-687-0577, cuverbrewing.com

Crooked Goat Brewing, Sebastopol/Petaluma

If you like to wet your whistle with some wheat brew, then Crooked Goat is the place for you. This Sebastopol brewery crafts unique wheat ales infused with flavors from honey, blackberries, raspberries — even bubblegum (featured in the aptly named “Bazooka Joe”). Crooked Goat also boasts a selection of hoppy, high ABV percentage IPAs, such as the West Coast-style “Ibex” and the apricot- and vanilla-infused “Foggy Notion” DIPA. Brewmaster Will Erickson and crew took Crooked Goat from a garage to the 10-barrel system taproom at The Barlow, winning The People’s Choice Award at the Santa Rosa Battle of the Brews in 2015. Crooked Goat opened a second taproom in Petaluma in 2022. This summer through Sept. 13, the Sebastopol location is hosting a free summer concert series every Saturday.

120 Morris St., Suite 120, Sebastopol, 707-827-3893; 110 Howard St., Petaluma, 707-559-5691, crookedgoatbrewing.com

Sonoma Spring Brewing Company, Sonoma

At Sonoma Springs Brewing Company, the only brewery located in the city of Sonoma, there’s an expansive lineup of California and German-style beers. In keeping with the craft beer trend, all Sonoma Springs brews have fun, catchy names: “Pacific Coast Hopway,” “Dreaming Out Loud,” and “Subliminal Gold IPA” are a few examples. With over 20 fresh beers on tap, there’s plenty to choose from at the taproom.

19449 Riverside Drive, Suite 101, Sonoma, 707-938-7422, sonomaspringsbrewing.com

Maci Martell contributed to this article.

The post Russian River and More: Best Sonoma County Breweries for First-Time Visitors appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Guerneville is no stranger to summer love, but this summer, the town earned national attention. On July 2, the Wall Street Journal featured Guerneville in a guide to top day trips from San Francisco, highlighting Johnson’s Beach and other laid-back attractions two hours north of the city.

Tucked beneath the redwoods and alongside the Russian River, Guerneville was praised for its natural beauty, wine tastings, LGBTQ+ culture and breezy vacation energy.

The article spotlighted Johnson’s Beach as the “riverside party,” where beachgoers sunbathe and soak in the summer scene.

Johnson’s Beach has lured generations of summer visitors since the 1920s with its canoe rentals, cute cabins and an old-school snack bar. The beach’s relaxing environment makes it a go-to destination for Northern California families, day-trippers and anyone chasing a classic Sonoma County summer. 16215 First St., 707-869-2022, johnsonsbeach.com

The shoutout didn’t go unnoticed. The team at Johnson’s Beach shared their excitement in an Instagram post July 5, thanking travel writer Freda Moon for including the beach in her Wall Street Journal article.

This is not the first time the beach has made national headlines. In 2024, Travel + Leisure named Johnson’s California’s “coolest” beach, noting its retro summer camp vibes and family-friendly feel.

In addition to the beach, the Wall Street Journal called out several other destinations in Guerneville and the Russian River area. Here are the standouts:

Equality Vines

The country’s first LGBTQ+ cause-based winery is a welcoming locale to go wine tasting on the weekend or to host private events such as staff celebrations or business development socials. “I think it’s massive for the community that we were mentioned,” said Matt Grove, co-founder of Equality Vines. “Because of all the construction in the community, we hope we get more foot traffic. So the culmination of being featured in this article is momentous for the community.” 16215 Main St., 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com

Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve

The powerful and captivating redwood grove is an attraction anyone can enjoy when looking to get away from crowds and the city featuring peaceful trails, a visitor center, an outdoor amphitheater, and picnic areas. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-2015, parks.ca.gov

Korbel Champagne Cellars

The historic bubbly tasting house offers daily public tours and tastings. Chase the sweet California Champagne at the deli, Korbel Delicatessen and Market, with any market salad. 13250 River Road, 707-824-7000, korbel.com

Rainbow Cattle Company

The town’s iconic nightlife also got a mention, including this longtime gay saloon. The atmosphere inside the rustic interior is always flannel-friendly and judgment-free. “I’m just flattered that the Wall Street Journal mentioned us,” said co-owner Robert Frederick. 16220 Main St., 707-869-0206, queersteer.com

