As a rule, I wince when I hear the words artisanal and Pinot Noir in the same sentence, conjuring as they do the pretension of restaurants that proclaim “house-made” and people who’ve watched the movie Sideways more than once. But exceptions prove rules, and every so often I’m lucky enough to be reminded of the origins of the term, the idea that wine-making is as much craft as science, and that small lots, made by hand, with obsessive attention to detail, can transcend the hegemony of critics and their point ratings.
Herewith, I humbly submit Exhibit A for the defense: Eric 1 and Eric 2, two dudes who comprise 2/3 of the diminutive RoadHouse Winery workforce, and who seem to insist on making tiny hand-crafted lots of exceptional Pinot Noir without cutting corners, no matter how diabolical the economics or difficult the labor. One might, if one were so affected, be tempted to call them artisans.
It’s worth noting that, while the word artisan has been in decline since the beginning of the Industrial Revolution, the word artisanal only entered the published lexicon in the early 1960s and, with more than a little irony, that the recent and meteoric rise in our usage of the latter has coincided with a precipitous decline in that of the former. To wit, I graphed the published incidence of both words over the past half-century, using Google Labs’ awesome Ngram:Surely, there’s a lesson there, something about the incessant marketing of “artisanal” products in the late 20th century occurring in parallel with the near extinction of “artisan” as a career… but I digress. This is artisanal wine-making, RoadHouse-style: To produce their first vintage, the winery staff – all 3 of them – shared a little studio above the production facility, so they could take turns running downstairs to do manual punch-downs, continuously, every 4 hours. Or this: I found out about these guys because my wife has a childrens’ dance studio, Wine Country Dance Space, down the street from their original tasting room, and it was hard not to notice a tasting room that allocates floor space to a pool table in lieu of tables of cheesy merchandise (you can get a cool T-shirt, although unfortunately not a rack of 8-ball, at their new facility by the Healdsburg Plaza).
Most of their first vintage – 2008 – has been sold out for a while now (they still have a little of their ’08 Russian River Pinot Noir and Dry Creek Zinfandel), but that’s OK, because the Erics are already pouring their exceptional 2009s, and will release them on April 1st. I tasted three ’09 bottlings, each sourced from a prime, but distinct, micro-climate within the Russian River AVA, and each of which offered a wonderfully unique expression of the region.
RoadHouse eschews “reserve” and “single vineyard” designations, preferring instead simply to make the best and most individually compelling wines they can, barrel by barrel, blend by blend, and only differentiates by the color of the label: The minimalist 2009 lineup includes a Yellow (from a variety of fruit sources), Purple (from the Windsor area, just east of Old Redwood Highway), and Black (from more westerly sites along River Road); they’re all offered at $40 pre-release, and they are all very, very good. Interestingly, although made in identical fashion (the same gentle handling, old-school techniques, and 18mo-snooze in French oak), they all have individual personalities, too, and that, as either Eric will tell you, is the whole point. If juicy, forward bright red fruits are your thing, check out the Purple, although my personal favorite, hands-down, was the Black Label, a rich slice of black forest cake in a glass, thick with black cherries, vanilla, and a darker, brooding side that I can’t quite put my finger on, but which reminds me just a little of a fine northern Burgundy, the slightest hint of the sauvage…
RoadHouse Winery Tasting Room, 240 Center Street, Healdsburg. Very highly recommended. View Larger Map
Sundays just aren’t what they used to be. Instead of a quiet day for contemplation, reflection, long-simmering pots on the stove and family gatherings, they’ve become and extension of errand-running Saturdays. Or worse, pre-work marathon of emails, phone calls and undone reports. No wonder we’re all so cranky on Monday.
It’s time to bring back Sunday. If not in total, than at least to the table. And if not by mom’s hand, then by someone who’ll put as least as much love into the meal.
Throughout Sonoma County, chefs are inviting families to gather around their tables for hearty, comforting meals, often served communally. At once new and yet a very old tradition, it’s a way to reconnect and slow down around a shared plate of food — something we all too often forget to do — to break bread with those we love.But this time, you won’t have to worry about washing the dishes later.
Shimo Modern Steak: Cyrus Chef Douglas Keane’s new steakhouse can be a bit pricey for your average night out, but on Sunday, he welcomes locals with a stellar prix fixe line-up of prime rib, brioche sticky buns and veggies for $49 per person. (241 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 433-6000).
Just down the street, locals are already flocking to the ultra casual Frank and Ernie’s. In the former Western Boot, it’s a no-frills affair with solid eats, including drop-dead delicious onion straws and Sunday prime rib for about $26. (9 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg, 433-2147). Another great spot for your Sunday meat fix: Monti’s Rotisserie and Wine Bar in Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village. A Flintstone-sized slab of smoked prime rib with blue cheese butter and potato bacon latkes. Worth an extra splurge are the restaurant’s killer cocktails, like the Red Rickey with gin, ginger beer, lime and pomegranate. 714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 568-4404.
