Boscaiolo Pizza with fontina, mushroom medley and truffle from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (Photo John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Chef Joshua Smookler tested nearly 100 pizza doughs for his new restaurant, Golden Bear Station in Kenwood, and he’s still tweaking it. The moisture, the flour, the “secret ingredient” he declines to share, the temperature of the wood-fired oven, and even the weather are all critical to the final result — a crust dotted with leopard spots, neither too burnt nor too raw, but just right.
Golden Bear Station, which Smookler owns with his wife, Heidy He, is a departure for the couple who opened the critically acclaimed Animo in 2022. Where that now-shuttered dining experience focused on live-fire cooking with Mediterranean and Korean influences and luxe ingredients like whole turbot, Golden Bear is an homage to Italy. Mostly.
He and Smookler shrug off being pigeonholed into specific categories, and the new menu, which leans heavily on gourmet pizzas and pasta, also includes a hamburger, tuna crudo, whole lamb saddle, and the Asian-inspired pork chop in dashi broth, or lobster in XO sauce with lemongrass tea, which was previously on the Animo menu. (Animo is slated to reopen in 2024 with a new concept).
A Burger Named Harlan from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Lobster XO with a table side pour of shiitake lemongrass tea over sushi rice from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
However, what binds the menu together is just how extraordinary everything is.
Take something as simple-sounding as cacio e pepe or bucatini pasta with pepper. Here, it’s elevated to include seven different kinds of pepper, giving it a spicy punch that lingers on the tongue. There’s an option to add fresh uni, adding a creamy, briny, sweet accent to the pasta that elevates it even further. Pasta Bolognese is equally impressive, with meat and tomato sauce sticking to every centimeter of the fresh pasta that’s made in-house.
Raw scallops are thinly sliced into disks and stacked in basil oil, green tomato, and finger limes, again a flavor bomb of sweet mollusk, tart citrus, and aromatic vegetable notes.
Owner Joshua Smookler finishes and checks each plate before delivering to the tables at the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Pork Chop Tonkatsu-style with sweet onion dash broth from the Golden Bear Station Thursday, January 11, 2023 on Hwy 12 in Kenwood. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Pizzas are a highlight, perfectly cooked without the bitter notes of char. The soft, chewy dough has a puffed crust and enough heft in the middle to hold onto the Boscaiola pie, topped with fresh mushrooms, sharp fontina cheese, and truffles. The pork chop is breaded katsu-style with umami-laded dashi sauce pooling under it.
He is deft at providing wine (or beer) pairings, usually featuring approachable wines that aren’t too precious to drink with the hearty dishes.
While the menu will inevitably evolve, there’s no doubt that the obsessive amount of time and practice will lead to even more revelatory menu items. That’s the draw of Smookler and He — their passion for exhaustive research on even the simplest dishes.
8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, goldenbearstation.com (no phone).
Lamb roasted over a live fire with shiso, nori, and housemade ssamjang at chef Joshua Smookler’s Animo. (Kim Caroll/for Sonoma Magazine)
Whenever I visit a new place, I’m eager to find restaurants that serve up the true flavors of the region. That’s not always an easy feat when Google-optimized lists, pumped-up Yelp reviews and sales-driven picks top the online search results.
As a longtime dining editor in Sonoma County, I want to be your guide to the essential, “most Sonoma” restaurants that locals and visitors should know. My selection of best restaurants is entirely based on the impressions of someone who has dined for a living in this area for nearly 20 years. No one paid to be on this list. I don’t accept free meals or any other compensation in return for positive reviews.
If you’re a visitor to Sonoma County, you’re in for an incredible gastronomic experience. Here, chefs take pride in using ingredients grown just miles away and that are often still warm from the sun when they reach the kitchen. This is what makes this area so special and these 30 restaurants stand out.
The selection criteria
In order to make this list, restaurants need to feature local ingredients on their menu, which should change with the seasons and reflect the land and waters around us. This list also highlights chefs whose skills and attitudes I respect.
Those are not the only qualifiers. Sonoma County also is home to a large Latino population who’ve brought the recipes and flavors of Latin America to this region. Latino chefs and restaurants are not only part of the local food scene, but continue to shape it in a significant way and therefore are also included on this list.
Not every eligible restaurant has made this list. I’ve had to make difficult choices for the sake of brevity. I hope you’ll look through sonomamag.com to find some of the great spots I’ve left out.
Please note that prices and menus change frequently — the dishes I’ve mentioned here may no longer be available by the time you read this. Click through the above gallery for favorite dishes and a peek inside each restaurant.
Sonoma Duck, Kosui pear and turnips are plated for service at Cyrus in Geyserville. (Chad Surmick/The Press Democrat)
Best Sonoma restaurants $$$$
Cyrus
Chef Douglas Keane and business partner Nick Peyton have created a mix of opulent, painstakingly-created European and Japanese small bites arranged with culinary tweezers and served on bespoke ceramic dinnerware. It doesn’t get much more pinkies up than their $295 prix fixe, 17-course meal. The minimalist restaurant interior with wrap-around windows highlights the lush vineyard setting. Tickets for the Dining Journey are released two months in advance at exploretock.com/cyrus.
Tasting menu: $295 per person (excluding wine pairings). 275 CA Highway 128, Geyserville, 707-723-5999, cyrusrestaurant.com
Single Thread Farms Restaurant
A 15-plus-course tasting menu at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant is not just a night out, it’s an event. Chef Kyle Connaughton’s micro-seasonal dishes are inspired by his time in Hokkaido, Japan, and the bounty of the restaurant’s farm. Reservations are required for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The wine list is one of the best in the area, and that’s saying something.
Tasting menu: $425 per person (excluding wine pairings). 131 North St., Healdsburg, 707-723-4646, singlethreadfarms.com
Rhubarb and green tea with almond cream from SingleThread in Healdsburg. (SingleThread)The Art of Plating dinner with SingleThread’s Kyle and Katina Connaughton. (SingleThread)
Best Sonoma restaurants $$$
Animo
(Temporarily closed — check out casual sister restaurant Golden Bear Station in the meantime)
Whole Spanish turbot is a signature here, along with Iberico pork and duck. The tiny restaurant is centered around an open kitchen with a fiery hearth that’s part of the entertainment. The menu is Basque-meets-Korean-meets-Californian and owners Josh Smookler and Heidy Mu keep things interesting by constantly updating their dishes.
Kick back in this expansive art and dining space for a craft cocktail, The Gallery Burger (a hamburger stuffed with cheese in a Bordelaise sauce) and thoughtful conversation. Watch for upcoming events that highlight environmental visionaries.
237 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7404, barndiva.com
Bloom Carneros
There’s so much to love about this Sonoma hideaway, from its welcoming dog- and kid-friendly patio to the audacious (but delicious) wines from Kivelstadt Cellars. Chef Jennifer McMurry has elevated the menu with outstanding farm-to-table dishes that reflect both season and sense of place. It’s an unpretentious way to really dive into the best of what Sonoma County has to offer, all in one spot.