Rio Nido Roadhouse

By day, Rio Nido Roadhouse is buzzing with families enjoying the snack bar that offers kid-friendly bites while parents sip craft beers and cocktail specials outdoors. By night, it transforms into a lively redwood-stage venue playing country music, reggae, rock and more. 14540 Canyon 2 Road, Rio Nido, 707-869-0821, rionidoroadhouse

Pat’s International

This retro diner offers breakfast and lunch for anyone looking to relax and refuel before heading down to the river. Pat’s is known for its doughnuts and Korean fried chicken sandwiches. 16236 Main St., 707-604-4007, patsinternational.com

A short drive away — Sonoma Coast State Park and Goat Rock Beach

The dramatic Sonoma coastline is known for its harbor seal pups in late spring to mid summer and misty ocean views. A trip to the coast is a great way to get away from the inland heat during the summer. 3095 Highway 1, 707-875-3483, Bodega Bay, parks.ca.gov

With shout-outs from both Travel + Leisure and now the Wall Street Journal, Johnson’s Beach — and Guerneville as a whole — continues to find national attention. The spotlight just confirms what Sonoma County already knows: Guerneville still has it.

The post Guerneville Gets Spotlight in Wall Street Journal’s Summer Day Trips Guide appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

For more than a year, I’ve been wowed by chef Amelia Telc’s dinner pop-ups at The Casino in Bodega. Her menus are tauntingly delicious, with dishes like seared squid with Calabrian chile and green garlic, pork belly and ginger wonton soup, pot au feu, and chocolate mousse with poached prunes and cream.

Her resume includes buzzy restaurants you’ve definitely heard of in New York and San Francisco, and her globally inspired cooking is driven by what she finds at farmers markets and what’s just come in at the dock.

On Thursday nights this summer, she’s cooking at the new River Electric camp resort and swim club in Guerneville (16101 Neeley Road). Her a la carte menus change weekly, but a recent dinner included chicken Provençal, mussels in white wine, crispy new potatoes and a roasted plum sundae.

Access to the private club bar is $5 after 4 p.m., with dinner served from 6:30 to 9 p.m., first come, first served. Details at instagram.com/halfhitch_tomales.

You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Heather on Instagram @biteclubeats.

The post Half Hitch Will Be Popping up at The River Electric All Summer Long appeared first on Sonoma Magazine.

Endlessly flowing, the river has often been celebrated as a symbol of rebirth. From rural church baptisms and water-powered sawmills to songs (“Proud Mary”) and novels (“A River Runs Through It”), the river resonates as a source of renewal.

That same spirit of resurgence is alive and well this summer along the Russian River, with the launch of The River Electric glamping resort and swim club, and the much-anticipated debut of Guerneville Social Club later this fall. It’s the latest splash in a “new river scene” that started more than a decade ago when mortgage broker turned restaurateur and hotelier Crista Luedtke took a chance on Boon hotel + spa and Boon eat + drink, kickstarting an influx of local investment and new businesses that have swelled in recent years.

“I think people are really starting to catch on to how magical it is here, not only in the summer, but really year-round,” says Luedtke, who knows that no matter how much Guerneville and surrounding river towns might evolve, there will always be a “gritty bohemian funkiness” beneath the surface.

It’s the reason Bonzo, a new Guerneville gift shop, sells sweatshirts with the slogan “Keeping it weird since 1850” beneath a silkscreened winged frog and a cluster of mushrooms with eyes. And it’s the reason corporate chain restaurants rarely venture into town — and those that do, like Subway, don’t survive. “We’re not ever gonna be a Healdsburg or an Aspen or a Sonoma town square,” Luedtke says. “We’re still funky, and we will always be funky. I mean, look at River Electric. As hip and groovy as it is, it’s still got its cool funkiness. They’re taking over what was once J’s Amusement Park.”

On a tour of The River Electric a week before it opened, co-owner Kelsey Sheofsky showed off the resort’s new tent city beneath the redwoods (imagine an Ewok forest village with chic canvas tents) and made note of a tombstone — a vestige of Dr. Evil’s Haunted House that continued to scare locals every Halloween long after the amusement park went dark — that still needed to be removed.

