The Bacon Hall of Fame Top 5

The (Image via OhSheepskin.com)Bacon Hall of Fame. I should stop right there, really. But if you caught Monday’s missive, then you already know how excited I am about the upcoming festivities at COCHON555, the concert tour for cooks and farmers and roving celebration of all things good and just about the noble swine, so hopefully you’ll bear with me for one more post.

That being said, nobody needs to hear me bang the table all over again about how much I love bacon – I mean, really, who doesn’t – so I thought I’d take a different tack and offer up my Top 5 Predictions for Sunday’s big hoo-ha, and invite you to do the same:

The PK Top 5 Predictions for COCHON555

1. There will be more tattoos than pigs at the chefs’ stations.

2. There will be bacon. Lots, and lots, of bacon.

This Mexican Restaurant in Santa Rosa serves up authentic dishes and drinks.

3. Not all diners will appreciate whole-hog butchery.

Jute Rug. (Image via Stacks and Stacks)

4. There will be at least one beautiful vegetable. But probably not many more than one.

These wines are so good they should all deserve a spot on the podium.

5. John and Duskie of Zazu, the sole Sonoma chefs in the competition, will represent their County big-time, and walk away with porcine gold.

Neutral Rug. (Image via Design Meets Style)

Who else will I see on Sunday? And what do you think will happen?!

[All photos courtesy of COCHON555]

Windsor: Whirlwind of closures, openings

 

Moxie's Yogurt
Moxie's Yogurt

Pizzeria DePaoli says farewell: Longtime town green pizzeria DePaoli’s plans to shutter March 15, 2011. According to an email sent to patrons from owner Fred Langley, who also also owned the former Langley’s on th Green, the difficult decision to close came after unsuccessful attempts to renegotiate their lease. Efforts to operate under a more viable scenario were unfruitful, he said in the letter. “I am thankful for all of your support over the years and want nothing more than the best for our community,” he added.

Truc Linh replaced by Namaste: Vietnamese restaurant Truc Linh, also on the Town Green shuttered at the end of January. Namaste Indian and Himalayan restaurant has opened in it’s space. BiteClubber Dena gives thumbs up on her first visit.

Also recently opened, Moxie’s Yogurt. More than just your average fro-yo shop, this is dessert with some tasty local cred. Owners Angie Boudro and Melissa Jinks want you to try taste combinations like Wine Country Cheesecake with local pomegranate balsamic vinegar or farm fresh tart with Handmade Pantry (you can find them at the farmer’s markets) granola. That’s not to say you won’t find Reeses Pieces, gummy worms and cookie dough, too. But along with all the usual suspects are nice surprises like lemon curd, fresh fruit (not the canned or defrosted stuff), chewy mochi bits and agave syrup. Classy. It’s all self-serve, so you can mix and match to you’re heart’s content, which you will undoubtedly do. Just don’t forget the cherry on top. 8930 Brooks Road South, Windsor. moxiesyogurt.com

Molecular Classes, Bizarre Food

Ideas in Food: White Chocolate Sheet with crab apple, parsley and wild char roe
Ideas in Food: White Chocolate Sheet with crab apple, parsley and wild char roe

Are you molecular enough for this? Madrona Manor’s Executive Chef, Jesse Mallgren will host a five course dinner on March 16, 2011 with Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot of Ideas in Food. The couple are heavy hitters in the molecular gastronomy world, consulting and teaching chefs how to work with things like Activa, liquid nitrogen and CO2, sous vide and powdered fats. Reservations required, $90 per person, $47 for wine pairings, 433-4231. Kamozawa and Talbot will also teach several classes on March 14 and 15 including a three hour session on transglutaminase, a protein to “restructure” meat an poultry; liquid nitrogen and the properties of cooking with eggs. More details and info…

That’s So Bizarre
Tonight’s Episode of Bizarre Foods includes a stop on the Sonoma Coast for, uh, raw abalone?

Cafe Azul closes

BiteClub heard late yesterday that the spacious Cafe Azul, which was a popular coffeehouse hangout for PD folks, as well as a convenient meeting place, has closed unexpectedly. The location in downtown featured art, live music and open mics, and always seemed to be humming with coffee drinkers. It’s never a happy thing to hear of closures, and I’m truly sorry to hear the news. Check out Chris Smith’s column.

Cochon 555: Win Tix

CONGRATS TO JOHN. SEE YOU THERE!

Oh, for the love of pork, it’s Cochon 555. Roasting it up Napa style.