Lunch entrees: $17 to $24. Dinner entrees: $24 to $41. 22900 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-938-7001, bloomcarneros.com
Central Market
Dressed in his chef’s coat, Tony Najiola looms large over the dining room — watching every dish go out, visiting every table to ensure his patrons are happy — but he never imposes. The open kitchen, dining room and bar feel airy, with views of the wood-fired oven and the line. But it’s the food, frequently sourced from Najiiola’s Muleheart Farm, that really does the talking here. Instead of foams, potions and powders, the food is just food.
The Gallery Burger with fresh thyme, gruyère, caramelized onions with a table side pour of bordelaise sauce from Studio Barndiva in Healdsburg. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Sushi Grade Ahi Tuna with avocado, kewpie and served with chips from served with Twice Removed Rosé from the taps at Bloom Carneros in Sonoma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Glen Ellen Star
This unassuming little cafe in Glen Ellen is a constant critics’ darling. Chef Ari Weiswasser’s deceptively simple wood-fired dishes showcase the best ingredients in the county, with much of his produce coming from a farm just behind the restaurant. It’s easy to shrug at simple menu items like tomato pie with esplette pepper, but it’s divine, along with seasonal wood-roasted vegetables, brick chicken or whole fish with fava leaves and new potatoes.
Entrees: $26 to $68. 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-343-1384, glenellenstar.com
The Madrona
The Madrona, formerly Madrona Manor, has become a design-forward hotel with a mix of contemporary and historic furnishings and an entirely new take on their food program. Chef Patrick Tafoya has created a food program that’s both elegant and approachable — much like the colorful dining room and outdoor patio decor. The restaurant is open to the public for brunch, lunch and dinner, offering up daytime dishes like Chicken Paillard, burgers, steak frites and pizzas and more elevated dinner menu featuring seasonal plates like black cod with caviar cream or a New York strip steak. Dinner entrees: $25 to $56. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-6700, themadronahotel.com
Table Culture Provisions (TCP) has become one of the hottest dining tickets in Sonoma County as owners Stephane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas have rolled out their Michelin-worthy seven-course tasting menu. During the Social Hour, from 4 to 5 p.m., TCP also offers an a la carte menu of snacks and larger dishes. Reservations highly recommended.
If you’re a fan of natural wines, this is one of the best places to find locally-sourced, small-batch bottles and wines by the glass. The food, however, is no afterthought at this wine bar. The menu is loosely defined as “international small plates,” so you’ll find a mix of dishes. The hummus plate is outstanding, with locally made pita. Still, the changing lineup of crudos, seasonal vegetables and larger entrees, like braised lamb shank or semolina crepes with honey butter, is outstanding.
Dinner entrees: $19 to $42. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com
The Shuckery
Raw oysters are a Sonoma County staple and I love the small, unassuming Kumamotos at The Shuckery. Dedicated to the humble oyster, this cozy cafe is a shucker’s dream. Try the Bingos, grilled oysters with Cognac, mayonnaise, Parmesan and garlic. Larger entrees, like the whole fish for two, are worth the trouble. There’s a full bar and outdoor seating.
Entrees: $20 to $43. 100 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-981-7891, theshuckeryca.com
Delicata Rings in beer batter with house ranch dip from Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Guava Sour with St. George Citrus Vodka, guava nectar, lime, estate orange oleo, Lillet, Black Salt and a mist of Absinthe from Hannah’s Bar at the Madrona in Healdsburg. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Street Social
With just six tables and 300 feet of dining space, Street Social, is unavoidably intimate, even at its busiest. Chef Jevon Martin is a chef’s chef. You’ll likely find other culinary giants nibbling away on dishes like Kurobuta pork riblets with fish sauce caramel and chicharrones, or Meyer lemon curd with brown butter crumble.
Chefs Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey, the owners of popular Quail & Condor bakery, have expanded their repertoire to include this sandwich shop by day and French bistro by night. For “Le Diner,” McGaughey plays with French classics like escargot with parsley veloute, herb salad with black sesame and coq au vin with pommes Lyonnaise. Reservations only.
Le Diner prix fixe menu: $125 per person. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, troubadourhbg.com
Valette
Chef Dustin Valette’s eponymous restaurant somehow manages to be luxurious and casual at the same time. A locals’ favorite, it features carefully curated ingredients and imaginative food experiences. Go for the “Trust Me” tasting menu that gives the best insight into Valette’s talents.
Trust Me tasting menu: $ 20 per course; minimum five courses. Entrees: $29 to $51. 344 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com
Willi’s Wine Bar
Mark and Terri Stark own seven restaurants in Sonoma County, each worth checking out, but Willi’s Wine Bar best reflects their culinary vision. While the original Willi’s burned in the 2017 Northern California wildfires, the new location serves many of the same small plate dishes, an excellent wine list and cocktails. Favorites include the goat cheese fritters, Tunisian roasted carrots and Liberty Farms duck with smoked cheddar polenta.
Shareable small plates: $8 to $21 each. 1415 Town and Country Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-526-3096, starkrestaurants.com
Le Diner at Troubadour Bread and Bistro in Healdsburg. (Emma K. Morris)
Best Sonoma restaurants $$
Americana
The Farm Trails sign hanging over Ryan and Samantha Ramey’s cozy Railroad Square restaurant is the first hint that they take farm-freshness seriously. It’s a perfect breakfast and lunch spot, offering elevated takes on diner favorites. We’re ridiculously fond of their fried chicken sandwich, bone broth French onion soup and burgers with onion rings. The couple also owns Estero Cafe in Valley Ford if you’re headed for the coast.
Dinner entrees: $18 to $39. Breakfast and lunch dishes: $15 to $25. 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548, americanasr.com
The Barlow
This 12-acre outdoor market is chock-full of excellent restaurants. You can’t go wrong with any of the 10 eateries here; fortunately, you don’t have to pick just one. Graze the day away, nibbling on anything from fried chicken, grilled cheese, tacos and pizza to oysters and sushi. And while all of that might sound a little pedestrian, you’ll be ridiculously impressed with the foodie-cheffy vibes here.
Chef Dino Bugica’s wood-fired pizzas are just one aspect of the Italian-inspired menu at his northern Sonoma County restaurant. Pasta and brick chicken are on the dinner menu, too, as is excellent house-made salumi. Don’t miss the more casual Geyserville Gun Club next door.
Entrees: $24 to $33. 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com
The Handline “Inglewood” burger features pastured beef, St. Jorge fonduta, iceberg lettuce, spicy pickle relish and thousand island on a toasted bun. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Handline was built on the site of the old Foster’s Freeze in Sebastopol and they continue to keep soft serve ice cream on the menu. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
El Milagro
This Cloverdale restaurant serves regional Mexican cuisine that makes the drive north worth it, running the gamut from pumpkin seed mole and guisado (slow-braised stew) to simple flautas and tacos. Everything is made from scratch here, following authentic family recipes.
Entrees: $20 to $22. 485 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6334, elmilagrocloverdale.com
Handline
This family-friendly, fast-casual restaurant focuses on sustainable seafood, tacos and great burgers in the coastal California tradition. Handmade corn tortillas, excellent al pastor, soft serve ice cream and fresh daily produce never fail to impress. The expansive outdoor patio is another plus.
