Here’s an update to what’s happening with the Sonoma Market Hall, proposed for construction in Santa Rosa…
Back in March 2010, plans were announced for the Sonoma County MarketHall, a 70,000 square-foot food market at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The $10 million proposal by Mark Rivers, CEO of Idaho-based Brix and Co., envisions a Pike Place-style retail space with 140 vendors and 100 permanent jobs for the county.
In the three months since the hall’s announcement, Rivers has been gripping and grinning around the county like a politician, trying to secure vendors, permits and general support — mostly with success, but not without a few hurdles. Highly ambitious, well-funded and potentially lucrative to the tourist trade, Rivers’ MarketHall has been met with a mix of unbridled enthusiasm, wary skepticism and mixed-allegiance by the oft-divided local food community. The truth: Not everyone knows which basket to put their eggs in.
Here’s why: Rivers’ proposal isn’t the first to tread these waters. For years, hopes have been loosely pinned to a smaller-scale food market in Railroad Square, largely tied to SMART development. Though the Railroad Square committee say they still plan to pursue the project, it just hasn’t had the momentum (or funding) that Rivers is promising. And then there are the foodie factions, each with their own ideals, politics and long-term visions for Sonoma County’s food trade — Slow Food, Farm Trails, existing farmer’s markets, chefs, producers and those of us who just love food. As several chefs have told me, it’s a minefield to know where to place your allegiance, for fear of upsetting a friend, or worse, a valued purveyor.
But the bottom line is that Rivers’ MarketHall is moving forward. With serious locomotion. BiteClub caught up with Rivers to see where things stand.
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How is this different than any of the other Markets (Ferry Building, Oxbow, etc) that, frankly, have had their share of ups and downs?
Rivers: I think the Ferry Bldg and Oxbow are pretty high-brow, gourmet food courts, more than public markets. Our MarketHall has a broader arrange of product and, will have that festive, bustling atmosphere of diverse offerings from ag, wine and food. I like to think that those two facilities are grandma’s high tea. The MarketHall is more like your Uncle’s backyard barbeque, with organized chaos, kids and something for everybody.
Who is funding this project?
Rivers: My company is self-funding this project so, we can move quickly without any handcuffs to the credit markets or other development complications. Rivers and his company were advisors on the Harrod’s Food Hall and restaurants in London, and had ownership of the Jack London Square in Oakland and its planned public market, according to documentation. The Sonoma County Fair Board are the land lessors of the facility.
Where does the project stand, currently?
Rivers said he’s currently submitting for permits, and hopes to have that portion wrapped up by the end of June. He plans to announce the first tenants to the building by July. If all goes well, he hopes to have the building completed (it’s about a five month build he says) and ready to open by summer 2011.
What’s the biggest hurdle you’re facing?
Rivers: I worry about the entitlement process that can get bogged down and sideways. We’re not asking for public subsidy and, we don’t need special treatment. I just hope that local government will see a project that is creating jobs, serving the broad public and showcasing the community.
Okay, the elephant in the room is the Santa Rosa Farmers Market at the Veteran’s Hall — which would be right across the street, potentially. How does that work?
Rivers: I’m hoping to work together with Paula (Downing, market manager for the Santa Rosa and Sebastopol Farmer’s markets). I really hope to work together on many projects. We have farmers who can’t get into the local markets and, purveyors who need retail access. We have chefs with bold ideas for new concepts and, entrepreneurs with dreams, too. This is the ultimate sales and marketing platform and, we’ll attract a broad array of folks. Rivers sees a “vertical movement up” for current farmer’s market vendors who want to graduate to a six-day-a-week permanent spot.
Why did you pick Sonoma County?
Rivers: The available bounty and the embedded food culture are the top reasons. There is so much product, its everywhere and there is lots of it. Many farmers and purveyors want and need another sales outlet. The market of locals is strong and, tourism is deep. Its ideal really.
Do you really think farmer’s can afford a stall at your market hall?