For the third year, organizers of this national porcine-centric tour bring together five local chefs, five local vintners and five 175 pound heritage breed pigs for a whole hog experience on March 6, 2011 at the Culinary Institute at Greystone. And everyone worth their trotters will be there.

The idea: Each of the chef-teams gets a pig to prepare head-to-toe to be judged on presentation, utilization and flavor. Twenty local judges (including chefs, farmers, writers and food dorks like BiteClub) get to crown the local Prince or Princess of Porc who travels to the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen and competes in the final for King or Queen.

Local chefs competing in Napa include our own Duskie Estes and John Stewart of Zazu and Black Pig Meats, Curtis de Fede and Tyler Rodde of Napa’s Oenotri, Charlie Parker of Oakland’s Plum, Dave Cruc of ad hoc in Yountville and Brandon Sharp of Solbar in Calistoga. The pigs: Red Wattle from Walnut Keep Farm and vineyard, Mangalista from Suisun Valley Farm, Berkshire from Newman Farm, Yorkshire from Christian Brothers Ranch and Durco/Berkshire from Devils’ Gulch Ranch. Portions of the proceeds will benefit sustainable farming of heritage-breed pigs.

Getting hungry? Everyone gets a place at the table as diners feast off a whole roasted pig, sample wines, taste a variety of unique piggy products, along with local cheese and Hog Island oysters and rub elbows with local piggerati. Chef John Fink of The Whole Beast will cook three milk-fed suckling pigs brined in an apple Chardonnay fennel bath.

Think you need to be there? BiteClub’s got the hook-up. Just convince me why you and a friend should get the TWO tickets I’m holding in my hot little hands. Pig tattoos are inspiring, as are demonstrated commitments to chicharones and bacon. Add your comment below to convince me!

One winner will receive 2 tickets (value $125 each) to the event. Please make sure to use a REAL email address (which only I can see) so I can contact you if you win. Winner will be notified Thursday night, March 3 and have until noon on Friday to respond. Full rules. Good luck!

For the love of pig!

This Mexican restaurant in Santa Rosa shines with authentic, generous and flavorful dishes.If you like local food and wine, and the idea of watching an entire pig morph from carcass into dinner doesn’t scare you, then you could do worse than a Sunday afternoon spent eating and drinking alongside 5 local winemakers, 5 local chefs, and their 5 porcine victims – all from heritage bloodlines, all sustainably raised by local farmers – at COCHON555.

The main event will surely be the rainbow of piggy plates offered up by some of Wine Country’s most talented cooks, including Sonoma County locals John Stewart and Duskie Estes of Zazu Restaurant, together with wine pairings from exciting, artisanal winemakers; the truly dedicated will also have a chance to eat a whole-roasted heirloom pig, sample some swine-inspired sweets (!), and then digest over a competitive display of high-speed butchery, a sort of urban dance-off with meat cleavers. Then, after enjoying the porky fruits of all this friendly but serious competition, 20 local food professionals and we, the people, will cast votes for our local High Priest or Priestess of Pork, and send them on to the 2011 national competition.

But for all the Herculean feats of butchery, the snout-to-tail gluttony, the participants’ livers pickled in wine, it’s the pigs that will be the celebrated, if unwitting, stars, because the whole event has been conceived by founder Brady Lowe as a means of supporting the sustainable farming of heritage-breed pigs. Says Lowe,

“One event cannot change the entire food production system (not yet, anyway), but we can celebrate people who are favorably tilting the scales back towards local producers.”

And how cool is that?

Restaurant Row

Hundreds in line | Photo John Burgess, PD
Hundreds in line | Photo John Burgess, PD

I spent a long time talking to a downtown restaurant owner today. He wasn’t particularly happy to hear from me at first. With all the public hubbub around the food trucks versus the downtown brick and mortars, I can’t exactly blame him. Over the last several weeks, I’ve heard and seen a lot of unpleasantness hurled around — both in the media and behind the scenes and it is no exaggeration to say that a lot of local food industry folks are frustrated, angry, scared, confused, defensive or generally pissed off about the whole thing.

Sides are being taken and lines drawn. Public stances and private rumors don’t make for a cozy family table. But here’s the bottom line: It’s time to come together.

Munch Monday — Santa Rosa’s mobile food extravaganza that’s been at the heart of both elation and controversy — is in jeopardy. Last week Eat Fleet organizers decided to move the event to a new location at Sonoma and D Streets to placate downtown restaurant owners who felt the weekly mobile lunchtime gathering was hurting their business.

