BiteClub has learned that Odyssey Restaurant in Windsor will be closing in July. It’s a bummer, though not totally unexpected, since chef-owner Rudy Mihal’s been hinting at a change for several months now. After two and a half years manning the stove pretty-much single-handedly, he’s ready for a break.
From Rudy, ” I’m going to go to New York for two months then Europe. I’m going to take some time off…Don’t know where I’ll reopen but it…won’t be Windsor,” he told BiteClub.
BiteClub hopes he’ll return to Sonoma County, since he’s a much-needed young chef willing to take risks — not always in abundance in the North Bay. Mihal’s talked about opening an authentic pit-bbq spot in the future. The Gramercy Tavern alum bolted out of the gate, impressing chefs and diners, but the out-of-the-way location, tiny kitchen and down-turning economy proved challenging.
Odyssey will remain open Thursday through Saturday, closing for good the second weekend of July. Rudy says he sold the business to the owners of Bangkok Villa on Yulupa Ave. in Santa Rosa.
Carneros Heritage Fest
Carneros Heritage Fest & Chef Throwdown: Napa v. Sonoma
BiteClub plans to be on hand tomorrow, May 30, as Napa and Sonoma
chefs go head to head in a competition between 10 Emerging Chefs at the
Carneros Heritage Festival.
Among SoCo’s culinary gladiators: Stark’s Steakhouse’s Tracy Shepos,
Zoi Antonitsas of Zazu, Ryan Pollnow of La Crema and Reese Heffington
of Mondo, Brandon Guenther of Rocker OyseterFeller’s is heading up the
BBQ, including lamb tostadas, chili-rubbed lamb and much more.
In addition to the food, there’ll be a falconer, sheep herders, stunt
kites, live music, cheese and of course plenty of wine. The fest is
family friendly as well.
Click here for tickets and more details
Photos courtesy of Stuart Locklear – C Stuart Locklear Photography
Traverso’s Reopens
Bless your prosciutto, Traverso’s is open again for business in the Fountaingrove Village (which several of us agree looks suspiciously like Whistler).
Despite the new digs, there’s a comfortable familiarity about the space — same open cheese case, same folks behind the counter making sandwiches and warming up meatloaf, and the very familiar TRAVERSO’S lettering and friendly sausage-toting deli-man brought from the old location (see above picture).
The wine and spirits seem to have taken on a greater importance, now fully three-quarters of the space. And cheers to that!
So go welcome them to the neighborhood. 2097 Stagecoach Road, Fountaingrove Village, Santa Rosa.
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Real Doner: The hummus among us
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There is only one polite answer to the question, “Are you hungry?” That, of course is “Yes”, no matter how full, distended or bloated one may actually feel after having crammed two falafel, several gyro, a half tray of baklava and five generous bowls of hummus into her craw over the last 24 hours in search of real Mediterranean food in the North Bay.
I blame the baklava for what happens next. “No. Not really. I’m not that hungry,” it blurts. This is clearly the wrong answer and may be why the small woman behind the deli counter at Real Doner is looking at me oddly while I fondle the menus. Crickets chirp for a moment. Time for a tactical change.
“By that I meant, what’s good?” Right answer. Before I can set down my car keys, a heaping plate of “specialties” is pushed in front of me by Doner-owner Ozkan Apaydin. Chef “Joe” Serder Besir whirls into action behind the counter, chattering a mile a minute over a steaming cauldron while several eyes watch my every nibble of the impromptu meze “You taste. What you like, I’ll give you a good price,” says Ozkan with the charm of a practiced salesman.
This is a man who (along with his wife and brother-in-law, the chef) truly, desperately, honestly wants to feed you. At a good price. Which means heck with the fuss of, well…stuff like ambiance. The former corner grocery just south of downtown Petaluma looks like a former corner grocery store. There are a handful of tables, a decorative hookah, outdoor patio in the parking lot, TV blaring Middle Eastern news and the whirling sideshow of Joe and Ozkan doing their thing. You’re here to eat and learn.
