Oh, the Places You Can Go!

A pair of Blue Waters Kayaking instructors launch their boats at the company’s Marshall location. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)

There aren’t many places in the world where winter road-trip options include snow, coast and a cosmopolitan city. But here we are, in the epicenter of optimal destinations, each one marked by equal parts physical beauty, smart sophistication and vibrant food scene. Take a break during Sonoma’s traditional quiet time and recharge in a new setting.

Marin Coast

Less than an hour’s drive from Santa Rosa, the coastline along Marin’s Point Reyes National Seashore is among the most beautiful in the world, dotted with beaches that are accessible, and some less so. The hillsides in wintertime are brilliantly verdant, and there are many warm, cozy corners in which to curl up against the storms. Dramatic trails and beaches are perfect places to feel nature’s moods.

The coastal region’s bounty of food and drink is as impressive as its beauty. The Point Reyes area sustains cows, sheep and goats for milk and cheese, grass-fed beef, fish and oysters, and several farmers markets’ worth of cool-climate produce. Coastal Marin is also viticulturally viable, with small plots of mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines. Point Reyes makes an ideal setting for a multiday or overnight stay organized around the one-road towns of Olema and Point Reyes Station, and the outcrops of Inverness and Marshall, set along Tomales Bay.

Where to Go:

A colorful kayak rests at the edge of Tomales Bay at Blue Waters Kayaking's Marshall location. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)
A colorful kayak rests at the edge of Tomales Bay at Blue Waters Kayaking’s Marshall location. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)

Blue Waters Kayaking
Tomales Bay is ideal for kayaking, offering several places to launch, including at Nick’s Cove (officially known as the Miller County Park Boat Launch). Fifteen miles long, the bay offers plenty of room to paddle without having to tackle rough, open ocean. Blue Waters rents kayaks and standup paddleboards, and leads morning, sunset and full-moon paddle tours launching from Marshall and Inverness. Rentals start at $50, tours at $65.
60 Fourth St., Suite C, Point Reyes Station, 415-669-2600, bwkayak.com

Osteria Stellina
Located on the main drag in Point Reyes Station, Osteria Stellina serves gourmet Italian dishes with a Marin twist; freshly harvested ingredients include Drake’s Bay oysters, Bellwether Farms ricotta, Marshall Farm honey and Stellina farm baby lettuce. The zuppa del giorno (soup of the day) is a wintertime staple; so are the grilled cheese sandwiches on sourdough. Mains in winter focus on comforting Niman Ranch osso buco, braised chicken and Rossotti Ranch braised goat. The wine list reflects the best of Italy and Northern California.
11285 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station, 415-663-9988, osteriastellina.com

Sea urchin, wild kelp pickles and first flush chanterelles dish at Sir and Star at The Olema in Olema, Calif. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)
Sea urchin, wild kelp pickles and first flush chanterelles dish at Sir and Star at The Olema in Olema, Calif. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)

Sir and Star at The Olema
Within The Olema Inn, this restaurant represents the rebirth of Margaret Grade and chef Daniel DeLong, who for many years were the force behind Manka’s restaurant in Inverness before it burned down. They continue to operate Manka’s as a lodge. Anyone who had the exquisite experience of dining at Manka’s will find renewed hope here, where the inspiration for farm-fresh and foraged food continues as brilliantly as ever. Dinner only, Wednesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., with Saturday nights focused on a leisurely meal of small courses. Reservations encouraged.
10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Olema, 415-663-1034, sirandstar.com

Manka’s Inverness Lodge
The lodge, which survived a 2006 fire that claimed Manka’s destination restaurant, remains among the most luxurious and quietly private places to stay. Breakfast is included, the well-appointed cabins have fireplaces and hot tubs, and the town of Inverness and the wild beaches of Point Reyes are nearby. Rates start at $215.
30 Callendar Way, Inverness, 415-669-1034, mankas.com

Hog Island Oyster Co.
The Boat, Hog Island’s on-site oyster bar, offers shucked oysters, raw and cooked, cheese, bread, beer and wine, with no reservations required. What will require a reservation is a picnic spot of one’s own for DIY shucking, complete with table, grill and tools. BYOB is fine, and there are plenty of beverages for sale at The Boat, including Marooned On Hog Island Oyster Stout. Oysters and shellfish are also sold to go.
20215 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-9218, hogislandoysters.com

Marin Sun Farms Butcher Shop and Restaurant
This sustainable meat purveyor, which sells at farmers’ markets throughout the Bay Area, is a great place to have a meal or purchase meat, eggs and charcuterie, and beef and chicken stocks. The menu is, of course, meat-obsessed, offering steaks, chops and burgers, including a goat burger with Laura Chenel Chèvre cheese. Open Thursday through Monday for lunch and sometimes dinner.
10905 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station, 415-663-1800, marinsunfarms.com

Cowgirl Creamery employee Erica Martinez helps a customer at Cowgirl Creamery at the Tomales Bay Foods in Point Reyes Station, Calif. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)
Cowgirl Creamery employee Erica Martinez helps a customer at Cowgirl Creamery at the Tomales Bay Foods in Point Reyes Station, Calif. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)

Cowgirl Creamery at Tomales Bay Foods
World-famous Cowgirl Creamery originally made all of its cheeses in this restored hay barn. Now it’s a shop for all things delicious, including, of course, the best selection of cheeses in town, from America and abroad. Local breads, sandwiches, salads and a rare collection of local wines complete the picture.
80 Fourth St., Point Reyes Station, 415-663-9335, cowgirlcreamery.com

Nick’s Cove
A waterside place to stay and eat, Nick’s is a series of cottages on stilts on Tomales Bay and below the road. There’s a cozy gourmet restaurant, oyster bar and watering hole within walking distance that’s reason alone to make the drive. With the same sustainable mentality that marks so much of Marin, Nick’s food is in keeping with the natural surroundings, the menu stocked with crab mac and cheese, crab cakes, crab Louis, crab risotto, clam chowder and plenty of oysters. Lodging rates start at just above $200 and are a better deal in winter, especially midweek.
23240 Highway 1, Marshall, 415-663-1033, nickscove.com

San Francisco

To be so close to such an urbane, food-oriented city is a blessing in Sonoma, and San Francisco can feel more like a part of our extended backyard than a separate place of its own. There is a defined thoroughfare between the two in terms of ingredients and frame of mind. Chefs, bartenders and wine buyers love having the connection to Sonoma, and Sonoma to them.

Whether it’s cozying up to a romantic Manhattan in a dark, timeless bar, hanging onto an F-line streetcar in the dark of a winter’s evening, or foraying into the shops and eateries that contribute to the national conversation on what constitutes inventive, a trip to the city is sure to open all the senses and remind that what is grown and harvested in Sonoma adds substantially to the fabric of a world-class, much-loved city.