Where once there was a Mad Mouse roller coaster and corner-hugging go-karts, a 12-acre resort has come to life as The River Electric, centered around a 60-foot circular pool accessible to overnight guests or with a $32 day pass. A sleek outdoor bar and restaurant serves upgraded smashburgers, turkey clubs, and Straus soft serve (and look for The River Electric canned wine collab with Ruth Lewandowski Wines). A block from the river, it’s a watering hole by day, with chaise lounge and cabana upgrades, and a glamping resort by night, all drenched in an Oakland hipster vibe — evidenced by the Instagram-bait payphone booth, restored and reprogrammed so that guests who pick up the receiver hear poetry recited in a voice reminiscent of Boris Karloff.

Sheofsky and her husband, Mike, made their name erecting luxury tent hotels in the middle of nowhere all over the country with their glamping production company, Shelter Co. Since founding it in 2011, they’ve staged elaborate off-the-grid weddings, hosted eclipse events for Virgin Galactic, and provided VIP tent experiences at BottleRock and Outside Lands music festivals. With The River Electric, they’re putting down roots and finding a permanent home for the brand. After buying the property in 2018, they’ve weathered seven years of permitting and floods to make it happen. “We filled the pool yesterday and I said, ‘This pool is half river water and half my tears,'” says Kelsey Sheofsky, who is very grateful for the river resurgence, giving respect and credit to Luedtke as the de facto “town mayor” of this unincorporated river community.

Just as there is a seasonal flow to the Russian River, a rolling way of life that runs between the highs of winter rains, when currents move fast, and the lows of lazy summer trickles, when paddlers have to portage kayaks to the next deep spot — there is also a generational flow through the decades.

In the 1850s, it was a logger’s paradise, better known as Stumptown. In the 1930s through the 1950s, it was a popular postcard summer escape for fogged-in San Francisco families. Big bands leaders Duke Ellington and Tommy Dorsey played the circuit from Forestville to Rio Nido to Guerneville and beyond. In the ’60s, hippies came to town, with the Grateful Dead playing the Dance Hall in Rio Nido. Then in the late ’70s and early ’80s, it became an LGBTQ+ haven, with gay entrepreneurs opening Fife’s Resort, Rainbow Cattle Company, and R3 Resort, eventually paving the way for Pride parades, Lazy Bear Week, and Women’s Weekend.

“I think this latest wave is not necessarily a reinvention, as much as it is just like the next generation,” says Nick Schwanz, the president of the Russian River Chamber of Commerce and co-owner of Solar Punk Farms. “A lot of young people are coming up to Guerneville for the same reason that people have always come up to Guerneville — because it’s absolutely gorgeous.”

If Forestville is the gateway from the east and, winding along River Road, Monte Rio and Duncans Mills are the trailing lower-river towns that give way to the coast, then it makes sense that Guerneville is the epicenter, where much of the new scene is taking hold. When historians look back one day at the urban flight and migratory effects of Covid on small towns across America, this former logging town will be the perfect case study.

The Sheofskys had already planned their escape from San Francisco to Sebastopol when the pandemic hit in 2020, just two days after their kids started at new schools. Among that same wave of transplants is Michael Rex, a former ESL teacher in San Francisco who moved to Guerneville during the pandemic.

Lured by a “For Rent” sign in the window, he opened Russian River Books & Letters in an alcove beside Coffee Bazaar café. He has filled the charming book nook with a wide range of literature and sprinkled in vintage typewriters that customers can use to type poems or letters. An acoustic guitar sits in the corner, waiting for anyone who wants to strum it. Along with author readings, the bookstore hosts live musical performances, and there’s a Hanukkah concert every year.

Since opening in 2021, Rex has learned a lot about locals by the books they order. “It’s very eclectic. You have fly fishermen and hunters, and then you have drag queens and bikers and bicyclists,” he says. “Somebody said that Guerneville is the queerest rural town in America, and it’s probably true.”

There’s a special section in the bookstore curated by Solar Punk Farms, whose owners, Schwanz and his husband Spencer Scott, also repaired to the river from San Francisco during the pandemic. Converting a former horse property on Armstrong Woods Road into a “queer-run regenerative land project,” they’re harvesting their first crops this year, supplying local restaurants in town. But they’ve created more than a farm. Having recently hired an events manager, they’re planning concerts, farm tours, volunteer weekends, and an “upcycled fashion festival.”