Entrees: $15 to $23. 935 Gravenstein Ave. South, Sebastopol, handline.com
Pizza Leah
Leah Scurto puts every bit of her soul into making dough, sauce and cheese as perfect as possible. Her pizzas come in two styles: thin-crust round pies that are 12 or 16 inches or square-pan pies made in limited quantities. The Old Grey Beard is a great place to start.
Pizzas: $21 to $30. 9240 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 116, Windsor, 707-620-0551, pizzaleah.com
Rocker Oysterfellers
It’s no surprise that oysters — raw, baked or barbecued — are menu favorites here, but this unassuming roadhouse has so much more on the menu. It’s a perfect brunch or happy hour destination focusing on local seafood (crab cakes and fish tacos are insanely good), Southern-inspired classics (beignets, shrimp and grits) and cocktails.
Seasonally-inspired dishes change frequently, but this is a spot that anyone you’re dining with can enjoy. Chef Liza Hinman has broken up her menu into distinct sections with local seafood (the house-smoked trout pate rocks), local veggies (the mushroom hand pie is a must-order), pasture (steak, duck), local cheeses and sweets. Sit outside under twinkle lights on the casual patio and soak in the Sonoma vibe.
This super-buzzy restaurant, wine bar and bottle shop is all about letting yourself enjoy the mystery of the menu. The menu doesn’t dally with long, overblown explanations, but you can’t go wrong no matter what you order. Favorites include Dungeness crab roll, fried artichokes, tuna poke with fermented chile, a comforting half chicken with leeks and prunes, and crispy rice cakes with scallion-ginger sauce. Open for dinner and brunch, with unusual and unexpected small-production wines.
Fried chicken with cucumber and coconut peanut curry from Valley Bar + Bottle on the Sonoma square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Best restaurants in Sonoma $
Acme Burger
“Burger” is a state of mind here. Sure, there are plenty of excellent beef options, of the grass-fed, locally-sourced kind. But the hard-to-pick-one lineup also includes Willie Bird turkey, plant-based patties, buttermilk fried chicken, ahi tuna, Bodega rock cod and seared pork belly confit, all sandwiched between soft, sesame buns.
Single burgers are $6.75; fancier burgers, fried chicken, fried fish and BBQ pork are around $11.75. 1007 W. College Ave., Suite D, Santa Rosa; 330 Western Ave., Petaluma; 550 E. Cotati Ave., Cotati, acmeburgerco.com
Hidden away in a strip mall, this Salvadoran pupuseria isn’t the least bit fancy, but serves up some of the best “Latin fusion” dishes around. Go for the pupusas, for sure, along with sweet corn tamales and tropical burritos made with marinated meats and served with tropical salsas. Mix things up with a pupusa burger — a choice of meet sandwiched between two pupusas.
Entrees: $11 to $17. 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-242-3160, donjulioslatingrill.com
El Fogon
Come here for top-notch tacos, tortas and antojitos (snacks), plus Mexican street food faves Tostilocos, machetes (a long corn tortilla filled with meat and cheese) and pambazo (a red sauce-soaked sandwich).
Entrees: $8.99 to $15.99. Tacos: $2.99 to $4.99. 6650 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park; 623 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, elfogonca.com
A variety of Mexican dishes served at the Mitote Food Park in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Chicken pupusa combo plate with rice, beans, slaw, crema, and hot sauce from Don Julio’s Latin Grill & Pupusas in Rohnert Park. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Mitote Food Park
Roseland is the heart of Santa Rosa’s vibrant Latino community and is a must-visit for antojitos (snacks), tacos, agua chiles and tortas (among many other delicious dishes). Mitote, a new food truck park, serves up some of the most authentic Mexican food on this side of the border. You’ll find plenty of outdoor seating and a a full bar featuring mezcal cocktails at this year-round fiesta.
Most dishes are under $15. 665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, mitotefoodpark.com
Pupuseria Salvadorena
This locals’ spot, frequented by Salvadorans, serves up no-frills comfort cuisine from Latin America. Pupusas, a masa dough filled with cheese or other ingredients, are top-notch, along with fried empanadas and tamales.
Pupusas, tamales and empanadas are between $2.50 and $3.50 each. 1403 Maple St., Santa Rosa, 707-544-3141
Taqueria California
The ultimate bite of carnitas straddles the line between crispy crunch and soft, melty meat. This humble taqueria has the magic touch, avoiding the leathery, tough strips of meat that others pass off as carnitas.
Tacos are $4 to $5 each. 6560 Hembree Lane, Windsor, 707-836-4242.
Snake River Wagyu Babette with potato pave, alliums horseradish and black truffle from The Matheson in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
There’s something incredibly special about restaurants that reflect the best of farm, ranch and sea in Sonoma County. Each bite has a sense of place like no other, with ingredients often traveling less than 10 miles to reach your table.
Distilling the best of the best into one list isn’t easy, as chefs hone their skills, restaurants come and go and tastes change. But what places like Diavola in Geyserville, Barndiva in Healdsburg and Glen Ellen Star in the Sonoma Valley share are timeless characteristics of quality, service, reinvention and unique personality.
Here are 25 essential restaurants to visit in Sonoma County that honor that magical sense of place you can only find in one corner of the world, right here in our own backyard. Click through the above gallery for details.
Mike McGuire, California State Majority Leader, attends the groundbreaking for the SMART north Petaluma station last November. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
Mike McGuire is standing in a choir room at Ukiah High School, pushing to high school student government members the presently disputed belief that the political process can, does, and will improve the lives of everyday people. The state senator from Sonoma County also trades fist bumps and jokes with the young student leaders.
“Am I right, party people?” he says to punctuate his points. He greets each tardy student, despite their best efforts to slink in unnoticed. “Hey! Come on in. Nice to see you. I’m Mike,” he says. They nod and slip into the closest empty chair.
McGuire was once one of those students during his own time at Healdsburg High, where he graduated as student body president in 1997. That was just a year before he stormed into Sonoma County politics, winning a seat on the Healdsburg school board at age 19 and then rising along an unbroken line from city council member to county supervisor, state senator, Senate majority leader, and, as of Monday, president of the California state Senate.
Mike McGuire, California State Majority Leader. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
McGuire this week takes over as Senate leader in a Legislature that governs the nation’s most populated state and the world’s fifth largest economy. In order of succession, he will be third in line behind Gov. Gavin Newsom, and one of the few lawmakers in the room during the biggest negotiations of the new legislative session. He is the first person from north of Marin County to hold the position in 147 years. And he is only 44 years old.
“Look,” he says, “I will state the obvious. I’m probably one of the most unlikely individuals in the state to be assuming this role.” But the political prodigy from Healdsburg has been preparing for this moment most of his life.
First elected to the Senate in 2014, McGuire will lead a Legislature confronting a more than $22 billion dollar budget deficit, vexing rates of homelessness, and a housing affordability crisis. Though last winter eased drought concerns, more severe wildfire seasons and water issues driven by climate change lurk around the corner. Substance abuse and mental health woes and their attendant public safety concerns have put California cities in the crosshairs of Republicans nationwide, who seek to use struggling liberal bastions as national campaign fodder. And McGuire will be at the table with a governor who one day wants to be president, not to mention plenty of other state leaders who want to be the next governor.
