Page 474 – Sonoma Magazine

Williams-Sonoma Returns

September 2014

By biteclub

Chuck Williams in 1956. A Williams-Sonoma store will open in Sonoma in October 2014.

After several years of planning, permitting and building, kitchen outfitter Williams-Sonoma will be returning to its roots in Sonoma. In celebration of founder Chuck William’s 99th birthday, the store will open in early October at its original Broadway location on the Sonoma Square.

There will be a small cooking school and historic display, in addition to cookware and kitchen gadgets.

The landmark store opened in 1956, when a prescient Williams decided Americans might appreciate European-quality cookware. Just a few years later, Julia Childs’ Mastering the Art of French Cooking kindled a firestorm of interest in his high-end copper pots, pans and knives. utensils. Ironically, Sonoma County has’t had a Williams-Sonoma store since Williams moved his operation to San Francisco in the late 1950s.

You Say Tomato: Sonoma’s Bounty

September 2014

By biteclub

You Say Tomato: There’s no doubt its the very pinnacle of tomato season. In fact, when Biteclub ran into a certain grocery store tycoon recently, he arched a doubtful eyebrow when we suggested great heirloom tomatoes might be available until the end of September.

If you’re gonna get ‘em, get ‘em right now. Aside from local grocers and farm markets (don’t forget the burrata), you can take the easier route and let a pro help. We’re loving:

Salt cod with tomato jam and Bodega Red potatoes, Backyard, 6566 Front St, Forestville.

SunFed Ranch Burger, thick slab of heirloom tomato marinated in balsamic and garlic, mozzerella, pesto aioli, The Breakaway Cafe, 19101 Sonoma Hwy, Sonoma.

BLT’s with Panache: Green Grocer (Original Santa Rosa Market), Twist Eatery (6535 Front St., Forestville), Jack and Tony’s (115 Fourth St., Santa Rosa).

Brown sugar tomato jam, housemade burrata and heirloom tomatoes: Epicurean Connection (122 W. Napa St., Sonoma).

Tomato and chevre gallette: Patisserie Angelica (6821 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol).

Potato and cheddar-stuffed chiles Rellenos on a bed of heirloom tomatoes: Undercover Baking Agency (463 Sebastopol Ave., Santa Rosa).

Keep in mind these are seasonal dishes, so if you have your heart set on something, check first.

Steeped in Family History

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Home of Sam and Robin Sebastiani. (photos by Chris Hardy)

On the oak-studded hillside behind Sam Sebastiani’s Sonoma home, a rocky path winds uphill, just a stone’s throw from the house itself. Is it a deer trail? A forgotten hiking path?

It’s actually the rustic road that Sam’s grandfather, Samuele Sebastiani, traversed many times a day more than a century ago while hauling cobblestones from the hilltop quarry down to Sonoma Creek for transport to San Francisco. Working at the quarry enabled Samuele to save enough money to build his landmark Sonoma winery, Sebastiani Vineyards, in 1904.

It’s fitting, and eerily coincidental, that 11 decades later, Samuele’s grandson now lives alongside that old quarry road and produces a line of small-batch wines dedicated to the memory of his grandfather.

Sam Sebastiani’s affection for his Italian roots and his wine heritage runs deep, and he revels in surrounding himself with memories of where it all began. Not only is his sprawling home ideally located atop Quarry Hill, but family memorabilia pervades the residence that he, his wife, Robin, and their four dogs have called home since 2008.

Before Sebastiani set eyes on the house, he had recurrent dreams about it. In each of the dreams, he was horseback riding in the hills of his childhood and would come across the house. He was speechless when his real estate agent drove him up to what was — quite literally — the house of his dreams.

Sam and Robin's dogs sleeping outside the living room. — Sam and Robin’s dogs sleeping outside the living room.

“I wanted tranquility, and I wanted privacy,” Sebastiani said. He got it, in spades. The large, single-story Craftsman-style residence was a spec home, so the couple were able to put their own touches on it.

Ceiling panels in the dining room, along with wainscoting throughout the house, are crafted from Sebastiani’s grandfather’s redwood wine barrels. There are paintings of the monastery where Samuele learned to make wine. Hand-carved cask heads from Sebastiani Vineyards flank the dining room window with its spectacular views of Gehricke Canyon.

Since the Sebastianis enjoy cooking — he is renowned in the family for his split-pea soup — there’s a large open kitchen complete with a rack of antique copper pots. Glass pendants collected during a vacation in Venice hang over the island, and the kitchen also features paneling made from Samuele’s wine barrels. The overall effect is that of an Old World Italian kitchen, yet with a touch Samuele could not have seen coming: a dishwasher exclusively for glassware.

The home’s furnishings are eclectic, a mix of American and Italian heritage pieces. Viticultural touches are everywhere, from the grape cluster lines hammered into the copper wet-bar sink to grape-accent tiles in the wine cellar off the dining room.

The home is filled with the hand-blown Italian glass bottles Sebastiani, 73, has long fancied, along with his extensive duck decoy collection. On one wall is his certificate of knighthood from the Italian government, in recognition of his work to promote Italian grape varieties. Just across from it are his framed Boy Scout merit badges and his Eagle Scout memorabilia. Around the corner are two life-size suits of armor.

Surrounding the home are olive, avocado, citrus and fig trees, Italian cypress and stone pines. Wisteria, clematis and jasmine scramble over arbors and soothing lavender scents waft around the bubbling fountains. Beyond the garden is the hill where the Sebastianis hike with some of their 15 grandchildren.

It’s the same hill, of course, where he spent his boyhood days, when he wasn’t helping out at the family winery, hosing off floors and rolling barrels.

Old balsamic vinegar barrels in the dining room.

“We lived 200 yards away,” Sebastiani recalled with a chuckle. “I was raised by the old Italians. As soon as you could stay out of trouble, they had you working. Our family code was that if you’re going to give orders, you better have done it.”

When he joined Sebastiani Vineyards full time in 1967, after completing an undergraduate degree and an MBA from Santa Clara University and a two-year stint in the Army, the industry had begun a radical transformation.

“In the 1960s, there was a small movement with a few wine writers,” Sebastiani recalled. “They wanted something to talk about, and it wasn’t jug wines. They were seeking wineries that were making wines with vintage dates and varietal designations.”

So Sebastiani Vineyards joined the Wentes of Livermore, Louis Martini in Sonoma and Napa, and a few others and began the shift away from jug wines. “If you stayed with the Burgundy, Chablis and rosé thing, you were gonna die,” he explained.

After his father, August, died in 1980, Sebastiani assumed the reins at the winery. His mission was to improve quality dramatically. “There was a need to be a standout, not just a player,” he said.

Premium grapes were key, and Sebastiani began his quest with longtime friends and grapegrowers Bob and Fred Kunde in Kenwood. “I negotiated a new contract with quality standards for each part of the ranch,” Sebastiani said. “We put quality standards on each of the varietals. I was ultimately buying every grape off the ranch.”

He also grew his enology staff and bought new equipment. “We proceeded to make some awfully good wines,” he said. “In 1984 and 1985, we won more awards than any winery in America.”

There was friendly rivalry with other winemakers. “Bob Mondavi was one of the greatest competitors in anything he did,” Sebastiani recalled. “He and I got to be good friends because we realized there was room for both valleys and both families. Bob had a knack for surrounding himself with great people.”

