Page 79 – Sonoma Magazine

Starks Are Betting on New Downtown Restaurant in Santa Rosa

September 2023

By Heather Irwin

Mark and Terri Stark, owners of Stark Reality Restaurants, have invested $21,000 to incentivize all staff to get fully vaccinated. (Mariah Smith Photography)

Restaurateurs Mark and Terri Stark have never been afraid to take a chance on unusual restaurant spaces.

From their first Sonoma County restaurant, Willi’s Wine Bar, on far-flung Old Redwood Highway to the once-crumbling Railroad Square complex where Stark’s Steakhouse now operates, the couple have a knack for seeing possibilities where others don’t.

Now, they’re rolling the dice on a historic downtown Santa Rosa restaurant location shuttered since 2020.

When the Starks announced that their eighth restaurant, a French bistro, would open on Fourth Street, many asked why they’d take a risk on what’s been a graveyard for many restaurant concepts — especially after long construction projects and Covid-19.

“We don’t see what other people see downtown. It’s time for a rebirth with all the new housing and hotels,” said Terri Stark, sitting in the upstairs office of Augie’s French restaurant, slated to open Oct. 12 after nine months of renovation.

A sneak peek at the forthcoming Augie's French restaurant in downtown Santa Rosa on Sep. 29, 2023. (Starks Restaurants) — A sneak peek at the forthcoming Augie’s French restaurant in downtown Santa Rosa Sep. 29, 2023. (Starks Restaurants)

As sconces and bright butterfly wallpaper go up, along with a new zinc bar, reoutfitted kitchen, and Easter egg details that are a specialty of Terri Stark (watch for the dog portraits near the back door), the couple is hopeful about the future of the restaurant and downtown.

“This building is the reason we’re here. It just says ‘bistro’ to me. It was this building first and then the concept,” Terri Stark said. “Augie’s” is a nod to Auguste Escoffier, the father of modern French cuisine. Like many diners, they saw a need for a bistro concept after the closure of Chef Brian Anderson’s Bistro 29 in 2020.

According to Mark, Augie’s French will officially be their last restaurant opening.

“Each opening takes two to three years off your life. Eight is enough,” he said. The Stark Reality Restaurants operate Willi’s Wine Bar, Stark’s Steak and Seafood, Willi’s Seafood, Bravas, Grossman’s, Monti’s and Bird and The Bottle.

Augie’s is also a full-circle moment for the 63-year-old chef who began his career in French fine dining in Washington, DC.

“This menu is very familiar. I started with French and will end with French,” he said.

A preview of the opening menu includes bistro classics Salad Lyonnaise, Onion Soup Gratinee, Beef Cheek Bourguignon, Steak Frites, Dover Sole Grenoblaise, Grilled Boudin Blanc with morel mushrooms and Salmon Paillard. He’s incredibly excited about a menu section devoted to escargot (snails), a French delicacy. Augie’s will also feature baguettes and breads made at nearby Grossman’s bakery. Chef Quincey Sanders, formerly of Portland’s Le Pigeon, will head the kitchen.

The Starks say they’re excited to see the renaissance already begun in downtown Santa Rosa.

“We started walking around Santa Rosa, and every time we did, we found something new. We sat on the patio at L’Oro di Napoli and saw so many people we knew. We’re super excited to be downtown. And there’s plenty of parking,” Mark Stark said.

A limited number of soft-opening reservations are available by emailing info@augiesfrench.com.

This Secret Sandwich Shop in Petaluma Is Worth Seeking Out

September 2023

By Heather Irwin

Finding The Local, a north Petaluma sandwich shop takes patience and a good GPS, but it’s worth seeking out. The crafty ultra-local fare hooked us immediately. In the shop at the Active Wellness Center (1201 Redwood Way), chef Raul Lopez creates stunning sandos, wraps, salads, smoothies and fresh pressed juices for an appreciative gym and pool crowd.