But permits have not been filed by the city allowing for that new location yet. A short term special events permit was granted for the Munch Monday event through February at the location between the post office and downtown library. Those have now have expired putting the event in a temporary limbo.

Why? The city is taking a lot of heat from brick and mortars for permitting and publicizing the event that started in January 2011. At the heart of much of the consternation are rough feelings that downtown Santa Rosa business owners weren’t consulted about the trucks or given any say in their welcome to downtown. Some businesses felt their presence made for unfair competition. Seeing potential in the exploding food truck trend perhaps the city embraced the pitch too hastily. Mindful of vocal existing business interests, yet wanting to promote new reasons for people to come downtown, they’re now between the proverbial rock and a hard place.

Meanwhile, the mobile vendors are struggling to come to terms with their own success. Demand is high, but most have ridiculously small margins between success and failure. Things like weather and flat tires wreak havoc. Food, staffing and cost of business are surprisingly steep. No diplomatic expert is being paid to champion their existence, although they’ve clearly brought a lot of folks downtown both for the novelty and for a change in their food scenery. Instead, time and energy has been spent trying to defend themselves. I’d argue wasted time that could have been better spent on expanding the event and finding creative ways to work with downtown restaurants. I’ve heard many of their ideas, which are good. They just need to find a receptive home and willing listeners.  And yes, they’ve made some mistakes, too.

Of course, the brick and mortars are facing their own more obvious challenges. The economy still stinks. February is always a terrible month for the restaurant business in Sonoma County. They’re frustrated with issues of parking and permitting downtown. Communication probably wasn’t what it should have been. I listened and talked to that downtown restaurant owner and came away with a better understanding and respect for his very real concerns and they’re not minor. There are very legitimate fears and concerns, and I appreciate the hard-work and livelihoods on the line.

But here’s the thing: The possible demise of Munch Monday isn’t going to keep anyone’s doors open. It won’t bring a flood of diners back downtown. Nor will it shut down the trucks. If Munch Monday goes away, it just makes for a void in the Santa Rosa food scene that will be filled elsewhere. Food trucks shouldn’t be a convenient scapegoat for other problems. And less money flowing into downtown isn’t in anyone’s best interest.

In my mind, there are some bigger issues to restaurants and food trucks can tackle together: Like downtown’s horrible parking situation, vulturous ticketing and creating a new unified front to diners. Talking smack in the media sounds desperate, no matter what side you’re on, and it’s just not tasty marketing.

As hard as they may be to see right now, there are some silver linings to be found in this sour pickle of a situation. The trucks have inspired downtown Santa Rosa restaurant owners to organize themselves into a formalized association. For years there’s been discussion about a restaurant cooperative, but the immediate need for a united voice, leadership and cooperative marketing has germinated this long-dormant seed.

Another hopeful ray of light is that some downtown restaurants are taking to heart some of the very things that make the food trucks so inspiring to eaters. This is a wake up call that resting on laurels is a bad plan and constant reinvention, great customer service and aggressive marketing work. When people are more excited to sit on a dirty curb and eat dim sum than to come into your restaurant, ask why.

No doubt there remains much more to told in this ongoing story – -because it’s a fight being waged in cities around the country. Downtown restaurant owners are slated to continue the conversation at Tuesday night’s city council meeting.

But whatever your stand, it’s time to come together, start listening to each other and find a way to work together for the delicious future of our city.

Sonoma County Food Forum

Sometimes a hundred Post-Its speak louder than words. Tiling a 20 foot wall of the Sonoma County Fairgrounds Showcase Cafe oversized, hand-written notes passionately outlined what local farmers want to see change in Sonoma County over the next ten years. The answer: A lot.

Bringing together more than 300 of Sonoma’s food producers, farmers, agricultural policy makers and local politicos, the inaugural Sonoma County Food Forum, held February 24, 2011, was a day-long gathering to hash out broad-reaching issues facing the local food system. Co-hosted by the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors, the University of California Cooperative Extension, Sonoma County Department of Health Services and Sonoma County Food System Alliance, it was an unlikely mix of suits and ties rubbing shoulders with muddy workbooks and jeans.

The idea: To give voice to Sonoma County’s dairies, produce farms and livestock ranches, often under-represented in the increasingly vine-covered landscape. That, and bring together the sometimes factionalized, political and geographically disparate local agricultural and food organizations in the county. 