Across the street from the bookstore, Hair and Heavy Metal Salon boasts the largest concentration of ’80s hair band posters (Dio, Motley Crue, Whitesnake) along the river. In 2023, owner Donnelle Malnik moved to Guerneville, calling it “the freakiest spot I could find catapulting out of San Francisco.” Around the corner on Main Street, El Barrio mezcal lounge is always hopping on summer nights. It features a three-page cocktail list and a closet-sized kitchen where they make their own tortillas. Like other big-city expats, owner Jimmy Kansau blew into town during the pandemic with his husband.

“In the summer, everybody’s in a good mood,” Kansau says. “Everybody wants to have a party. So it’s a constant influx of people in and out. Some people come here with their bathing suits and their hats, and other people come dressed up, because they just feel like dressing up. It’s a juxtaposition of amazing things, for sure.”

Four years ago, the Venezuela native bought El Barrio from Luedtke. This fall, he’s planning to open Guerneville Social Club near R3 Hotel at Mill and Fourth streets in the former Timberline Restaurant. His vision is a market hall concept with downstairs storefronts that might include a bakery, coffee shop, and taproom, with a beer garden out back. The upstairs event hall will be the main attraction, he says, the scene of “ridiculous weekend brunches” in the restaurant, along with cooking classes and wellness activities. As a social club there will be a yearly membership of around $200 a year.

With so much investment coming from newcomers, it’s not surprising to hear the word “gentrification” pop up in local conversation. It’s one of the reasons The River Electric is hosting “Local Tuesdays” with $5 entrance fee and lower-priced menu options “so you can really come in and have lunch and swim for under 20 bucks,” says Kelsey Sheofsky.

When Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint owner Yvette Bidegain says, “This isn’t the same Guerneville that was here when I grew up. This is a totally different town,” she means it in a good way. Bidegain grew up in the Hacienda community east of town, near Forestville. Her father ran the Richardson’s Ribs booth at the Sonoma County Fair, serving gumbo and ribs from recipes he learned growing up in Louisiana. It proved so popular they eventually opened three restaurants. Bidegain used vacation time from her job at CalTrans to help out with the business.

In 2017, she started doing pop-up soul food once a week, gaining a devoted following selling Southern food and barbecue at Johnson’s Beach during the pandemic summers. Since she opened Saucy Mama’s in 2022 west of downtown, the biggest seller has been the catfish and fried okra, inspiring one of her friends to call her “the Colonel Sanders of catfish.” The ribs, cooked out back in a Texas smoker with her father’s secret recipe, come in a close second. Ebbing and flowing over the years, the Russian River seems to have found a new rhythm, she says. “I’m a person who likes change — change is good. No one expects to find a soul food restaurant in Guerneville, and they tell us that all the time.”

Now, at the peak of the summer season, as tourists from around the Bay Area and California discover — or rediscover — the winding ribbon of water that rolls through the redwoods, it’s a chance for a new generation of business owners to learn to work together in solidarity. “Anytime there’s a new business that comes to town, it’s not about like, ’Oh man, there’s competition.’ No, it’s like, more begets more,” says Luedtke. “I come from an abundance model, where I feel like there’s enough for everyone. New people coming to town is an opportunity for us all to shine our shoes and make sure that we’re not getting complacent and lazy.”

Small Town Gems

Forestville

Burke’s Canoe Trips: Countless thousands have dropped in here for the epic summer rite of passage: paddling the 10-mile span of the Russian River from Forestville to Guerneville.

Along the way, you can stop off at sandbars and beaches for picnics and swimming. Keep an eye out for wildlife such as great blue herons, river otter, osprey, and turtles. And make sure you chat up owner Linda Burke, whose family has been renting boats since the late 1950s, back when Burke’s Resort had a roller rink, arcade, and nightclub that staged everyone from Tommy Dorsey to Duke Ellington. Rates: $95 canoes/$60 kayaks, with complimentary shuttle pickup. 707-887-1222, burkescanoetrips.com

River Shuttle: Summer parking can be a nightmare at many of the beautiful regional park beaches along the river, especially later in the day. Hot tip: Hop on the Sonoma County Regional Parks River Shuttle, departing every 30 minutes from El Molino High School, 7050 Covey Road, Forestville. The shuttle runs 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekends and holidays from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, stopping at Steelhead Beach Regional Park and Sunset Beach River Park. Buy $5 advance passes: parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov/visit/regional-parks-river-shuttle

Also, one of the best river hangouts is at the wide sandy beach at Mom’s Beach, just past Burke’s Canoe and Steelhead Beach, at 10584 River Drive. Make sure you get there early (park opens at 7 a.m. and there are only 17 spots), park in the corner lot, just off River Road, and take the trail down to the water.