But you don’t have to be a member to get a nosh from the fine-dining chef. The grab-and-go deli has small bistro tables for dining in, or you can take your meal to go. Either way, at least try one of The Local’s griddled sandwiches, like the Cubano ($14) with toasted rosemary sourdough, honey ham, Pepper Jack cheese, avocado, pickles, pickled cabbage slaw and chile lime aioli or the Kimchi Banh Mi (vegetarian, $13) with housemade kimchi, Persian cucumber, pickled carrots and onion, ginger and the same zingy aioli as the Cubano.

Chris Osborne wraps a sandwich at The Local, a café located inside the Active Gym in Petaluma._ Tuesday, April 25, 2023. _(CRISSY PASCUAL/ARGUS-COURIER STAFF) — Chris Osborne wraps a sandwich at The Local, a café located inside the Active Gym in Petaluma. Tuesday, April 25, 2023. (Crissy Pascual/Petaluma Argus-Courier)

The Helen Putnam, named for the late Petaluma mayor, is one of The Local’s most popular sandwiches ($12), with roasted beet hummus, avocado, local mustard greens, artichoke, pickled ginger, onions and pickles on Della Fattoria sourdough.

Ingredients are primarily sourced locally, from purveyors like Della Fattoria, Longer Table Farm and the Peach Farm. We love that you can customize your order by choosing gluten-free bread or adding lemon rosemary chicken, turkey or ham to vegetarian and vegan sandwiches. A fun selection of local beers and unique wines are also available.

Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday. thelocalpetaluma.com

A Former Icehouse in Sonoma Is Transformed Into an Industrial-Chic Home

September 2023

By Karen Kizer

Aerial view of the property. (Paul Rollins for Sotheby’s International Realty)

Prospective homebuyers in Sonoma County have a unique opportunity to become the owners of a cool piece of history. A former icehouse just north of the Sonoma plaza, built in 1906, has been artfully converted into an industrial-chic home and is currently listed for $7,995,000.

The two-building home at 301 First St. features 6,743 feet of living space and has four bedrooms and five and a half bathrooms. It enjoys valley views through large windows and from the patio.

After its construction in the early 1900s, the property was the site of the Sonoma Valley Ice and Cold Storage company, which allowed for the railway transportation of Sonoma’s wine, agriculture and dairy products. Since the business’ shuttering in 1912, when refrigeration was invented, the structure has housed a range of operations, from a World War II armory to a brewery and, most recently, a bed and breakfast. The historic building’s current iteration is the result of a 2023 remodel.

Amenities include an ADU, a wellness room, a rooftop deck and a lap pool. Click through the above gallery for a peek inside the home.

For more information, contact Ginger Martin, Ginger.Martin@Sothebys.Realty, Sotheby’s International Realty – St. Helena Brokerage, 1229 Adams St., St. Helena, sothebysrealty.com.

20 Fabulous Fall Festivals and Events in Sonoma County, 2023

September 2023

By Maci Martell

Ruin an outfit stomping grapes at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)

The finest of Sonoma County’s art and agriculture will be on full display this autumn in a myriad of both new and recurring seasonal festivals. Sip exclusive wines, dine on seasonal cuisine, dance to live music and more with a diverse community of artists, winemakers and visitors and locals looking for some fun this fall.

Tapas Short Play Festival, weekends from Sept. 15 to Oct. 8

Pegasus Theater Company’s 15th annual Tapas Short Play Festival, held at the Mount Jackson Masonic Lodge in Guerneville, will feature original short plays by Northern California playwrights on weekends from Sept. 15 through Oct. 8. Curtain time is 7 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays and 2 p.m. for Sunday matinees. General admission is $20. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

14040 Church St., Guerneville, pegasustheater.com

Tumble on the River Music Festival, Sept. 16

Rio Nido Roadhouse will host its second annual Tumble on the River Music Festival on Saturday, featuring a lineup of local talent playing all day. The wide-ranging roster of musical artists includes the self-described “psychedelic outlaw country group” Electric Tumbleweed, the Grateful Dead tribute band Dead Roses, jazz-funk band Sakoyana, the soulful indie Caitlin Jemma Band and more. From 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. General admission is $30. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