Between several panel discussions participants engaged what may have been the most constructive part of the day: Breakout sessions that logged their needs, worries and concerns. At hand, issues like the high cost of farming, barriers to entry, continued funding deficits and increased regulation, difficulties in marketing to the local population and increased needs to feed the hungry in our own community to name just a few.

By day’s end, the group chose just a handful to present to the County Board of Supervisors for possible action: A centralized processing center, cooperative marketing, assistance with regulations and better public education. 

Want more details? Here’s an aggregated breakdown of the major issues presentd at the Forum…

1. The Public’s Engagement with local food: With up to 70% of our local foods leaving the county, there’s clearly a disconnect between Sonoma County customers and producers. Farmers say they can get better prices in Marin and San Francisco, where the audience is more eager to pay what the food costs to grow and produce. Local stores like Oliver’s and Pacific Market, along with farm markets showcase local producers, but without more education and interest, many consumers seek out lower prices at big box stores rather than looking for local foods. On the flip side, Oliver’s Market president Tom Scott said that 27% of his total revenue comes from products produced in Sonoma County.

2. Education and Financial Assistance : Food needs to be accessible. Many farmers would like to see more school gardens and relaxed restrictions on locally grown foods getting into the school lunch programs. Community garden projects remain a high priority. Many were supportive of new EBT policies at farmer’s markets to allow food-stamp clients to shop at the markets, but wanted to see accessibility to healthy, and locally grown food increase. One recommendation: School harvest days where children are encouraged to help pick and glean local foods. “The normal public is so removed from agriculture. I”d love to see five or six farms com together and have farm tasting rooms,” said Doug Beretta of Beretta Dairy. With a large number of hungry seniors, families and children in the county, efforts are also being focused on how to spread some of the bounty to those in need. “Thirty-five percent of those coming to the food shelters have to choose between food and other necessities,” said David Goodman of the Redwood Empire Food Bank. And junk food calories, he said, are almost always cheaper, citing a figure of $18.16 for 1,000 calories of nutrient rich fruits and veggies versus $1.76 for the same number of processed food calories.

3. Better processing and distribution: At the top of the list was the need for a centralized “hub” for Sonoma County food distribution. Many farmers waste precious time and money driving their produce throughout the county, when a centralized warehouse could allow for drop-off and pick-up in one location. Also high on the list: A multi-species meat processing center. Animal ranchers drive hundreds of miles to northern and central California meat-processing plants, which is stressful for the animals and costly for the producers.

4. Marketing: Several campaigns to label and market Sonoma-grown products have launched an failed over the years. Many are eager to see a new, better-funded program for cooperative marketing, also elevating the status of “Sonoma Grown” for consumers. “Sonoma County got mixed up into the world market and we lost our identity. Now we really need to sell local,” said Joe Pozzi, a Sonoma County lamb producer.

5.  Help Farmers: One of the most-discussed topics were ways to make farming a more viable profession. From creating better government infrastructures for land access, streamlining permitting, policy changes on what they categorized as burdensome laws and zoning to a more ag-friendly policy on water, more just treatment of the labor force and saving the WIlliamson Act (which provides lower property taxes for dedicated farmland). Larry Potter of Petaluma Creamery also sees the need to make commitments to future farmers. “It’s about succession,” he said. Potter said he is currently working on a large-scale plan to buy properties for young farmers willing to work the land.

6. Eco-friendliness and Biodiversity:  From solar panels to getting GMO’s out of Sonoma County, farmers are key proponents of environmental standards for the county. Monoculture and a lack of biodiversity were also key issues.  Justine Ashton, a farmer from Glen Ellen is working to build solar panels on their property. “We need clean air and clean water. Let’s tell the truth, the air and water in this county is bad,” she said.

A tavola: Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola Winery

Uncle Enrico pulls his chair up to to the table, smiles that charming half-grin of his and starts singing about the old days in Rome like Sinatra. While the kids all roll their eyes and mom grins knowingly, you can’t help but notice Cousin Giorgio in the background chewing that toothpick like he always does and filling everyone’s glasses with wine. Too bad he’s your cousin. And maybe it’s time to talk with Great Aunt Christine about that sixth martini she’s been nursing.

This is your family. At least for tonight.

Part dinner and part theater, this weekly experience launched in late January at Francis Ford Coppola’s ever-expanding Geyserville winery. Housed in restaurant, Rustic, it’s an experiment in family dining — with the family already built in. Though you may enter a stranger, the whole point of Coppola’s weekly “a tavola” is to leave as part of the famiglia.