Yes, learn. Ozkan is the real deal, an immigrant and former cab driver
who brought his chef brother-in-law from the kitchens of New York to
Petaluma to cook serious Mediterranean food. You may remember him from
his brief moment as owner of Real Gyro in Santa Rosa (something about
the rent) before opening Real Doner. And no, it’s not donut misspelled.
Doner is the Turkish word for gyro (which by the way is pronounced
yer-roh. Not jy-ro.) With his wife and brother-in-law at his side,
Ozkan’s out to spread the gospel of Turkish cuisine, staring one gyro,
I mean doner, at a time.
That much of the menu requires detailed explanation is merely another
opportunity for education and discussion. All the better to get you to
try some Lahmacun, Ezme or Pilaki. And by the way, have you tried the
Hayadari?
Go with it and you will be rewarded, because straying from your comfort
zone — hummus, shish kebab, and baba ganouj, though exceptional,
aren’t where Joe’s talents really shine. Instead, veer into uncharted
waters: Cigarette Borek ($5.95), deep fried dough stuffed with feta and
parsley; Lahmacun, a Turkish pizza with ground beef ($3.95); lamb and
beef doner ($6.50); daily “specialties” like Ezme, a spicy salad of red
peppers (Joe won’t tell me what else) or red beans in olive oil and
lemon.
Just don’t ask what’s in any of it. Because Joe won’t tell you. “That’s
my secret. I’ve worked on that for 30 years,” he barks when I ask about
the hayadari — which as best I can tell is a combination of roasted
eggplant and yogurt (or more likely sour cream).
“How am I supposed to explain it?” I ask. “You tell them to come in and get it,” he deadpans.
The next minute, Joe is ladeling up some of his secret schwarma sauce
and mugging for the camera. “Taste it. Taste it! You love it, right?” I
don’t make the mistake of asking for the recipe twice.
Save room for his Bulbul Yuvasi, a bird’s nest of shredded phil stuffed
with pistachios or Kazandibi, oven-browned milk pudding. Both are a
nice addition to a strong cup of turkish coffee. At these prices, you
can afford a little indulgence.
Feeling like an overstuffed dolmas bustin’ out of my grape leaf, I
waddle out into the night with halvah-knows what in boxes and bags
they’ve stuffed with food for “my friends”. Clearly my next meal is not
top of mind. No matter. “Don’t be a stranger. You come back with your
friends. You come back tomorrow. Bring your friends,” say Joe and Ozkan
again and again.
They want to feed me. And you. At a good price.
Real Doner, 307 F. St. Petaluma, 707.765.9555.
Nonni’s Ristorante Italiano
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If there’s any question about the Darwinian nature of restaurant ownership, look to the brutal natural selection of 420 Mendocino Avenue. In three years, five restaurants have occupied the space. Four have gone the way of the dinosaur and dodo — to no one’s great surprise — quickly facing extinction after problems with staff, management and/or the kitchen. Which makes it all the more surprising that anyone would want to take over the space in these already troubled economic times.
Never question the power of a nonni to turn things around.
Borrowing the familiar term for “grandmother” in Italian*, Nonni’s Ristorante Italiano is welcoming gun shy diners from the neighborhood to the table with comforting Italian classics — a fall-off-the-bone Osso Bucco (veal shanks), veal piccata, Bolognase lasagna, and risotto. All homemade, long-simmered and served up with the care and love of an Italian grandmother — or at least a couple of Italian cousins.
Local businesswoman Karine Pollastrini deftly handles the front of the house while her Italian-born cousin Marilena Forte has commandeered the kitchen with her well-tested family recipes. Not that there isn’t some serious experimentation still going on to get things just right — like the addition of a little blue cheese to the polenta “just for a little extra flavor” and days of trying to get the Osso Bucco just right. But clearly there’s a solid foundation.