Rivers: I’m confident that we can merchandise this facility. Our proforma rental rates for a day are less than the rate card for the current Santa Rosa market. We have a built-in set of economics that works to insure success for vendors. Some higher-volume players might play close to market rents so that some smaller-volume players can comfortably exist.
What about anchor restaurants?
Rather than one or two large restaurants anchoring the market, Rivers envisions an 800 square-foot dining experience that will offer street food vendors, and “little shingles” for restaurants — sort of mini kitchens where restaurants can offer featured dishes — and an opportunity for entrepreneurs to try out dining concepts.
What’s the mix of vendors?
Rivers said the mix will be a pretty equal distribution between fresh agricultural produce (the farmers), artisan foods (like cheese, meats, olive oils, etc.) and chef-driven showcases.
What do you think you’ll bring to the food community that doesn’t already exist here?
Rivers is reaching out to chefs and restaurants, who’ve had difficulty organizing into any sort of cohesive marketing group in the past. “We’re offering what we’re calling the Chef’s Circle, a $25,000 marketing fund to promote Chef Days, cooking demos, booking signings and events at the market. We see this as a rallying point and promotion for local chefs,” said Rivers.
How will visitors get there? Will there be a shuttle from downtown?
Rivers: I think we will to connect visitors and locals alike from the traditional downtown core. We’ll also have shuttles fo seniors or those without vehicle access. We’re near bus routes and, we’re adding ped and bike access, too.
What will the building look like?
Rivers: We’ve got a great local architect, Del Starrett. We’ve been looking at design inspirations from agriculture and winery buildings. It will look and feel like Sonoma County. And, lots of outdoor patio and plaza spaces for dining, displays and families.
Hot Cheese: Grilled cheese for grownups
Happiness is just a grilled cheese sandwich away.
It’s the simplest of equations, really. Equal parts childhood memories, cheesy goodness and uncomplicated comfort food, grilled cheese is the stuff we crave in good times, console with in bad times, and return to again and again in plain old hungry times.
Given a snappy updo by the SoCo’s foodie Justice League (Chef John Ash, caterer Bruce Riezenman, SRJC’s Mei Ibach and Ian Christopher doing griddle acrobatics), Hot Cheese (“the best grilled cheese”) are crispity crunchy sandwich gold.
Ash’s first foray into street food, the concept instantly struck a chord with the team. “Grilled Cheese strikes a warm memory note for most of us plus, its timeless! We want to honor all that it can be at its very best and push the envelope a little along the way,” Ash told BiteClub.
The standard-bearer: A six-cheese blend (the secret is in the grating) on Full Circle bread. Don’t ask how much butter. Step up to Bellwether’s aged Carmody melted with sweet-tart quince paste and applewood bacon between two slices of rye. Other offerings include quesadillas (a South of the Border grilled cheese, really) and a sauerkrauty Rueben.
You’ll be hard-pressed to go astray here, even on the warmest of summer eves with the sun beating down on your perspiring brow. Even when tomato soup seems the furthest thing from your mind. Those buttery crisp crusts all but demand it.
“You do know you have to dip your crusts, right?” asks Ash.
A foot stomp and something like, “No duh silly willy” seems about the right thing to say at that moment. I refrain. But standing at a picnic table with a hot grilled cheese staining my paper plate, crunchy sweet pickles, tomato soup and lemonade on my immediate dinner agenda, it’s hard not to feel just a little childish — in the very best way I can imagine.
Hot Cheese: Every Thursday at the Windsor Certified Farm market from 5 to 8pm. Offerings will change throughout the season. The crew has already drafted a special sandwich for the Gravenstein Apple Fair (they’ll be there Aug. 14/15) with apple jack cheese, apples and curried mayonnaise. thebestgrilledcheese.com or 322-3798.