Where to Go:

Dandelion Chocolate
Dandelion is San Francisco’s newest artisan chocolate maker, continuing a lineage that runs through Ghirardelli, Guittard and Recchiuti. From its hipster-detailed Mission District outpost, it makes the bars in full view of visitors, from melting to wrapping, with plenty of the finished product for sale, plus roasted cocoa beans and decadent baked goods.
740 Valencia St., San Francisco, 415-349-0942, dandelionchocolate.com

Bi-Rite Market and Bi-Rite Creamery & Bakeshop
One of the early pioneers of artisan food supplies, Bi-Rite in the Mission District is a cool place to browse and find picnic items and other goods to take home. It’s so devoted to new discoveries that the store also organizes farm tours (it operates its own organic farms in Sonoma, Placerville and San Francisco), classes and tastings. Committed to creating community as much as nourishing through food, Bi-Rite maintains a second San Francisco store (550 Divisadero, 415-551-7900) and two Creamery & Bakeshops, near both of its markets.
3639 18th St., San Francisco, 415-241-9760, biritemarket.com; 3692 18th St., San Francisco, 415-626-5600, biritecreamery.com

The Ferry building looking west (photo by Chris Hardy)
The Ferry building looking west (photo by Chris Hardy)

Ferry Building Marketplace
This Embarcadero emporium offers all one could possibly want to eat, with outposts such as Hog Island Oyster Co., Cowgirl Creamery, McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil and Gott’s Roadside. It’s also a place to discover new wines at the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, where food can be brought in to enjoy alongside a rotating selection of wines by the glass or bottle; vintner nights are frequent.
One Ferry Building, San Francisco, 415-983-8030, ferrybuildingmarketplace.com

Mandarin Oriental Hotel
Offering modern elegance in the heart of the Financial District, an easy walk to Chinatown, North Beach and the Embarcadero, the Mandarin Oriental boasts luxurious rooms with views of the bay or bridges. It’s also a must-stop for gin lovers; the gin and tonic-obsessed Bar at Brasserie S & P is a slice of heaven for the cocktail-erati. Rates start at $395.
222 Sansome St., San Francisco, 415-276-9888, mandarinoriental.com/sanfrancisco

SPQR
The second restaurant of the team that launched A16, SPQR in the Fillmore is sure to steal your heart if it hasn’t already; the Italian-inspired food is rendered in poetically perfect ways. Chef Matthew Accarrino deserves every accolade bestowed and many more. Do everything possible to order the smoked fettuccine with sea urchin, smoked bacon and soft quail egg, paired with something adventurous from owner Shelley Lindgren’s Italian wine list.
1911 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415-771-7779, spqrsf.com

Tartine Bakery & Café
Another stalwart of the city’s rigorous attention to artisan detail, Tartine crafts outstanding bread and baked goods. Co-owner and baker Chad Robertson is a hero to many. Fresh-baked bread is available daily after 4:30 p.m., in time for dinner or overnight wrapping for the next day’s best-ever toast. The on-site café serves pastries, hot-pressed sandwiches and quiche, along with Four Barrel coffee and Niman Ranch meats. Lines out the door are routine.
600 Guerrero St., San Francisco, 415-487-2600, tartinebakery.com

Ti Punch, made from rhum agricole, a species of rum made from fresh-pressed sugarcane instead of molasses, meant to capture the sugarcane's terroir, at Bar Agricole. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Ti Punch, made from rhum agricole, a species of rum made from fresh-pressed sugarcane instead of molasses, meant to capture the sugarcane’s terroir, at Bar Agricole. (photo by
Chris Hardy)

Bar Agricole
South of Market, near the Slim’s nightclub owned by musician and Napa Valley vintner Boz Scaggs, Bar Agricole does food and booze equally well, with an emphasis on classic cocktails with an artisan twist. This means a drink like Ti Punch is made from rhum agricole, a species of rum made from fresh-pressed sugarcane instead of molasses, and meant to reflect the sugarcane’s terroir, much as wine shows its provenance.
355 11th St., San Francisco, 415-355-9400, baragricole.com

House of Air
Indulge your inner aerialist at this giant warehouse at the Presidio’s Chrissy Field, devoted to getting airborne via trampoline. Come just to bounce, or for workout classes, coaching sessions on how to master Olympic-level tuck jumps and pikes, better maneuver on skis and snowboards, or simply to release workweek tension through a game of trampoline dodgeball. Sessions start at $13.
926 Mason St., San Francisco, 415-345-9675, houseofair.com

Lake Tahoe

The ski slopes around Lake Tahoe are such an irresistible draw for Bay Area residents that they’ll happily sit in traffic for hours, slog on chains and tempt the fates of road closures, just to get in a day or two of snowboarding or skiing. But that’s not the only reason so many love Tahoe. It’s also because the year-round resort knows a thing or two about living the good life, offering adrenaline junkies a chance to slow down and refuel around a meal.

Where to Go:

The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe
Yes, it’s fancy and over-the-top luxurious, but the Ritz-Carlton in North Lake Tahoe also has as ace up its sleeve: Manzanita. The destination restaurant has a chef’s table for up to eight guests, who experience a “mountain-inspired California cuisine” tasting menu that’s crazy-good. In addition to a spa, hiking trails, fishing, children’s programs and championship golf, a new Backyard Bar & BBQ is being built. Rates start at $369.
13031 Ritz-Carlton Highlands Court, Truckee, 530-562-3000, ritzcarlton.com/en/properties/laketahoe

The Pour House
To stock up on fine wines, look no farther than this retail shop packed with bottles from the Old World and New, including Pinot Noirs from Saintsbury and Flowers, and selections from the nearby Sierra Foothills, such as the Donkey & Goat Five Thirteen Red Wine Blend from El Dorado. The store also carries collectibles it categorizes as “You Wish!” comprised of library wines such as the 1997 Opus One Cabernet blend. Best of all, the shop does daily tastings of two reds and two whites and will help with parties.
10075 Jibboom St., Truckee, 530-550-9664, thepourhousetruckee.com

Wilderness Adventures Dog Sled Tours
Admire the graceful choreography and poetic paw work of a team of eight to 12 huskies pulling a sled through the snowy mountains on this one-hour tour. Daily daytime and sunset tours are available, weather permitting, winter through spring, leaving from the Resort at Squaw Creek. Up to two adults and two children typically fit per sled. Rates start at $110 per person.
400 Squaw Creek Road, Olympic Valley, 530-550-8133, tahoedogsledtours.com

Petra
In the Village at Northstar, Petra is food, wine and people in equal proportions, featuring some 150 wine selections, winemaker dinners and happy hours daily from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. (two glasses of wine plus cheese for $20). The restaurant’s menu is organized around cheese, charcuterie and tapas.
3001 North Village Drive, Truckee, 530-562-0600, teloswine.com

Plumpjack Squaw Valley Inn
Plumpjack Squaw Valley Inn

PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn
The PlumpJack Café at Squaw Valley continues where the beloved San Francisco institution left off, creating sumptuous plates for lunch and dinner that are meant to be enjoyed with wine, which is sold at retail prices. It’s a fun place with seasonal wine dinners a prominent part of the mix. On weekends, stay for Sunday Bloody Sunday, when Bloody Marys (Asian- and Southern-inspired) take on new meaning from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Rates start at $255.
1920 Squaw Valley Road, Squaw Valley, 530-583-1578, plumpjacksquawvalleyinn.com

Moody’s Bistro, Bar & Beats
Within the Truckee Hotel, Moody’s is both inspired eatery and live music hangout, where a plate of truffled deviled eggs or housemade corndogs with Coca-Cola ketchup makes perfect sense while a blues band plays. Thin-crust pizza, burgers, sandwiches and house-made pastas round out the standard offerings, while bison short ribs and Durham Ranch elk burger stand out as the not-in-Kansas-anymore choices. Wines on tap include J Pinot Gris and Qupé Syrah, and you can pillage Moody’s Cellar for a bottle of something rare. And be on the lookout: Paul McCartney has been known to show up unannounced and sing a few tunes.
10007 Bridge St., Truckee, 530-587-8688, moodysbistro.com

Lights! No More Camera! Action!