Sonoma Pizza Co.: If you’re looking for picnic supplies in town, this seasonal gourmet pizza joint poses a tough choice between the wood-fired Pepperoni Nirvana pie, prepared Chris’s Way with hot honey and ricotta, and the Italian Stallion sandwich. 6615 Front St. 707-820-1031, sonomapizzaco.com

Rio Nido

Rio Nido Roadhouse: There may be no better venue to see live music near the river than this classic roadhouse. It’s the reason Chuck Prophet keeps returning for his Summertime Thing festival. It’s where Count Basie and Harry James played during the 1930s and ’40s, and where The Beach Boys and the Grateful Dead plugged in during the ’60s. And it’s the reason why most locals show up any night no matter who’s on the bill. 14540 Canyon 2 Road. 707-869-0821, rionidoroadhouse.com

Guerneville

Things to do

The River Electric: Located on 12 acres, about a block from the river, this brand-new swim club and glamping resort features two pools to cool off on a hot summer day — a 60-foot round pool and the smaller, rectangular Little Dipper. Swim club day passes are $32, with upgrades for chaise lounges and cabanas. Pool bar snacks range from smashburgers, “River Rat” fries (loaded with pimento cheese), and root beer floats to ceviche and local wines. Pool and restaurant are open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 16101 Neeley Road. 707-937-8915, theriverelectric.com

Johnson’s Beach: Rent a kayak, a beach umbrella, or a cabin and chill at one of the most famous bends in the river. Siblings Ethan, Alison, and Andrew Joseph took over in 2022 and are updating what founders Ernie and Gertie Johnson started a century earlier in 1918. 16215 First St. 707-869-2022, johnsonsbeach.com

Solar Punk Farms: Touted as a “queer-run regenerative hub,” this former horse arena has been reborn as a climate think-tank, demonstration area, and working farm all rolled into one. Look for a MORF (Music on Regenerative Farms) concert on July 12. Later this year, they’re creating “Wine and Wander” experiences that combine farm tours with wine tasting, and also volunteer work and play weekends. 15015 Armstrong Woods Road. solarpunkfarms.com

Equality Vines: Founders Matt Grove and Jim Obergefell combine their love of winemaking with an undying fight for equal rights in this eclectic tasting room. Since releasing their first wines (with names like Rosé the Riveter and 19th Amendment Sauvignon Blanc), they have donated nearly $300,000 to nonprofits and equality organizations. 16215 Main St. 877-379-4637, equalityvines.com

Porter-Bass Winery: “We do our tastings outside under our walnut tree,” says winemaker Lance Bass. “It’s a fairly intimate setting, with a beautiful view of the vineyard and the forest around us.” When his parents bought the 17-acre vineyard in 1980, it was run-down with old, unhealthy Palamino and Zinfandel vines. Today, it’s thriving with organically farmed Chardonnay and Zinfandel. Tastings by appointment only. $25 per person, fee waived with purchase of wine. 11750 Mays Canyon Road. 707-869-1475, porter-bass.com

Pond Farm Pottery: Master potter Marguerite Wildenhain put this renowned ceramics studio and artist colony on the map back in the 1940s and ‘50s. Now a designated National Historic Landmark located in the Austin Creek State Recreation Area, it hosts a new artist residency program and docent-led tours for $25 per person the third Saturday from March-October. Reserve spots at pondfarm.org. 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, 707-869-9177

Shopping

Guerneville Wine Collective: This newly opened wine nook takes over where previous Wine Vault owners left off, adding trendy imported tinned fish from Spain and Portugal to the mix. “Our idea is that people can come and grab some pickled veggies, tinned fish, some crisps, a bottle of wine and then go to the river and have a picnic,” says owner Karla Garcia. She opened the wine shop next to Nimble & Finn’s ice cream in the historic Guerneville Bank Club building in May. 16290 Main St., Instagram.com/guernevillewinecollective

