What Would You Choose For Your Last Meal?

In Sonoma, aromas and flavors tempt and ultimately convince us to splurge on decadence or run the risk of regret, going to our grave without tasting something extraordinary. With this in mind, we asked some locals what their final meal would be.

John Ash
John Ash

JOHN ASH, Santa Rosa chef, author and culinary instructor extraordinaire, narrowed the scope of his answer by focusing on “stuff from this part of the world.” His picks? Dungeness crab cakes, grilled lamb chops with mint salsa verde, wild mushroom sauté and a fresh peach galette for dessert.
For wine, Ash would choose a Sauvignon Blanc or neutral-oak Chardonnay to pair with the crab, and a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir for the lamb.
“The menu for my last meal is based on what I’m familiar with,” Ash explained, “and it underscores how lucky I am to live in such a beautiful part of the world.”

Carrie Brown
Carrie Brown

CARRIE BROWN, owner of Healdsburg’s Jimtown Store, said her last meal would be reflective, “an intersection of food and memory.”
The questions “where and with whom” become more important than the menu, Brown said. She envisions a gathering with family and friends, sitting near the ocean, feeling and smelling the soft, briny air while eating oysters with a mignonette sauce and sipping Champagne. Brown said she might uncork Canard-Duchêne Cuvée Léonie Brut or perhaps an Iron Horse sparkling wine, which is “a Sonoma County treasure.”
From a philosophical point of view, she said, food and drink are crucial to every meal, whether it’s your last or not. And yet, for that last meal, it turns out Brown is ambivalent. “Now that I think about it,” she said, “maybe all I want is a slice of cake and a perfect cappuccino.”

John Lasseter
John Lasseter

JOHN LASSETER said it would be criminal not to have comfort food at his final feast.
“Who cares about calories if you’re about to croak?” he said.
The Sonoma vintner who doubles as chief creative officer of Walt Disney and Pixar Animation Studios is clear not only on what he would eat at his last supper, but also who would prepare it: his wife and co-vintner, Nancy Lasseter.
“Nancy’s meatloaf, the ketchup kind,” he said in listing his final menu. “Broccoli with rice vinegar in a separate bowl; Nancy’s signature Caesar salad; mashed potatoes loaded with butter and cream; Nancy’s yummy garlic bread; and apple pie — but not made by Nancy, because she threw a pie crust once — topped with my homemade vanilla ice cream.”
To drink? “Lasseter Family Winery Chemin de Fer, because it’s the best wine in the world!”

Kathleen Weber
Kathleen Weber

KATHLEEN WEBER, co-owner of Petaluma’s Della Fattoria café and bakery, said she likes food that’s “unfussy” but also “impeccably prepared.” Her final meal would be “impeccably unfussy”: Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk triple-cream cheese with walnut baguettes and chutney, and pasta with olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon zest, fresh basil and Parmesan cheese.
Weber would pair this meal with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc-based white wine; for dessert, she would have a strong cup of coffee and peach galette.
“An important meal is all about company,” said Weber, whose table would be adorned with flowers arranged by her daughter, Elisa Weber. “I would never want to eat alone. I would want to be with my family and dear friends who would tell me when olive oil is dripping down my chin, and perhaps reach across the table with a linen napkin and gently dab it off.”

Crowd Pleaser – Meadowood

Christopher Kostow chef at The Restaurant at Meadowood. (photos by Chris Hardy)

Intense, focused and globally for his cooking at The Restaurant at Meadowood, chef Christopher Kostow has earned three Michelin stars at the acclaimed St. Helena restaurant, as sought-after a booking as Yountville’s The French Laundry.

His approach is to make delicately delicious food that doesn’t come off as pretentious or over the top. With culinary gardens from which to source at Meadowood, he’s a firm believer in the Napa Valley’s ability to grow menus for each season, inspiring him to forage for ideas and ingredients.

Kostow, 36, will prepare dinner for 1,000 guests and vintner hosts who will attend Auction Napa Valley on June 7 at Meadowood. We asked him how he gets ready for the event.

How much do you love being able to cook in the Napa Valley?

Very much. Coming here and discovering the people and products and wilds has made me a better, more honest chef.