Spreckels Center for the Arts Managing Director, Gene Abravaya. (photo by John Burgess)

All Gene Abravaya has left from nearly 15 years working behind the cameras in national network television is a grainy videotape.

The video shows him rehearsing a scene with actor Scott Baio for the sitcom called “Charles in Charge.” Co-star Willie Aames was out that one day, so as the show’s stage manager, Abravaya stepped in to help Baio run through his lines.

“Scott and I were wearing sweaters that looked exactly alike, and we had the same coloring, so the camera operators didn’t know who was who,” Abravaya said.

The tape caught Baio’s inadvertent double-take when he was confronted by what looked like his double.

“It was my one and only time in front of the camera,” Abravaya said.

In the North Bay, Abravaya, 62, has been a presence on the local live theater scene for the past quarter-century as an actor, director and playwright.

After working on soap operas in New York and sitcoms in Los Angeles from the mid-1970s to the late 1980s, Abravaya moved to Sonoma County in 1990 with his wife, Teri, and their two children. He became the publicist for Rohnert Park’s Spreckels Center for the Performing Arts in 2000, and its manager in 2011.

Born in New York City in 1951, Abravaya grew up in Queens and graduated from Adelphi University on Long Island in 1973 with a bachelor’s degree in speech.

After a summer stock theater tour in Ohio, including productions with comic impressionist Rich Little and TV actor David Doyle (Bosley on “Charlie’s Angels”), Abravaya went looking for work in New York.

“I was auditioning for acting jobs when my money ran out,” Abravaya recalled. “Then I saw a want ad in The New York Times that said, ‘script typist needed.’ It turned out to be the teleprompter service for all of the Procter & Gamble soap opera series that were taping in New York at that time.”

Spreckels Center for the Arts Managing Director, Gene Abravaya directs actors in their production of "Scrooge," a musical based on "A Christmas Carol." (photo by John Burgess)
Spreckels Center for the Arts Managing Director, Gene Abravaya directs actors in their production of “Scrooge,” a musical based on “A Christmas Carol.” (photo by John Burgess)

Soon he was the studio teleprompter operator for “As the World Turns,” and during the next five years, worked his way up to assistant to the producer. He worked with series co-stars Eileen Fulton and Don Hastings, and former child actor Freddie Bartholomew, who joined the show as an executive producer.

At the series’ occasional on-location shoots, Abravaya met with a blizzard in upstate New York and a traffic jam on the 59th Street Bridge in New York City, and he began to look west.

After sending out 300 resumes and getting three replies, Abravaya went to Los Angeles for an interview at Universal Television, NBC’s production arm.

“The elevator doors opened, and a big guy in a gorilla suit waved to me and walked on by,” Abravaya remembered. “From that moment on, I knew I had left reality.”

In the 1980s, Abravaya worked as stage manager and eventually line producer on prime-time TV series in LA. He spent almost five years at Embassy TV, working on comedy series including “Facts of Life,” “The Jeffersons,” “One Day at a Time” and “Diff’rent Strokes.”

Ultimately, Abravaya tired of long, hectic work weeks alternating with idle time between seasons, and decided he’d gone as far in TV as he could. In 1988, the television industry in Los Angeles was crippled when writers, directors and actors went out on strike, and Abravaya began to look north.

“I had done really well, but decided I’d had my fill. I’d been working 50 to 60 hours a week, but I had work 30 weeks a year and then the industry would go on hiatus between seasons,” he said of the tumultuous work rhythm. “And by then, we had two children.”

The Abravayas moved to Rohnert Park, where Teri’s sister lived, and settled down to raise their family.

“When I think back on my career, I’ve always been lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time,” he said.

Shopping: Fun in the snow

Products for Sonoma MagazineSmith I/O Recon Snow Goggles
These goggles not only keep your eyes protected, they also have the ability to show you where you are in the world, the speed you’re traveling, temperature, altitude and many more navigation stats. The technology also gives you the ability to text, check caller ID and control your music playlist. You might not ever want to leave the slopes.
$650, Santa Rosa Ski & Sports, 1125 W. Steele Lane, Santa Rosa, 707-578-4754, santarosaskiandsports.com

 

Grabber Mega Warmer
If you’re heading out into the cold, this is one hand warmer you won’t want to be without. Slip the packet out of the wrapper and the air contact activates the heat within minutes. You’ll feel toasty-warm for 12-plus hours, ensuring plenty of time on the frosty slopes.
$1.99 each, Big 5 Sporting Goods, locations in Napa, Petaluma, Rohnert Park and Santa Rosa, big5sportinggoods.com

 

 

CamelBak Blowfish
You never know what you might need on top of the mountain, but one thing’s for sure: Water is essential. Pack up right with the CamelBak Blowfish, a multi-use daypack that goes from small to big with a slip of the zipper. The 70-ounce reservoir holds plenty of H2O so you won’t get parched when navigating the moguls. The color choices are black and red.
$87.95, Sonoma Outfitters, 145 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-1920, sonomaoutfitters.com

 

 

giro-decade-snowsport-_opt

Giro Nine.10 Snow Helmet
Both comfortable and lightweight, this helmet protects your noggin without blocking vision or weighing you down. The 14 vents allow fresh air to move through while also radiating heat. A vent shield helps you take control of your comfort level. The helmet comes in white and titanium colors.
$59-$99, Big 5 Sporting Goods, locations in Napa, Petaluma, Rohnert Park and Santa Rosa, big5sportinggoods.com

 

 

The Vine Life

The guest cottage at Landmark Vineyard in the Sonoma Valley. (photo by John Burgess)

Spending the night in the middle of a vineyard is a magical experience at any time, but in the dormant winter months, there’s a feeling of bedding down while the land is lying low.

Imagine waking up, lifting your head from the pillow and looking through French doors opening only feet from a row of wet vines. At first light, heavy fog reveals only vine trunks and the jackrabbits that scurry between them. A hawk’s cry breaks the silence. As the fog recedes, it holds on with long fingers down each row before letting go.