Blue Label at the Belvedere: Miriam Donaldson and her crew are already getting rave reviews for their homey, made-from scratch cooking at Santa Rosa’s stately Belvedere. The former Humble Pie chef describes the restaurant vibe as, “Your favorite happy fat Auntie who drinks a little too much sherry.” With buffalo heads on the wall and weekly prix fixe Sunday dinners, it’s a convivial spot for families to chill before the long week ahead. Menus change weekly, but menu items include dishes like a giant soft beer pretzel, iceberg wedge with Pt. Reyes blue cheese and chicken jalapeno pie with creme fraiche. There’s usually one of Miriam’s killer pies around to finish things off. $30, 727 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 542-8705.
Santi: The popular supper club has moved to the last Sunday of each month. Served family-style, each month features favorite dishes from different regions. For February, the restaurant focuses on Emilia- Romanga region of Italy with antipasta of prosciutto di parma, tagliatelle Bolognese, a mixed grill of quail, rabbit and pork and Meyer lemon zuppa Inglese. 2097 Stagecoach Rd., Santa Rosa, 528-1549, $50 per person.
Estate: Sonoma’s cozy Cal-Italian trattoria serves up family style dinners for two or more throughout the week for $26 per person. Menus change up weekly, but include a multi-course meal with dishes like antipasti, ricotta gnocchi, roast lamb and beans with tiramisu for dessert. 400 West Spain St., Sonoma, 933-3663.
Bruno’s on Fourth: Rick Bruno’s meatloaf and mashed potatoes is as Sunday night as 60 Minutes and grandma’s fried chicken dinner. Grab a cup of Harry’s clam chowder and you’re set for the week ahead. 1226 4th Street, Santa Rosa, 569-8222.
Okay, so every night can’t be Sunday night. Suppers for every night of the week…
Monday Night Farm Suppers at Zazu: Three courses for $39 per person focus on hearty, rustic favorites like roasted lamb shoulder, and strawberry shortcake. 3535 Guerneville Rd., Santa Rosa, 523-4814.
Rustic’s A Tavola: Brand new to the table, A Tavola is part family dinner, part dinner theater at Francis Ford Coppola’s Rustic restaurant. With no set menu, roving waiters bring family-style plates around the dining room, offering up an assortment of dishes. Prices are determined by serving, so you can eat as much or as little as you’d like. Where things get even more fun: Wandering “relatives” like Cousin Giorgio, Uncle Roberto and cheek-pinching Great Aunt Christine make you feel like part of the family. Especially when someone starts singing. 5-9pm Tuesday, reservations recommended. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 857-1400.
Friday Night at Della Fattoria: Gather round the table each Friday night as Petaluma’s legendary downtown bakery stays open late and serves up hearty local fare like Osso bucco, polenta, short ribs and chicken cacciatore. Reservations are required, 141 Petaluma Boulevard North, Petaluma, 763-0161.
While any cheese-lover worth their Camembert has sniffed, savored, grated, cubed and, let’s be honest, cut a cheese or two, chances are you’ve never rolled one to victory.
In what amounts to a queso-friendly Pine Derby for les fromagistes, Sonoma’s favorite cheese lady, Sheana Davis, will host Sonoma County’s first annual Cheese Rolling contest on February 27, 2011 in the gardens of MacArthur Place. And you’re invited.
Tell BiteClub what kind of cheese would blow away the competition in this dairy derby — from an sneaky rolled chevre to a hunky aged gouda. Style points for originality, aerodynamic qualities, and creativity.
One winner will be a celebrity cheese roller during the Sonoma Valley Cheese Conference’s Cheese, Beer and Wine Tasting reception, beginning at 1:30pm on Sunday, February 27. You’ll be in the company of such luminaries as Sonoma Mayor Laurie Gallian, Chef Justin Wangler of Kendall Jackson Estate, Chef John Stewart of Black Pig Meat, and cheesemongers from the Rainbow Grocery Coop. Tickets also include and afternoon of cheese beer and wine tasting — you know, to relax after all that intense competition. While there you can also check out some home cheesemaking demos with Ricki Carroll, the self-described “Cheese Queen.”
The event is a kick-off for Davis’ annual Sonoma Valley Cheese Conference, a gathering of cheesemakers, retailers, distributors and cheese enthusiasts that runs through March 2. More details here.
Think you’ve got what it takes? Enter your comment below. My bets are on the the cheddar.
[NOTE: The following post was submitted, at my invitation, in response to Get Your Neurotoxin Off My Strawberry, which I posted on this site last week. I am presenting it as I received it, unedited and unabridged. As such, it does not necessarily reflect an endorsement by, or opinion of, me or the Proximal Kitchen blog, and should not be construed as such.]