Because of term limits, McGuire himself faces the end of his time in the Legislature in 2026 and must consider what comes next — even as he reaches this new career peak. He’s dominated every race he’s entered over the past two decades but will face far stiffer competition from fellow Democrats if he makes a run for statewide office. In preparation for the new leadership role, he’s recently been taking meetings that offer the kind of exposure and connections that anyone needs to rise in a state of 22 million voters — 35 times the number in his North Coast district, which runs from Marin County to the Oregon border.
McGuire has carved out a reputation in his district as the ever-ready emcee at public events and charity auctions, rattling off lots and hollering at bidders who are more often than not his constituents. At the moment, however, he’s making inroads with the high schoolers in Ukiah. After a half hour of policy talk and answering student questions, he urges the kids out of their seats, cajoling them into dance moves he leads. There is pushing the shopping cart (in McGuire’s version it is a wheelbarrow), plucking a pear off the tree — all performed without any music.
Remarkably, the high schoolers are into it. They surround him and join in. So on this morning in late November, California’s next state Senate president is wholly absorbed in stomping his feet leading an impromptu dance troupe of teenagers: “Can I get a ‘heck to the yeah?’ Come on everybody, let’s roll, come on party people, let’s roll. We’re going with the wheelbarrow. Everybody stop. Look at that pear tree. Grab that pear, put it in there. How about that?”
How about that, indeed.
Making inroads
High schoolers, of course, are new voters, or soon to be. But McGuire’s stops on campus also stem from a deeply rooted belief in education, and especially, the value of public schools. They are, he says, “the great equalizer.”
His home life growing up in Sonoma County, he tells people often, was not always easy. In Ukiah, he tells the students there was a “pretty dang bad divorce” when he was young. He was raised by his mother, who worked as a bank teller for 21 years, and his grandmother, a farmer whose financial support kept the family out of poverty.
Only in rare moments does he yield to delving deeper into this back story in public. More often, he is relentlessly on message, combing through notes he crams into yellow legal pads and file folders. Flip the page on the yellow pad — new issue to tackle, new resolution to seek. If thorny policy questions are his wheelhouse, ringmaster at public events his jam, then his own biography is more of a footnote. It runs all of 144 words on his Senate website.
And many of those words are devoted to the women in his life: his mother, Sherry, his grandmother, Martha, and his wife Erika, a public school principal in Healdsburg. The couple and their young son live in Geyserville, with a flock of chickens, including one named Martha for his grandmother.
When asked about his upbringing, McGuire signals his father was not around much. “I haven’t had a lot of great male role models in my life and my family,” he says. He was a poor student who, when he started at Santa Rosa Junior College, was still reading at a middle school level and battling through pre-algebra, he says. At Healdsburg High, he was no good as a football player and wound up the school mascot. A photograph in his senior yearbook captures him flashing a wide, toothy grin in a black wig with a colorful tie around his neck. “A typical look from Mike McGuire,” reads the caption. “It was a really long four years,” McGuire quips.
But he loved public school, a place where a kid whose family had no money could operate on an equal footing. Winning over others on campus is good practice for the rigors of political campaigning, and McGuire impressed. The same senior yearbook shows his classmates voted McGuire “most likely to become president.”
Mike McGuire, Press Democrat Teen Face profile subject, photographed in 1995. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
Sonoma County Democratic Party Chairperson Pat Sabo has known McGuire for 30 years, since she was his eighth grade teacher. In that classroom, he was “incredibly hyperactive,” Sabo says. Sometimes she sent him to take a lap around the track, hoping he’d burn off enough restlessness to come back inside and sit still. That energy — errant at the time — is the undercurrent of his political life now, fueling a work ethic famed among colleagues in the Capitol, who refer to him in interviews, nearly without fail, as “the Energizer Bunny.”
He’s hitched that work ethic to his political aspirations for more than two decades with unbroken success. As the youngest person to run and win a seat on the Healdsburg school board in 1998, McGuire may have met every voter in town, Sabo says. Still, it was hard to shake the image of a former class clown. “He’s doing this as a joke,” she thought at the time.
She likely wasn’t the only one. At his first board meeting, McGuire recalls, one of his new colleagues patted the young man on the head. But he quickly convinced Sabo he was far from joking about politics. At the time, she was president of the local teachers union and locked in a tough contract negotiation with the school district. McGuire spent considerable time meeting with her and other teachers, seeking to learn their perspective.
McGuire, center, works the crowd on a visit with student government leaders in Ukiah. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
After Sabo’s retirement, and after McGuire’s six years on the school board, six years on the Healdsburg City Council, and four years on the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors, she worked with him on his first Senate campaign, in 2014. He then asked her to join his staff in Sacramento, working through his first term. That term was shadowed by some of the worst wildfires to ever hit California, and McGuire’s district experienced many of them: the 2015 Valley Fire in Lake County, the 2017 North Bay firestorm, and the 2018 Mendocino Complex Fire.
McGuire was a whirlwind of action after the firestorm. Working off a model he first used after the Valley Fire, he partnered with Santa Rosa-based Redwood Credit Union and The Press Democrat to raise $32 million for 2017 fire victims. He’s spearheaded fights to hold local governments, telecom companies, and utilities accountable for their roles in the disaster.
Surrounding him then and through the ensuing two terms has been an evolving but fiercely loyal staff, several of them older women who exhibit a motherly pride in their hard-charging boss. Donna Zapata, who works in his district office in Santa Rosa and is a former head of the county’s Hispanic Chamber of Commerce, is one of them. “The mother in me, the grandmother in me, I’m very proud of him,” she says. In her view, McGuire’s hard work and pragmatism has improved Northern California and will go on to serve the entire state. “He helps a lot of people,” she says. “It ripples out.”
Stepping into huge shoes
McGuire’s predecessor in the Senate’s top job, Toni Atkins, is an ally and public champion of his who appointed him Senate majority leader in early 2022. Atkins wrote at the time that McGuire was stepping into the “huge shoes” of the outgoing majority leader. “But knowing Sen. McGuire and his energy, he will work to fill them, shine them, put in new laces, and resole them, all within two and a half minutes,” Atkins said.
His fellow North Bay representatives say that reputation is well-earned. “There is nobody harder working in either chamber than Mike McGuire, and that’s not to put anybody else down, but he is nonstop,” says state Sen. Bill Dodd, D-Napa. “It means getting up real early and starting his day and then I’ve been on calls with him at 9, 10, 11 at night. He’s not going to stop until the job is done.”
McGuire’s standing as a workhorse legislator, consensus builder, and as someone who keeps his word earned him the job. “He made no commitments — none — to get this vote,” says Dodd. “He stood on his personality, his record of accomplishments supporting (Atkins) and his position as the majority leader. There was just a lot of trust there.”
“ Look, I have always been the underdog. And I like it… Again, I don’t come from a political family. We don’t have any damn money. And it’s all about grit, being scrappy and working hard.”
McGuire shrugs off any suggestion he’s an exception at the Capitol. Instead, he ticks off the importance of the work, how much needs to be done, and the values handed down by his grandmother. McGuire describes her as a woman in the male-dominated world of agriculture, “a hard-nosed prune rancher and grape grower,” who worked, worked, and worked some more for what she achieved. “Every time my feet hit the ground in the morning, I think about my grandma,” and the lessons she imparted, he says. “Work hard. Work together. Don’t take no for an answer.”