It’s not the cheery bud break of spring with its electric-yellow mustard bloom. Or the bustle of busy summer tastings and the visitors’ parade. Or the urgency of harvest and its heavy machinery.

Winter is for catching your breath at the winery. For ducking out of the rain for private cave tours and strapping on boots for a muddy hike through the vines. In an image, it’s the warm light of a fireplace through a half-empty bottle of wine. Or the skeleton of a leafless vineyard, revealing the vines’ stark linear architecture in blocks and rows.

All across Sonoma, dozens of wineries moonlight as hotelier and concierge. This time of year, in the offseason, you can take your pick and experience, if only for a weekend, what it feels like to live among the vines.

Soda Rock Winery

One of four guest rooms at the Soda Rock Winery in the Alexander Valley. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
One of four guest rooms at the Soda Rock Winery in the Alexander Valley. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

This restored 1869 old-stone winery, which once housed the Alexander Valley general store and post office, offers four unique getaways. The most unusual is the Water Tower Suite, a converted wooden water tower perched high above the property. Step inside and look up to see a massive staircase system that recalls an Escher painting. The upper floor is all bedroom, with just enough space for the king-size mattress, but perfect for stunning panoramic views of surrounding vineyards and Alexander Valley.

“It’s so still you can hear the coyotes at night,” said Sydney Wilson, daughter of owners Ken and Diane Wilson, who rents out the lodgings.

The Artist Den is the most minimally decorated, accented by artist Wade Hoefer’s dreamy landscape paintings. (That’s his studio behind the winery). The best outdoor entertainment spot is the long wooden table and barbecue alongside the Barn Suite. And by far the best wake-up call is the vineyard that beckons only feet from the foot of your bed in the Vineyard Suite.

8015 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-433-3303, sodarockwinery.com. Winter prices $185-$285 for wine club members, $285-$400 for nonmembers.

Thomas George Estates

Guests can stay in one of three 1920s era ranch house cottages at the Thomas George Estates along Westside Rd. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Guests can stay in one of three 1920s era ranch house cottages at the Thomas George Estates along Westside Rd. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Taking over what was once Davis Bynum Winery, the father-son team of Thomas and Jeremy Baker has made the most of the four 1920s-era guest houses that line the entrance to the Westside Road winery southwest of Healdsburg.

The crown jewel is the three-bedroom Pinot Noir House and its veranda pool overlooking the vineyards. Throw in a hot tub, barbecue and full kitchen and it’s a hidden Wine Country home away from home.

“I like to call it a rustic elegance,” said Nancy Castro, who fell in love with the guest houses while vacationing as a wine club member before becoming the hospitality manager. “It’s not hard to get that ‘I forget where I live’ feeling.”

Depending upon your mood, take a private cave tour or hit the hiking trail that starts just feet from the crush pad and winds up to Baker Ridge Vineyard overlooking the Russian River Valley. Take a picnic lunch or a helicopter tour ($600 for one hour) that flies to the winery’s Cresta Ridge Vineyards in Green Valley.

8075 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8031, thomasgeorgeestates.com. $150-$400 for wine club members, $300-$800 for nonmembers.

Landmark Vineyards

The guest suite at Landmark Vineyard has a porch overlooking the vineyards in the Sonoma Valley. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The guest suite at Landmark Vineyard has a porch overlooking the vineyards in the Sonoma Valley. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

It’s not uncommon to hear the clink of wine glasses while staying at the Guest Suite just off the tasting room at this cozy Kenwood winery. Or the soft thud of bocce balls on the nearby clay court. Under the gaze of towering Hood Mountain, this inviting room (which doubles as a honeymoon suite during the wedding season) comes with a private patio and, for those wintry downpours, a fireplace and DVD player stocked with winery-based films such as “Sideways,” “A Walk in the Clouds” and “Bottle Shock.”

“During the winter down time, it’s like you have the whole winery to yourself,” said tasting room manager Donna Carroll, “especially when everybody goes home around 5 in the evening.”

Charming with dormer windows, the larger Guest Cottage overlooks the vineyards and offers a wide front porch and full kitchen.

101 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood, 707-833-0053, landmarkwine.com. Winter special $215-$250, with 20 percent discount for club members.

Larson Family Winery

Guests can rent the Civil War-era farmhouse at the Larson Family Winery in Sonoma. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Guests can rent the Civil War-era farmhouse at the Larson Family Winery in Sonoma. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Maybe it’s the “Three Labs Crossing” sign that warns visitors or the pothole-dotted Millerick Road leading in, but this Civil War-era farmhouse, known as A Captain’s House, is by far the most remote-feeling of the winery getaways.

Only a stone’s throw from the overgrown Sonoma Creek, the four-bedroom, two-story 1860s house was built by a steamboat ferry captain who needed a place to stay after his long hauls from San Francisco.

Make sure to spend time in the converted Carneros barn that doubles as a rodeo museum, spotlighting archival photos and medals that demonstrate what was once Millerick Ranch and the popular Sonoma Rodeo.

“And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can hike or bike down to Wingo. It’s a ghost town about three miles down the dirt road,” said Erin Bush, Larson’s marketing manager. Just be ready to introduce yourself, “because there’s a guy who still lives there.”

And a word of warning — the tempestuous Sonoma Creek has been known to flood during the winter, washing out the road and access to the winery. So be flexible and ready for an adventure.

23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma, 707-938-3031, larsonfamilywinery.com. $350 for up to four people, $450 for up to nine people.

From Farm to Fridge

David and Kristine Beck at Twisted Horn Ranch in Bloomfield, California. (Photo by Erik Castro)

Imagine an online grocery store where the best of local meats, cheeses, vegetables, breads, fruits and gluten-free goodies could be ordered for next-day delivery or pickup, potentials of deliciousness ready from your screen.

Jason Gooch carrying an assortment of freshly laid eggs at Wyland Orchards his family owned and operated pastured egg ranch in Petaluma, California.(Photo by Erik Castro)
Jason Gooch carrying an assortment of freshly laid eggs at Wyland Orchards his family owned and operated pastured egg ranch in Petaluma, California.(Photo by Erik Castro)

A service called Good Eggs is bringing locally grown and made food items to customers throughout the Bay Area via its new website, with orders assembled for home delivery or pickup from a range of locations, with a strong lineup of Sonoma County purveyors in the mix.

“We want to make a market for the good guys,” said Clint Schmidt, who oversees marketing for Good Eggs.

Launched last February, Good Eggs finds and partners with farmers and food makers who aim for that elusive combination of ethical and worth eating.

“We’re pretty stringent,” Schmidt said. “(Products) need to be local and good quality.”

Good Eggs’ producers are expected to run their operations with integrity and serve their local communities, paying their employees fair wages, treating animals humanely and avoiding synthetic inputs as much as possible. There are other criteria, starting with transparency about their practices and ingredients.

Word is starting to spread among purveyors with quality goods to sell. The company works with approximately 300 food suppliers in the Bay Area, and has a total of 500 across the United States. Co-founder Rob Spiro told SF Weekly that Good Eggs filled an estimated 200 to 300 orders a day last summer, and has plans to scale up to 2,000 orders a day in the Bay Area alone. Its first phase has been so successful that Brooklyn, New Orleans and Los Angeles have emerged as additional pilot marketplaces for the service.