Things came to a screeching halt when his mother, Sylvia, abruptly removed him from his position as winery president in 1985, citing concerns about expenditures that Sebastiani deemed necessary.

“I got word that they weren’t happy,” he said simply.

Departing was difficult, but creating a new winery that would embody his vision alone was a tempting alternative. After a long search to find the ideal winery site, Sebastiani and his then-wife, Vicki, opened Viansa Winery & Italian Marketplace in 1989 on a Carneros hilltop south of Sonoma.

American Indian painting and antique wine bottle in the entry way of the Sebastiani home.

“I used to say at Sebastiani that I was trying to create a racehorse out of an elephant,” he explained. “At Viansa, I got to raise a colt to be a racehorse.”

Tapping into his heritage, Sebastiani focused on Italian grape varieties and introduced direct-to-consumer sales and a wine club, rare at the time. He also restored Viansa’s wetlands and created an acclaimed waterfowl preserve — a passion he continues today at Winemaker’s Island, his ranch in Nebraska.

Life was good. “It was a lot of fun,” Sebastiani said. “It didn’t hurt that Italian — quote, unquote — was popular in America. We had an elegant culture to wrap ourselves around.”

Around 2004, as Sebastiani prepared to retire and pass winery duties to his children, a problem arose. Consultants hired by the family said not all the children shared his vision for Viansa’s future. Ultimately, the decision was made to sell the winery.

Dining room with ceiling and wainscoting made from old redwood barrels from Sebastiani winery. — Dining room with ceiling and wainscoting made from old redwood barrels from the Sebastiani winery.

Walking away from a second winery, one into which he’d poured his heart and soul, was doubly bitter.

“You build it up and then you have to leave it. You start to believe that you’ve got a shadow following you around. If I didn’t have religion, I’d probably be sucking my thumb in a corner somewhere,” he said with a wry laugh.

After picking himself up, Sebastiani realized that he now had an opportunity to be free from the demands of a popular tourist stop like Viansa. “My dream was always to have a small winery where your (goal) was to make the best wine,” he said. “For the first time in my life, I was not stuck with anything. I could get my grapes anywhere.”

For what he calls his “swan song,” Sebastiani returned to the Kunde Ranch, now run by Bob’s son, Keith, for Chardonnay and Sangiovese grapes, and found three great spots in Amador County for Zinfandel, Primitivo and Syrah.

Sam and Robin Sebastiani walk down the old quarry road that runs through the backyard to their home.

In collaboration with his former Viansa winemaker, Derek Irwin, Sebastiani created his line of La Chertosa wines, limited to around 1,200 cases a year. The wines are named for the monastery in Farneta, Italy, where Samuele learned the art of winemaking. It’s a respectful nod to the grandfather who walked that quarry road so long ago.

It’s also a fitting finale to a life well lived, one spent celebrating family and heritage. In his memento-filled home, Sebastiani is content and at peace. “I live life day to day,” he said. “I’ve stopped thinking about the future and stopped worrying about the past.”

The Perfect Party Setting

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Guests cheer at the beginning of dinner at the home of Daryl and Lisa Groom. The Grooms hosted a cookout at their home in Healdsburg on Memorial Day Eve. (Photos by Charlie Gesell)

The glorious view from Daryl and Lisa Groom’s home sweeps out over downtown Healdsburg to Geyser Peak and Mount St. Helena and would be hopelessly distracting if it weren’t for the Grooms’ engaging hospitality. Conversation sparkles, food tempts, and the mood is Wine Country generosity at its most genuine.

Guests play games and take in the view of the surrounding hills in Daryl and Lisa Groom's backyard. — Guests play games and take in the view of the surrounding hills in Daryl and Lisa Groom’s backyard.

The vista becomes merely a backdrop for this outdoor escape because the grounds are gorgeous and the goings-on at the Groom home are so much fun. A large stretch of lawn and a shimmering pool set the bucolic scene. There’s table tennis and a giant Jenga block tower made of two-by-fours. And the bocce court beckons.

“We like games that can be played with one hand so you can hold a glass of wine in the other,” Daryl said, showing his affinity for good times and his respect for his profession, as he is one of California’s most acclaimed winemakers.

The Grooms bought this treasure of a property 16 years ago in a private sale, one of the upsides of being as plugged into the community as they are.

“Since we were lucky enough to buy this place, we feel we have to share it,” Lisa explained, and Daryl agreed. “People just fall in love with it, and we love sharing it with other people.”

The property is especially stunning in fall, arguably Wine Country’s finest season for outdoor entertaining; the landscape is ablaze with color, the fleeting light of early evening soft and enfolding.

The home sits on 7 acres on a hill off Dry Creek Road and includes a frequently used tennis court, organic garden, small orchard and chicken coop. There’s even a yesteryear clothesline tucked amid rose bushes and fruit trees.

A working Cadillac nicknamed Colby Red serves as a backdrop.

A 1949 black Cadillac was included in the sale of the house, and it has served as bride-and-groom transport for two couples, friends of the Grooms who were lucky enough to have their weddings at the home.

The first thing the Grooms did was put in a pool and build a 600-square-foot guesthouse, because they often have family visit from their native Australia and dinner guests sometimes spend the night.

The guesthouse is flanked by a commanding outdoor stone fireplace that the Grooms use year-round, especially as the last days of summer turn to fall. “When our children have friends over, it’s the natural gathering place for conversation,” Lisa said. She keeps s’mores ingredients on hand for such occasions.

The roof of the guesthouse extends over the fireplace and an alfresco dining area with a long, welcoming table that is surrounded by a low rock wall. Off to its side is an outdoor kitchen on a deck built by Lisa’s father. The granite-topped kitchen holds a sink, under-counter refrigerator, two gas burners and a built-in DCS grill. There is also a freestanding Weber kettle-style barbecue.

The original house was one story, 1970s-style. Once the outdoor space was spiffed up, the Grooms remodeled, adding a second story and creating 4,000 square feet where they’ve raised their four children — Lauren, 26, Meg, 24, and Kara, 22, who are now off on their own, and Colby, 16, who attends Santa Rosa’s Cardinal Newman High School.

In addition to an up-to-the-minute kitchen with an ample island and high-end appliances, there is a utility room that houses a washer and dryer at one end and a long stretch of counter space at the other. The counter is home to Lisa’s dehydrator and an ice cream maker, and also serves as something like a catering area when they host guests.

The Grooms worked with Gerda Engelbart of Healdsburg when they remodeled, and the landscape plan is credited to Up & Up Landscape in Sebastopol. Colby raises market lambs on the property, keeping a pair in a small shed with a pen.

Daryl and Lisa met when he was a winemaker at Australia’s most famous winery, Penfolds, in the Barossa Valley, and where she was a production assistant. They were a youngish married couple in 1989 when Penfolds purchased 50 percent of Geyser Peak Winery in Geyserville and installed Daryl as winemaker, moving the Grooms to the U.S. What they thought would be a stay of a few years turned out to be permanent, although their connection to Australia remains strong.

In 1997, partnering with Jeanette and David Marschall, Lisa’s sister and brother-in-law in Australia, they bought 87 acres in Barossa Valley, planted Shiraz and Zinfandel, and launched Groom Wines. Daryl is the winemaker, spending a good deal of time in Australia, and the Grooms market the wines in the U.S. from their home office.

Daryl and Lisa set the table and serve food for guests.