Going from the intimacy of your Meadowood kitchen to cooking for hundreds of people must be mind-bending. What’s different about the way you work in each scenario?

I’m not going to lie. It’s not easy and we have to approach every event with great caution and detail and planning. We will be doing a far more casual, family-style affair for the auction, but we strive to maintain the same level of quality and creativity.

Christopher Kostow chef ofThe Restaurant at Meadowood, working in the kitchen sorting vegetable leaves.What’s the best way to approach a big event like Auction Napa Valley?

I rely heavily on the patience, talent and hard work of my team and the Meadowood team as a whole. Our continued collaboration and communication with the host vintners is key. We’re all very excited to make this year a celebration of Napa cuisine, products, wine and chefs so I’m happy we’re on the same page.

How do you plan the menu and when?

I’ve been contemplating it since we signed on, but the final details will definitely be determined by what’s growing really well in our garden at the time and by our relationships with local purveyors and artisans.

What says Napa Valley cuisine to most people? How would you define it?

Our conception incorporates four main principles: our reliance on our agricultural pursuits; the use of the wilds and foraging; a relationship with our local artisans; and an embracing of the products found here in the valley. These ideas, combined with an understanding of the valley’s history, serve as our blueprint for a burgeoning Napa Valley cuisine.

What’s the trick on riding the fine line between food that is crowd-pleasing and food that opens people’s minds?

Lots and lots of butter … In all seriousness, having that balance between derivative and esoteric is something we’re always conscious of. The key, I think, is to make sure the flavors are always balanced, straightforward and simply tasty. Food that doesn’t taste good makes no sense to me. Delicious has to come first.

What do you drink when the last plate of food has gone out and your day is done?

On a bad day? Scotch. On a good day? Scotch.

The New Wedding Food

Brandon Guenther of Firefly Catering does rustic style weddings and serves meals based on a farms harvest, with fermented vegetables presented in mason jars. (Photo by Charlie Gesell)

After vows are spoken, rings slipped on fingers and the tender marriage ritual sealed with a lingering kiss, a sumptuous wedding feast — as grand as some will see in a lifetime — begins to unfold, first with a nibble and a sip and soon with a cornucopia of carefully prepared dishes to dazzle both the eye and the palate. May jump-starts the wedding season in Wine Country, where there is a growing trend of uniting the land and its bounty to mirror marriage itself. Increasingly, brides and grooms want to eat as close to the land as possible, not just with local foods but actually in the fields and on the farms that produce them.

Firefly Catering - Even beverages are inspired by the land, with specialty cocktails incorporating fruit and vegetable juices, edible flowers and herbs.
Firefly Catering – Even beverages are inspired by the land, with specialty cocktails incorporating fruit and vegetable juices, edible flowers and herbs.

“We do a lot of rustic weddings at farm and barn venues such as Olympia’s Valley and Bloomfield Farms in Petaluma, and Willow Farms in Penngrove,” said Brandon Guenther of Firefly Catering in Valley Ford. “These settings are wildly popular and are the inspiration for decor, style of service and the food itself.”

Guenther often has the opportunity to create an entire feast based on farm harvests, with fermented vegetables presented in Mason jars, deviled farm eggs, and crostini with Humboldt Fog goat cheese among his specialties.

Even beverages are inspired by the land, with cocktails incorporating local fruit and vegetable juices, edible flowers and herbs. If there are apples in the orchard, as there are at Olympia’s Valley, there will be apples on the menu, too.

Family-style service with bountiful platters and bowls is popular, perhaps because the passing of the platters, the sharing, encourages conversation and heightens the festive atmosphere. As summer unfolds, the vessels are filled with colorful heirloom tomatoes crowned with Bellwether Farms ricotta, sunflower sprouts and local olive oil; panzanella, a salad of local bread, vegetables, herbs and a delicate vinaigrette; and grilled wild Pacific King salmon from Bodega Bay.

Firefly Catering often serves meals family-style, such as this salad served in a bountiful bowl and duck and kale dish.
Firefly Catering often serves meals family-style, such as this salad served in a bountiful bowl and duck and kale dish.