Jon Bowne of Gypsy Cheese Co. in Valley Ford said it’s difficult to make a profit as a small food producer, especially when having to rely on traditional distribution networks that demand low prices to make room for their own markup.

“Good Eggs provides a venue for direct-to-consumer sales but doesn’t require as much of the labor, fees, permits and equipment that farmers markets demand,” he explained. “This allows us to realize a much higher margin on sales.”

It also provides a cutting-edge, enjoyable buying experience for customers, who Bowne said are high-quality clientele for a craft-food producer — and that’s important.

“These high-value customers help create a buzz for the product,” he said. “And it appears that Good Eggs is growing rapidly. I can’t think of another sales venue that could match its likely growth trajectory.”

Shelley Mainzer is one of those customers. She works and lives in San Francisco and joined the service in February 2013.

“You know how you think food is supposed to taste but then you buy something at the grocery store and it maybe smells good but has no flavor or tastes like water?” she asked. “Good Eggs is the complete opposite. It’s like being on the farm, picking things fresh every time I get a delivery. Everything tastes amazing, too.”

She loves knowing which farm grew her food and having direct contact with many of the farmers.

“It’s made cooking more exciting for me,” Mainzer added. “I try new things and eat so much more healthy and it’s easy; they deliver to my office. Everything about them gets me excited about farm-fresh, healthy, delicious food.”

ason Gooch with an assortment of freshly laid eggs at Wyland Orchards his family owned and operated pastured egg ranch in Petaluma, California. November 14, 2013. (Photoby Erik Castro)
ason Gooch with an assortment of freshly laid eggs at Wyland Orchards his family owned and operated pastured egg ranch in Petaluma, California. November 14, 2013. (Photoby Erik Castro)

In the Bay Area, Good Eggs includes products from as far north as Sonoma County, to Pescadero in the south and Yolo County in the east. It’s a crucial distribution outlet for Sonoma purveyors wanting to reach a large area.

“One of our challenges as a new company with a new product was to get our product to the right marketplace,” said Kristine Beck of Twisted Horn Ranch in Bloomfield. “Farmers markets are good but time-consuming, and we had full-time day jobs and weekend ranch work. Selling from the ranch works, but it’s a narrow group we could reach that would be driving almost to Bodega Bay to pick up beef. Grocery stores would work but we were too small to supply what was needed. Good Eggs solved all that for us.”

Twisted Horn and other vendors who qualify for Good Eggs are not required to pay upfront nor create any additional advertising or marketing. The model also works for many vendors because inventory can fluctuate.

“For us that was important, as we have varying amounts of inventory and we didn’t know how fast things would move,” Beck explained. “We have a very long lead time to get new inventory, so that works well for us to have flexibility. But one of the best things about Good Eggs is home delivery. We’re excited to be able to have our beef delivered right to the customer.”

Delivery areas and pickup locations are, for the moment, concentrated where larger populations exist. They include a handful of San Francisco neighborhoods, Oakland, Berkeley, Marin and parts of the Peninsula. Purveyors can also create their own pickup points; Twisted Horn is considering one in Petaluma.

Sonoma County is well represented on Good Eggs. Here’s who is involved:

Bloomfield Farms, Petaluma: Bloomfield grows certified-organic and heirloom produce, offering seasonal salad mixes, red little gem lettuce, small CSA share boxes and more through the Good Eggs site. The farm consists of 45 acres in the Estero Americano Watershed roughly between Bloomfield and Valley Ford and specializes in cool-weather crops like spinach, broccoli and strawberries. Large groups are invited to tour the farm by appointment with the option to include lunch, made either by chef Brandon Guenther of nearby Rocker Oysterfellers or chef Gerard Nebesky of Gerard’s Paella. But the best experience of all might be the Sunday UPicks, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., when visitors are invited to harvest their own organic produce, buy farm fresh eggs and the like, then stay for brunch, all for $30. bloomfieldfarmsorganics.com

Chalk Hill Cookery, Healdsburg: Founded by chef Matteo Silverman, previously of San Francisco-based vegetarian restaurants Green’s and Millennium, Chalk Hill makes vegan baked goods, some also raw and/or gluten-free, including chocolate macaroons, lavender shortbread, toffees and granola. Product packaging is made from biodegradable cellophane. Silverman also sells caramel corn, raw golden flax seeds and even palm sugar, a low-glycemic sweetener that’s also organic. Chalk Hill Cookery is also a caterer able to create four-course vegan dinners. chalkhillcookery.com

Gypsy Cheese Co., Valley Ford: Gypsy Cheese is a small, husband-and-wife-led operation making small-batch cheeses from raw goat’s and cow’s milk, sourcing the milk from other nearby family farms. Its Caravan Gold is a feta-style cheese marinated in local olive oil and herbs. Gypsy Rose is a semi-hard cheese aged for several months. Former lawyers, Jon and Lauren Bowne started production just last year. gypsycheese.com

Happy Hens Farm, Petaluma: From Sonoma Mountain, Happy Hens raises chickens and ducks (and their eggs), heritage pork and grass-fed beef, lamb and goat. Herding dog Jack and resident llama Hans look over the flocks, which are given free rein to roam around together. Jack has inspired the launch of ranch-made dog treats, too, made from fresh meats. Happy Hens will soon be organically certified. In the summer Farm Camps go for two-week stretches, bringing in children to take care of the animals and the farm, around carefree days of farm-related arts and crafts, storytelling, gardening and fun. happyhensfarmgirl.blogspot.com

Jellicles Farm: Jellicles is a “tiny patch” of farmland in Santa Rosa, making honey, ghee, salts (with rosemary, lavender or fennel) and herbal teas. For Good Eggs, Jellicles also sells plant starts, dried flowers, seasonal decorations and Thai chiles and LabLab beans. facebook.com/jelliclesfarm

Twisted Horn Ranch, Bloomfield: Twisted Horn raises Longhorn cattle without the use of hormones or antibiotics, a breed whose meat ends up being lower in fat and cholesterol than chicken, especially since these bovines graze freely and feed on wild grasses. Cuts available include prime rib, steaks, tri-tip, filet mignon, beef heart and ground beef, as well as a line of stocks and sauces. Owners David and Kristine Beck additionally offer visits to enjoy the sunset from the ranch, made all the more comfortable from the sun-filled, 600-square-foot, well-appointed guesthouse, available for overnights. Sometimes they even do a cooking class in the ranch kitchen for up to 10 guests at a time. twistedhornranch.net

Wyland Orchards, Petaluma: Wyland is a family-run farm with chicken eggs, duck eggs, Berkshire pork, lamb and grass-fed Angus beef, including sausage and bacon. Started as an olive orchard in 1999, the owners, Jason and Beth Gooch, soon added a flock of sheep to their land, then chickens, which roam freely and graze beneath the trees. Today, cattle and pigs are also in the mix. No antibiotics or hormones are used. Via Good Eggs, customers can also buy beef heart, tongue, oxtail and offal. wylandorchards.wordpress.com

Serious About the Gin Game

The Spirit Works distillery in Sebastopol specializes in a Sloe Gin, using a traditional English recipe. (photo by John Burgess)

After Timo Marshall proposed to his girlfriend, Ashby, he wanted a meaningful gesture to break the news to her parents. So he gave them a bottle of his family’s traditional, homemade sloe gin.

