“Asian Sandwich” doesn’t quite do justice to the $3 masterpiece before you. This meaty torpedo, filled with warm slices of barbecued pork, crunchy carrots, pickled daikon, mayonnaise, pate, cilantro and a sneaky slice of jalapeno was made by a true sandwich artist.
Nestled into a grilled Costeaux Bakery baguette, you will brave Santa Rosa’s afternoon traffic jams, give up your primo parking spot and maybe even drive across town for one of these tasty banh mi. It is that good.
The home of this little whopper is the unassuming Noodle Bowl (821 Russel Ave, Santa Rosa, 843-5256). Open just three weeks, owner Kong Eav is an eager Empire College tourism & hospitality grad who clearly did his homework when it comes to tasty pan-Asian eats.
Though the restaurant bills itself as Cambodian, the menu ranges from Vietnamese pho, banh mi and rice plates to Chinese chow fun, curry, steamed buns and egg rolls, Japanese family-style shabu shabu (meat and vegetables cooked at the table in a flavored broth) and Cambodian pan-fried crepes called banchev.
Nothing on the menu (aside from the family-sized shabu shabu) is over $10 and many dishes are under $5. The prices, however, aren’t reflected in nicely-appointed interior and friendly service. A delicious deal.
Noodle Bowl, 821 Russel Ave., Santa Rosa, 843-5256. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Limited delivery, as well as catering and party trays available.
Being a football fan is rough work, what with all that yelling and screaming at the television. It works up a powerful appetite. One that’s far bigger than mere clam dip and Ruffles.
So, forgo the easy chair and Fritos this weekend. We’ve got the region’s best spots to hang out this Superbowl Sunday — places where you can quell your raging hunger, drink a beer and watch televisions larger than your refrigerator. Places with nice, fat hamburgers, piles of fries and, did we mention, beer? Lots of beer. How could you go wrong?
Wings of Love: There’s no doubt that buffalo wings are a sort of religion when it comes to game day grub.
Wing Stop:A newcomer to Santa Rosa, this national chain offers buffalo wings in every hue and flavor of the rainbow. This 475-restaurant chain is expected to sell nearly 5 million wings on game day, with some restaurants opening early for pickups. Top picks: Original hot, lemon pepper and hickory smoked BBQ. 760 Stony Point Rd., 120C, Santa Rosa, 544-9464.
Jackson’s Bar and Oven: NeoClassical Buffalo Wings with Point Reyes Blue Cheese Dip, 135 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa, 707-545-6900.
What are the Top 10 Superbowl eats? They aren’t what you might think. Click here.
Russian River Pub’s Famous Chicken Wings: Super Bucket $28.95, 11829 River Road, Forestville (707) 887-7932.
Original Buffalo Wings; 219 Lakeville Street, Petaluma. Delivery and open throughout the day Sunday.
Super Spreads McNear’s Restaurant: Budweiser specials, $9 pitchers, $3 draft, $2 PBR. Raffles each quarter for t-shirt and bar prizes; Bloody Mary Bar and 27 HD flat screen tvs. .50 chicken wings, $15 platters of sliders and Danger Dogs (bacon-wrapped weenies) and DIY nachos. Noon to 9pm. 23 Petaluma Blvd North, Petaluma.
Ausiello’s 5th St. Grill: Free appetizer spread and half-time lasagna dinner. With 17 televisions and a full bar, this is every fan’s dream spot. Stretch your legs at the outside patio, where you can eat, drink and let your pasty face get a few rays. Throughout the day, the grill will be fired up, serving the restaurant’s regular menu. Don’t miss the Lava Love burger, a big beefy hamburger with bacon, Swiss cheese and sweet-spicy BBQ sauce. 609 5th St, Santa Rosa, 579.9408.
All about the Beer: Spots where beer takes center stage. Barley and Hops: Though the television over the bar isn’t huge, the beer list is. And that’s all that really matters, right? Did we mention that the food is pretty awesome, too? Great Bavarian-inspired tummy-fillers. 3688 Bohemian Hwy, Occidental, 707.874.9037
Bear Republic Brewery: $5 apps include pigs in a blanket, guacamole and chips, chili cheese nachos, baby back ribs, and bacon-wrapped cream-cheese stuffed jalapenos. 3-7pm. 345 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 433.BEER.