How it works: There are no menus, no ordering. A hostess seats you (ours had a martini glass the whole night) and explains the concept. You’re in her kitchen and her family will serve you whatever she’s been cooking. Like any good Italian mama, she’s made a lot — about 20 dishes ranging from steak, pork loin and shrimp scampi to polenta, Caesar salad, green beans, beef ravioli, wild Scottish salmon, sweet sausage and, well, the list just goes on. And most of it tastes like your own Italian grandma made it.

“Family members” drop by the table on a rotating basis to see if you’d like whatever they’re serving up. Yes? However many servings you want are placed on communal plates in the center of the table and your card is noted. $7 a serving for proteins (like steak); $5 for pastas and $3 for sides. You can eat as much or as little as you like. Hint: Pace yourself. A bag of warm zeppole are brought to share when you sit down, and the food parade rarely stops from there.

For the dramatically squeamish, the concept isn’t quite as hokey or embarrassingly interactive as you might expect. As someone who refuses to play charades or engage in any sort of “interactive” theater, I can say with confidence that the cringe factor is low. In fact, it all feels pretty natural.

The staff work hard to stay in character, but also get the joke (Uncle Enrico told us he was working hard on his fake Italian accent). No one pushes it past the comfort zone, instead letting you dictate how much or little you want to engage.

So think of it as your weekly family dinner. Great food, great company, and plenty of wine. And while there isn’t a grocery bag full of foil-wrapped of leftovers, your weird cousin asking for a loan or a trunk of hand-me-downs waiting for you at the door (like your real family) you also get to sneak away without anyone pinching your cheek or telling you to call more often.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-bQ8KAZhqc[/youtube]
A tavola is held every Tuesday night from 5-9pm at Rustic, in the Francis Ford Coppola Winery. The event is quickly booking up, so reservations are strongly recommended. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, (707) 857-1485.

Cyrus Pastry Chef Nicole Plue

Pastry Chef Nicole Plue
Cyrus pastry chef Nicole Plue's Farina Fritter with Rhubarb Lime Granita. Heather irwin/PD
Cyrus pastry chef Nicole Plue's Farina Fritter with Rhubarb Lime Granita

The language of a pastry chef is one of cream, butter, chocolate and spun sugars so delicate that the merest breath can result in catastrophe.

Which may explain why, despite their rich tongue and lavish wares, pastry kitchens are often zen-like sanctuaries behind clouds of white flour, hot ovens and whirring stand mixers. Let the chef de cuisine and saucier chest-beat and take their public bows. This unique kitchen breed does their talking directly to your sweet tooth.

Lauded patisserie Nicole Plue is no exception. Chef Douglas Keane’s most recent draft to the varsity lineup at Healdsburg’s Cyrus, she quickly and efficiently presents a series of Michelin-worthy desserts every bit the equal to his artful, multi-layered dishes. No pictures of her, thanks. Just the desserts.

Butterscotch Creme Anglaise with popcorn tuile, chocolate soil and vanilla rum ice cream
Butterscotch Creme Anglaise with popcorn tuile, chocolate soil and vanilla rum ice cream

Plue’s list of ingredients and techniques is mind-blowing, though she rattles them off like the week’s grocery list. They’re inspired by a “magical” coeur a la creme (a creamy dessert), incorporating Fontainebleau (an ultra luxe sort of whipped cream), goat yogurt creme fraiche, rhubarb lime granita and fried farina fritters. There are pecan-caramelized milk chocolate covered cornflakes, a honeycomb parfait with milk chocolate mousse sprayed on top of a peanut butter milk chocolate bar and popcorn tuile (whisper-delicate cookies). I just nod my head like I know what she’s talking about, type like mad on my iPhone about and promise myself to Google it all later.

Despite the gold-plated ingredients, she describes her desserts as, “deceptively simple,” and “a party in your mouth”. This first lineup, she says, represent some of her “best of’s”.

Pastry Chef Nicole Plue
Pastry Chef Nicole Plue

Most recently from Yountville’s storied Redd and an ex-staffer at Julia’s Kitchen at Napa’s COPIA, Plue is a dessert darling. She’s been feted by Bon Apetit and the James Beard Foundation, worked in Martha Stewart’s kitchens and several notable New York restaurants. (You can read a 2005 interview I did with her while she was at COPIA here). But she won’t tell you any of that. Instead, makes sure the desserts are doing the talking for her.

Licking our fingers, the spoons and plates all we can say is: Loud and clear.

Cyrus, 29 North Street, Healdsburg, (707) 433-3311. Website