The vibe of the space, though still oddly long and narrow, gets a personal touch with family photos, fresh flowers (Karine owns a floral shop) and new wall decor. Sinatra plays the background track to your meal, though Karine says that her uncle comes in an plays accordion on the weekend. Upstairs has been revamped to feel less like an outland and more like a cozy private retreat.
Best bets: BiteClub’s continues to daydream about the pillowy homemade gorgonzola gnocchi ($13.95) for days. Lightly fried Calamari Friiti ($8.95) beg for a side of Uncle Tony’s famous tartar sauce; carpaccio ($9.95) is brilliantly done and the refreshing Insalata Cesare ($7.95) is plenty for two to share.
During lunch, Nonni’s switches out meatier fare for panini sandwiches, though all the pastas remain on the menu. Don’t miss the Mostaccioli con suga di Maile, slow cooked braised pork with sweet, tangy tomato sauce and, of course, the Osso Bucco (which isn’t always on the menu), a massive veal shank bathed in a red wine sauce over polenta. At the risk of sounding like a food geek, the kitchen’s brunoise on the veggies (a precise chop) speaks volumes to the type of investment being put into the dishes. Not to mention the warm, fresh focaccia.
Though you’ll be tempted not to, pace yourself. Portions are enormous, but missing dessert is not an option. The menu changes up daily, though BiteClub hopes that tiramisu will become a standard — made fresh with mascarpone, spongy cake, espresso and Madera. Also great was Sunday night’s caramel bread pudding. The wine list is balanced between good, large-production local wines and Italian bottles, with a nice by-the-glass list.
Whether Nonni’s can ultimately evolve into a permanent fixture in the downtown dining scene is to be seen. Meanwhile, you’ll find BiteClub pondering the question over a plate of gnocchi.
Nonni’s Ristorante Italiano, 420 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.527.0222. nonnis-ristorante.com
*There’s some debate on whether it’s true Italian. Some say Nonni means grandparents, and nonna, grandmother. Let yourself stop being too literal and embrace, in this case, that it’s a loving term for grandmother.
Henweigh Cafe + Pesto (part 2)
Henweigh Cafe
Northbay newcomers are putting final touches on the former Stella’s Cafe, which is set to reopen in early June as the Henweigh Cafe. Owner Dennis Kelly and fiancee Lois Nielsen are putting together a simple menu for sandwiches, burgers and panini for lunch and heartier pastas, ribs and steaks for dinner. They’re also planning to do Sunday brunch and a special fondue night during the week.
Located next to Mom’s Apple Pies on Gravenstein Highway, Kelly plans to keep prices affordable both for visitors along the Wine Trail to Forestville and Guerneville and locals. “We’re not a gourmet restaurant. This is a place for a family meal.”
Stay tuned for more details as opening approaches, or sign up on the restaurant’s website for news. www.henweighcafe.com
Pesto
Meanwhile, the iconic Alice’s Restaurant in Sebastopol has changed hands and is reopening as Pesto. Former owner, Alice Ferry will remain involved, behind the scenes with Jerri Luzania officially taking over the reigns. The restaurant will have a focus on local, sustainably harvested foods from a 30-mile radius of the restaurant, according to Ferry and change up frequently. True to its name, there are also plans to have up to seven different pestos on the menu. “We’re mixing flavor and healthy fun,” says Ferry. “We’re nuts about herbs.” 101 S Main St # A, Sebastopol, (707) 829-3212
Great guacamole Recipe
Less is more when it comes to perfect guacamole. Meaning that if you’re using more than ten ingredients (serious purists say more than four), you’ve run your dip ship aground.
But exactly which ingredients, other than avocados, is a matter of intense debate. Some sniff indignantly at the addition of lime, while others outrightly reject garlic or tomatoes as dance partners. Even mention sour cream in certain circles, and a brawl is likely to break out. Cream cheese? Please.