Bonzo: Run by husband-and-wife team Eric Gonzales and Beth Miles, this funky clothing and gift shop is the place to go for all things Guerneville-branded, such as river-centric “I Choose the Bear” or Samsquanch T-shirts, “Gville” hats, and “Keeping it Weird Since 1950” hoodies. 14016 Armstrong Woods Road, thebonzo.com

Places to eat

Boon eat + drink: The much-buzzed-about restaurant that helped put Guerneville on the map when chef Crista Luedtke opened in 2009 still garners rave reviews more than 15 years later. The focus is on seasonal, farm-to-table comfort food, so it’s no surprise the flash-fried Brussels sprouts are still the most popular dish, Luedtke says, adding that “the mac ‘n’ cheese is still going strong.” This time of year, look for “blistered tomatoes, seasonal peaches, basil, and really fresh summer vibes on halibut,” she says. No reservations. 16248 Main St. 707-869-0780, eatatboon.com

Road Trip: Chef Crista Luedtke’s latest offering is an ode to her globe-trotting foodie travels and childhood favorites. Look for Mexican street corn salad daily and Thai-style pork Benedict with crispy rice cakes and a Thai hollandaise sauce on the weekend brunch menu. Two of the most popular items are the Free Bird and The Mac Daddy. “Don’t call me out here, but I love a Big Mac and this is my version,” says Luedtke, who makes her own secret sauce. 16218 Main St. 707-604-6102, eatatroadtrip.com

Trillium: The petite 12-seat marble-counter raw bar is the main attraction at this forest-flower-inspired café and lounge run by chef Greg Barnes and wine geek Genevieve Payne. Come for the super-fresh oysters, poke, crudos, and ceviche — but don’t miss the crab roll. And good luck narrowing it down to a glass on the nearly bottomless wine list. 16222 Main St. 707-604-5750, trillium.bar

Saucy Mama’s Jook Joint: Owner Yvette Bidegain has taken her Louisiana family’s recipes and love of Southern cuisine and soul food to another level with the ever-popular fried catfish and her father’s secret-spiced ribs that premiered decades ago to long lines at the Richardson’s Ribs booth at the Sonoma County Fair. From collard greens to sweet potato pie, there’s even something for vegetarians — behold the deep-fried tofu po’boy. 16632 Highway 116. 707-604-7184, saucymamasjookjoint.com

Nimble & Finn’s: Year after year, the most popular flavor at this boutique handmade ice cream shop is lavender honeycomb. But it really depends on what’s in season. Two sisters, Leandra and Jazmin, started with a pushcart freezer at farmers markets, and now make a wide range of flavors from Earl Grey blackberry to toasted coconut date shake. Located inside the historic Guerneville Bank Club building (next to the Wine Collective). Tip: Don’t miss the cool photo booth in the old bank vault behind the counter. 16290 Main St. 707-666-9411, nimbleandfinns.com

Piknik Town Market: First thing to know is, yes, the new owner, Margaret Van der Veen, is still serving the famous biscuits that once made Oprah’s holiday list of “Favorite Things” when the same venue was known as Big Bottom Market. Now the motto is “same biscuit, different basket.” It’s the perfect pop-in spot to grab a breakfast burrito in the morning or a Headlands Hiker sando (beetroot hummus, mixed greens, topped off with pickled cucumber-cashew kale pesto on a ciabatta roll) in the afternoon. 16228 Main St. 707-604-7295, pikniktownmarket.com

El Barrio: One of the tastiest cocktails at this popular mezcal lounge is known as El Patron, named after owner Jimmy Kansau, “because, well, I’m the boss,” he says. Close your eyes and you’ll swear it’s a Mexican Negroni. In addition to handmade tortillas and birria tacos, don’t get Kansau started on the L.A.-style vegetarian tacos with roasted-curry cauliflower, pine nuts, olives, and dates. “It’s kind of like an amalgamation of cultures with this amazing habanero salsa,” he says. “It’s to die for.” 16230 Main St. 707-604-7601, elbarriobar.com