Toad in the Hole: Enjoy the traditional English Sunday Roast lunch with meat and two vegetables from 12:30 to 7pm. 116 5th Street, Santa Rosa, 544-8623.
Third Street Ale Works: Regular menu and Sunday sliders. Daily specials. 610 3rd St., Santa Rosa 707-523-3060.
Russian River Brewing Co.: It’s no surprise that some of the best beer in Wine Country flows from the taps of SR’s own RRBC — downtown’s favorite rumpus room. Pizza and regular menu items. 725 4th St., Santa Rosa, 707.545.2337
Burger Spots Beyond the Glory: Although the staff couldn’t go into much more details than “super awesome” when we called, apparently this Petaluma sports bar is a hot commodity for Feb. 6. The front of the bar is reserved for invite-only guests, but the back room is first-come first-serve for the 42-inch plasma screen tvs. 1371 N McDowell Boulevard, Suite 130, Petaluma, 866.377.7389.
West Side Grill: Solid burgers, a large bar and pool tables make this a decent bet for game day. 3082 Marlow Rd., Santa Rosa, 573-9453.
According to a recent survey, the top 10 Super Bowl Sunday foods aren’t beer, beer, and nachos. You might be surprised to find out that vegetables top the list and salads, milk and tea make the top ten. Really?
Unless “vegetables” means spinach dip, bean dip and salsa, call me very skeptical.
Road Trip: Sunday night red-eye from SFO to JFK; mythical quantities of food and booze; a cumulative loss of sleep bordering on some chapter inFM 34-52, the field manual of interrogation techniques. Many of my best and oldest friends and much personal history remain rooted in the concrete canyons of Manhattan, so normally I’d say I get to go to NYC this week, but instead I’ll limp into this post with I have to be there, because – as I kvetched in last week’s post – I really do need to extricate myself from the ranks of the marginally attached worker; and, while I may live here in the 707 area code, Gotham City remains the undisputed mecca for my line of work, or at least for the line of work for which I may conceivably be paid.
By definition, I won’t be in my kitchen, but what are mere time and space to the dorky home cook? No, I’ll be cooking in absentia, using my downtime from the cooktop to preserve a big-ass batch of Meyer lemon confit, the acid, sugar and salt gently breaking down the fruit of its own accord, all while I suffer the indignity of 6+ hours in a middle seat. At least I’ll have something to come home to.
But the main reason to make this stuff is that it requires almost no effort, lasts for weeks, and tastes really good: I’ve served it as a garnish to Red Lentil Soup, chopped it into a Mediterranean Tuna Salad, layered it under Grilled Chicken w/ Lemons & Rosemary from My Garden, and I can’t wait to try this lemony-garlicky concoction with roasted fish, probably something baked whole in a salt crust; it’s also nice that the Meyers are in season right now, because my garden has far too many ever to eat, I know I’ll be missing them like a child gone to college once they’ve dropped to the ground.
Meyer Lemon Confit
There are endless variations on confit, but I love the simplicity of this version from Tom Colicchio’s Think Like a Chef (reprinted here in the Denver Post and below, with my notes), which gets extra kick from garlic and shallots, requires no cooking, and lets the fruit shine through. The original recipe uses standard lemons, but I especially like the Meyers because I find their thinner skins and less aggressive flavor so much more pleasant to eat; and, of course, Meyers are in season right now, while their local Eureka cousins won’t be around for another couple of months.
Ingredients: 12 lemons (NOTE: Use Meyers, if possible); 5 shallots, peeled and minced; 6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced; 2/3 cup kosher salt; 1/3 cup sugar; Extra-virgin olive oil
Directions: Plunge the lemons into boiling water (this softens the outer layer of wax). Drain, rinse, then wipe the lemons clean. Dry the lemons, then slice them very thin. Discard the ends and remove and discard the seeds. (NOTE: If you’re using your own lemons or others fresh from a tree, you shouldn’t have to bother with the boiling and wiping.) Combine the shallots with the garlic. Mix the salt with the sugar. Arrange a layer of lemon slices in the bottom of a midsized container with a lid. Sprinkle the lemons first with a little of the shallot mixture, then with some of the salt mixture. Repeat, layering lemons and sprinkling them with the shallot and salt mixtures until the final lemon slices are topped with the last of the salt and shallot mixtures. Cover the container and refrigerate the confit for 3 days. The confit can be used immediately or covered with olive oil and stored in the refrigerator for about a month. (NOTE: My last batch has been in the fridge for weeks, and it just gets better and better – vastly so, after a week or two, in fact. I don’t know how long it will last, but I suspect well over a month.)