Asked if they do the cooking themselves, they answer “Yes!” in unison. Lisa does the shopping, prep work and inside cooking, and Daryl mans the grills. Lisa is a passionate gardener and beekeeper, and plans menus based on what’s fresh and homemade.

At a dinner for 14, Daryl grilled seven racks of lamb slathered with Lisa’s estate-grown blackberry sauce, and roasted potatoes and rosemary from the garden. The meal began with house-made fresh goat cheese with honey from Lisa’s hives. For dessert, there were three sorbets, strawberry elderflower, triple orange and lemon tequila, made with fruit grown on the property and accompanied by Lisa’s honey-basil shortbread.

She plants directly in the ground, dealing with gophers as best she can, saying that when she has her hands in the earth, she feels a cathartic connection to her mother and grandmother, who avidly gardened before her in Australia. Her garden includes a variety of squashes, melons, eggplant, strawberries, raspberries and peppers.

Lisa loves tomatoes, from which she makes “to-mah-to” jam. She currently has Red Brandywine, Green Zebra and Black Russian, among others varieties. “I grow San Marzano for sauce and canning, always an Early Girl for reliability, and a selection of heirlooms, which are more finicky to grow but the fruit is outstanding,” she explained.

Homemade chevre along with freshly picked cherries.

Lisa washes her garden harvest outside in an antique vessel that sits atop an ancient stone fencepost, which drains right back into the ground. She also nurtures abundant greenish-white hydrangeas that were on the property when the Grooms arrived and honor their link to the home’s history.

After Daryl’s storied career at Geyser Peak, and in addition to the Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel he makes for Groom Wines, he added an important element to his resume: Colby Red.

Colby Groom was born with a heart condition and has endured two open-heart surgeries and long recovery times.

He was so thankful for the good care he received that he asked his dad to make a wine that could be used as a fundraiser for heart-health charities. Daryl began producing Colby Red in 2011 with an original goal of donating $100,000. The wine has since raised more than $500,000, and the new goal is $1 million.

As brand spokesperson, Colby has been on the “Today” show and many local TV stations, with speaking engagements across the U.S. and Canada.

Daryl and Lisa love it when their children bring their friends home, and everyone gathers around the outside table to share their lives. A 1950s-style jukebox in the guesthouse has outdoor speakers, often blaring, and the rock wall is a favorite spot for dancing. It’s a place full of love and laughter, and the Grooms wouldn’t have it any other way.

The Finish: Gerda Engelbart

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Architect Gerda Engelbart (photo by Chris Hardy)

An avid ballet dancer into her late teens, Gerda Engelbart still finds a parallel between that fluid use of space on stage and her building-design work today.

“People have a relationship to space even if they’re not aware of it,” she said.

Whether designing the interior of Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria in Geyserville or repurposing wood from a former boarding house in Healdsburg, her instincts in working with her clients are to “help them think of ideas that they never would have thought of on their own.”

From her father, Douglas Engelbart, inventor of the computer mouse, she learned to “break up the box and think outside the box.” From her mother, Ballard, she gained an appreciation for landscape design.

Yet she’s just as willing to redesign a Windsor tract home for a family outgrowing its living space. No matter the scale of the project, “listening is key,” she said. “The word ‘drafting’ or ‘drawing’ means to ‘pull forth,’ like you pull a draft beer or a draft horse pulls the plow. That’s what I’m doing with each client.”

Then: Born in Berkeley and raised in a Joseph Eichler-built house in Palo Alto in the 1960s.

Now: Lives in a 1930s cabin in Healdsburg, with vaulted ceilings and high windows. “I like to call it my mini-Maybeck,” she said, referring to Arts-and-Crafts-style architect Bernard Maybeck.

Studied architecture: California College of the Arts in San Francisco

Age: 60

Favorite analogy: “Rembrandt and Van Gogh are both great painters and the elements of design exist in all of their works; that’s what makes them great. But they’re completely different styles and it’s a personal choice about which one you like.”

Sense of discovery: “A lot of these old houses have beautiful fir underneath the floor and people don’t realize that it can be sanded.”

To unwind: Camping and long walks with her dog, Odin, a Belgian Malinois mix.

Guilty pleasure: “Way too much Sudoku.”

Latest project: A “very modern structure” in Dry Creek Valley for an artist who creates large-scale paintings and needs both living space and room in which to paint and exhibit her work.

Winery Tasting Rooms During Harvest

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Everyone seems to want to be in Wine Country during harvest, the most exciting and beautiful time of the year. There’s a buoyant energy at wineries now, as well as new tasting experiences and tours, many of which take place in the middle of the crush action. Wine writer Virginie Boone recommends these wineries for late summer and fall visits; they are open to the public, typically from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Contact the individual tasting room to confirm.

Anaba, 60 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-996-4188, anabawines.com. In the heart of windy Carneros, Anaba welcomes tasters to enjoy its restored farmhouse and remarkable Rhone-variety wines, in addition to vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. A good spot for picnics, Anaba offers a wine education experience called Beyond the Label, during which each of its wines is explored in detail; there is also a Salon Tasting of flights of wines.

Benziger Family Winery, 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-935-4527, benziger.com. The great folks at Benziger now offer a seated Pinot Noir Experience, a chance to enjoy a guided flight of the winery’s top-notch, cool-climate de Coelo and Signaterra Pinot Noirs with paired bites. The cost is $50 per person, and the experience happens daily at 10:30 a.m. and 2 p.m.; advance reservations are required

Black Stallion Winery, 4089 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-227-3250, blackstallionwinery.com. Posh and hospitable, Black Stallion offers luxury and comfort in equal measure, with plenty of outdoor seating to enjoy the winery’s Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and stellar bottlings of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Charles Krug-Peter Mondavi Sr. Family Vineyards, 2800 Main St., St. Helena, 707-967-2200, charleskrug.com. Charles Krug, where Peter and Robert Mondavi got their winemaking start, remains an impressive blend of old and new, and its epic Redwood Cellar is an airy place to taste. The Sauvignon Blancs are bright and crisp, the Cabernet Sauvignons elegant. Visitors can enjoy myriad tasting options and tours, and can take a bottle of wine to enjoy on the Great Lawn.

Chimney Rock, 5350 Silverado Trail, Napa, 800-257-2641, chimneyrock.com. Take a 90-minute Tomahawk Vineyard tour and sip winemaker Elizabeth Vianna’s Cabernet Sauvignon while listening to discussions on viticulture and winemaking. Gourmet cheeses provide nourishment ($125/person). Tours leave daily at 10 a.m.; reserve early.

DeLoach Vineyards, 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-755-3309, deloachvineyards.com. The visitor experience at DeLoach is always a good one, but owner Jean-Charles Boisset can’t help but continue to up the ante, accentuating the celebration of nature here and the bounty of Biodynamic farming, as he has done at Raymond Vineyards in Napa Valley. This time of year, take part in the MFS Blending Experience, a chance to play with Pinot Noir; it’s offered daily by appointment, at 10:30 a.m. or 1:30 p.m.

Frank Family Vineyards, 1091 Larkmead Lane, Calistoga, 800-574-9463, frankfamilyvineyards.com. Frank Family is a popular Napa Valley stop because of its friendly gardens, picnic spots and affordable tasting fees: $20 for a tasting of four wines, from sparkling to Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. It also happens to inhabit a historic site, the one-time Larkmead Winery, third-oldest in the valley.