“That was the biggest thing I could think of doing,” the U.K. native recalled nearly a decade later.

Now the Sebastopol couple want to bring sloe gin to the rest of America, producing what they say is the first traditional English version made in the U.S. The Marshalls founded Spirit Works Distillery in 2013 with a specific eye toward creating the unjustly obscure liquor.

They started out thinking they would buy a farm and grow sloe berries and other products to help some local distillery make a traditional gin. But two things quickly became clear. First, the Marshalls didn’t have the time or money to create such a high-risk, small-audience farm. And second, there wasn’t a small distiller that makes the base liquors —vodka and gin — in the exacting manner that the couple had in mind.

Husband and wife team, Timo and Ashby Marshall, founded the Spirit Works in Sebastopol, distilling whiskey, vodka and gin. (photo by John Burgess)
Husband and wife team, Timo and Ashby Marshall, founded the Spirit Works in Sebastopol, distilling whiskey, vodka and gin. (photo by John Burgess)

So the Marshalls decided to do it themselves, learning from scratch how to make liquor.

Their distillery, in Sebastopol’s new Barlow district, is a gleaming showpiece, with three separate stills enabling head distiller Ashby to make liquors of all sorts, starting with their vodka and gin.

What distinguishes Spirit Works from many distillers, however, is that the Marshalls control every aspect of the process, starting with buying the wheat they grind and brew into the base mash that becomes the liquor. Many distillers purchase premade mash, or even buy premade liquor to infuse with other flavors.

The Marshalls grind California winter red wheat to a fine flourlike consistency, mix it with hot water to make a mash (similar to the process used by beer brewers), then distill that mash into vodka. To that vodka, they add various herbs and spices and redistill it to create gin. That in turn becomes sloe gin when the sloe berries are steeped in the gin to extract the fruit flavor.

“The important thing always to come back to with us is we are a grain-to-glass facility,” Timo said. Since there are hardly any sloe berries grown in the U.S., Spirit Works turned to a source in Eastern Europe. But the rest of the ingredients are sourced as locally as possible.

The Spirit Works distillery in Sebastopol uses whole grains for the mash, then add locally-sourced botanicals such as coriander, citrus, cardamom, and angelica for their gin recipe. (photo by John Burgess)
The Spirit Works distillery in Sebastopol uses whole grains for the mash, then add locally-sourced botanicals such as coriander, citrus, cardamom, and angelica for their gin recipe. (photo by John Burgess)

The process of making sloe gin is straightforward: soak some of the small sloe berries (a relative of the plum) in liquor to extract the purple color and bitter fruity flavor, then add some sugar and let it age.

The result is a silky, fruity concoction that is similar to a rich Port or a French cassis, the liqueur often mixed with Champagne to create a kir royale.

Like many Englishmen, Timo grew up in a family that foraged for sloe berries in the fall; the fruit is freely available on the blackthorn bushes used by many farmers to create hedgerows around their fields.

Collecting the berries, painstakingly preparing them to soak in the liquor, and bottling the sugared juice are part of nostalgia in the English countryside, he said. Families bond over the process, often sharing glasses of the previous year’s product while making the new batch.

“No one farms sloes. … In the autumn we would take these walks: In the U.K., you can walk anywhere, there are public footpaths over everyone’s farms, and you can just forage in the hedgerows for whatever is there at the time,” Timo said. “Most families out there will make a couple bottles or six bottles of sloe gin every autumn.”

Unfortunately, commercial sloe gin has gotten a bad name in recent decades, made with cheap liquor and low-grade flavorings. Only a handful of distillers around the world make sloe gin the proper way.

In its more traditional, professionally produced form, Timo and Ashby said, sloe gin is more bitter and less sweet than the homemade stuff; this allows bartenders to more finely control the flavor profile of cocktails.

Timo Marshall adds juniper berry to gin in the handmade copper hybrid pot still at the Spirit Works distillery in Sebastopol. (photo by John Burgess)
Timo Marshall adds juniper berry to gin in the handmade copper hybrid pot still at the Spirit Works distillery in Sebastopol. (photo by John Burgess)

But even with the differences in homemade sloe gin, the Spirit Works version has gotten a thumbs-up from an important critic: Timo’s father. “He told me, ‘Your great-grandmother would definitely have approved,’” Timo said.

Michael Cecconi, bartender at San Francisco’s Two Sisters Bar and Books and consultant to Sebastopol’s Zazu restaurant, said that Spirit Works’ sloe gin, which sells for around $40 a bottle, revives a “wonderful tradition with a local product.” The intense fruit flavor and modest alcohol (54 proof) make it an excellent ingredient for bartenders looking to make relatively low-alcohol cocktails.

The distillery’s great story, combining family history with the farm-to-glass, do-it-yourself ethos, appeals to customers, particularly in the Bay Area, who are interested in artisan production.

But it’s not just customers who are happy. One of the side benefits of finally debuting their dream drink, Timo said, is that they now have enough sloe gin on hand to actually indulge in a few glasses once in a while, rather than hoarding the annual harvest for special occasions.

“It’s so hard to come by … it’s so luxurious for us to be able to go to our pantry and have a couple of glasses of sloe gin,” he said.

Boutique Bonbons for All

Chelsea Bloom decorates the truffles at Recherche du Plaisir in Santa Rosa. (photo by Conner Jay)

First, there’s the bright snap as a thin cloak of tempered chocolate gives way to rich chocolate ganache (simply, chocolate and cream) that spreads over the palate in dark, delicious glory.

The confections from Gandolf’s Fine Chocolate in Santa Rosa are among the best and most satisfying you’ll find this side of Paris.

Guy Daniels with Gandolf's Fine Chocolates prepares his boutique truffles in Santa Rosa. (photo by Conner Jay)
Guy Daniels with Gandolf’s Fine Chocolates prepares his boutique truffles in Santa Rosa. (photo by Conner Jay)

Guy Daniels, who founded the company (named after his beloved cat) in 1999, explained that tempering, the biggest challenge a chocolatier faces, is what sets his chocolate apart. To temper it, couverture chocolate (a very high-quality chocolate that contains extra cocoa butter, made specifically for this process) is first heated to 114 degrees, then cooled to 82 to 83 degrees, and then heated again to 89 degrees.

“When this is done correctly,” said Daniels, a full-time chocolatier, “the molecules realign themselves. This is essential for enrobing a truffle with snap.”