Paella: Wine Country’s Party in a Pan
The father of jambalaya, Spanish paella is a one-pot, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink sort of dish that improves with ingredients and friends to share it with. “There’s something so sweet about it, paella is a seasonal dish and incorporates whatever you have on hand,” said Gerard Nebesky of Gerard’s Paella.
The perfect party food, you’ll find four, five and even 10-foot paella (pronounced pie-a-yah) pans smoking throughout Wine Country throughout the summer event season. Historically a peasant dish of rice and game (chicken, rabbit, duck or snails), it was eaten communally from the pan. Paella’s gone high-brown since then, however, incorporating the fruits of the sea and a one of the world’s most expensive ingredients: saffron.
At it’s heart, however, its a social event waiting to happen. Here are some of the best places to find piping hot paella throughout the North Bay….
Jose Castaneda, The Paella Guy: Jose doesn’t just make paella, he orchestrates it. A serious connoisseur of traditional Spanish paella, Castaneda has spent 15 years perfecting every aspect of the dish — from the his homemade stock and chorizo to actually growing his own saffron. And don’t even get him started on the four to five days it takes to make the sofrito (garlic, onions, tomatoes, and other aromatic spices that sauté for hours or longer). A former high-tech sales rep, Castaneda spent much of his time on the road, immersing himself on lonely nights away from home with local cuisine. He now owns two Mexican grocery stores, Castaneda’s in Windsor and El Toro (113 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg, 431-9910) that have become well-known in foodie circles.
Castaneda makes a large pan of paella each Friday afternoon outside his Windsor store. “I’ve tried many recipes, but what I’ve found is that people’s perception of paella — especially when they go to Spain– is different that what we eat here. Traditional Spanish paella is all about the rice. Americans want a full flavor and they want prawns and the protein, so I make a very full-flavored paella” said Castaneda. While cooking, he gently arranges the langoustines, mussels, clams, prawns, peppers, lemon slices and shrimp with tweezer-perfect accuracy in concentric circles.
From start to finish, the process takes about an hour, during which the air is perfumed tauntingly with garlic, onions, and spices, causing curious passersby ask when the dish will be ready. “I come every week,” said one fan, looking on hungrily. Mid-conversation, as we waited, he breaks away at some imperceptible sound. “Hear the crackle?” The tell-tale sign that paella is finished: a perfect socarrat, or crispy (bun not burnt) crust that forms on the bottom of the paella pan. And not a single prawn out of place, as pretty as it is delicious.
You can find Castaneda’s paella each Friday afternoon after 4:30pm at Castenada’s Market, 8465 Old Redwood Hwy, Windsor, (707) 838-8820. He’ll also be serving up paella at the upcoming Catalan Festival at Gloria Ferrar, July 24 and 25, and is available for private events at paellaguy.com.
Gerard’s Paella: A shock of blonde surfer-dude curls are often all you can see of paella-master Gerard Nebesky through the saffron-scented steam and oogling crowds gathered around his five-foot pans. He’s used to the attention, and in fact it’s kind of his raison d’etre. “I’m kind of a social creature,” said the Occidental-based chef, who’s as much outdoor adventurer as cook. “The reason paella is so successful is because it takes a couple of hours to make it and while I’m doing that, it’s me talking with people about my trips to Spain or winemaking. People just love to go toe to toe on storytelling. It’s mesmerizing standing around and you get a real community. Everyone starts reflecting and all these anecdotes start coming out,” Nebesky added. “Socially, the paella is always successful.”
But it isn’t just his stories of daring-do across several continents that captivate. Nebesky’s paella bested culinary rock star Bobby Flay several years ago on his show, “Throwdown”, and has become the local posterboy for the Spanish one-pot dish, book months in advance for his services. “He’s made it for 15 years and was set to win that day. But his was more of a jambalaya. We do ours completely traditional. Hey, we don’t want Spaniards showing up at our events and busting our chops,” he said.
Two of his favorite paellas: Black paella, which uses squid ink to color the rice a dark purplish-black shade, and his vegetarian paella, made with an ever-rotating lineup of seasonal produce including beans, squash, peppers, asparagus and plenty of garlic.