Geyser Peak Winery, 2306 Magnolia Drive, Healdsburg, 707-857-2500, geyserpeakwinery.com. A new home for the timeless winery, Geyser Peak is near downtown Healdsburg; visitors can walk or bike to the new digs. Premier tastings start at $10, reserve tastings at $15, and summertime picnic options and seated wine and cheese pairing packages (by reservation) are available to guests.

Grgich Hills Estate, 1829 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, 800-532-3057, grgich.com. The mighty Grgich Hills, a wonderful producer of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, offers a slew of fine visitor experiences, from barrel tasting every Friday at 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., to seated wine tastings with cheese ($40); a rustic vineyard adventure ($125); and grape stomping ($30, Labor Day to Halloween). On any day, the staff will also order box lunches for visitors to enjoy on the grounds.

Hall Wines, 401 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-967-2626, hallwines.com. Home to the gigantic silver bunny sculpture, Hall celebrates wine and art, offering the chance to breeze through its winery enjoying works of modern art and sculptures while sampling its exceptionally high-quality wines. Hall also runs a winery in Rutherford that’s more off the beaten track and can be visited too, by appointment, for tours and tastings.

Hamel Family Wines, 15401 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-996-5800, hamelfamilywines.com. So new that the winery, estate house and wines caves are still under construction, Hamel makes Bordeaux-style wines from four Sonoma Valley estate vineyards. Martha McClellan of Levy & McClellan and Checkerboard Vineyards – and a former associate winemaker at Harlan Estate – makes the wines.

J Vineyards & Winery, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-5400, jwine.com. A glass of bubbly is always a good thing, and this is a well-appointed spot at which to have one, as well as taste J’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. But don’t miss having a sip of Pinot Gris, among its most popular, hot-weather-perfect wines. The J Bubble Room pairs wines with exquisite, locally sourced dishes; chef Erik Johnson is a huge proponent of sourcing locally.

Jordan Vineyard & Winery, 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 800-654-1213, jordanwinery.com. By appointment, Jordan welcomes visitors for walking tours through its beautiful compound, which includes estate gardens where executive chef Todd Knoll sources a cornucopia of produce for winery meals. Tours and seated tastings are held Monday through Saturday throughout the year.

Littorai, 788 Gold Ridge Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-9586, littorai.com. Nestled in the cool Sebastopol Hills, Littorai offers two tasting options, both by appointment only. The first is a Single Vineyard Tasting of vineyard-designated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay ($25); the second is a tour of the Pivot Estate Vineyard, farmed Biodynamically, followed by a tasting ($40). Littorai winemaker Ted Lemon is among California’s finest winemakers and respected throughout the world.

Markham Vineyards, 2812 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-963-5292, markhamvineyards.com. Situated in one of the oldest stone buildings in Napa Valley, Markham makes a wide range of wines and offers a taste of four (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) in its daily Rock & Roll Tasting ($15). The on-site art gallery features the work of music photographer Baron Wolman, with lots of shots from Woodstock and the time he spent shooting for Rolling Stone magazine.

Monticello Vineyards, 4242 Big Ranch Road, Napa, 707-253-2802, corleyfamilynapavalley.com. Come to the Corley family’s Napa winery and sit down to a Jefferson House Reserve Tasting ($30) held in the Jefferson House Reserve Room or on the terrace. Dig deep into single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, or sign up to be winemaker for a day ($90), with a two-hour blending session and walk through the vineyards that ends with a tasting of more wines.

Murphy-Goode Winery, 20 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 800-499-7644, murphygoodewinery.com. Recently refreshed, the Murphy-Goode tasting room feels like a remodeled barn, with ample room to relax, play shuffleboard or linger on the back porch. It also houses a vintage photo booth for taking funny pictures in between sips of wine.

Navarro Vineyards and Winery, 5601 Highway 128, Philo, 800-537-9463, navarrowine.com. The wide selection of crisp white wines and bright, mellow reds is worth the drive to Philo in Anderson Valley, where Navarro’s homey picnic grounds inspire taking one’s time. Plenty of picnic goodies are stocked in the tasting room, including co-owner Sarah Cahn Bennett’s fine farmstead goat cheeses, made down the road at Pennyroyal Farms. Tours into the vineyard are led twice a day, by appointment.

Odette Estate, 5998 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-224-7533, odettewinery.com. PlumpJack’s latest endeavor, Odette Estate, is open daily by appointment for tasting and hosts its popular Secret Cinema movie night Oct. 19. Beginning at 5:30 p.m., it’s a night of food, wine and an old-fashioned drive-in movie ($60/car). The movie is announced the week of the event (that’s the secret part); dressing up is encouraged and Gott’s Food Truck is on hand for the hungry.

Patz & Hall’s Sonoma House, 21200 Eighth St. East, Sonoma, 877-265-6700, patzhall.com. In a well-appointed house in the Carneros region, this chic tasting spot highlights all the delights of Patz & Hall, a specialist in single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Taste four wines for $25 with truffle nuts, or sit down for a discussion and tasting of six wines with meticulously prepared mini-meals ($50). Chances are the day will start off with a glass of bubbly to open the palate. Recently added is the Terrace Tasting, an intimate tableside tasting of single-vineyard wines with local cheese ($40).

Phillips Hill Winery, 5101 Highway 128, Philo, 707-895-2209, phillipshill.com. Newly opened in Anderson Valley, Phillips Hill resides in a two-story, restored apple-drying barn where tastings are held overlooking the nearby creek. French cheeses and charcuterie are served from the on-site commercial kitchen, a nice accompaniment to the elegant Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer made here.

Quintessa, 1601 Silverado Trail, Rutherford, 707-286-2730, quintessa.com. Quintessa has recently built three lovely pavilions overlooking its Dragon’s Hill vineyard block. There, visitors (by appointment) are invited to enjoy a 90-minute immersion into the winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon, from barrel samples highlighting the estate’s 26 distinct vineyard blocks to rare library wines, all paired with local cheeses. The experience lasts 90 minutes and costs $125/person.

Red Car Wine, 8400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-8500, redcarwine.com. Red Car makes some of Sonoma’s most exciting cool-climate wines, from crisp Chardonnays to nicely rendered Pinot Noirs and Syrahs. The whimsical labels alone are worth the trip.

Robert Biale Vineyards, 4038 Big Ranch Road, Napa, 707-257-7555, biale.com. A producer of truly elegant vineyard-designated Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, Biale works with a wide range of historic vineyards throughout Napa and Sonoma. Enjoy the outdoor patio and ponder the views of the surrounding vineyards as you taste through a lineup of fine wines, including the winery’s signature Black Chicken Napa Valley Zin, an ode to bootlegging in Prohibition days.

Rodney Strong Vineyards, 11455 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 800-678-4763, rodneystrong.com. For a comprehensive taste of Sonoma County with expansive views of vines, look no further than Rodney Strong, which offers an estate wine tasting daily as well as the option to try single-vineyard and reserve wines. From its Alexander Valley Cabernets to Davis Bynum Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, there’s a lot to like here. Outdoor picnics are also in order, daily on the winery’s lawn or vineyard terrace, with picnic items for purchase inside.

Roederer Estate, 4501 Highway 128, Philo, 707-895-2288, roederestate.com. Take a tour ($6) of the Anderson Valley home of Roederer Estate and see how some of America’s best sparkling wines are made, then sit on the balcony and breathe in the cool coastal air. Picnics for two ($25) can be ordered ahead.