Jazz on the Menu
Help support the Healdsburg Jazz Festival with a delicious dining opportunity Thursday, February 3, 2011. Throughout the night, ten Healdsburg restaurants will donate 25% of their total proceeds to the Jazz Festival and it’s Music Education Programs. Participating restaurants will feature live jazz music during the evening, and reservations are strongly recommended. On the list: A Divine Affair, Bistro Ralph, Baci Cafe and Wine Bar, Catelli’s (Geyserville), Dry Creek Kitchen, El Farolito, Ravenous Cafe & Lounge, Restaurant Charcuterie, Rustic (Geyserville) and Spoonbar. More details at healdsburgjazzfestival.org.
Wine & Chocolate 2011
Get a head start on your buttering up your Valentine at the Rodney Strong Wine & Chocolate event on Saturday, February 5, 2011 from 1-5pm. The barrel room is transformed into a sea of pink with top-notch chocolatiers, music, wine and oh, did we mention chocolate? $50 per person. rodneystrong.com
State of Sonoma County Food
Sonoma County will host it’s first Healthy Food Forum on February 24. The all-day event brings together farmers, producers and consumers, along with a number of local politicians to discuss the future of the local food system. Among those slated to attend and speak: Paul Vossen, Richard Rominger, Efren Carrillo, Shirlee Zane, Joe Pozzi, Sheana Davis and many others. Registration is free. 8am to 4pm, Showcase Cafe at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, 1350 Bennett Valley Road. Register at cesonoma.ucdavis.edu or call 565-2621.
A burger for the pool?
Throughout 2011, Stony Point Grill (130 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 578-1953) will donate 10% of your dining purchase to the Santa Rosa Aquatics Trust to help support local swimming pools. Just write “Save Our Pools” on your receipt. Tasty and terrific!
Flaming Pu Pu Platter: The source of many a childhood jokes, the pu pu platter is a glee-inducing treat. Sure, it’s most fried bits of deliciousness that will have you on the treadmill and extra two hours this week, but that flickering blue flame and sizzling beef skewers are so worth it. Ting Hau, 717 4th Street, Santa Rosa, 545-5204.
Peking Duck: Served since imperial days, this Chinese delicacy of crispy duck skin and meat served with plum sauce is the country’s national dish. Unlike imposter dishes like General Tsao chicken (rarely found outside the US), restaurants take pride in getting this dish right. Upmarket spots like Gary Chu’s (611 5th Street
Santa Rosa, 526-5840) require 24 hours notice to make the dish, but you can get Peking duck with just a thirty minute wait at Hang Ah Dim Sum and a smaller plate of sliced duck a la cart. 2130 Armory Rd, Santa Rosa, (707) 576-7873.
Just the facts:
One of twelve animal signs of the Chinese Zodiac, of you were born in a rabbit year (2011, 1999, ’87, ’75, ’63, ’51, ’39), you’re keen, wise, non-confrontational, tranquil and considerate, but perhaps a bit fragile. Celebrity rabbits include Angelina Jolie, Drew Barrymore, Jane Seymore and Kate Winslet.
What do certain foods mean?
Whole Fish: Abundance
Dried Bean Curd: Wealth and Happiness
Egg Roll: Good Fortune
Citrus: Wealth and sweet abundance
Garlic Chives:
Coconut: Career Advancement
Duck: Fidelity
Bok Choy: Health
Number 8: Luck
Pork = Wealth
Red Envelope: Lucky Money
Eff: Fertility
Circle: Family gathering, health and good fortune
Noodles: Intentionally made to be extra long, they represent long life.