Methyl iodide… the other side of the story
Jim Sims, Emeritus Professor and Chemist, University of California, Riverside
As the researcher who first investigated methyl iodide for use as a soil fumigant, I’m writing to share a side of the methyl iodide story you don’t often hear.
To be perfectly up front, I’m an author on the 1996 patent “Methyl Iodide as a Soil Fumigant” assigned to the University of California Regents and licensed by Arysta LifeScience North America. I do share in any royalties coming from the patent. I didn’t harness methyl iodide for use as a soil fumigant because I wanted to get rich. I began experimenting with it because farmers throughout California and the rest of the world needed a viable alternative to methyl bromide—which is being phased out because it depletes the ozone layer.
The press touts scientists who discuss the “horrors” of methyl iodide use. I have personally used methyl iodide in the lab and in the field for more than 50 years and have not had any problems. Methyl iodide does not need to be treated as illustrated on the Pesticide Action Network’s web site. It is sold in screw cap bottles like hundreds of other chemicals. PAN claims that methyl iodide is more dangerous than methyl bromide because it is more reactive. Examination of the actual chemical literature shows that methyl iodide is three times less reactive than methyl bromide.
Here are the facts: Methyl iodide is a volatile liquid which is applied to the soil before planting to control fungi, bacteria, nematodes and weeds. It is not sprayed on any crop. No crop is planted until methyl iodide has completely dissipated…about two weeks after application. The compound is applied by small crews of experienced people under plastic tarps that keep the compound in the soil as long as possible. There is no residue of methyl iodide on the crop when it is harvested and so no risk of farmworkers in the field being exposed to it. And other protective measures are taken during application to keep residents or other people from being exposed the fumigant.
The Pesticide Action Network claims methyl iodide to be a “known” carcinogen, referencing its inclusion on the California Proposition 65 list of “known carcinogens, developmental or reproductive toxicants.” Methyl iodide was added to the Prop 65 list as a carcinogen on April Fools Day in 1988. But not all agencies or organizations who study cancer are in agreement that methyl iodide is cancer-causing. There are more than 100 carcinogens recognized by the World Health Organization’s International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) cancer. Methyl iodide is not among them. In 1986 and 1987, the IARC ruled that methyl iodide is not classifiable as a carcinogen. In 1999, following a subsequent review, the Agency kept this classification intact. Also, the National Toxicology Program (NTP), another respected agency, does not consider methyl iodide a carcinogen. Neither do career scientists at the EPA…whose work at the agency long precede the “Bush-Era.” The truth is that smoking, dietary imbalances, chronic infections and hormonal factors are the most prevalent causes of cancer in our society today. And excluding lung cancer, cancer mortality rates have declined since 1950.
One should not expect that all scientists will agree on every question. Years ago, a group of scientists wrote a letter to the EPA voicing their opinion that methyl iodide should not be registered as a pesticide. The EPA responded to their letter, and explained how their assessment addressed every concern. That letter is posted on the EPA’s website. There were scientists at the EPA and at the DPR who had differing opinions. The same went for the independent Scientific Review Committee appointed by DPR. The committee supposedly overstepped their assignment and said methyl iodide could not be used safely. DPR decided it could.
Unfortunately, false and misleading information about methyl iodide continue to be circulated. In the midst of decrying its “potential effects” the opponents to methyl iodide use forget to provide a couple key facts: methyl iodide is a naturally occurring substance, produced in mass quantity by marine algae and plants. And, methyl iodide has been in use in the United States already for years in other states, without an issue.
Bottom line, I will continue to eat strawberries, grapes, peaches, carrots, plums, tomatoes, peppers and other fruits and vegetables that are grown using pre-plant fumigation with methyl iodide. At the end of the day California needs an alternative to methyl bromide. The other “alternatives” (solarization, soil disinfestation, crop rotation, steaming, etc.) are simply not effective. I believe methyl iodide is the right tool and that its registration was the right move for California.
February 19, 2011
2nd Annual Gumbo Smackdown
Kendall-Jackson Wine Center
11 am – 3 pm
$35
This fierce competition will feature our own Executive Chef, Justin Wangler, battling against other celebrity chefs from the area. Last year’s winner will return to defend his title!
Each Chef will prepare his own gourmet gumbo dish for you to sample, and you’ll toss Mardi Gras beads to the chef making your favorite recipe. The winning chef receives the prestigious “Golden Crayfish Award” trophy which they will keep for a year. The winning chef also has bragging rights as “The King of Creole Cuisine”.
Tickets are limted and will sell out. Call Connie at 1.800.769.3649 to secure your place at the Smackdown!
Wine Club members : $20 per person
Club Member guests : $25 per person
General Public : $35 per person
UPDATE: What an amazing event. So many incredible lemon dishes…too many to even taste fully.I look forward to getting some of the recipes to share!