Rutherford Hill Winery, 200 Rutherford Hill Road, Rutherford, 707-963-1871, rutherfordhill.com. Tasting flights and cave tours happen daily at Rutherford Hill, a lovely tasting room with beautiful views of Napa Valley. But take advantage of the Saturday Blend Your Own Merlot Seminar if you can, a two-hour session that includes wine tasting and a cave tour, followed by the chance to blend, bottle and label a wine of one’s own ($105/person).

Schramsberg Vineyards, 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, 800-877-3623, schramsberg.com. Among the first in California to specialize in sparkling wine, Schramsberg occupies hallowed, historic ground and is home to the oldest hillside vineyards in Napa Valley and some of the first caves dug for storing and aging wine. Take a tour by appointment, and don’t miss the Mirabelle Brut Rosé and other gorgeous sparklers before moving on to taste the J. Davies Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

Seghesio Family Vineyards, 700 Grove St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3579, seghesio.com. Through mid-October, this mighty Zinfandel producer operates Cafe La Brezza, a place to gather and enjoy small plates of Mediterranean-inspired, seasonally sourced foods such as oven-roasted shrimp, white bean salad and ribs with wines by the glass.

Silverado Vineyards, 6121 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-257-1770, silveradovineyards.com. Perched atop a hill off the Silverado Trail, this is a quiet place to visit and enjoy terrace views, plus many tasting options on offer. The Saddleblock Tasting is a good one this time of year; it includes a tour of the Saddleblock vineyard with wines and appetizers ($75/person). Limited to four guests.

Tasting Room on the Green, 9050 Windsor Road, Windsor, 707-687-5089. A partnership of Deux Amis and Mutt Lynch wineries, this dog-friendly spot pours Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and a red blend called Ducks a Miss, made by Deux Amis winemaker Phyllis Zouzounis. Mutt Lynch wines include Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and a limited series of vineyard-designate wines under the Man’s Best Friend imprimatur.

VJB Vineyards & Cellars, 60 Shaw Ave., Kenwood, 707-833-2300, vjbcellars.com. In an Italian-inspired, courtyard-centered villa in the heart of Sonoma Valley, VJB serves steamy coffee and pastries in the morning; panini, pasta and pizza during the day; and samples of its Italian-inspired wines. The winery also stocks co-proprietor Maria Belmonte’s line of sauces, pestos and tapenades, and houses a shop for gelato and specialty chocolates.

Dining Out

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Panna Cotta is served at Baci Cafe & Wine Bar in Healdsburg. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com. Classic Italian dishes, many of them from the northern part of Italy, are expertly prepared by Shari Sarabi, who is originally from Iran but cooks as though he’s from Milan. A large wood-fired oven turns out some of the best pizza in Sonoma County. The sauce Bolognese is the real thing, and there’s tiramisu and panna cotta for dessert. The wine list features wines from Italy and from around Healdsburg. Reviewed 12/1/13. $$$

Backyard, 6566 Front St., Forestville, 707-820-8445, backyardforestville.com. The farmers, ranchers and/or fisherfolk who produce just about every ingredient in every item on the menu are listed by name, and they’re almost all from Sonoma County, and right around Forestville. This is great in-season, locally produced food, ably handled in the kitchen. The wines are local, too. When the place fills up, it gets loud, and the service can be spotty, but the good locavore cooking helps smooth the rough spots. Reviewed 12/9/12. $$-$$$

Line caught seared ahi tuna at the Belly Left Coast Kitchen & Tap Room in downtown Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Belly: Left Coast Kitchen & Taproom, 523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-526-5787, belly707.com. Belly raises the bar for gastropubs in the North Bay, with wonderfully flavorful renditions of staples such as pizza, burgers, steak, barbecued pulled pork, crab cakes, salads and more. Chef Gray Rollin has been tour chef for many popular music acts, and you can imagine band members appreciating his way with comfort food. Two dozen beers on tap and 26 more by the bottle present extensive choices for ways to wet and whet your whistle. Reviewed 4/28/13. $-$$

Bravas Bar de Tapas, 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, starkrestaurants.com. Owners Mark and Terri Stark traveled to Spain and fell in love with the wine-loving, snack-munching, pal-schmoozing culture of the tapas bar scene there. So they brought it back home to join their four other Sonoma County restaurants. The backyard of the pre-war house that’s home to Bravas is transformed into an alfresco venue for tapas-style conviviality. The snacks are extraordinarily diverse and delicious. Scads of Spanish and local wines and sangrias await. Reviewed 12/16/12. $$-$$$$

Café Citti, 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-2690, cafecitti.com. Luca and Linda Citti found the key to success when they started their trattoria in Kenwood a couple decades ago: forget fancy trappings and serve really good Italian food at reasonable prices. It worked and Café Citti has been thrilling taste buds ever since. The basics — lasagna, tortellini or ravioli in brodo, rotisserie chicken, cannoli, tiramisu — are all here and done beautifully. It’s the kind of hole in the wall that visitors to Italy write home about. Reviewed 10/28/12. $$.

Canneti Roadhouse, 6675 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-2232, cannetirestaurant.com. Canneti Roadhouse primarily serves Tuscan food that chef and owner Francesco Torre learned to love as a child in Italy. That means a local version of the Mediterranean diet, with lots of fresh vegetables, olive oil, bread and meat (especially game). A four-course seasonal tasting menu is a good bet, and each course can be paired with wine. During clement weather, there’s alfresco dining out back. Reviewed 5/26/13. $$$-$$$$

Chef Patrick’s, 16337 Main St., Guerneville, 707-869-9161, chefpatricks.com. Although the food is billed as California-French, it also includes lots of Italian dishes. And since Chef Patrick is Vietnamese, there’s a Southeast Asian accent to some of his cooking. His many influences do not result in chaos, but rather in a refined cuisine that includes fish, fowl and beefy favorites. He likes to amp up the flavor profile of popular dishes like beef ragu, which is all to the good. Reviewed 2/10/13. $$-$$$

The Salsiccia Pizza, containing house sausage, red onions, and pecorino, at Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria, in Geyserville. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)

Diavola Pizzeria and Salumeria, 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com. Chef and owner Dino Bugica spent years learning about real Italian food from his real Italian family and by living and working in Italy. It shows in his house-made salamis, authentic pizzas, pasta dishes, entrees and desserts. The salami and cheese appetizer is not to be missed. Diavola is a magnet for food lovers to sleepy, out-of-the-way Geyserville, and deservedly so. Reviewed 5/11/14. $$-$$$$

Dry Creek Kitchen, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, charliepalmer.com. This is Healdsburg’s classiest restaurant and one of its best. The cooking is international-Californian, meaning lots of fresh local ingredients handled with sophistication, such as scallops en croute with a black truffle sauce, and house-smoked Liberty duck breast with a confit of duck leg meat and pork belly joining it on the plate. The pastry chef does excellent work with intricate delicacies. There’s a wine list of more than 500 wines, all of them from Sonoma County, and there is no corkage fee if you bring a Sonoma County wine of your own. All this glamour is not inexpensive, so be prepared.
Reviewed 6/1/14. $$$$

Flavor Bistro, 96 Old Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa, 707-573-9600, flavorbistro.com. In its friendly, unpretentious way, Flavor Bistro is a shining example of Sonoma County’s enviable food scene. There is a great wine list, house-made pastas and pizzas, meats and vegetables from local organic farms, breakfast most days and lunch and dinner every day, and best of all, modest prices on most dishes. All this makes Flavor the go-to place for locals (and wise visitors). Reviewed 12/8/13. $-$$$$