14540 Canyon 2 Road, Rio Nido, 707-869-0821, rionidoroadhouse.com

Press Fest 2023, Sept. 16

The Luther Burbank Experiment Farm in Sebastopol will celebrate the region’s bountiful apple harvest with Press Fest 2023, a Western Sonoma County Historical Society project full of free activities in nature. The event, with support from Slow Food Russian River, includes apple tastings, garden strolls, docent tours, apple pressing demonstrations, and nursery sales of fruit trees and rare Burbank plants. The free event will be held from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sept. 16.

7777 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, wschs.org

Hispanic Heritage Festival, Sept. 17

VIDA Cultural Arts will host a Hispanic Heritage Festival (Festival de la Herencia Hispana) in the Sonoma Plaza to celebrate culture and community. The fiesta will include live banda music, a ballet folklorico, art activities, food vendors, micheladas in a cantina garden and more. From 1-7 p.m. Admission is free and food, drinks will be available for purchase.

Sonoma Plaza, 453 First St. East, Sonoma, facebook.com/vidaculturalarts

Real Neato Music Festival, Sept. 23

The Rio Nido Roadhouse will celebrate the region’s “Second Summer” on the first day of fall with the Real Neato Music Festival. The lineup of Bay Area indie bands and artists includes Jesse Judies, Kacie Hill, Mild Universe, ¿Qiensave? and more. From 2-10 p.m. General Admission is $50 and tickets for kids under 12 are $25. VIP admission, which includes reserved seating, drink tickets and swag, are $150. Purchase tickets here.

14540 Canyon 2 Road, Rio Nido, 707-869-0821, realneato.com

Sonoma County VegFest, Sept. 23

The Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building will host VegFest, the county’s “celebration of compassionate, healthy and environmentally responsible living.” The festival will include live music all day, vegetarian food vendors, vegan boutiques, eco-friendly products, vegan cooking demonstrations and more. VegFest is a fundraiser for nonprofit Compassionate Living. From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. General admission is $10. Purchase tickets online or at the entrance on the day of the event.

1351 Maple Ave. Santa Rosa, 707-540-1760, socovegfest.org

Healdsburg International Short Film Festival, Sept. 23

After a long hiatus, the Healdsburg International Short Film Festival is back with a variety of films, from drama to comedy, documentary to animation. There will be two screening blocks at 2 p.m. and 7:30 p.m., and attendees will be able to vote for their favorite films in real time on their phones. Proceeds benefit the Raven Education Program. General admission is $15. Purchase tickets on the Raven Theater website.

115 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-6335, healdsburgfilm.com

Global Roots Sonoma, Sept. 23-24

Sonoma State University’s Green Music Center will host Global Roots Sonoma, a two-day world music festival featuring live music, immersive workshops, food trucks and family activities.

Artists include the Occitan polyphony group San Salvador, Grammy winning jazz singer Catherine Russell, Hawaiian singer-songwriter Paula Fuga and many more, with music stylings spanning the globe from Scotland to Nicaragua. Food vendors include Reggae Rasta Styles, Sushi Shoubu and Fruity Moto. Gates open at noon.

General admission for one day is $29 ($58 for two-day package) and $10 for SSU students and youth under 18 ($20 for two-day package). VIP tickets — which include access to the Sonoma-Cutrer VIP Lounge in Prelude Restaurant & Bar and an exclusive Saturday night after-party — are $250 for Sept. 23 and $125 for Sept. 24 ($375 for two-day package). Purchase tickets at the GMC box office in the courtyard of Weill Hall or email tickets@sonoma.edu.

