I’m just gonna say it. American pastries can be good, even great, but they rarely hold a candle to the delicate, Old World pastries of Europe. If you’ve been overseas, you know that smell, that swoon-worthy feeling when you plunge headlong in a cream-filled puff of butter, flour and years of perfection. Ca’Momi Enoteca at the Oxbow Market in Napa somehow embodies all of that, stateside.
“Obsessively authentic Italian” only begins to describe their “bigne”, 100% organic cream puffs flavored with orange, vanilla bean, strawberry, hazelnut, coffee and almonds, then drizzled with caramelized sugar or chocolate. You’ll want to buy them by the dozen, because they won’t last long once you’ve popped a few in your mouth.
While you’re there, stop in for lunch or dinner, where they’re currently serving up gnocchi with butter, sage and Parmigiano reggiano, braised cuttlefish on polenta with, fried sweetbreads or lasagna with radicchio.
What else? We also discovered a treasure trove of bitters, booze and shrubs from Napa Valley Distillery at the Market. It’s a grown up cocktail-Candyland, from their own reserve vodka, Meyer lemon liqueur and whiskey to Luxardo cherries, artisan bitters from around the world, flavored vinegars and specialty tonics.
Oxbow Market, 644 1st St. at Soscol Ave., Napa.
Not a fan of their baked items in Napa. But, seriously, don’t take my word for it, try it. My standards are the bakeries in Europe – Italy, Germany, France, etc. Everything here is a HUGE disappointment, even & especially Bouchon Bakery. I do like Costeaux, they’re pretty all right, I would say they’re a B, and possibly the best out here, better than Bouchon, better than Model Bakery, better than Moustache Bakery, etc. Bouchon has the best baguettes in the county, better than Cousteaux, so that brings them up a lot.
The worst are the Bouchon macarons…..they are terrible. Go to France, taste the real thing. Like night and day. The reason is that Keller did not hire a French pastry chef, he hired a guy who was not a baker. The guy is French but was never trained in pastries, and he’s the chief of all of the Bouchon Bakery goods.
The macarons in France are incredible, and tiny. And a taste sensation like you have never experienced in your life.
Oh and, Heather thinks I’m a troll, so just know that I’m a “troll” and have been called one by Heather Irwin herself. So, I guess, don’t pay any attention to me because the owner of this blog on the Pee Dee who basically just writes press releases for new gourmet foods and restaurants (and I have no problem with that, I read her column all the time) but I’m much more discerning than just being a pr flack for some business. So that makes me a “troll”.
Would love to know of a similarly good Italian bakery here in Sonoma County – specifically cannoli . Any suggestions?
As for cannoli – Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg makes cannoli once a year – Christmas Eve. Its best to place your order in advance. The come a 1/2 dozen for $20. 707-433-1913 to place an order.