Tempering gives chocolates their texture and sheen, increasing their visual appeal and improving the way they feel in the mouth. (Untempered, chocolate may taste good but have a spongy texture, look dull or blotchy, or show streaks of fats.) Not all chocolate behaves the same, and procuring couverture chocolate that is consistent is an equally important task.

“I use Guittard,” Daniels explained. “I am very careful, very cautious about this. I cannot afford inconsistency.”

For the ganache, Daniels has more options. He’s a fan of Hawaiian chocolate, in part because of its quality and in part because it is easy to verify claims made about it — for example, that it is organic. When he can get Hawaiian chocolate (very little is produced), he features it in a classic truffle. He also uses other chocolates that pique his interest.

When it comes to flavorings, Daniels is a traditionalist. A delicate restraint is part of his artistic signature.

“From my perspective,” he said, “nothing is better than pure cream and the finest chocolate.”

The best flavorings are, he believes, the tried-and-true classic combinations that have endured for decades. Hazelnuts, macadamia nuts, dried fruit, espresso, Kahlua and amaretto have long been praised for their affinity with chocolate.

Gandolf's Fine Chocolates get ready to be shipped out in Santa Rosa. (photo by Conner Jay)
Gandolf’s Fine Chocolates get ready to be shipped out in Santa Rosa. (photo by Conner Jay)

Yet Gandolf’s biggest seller is a salted caramel truffle, a simple combination of caramel-chocolate ganache topped with a bit of flaky salt.

“People who buy this one buy a lot, not one or two truffles, but boxes of truffles, and they don’t typically buy other flavors,” Daniels said.

Come Valentine’s Day, Nipple of Venus, popular year-round, garners even more attention, thanks to both its name and its suggestive slash of tempered white chocolate atop a classic dark chocolate truffle. Fans of the 2000 movie “Chocolat,” starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche, will recognize the name.

Gandolf’s chocolates are available at gandolfsfinechocolate.com. Contact Guy Daniels at 707-861-0489. Prices range from $2 per truffle to $48 for a box of 24.

When More is More

A chocolate purist might be satisfied with a single Gandolf’s truffle. But for many, more is always more when it comes to chocolate, and truer than ever on Valentine’s Day. And it’s not just in quantity, but also in flavor combinations that push the boundaries of tradition.

For such delicacies, look no further than Recherche du Plaisir, a sweet little sweet shop in Santa Rosa where chocolatier Lucy Gustafson crafts truffles and other bonbons, French macarons and more. Flavors range from classic dark chocolate and salted caramel to red-hot ganache; dark chocolate spiked with ancho chile and other spices; strawberry preserves with white chocolate; dark chocolate hearts filled with white chocolate and peppermint; and the Violet Beauregard, made of white chocolate and blueberry preserves.

The shop has beautiful containers, too, including a gorgeous heart-shaped box crowned with circular swirls of thin red ribbons that holds nearly three dozen morsels.

Recherche du Plaisir is at 3401 Cleveland Ave., Suite 9, in Santa Rosa. For more information, call 707-843-3551 or visit www.rdpsweets.com. Prices range from $2 for a single bonbon to $74 for a heart-shaped box of 33.

Wines for every occasion

Whether fancy or casual, there’s a wine for every occasion.

Sometimes the occasion calls for something fancy; other times, all that’s needed is a good, honest wine. Here are some recommendations to suit a range of wintertime moods and events, from a romantic, fireside Valentine’s Day to a Super Bowl party.

Sauvignon Blanc for Chinese New Year

If you like:

Merry Edwards 2012 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($32)
Edwards has built her substantial reputation on producing silky, voluptuous Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley, but she’s also a master of this white varietal, expertly crafting a wine that’s equally textural and hedonistic. Hearty in fig and lychee fruit, it also has a floral component. It’s an ideal wine for spicy Chinese noodles and salads, and rich and creamy enough to stand up to fish dishes and stir-fried garlic scallops.

Then try:

Casey Flat Ranch 2012 Open Range California Sauvignon Blanc ($15)
Made by up-and-coming Napa-based winemaker Laura Barrett, the wine is a steal for its high quality. Grapes were sourced from throughout the North Coast, including the Casey Flat Ranch in Capay Valley, as well as Lake and Mendocino counties. Slightly herbal with balanced layers of grapefruit, tropical fruit and lemon, it has acidity and structure to spare. Pair it with fresh oysters, or long noodles and leafy greens, two good-luck foods.

Brut Rosé for Valentine’s Day

If you like:

Inman Family 2009 Russian River Valley Brut Rosé Nature Sparkling “Endless Crush” ($68)
Disgorged in September 2012, Kathleen Inman’s sparkling brut rosé is made from her estate OGV Pinot Noir grapes. It makes for a romantic sharing à deux, inspired by Inman’s own 25th wedding anniversary. A wine of great depth, brightness and personality, it tastes of fresh-picked strawberries and cherries, with a streak of citrus and brioche right out of the oven.

Then try:

J Vineyards & Winery Russian River Valley Brut Rosé ($38)
A salmon-hued bubbly resplendent in strawberry and brioche flavors, this is another wonderful wine for Valentine’s Day: soft and dry, with Meyer lemon and lime tones from the small amount of Chardonnay blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Crisp acidity provides a steady backbone and superb refreshment.

Rhone White Blends for Groundhog Day

If you like:

Sheldon 2012 Sonoma Coast Vinolocity Blanc ($30)
Grenache Blanc with smaller percentages of Viognier and Roussanne, Vinolocity is flinty with lime and green apple, a streak of spice and ripe peach and pear notes peeking through. Fermented in stainless steel, it’s dry, layered and made in very small quantities; get yours now.

Then try:

Bump 2011 Fortune Sonoma Valley White Wine ($20)
Bump’s first bottling of a white Rhone-inspired blend is comprised of Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc, grown in a vineyard near the town of Sonoma. The wine is very floral in aroma; in the glass, there are hints of Meyer lemon and honey.

Zinfandel for Cozy Meals, Super Bowl Parties

If you like:

Beltane Ranch 2012 Sonoma Valley Estate Zinfandel ($44)
The family behind the Glen Ellen bed-and-breakfast broke into the wine business a few years ago with an estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc, using grapes it once sold to the likes of Cakebread Cellars in Napa Valley. In late 2013, Beltane released its first Zinfandel, with spicy blackberry and leathery tannins. It’s still a baby, showing tremendous potential to age.

Then try:

Quivira 2011 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($22)
Quivira’s “starter” Zinfandel tastes deliciously of its appellation, accessible in its soft layers of spice and brambly plum and blackberry fruit. With plenty of balancing acidity, especially from a cool vintage, it’s ready to be paired with a wide range of dishes, including pizza, spaghetti and meatballs, and Super Bowl barbecue.

Syrah for Slow-Braised Meats

If you like:

Failla 2011 Estate Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview Syrah ($62)
A classic, cool-climate Northern Rhone-style Syrah, this wine is a savory study in pepper and tobacco personality, with the notion of fruit a mere suggestion. Smelling and tasting much like roasted meat itself, it will happily accompany more, whether it’s slow-braised or roasted beef, pork, venison, lamb or duck. No matter the meal, what you’ll remember most is this bottle.