You can find Gerard at the Occidental Farmer’s Market most Fridays, and he’ll be at the California State Fair in Sacramento with his impressive 10-foot pans July 14-August 1. Late this summer, Nebesky is planning a special community paella event in Occidental (check his site for details( gerardspaella.com) and he’ll return to the Healdsburg outpost of Oakville Grocery where he’s been a Tuesday night regular for several years.
Jackson’s Bar & Oven: Taking advantage of his massive wood-fired oven, Chef Josh Silvers recently added paella to his summer menu. the dish is made with saffron rice, prawns, mussels, peas, Spanish chorizo and piquillo peppers. “I just love the comforting flavor of this dish right now,” said Silvers. 135 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa, 545-6900
Paella del Reyes: Chef Tom Meckfessel is one of the only paella-makers to use a wood-fired grill for his portable paella parties throughout Wine Country. Using authentic Bomba or Calasparra rice from Spain, along with bilbao chorizo and local chicken, wild caught prawns and Hog Island shellfish, Tom’s artisan paella is a top pick. “It’s all about the rice,” said Meckfessel. Available for parties: 415-990-9653 or paelladelreyes.com.
Zuzu Restaurant: Locals can’t say enough about Chef Tamura’s authentic Paella del Dia made with pricey Spanish Bomba rice after 4pm daily. 829 Main St., Napa, 224-8555.
Vineyards Inn: This Kenwood tapas-spot features authentic Spanish dishes, including a paella made with chicken, clams, mussels and housemade chorizo or a fish, calamari and clam version. 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 833-4500.
Cheese Blintzes with Meyer Lemon Curd Recipe
Greg and Joan from Reno requested this lush Cheese Blintz recipe from Jeffrey Madura at Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe in Santa Rosa. With a dollop of meyer lemon curd, they’re light and divine. What Wine Country recipes would you kill for? Tell me!
This — like most chefs’ recipes — isn’t the simplest, but a little time investment will reap massive rewards. Save a little time by purchasing pre-made crepes at the store. You can purchase pre-made Meyer Lemon curd at high end grocers and specialty stores.
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Cheese Blintzes with Meyer Lemon Curd
from Chef Jeffrey Madura, Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe, Santa Rosa
24 crepes (Recipe follows) or use store-bought crepes
2 Cups Mixed Berry Sauce (Recipe follows)
2 Cups Bellweather Farms Fromage Blanc
1 Cup Gina Marie Natural Cream Cheese, softened
2 Oranges Minced zest and juice
¼ Cup Granulated sugar
¼ tsp Vanilla extract
¼ tsp Kosher Salt
1 ½ Cups Meyer Lemon Curd (see recipe)
4 Tbls Butter, melted
4 Tbls Powdered Sugar
1 pint Fresh Blueberries
1 pint Fresh Blackberries
1 pint Fresh Strawberries, cut in quarters
Prepare the crepes, or use store-bought crepes
Prepare the berry sauce and the lemon curd and set aside. Place in squeeze bottles, if you have them.
Allow the crepes to come to room temperature while you prepare the filling.
To prepare the filling: combine the cheeses, granulated sugar, orange zest and juice. Beat with wooden spoon until well combined. Add the vanilla and salt and stir until smooth.
Assembly of blintzes: spoon 2 tablespoons of the filling into the center of each crepe. Fold the bottom of the crepe over the filling and then fold each of the remaining sides over to create a small square package. Repeat until you have filled each crepe.
Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Arrange 8 blintzes at a time (seam side down) and sauté until slightly browned and crisp (about 1 to 2 minutes). Turn the blintzes and brown the other side for 1 minute. Repeat this step with the remaining blintzes, adding 1 ½ tablespoons of butter for each batch.