Baked on the River: Helena Gustavsson Giesea’s popular Guerneville café reopened this spring at the R3 Hotel, serving dinner plus brunch and a barbecue lunch on weekends. 16390 Fourth St. 707865-6060, bakedontheriver.com

Places to stay

The River Electric: In addition to the swim club, this glamping resort offers overnight stays in 40 tents. They’re decked out with king-size beds, electricity, and Wi-Fi, tucked away like a luxurious summer camp in the shade of a redwood forest that runs up against the meadow and pool. 16101 Neeley Road. 707-937-8915, theriverelectric.com

Dawn Ranch: This 22-acre spread of chalets, cabins, cottages, bungalows, and tents is an intimate natural river paradise. Chefs Juliana Thorpe and Ignacio Zuzulich spin local produce and seasonal ingredients with a Brazilian, Argentinian, and European twist. Dawn Ranch is also home to the annual Cosmico music festival where the theme is “music is love.” 16467 Highway 116. 707-869-0656, dawnranch.com

The Stavrand: Roll out of bed to a plate of crab Benedict and a flight of mimosas at this off-the-beaten-path hideaway in Pocket Canyon, across the bridge and down the road from The River Electric. Owners Sam and Emily Glick (previously the general manager at the Kimpton Buchanan in San Francisco) bought the former Applewood Inn and turned it into a luxury boutique gem. 13555 Highway 116. 707-869-9093, thestavrand.com

Boon hotel + spa and The Highlands: “I like to call Boon sort of like Palm Springs meets the redwoods. It’s kind of got that mid-century vibe,” says Crista Luedtke, owner of both resorts. “And then Highlands is more like an adult summer camp. A little bit moody, a little bit more like a writer’s retreat.” Take your pick, both have recently been remodeled.

Boon: 14-room boutique hotel with a spa that offers Swedish, deep-tissue, and therapeutic massages, ranging from $145-$215. 14711 Armstrong Woods Road. 707-869-2721, boonhotels.com

The Highlands: Up the hill from Johnson’s Beach, this quirky getaway features rooms, cabins, and Coyote Camp tents. Note to old-timers: The pool is no longer clothing optional like the previous incarnation as Highland Park Lodge. 14000 Woodland Drive. 707-869-0333, highlandsresort.com

AutoCamp: Picture a big campground and lawn nestled among the redwoods west of downtown Guerneville. It’s loaded with 31-foot Airstreams, glamping tents, tiny homes, and the 42-square-foot Happier Camper for a more minimalist stay. Grill out on private outdoor fire pits. The general store is open until 10 p.m. And did we mention complimentary granola? 14120 Old Cazadero Road. autocamp.com/location/russian-river

Mine + Farm: A B&B for cannabis lovers (and beer and wine lovers), this nine-room renovated ranch-house inn grows its own weed. It means guests can toke pre-rolls anywhere from the hot tub to the ping-pong table, or they can dig into special Elevated Experience dinners with cannabis as a featured ingredient. Owners Bryce Skolfield and Suzanne Szostak also cultivate fruit trees, a garden, and chickens on the 3-acre property around the corner from Korbel Winery. 12850 River Road. 707-869-4466, mineandfarm.com

Monte Rio

Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen: Not far from the Monte Rio skate park, this river café with a Middle Eastern twist serves up everything from shakshuka and coconut curry to baklava cream pies and chocolate peanut butter cream pie. And Lightwave might have the raddest T-shirts of any café down by the river, featuring a hand-drawn design with skull and skateboard and gramophone. 9725 Main St. 707-865-5169, lightwavecafe.square.site

Monte Rio Beach: The largest public beach on the lower Russian River offers kayak rentals, soft-serve ice cream, a boat launch, and a dog-friendly area. Tip: There is no better slice of small-rivertown Americana than this beach packed elbow-to-elbow on the Fourth of July for the boat parade and Big Rocky Games. mrrpd.org/monte-rio-beach

Duncans Mills

Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery: Morning pastries and coffee are the go-to wake-up call at this quaint Duncans Mills café. But owner Patrick Parks has also carved out a well-curated musical scene as of late, staging local favorites like Eric Lindell and Sol Horizon, paired with wood-fired pizzas and tasty locally crafted brews. 25377 Steelhead Blvd. 707-865-1441, goldcoastcoffeebakery.com

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