Dim Sum & Chicken Feet: Santa Rosa’s Hang Ah is also a top spot for dim sum — small plates of steamed buns, dumplings and bites of meat or tofu. It’s a dive into sometimes uncharted waters, where descriptions and pictures don’t always match up to expectations. Rice Noodle Roll with Flour Crispy is a sort of fried sweet dough wrapped in slippery noodles. Crispy Shrimp Ball: A shrimp meatball wrapped in a tangle of fried noodles. Plates fringe from a meager $2.50 to $4.50 each, so it’s worth taking a few chances — like chicken claws in black bean sauce — a fibrous yet gelatinous treat you’ll either love or have nightmares about for weeks. 2130 Armory Rd, Santa Rosa, (707) 576-7873.
Hot and Sour Soup: Everyone has a favorite neighborhood spot serving up this kitchen-sink brew of tart broth, mushrooms, tofu, bamboo shoots, chile paste and green onions. It’s a warming way to start the meal and frankly, a good gauge of the quality of the meal to come. Best bets: Kirin, 2700 Yulupa Avenue # 3, Santa Rosa, 525-1957 and China Star, 2101 W College Ave # A, Santa Rosa, 526-0888.
Chinese Buffets: I’m not a person who gets excited about facing down 100-plus items sitting in steam trays. But I can get behind the idea of feeding lots of people for a low, low price. So if you’re headed for the buffets, top marks go to Gourmet Garden Buffet, 100 S. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 778.3899; the always popular Fou Zhou II in downtown Santa Rosa with its dizzying 150 or so item spread and King Buffet, 595 Rohnert Park Expy W, Rohnert Park, 588-8383, where you can often find whole crab legs and other fresh seafood.
More Chinese Restaurants:
If there’s a go-to favorite Chinese restaurant in Santa Rosa, it’s China Room,500 Mission Blvd, Santa Rosa, 539-5570, Despite a ho-hum interior, the menu is extensive, with standard Chinese-American fare with Sweet & Sour everything, Moo shu, fried rice, walnut prawns,General Tso chicken, orange beef, hot pots as well as more intriguing daily specials featuring with seasonal veggies, curries and seafood.
In Petaluma, it’s Lilly Kai, where locals nibble on bbq spare ribs, homemade pot stickers and moo she and broccoli beef with relish. 3100 Lakeville Hwy, Petaluma, 782-1132.
Under the radar: Headed up by the former owner of China Room, Fresh China’s menu is heavy on organics, seasonal vegetables and advertises its use of local Rocky Range chicken.. 284 Coddingtown Mall, Santa Rosa, 707.527.6444.
According to Laure Tatman, market manager for the Rohnert Park Certified Farmers Market, vendors including La Texanita, Sift Cupcakes, Karma Mobile Indian, Chicago Style Hot Dogs, Dim Sum Charlie’s, Matchbox Diner and Fork Catering will roll into the Callinan Sports and Fitness Center parking lot (5404 Snyder Lane) from 10 am to 3pm each Tuesday. Tatman is also inviting local vendors from the Friday night farm market to be part of the lunchtime gathering.
UPDATE: P/30 owners plan to honor gift certificates if/when the restaurant is sold to new owners…
A NOTE ABOUT GIFT CERTIFICATES: We are deeply sorry if you recently purchased a gift certificate-it was never our intention for this to happen. We will do everything in our power to make sure that the certificates are honored by the next owners, it will be written into the contract. Thank you for your patience and understanding, and know that we would never, ever take advantage of you.
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With just a few day’s warning, West County comfort food eatery P/30 has shuttered. On Friday, owners Patrick and Christine Tafoya sent out upbeat notes to Facebook friends and fans offering dining discounts on food and wine with promises of a last group hurrah. But come Monday, the party would be over.
Oozing with charm, family-friendly, casual and mid-priced deals, everything seemed to point to P/30’s success early on. So what happened?
The couple say the decision to close the eighteen-month old restaurant was purely about family, or rather, the lack of it during their brief stint as first-time restaurant owners. Both were almost constant fixtures at the location, while juggling the demands of parenthood and Christine’s design business. Said Patrick on Sunday night from behind his computer: “I am closing the restaurant for the sake of my family.”
Reached on Monday morning, he said he’s feeling a mixed bag of emotions about the closure. “Some moments I feel nothing but relief and excitement about the future. Some moments I’m struck with sorrow and pain from what we’re walking away from,” the chef said. He plans to take some time off and most likely return to the restaurant scene. “It’s what I am and what I know how to do.”