When all blintzes have been cooked, arrange them onto serving plates (3 or 4 to each plate). Place two large dollops of lemon curd between the blintzes and spoon the berry sauce
Berry Sauce
(makes 2 cups)
1 Cup Frozen Raspberries
1 Cup Frozen Blueberries
1 Cup Frozen Blackberries
¾ Cup Sugar, or to taste, depending on sweetness of berries
1 Tbls Lemon Juice, freshly squeezed
¼ Cup Light Corn Syrup
Combine in a saucepan the raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, sugar, lemon juice and corn syrup. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer until all the sugar has dissolved and thickened (about 8 mintues). Puree the sauce in a blender and strain through a fine sieve and taste for sweetness and the consistency of the sauce.
The sauce can be served hot or cold (it will thicken once refrigerated). Sauce will keep for 10 days refrigerated or 3 months in the freezer
Meyer Lemon Curd
(makes 1 ½ cups)
3 large Egg Yolks
3 large Eggs
¾ Cup Granulated Sugar
½ Cup Meyer Lemon Juice (freshly squeezed)
1 Tbls Freshly grated Meyer Lemon Zest
3 Tbls Unsalted Butter
Whisk together the egg yolks, eggs and granulated sugar. Whisk in the lemon juice. Cook together in a double boiler, stirring constantly until thickened (about 5 to 10 minutes). Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon zest and butter. Place the curd in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until cold (at least 30 minutes).
Crepes
(makes 24 crepes)
2 Cups All-purpose Flour
¼ Cup Sugar
½ tsp Kosher Salt
2 Cups Milk
2 large Eggs
1 Tbls Vanilla Extract (pure)
Melted butter, clarified butter or vegetable oil to coat pan, as needed
Sift together in a mixing bowl the flour, sugar and salt. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture.
In a separate bowl: blend the milk, eggs, butter and vanilla. Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and stir by hand, just until the batter is smooth. Let the batter rest in the refrigerator at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours before preparing the crepes. Strain the batter if necessary to remove any lumps before preparing your crepes.
Heat a crepe pan or 9 inch non-stick omelette pan over medium-high heat. Brush the pan with melted butter. Pour about ¼ cup batter into the crepe pan, swirling and tilting the pan to coat the bottom of the pan with the batter. Cook until the first side is set and has a little color (about 1 to 2 minutes). Adjust the temperature under the pan if necessary. Use a heat-proof rubber spatula to lift the crepe and turn it over. Cook on the other side for about 30 seconds. Remove from pan and transfer to a sheet pan that is covered with either wax paper or parchment paper. Allow to cool. Repeat process until finished with batter.
El Rinconcito Yucateco
Leave the English to Spanish dictionary at home, because panuchos, cochinta pibil , prickling fresh salsa and rellenos negro are international signs of a serious cook in the kitchen. No matter what your native tongue.
Surrounded by vacant storefronts at the western end of Sebastopol Road, El Rinconcito Yucateco modestly proves what even the most novice of food nerds knows: Authentic Yucatan cuisine ranks among the best in the New World. It isn’t by accident that many of Sonoma County’s best restaurants are staffed by cooks from this long-isolated southern tip of Mexico.
Based in ancient Mayan food traditions (corn, wild game, pumpkin seeds, chocolate, tomatoes, and chiles), the Yucatan has , over the years, commingled the foods of European trade partners and conquerors (oranges and pork from Spain, cheeses from Holland) into a complex and much-loved food culture.
So it’s little surprise that the Bohemian’s Gabe Meline wrote a touching love letter to the four-month old El Rinconcito Yucateco last April, including a short bit about Cazares’ mother sending her handmade recado negro — a sort of black paste made with burnt dried chiles that’s rarely found in the states. That kind of tease is gastro-crack for foodies, which inevitably sent legions of salivating gringos to the restaurant, including the ever-sniffing Chowhounds who’ve been hitting the restaurant en masse. So, when I order the relleno negro, it’s obvious I’m far from the first white chick to do.