Guacamole Recipe adapted from Chef Manuel
3 ripe California Hass Avocados
Juice of one lime
1/2 tsp salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped, fresh cilantro
2 small, ripe Roma tomatoes, chopped and seeded
1/4 cup chopped white onionCut avocados in half, remove pit and scoop into a bowl. Coat with lime juice to prevent browning. Using a fork, mash the avocados. Lumpy is okay here. Add onion, cilantro, salt, pepper and tomatoes and mix gently. Serve immediately with tortilla chips or fresh tortillas.
3 ripe California Hass Avocados
Juice of one lime
1/2 tsp salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped, fresh cilantro
2 small, ripe Roma tomatoes, chopped and seeded
1/4 cup chopped white onionCut avocados in half, remove pit and scoop into a bowl. Coat with lime juice to prevent browning. Using a fork, mash the avocados. Lumpy is okay here. Add onion, cilantro, salt, pepper and tomatoes and mix gently. Serve immediately with tortilla chips or fresh tortillas.
What makes the perfect guacamole recipe is simple: Starting with ripe, tasty avocados. “The secret ingredient is California Hass avocados,” says Chef Manuel Arjona of Maya Restaurant in Sonoma, one of BiteClub’s favorite guac haunts. Along with lime, salt and pepper, cilantro and pico de gallo (a combination of tomatoes, chiles and onions), he fork mashes each order on the spot. “No garlic, no oil, no cream,” says Arjona. “That’s the Yucatan style.”
Where you go from there is a matter of taste: A dash of cumin, serrano chiles, garlic, fresh tomatoes and red or white onions. Leave the blender unplugged and employ a little wrist power to roughly smash the mixture rather than pureeing it. Traditionalists insist on using a moljacete — a black lava stone mortar and pestle — to get the best flavor.
Just promise to leave the sour cream and mayo north of the border. Add a hand-shaken margarita for best results.
Some best bets for local guacamole
A lot of restaurants really cheap out when it comes to guacamole. Avocados can be expensive, so if you’re planning to get the good stuff, expect to pay $5 to $8 for an order. Otherwise, you’re probably getting a lot of filler, and not a lot of actual avocado – which is what I find at a lot of inexpensive taquerias. Don’t waste your time on that stuff.
* Restaurant El Michoacano
Plus: Chunky, simple, authentic un-gringoed guac and some of the area’s best regional Mexican cuisine. If you can figure out the menu. Minus: No margaritas. 500 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa.
Tres Hombres Longbar and Grill
Super-garlicky guac, made fresh daily. Addictive warm chips. Top shelf margaritas.151 Petaluma Blvd S., Petaluma, (707) 773-4500
Maya Restaurant
Made to order guacamole. Authentic, fresh Mexican cuisine. And by cuisine, we don’t mean chimichangas. Serious tequila collection. What more does one need? 101 E Napa St., Sonoma, (707) 935-3500
Old Mexico
The secret to this guacamole is cumin. Pair with a coma-inducing bolle. 4501 Montgomery Dr, Santa Rosa, (707) 539-2599
I’m rarely a fan of chains, but in this case, I have to make exceptions for El Torito and Chevy’s Fresh Mexican, which both do tableside guacamole, mashing and mixing to order.
Sneak Peeks at Nonni’s & Casa Del Mar
Sneak Peek: Nonni’s
Downtown Santa Rosa gets a new addition with Nonni’s, an Italian restaurant that opened this week. It was a quick turnaround for the 420 Mendocino Ave. location that recently housed Saigon Bistro. I got a thumbs up report for their soft launch from a local culinary prof: “In a word: fabuloso! Osso bucco falling off the bone; crisp non-greasy calamari; a fabulous dessert called pesta: a custard-stuffed cookie shaped like a peach with vanilla ice cream…!” Stay tuned for more details as BiteClub hits the tables. The restaurant will be open daily for dinner and M-Saturday for lunch, staring at 11am.