Forchetta/Bastoni, 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-9500, forchettabastoni.com. This review focuses on Bastoni, which serves Southeast Asian street food, with lots of noodles, chicken and rice with spicy hot sauce, salads, curries, and of course, a very good banh mi sandwich. Prices are moderate and there’s lots from which to choose. The full bar is one of Sebastopol’s top spots for get-togethers and friendly fun.
Reviewed 9/22/13. $$

Heirloom tomato salad at The Girl and the Fig in Sonoma. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

the girl & the fig, 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, 707-933-3000, thegirlandthefig.com. The food has never been better at this successful restaurant since proprietor Sondra Bernstein and executive chef John Toulze expanded their repertoire during world travels. The wines are all from Rhone grape varieties from the U.S., France and Spain. The full-flavored menu goes perfectly with the French country theme. Duck confit, steak frites, wild flounder meuniere, pastis-scented mussels — there’s so much to like. Reviewed 2/17/13. $$-$$$

Il Posto, 4211 Solano Ave., Napa, 707-251-8600, ilpostonapa.com. An excellent neighborhood restaurant that has the best characteristics of all good Italian places: The pastas are made from scratch, care is taken to respect the ingredients, and the food appeals to folks of all ages. There’s pizza, of course, and it’s good, especially with the house-made sausage on top. A big wine list enhances classic chicken and veal dishes, cioppino and great desserts. Reviewed 5/4/14. $$-$$$

Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whisky Bar, 115 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-526-4347, jackandtonys.com. Jack and Tony’s has the best whisky bar in the North Bay, with more than 300 selections from around the world, from rough to smooth, cheap to very expensive, and with nuances to satisfy any palate. The restaurant serves crowd-pleasing dishes such as steaks, grilled ahi tuna, sage-stuffed roasted chicken and braised lamb shank. Do not miss the butterscotch pudding, which is made with real Scotch and butter. Reviewed 1/13/13. $$$-$$$$

John Ash & Co., 4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707-527-7687, vintnersinn.com. John Ash & Co. remains the most soigné restaurant in Sonoma County, and the Pat Kuleto-designed “Front Room” is the comfiest watering hole imaginable. Chef Thomas Schmidt keeps the restaurant’s reputation for fine food burnished bright, using fresh, local and seasonal ingredients whenever possible. After all, it was this place that invented Wine Country cuisine. It’s perfect for celebrations of any kind. Reviewed 2/3/13. $$$-$$$$

Monti’s Rotisserie & Bar, 714 Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, starkrestaurants.com. A centrally located site in Montgomery Village makes Monti’s a fine choice for lunches, after-work get-togethers and dinners, when the wood-fired rotisserie is lit and turns out specials of the day, including roast leg of lamb, baby back ribs, prime rib, Liberty duck and veal roast. The restaurant includes an oyster and seafood bar, pizzas, salads, pastas and a long list of specialty drinks mixed by the gregarious bar staff. Reviewed 2/12/12. $$$-$$$$.

Watermelon gazpacho chilled soup with jicama, serrano, cucumber and lime by chef/owner Catherine Venturini of Olive & Vine restaurant in Glen Ellen. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Olive & Vine, 14301 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-996-9152, oliveandvinerestaurant.com. Glen Ellen’s reputation as a stop for fine restaurants got a huge boost when Catherine Venturini and John Burdick opened Olive & Vine in Jack London Village. She and her chef de cuisine, Julie Warner, do an exceptional job exalting local and organic ingredients in their versions of Sonoma cuisine. The menu changes seasonally, but just about everything is worth a return visit. Reviewed 5/20/12. $$$-$$$$.

Pamposh Restaurant, 52 Mission Circle, Suite 110, Santa Rosa; 707-538-3367, pamposhrestaurant.com. This small but mighty Indian restaurant occupies a nondescript corner of the Mission Circle Shopping Center, but the food is anything but nondescript. It’s full-on Indian and Kashmiri cooking, with lamb, chicken, and vegetable curries; a signature dish of lamb in an apricot and coconut sauce; marinated and flash-cooked tandoori chicken; house-made yogurt drinks; perfect creamed spinach and soft cheese; and much more. Highly recommended. Reviewed 7/21/13. $$

630 Park Steakhouse at the Graton Resort and Casino, 630 Park Court, Rohnert Park; 707-588-7115, gratonresortcasino.com. Here’s your big-time casino-style steakhouse. Your 42-ounce prime T-bone for two is $120, your own 20-ounce rib-eye is $54, and filet mignons start at $43 for the “petite.” The meat is as terrific as the prices, and the kitchen also serves up chicken and seafood, like the 28-ounce Northern Australian lobster tail for $149. Side dishes of vegetables, potatoes, and comfort foods like mac and cheese run around $10 extra, each. Ah, g’wan. You only live once. Reviewed 12/29/13. $$$$

Oysters with white verjus and pickled cucumber are served with a yellow tomato panna cotta and local clams at Partake by K-J restaurant in Healdsburg. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Partake by K-J, 241 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707-433-6000, partakebykj.com. Here’s something different. Sixteen of Kendall-Jackson wines are paired with small plates designed for the food to show off the wine and the wine to show off the food. There are also three “tastings” that include a cheese and wine pairing for $25, a five-course vegetarian food and wine tasting for $35, and a five-course chef’s tasting that culminates with K-J’s Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon paired with seasonal meats such as lamb loin. Reviewed 10/13/13.

Riccardo’s Restaurant and Bar, 2700 Yulupa Ave., Suite 7, Santa Rosa, 707-545-7696, ricardossantarosa.com. The main feature of Riccardo’s is the long bar where Bennett Valley-ites like to meet and chat. The food is good American grub, better than the fare at the previous incarnation at this spot, John Barleycorn’s. Big sandwiches include a Reuben, top-notch garden burger and grilled cheese. Entrees include a tender rib-eye steak, brick chicken and salmon. Reviewed 5/18/14. $$-$$$

Rustic: Francis’s Favorites, 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1485, franciscoppolawinery.com. Francis Ford Coppola needs no introduction, but at his restaurant-winery-resort-watering hole in Geyserville, you’ll get one anyway. The restaurant, called “Rustic, Francis’s Favorites,” features the Italian foods of his childhood, plus adult loves such as an Argentine grill serving big portions of beef with chimichurri sauce. The wine list is mostly from Coppola’s winery, and that’s OK. A wood-burning oven makes wonderful pizzas.
Reviewed 11/10/13. $-$$$$

Toki Roll at Shige Sushi Japanese Kitchen in Cotati. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Shige Sushi Japanese Kitchen, 8235 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati, 707-795-9753, shige-sushi.com. A small but cozy room in the heart of Cotati has a big surprise for lovers of Japanese food. The appetizers alone are worth the trip — albacore with thin rounds of jalapeño peppers, poke salad, fried chicken karaage — and much more, all well-prepared by chef Shigekazu Mori. Reviewed 3/10/13. $$

Terrapin Creek, 1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay, 707-875-2700, terrapincreekcafe.com. Owners Andrew Truong and Liya Lin have fashioned one of the most charming restaurants in Wine Country, and the cooking is a shining example of locally sourced ingredients used in refined and thoughtful dishes that never fail to please. Simple soups and salads come to life. Entrees are rich and bold, such as lamb sugo over pappardelle and glazed baby back ribs. The cooking is pure Californian with a hint of French and Asian. Highly recommended. Reviewed 3/24/13. $$$$