McGuire got his first full-time job as a junior in high school. Until he became a county supervisor, which is a paid position, he had stints as a radio host and a TV news producer. “It’s no different than the majority of Californians,” he explains. “Many have two or three jobs just to be able to pay the bills. And that’s what inspires me now is to provide a better life for those who are struggling, and to be able to provide a voice to those who don’t have one and who are underrepresented in this state… I think when you see struggle as a kid, you want to be able to change that as an adult.
McGuire entered the school board race, he told the students in Ukiah, after growing frustrated with the state of his school. There were buckets around his classroom to catch water leaking through the roofs and students had to cross the campus to use the bathroom.
“I feel really frustrated when those who represent us as leaders kinda don’t listen to those who are impacted by their decisions. Am I right?” he says to a silent room. (No party people this time.)
“And I think that is a growing frustration, whether it is a school board or the president of the United States,” he adds.
Energizer bunny
McGuire keeps a schedule that would shatter most.
“Working with people gives me energy,” he says.
Watch McGuire dance with high school students, work a room at a ribbon cutting, or engage in his side gig as charity auctioneer — a whooping, pointing, shouting performance that is legendary along the North Coast — and the symbiosis is palpable. When pushing the wheelbarrow and plucking the pear, McGuire is feeding off the spontaneity and joy he sparked for the students.
One morning in early November, just after 10 a.m., McGuire is seated at the corner of a table in a meeting room in Santa Rosa. His day started with an 8 a.m. fundraiser for a long-awaited public library in Roseland. Now he is meeting with 17 mayors and council members from Sonoma County’s nine cities. The agenda is extensive and complex. Next, he and many of the other officials rush to Petaluma for a groundbreaking ceremony at the new station for the Sonoma-Marin Area Rail Transit — complete with the requisite golden shovels. By 5 p.m., he is back in auctioneer mode, cheering on donors at a fundraiser for a new charity to support public schools.
But at the 10 a.m. meeting, out of the public eye and in the company of fellow elected officials, McGuire is more listener than showman. He faces a wave of concerns about rampant homeless encampments, increasing episodes of hateful speech dominating public comment periods of local government meetings, and caps on leaders’ ability to raise revenues through sales taxes.
The central topic of discussion, however, is Pacific Gas and Electric Co., a perennial foe for North Coast politicians after a decade-long string of utility-sparked wildfires killed more than 100 people and destroyed thousands of homes. McGuire has long cast himself as a foil to PG&E, which he blames for putting shareholder profits over safety in the run-up to years of catastrophic wildfires linked to its aging electrical grid. The local municipal leaders at the meeting are worried the utility’s pace of electrifying new housing developments isn’t keeping up with the rapid pace of building, among a litany of other complaints. As Senate president, McGuire will have a much bigger cudgel.
“You’re going to see increased scrutiny on them,” McGuire promises the group of lawmakers. “We need to remind them that there are consequences for inaction.”
Speaking with a state official after the 2017 wildfires. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Once he’s Senate president, though, a dominant player like PG&E, the nation’s largest electric utility, will need and expect to be heard. And each of the 40 senators he leads are duly elected and hold their own agenda. Caucus leaders govern by reputation, cajoling, and consensus building. They cannot dictate support, and McGuire is in charge of only the Senate. The Assembly and governor are another matter.
“It’s a three-headed monster there,” says Steve Maviglio, a longtime statehouse operative who today works as a political consultant. In the power halls of Sacramento McGuire is known as pragmatic, press-savvy, and careful. “He’s got a very healthy reputation of being able to get things done,” Maviglio says. “The most overlooked role of a Senate leader is cat herding. You’re dealing with 40 people with the enormous personalities you need to be in politics in the first place. To get everybody on the same page and rowing in the same direction is no easy feat.”
At this point, it’s still impossible to know what will define the coming two years of legislating. There is always the chance of fresh crisis, whether real or political. McGuire is telling people he’s focused on results for voters, not political drama or infighting. “I’m not going to be big on political debates,” he says. “The culture war issues are a distraction and it’s a rabbit hole I will not go down. We are going to focus on policies that impact the greater good of Californians.”
Political patchwork
The nearly 1 million constituents of the 2nd Senate District where McGuire has made his mark over the past decade are now about to share him with the state. The district encompasses 10,000 square miles from the Golden Gate Bridge to the Oregon border, rimmed by a rugged coast. Much of the territory is mountainous and sparsely populated. It includes one of the wealthiest counties in the nation, Marin, and three of the poorest counties in California—Del Norte, Lake, and Trinity. It contains more than a third of the state’s 840 miles of coastline, five national forests, and a complex patchwork of rural, urban, small town, and agricultural zones.
And it is as diverse politically as it is geographically.
Del Norte and Trinity counties both went for Donald Trump in the 2020 election, with Del Norte voting Republican by more than 15 percentage points. To the south in Marin County, however, more than 82% of voters went for Biden, along with close to 75% of voters in Sonoma County. Northern California counties are struggling, and have been for decades. Humboldt, Lake, Mendocino, Trinity, and Del Norte counties may not be making national news like Sacramento, San Francisco, or Los Angeles, but they are statistically more deeply plagued by social ills, McGuire says.
On that front he has tough words for his own party. Democrats have unilateral control in Sacramento and have not lost an election for state office in 18 years. “If you look per capita at the highest rates of poverty, opioid addiction, homelessness, it’s not in urban centers,” he says. “It’s in communities like Eureka and Crescent City, and Weaverville and Hayfork, Ukiah and Clear Lake.”
With a constituent at the opening of a new affordable housing complex in November 2023. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
McGuire, like other Democratic politicians that represent the area — Assemblyman Jim Wood of Healdsburg, or Congressman Jared Huffman of San Rafael — has not come out ahead in those areas in general elections.
Like many economists, McGuire sees a connection between despairing statistics and the election results up north. “One of the reasons why I believe that Donald Trump was president is because Democrats have forgotten about rural California,” he says. “And we’ve forgotten about rural America.”
Wood, who announced this year will be his last in the Legislature, thinks McGuire’s leadership will help more of those places. His district and McGuire’s nearly mirror each other. “From my perspective, it will be very good for the district,” Wood says. “I would think that whatever I want I’m going to be able to get. Mike’s responsibility will be to the entire state of California. Will he look at rural California a little bit more? Yes, I believe he will.”
Under its canopy of redwood trees, the far northern part of the state is in many ways a microcosm of the nation. McGuire makes laps through that part of the district relentlessly.
Want to know just how relentless? Make a call up to the Trinity Alps Unified School District in Weaverville, a five-hour drive north of Santa Rosa, and ask Superintendent Jaime Green about Mike McGuire.
“The best politician in all the United States of America, that guy?” he’ll say. Other politicians that can help his district, and do, are also very good people, he adds diplomatically.
But McGuire’s special place in the district’s heart is set in concrete. In 2018, school staff discovered dangerous levels of mold at the high school and junior high school. Overnight, Green says, they had to shutter the buildings entirely. In the impoverished county, a school bond was a nonstarter. District officials were looking at busing students to a school three hours away. Desperate, they contacted McGuire.