1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 707-664-4246, gmc.sonoma.edu/global-roots-sonoma

Petaluma Antique Faire, Sept. 24

Petaluma’s 38th annual fall Antique Faire will welcome collectors from across the Bay Area to browse and shop in historic downtown. The antique marketplace features a quality selection of old treasures and keepsakes — such as art, estate jewelry, kitchenware and vintage décor — from over 200 dealers. From 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission to the street fair is free and antiques will be available for purchase.

Located on Kentucky Street, Fourth Street, Western Avenue and the A Street parking lot, Petaluma, 707-762-9348, petalumadowntown.com/antique-show

Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival, Sept. 29-30

The 126th Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival, presented by the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance and Foundation, is a weekend full of wine and culture as the county celebrates its rich winemaking heritage and harvest.

The festival includes a Legends Dinner from 6-10 p.m. on Sept. 29, featuring a four-course dinner by Glen Ellen Star’s chef Ari Weiswasser at B.R. Cohn Winery, live music by singer-songwriter Michelle Lambert, and a live auction on unique wines and experiences ($350, tickets on Eventbrite).

From 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sept. 30, the festival will include a 5K Fun Run through scenic Sonoma Valley (register here), the Sonoma Valley Grand Tasting of exclusive wines and local cuisine ($150, tickets on Eventbrite), the traditional Grape Stomp ($75-$300 depending on team, tickets on Eventbrite), along with live music, artisans booths, a kids zone and the classic water fights.

Sonoma Plaza, 453 First St. E., Sonoma, valleyofthemoonvintagefestival.org

Oktoberfest at The Patch, Sept. 30

The Santa Rosa Pumpkin Patch will host its first Oktoberfest this year; a German-themed festival with food, beer, live bands and more. The event will include Bavarian-style cuisine and drink, a five mile run/walk course, a two-person team Beer Mile race, an Orange Obstacle Course, a Kid’s Pumpkin Run and various pumpkin patch activities. From 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tickets from $45 to $130. Learn more and register at Race Roster.

5157 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 707-582-3276, santarosapumpkinpatch.com

Pride n’ Vino, Oct. 7

Formerly known as Pinot On The River, Pride n’ Vino is a one-day fete of wine, food, art and music in Santa Rosa’s historic Courthouse Square. The 21+ event will include wine tastings, cuisine from artisan food vendors, art displays, a silent auction, live entertainment and a chance to mingle with local winemakers. All proceeds benefit Sonoma County Pride. From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tickets are $50 and can be purchased on Eventbrite.

Old Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa, 707-394-5063, pridenvino.com

Americana Music Festival, Oct. 7

Santa Rosa’s California Theatre will present the second annual Americana Music Festival, bringing a taste of Nashville to Sonoma County. The country-tinged lineup includes jazz violinist Mads Tolling and pianist John R. Burr, Santa Rosa-based band The Familiar Strangers, and the legendary folk and blues singer Maria Muldaur and her band. From 7:30-10 p.m. General admission is $28 and tickets can be purchased online.

528 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-664-7529, caltheatre.com

Sonoma Valley Music Festival, Oct. 13-15

Bay Area nonprofit Music in Place, in partnership with the Sonoma Community Center, will present the 2023 Sonoma Valley Music Festival for three days of live music. The festival will include three afternoon concerts at Sonoma Plaza’s Grinstead Amphitheater, two morning family-centered events at the Sonoma Community Center, three concerts at Sebastiani Theatre and an Oktoberfest concert at Vintage House. Concerts at the Grinstead Amphitheater and community center are free, concerts at Sebastiani Theatre are $10-$35 (tickets here) and Oktoberfest at Vintage House is $20 (on Eventbrite). Check here for details on bands and showtimes.

Multiple locations in Sonoma, musicinplace.org

Russian River Pride 2023, Oct. 13-15

The Russian River Alliance will present the annual Russian River Pride parade and festival for three days of colorful fun along the river in Guerneville. Local vendors will offer activities and exhibits on Oct. 13-14, and the grand festival and parade will be held Oct. 15. The parade starts at noon on Main Street, trotting down Mill Street to Armstrong Woods Road, followed by the festival on Johnson’s Beach from 1-5 p.m.