Wild Goat Bistro, 6 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-658-1156, wildgoatbistro.com. This small bistro tucked in the back of the Great Petaluma Mill specializes in Neapolitan-style pizza, and that means perfectly made and with crackling thin crusts. But there’s lots more to like, mostly dishes with an Italian flair, including local lamb ragu over pappardelle. The salads are organic, the foods made locally by artisans, and the meats are nitrate-free. A good wine list helps out. Reviewed 3/3/13. $$-$$$

Woodfour Brewing Company, 6780 Depot Street, Sebastopol, 707-823-3144, woodfourbrewing.com. Just what you want in a restaurant: something new and different. The brewery in The Barlow center makes a range of unique beers and ales, and has a cupboard full of bottled beers from all over the world. The food is as ingenious as the beers and beautifully displayed on the plates. It shows great creativity on the part of the chefs as they turn unlikely ingredients into exceptionally delicious dishes. Reviewed 9/8/13. $$

Because We’re Hoppy

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

The Quacker, featuring maple leaf ground duck, seasonal chutney, swiss cheese and fried onion rings, is paired with Maibock beer at Bear Republic Brewing Co. in Healdsburg. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Move over, nachos and chicken wings. Local gastropubs are redefining what it means to belly up to the bar and grab a bite.

Taking their cues from award-winning craft brews made on-site or close by, local chefs are elevating beer and food pairings to a new level with carefully curated menus that highlight both the brews and the food.

Beer and cheese soup with Hopmonk Tavern Ale.

Jamil Peden of Woodfour Brewing Co. in Sebastopol’s Barlow center is one of a new breed of Michelin-star-worthy chefs whose dishes are a mix of haute and hearty, backed by beer. Bar snacks include green-garlic potato chips, pickled sardines with beet tartare, homemade pickles, and deviled eggs with horseradish and paprika, which work beautifully with the sour farmhouse and stout ales produced at Woodfour.

Typical pub fare like fish and chips gets a makeover with lager-battering, parsnips, crab and fennel; there is pork schnitzel with spaetzle, and a dreamy cassoulet with heirloom beans and truffles, paired with Woodfour’s Imperial Black Ale or lighter Berliner Weisse.

Common in Europe, gastropubs typically serve high-quality food alongside high-quality beer. Some local establishments, including Woodfour and stalwart Dempsey’s in Petaluma, brew their own beers. Barley and Hops Tavern in Occidental offers an eclectic menu of draft and bottled beers from top producers to complement its California halibut with fingerling potatoes, and Niman Ranch beef burger with mango salsa and brie.

Gastropubs likely won’t satisfy those seeking the simplicity of a pitcher of Bud Light and a bucket of Buffalo wings, but, thankfully, they’re here for the rest of us.

GASTROPUB HEAVEN

Barley and Hops Tavern
3688 Bohemian Highway, Occidental
707-874-9037, barleyandhops.happytables.com

Bear Republic Brewing Co.
345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg
707-433-2337, bearrepublic.com

Belly: Left Coast Kitchen & Taproom
523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa
707-526-5787, belly707.com

Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery
50 E. Washington St., Petaluma
707-765-9694, dempseys.com

Heritage Public House
901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa
707-540-0395, heritagepublichousesr.com

Hopmonk Tavern
230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol
707-829-7300;
691 Broadway, Sonoma
707-935-9100, hopmonk.com

Pub Republic
3120 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma
707-782-9090, pubrepublicusa.com

Russian River Brewing Co.
725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa
707-545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com

Third Street Aleworks
610 Third St., Santa Rosa
707-523-3060, thirdstreetaleworks.com

Woodfour Brewing Co.
6780 Depot St., Sebastopol
707-823-3144, woodfourbrewing.com

A Great Crop of Good Times

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Sonoma Plein Air Gala takes place Sept. 19-20 all over Sonoma Valley. Here, Laura Roney of Santa Rosa paints the vineyards at the Annadel Winery near Oakmont. (photo by John Burgess)

As the weather cools and the leaves change color, here are a few things to do to bring the new season in.

The National Heirloom Exposition at the Sonoma Fairgrounds. (photo by John Burgess)

September 9-11
National Heirloom Exposition: More than 18,000 people showed up in 2013 for this celebration of pure food and heirloom vegetables. This year, the event includes 100 speakers and 300 natural-food vendors, sure to delight farmers, home growers, foodies and anyone who takes eating seriously. $10 for one day, $25 for all three; free for children under 17.
Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds, 175 Fairgrounds Drive, Petaluma, theheirloomexpo.com

September 13
Ben Harper: Green Music Center’s Weill Hall has established itself as a world-class venue for classical music, but it’s also a great spot for this singer-songwriter’s special blend of blues, folk, soul, reggae and rock. The back wall of the hall will be opened up so that the crowd can spill out onto the lawn and listen to Harper — fresh from his Grammy Award for Best Blues Album (with local Charlie Musselwhite) — perform an acoustic show at 7:30 p.m. $12.50 to $88.
Green Music Center, Sonoma State University, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu

September 17-21
Wine Country Film Festival: Sonoma County’s 28th annual celebration of cinema, also known as the Santa Rosa International Film Festival, showcases films from around the world, screened at various locations throughout the region. $25 weekday pass; $45 weekend day pass; $100 festival pass. Check the website for the screening schedule.
wcff.us

September 19-20
Sonoma Plein Air Gala: Sonoma’s celebration of outdoor painting informally begins Sept. 15, with artists at work at locations all over Sonoma Valley, and builds to a gala dinner and silent auction Sept. 19 at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa. The festival concludes Sept. 20 with the week’s artwork on display from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on the Sonoma Plaza.
sonomapleinair.com

Melissa Etheridge is one of the headliners at this year's B.R. Cohn Fall Music Festival. (photo: melissaetheridge.com) — Melissa Etheridge is one of the headliners at this year’s B.R. Cohn Fall Music Festival. (photo: melissaetheridge.com)

September 19-22
B.R. Cohn Charity Fall Music Festival: One of Sonoma Valley’s most popular annual events opens Sept. 19 with a gala charity auction dinner ($175) prepared by chef Mark Stark. Two days of live music follow with Peter Frampton, Melissa Etheridge, Huey Lewis and The News, the Wallflowers, Los Lonely Boys and more set to perform. The B.R. Cohn Celebrity Golf Classic follows the festival on Sept. 22. Festival admission is $79; a two-day pass is $129; VIP tickets are $300-$1,000. Greens fees at Sonoma Golf Club: $275.
B. R. Cohn Winery, 15000 Highway 12, Glen Ellen, 855-235-2867, brcohnfallfestival.org

September 20
St. Regis Polo Cup: Polo enthusiasts can get their fix at the St. Regis Polo Cup match at Wild Oak Saddle Club in Santa Rosa. Benefitting the nonprofit Giant Steps Therapeutic Equestrian Center in Petaluma, the noon to 4 p.m. match includes food and drink, with chef Olivier Belliard of the St. Regis Hotel San Francisco creating culinary treats, and Hamel Family Wines of Sonoma providing the wine tasting. St. Regis’ signature Bloody Mary cocktail will also be in the mix. $350 per person.
Wild Oak Saddle Club, 550 White Oak Drive, Santa Rosa, stregissanfrancisco.com/polo-cup