Then try:

People’s Wine Revolution 2011 Moon & Sun Massa Ranch Yountville Syrah ($18)
Made from organically grown grapes by Matt Reid, the former custom-crush winemaker at Failla, this Syrah generously imparts a grind of black pepper and briary black and blue fruit, making it a good wine to pair with hearty wintertime meats slathered in mushrooms and bacon, or midweek slow-cooker pork tenderloin.

The Train is Coming

John and Pat Rich ride along the multi-use trail next to the SMART tracks, between 8th Street and College Avenue in Santa Rosa November 1, 2013. The trail is being extended alongside the tracks, allowing cyclists and walkers to move from Cloverdale to Larkspur. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Someday you’ll be able to travel from Cloverdale to Larkspur and back without driving your car.

Thinking of the train on the new Sonoma Marin Rail Transit (SMART) system? Well yes, that too. After years of debate, its first phase is expected to connect Santa Rosa and San Rafael by early 2016.

Illustration by Dennis Bolt
Illustration by Dennis Bolt

But just as significant — some might say more so — is the 71-mile pathway being created parallel to the train tracks that will allow walkers and cyclists to move from Cloverdale all the way down to Larkspur, where they can find the San Francisco ferry. The trail, 54 miles of off-road path and 17 miles on city streets, may be part of the larger rail project but it is on a separate construction track.

Already there are parts of it you can enjoy.

Ultimately the trail will connect 10 cities, 14 SMART stations and thousands of people in Sonoma and Marin counties. Of course, it’s not as simple as it might sound. With two counties, 10 cities and Caltrans involved, you knew it wouldn’t be.

Of the 47 segments along the length of the trail, a whopping 22 of them are currently the stuff of dreams. The latest government analysis pushes them off into a vague future, kept on the drawing board by cost or technical complexity.

Sections of the trail already exist in stretches previously built by counties or cities, and will be folded into the larger pathway from Cloverdale to Larkspur. That includes a stretch of the Joe Rodota Trail in Sonoma County and several segments in southern Marin County.

Just last fall, a short section opened in Santa Rosa, running from Eighth Street to West College Avenue, just north of Railroad Square. It’s already popular with cyclists and walkers.

The rest won’t exactly be built in order, from one end of the line to the other. Some of the cities will create their pieces of the trail in a kind of patchwork as staffing, weather and funding allow. Most of the trail will be built by SMART.

In the meantime, follow our map, at least with your eyes. Covering that ground on foot will come later. Seven new sections are ready to be assigned to contractors, and should be finished in late 2014 or early 2015.

As for a date when the very last stretch of pathway will be finished? We wouldn’t even venture a guess.

Hard Cider Soars

Jolie Devoto Wade, and her husband, Hunter Wade, gather the last of the fallen apples from their Devoto Gardens west of Sebastopol. (photo by John Burgess)

The country is going mad for hard cider, traditionally made from apples that have been fermented and aged, sometimes in oak, much like a wine.

Fresh squeezed apple juice at Tilted Shed Ciderworks near Forestville. (photo by Kent Porter)
Fresh squeezed apple juice at Tilted Shed Ciderworks near Forestville. (photo by Kent Porter)

An American mainstay since Colonial times, cider lost much of its fan base during and after Prohibition. But now it’s roaring back, with consumption up 50 percent in the last decade, according to the Beverage Trade Network (statistics show cider drinkers to be overwhelmingly young and female).

In Sonoma, the charge is being led by artisans eager to replant and rediscover the heirloom apple varieties once grown in abundance for cider — apples that tend to be tarter than the ones we like to eat.

Versatile and relatively low in alcohol and price, ciders make for a fun new way to test theories on pairing drinks with food. Here are two local cider producers to know.

Devoto Orchards Cider

Jolie Devoto-Wade of Devoto Gardens & Orchards is a second-generation farmer whose family has grown more than 55 varieties of organic, dry-farmed apples just west of Sebastopol for close to 40 years. With her husband, Hunter Wade, she oversees 15 acres of apples among a few other crops, including flowers and Pinot Noir grapes.

Jolie Devoto Wade, and her husband, Hunter Wade, have launched Apple Sauced Cider, using the family’s Gravenstein apples for the cider. (photo by John Burgess)

A few years ago, the couple decided to return to the family farm after studying cider-making in the north of Spain. They soon launched a line of hard ciders made from organic Gravensteins. The first, Save the Gravenstein, was produced from 15 tons of organic apples with the goal of ramping up production substantially year to year, all in an effort to, as the name says, save more Gravenstein trees from being replaced by other crops, including vineyards.

At 6.9-percent alcohol, Save the Gravenstein ($12.99 a bottle) is a food-friendly cider that’s also enjoyable on its own. The most recently released vintage, from apples harvested in August 2013, has 5 percent Akane, Burgundy, Hubbardston Nonesuch, Pink Blush and Pink Pearl apples added to the Gravensteins. It’s a fine partner for sharp cheeses and seafood.

Devoto Orchards’ Backyard ($12.99 a bottle), released in October 2013, is made from Gravensteins grown in neighbors’ backyards, a project in partnership with Slow Food Russian River. Sales proceeds benefit the nonprofit group.

Ellen Cavalli and Scott Heath, striking their best "American Gothic" pose, are in the second year of production of their Tilted Shed Ciderworks, north of Sebastopol. (photo by Christopher Chung)
Ellen Cavalli and Scott Heath, striking their best “American Gothic” pose, are in the second year of production of their Tilted Shed Ciderworks, north of Sebastopol. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Tilted Shed Ciderworks

Another husband-and-wife operation, Tilted Shed gets many of its specialty apple varieties from Devoto and is planting its own trees on a 5-acre property near Forestville.

Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli first experimented with making cider in New Mexico, but their journey eventually led them here, where they knew they could “elevate the apple to greatness,” as Cavalli said.

They have approximately 2 acres planted to heirloom cider varieties, including the traditional Muscat de Bernay, a bittersweet variety native to Normandy, France, and the slightly sweeter Roxbury Russet, bred in America as far back as the 1700s. Cavalli and Heath ferment their ciders to dryness, aiming for a savory, full-bodied style.

They offer a handful of ciders, from Lost Orchard Dry at $10 a bottle (quite tannic and dry) to January Barbecue Smoked at $8.50 a bottle (the apples are wood-smoked before fermentation, meant to accompany smoked meats, seafood and aged cheeses). The 2013 Barbecue Smoked bottling will be released in mid-January.

Tilted Shed also just released a new cider from the 2012 harvest, Barred Rock Barrel-Aged Cider, a plush, dry, savory winter warmer made from late-season heirloom apples ($9 for 375 ml). Aged in Kentucky bourbon barrels, Barred Rock offers notes of amaretto, vanilla and toasted marshmallow.

Neither Tilted Shed (tiltedshed.com) nor Devoto Orchards (devotocider.com) have tasting rooms; visit their websites to learn where to try and buy their ciders.