Best in Show: Rosemary Meyer Lemon Tart
Best Sweet: Meyer Lemon Butter Cookies
Best Savory: Moroccan Meyer Lemon Tangine Shortribs
Deep in the heart of citrus season, Meyer lemons — you know, those gourmet lemons we grow here in Northern California that taste like a cross between a mandarin orange and a lemon — hang heavy on trees throughout the county.
What to do? Celebrating the tart bounty, Blue Label at the Belvedere’s Miriam Donaldson hosts the first annual Meyer Lemon Cookoff on Monday, February 21, 2011. Anyone’s eligible to enter, but ACTUAL entries must be in by high noon (727 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa). Here are some inspirations from the LA Times — 100 things to do with Meyer Lemons. (Sorry if I wasn’t clear before, but you gotta actually make the recipe and bring the completed entry by for judging).
A bevy of foodie judges (including BiteClub) will pucker up and name the Meyer lemoniest winners in the Sweet, Savory and Best of Show category. And from personal experience, I can tell you that Miriam’s contests are always a rockin’ hoot (check out my daughter’s winning Lunchbox Pie recipe).
Judging begins at 2pm and the party lasts until 4pm. Prizes and street cred to be awarded.
It was late last year, on one of those December days as bright and crisp as a good apple, when I first heard that The New York Times Company was about to be dropped from the S&P 500 like a bad habit, in order to make room for Netflix. Hark! The death of Old Media! The herald angel of New Media sings! gushed the commentator on NPR. Which is all true, of course, and the symbolism of the event – a company that made money by printing hard news since 1851 getting its butt kicked by a company that makes far more money streaming videos – so neatly captures our post-industrial zeitgeist that one can’t help but take notice.
The thing is, date-stamped so late in the decade, that moral strikes me as tedious, and almost certainly past its sell-by date; the real story in media is what happens next. But frankly I’m much more interested in food than media theory, and so it wasn’t until I came across Michael Pollan’s Out of the Kitchen, Onto the Couch that I started to see a reflection of our vintage-2011 American life in this little story of Netflix and the Times, a life considerably more devoted to watching people cook on TV than actually cooking:
The Food Network can now be seen in nearly 100 million American homes and on most nights commands more viewers than any of the cable news channels… But here’s what I don’t get: How is it that we are so eager to watch other people browning beef cubes on screen but so much less eager to brown them ourselves? For the rise of [the celebrity chef] as a figure of cultural consequence has, paradoxically, coincided with the rise of fast food, home-meal replacements and the decline and fall of everyday home cooking…
What is wrong with this picture?
In some ways, the answer to Mr Pollan is, “nothing”; if you don’t think you live a longer, more productive life because of industrialized food production, go try hunting and gathering this weekend, and let me know how it turns out. But that’s hardly the whole answer because, as Mr Pollan argues at length, the costs – to our bodies, our families, our environment, and even our aesthetics – are real, and rising. So what has that got to do with movies and newspapers?
Look, I like movies. I like newspapers. I even like that I can warm up a frozen pizza, when I don’t have time to cook. But I also believe that we’re making some questionable choices about how we spend our time, and that the consequences may be profound. I’m sure we’ve all seen the BLS data in one form or another, but it bears repeating: We’re awake for an average of 15 hours a day. Within that 15 hours – what I would call our lives – our two most time-intensive activities are working (3.5 hours) and watching television (3 hours). No other single category comes close, although we do spend about an hour and a quarter consuming food and drink. Actual food preparation – which includes, rightly or wrongly, microwaving pizza pockets as well as washing the dishes – comes in at a mere 32 minutes, 24 seconds, or about half of an episode of Top Chef. And reading? I suppose it’s telling that reading no longer warrants a line in the survey.
Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola winery in Geyserville
Celebrate the delicious good fortune of living in Wine Country February 21-27 as local chefs to put their best plates forward during Sonoma County Restaurant Week.
Now in its second year, it’s a week long eat-fest with nearly 100 county restaurants participating. Three-course prix fixe menus are set at $19, $29 or $39, with each restaurant choosing it’s own price point.
The dining kicks off on Monday, and there are no tickets or passes required. Just head out for whatever sounds good. There are some tasty deals to be found, along with some ambitious menus from chefs who want to see you come back. Reservations are recommended, especially on busy weekend nights.
For more details and menus check out the Sonoma County Restaurant Week website at sonomacountyrestaurantweek.org. (Note, the site has been timing out and painfully slow most of the day, ugh!)
Here are some spots to check out…I’ll be updating this page throughout the next 10 days or so, adding thoughts, menus, etc.
New at the Table
What’s new? These restaurants have either made a recent Sonoma County debut or have something new to offer (like a new chef in the kitchen). Consider giving them a first look.