“It’s soup,” says Bianca Castillo, owner Lupe Cazares’ stepdaughter, looking at me pitifully. “Yeah, I want the relleno negro,” I say. “It’s soup,” she says again, clearly trying to manage my expectations. Here’s the thing: I have absolutely no expectations. I could be ordering donkey testicles for all I know.
I must look really confused. “Soup. It’s soup,” she tells me again. “Right, I say. What about the black mole? The stuff everyone’s been talking about?” I say pointing to the Bohemian article they’ve proudly tacked on the wall. “They made a mistake. It’s soup.”
I give up. Don’t make that same mistake, because it’s one of the house specialties — a thin broth with pieces of chicken, a hard-boiled egg and secret mom-sent herbs and spices, from what I hear. A sort of Mexican pho. And nothing like donkey testicles.
What I can rave about first-hand are the fried panuchos (a sort of skinny pupusa filled with mashed black beans and fried up crispy) capped by savory pickled onions, cabbage and avocado and a special habanero sauce; Poc Chuc, slivers of pork seasoned with black pepper; and meltingly tender cochinta pibil, a spicy, oily slow roasted pork marinated in citrus that blows the pants off any pulled pork you’ve ever eaten. With chips, salsa, rice and more black beans than any human should consume, the feast set me back a paltry $30.
That kind of value translates into families, fellow Yucatan expats and neighborhood folks gathering around the tables for daily specials, sopes, an extensive selection of seafood and whatever else the family serves up each day.
El Rinconcito Yucateco is good eating no matter what the dialect.
El Rinconcito Yucateco, 3935 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. 707.526.2720.
Cocktail Recipe: Ginger Not Maryann
So maybe she was a little high maintenance. And not exactly a rocket scientist. And slightly manipulative. But Ginger was always ready for her red carpet moment — unlike someone who was just a little too old to be wearing pigtails and short shorts (even if it was a desert island). Relive those breathless moments of redheaded Tina Louise-dom with a fiery-sweet cocktail that’ll leave you as blinky-eyed as Miss Ginger.
Ginger not Mary Ann Cocktail
adapted from Ryan Horen, Bar Manager, Jackson’s Bar and Oven
1.5 oz Charbay Meyer Lemon Vodka
.5 oz Canton Ginger Liquor
.5 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
.5 oz Galangal Lemongrass Syrup (recipe follows)
.5 oz Galangal Lemongrass Syrup (recipe follows)
Ginger Ale
Combine vodka, ginger liquor, lemon juice and galangal lemongrass syrup. Pour over ice into a tall glass and add ginger ale to taste.
Galangal Lemongrass Syrup
Galangal Lemongrass Syrup
Galangal
1 stalk lemongrass
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 cup water
Galangal root is a relative to ginger, but has a woodsier, less intense quality than its spicy cousin. You can find galangal at some higher end grocers or Asian supermarkets. Lemongrass is a fragrant, citrus-scented grass native to India and used frequently in Asian cooking. To make the syrup, peel a thumb-sized piece of galangal and roughly chop the lemongrass into small pieces. Add both to a food processor to shred.
In a small saucepan, add one cup sugar to one cup water. Add the shredded galangal and lemongrass to the mixture. Slow cook for 5-10 minutes until sugar has dissolved completely and let sit over night or until completely cool. Strain well. Refrigerate.
Sonoma Golf Course Dining: The 19th Hole
Though it conjures up images of a more Martini-soaked era, dinner at the club just isn’t the crusty, plaid-jacketed affair of old. Gone (for the most part) are the rubbery chicken and mashed potato dinners or simple hot dog stands, replaced by legitimate kitchens and casual dining rooms open to the general public.