“We called and he came running,” Green said. McGuire secured state funding for temporary housing and eventually, to replace the mold. “He walked with us from the beginning all the way until the end.” Three years later, Green said, the district had finished building two modern, “absolutely gorgeous” new campuses.
Green is a registered Republican. McGuire has “damn near made me a Democrat,” he says. “He’s got me rolling over. My wife is like, ‘What’s wrong with you?’” It will take state investment for Trinity County to improve, Green says. And so it’s no surprise that McGuire, who delivered for the school district, has won him over. They share the same view on public schooling. “We are their shot, bud,” Green says. “Public education in an impoverished area — we are what they have. I think that’s what Mr. McGuire recognizes, and that’s why he helps us.”
At the groundbreaking for the new Petaluma SMART Train station last November. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)
What lies ahead
The office of State Superintendent of Public Instruction comes up for election in 2026, just as McGuire terms out of the Legislature. So does state insurance commissioner. In 2023, McGuire opened a campaign committee for the latter office. But despite the glaring title “McGuire for Insurance Commissioner 2026,” the political cognoscenti say that at this early stage, the campaign is likely mostly a way to store political donations.
So far, it’s hardly worth asking McGuire himself.
“There’s an eternity between now and the 2026 election cycle and my priority is to work my tail off tackling our toughest challenges here in Northern California and helping to lead the state Senate as Majority Leader,“ McGuire said in a statement to The Press Democrat in August, when the newspaper reported on his new campaign committee. In September, he gave nearly the same answer to a different reporter after he was named incoming Senate president: “There is an eternity between now and the 2026 election cycle. My priority between now and then is to work my tail off…”
Runs for statewide office are daunting prospects for politicians from north of the Golden Gate Bridge. There is no massive urban population center to anchor a voting bloc. Elections are most often decided by voters in Los Angeles and the Bay Area, neither of which offers McGuire a firm base.
Leading the Senate will help him build name recognition, but his path to becoming a statewide figure in two short years is narrow, some observers say. “Being a leader of the Legislature really doesn’t give you a statewide platform or recognition,” says Maviglio, the lobbyist. “You can make your mark,” but, he says, “it’s pretty limited.”
But McGuire has been running hard his whole life. Late last year, his several trips to Southern California included meetings with Los Angeles Mayor Karen Bass, the L.A. city council president, Los Angeles County supervisors, and the head of the Los Angeles Black Worker Center. Connecting with big-city leaders has been illuminating and head spinning. “I don’t blame them, but they think, ‘What does someone from Healdsburg know about a city of 10 million?’” McGuire says.
“I approach this as I’ve always…” He stops for a moment, then shifts gears. “Look, I have always been the underdog. And I like it… And again, I don’t come from a political family. We don’t have any damn money. And it’s all about grit, being scrappy, and working hard.”
He and Erika were childhood friends. They married in 2010. Now both in their 40s, they struggled for years to have a child. Their son, Connor, turns three this year. “Having a kid has changed my life,” McGuire says, and then he chokes up and takes a long, long pause. “I don’t take this gift lightly.”
Of his son he says, “The damn kid doesn’t sleep. And he is opinionated as all get-out. He has energy — he is bouncing off the walls.”
The tasting room at Benovia Winery in Santa Rosa. (Benovia Winery)
During cold and rainy winter months, you may be tempted to hunker down on the sofa and stream until springtime. But why stay home when you can get out and sip wine in a warm and welcoming space with cozy lounge seating and a crackling fireplace? It sure beats cabin fever. Here are five winter-worthy tasting rooms that are well worth venturing out for.
Anaba Wines
Stylish and contemporary, Anaba’s Vintners House features plush sofas and armchairs, plus table seating for larger groups. There’s also a dramatic fireplace to keep you nice and toasty on rainy afternoons. As gorgeous as the space is, it just might be upstaged by the wines — a mix of Rhône varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. For a true winter warmer, try a wine and food tasting with a menu crafted by Anaba Wines Executive Chef Maria Lynn.
Seating area at Benovia Winery in Santa Rosa. (Benovia Winery)
Benovia Winery
Curved leather lounge chairs and a ceiling-high hearth invite visitors to relax and get cozy by the fire. Who wants to leave when the Ranch House tasting room offers lovely views of the Martaella estate vineyard and seated sips of Benovia’s acclaimed single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir? The winery is kicking off 2025 with a series of curated culinary events that will run throughout the year—bubbles and oysters, anyone?—so check the events calendar for updates.
Specializing in Bordeaux varieties, Lambert Bridge also boasts a tasting room featuring a large fireplace, vaulted ceilings and a bar made of a single felled redwood tree. Glass walls provide a view into the barrel room. The Barrel Room Tasting Experience is $75 and includes light food on the side.
4085 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-9600, lambertbridge.com
The fireplace at Lambert Bridge Winery in Healdsburg. (Lambert Bridge Winery)Tasting area at Lambert Bridge Winery in Healdsburg. (Lambert Bridge Winery)
Purple Pachyderm
Pachyderm Station is what Primus singer Les Claypool calls his quirky roadside tasting room on Gravenstein Highway. Casual, intimate and devoid of pretension, the joint has a saloon-meets-circus vibe courtesy of an old-timey bar, wood paneling, and a lounge corner decorated with Primus concert posters. Homey? Yes. Weird in the best kind of way? Also, yes. Thursdays through Sundays, pair Purple Pachyderm’s excellent array of site-specific Pinot Noirs with fancy hotdogs from Claypool’s own Whamola Wieners cart.
Pinot Noir specialist Siduri hosts a reservations-only tasting lounge on the Healdsburg Plaza that’s great for chilling on a chilly afternoon. It offers a variety of hip sipping spaces, from sleek leather chairs to table seating, all with a colorful, midcentury flair. Wine flights include an exploration of distinctive Sonoma County vineyard sites, a north-to-south tasting of Pinots from Oregon to Santa Barbara, and more. Pair those tasty wines with a cheese and charcuterie board, or spin some vinyl on the old-school turntable.
Siduri Wine Bar and Tasting Lounge in Healdsburg. (Siduri Wines)
A cozy and intimate sitting area in Three Sticks Wines’ Adobe tasting salon. (Three Sticks Wines)
Three Sticks Wines at the Adobe
Three Sticks’ Adobe tasting salon is housed in one of Sonoma’s oldest residences, built in 1842 by the brother of General Mariano Vallejo. Winery owners Bill and Eva Price purchased and restored the historic property in 2012, transforming it into a beautiful and unique tasting room that combines the original adobe design, including the original wood beam ceilings, with contemporary accents. Taste Three Sticks’ vineyard-driven Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines by the flight, or book a curated culinary experience.