But already a legacy is clear: Kudos for aggressive social networking (which I personally commend and which influenced me significantly), appealing to a diverse cross-section of diners (from young winetasters to families and older couples) and Patrick’s commitment walking the walk with small local producers and pushing the boundaries on creative comfort food. While not every dish always worked, there was clearly passion and love behind the cooking. And for that, P/30 will be remembered.
But the restaurant biz can be brutal, and despite the hard work and commitment of the Tafoyas, some mixed reviews about the menu, the location and the locals may have contributed to it’s ultimate demise…
The Location: Chef insiders had long shared concerns about the remote countryside location half-way between the town of Sebastopol and Bodega. Undoubtedly one of the most charming summer and fall getaways in Wine Country, pros know the road to the coast has less appeal during cold and rainy winter and spring months — especially for notoriously fickle Santa Rosans. The closure of numerous restaurants in the location — most recently Cafe Saint Rose — speaks to the challenge. Tafoya counters: “It’s full of potential. We were never to fully capitalize on that, but in no way is this a doomed location at all.” He plans to offer his services as chef consultant if he can find a buyer.
The Community: Though it’s often been a polarizing discussion, restaurateurs also know that West County success hinges on keeping Sebastapolians coming back on weeknights and through the slow season. Though P/30 seemed to have consistent support within the community, the ghosts of Restaurant Eloise and West County Grill serve as painful reminders to chefs who stumble in the eyes of locals — whether by price, service, attitude or consistency. “Look,” said Tafoya, “The locals have been nothing but kind and supportive. We’ve gotten to know a lot of people and we’ve had nothing but support.”
In the end, a restaurant with so much potential closing is a loss regardless of the reason. Many of us are still smarting over the departure of the Eloise crew and understand the almost insurmountable difficulty of owning a restaurant. So here’s to taking that chance, Patrick and Christine. And here’s to hoping we’ll see you again soon.
Marinated w/ rosemary and Meyer lemons from my garden, grilled, served over homemade lemon confit
The Costco Report: Episodic observations on where to port safely, and what to avoid like a pestilence, when navigating an ocean of consumer non-durables under a sheet metal sky… In today’s edition, a pretty good deal on organic chicken, and a nice way to use your seasonal garden while you cook it.
If you insist on eating strictly local products from small family businesses that hold themselves to the highest possible standards of ethics and quality, I certainly won’t be the one to talk you out of it, and this chicken will not be for you; instead, I’d refer you to the good folks at Gleason Ranch, and the related article by my friends over at BiteClub on the virtues of the $26 chicken (there are many). But if – like our family – you support local producers whenever and understand the imperative to feed your family consistently well without breaking the bank, then – also like our family – you supplement roadside farm stands and weekend markets with trips to big-box retailers. The trick, of course, is to tease out only the best of what the big-box stores have to offer from the underlying ocean of unadulterated crap. It’s with this in mind that I recently served my kids a nicely grilled Organic Boneless Chicken with Meyer Lemons, Rosemary, and Garlic, for which I paid less than $7/lb at Costco. Flavored with stuff I grew, cooked in one pan with virtually no prep, and a tasty, healthy meal, with the added bonus of economies-of-scale leftovers.
Look for the Organic Boneless, Skinless Thighs
The provenance of the bird itself is the Coleman Organics brand, specifically the boneless, skinless thighs (they also have breasts, if that’s your thing, but I’ve never really understood Americans’ predilection to pay more for something that tastes, well, less). Coleman claims that they farm sustainably, ethically, feed only vegetarian grain without the use of antibiotics, and are USDA-certified organic. I have no doubt that the USDA label covers a wide range of practices, some a lot less wholesome than I’d like, and – by virtue of their size alone – that Coleman is on the “industrial” end of the spectrum. And I’d be remiss if I didn’t at least mention the company’s role in a beef recall at Whole Foods, so I did some surfing this morning, tried to find out about Coleman’s other poultry brands, but unfortunately couldn’t find much, either pro- or con; if you know of any good animal welfare/food quality sites or research that talks about the Coleman brands, please post it in the comments. What I can tell you, at least, is that it tastes good.