The festival will include food, drinks and a dance to live music, featuring a DJ and special guests. While there is no entrance fee, donations are appreciated as the event benefits the Guerneville Library, Food for Thought, Watch Duty wildfire alert system, Guerneville Youth Center and Russian River Alliance.

Downtown Guerneville and Johnson’s Beach, russianriverpride.org

Petaluma Pride, Oct. 13-15

The second annual Petaluma Pride, a three-day queer fest, will include: a dance party on Oct. 13 (details to be announced); a pride festival and farmers’ market from noon to 5 p.m. on Oct. 14 at Walnut Park, followed by an after party featuring a drag and burlesque show at The Big Easy; and a brunch at River Front Cafe with a musical performance by Ellie James on Oct. 15. Check back on petalumapride.org or its Facebook for details to come.

Walnut Park, Petaluma, petalumapride.org

Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Oct. 14

Since its debut in 1975, Sonoma County’s Harvest Fair has highlighted the area’s vibrant culture of art, wine, food and agriculture. The coveted event includes the premier Professional Wine Competition, featuring over 900 locally-sourced wines, along with a food competition, world championship grape stomp, food and wine pairings at the tasting pavilion, a classic car show and an art show. From noon to 4 p.m. General admission is $75, VIP tickets are $150, combo tickets for the Harvest Fair and the Healdsburg Crush (the next day) are $200, and designated driver tickets (only available day of event) are $50. Purchase tickets here.

1350 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa, 707-545-4203, harvestfair.org

SRJC Shone Farm Fall Festival, Oct. 14

Santa Rosa Junior College’s Shone Farm Fall Festival will showcase the farm’s seasonal produce and wines with a number of agricultural activities, facilitated by students and instructors of SRJC’s Agriculture and Natural Resources Department. The festival will include fall produce u-pick opportunities, farm tours, hay bale rides, animal meet-and-greets, farm equipment displays, student enterprise projects, and a kids zone featuring rotten fruit slingshot and compost lessons. A food court will feature Black Piglet + Catering and burgers from the Sebastopol FFA. From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Entrance fee is $5 per car. Purchase tickets on Eventbrite.

7450 Steve Olson Lane, Forestville, 707-535-3702, shonefarm.santarosa.edu/fall-festival

15th Annual Greek & Middle Eastern Festival, Oct. 14-15

St. George Orthodox Church in Rohnert Park will host its 15th annual Greek & Middle Eastern Festival during a weekend celebration of Greek and Middle Eastern culture. The event will include Mediterranean cuisine (read: shawarma, gyros, falafel, baklava and more), an international marketplace, live music and entertainment, traditional dances, henna tattoos and a kids carnival corner. From noon to 7 p.m. each day. Reserve a spot for the free event on Eventbrite.

7311 College View Drive, Rohnert Park, festival.stgeorgerp.org

Healdsburg Crush, Oct. 15

Experience the best of the region’s autumn crush season with tastings of limited production wines from over 60 premium local wineries during Healdsburg Crush, held in the heart of downtown on the plaza. In addition to the samplings of exquisite Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling wines, the event will include food vendors, an onsite raffle and a wine-centric silent auction. All proceeds of the 21+ event will benefit the Boys & Girls Clubs of Sonoma-Marin. From noon to 4 p.m. General admission is $125 and exclusive VIP add-on events, which take place on Oct. 13-14 before the main event on Sunday, are $75 each. Purchase tickets here.

Healdsburg Plaza, Healdsburg, 707-919-0548, healdsburgcrush.com

Little Saint’s Second Story Restaurant Pushes Vegan Possibilities in Healdsburg

September 2023

By Heather Irwin

Formerly of Noma in Copenhagen, executive chef Stu Stalker brings his twist on vegan fine dining weekends at Second Story, the new upstairs restaurant at Little Saint in Healdsburg, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED. LITTLE SAINT REMAINS OPEN.