Each representing different teams, friends (from left) Ernie Garnica, Marcell Nesmith, Mark Chavez and Jimmy Garnica toasted to an exciting Superbowl match up at Ausiello’s sports bar in Santa Rosa, Sunday February 4th, 2018. (Will Bucquoy/for the Press democrat)
Super Bowl LVIII, featuring the San Francisco 49ers and the Kansas City Chiefs, will commence at 3:30 p.m. Sunday, Feb. 11 at the Allegiant Stadium in Las Vegas, Nevada. If you’re not prepared to shell out a lot of money to see the game in person (ticket prices this year are the highest on record, averaging $12,240 for a resale ticket), but still would like to watch these two teams battle it out for ultimate football glory, we’ve got plenty of exciting local sports bars that are sure to be buzzing on game day. Click through the gallery above for details and check out the schedule here: espn.com/nfl/schedule.
Do you know more local venues that are showing the Super Bowl? Send us an email.
Basque cheesecake with vanilla macerated berries and served with an Irish coffee at Layla restaurant at MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa in Sonoma. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
As we’re fast approaching Valentine’s Day, love is in the air. Whether you’re planning a romantic dinner for two or an evening out with friends, here are some of the best restaurants and sweet treats around to celebrate the day of love. (Dinners are served Feb. 14, unless otherwise noted.)
Santa Rosa
Marla Bakery: Marla bakery is teaming up with Dan Marioni of Marioni Wines to present a five-course Valentine’s supper. Menu highlights include Kusshi Oysters, Celery Root Soup, Salt Baked Trout for Two and a Parfait of Almond-Olive Oil Cake to finish. $200 per person (including tax and gratuity). Purchase tickets at pdne.ws/4bkTNrh. 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa. 707-852-4091.
John Ash & Co.: A five-course prix fixe Valentine’s menu that begins with oysters au gratin. Then, choose between a variety of dishes for each course, including baby lettuce salad, seared sea scallop, truffle tagliatelle pasta, Angus beef and bittersweet chocolate flourless cake for dessert. $125 per person, $65 extra for wine pairing. Reserve a table at opentable.com/john-ash-and-co. 4350 Barnes Road, 707-527-7687.
Benovia Winery: Join the winery for a Paint & Sip wine-tasting extravaganza. Guests will paint a Benovia-branded wine glass during a guided tasting. The finished product will make a perfect memento of a fun Valentine’s weekend. This experience is available Feb. 14- 18. $25 for a branded wine glass. Make reservations by calling the winery at 707-921-1040. For more information, go to pdne.ws/3UmB9ZW. 3339 Hartman Lane, Santa Rosa.
Healdsburg
Dry Creek Kitchen: A five-course prix fixe menu for $175 per person, with an optional wine pairing for $95. The menu includes Tomales Bay Miyagi oyster, fluke “aguachile,” slow-poached egg, pork and pistachio agnolotti, duo of Painted Hills prime beef and a dark chocolate and red wine mousse cake for dessert. Reserve a table at pdne.ws/3HHDzLl. 317 Healdsburg Ave., 707-431-0330, drycreekkitchen.com
Hazel Hill at Montage Healdsburg: Six-course prix fixe dinner from 5 – 9 p.m. The menu includes Morro Bay oysters, sacchetti, sea scallop, golden tilefish, lamb and baked Alaska. Dinner for $225 per person, with the option to add local wines for $95 or reserve wines for $250. Call 707-354-6900 for reservations. 100 Montage Way, montagehotels.com/healdsburg
Jordan Vineyard & Winery: A romantic Caviar Tasting with a view at the Vista Point pavilion. Couples will be seated at private tables for the tasting, which features the Jordan Chef’s Reserve Caviar. Guests will also enjoy buckwheat blini and caviar accoutrements, as well as tastings of Chardonnay and Champagne. Tastings begin at 2:30 p.m. and conclude at 4:15 p.m. Available Feb. 13-16. $150 per person. Purchase tickets at pdne.ws/42iXIAV. 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com
The Rooftop at Harmon Guest House: This menu is served throughout February and includes special Dungeness Crab Cakes ($24) and Rooftop Chocolate Fondue for Two ($15) with an optional shot of liqueur ($4), along with romantic rooftop views. The Rooftop exclusively accepts walk-ins. 227 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-922-5442. harmonguesthouse.com/the-rooftop
The Second Story at Little Saint: The upstairs restaurant at Little Saint is hosting a Saint Valentine Dinner, with a special tasting menu experience. Guests can enjoy “sweet surprises from the kitchen” to the sound of live vinyl tunes from the dynamic couple DJ Paz and Gabriel. $150 per person. Reservations can be made on OpenTable. 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-433-8207, littlesainthealdsburg.com
Spoonbar: This special dinner menu complements the restaurant’s regular offerings. Menu highlights include broiled Tomales Bay oysters ($24), rack of spring lamb for two ($69) and chocolate mousse cake ($15). This dinner experience is available through Feb. 18. Reserve a table at pdne.ws/47XBIfV. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-7222, spoonbar.com
Heart-shaped pizza from Mountain Mike’s Pizza. (Mountain Mike’s Pizza)
Rohnert Park
Mountain Mike’s Pizza: Pizza filled (and made) with love. Throughout February, order a heart-shaped pizza in a lovingly decorated box. Choose one topping for the heart pizza for the same price as a large one-topping pizza. 6314 Commerce Blvd., 707-303-7474. Additional locations in Santa Rosa, Cloverdale, Windsor and Petaluma. Visit mountainmikespizza.com/locations to find the location nearest to you.
Petaluma
Seared: Three-course prix fixe dinner. For the first course, choose between a winter spinach salad or a butternut squash and pear bisque. For the main, options include filet mignon, line-caught halibut or Dungeness crab pappardelle ($70-72). For dessert, choose between a chocolate mousse cake or a pistachio pot de creme. Additionally, special starters include options such as ahi crudo or lobster toast ($20-22). Book a table at pdne.ws/3UmUyKz or call the restaurant at 707-762-5997. 170 Petaluma Blvd. N., 707-762-5997, petalumaseared.com
Sonoma
Layla at MacArthur Place: A four-course prix fixe tasting menu. Begin with an amuse of pain perdu with caviar and scallions. For the appetizer, enjoy chicories with citrus supreme, apple and chickpeas. For the main course, choose from sunchoke tortellini, scallops or NY wagyu. For dessert, choose from a Meyer lemon pudding cake or a meringue with grapefruit sorbet and pistachio butter. $185 per person. Reserve a table at pdne.ws/3UnqvlP. 29 E. MacArthur St., 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com/layla
Wit & Wisdom: A three-course prix fixe dinner. For the starter, choose between dishes such as duck wings and marinated beets; for the entree, a choice of lamb sausage pizza, surf and turf and other dishes; and for dessert, a chocolate “Cupid’s Arrow.” $95 per person. Add a wine pairing for $65. A la carte sides are also available for an extra fee. Reserve a table at pdne.ws/4bl0TMr. 1325 Broadway, 707-931-3405, witandwisdomsonoma.com
A variety of dishes at Wit & Wisdom in Sonoma. (The Lodge at Sonoma, Autograph Collection)At Wit & Wisdom in Sonoma. (The Lodge at Sonoma, Autograph Collection)The Chocolate Bar with caramelia milk chocolate and peanut butter crumble at Wit and Wisdom in Sonoma. (The Lodge at Sonoma, Autograph Collection)
West county
Farmhouse Inn: The chefs at Farmhouse Restaurant have crafted a Valentine’s Day tasting menu featuring seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients. Add-ons include curated wine pairings. $300 per person. Make a reservation at pdne.ws/47ZMmDd. 7871 River Road, Forestville. 707-887-3300.