Geyserville Rustic, $39:A bit of a haul from Santa Rosa, Francis Ford Coppola’s winery restaurant was well worth the wait. The menu is inspired by family recipes and his travels around the world, and the views are breathtakingly spectacular. On the RW menu, french fried zucchini, the popular chicken mattone, New York strip steak, pizza Sofia and the dreamy chocolate mousse al “Francis Francis’. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, (707) 857-1485
Catelli’s, $19, $29: This longtime Italian restaurant recently took up residence in Geyserville in the former Santi space. The $19 menu features a 10-layer lasagna and sourdough bread pudding; the $29 menu a white-wine, garlic and rosemary chick or grilled tri-tip. 21047 Geyserville Ave, Geyserville, 857-3471.
Blue Label (Jeff Kan Lee/PD)
Santa Rosa Blue Label at the Belvedere, $29:There’s plenty of buzz around this funky comfort food eatery from the former Humble Pie crew. The far-from-stodgy vibe includes a toasty fireplace, record player and buffalo-head mascot. To eat: Meyer lemon & basil salad; soda pop lamb (slow braised shoulder with cheesy grits) or vegetarian-friendly buckwheat crepes and veggies; candied kumquats and vanilla ice cream. 727 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 542-8705.
Santi, $29: The departure of longtime chef Liza Hinman has put longtime sous Doug Richey in the driver’s seat. The RW lineup includes antipasti, sugo Calabrese with spaghettini, lemon tart. 2097 Stagecoach Rd., Santa Rosa, 528-1549.
Fresh By Lisa Hemenway, $19, $29: Part marketplace, part cafe, local food personality Lisa Hemenway never disappoints. $19 menu: Organic greens; meatloaf and mashed potatoes or pot pie; $29 menu includes baked brie with garlic jalapeno pepper jelly, grilled salmon or skirt steak, lemon pie. 5755 Mountain Hawk Dr., Santa Rosa.
Healdsburg
Cocktails at Spoonbar
SpoonBar, $29: Ultra-mod dining at the h2hotel, Chef Rudy Mihal’s brick chicken with lemon and couscous rarely fails to impress. Don’t miss a cocktail from drink-whiz Scottie Beattie as long as you’re there. Kobe beef shortribs, pork terrine, California sea bass, brick chicken, gnocchi with duck ragout, flourless chocolate torte. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-7222.
Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, $29: Pizzas and straightforward Italian faves quickly made this a local hangout. Arugula salad, veal saltimbocco and tiramisu. 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-8111.
Sebastopol French Garden, $39: A new exec chef seems to finally have this Sebastopol sleeper on track. Sunchoke bisque, grilled Creekstone sirloine with roasemary roasted potatoes, riccota gnocchi with black truffle butter, hazelnut cake with chocolate mousse, passion fruit coulis. 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 824-2030.
Peter Lowell’s, $19:This sustainable restaurant has a new chef in the kitchen and a more inclusive menu to please veggie and meat lovers alike. Citrus salad with yogurt mint vinaigrette, thin crust Neopolitan pizza, shepherd’s pie with local ground beef, carrots, onions and mashed potatoes, chocolate budino. 7385 Healdsburg Ave, Sebastopol, 829-1077.
Under the Radar
These aren’t your usual suspects. Neighborhood or off-the-beaten path restaurants worth checking out.
Glen Ellen Inn, $19: Artichoke and Stilton ravioli, chocolate mousse; $29 grilled romaine salad, mussels with garlic fries, housemade vanilla sundae. 13670 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen, 996-6409.
Bruno’s On Fourth, $29:Harry’s clam chowder, wedge salad with applewood smoked bacon; Dungeness crab fettucine, Niman ranch chicken parmesan, meatloaf with mashed potatoes. 1226 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 569-8222.
Seared Ahi Tuna Won Tons at Charley's
Charlie’s at the Windsor Golf Course, $29: Mostly a clubby, business-lunch sort of spot, there’s clearly some major ambition in the kitchen. Green chile and roasted corn polenta; roasted garlic flatbread with fig jam; honey and lemon brined buttermilk fried chicken, pork chops, gnocchi with Andoille sausage; fried cheesecake, crepes with Grand Marnier strawberry compote. 1320 19th Hole Dr, WIndsor, 838-8802.
Affronti, $19:Tucked off the plaza, this cozy little wine bar is going all out with a three course menu with creative dishes including steamed clams and chorizo; heirloom squash soup; polpettone (kind of like meatloaf) sliders; three cheese lasagna; saffron panna cotta or a sundae with cabernet chocolate sauce. 235 Healdsburg Ave., Suite 105, Healdsburg, 431-1113.
Kenwood Restaurant & Bar, $29: French onion soup; duck spring rolls; cranberry glazed pork tenderloin; beef bourguigon with mashed potatoes; flourless Swiss chocolate cake with raspberry coulis. 9900 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, 833-6326.