Whether the words “carrot yeast” fold your gastro-nerd brain into origami or you simply shrug it off isn’t the point at Second Story restaurant in Healdsburg. The point is to eat dinner.

But when you hire a chef like Stu Stalker, who has spent the past few years at Michelin-starred Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark, foodies come out of the woodwork to prostrate themselves at the high altar of molecular dining. When the remarkable dining experience costs a reasonable $120 per person, you get a broader swath of customers. And that’s the real endgame, Stalker said.

Little Saint’s (formerly SHED) Second Story dining room has a prix-fixe menu that’s surprisingly modest for the quality of food prepared in the state-of-the-art upstairs kitchen. Stalker, who moved his family to Healdsburg to manage a tiny staff of five (including his brother-in-law), didn’t flounce around town announcing his presence. The whole affair has been remarkably low-key.

A pour of miso at the table over Summer Vegetables with Smoked Tomatoes from the vegan prix fixe menu from chef Stu Stalker on weekends at Second Story, the new upstairs restaurant at Little Saint in Healdsburg September 8, 2023. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Plums N’ Roses cocktail with housemade rose liqueur, with a fermented tea of plums and pits from the bar at Second Story, the new vegan restaurant upstairs at Little Saint in Healdsburg, Sept. 8, 2023. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Plums N’ Roses cocktail with housemate rose liqueur, with a fermented tea of plums and pits from the bar at Second Story, the new vegan restaurant upstairs at Little Saint in Healdsburg September 8, 2023. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The restaurant has targeted locals, mostly, with a menu that eschews dairy, meat and eggs in favor of plant-based dishes that are a deft mix of culinary alchemy and farm-fresh perfection. It’s not simply vegan dining. It’s a blueprint for how we can — and should — eat for the future.

“People are telling us this has been the best meal of their lives, handwriting letters and delivering them to the restaurant. I think we might be onto something here,” said Stalker, seemingly as surprised as anyone. His culinary background certainly includes turning produce into tiny works of art and coaxing the best flavors from each ingredient, but it’s also encompassed plenty of meat-based cuisine. One of his most recent tasks was creating the perfect hamburger for a Noma spinoff.

But like many of us, Stalker sees the logic of reducing his carbon footprint and living healthier with a plant-based diet. He also has the 8-acre Little Saint Farm at his disposal. He can grow whatever produce he wants or needs, including unique varietals destined for immediate consumption and an extended bounty to preserve and use during the winter months.

That means dishes on the Second Story menu now include fresh greens, of-the-moment tomatoes and painstakingly prepared entrees that push the limits of what’s possible with food — like the carrot yeast.

Though it’s no longer available (chances are that little of what I write about here will be, because Stalker’s dishes are ephemeral), the carrot yeast was just a tiny footnote in the description of aebleskiver (a Swedish pancake ball) that nearly broke my brain.

The explanation of the dish’s creation is, according to Stalker, to juice the carrots and infuse the juice with nutritional yeast, freeze the liquid, melt it, clarify, dehydrate and finally reduce the whole kit and kaboodle until it becomes a syrup. You don’t spend years working for Noma’s chef Rene Redzepi and come away without some serious passion for breaking things down into their simplest components. Stalker and a small but mighty team of cooks often spend hours — sometimes days — transmuting humble fruits and vegetables into something magical.

In a salad, a petite stack of greens and herbs from the farm hides three types of dressing, including walnut and chamomile. It’s best eaten with your fingers to savor each flavor. A tomato isn’t just a tomato here. It’s what a tomato dreams of one day becoming, and you dream of one day eating.

That kind of intense preparation, Stalker said, is required for a seamless dinner service.

“The menu is structured to work with a small team and make service easier. We prep Thursday, and we have four to five people, and that’s enough,” he said. “If you forget to make the carrot yeast, you’re not making it in three hours. If we put an extra dish on the menu during service, it wouldn’t work.”