The Lodge at Dawn Ranch: Guerneville’s The Lodge at Dawn Ranch is hosting a special dinner for Valentine’s Day. The eight-course tasting menu celebrates local ingredients and is influenced by a variety of cuisines. Expect dishes like Tomales Bay Oysters, Picanha (charcoal-grilled culotte steak, tatemada bearnaise, spigarello broccoli) and a Thousand Layer Crepe with dark chocolate, raspberry powder and hazelnut crème. $110 per person. Make a reservation at dawnranch.com. 16467 Highway 116, Guerneville. 707-869-0656.
On the coast
Coast Kitchen: Valentine’s Day dinner with an ocean view. Enjoy a five-course prix fixe dinner which includes dishes such as tuna, halibut, pan-roasted duck breast, Oak Ridge angus farm beef tenderloin, and espresso and chocolate flourless cake. $175 per person. Reserve a table at pdne.ws/3UpENCq. 21780 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-847-3231, coastkitchensonoma.com
Napa
FARM at Carneros: FARM restaurant is hosting dinners for two, featuring a seasonally inspired five-course tasting menu complemented by cocktails and local wine pairings. Expect courses like caviar and oysters and dry-aged Brandt ribeye, and finish with a passionfruit caramel cheesecake. This Valentine’s dinner is offered through Feb. 17. $165 per person. Make a reservation at pdne.ws/3UFcD6P. 4048 Sonoma Highway, Napa, 707-299-4900.
Chocolate creations from Fleur Sauvage in Windsor. (Chris Hardy/Sonoma Magazine)
Takeout treats
Cookie…Take a Bite: A gift that’s perfect for anyone, from friends and family to sweethearts. This gourmet cookie shop offers three different Valentine’s Day tins filled with a variety of treats. Choose from the Deluxe Tin with more than 16 cookies ($28.50), the Premium Tin with more than 25 ($39.50) or the Platinum Tin with more than 42 ($52). The cookies come with adorable messages and in heart shapes and flavors like chocolate, lemon and raspberry. 430 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa, 707-291-1785, cookietakeabite.com
Fleur Sauvage: Preorder by email to pick up a Valentine’s Day-themed gift box. Wow your special someone with the pink Valentine’s heart filled with 16 bonbons for $49. To place an order, email fleursavagechocolate@gmail.com. 370 Windsor River Road, Windsor, fleursauvagechocolates.com
Nothing Bundt Cakes: Choose from 13 Valentine’s Day-themed desserts and packages. Options include sweet treats like the “Conversation Hearts Bundtinis” or a “Yours, Mine, Ours” miniature cake. You can add a customized message when you place your order. Prices vary. Place orders online at pdne.ws/3SBAWAV. 266 Coddingtown Center, Santa Rosa, 707-708-4800, nothingbundtcakes.com
Moussaka from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)
People in Sonoma County seem to be crazy for moussaka, a sort of Greek lasagna layered with creamy Bechamel sauce, eggplant, tomatoes, and ground beef, that’s a rarity in these parts — which may be why Cotati’s new Greek restaurant, Mezzeluna, was completely sold out by 7 p.m. on a Friday.
Though the fledgling restaurant’s vegetarian moussaka didn’t disappoint (even though it was hard to find it under a mound of sprouts, greens and shaved carrots that concealed it on the plate — and every plate — we tried), it was a bit heartbreaking to miss out on this signature dish of great Greek restaurants.
With few authentic Greek restaurants in the North Bay, it’s understandable that moussaka is a hot item, and Mezzeluna is undoubtedly Greek, featuring classic dishes like moussaka, spanakopita, saganaki, koftadakia, avgolemono soup and souvlaki.
Lamb shank from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)Tzatziki from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)Pork chops from Mezzeluna restaurant in Cotati. (Mezzeluna)
The warm and welcoming Cotati restaurant is co-owned by chef and restaurateur Ali Cetin, a Santa Rosa Junior College culinary graduate, and chef Baki Bekci , formerly of the Four Seasons Hotel in Napa, and though it’s still early days, chef Bekci’s deftness with this Mediterranean cuisine bodes well.
Though not every dish is perfected, we were impressed by the flaky spanakopita ($9), a puff pastry filled with herbs and spinach; saganaki ($11), fried cheese topped with honey and raisins; and the crisp, grilled Branzino ($30) which was disguised by a pile of greens, making it a little hard to decipher exactly which dish was which on the table.
Dessert is joyful, and Kunefe ($12), a dessert of shredded phyllo dough filled with melted cheese and soaked in sugar syrup, is a must try. Topped with pistachio ice cream, it’s a savory and sweet finish to the meal.
Certainly there’s plenty to like about Mezzeluna, and we promise to be back for the moussaka. 8099 La Plaza A, Cotati, 707-992-0101, mezzeluna.com. Vegetarian options, children’s menu. Open for lunch and dinner.
Semla from Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma. (Stockhome)
In Sonoma County, every season has its own flavor. In the United States, almost all of our favorite foods have their own day. There’s National Pie Day, National Hamburger Day, National Pizza Day—there’s even National Baked Alaska Day.
In Sweden, where I’m from, we also like to dedicate a day—or a time of year—to our most beloved dishes. There’s Cinnamon Bun Day, All Sausages’ Day and Waffle Day. On most public holidays, including Christmas, Easter and Midsummer, we eat a lot of lox. During late summer crayfish parties, we sip schnapps and nibble on crustaceans. And on the third Thursday of August, some crazy Swedes feast on fermented herring.
For me, there’s no better seasonal treat than “semla,” a deliciously sweet Fat Tuesday bun filled with cardamom and almond paste and topped with whipped cream. Thankfully, for me and the rest of Sonoma County, you can order a semla (or “semlor,” plural – because you’ll want more than one) at Stockhome restaurant in Petaluma throughout February (also available for preorder and pickup).
Make the semla part of a “fika” with friends, a Swedish-style coffee break with some socializing. For more on how to live like a Swede in Sonoma County, check out this article from 2018.
Stockhome, 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511. Semla preorders can be made at stockhomepetaluma.com.
Crispy Kennebec Fries from the Spinster Sisters in the South A district of Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Michelin stars are well and good, but in Sonoma County, one of the most sought-after recognitions is the Snail of Approval from local chapters of Slow Food — an international organization based on the pursuit and practice of good, clean and fair food for all.
In September, 12 Sonoma County restaurants, farms and artisan producers were awarded the 2023 Snail of Approval by Slow Food Russian River and Slow Food Sonoma County North, which they will receive at the organizations’ 6th annual awards ceremony on Feb. 28 at the Sebastopol Grange. The rubrics for selecting winners each year include sustainability, ethical sourcing, environmental impacts, cultural connections, and community involvement.
“The Snail of Approval program celebrates the great achievements of establishments locally and nationally, with the goal of generating greater support for them as they incorporate Slow Food values in their businesses,” according to a joint statement from Slow Food Sonoma County North and Slow Food Russian River.
Click through the above gallery to meet this year’s Snail of Approval awardees.