Village Inn & Restaurant, $19: Tasty choices for a great price include roasted sweet potato bisque; garlic tiger prawns on polenta cake; pinot noir braised beef short ribs. 20822 River Rd, Monte Rio, 865-2304.
And a Few Just Plain Mouthwatering Menus: John Ash & Co, $39: Roasted heirloom beets, fried tuna sashimi, zinfandel braised short ribs with mac and cheese gratin, pan seared black cod, dark chocolate cake with salted caramel buttercream.
Rendez Vous Bistro, $29: Balsamic braised pork belly with seared foie gras, red pepper bisque with Dungeness crabmeat, pan seared escolar, beef Bearnaise, homemade artichoke ravioli, chocolate pot de creme, petit crepe Suzette.
Chinois, $29: Panko prawns with wasabi honey mayo, pork shu mai, lemongrass prawns, five spice short ribs, coconut mango panna cotta.
Bistro 29, $29: Local oyster on the half shell, tart Flamiche with leeks, lobster bisque, beef daube with marble potatoes, local snapper with artichokes, creme caramel with strawberry compote.
+++++
All Restaurants Participating in Restaurant Week, February 21-28, 2011
Bodega Bay
Bay View Restaurant & Lounge, $29
The Duck Club, $39
Geyserville
Rustic Francis’s Fravorites, $39
Center Stage Bar & Grill at River Rock, $19, $29, $39
Catellis Restaurant, $19, $29
Glen Ellen
fig cafe and winebar, $29
Glen Ellen Inn, $19, $29
Guerneville
Applewood Inn, $39
Healdsburg Bear Republic Brewpub, $19
Barndiva, $39
Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, $29
Bistro Ralph, $39
Zin, $29
A Divine Affair, $29
SpoonBar, $29
Affronti Wine Bar & Restaurant, $19
Dry Creek Kitchen, $39
Kenwood
Cafe Citti, $19
Kenwood Restaurant and Bar, $29
Monte Rio
Village Inn & Restaurant, $19
Occidental
Bistro Des Copains, $29
Petaluma
Graffiti, $39
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Le Bistro, $29
Tres Hombres, $19
Tolay at Sheraton Hotel, $39
Cattlemens, $29
Pazzo, $29
Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery, $19
Rohnert Park
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Hana Japanese, $29
Bacchus Restaurant & Wine Bar, $29
Santa Rosa
Fresh By LIsa Hemenway, $19, $29
Union Hotel, $19
El Coqui Puerto Rican, $19
La Vera Pizza, $19
Cafe Europe, $19
Cafe Portofino, $29
Bruno’s on Fourth, $29
Jackson’s Bar & Oven, $29
Sea Thai Bistro, $29
Sam’s for Play, $19
Santi, $29
Blue Label at the Belvedere, $29
Legends at the Bennett Valley Golfcourse, $19
Equus, $29
Viola Pastry Boutique and Cafe, $19
Brasserie Restaurant & Lounge, $29
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Nonni’s Ristorante Italiano, $29
Monti’s Rotisserie and Bar, $29
La Gare, $29
Jack and Tony’s Restaurant & Whisky Bar, $29
Checkers Bistro & Wine Bar, $29
Ca Bianca, $29
Cattlemens, $29
Rendez Vous Bistro, $29
Johnny Garlic’s, $29
The Villa, $19
Bistro 29, $29
Nectar Restaurant, $29
John Ash & Co, $39
Zazu Restaurant & Farm, $39
Stark’s Steakhouse, $39
Syrah Bistro, $39
SIzzling Tandoor, $19
Riviera, $29
Sebastopol
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Hopmonk Tavern, $29
Henweigh Cafe, $19
Starlight Wine Bar & Restaurant, $29
Peter Lowell’s, $19
GTO Seafood, $29
French Garden, $39
Pizzavino 707, $19
Sonoma
Della Santina Trattoria, $29
Hopmonk Tavern, $29
Saddles Steakhouse, $19
Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante, $29
LoKal, $39
Epicurean Connection, $19
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Big Three, $119
Sante at the Fairmont, $39
Meritage Martini and Oyster Bar & Grille, $29
Harvest Moon Cafe, $29
Cafe La Haye, $29
Estate, $29
Carneros Bistro and Wine Bar, $39
Girl and the Fig, $29
Valley Ford
Rocker Oysterfeller’s, $29
Windsor
Bistro M, $29
Chinois Asian Bistro, $29
Ume Japanese Bistro, $29
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Charlie’s at Windsor Golf Course, $29
Johnny Garlic’s, $29
Marcus Haizlip, general manager at the new Five Guys Burger and Fries in Santa Rosa takes the order of Alissa De La Riva, Feb. 15, 2011 | Crista Jeremiason, PD
BiteClub winners chow at Five Guys | Crista Jeremiason, PD
Though the night was rainy and cold, five BiteClubbers braved the elements, the hoards and threats of impending indigestion to get the skinny on Five Guys Burgers and Fries, Santa Rosa’s first outpost of this east coast, Obama-favorite.