September 20-21
Wings Over Wine Country: The Pacific Coast Air Museum hosts this two-day air show featuring vintage planes, war birds, aerobatics and more, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. both days. This perennial crowd-pleaser draws 20,000 people each year. $18 in advance, $20 at the gate for adults; seniors and child discounts available, as well as VIP packages.
Charles M. Schulz-Sonoma County Airport, 200 Airport Blvd., Santa Rosa, 707-566-8380, wingsoverwinecountry.org

September 21-22
Russian River Jazz and Blues Festival: Gary Clark Jr., Boney James, Ana Popovic, Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue, and Roy Rogers and the Delta Rhythm Kings are among the acts lined up for this two-day blowout on the Russian River, with jazz on the first day and blues on the second. $50 per day; $80 for a two-day pass. Camping is available for those who don’t want to miss a note.
Johnson’s Beach, 16241 First St., Guerneville, 949-360-7800, russianriverfestivals.com

September 23
Diana Ross: The pop and soul diva, winner of the Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award, brings her signature vocal style and wardrobe to Weill Hall at Green Music Center and its spacious back lawn at 7:30 p.m. Ticket prices run from $12.50 to $225.00. Food and drink are available.
Green Music Center, Sonoma State University, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu

September 26-28
Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival: It’s up there with the Tournament of Roses parade in Pasadena as the two longest-running festivals in California. Since 1897, Sonoma Valley has staged the Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival, which began as a celebration of the wine grape harvest and has grown into so much more. Held on and around the Sonoma Plaza, the event offers plenty of wine to taste, of course, and also a beer garden, food vendors, music, kids’ fun zone, arts and crafts, grape stomp and a parade. See the website for the many options and ticket prices.
707-996-2109, valleyofthemoonvintagefestival.com

September 27
Kendall-Jackson Heirloom Tomato Festival: The 18th annual event celebrates the delicious flavors of more than 175 heritage varieties of tomatoes grown in Kendall-Jackson Winery’s estate culinary gardens. Taste though them all, enjoy tomato-based bites prepared by local chefs and caterers, and pair them with K-J wines. Music, garden tours, wine and gardening seminars and a Chef’s Challenge competition are also part of the day. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. $95; VIP all-access $150.
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens, 5007 Fulton Road, Fulton, 707-433-6000, kj.com

September 28
Sonoma County Harvest Fair Awards Dinner: The annual Harvest Fair itself runs Oct. 3-5 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, but it’s preceded by one of the region’s most prestigious events, a gala dinner announcing the fair’s awards for the best in Sonoma food and wine. The doors open at 4:30 p.m. for a reception with appetizers; the awards ceremony starts at 5:30 p.m. and the dinner is at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $100 per person.
Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-4200, harvestfair.org

September 28
Michael Feinstein, The Sinatra Project: It’s all about the black ties and blue eyes. When Sonoma State University’s Green Music Center opens its 2014-15 Mastercard Performance Series with singer Michael Feinstein at Weill Hall, the entertainer will tip his fedora to legendary crooner Frank Sinatra. Donors can enjoy a gala cocktail party, dinner and dancing after the 3 p.m. concert. Ticket prices start at $65.
Green Music Center, Sonoma State University, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

October 4-5
Historic Car Racing: Some of the most gorgeous cars of yore grace the Sonoma Raceway track, showing they may be old but haven’t lost their charisma or speed. Those with a taste for automotive eye candy can watch classic Maseratis, Ferraris and Porsches take their turns around the track, joined by an array of Formula, Trans-Am and special cars from the golden era of U.S. sports and production racing cars. Tickets are $25 at the gate, $40 for a two-day pass.
Sonoma Raceway, 29355 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-938-8448, racesonoma.com

October 11
Sonoma Bar Battle: Sonoma Valley’s best bartenders go head to head in an “Iron Chef”-inspired competition of cocktail concocting. Attendees can sample food and cocktails from the participants while enjoying live music and a silent auction. The event, which begins at 6 p.m., is hosted by and benefits Native Sons of the Golden West Parlor No. 111 and American Legion Post No. 489. $35 in advance, $40 at the door, with tickets available at Steiner’s Tavern, Eraldi’s Menswear & Shoes and the Town Square.
Sonoma Veterans Building, 126 First St. West, Sonoma, 707- 337-1402, sonomabarbattle.com

October 11-12, 18-19
Sonoma County Art Trails: The Sebastopol Center for the Arts has revived this longtime event for art lovers who appreciate getting closer to the source. More than 160 artists in all corners of the county, from painters to printmakers, and jewelers to sculptors, welcome visitors to drop by their studios to learn about their creative processes. The website has a catalog to chart your course.
707-829-4797, sonomacountyarttrails.org

October 24
Joshua Bell and Alessio Bax: Violinist Joshua Bell won fans for his contributions to the soundtrack of the 1998 film, “The Red Violin.” Experience his artistry in person as Bell is accompanied by pianist Alessio Bax in this recital at the Wells Fargo Center for the Arts. The 8 p.m. concert is a fundraiser for the Santa Rosa Symphony. Tickets are $50 to $200; those paying $500 get an invitation to a cocktail reception, dinner in the Carston Cabaret, and the opportunity to meet the musicians.
Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-8742, santarosasymphony.com

October 26
Pinot on the River: Love Pinot Noir? Get ready for a full day of tasting, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., on the charming downtown Healdsburg Plaza, with more than 100 wineries and a wide array of artisan food vendors. Ticket prices range from $75 to $150.
800-678-4763, pinotfestival.com

Breaking Away From the Pack

September 2014

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Levi Leipheimer and his GranFondo. (photos by Kent Porter)

It looks a bit like organized chaos as riders prepare for Levi’s GranFondo in Santa Rosa.

Climbing long, steep roads and barreling down exhilarating descents, a sea of cyclists will wash over western Sonoma on Oct. 4, riding in Levi’s GranFondo, an event that underscores the area’s exploding cycling scene.

The GranFondo (“big race” in Italian), celebrating its sixth year, draws 7,500 riders from all over the world for what has become one of the premier cycling events in the U.S. The brainchild of Santa Rosa’s Levi Leipheimer, a decorated former pro cyclist who was among the world’s elite, the event is a spectacle that draws both professionals and amateurs who ride side by side on the traffic-controlled course, hailed as one of the most beautiful and challenging in the country.

Just don’t call it a race.

Sure, riders are timed. And yes, all participants are launched in a mass start at Santa Rosa’s Finley Center, giving everyone a seriously peloton-like experience for the first 20 miles. But there are no prizes for crossing the line first; the reward is in the doing, fundraising for mostly local charities (nearly $1.2 million since 2009) and a great after-party.

GranFondo has three routes: the family-friendly, 30-mile Piccolo; 60-mile Medio; and the big daddy, the 103-mile Gran route. The Gran, with its 9,000 feet of climbing, is a lung- and leg-scorching roller coaster covering some of Sonoma’s most remote and gorgeous roads. Four thousand riders on this route are expected to emerge from the redwoods of Cazadero, climb King Ridge Road, and make their way to Highway 1 and the ocean, before one last climb up Coleman Valley Road and their return to the Finley Center.

There, an all-day festival greets GranFondo riders and any other interested revelers, with restorative carbs (beer), locally grown grub, live music and activities for kids. There is no admission charge for the festival.

A spot in the Gran ride costs $160, the Medio $140 and the Piccolo $80. The ride sells out every year, so sign up soon.

(707) 560-1122, levisgranfondo.com