Grilled Chicken with Garlic, Meyer Lemons, and Rosemary from My Garden
Season 1-1.5lb of chicken meat (I used a pack of the organic boneless, skinless thighs from Costco mentioned above, but you could use any cut, really) liberally with salt and pepper and place in a heavy duty Zip Loc bag, along with a few sprigs of rosemary, 2-3 crushed garlic cloves, and a couple of sliced Meyer lemons (don’t even bother seeding them).
Place the bag in a bowl (for sanitation, in case it leaks) and leave in the fridge for whatever time you have
Marinate in a bag for sanitation, quality, and convenience
(an hour, overnight, longer is better, but it will taste good regardless).
Heat a grill pan or skillet on medium heat and cook until nicely colored on both sides and the juices run clear (use a kitchen thermometer if you have any question about done-ness; chicken is unsafe when undercooked, and inedible when overcooked).
Serve on a bed of more sliced Meyers, or use more of that edible Meyer lemon confit I keep talking about, which adds a wonderful flavor when eaten with the chicken. (The chicken may want a bit more salt; I garnished mine with a little sprinkling of fleur de sel and some more freshly cracked pepper.)
Of the many things not to like about a crappy job market, working longer hours for less money has to be near the top of the list; worse still, however, are the all-too-inevitable hours spent working for nothing, the hours spent trying to secure employment instead of actually doing something productive, like riding your bike or cooking. I say this because neither cooks, writers, nor economists of merely mortal stature obtain any special immunity to recessions, which means I’ve spent more time at the margin fretting about paychecks than I have perusing roadside farm stands. It also means that I’ve had to do some thinking about faster, easier ways to serve good food to my family, and what’s faster and easier than the humble tuna sandwich?
Personally, I love the classic deli-style preparation, with properly-chunked tuna and lots of finely chopped celery suspended in a bed of real mayonnaise. But it can get a bit boring – even oppressive to the palate – eating mayo by the bucketful, especially to my eldest daughter, who still regards the invention of mayonnaise as a greasy, evil plot to force otherwise attractive proteins into masquerading as “salads”. My favorite alternative is to make tuna salad in what I think of as the “Mediterranean style”, using olive oil in place of mayo, adorned simply with roughly chopped olives, some of those gorgeous Meyer lemons, still bursting from their branches this time of year, and maybe a little minced red onion. The salty cure of the olives makes a good friend to the mildly bitter and orange-y Meyers, whose citrus-y tang balances out the tuna flavors nicely; add your favorite green for color and texture. And, while I hate to waste bread, I have to admit that I like the crusts cut off…
Mediterranean Style Tuna Salad with Olives & Lemons
Flake a 6oz can of tuna with a fork in a medium-sized mixing bowl (see the note on health & sustainability of canned tuna at bottom). If the tuna is water-packed, drain it well, and then add enough olive oil to make the texture coherent enough for a sandwich; if it’s packed in olive oil, just go with it, or adjust the amount of oil to taste.
Coarsely chop a small handful of Kalamata or oil-cured Provencal olives (regular or oil cured, pits removed) and several slices of Meyer lemon confit. (I realize that you probably don’t have Meyer lemon confit lying around, but that’s only because I haven’t convinced you to make it yet. With Meyers exploding off the trees, I made a huge batch, and I’ve been cooking the stuff into soups, chopping it into Nicoise-esque salads, and serving it with roasted fish and grilled chicken at every turn. It’s a great way to preserve a seasonal crop, and it makes a kick-ass condiment for all sorts of things. In any case, absent the confit, just squeeze some fresh lemon juice into the tuna.) If you like – I’ve done it both ways, it just depends on your predilection for raw onion – finely mince a tablespoon or two of red onion as well.
Mix all the ingredients together and serve on toasted whole wheat, preferably with a nice green, like wild arugula (very tasty and available right now, pre-washed, from Trader Joe’s). I’m quite sure the sandwich would be just as successful on your favorite sourdough bread, and/or with spinach. If you want to be cute, and why wouldn’t you, cut off the crusts before assembly, then spear both halves of the assembled sando with toothpicks, and slice it on the diagonal (see picture inset above).
Footnote: Issues w/ Canned Tuna
Mercury poisoning and sustainable fishing are critically important issues as they relate to tuna, but they’re also well beyond the scope of this post. For those that care, however, I can recommend the excellent website for sustainable seafood published by the Monterey Bay Aquarium, and the series of pieces by Consumer Reports discussing toxicity levels in tuna.