Guenther also gets a lot of requests for what he calls whole-beast cookery and he responds with his mobile barbecue pit, in which he can smoke or roast a whole lamb or pig.

However, sophistication and style haven’t vanished from the Sonoma wedding scene. Julie Atwood, an in-demand event planner at her own Atwood Ranch in Glen Ellen and other venues, caters to a slightly older clientele from around the world. She has seen a return to elegance, with show-stopping canapes, multicourse plated dinners and complex compositions replacing family-style service.

Tartare is in high demand, she said. It might be beef tartare served on buttery brioche or ahi tartare offered on tiny wonton chips or in cones of nori seaweed. Savory or sweet shots and shooters are enormously popular. Soups infused with artisan spirits are all the rage.

Bellwether Farms ricotta and local olive oil and crostini with Humboldt Fog chevre and figs are among Firefly Catering's farm-inspired specialties.
Bellwether Farms ricotta and local olive oil and crostini with Humboldt Fog chevre and figs are among Firefly Catering’s farm-inspired specialties.

“Breakfast is hot, too,” Atwood said, underscoring the ongoing popularity of comfort foods, “including anything with farm eggs — chicken and waffles, crepes, individual soufflés — paired with crusty grilled breads and local jams and preserves.”

Atwood’s and Guenther’s clients are increasingly conscious of guests’ dietary limitations and preferences. Guenther said many want vegetarian and vegan options that are more than an afterthought; Atwood’s clients want quinoa with everything and menus that are free of gluten.

They also agree the movement away from traditional elaborate wedding cakes continues.

“Pie,” Atwood said, “is still the new cupcake.”

 

 

White Oak Grill opening

Dustin Valette, formerly of Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen will open his own restaurant in Healdsburg
Housemade charcuterie from White Oak Kitchen, which opens April 25
Housemade charcuterie from White Oak Kitchen, which opens April 25

Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen is expanding: White Oak Grill will open Friday, April 25, 2014 on the grounds of the Hotel Healdsburg.

A more casual, outdoor counterpoint to the upscale DCK, Chef de Cuisine Dustin Valette is offering two course prix fixe menu for $32 as well as a la carte cocktails on dishes.

We’re especially excited about dishes using housemade charcuterie and local cheeses and a sneak peek of menu items like the Smoked Duroc Pork Belly with black garlic emulsion and wild arugula.

On a hot summer’s day, patio-friendly cocktails include rhubarb and lemon verbena gin and The Stormy Blueberry with rum, blueberry liqueur, lime and ginger beer.

Open Friday through Sunday. 317 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, (707) 431-0300.

Moonlight Brewing Beer Maker Dinner

moonlight
Moonlight Brewing Company beer maker dinner at Backyard on April 24, 2014

Cult microbrew fave, Moonlight Brewing (Death & Taxes, Reality Czeck) will be on tap at a special brewer’s dinner at Forestville’s Backyard on April 24. Brewer Brian Hunt recently opened a tasting room in Santa Rosa, and has an avid following amount beer afficianados.

The four-course dinner includes pepper-crusted beef tartar with Saison, wild board sausage with Twist of Fate and spring strawberries with Uncle Ollie. $55 per person, 6566 Front St., Forestville, 820-8445.

Easter Brunch 2014

easterAs if a day off from kitchen duty isn’t enough for mom (or dad), bottomless mimosas, grilled lamb and chicken and waffles should pretty much seal the deal. Here are seven top picks for Sunday, April 20, 2014. AKA Easter Sunday.

Naked Pig: It’s opening day for this much-anticipated Santa Rosa cafe. On the menu from 8a.m. to 3p.m.: asparagus and goat cheese omelet, butter and egg sandwich, pulled pork waffles and bone broth gravy on green onion biscuits. Prices range from $10-$13. 435 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa.

Viola Pastry Cafe: Poutine, top shelf Benedicts and beignets. This is my personal pick for Sunday brunch, where I’ll be dining al fresco. $10-$15, 709 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 544-8830.

Rocker Oysterfellers: Chicken and waffles, gin punch, lamb burgers, gin punch. An Easter egg hunt keeps the kids occupied. Outdoor dining, $29 per person, two courses. 14415 Highway One, Valley Ford, 876-1983.