With spectacular views of the greens and outdoor patios, its a cool summertime retreat that offers up everything from simple burgers to haute Michelin-dining experiences — whether or not you actually play golf or not. Here are a few of our favorite club noshes…
Spectacular view at a great price: Charlie’s at the Windsor Golf Club
Way beyond hot dogs and beers, this club restaurant has a wildly ambitious menu ranging from seared tuna won tons, gorgonzola truffle fries, Chinese chicken salad, pizza and pasta to wild boar, hangar steaks and chicken Paillard. There’s clearly an eager kitchen at work here. And sometimes the mashup of ingredients can get a bit overeager (pulled wild boar with Crescenza cheese, sour cream, guacamole, coleslaw and tomatoes). Truth is even Gordon Ramsay would have a hard time pulling off this many disparate dishes and ingredients. But with limited dining options in the immediate vicinity, appealing to a large group of hungry golfers (and nearby Medtronic, winery and airport staff) is rarely a bad thing. Good bets include the tuna won tons, crab cake salad, steaks and burgers. Delightful views overlook the pond and greens, making for a relaxing afternoon respite. Great deal: The restaurant offers an Early Bird special Monday through Thursday. Choose an appetizer, soup or salad and entree for $18 per person from 5 to 6:30pm. 1340 19th Hole Dr., Windsor, (707) 838-7888.
Oakmont Golf Club Bar and Grille: At this chummy apre-golf hangout, fuel-up breakfasts and burgers get top votes along with weekday “afternoon delight” $2.95 appetizer specials from 2:30 to 5pm. Breakfast daily and lunch daily from 7am to 5pm; Sunday breakfast buffet from 10am to 1pm, $11.95. 7025 Oakmont Drive, Santa Rosa, (707) 539-0415.
Legends at Bennett Valley Golf Course: One of the area’s favorite courses (and most affordable) was recently overhauled to include a new clubhouse sports bar and grill. The menu is straight-up dude food, heavily weighted toward half-pound burgers, fries, quesadillas and pizza, along with all manners game-watchin’, post-play libations. The outdoor patio is the spot to be on Thursday nights from Memorial to Labor day, when the bbq gets fired up, along with live music. 3328 Yulupa Ave, Santa Rosa, 523.4111.
Links at Bodega Harbor, Bluewater Bistro: At the Sonoma Coast, you get the double breath-taker of a view, both of the greens and the ocean. Recently renovated, the Bluewater Bistro at the Links at Bodega Harbor has front row seats to some of the best views around from their dining room. Open for lunch daily and dinner Thursday through Saturday, fare is simple and straightforward — sandwiches and burgers for lunch; fish & chips, steak, pasta and pizzas for dinner. 21301 Heron Dr. Bodega Bay, 1-866-90-LINKS.
Haute Golf Club Cuisine: If you’re on the company dime, or just feeling like a splurge, these country club/resort restaurants are destinations of their own with top-ranked chefs…
Meadowood Napa Valley: The darling of critics (and two Michelin stars), Chef Christopher Kostow is giving Thomas Keller a run for his money. The pricey tasting menu (upwards of $200 per person), is a once-in-a lifetime experience through the mind of one of the most promising young chefs in the US. 900 Meadowood Lane, St Helena, 963-3646.
Also of note in Napa is the Silverado Country Club and Resort, which has recently undergone major renovations. Favorite local chef, Peter Pahk oversees both The Royal Oak, a seafood and steakhouse, and The Grill at Silverado, a more casual California-cuisine dining experience. 1600 Atlas Peak Road, Napa, 257-0200.
Carmen’s Burger Bar: Second location
Popular burgery, Carmen’s Burger Bar is expanding. A second location is slated to open near the intersection of Mark West Springs Road and Old Redwood Highway.
Fresh by Lisa Hemenway | Santa Rosa
Try as she might, Lisa Hemenway just can’t escape from food. Or maybe Sonoma County won’t let her.
“People just expect food from me,” said the long-time restaurateur from inside the shell of her country market and bistro, Fresh.