Stalker and the staff are also OK if you find the surrealness of the whole exercise entertaining.

The Welcome Bouquet led to my genuine concern for a fellow diner when he lifted the floral arrangement to his lips and drank from the vase. Food people can be odd, but this was taking it too far. I guffawed when it was finally explained.

Stalker wants you to drink the sweet nectar, like a honeybee, of the season through a straw hidden among the blooms. It’s hilarious to watch someone try to navigate their lips into the bouquet and miss the straw repeatedly (until it’s you, and then it’s even funnier), getting a nose full of blooms. It also smells lovely. You’ll receive the bouquet as a parting gift.

Guests at Second Story are greeted with a drink drawn through a bouquet of flowers with a stainless straw at the new upstairs vegan restaurant at Little Saint in Healdsburg September 8, 2023. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

At Second Story, there is no swanning maitre’d or tinkling caviar cart rolling through the dining room. Wine Director Alexandria Sarovich is as likely to be hosting or serving as she is to be arcing a stream of wine into your mouth (should you like that kind of thing) from a Spanish porron. Wine pairings and low- or no-alcohol drinks are an extra $75 and up, well worth the price for Sarovich to showcase some of her favorite pours.

It’s intimate without being awkward. An open kitchen anchors one side of the room, a stunning patio with views of the sunset over Dry Creek Valley the other.

While Little Saint’s casual downstairs cafe, lounge and bottle shop are full of overstuffed furniture (about the only thing stuffy about the space) and communal tables, Second Story has a minimalist approach: bistro-style banquettes, four-tops at the center of the room and a cozy fern-bar-bohemian vibe. The furniture is purposely restrained because of the space’s intimate music performances during the week.

So go all food nerd if you like, or simply enjoy a lovely meal at Stalker’s imaginative restaurant. The point is, after all, just to eat.

Second Story is at 25 North St., Healdsburg. Reservations for seating, 5:30 – 7 p.m. Friday through Sunday, are highly recommended. littlesainthealdsburg.com

Sebastopol Chef Turning His Tiny Taqueria Into Playful Spot for Fusion Tacos

September 2023

By Heather Irwin

Dos Tacos with two yellow tortillas, your choice of meat, topped with chipotle aioli, pico de gallo, arugula and micro greens from Barrio Fresca Cocina Mexicana in Sebastopol’s The Barlow. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Chef Carlos Rosas is ready to move on from his Mexican street food concept Barrio at Sebastopol’s Barlow, but not entirely.

In the coming weeks, he’ll close the door on the 429-square-foot taqueria nestled into a corner of the center’s food court and open Osito, with a playful take on fusion tacos. The longtime fine-dining chef said he’s ready for something different and thinks consumers are ready to ditch the repetitiveness found on menus at many Mexican restaurants.

“I’ve just noticed that so many Mexican restaurants are all serving the same thing. But everything’s changed, and people are looking for something new,” he said.

Torta el Chavo served on torpedo bread with pork belly, chipotle aioli, pico de gallo and arugula from Barrio Fresca Cocina Mexicana in Sebastopol's The Barlow. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat) — Torta el Chavo served on torpedo bread with pork belly, chipotle aioli, pico de gallo and arugula from Barrio Fresca Cocina Mexicana in Sebastopol’s The Barlow. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The full name of the new spot, Osito Style Tacos and California Cuisine, is a mouthful but conveys both the whimsy (osito means “teddy bear” in Spanish) and chef-driven menu Rosas is building. Tacos are still the main focus but will include toppings like jambalaya, carne asada with tzatziki sauce, fish and chips or chicken and waffles. However, he’s promising to keep some of his most popular Barrio tacos on the menu.

Rosas will serve locally made Mexican beers and his salsas, too. Plans are still being finalized, and Barrio will remain open until the transition.

6760 McKinley St., No. 140, Sebastopol, 707-329-6538, bariosebastopol.com