Mateo’s Cocina Latina: Preston spring lamb hash with Laguna Farm potatoes, Le Bonne Terre Farm carrots, favas, spring garlic, puma spring hen egg, ice cream float dessert. Outdoor seating. 214 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, (707) 433-1520.

SHED: Herb-roasted lamb shoulder with Meyer lemon gremolata and a ragout of spring onions, peas, Fava beans, and fennel, citrus almond cake with fresh strawberries and whipped cream, Ramos soju fizz and a Roderer Champagne cocktail. 25 North St, Healdsburg,
431-7433.

Canneti Roadhouse: Tuscan Easter tasting menu includes deviled quail eggs, roast goat with fried artichokes, $55 per person. 6675 Front St., Forestville, 887-2232.

Zazu Restaurant and Farm: Sticky bun French toast, artichoke bruschetta with burrata, corned beef hash, fried green tomatoes, amarena cherry bellini. $39 per person, 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol (at the Barlow).

Ark of Taste Dinner with Chef Louis Maldonado

ark-of-tasteFor Slow Foodists, this dinner at SRJC’s Shone Farm is the event of the year.

Louis Maldonado (Spoonbar, Pizzando) has created a menu featuring rare Ark of Taste ingredients—foods and food traditions considered endangered and worth preserving—for the $85 per person dinner.

It’s a gastro-exploration centered around an Ossbaw Island Hog (originating on a small island in Georgia and thought to be descended from foundation stock brought by Spanish explorers) that includes crispy pig head and trotter terrine with Tupelo honey; country ham; geoduck clams, smoked daikon and Carolina gold rice; crushed potatoes in pork fat, pork shoulder, smoked ribs with cranberry bean cassoulet and peach leaf meringue.

Ark of Taste Dinner with Louis Maldonado, Sunday April 27, 5-8pm, Shone Farm, info at 894-2815.

Rare(ish) Varietal Tasting at Bergamot Alley

resourceRoughly 93% of Northern California Vineyard acreage is planted to eight grape varieties. The remaining 7% of acreage is home to an impressive aggregation of lesser known varieties. A small but growing force of winemakers champion these grapes, tending terroir and making juice that is swiftly shifting the global perception of California winemaking.

This tasting is a showcase of twenty outstanding Northern California wineries and their ‘Seven %’ Solutions.

Participating Wineries: *Arnot Roberts *Bedrock Wine Co. *Broc Cellars *Dirty and Rowdy *Donkey and Goat *Edmunds Saint John *Forlorn Hope *Idlewild Wines *Jolie-Laide *Leo Steen *Matthiasson *RPM *Ryme Cellars *Sandlands *Stark Wine *The Scholium Project *Two Shepherds *Unti Vineyards *Wind Gap *Nico Wines

$65 per person. Tickets available online.

SATURDAY, MAY 10, 2014 / 1pm-4pm
BERGAMOT ALLEY, 328A Healdsburg Avenue bergamotalley.com / 707-433-8720

Jacinto’s Chef Heads to Napa, Chinese Restaurant Coming?

The interior of Napkins Restaurant and Grill in Napa, courtesy of Napkins Restaurant.
The interior of Napkins Restaurant and Grill in Napa, courtesy of Napkins Restaurant.

Word came on Friday that Erasto Jacinto has joined Napkins Restaurant in Napa as their new executive chef. The former Cindy Pawlcyn chef (Mustard Grille, Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen) opened his namesake restaurant, Jacinto’s Kitchen in Oakmont with brother Pablo in early 2012.

Despite some incredible dishes early on, featuring the bold flavors of Oaxaca, the location of the restaurant inside Santa Rosa’s Oakmont retirement village proved too challenging for the brothers.  Prices were higher than many locals were willing to pay, and BiteClubbers complained over the years that the once-flavorful food became increasingly uninspired.

The good news is that Jacinto will likely thrive at the bustling new bar and grill in downtown Napa, which features American cuisine with a “global influence” and Napans are already applauding the return.

Rumors of a Chinese restaurant to replace Jacinto’s have been floating around for several weeks, and BiteClub has learned that Mei-Don Chinese Cuisine is slated to replace Jacintos in the coming months.