What we do, we do for you.
At the Five Guys table, a very pregnant Jennifer (to gauge the restaurant’s crave-worthiness); Chef Evan for the culinary worthiness; burger aficionado (and former Fair Food Scrambler) Jason; and Alissa, a woman who once ate burgers for 16 days in a row. Plus BiteClub and BiteClub Jr.
It takes a village to judge a burger, so we put our heads together to come up with a handy guide for all you Five Guys newbies (and oldies)…
What’s the Deal with this Place?
The first of a possible five new Five Guys restaurants in Sonoma County, the chain is spreading like wildfire across the nation (200 are slated to open in 2011). Local owner and Ohio native Craig Gallagher and four other investors leapt at the chance to snap up Sonoma County, one of the last counties in America to have franchises available. Petaluma may have the next opening, along with plans for at least one other Santa Rosa location.
Making your burger | Crista Jeremiason, PD
What To Order
The DC-based company prides itself on its fresh-baked buns, single-sourced fries (you can see the farm they came from on the board) made fresh and personalized burgers, offering up 15 different toppings ranging from mayo and lettuce to jalapenos and grilled mushrooms. Burgers aren’t started until you order, and wait time is typically about 7-8 minutes — hence the peanuts to tide you over. Burgers run a$4.99 for a double and $3.69 for a single. Unlike In N Out, Five Guys offers up split, griddle cooked hot dogs starting at $3.59. Fries are thickly cut and generously served, skin-on ($2.59 small, $4.69 large). Cajun-spiced fries are a best bet and pickles absolutely make the burger.
So, are the burgers as great as fans claim them to be?
Big, messy and squishy describe these burgers. The homemade buns are Wonder bread soft but are prone to disintegration. Things get pretty messy the more toppings you add. Go “All the Way” (an order for all the toppings) and you’ll end up with most of it on your lap, napkins and the foil paper wrapper — though you can sop it up with the fries, like we did. Said Jason, “This is definitely a multiple napkin experience!” Overall, the group was thumbs up on the whole Five Guys vibe, loved the ability to personalize the burgers and proclaimed the fries much better than In-N-Out.
Which speaks to the inevitable comparisons to our favorite Left Coast burger chain.
The Inevitable Comparison
1. No, there’s no secret menu or special sauce
2. Yes, the fries are way better
3. Yes, they have free peanuts and you can throw the shells on the ground
4. Nope, they don’t have milkshakes
5. Yes, their hot dogs totally rock
6. Yes, prices are a bit higher than In N Out. You’ll spend about $10 for a meal here.
7. No, there’s no drive through.
8. Yes, the staff is just as clean-cut and friendly.
The Feast!
BiteClubbers Final Say Jennifer: “The smell really drew me in.” Her plusses: The grilled, split hot dog with cheese. The minus: “The sauce at In & Out is better.” Crave worthiness: Moderate. Would she come back? “Yes.”
Evan: “The fries have sort of a cottage fry quality. They’re definitely bigger and better than In N Out’s soggy shoestrings.” The group unanimously decided, however, to order the fries extra crispy next time. The plusses: The range of condiments is great and I like the ballpark style hot dogs. Culinary worthiness: “I like it, but I’m a soggy burger kind of guy.” Come back? Yes.
Jason: “The buns are just great.” The plusses: Love the fresh jalapenos and pickles. The minus: I like my onions sliced. Burger Brilliance: “The patties don’t have much seasoning. They’re really fresh, but just not seasoned enough.” Come back? Yes.
Alissa: “I would definitely come back for the dog,” which she ordered with cheese, ketchup, mustard, hot sauce and pickles. Return? Yes. Sixteen times? Possible.
Heather: I loved the “All the Way” cheeseburger with crisp bacon and lettuce, grilled onions, mushrooms and chilled mayo and pickles. The burger itself was, frankly, unremarkable, but the soft bun and top-notch toppers (especially the pickle!) made for a memorable eating experience. Minus: I hate well-done burgers, and all their burgers are cooked well-done. Return: BiteClub Jr. insists.
Five Guys Burgers and Fries: 2280 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, Open daily at 11am.
Thanks to all my BiteClub eaters, everyone who entered, PD Photog Crista Jeremiason for the amazing pictures (though I will note that the cool fish eye lens seems to have added a hump back to me…haha) and Five Guys Burgers and Fries!
Frank and Ernie’s is the restaurant that no one and everyone is talking about.