Sneak Peek: Casa Del Mar
Lots of buzz about the mega-restaurant that’s been under construction at Stony Point and Todd Roads in Santa Rosa. Now open, the revamped La Strada interior features a large, full-service bar, comfy dining room and private party space, though the outdoor patio is still under construction. The new menu is as sprawling as the space, featuring dozens of seafood specials, daily menudo and birria, taco and enchilada combos and the usual Mex-American burrito/chimichanga fare. Focus, according to the owners, is on seafood (hence the name). First impressions: Great ceviche tostadas, disappointing fish tacos that were neither grilled (as advertised) or edible. 3660 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 541-6140.
Best Bread: Celebrate the yeast feast
It’s been said that there’s something magical in the air around San Francisco that makes for our special sourdough. But it’s not just sourdough. The natural yeasts that have wisely settled in the North Bay make for truly great artisan bread, something that Bread Father Peter Reinhart of Brother Juniper’s knew well. The legendary baker who launched his bread business in Sonoma County (and has since moved onto national fame), set the stage for the dense, chewy, hearth and brick-baked breads that continue to grace our tables.
Throughout the county (and beyond), all you need to do is follow your nose early in the morning to find a fresh-baked loaf of Italian ciabatta, hearty wheat, French baguettes, Scandinavian smorrebrod and of course, our native sourdough, warm and ready to eat.
Wild Flour Bread
Make the pilgrimage to this funky Freestone bakery that’s become a must-stop for the bicyclists and the beach-bound. Follow your nose to where weekenders congregate around a communal table with steaming plates of sticky buns and fruit-studded scones or chase children through the garden. Don’t leave without tucking away a dense, seeded boule and an extra fougasse stuffed with savory cheese and veggies straight from the brick oven. There’s a catch, however: The bakery is only open Friday through Monday, they don’t take credit cards and speed isn’t a virtue here, so sometimes there’s a wait. Which only heightens the pleasure of finally getting that first bite. 140 Bohemian Hwy, Freestone, (707) 874-2938.
Full Circle Baking
The secret to this Penngrove bakery’s amazing bread is the flour. Owner Keith Giusto uses organic grains milled to his specifications for his coveted loaves, along with a nearly 20-year-old Zinfandel-grape starter. Sourdough is the bakery’s trademark, though fans also go nuts for their sprouted wheat. 10151 Main, Penngrove, (707) 794-9445 and at Santa Rosa farm markets.
Continue reading “Best Bread: Celebrate the yeast feast”
Xcena’s Perogies: A Divine Affair
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What crab feeds are to Northern California, pierogi dinners are to Ohio. Instead of cracking Dungeness with a nice glass of chardonnay, we Buckeyes look forward to heapin’ helpings of cheese, sauerkraut and potato-stuffed dumplings sauteed in butter and onions. Washed down with a side of Dr. Pepper.
Mother Nature may provide the bounty of crab. But in good Eastern European families, it’s somebody’s mother making the pierogi (or perogies) – a tradition of rolled dough and savory stuffing that’s passed down from generation to generation.
In Healdsburg, it’s Mother Xcena who’s the force behind A Divine Affair’s handmade Ukranian style dumplings ($16) filled with either potatoes and cheese, slow roast pork, oxtail or sauerkraut. Daughter (and owner) Kahleen Nowak’s mans the stove, pan searing them with plenty of butter and onions — an upscale version of my Ohio favorite. Decorated with little ribbons of sour cream. Oh joy.
These rustic little pillows of deliciousness are a taste of home — no matter where you’re from.
Eastern European classics, however, are only part of the menu. Kahleen does a very beety borscht with local beets, wilted cabbage and
smoked ham hocks, but her rotating menu also includes game
hen, flank steak, duck breast and lunchtime panini and her own fresh-baked breads. Check out the menu
A Divine Affair is open for lunch (11:30am to 2:30pm) and dinner (5:30pm to 9pm) Wednesday through Saturday. Sunday brunch on their back patio starting at 11:30am and dinner until 5pm. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707.433.1035.