The space: Affordable, family-friendly “fast” food a la Lisa. The idea is a one-stop-shop for customers to buy pre-cut organic veggies, chicken and pork (with conveniently placed recipes for inspiration) for time-crunched home cooking; a quick dinner of mix-n-match prepared entrees and sides; or grab pre-made salads, breads, pastas or a wood-fired pizza for on-the-spot dining or picnics. Plus a wine bar. “Whether they eat in, buy prepared meals or shop for ingredients and ideas, this venture recognizes the reality of our lives and solves the what-are-we-going-to-eat problem,” said Hemenway.
The Food: Breakfast, lunch, dinner (plus wine). Prepared onsite daily are fresh breads, pastas, wood-fired pizzas, two 30-foot cases with prepared foods (salads to entrees and sides), fresh pastry shells, boxed lunches, soups. Plus: Local dairy, “pantry items” (olive oil, jams, vinegars, teas, coffee), local wines, sushi and oysters, local fruits and veggies, cheese, Flying Goat coffee, organic meats.
The space: The former grocery store is subdivided into several distinct personalities — an espresso and pastry station for morning folks (with access to the outdoor patio); a large pizza oven; massive deli cases to showcase her signature prepared foods (“I hate those ones where the meatloaf is packaged with the carrots and mashed potatoes.”); a wine bar; seafood bars (sushi, oysters); bistro-style seating for 75 and fresh produce cases. Hemenway plans to take advantage of the market’s ample outdoor seating as well. Don’t expect toilet paper or light bulbs, however, in this food-centric market.
The backstory: Now in her late 50’s, Hemenway has been an integral part of the Santa Rosa food scene since her early 20’s, first as the original sous and pastry chef for John Ash & Co, at Polka Dots in Railroad Square, and most memorably at her namesake restaurant, Lisa Hemenway’s, and gourmet takeaway, Tote Cuisine, in Montgomery Village.
Time marches on, however, and it’s been nearly a decade since Hemenway got out of the kitchen and into real estate and restaurant consulting. Rumors of her return surfaced every few years (she actually was working on a concept in Railroad Square than never quite panned out). But with the support of several local investors and backers, she’s back in the game.
This go-round, however, she’s focused on healthy family-focused eating. “It’s easy to make people love something wrapped in bacon,” she said. And of course, the market includes plenty of guilty pleasures, but Hemenway plans to highlight fresh, wholesome fruits and veggies. “If you come in here, I’m already thinking about how I can get more veggies into your kids,” she said. That is, if you can pull them away from the homemade croissants and pastries that have made Hemenway a household name around Sonoma County. Maybe teaching them moderation is a fair compromise.
At least they’re be doing it at Lisa’s place.
Fresh by Lisa Hemenway, 5755 Mountain Hawk Way, Santa Rosa
Getting My Just Desserts: Funnel Cake Fury
Upsetting a lady who works with boiling oil all day isn’t a good plan. Ever.
Apparently a poorly-conceived quip (trust me, they’re all poorly conceived) about the wonder of Harvey’s Gourmet Mini Donuts (come on, they’re mini donuts!) putting “funnel cakes to shame” (which I thought was clever, and still do) didn’t sit too well with Nancy Cordova, of Fancy Funnel Cakes.
“Maybe it is that you have not tried our funnel cakes, or you just made a hasty statement without realizing how harmful this could be for our business,” she said in a recent email. Or, maybe I wasn’t aware of the wrath of a Funnel Cake lady scorned.
Consider me schooled. Nancy’s Fancy Funnel Cakes are delightful. See the picture at right if you don’t believe me. It is most likely the sexiest funnel cake you will ever see — covered with whipped cream, caramel, chocolate and fresh strawberries. Click on it. Really. It’s delightful. If you don’t try one, you are just plain silly. I would suggest a head-to-head with the donuts just to be fair to everyone involved.
You can find Nancy and her Fancy Funnel Cakes each Wednesday night at the Downtown Santa Rosa Market. So there. Now excuse me while I go smooth things over with the cupcake gals, because I think I may have stepped on their butter cream frosted toes as well.