Situated just outside the carefully manicured bubble of Healdsburg’s downtown tourist zone, there’s no glitzy advertising or chef-driven menus to ponder in the window here. There is no website to consult for mission statements, produce pedigrees or artful photography. In fact, there’s no website at all. As night falls, the restaurant’s bare windows magnify the vehicular paparazzi of car headlights in the parking lot. Inside, harried bussers fold napkins in the entry while confused diners look around in vain for a hostess.
Heresy just blocks away, at Frank & Ernie’s there’s an unmistakable feeling that no one here is trying to impress you. And maybe that’s why locals weary of the nearby gastro-circus seem to love it.
Opened in late 2010, Frank and Ernie’s is, at face value, an old school steakhouse owned by a local guy, Ron Palmieri. Named for his father and uncle, the seemingly unremarkable restaurant has risen from the ashes of the old Western Boot. In the kitchen, Chef A. J. Lockwood (formerly of Safari West) turns out slabs of char-broiled sirloin, hangar, New York strip, rib eye, filet mignon, prime rib (Friday through Sunday) along with a couple of silly chest-beaters that top out at 24 ounces. Without a hint of irony, each comes with a baked potato, pilaf or fries; bbq beans and horseradish cream.
The rest of the menu is presented with an equally straight-face: Shrimp Scampi, Pan-Seared Halibut, Caeasar Salad, Onion Rings, Cheeseburgers, French Dip and Mud Pie. The word “classic” is used a lot. Regulars are honest about managing your expectations. “It’s just a locals place,” they say.
Shrimp Scampi at Frank & Ernie's
But here’s where unremarkable becomes something very remarkable. Without pretention or pomp, Frank & Ernie’s effortlessly gets right what so many other restaurants work hard to get completely wrong.
Why? First off, service is well-timed and efficient, even when the servers are up to their elbows in customers and balancing five plates on their arms. “I’ll be right with you,” is a mantra they live up to. The food isn’t life-changing, but without exception satisfying. Okay, the onion straws may be a little life-changing. The prices are exactly in line with the quality of the food: Appetizers running between $5 and $8, entrees around $18 and steaks between $16 and $30. The convivial atmosphere of winemakers, townies, shopkeepers makes for plenty of neighborliness and families are welcome. The wine list is local and refreshingly uninflated.
The result: People just seem to like it here. Says a Yelper, “Just what the doctor ordered – a locals joint. Frank and Ernie’s is exactly what Healdsburg needs.” Bottles of coveted wine sit on tables with nachos and ravioli. The ambient noise is from the bustling kitchen rather than a state of the art sound system. The bar is a promising alternative to the historically divey B&B Saloon, which too many Wine Country bachelorette parties seem to have found lately. Off-duty chefs drop by for Hawaiian short ribs and mercifully few picky tourists seem to find their way here.
Mud Pie at Frank & Ernie's
Exactly what Healdsburg needs. So now that you know about it, do us all a favor and keep it under your hat. Because Frank & Ernie’s is the kind of place insiders already know about. And outsiders don’t need to.
Frank & Ernie’s, 9 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg, 433-2147. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesday.
As a rule, I wince when I hear the words artisanal and Pinot Noir in the same sentence, conjuring as they do the pretension of restaurants that proclaim “house-made” and people who’ve watched the movie Sideways more than once. But exceptions prove rules, and every so often I’m lucky enough to be reminded of the origins of the term, the idea that wine-making is as much craft as science, and that small lots, made by hand, with obsessive attention to detail, can transcend the hegemony of critics and their point ratings.
Surely, there’s a lesson there, something about the incessant marketing of “artisanal” products in the late 20th century occurring in parallel with the near extinction of “artisan” as a career… but I digress. This is artisanal wine-making, RoadHouse-style: To produce their first vintage, the winery staff – all 3 of them – shared a little studio above the production facility, so they could take turns running downstairs to do manual punch-downs, continuously, every 4 hours. Or this: I found out about these guys because my wife has a childrens’ dance studio, Wine Country Dance Space, down the street from their original tasting room, and it was hard not to notice a tasting room that allocates floor space to a pool table in lieu of tables of cheesy merchandise (you can get a cool T-shirt, although unfortunately not a rack of 8-ball, at their new facility by the Healdsburg Plaza).
Most of their first vintage – 2008 – has been sold out for a while now (they still have a little of their ’08 Russian River Pinot Noir and Dry Creek Zinfandel), but that’s OK, because the Erics are already pouring their exceptional 2009s, and will release them on April 1st. I tasted three ’09 bottlings, each sourced from a prime, but distinct, micro-climate within the Russian River AVA, and each of which offered a wonderfully unique expression of the region.
If juicy, forward bright red fruits are your thing, check out the Purple, although my personal favorite, hands-down, was the Black Label, a rich slice of black forest cake in a glass, thick with black cherries, vanilla, and a darker, brooding side that I can’t quite put my finger on, but which reminds me just a little of a fine northern Burgundy, the slightest hint of the sauvage…
