East Wind Bakery in Santa Rosa features bao, kimchee-stuffed croissants and milk bread made daily. Photo: Heather Irwin
Milk bread, where have you been all my life? Found primarily in Asian bakeries, this Japanese style of bread (also called Hokkaido) makes a supple, sweet, heavenly loaf with nary a sprout or seed or whole grain in sight. Perfect for toast, sandwiches or simply nibbling from the bag, fresh loaves are baked daily at the recently-opened pan-Asian Bakery, East Wind (3851 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa) flecked with bits of Earl Grey tea, herbs or cinnamon (as well as plain) for about $5 each.
But that’s just the start of your inevitable caloric overload.
The owners of East Wind Bakery
This beautiful little bakery owned by partners Doug Quick and Tony Tam also features homemade bbq pork curried beef, red bean and taro bao (baked); kimchee and Chinese sausage-stuffed croissants (along with bacon chocolate and plain); Chinese sponge cake, garam-masala-spiced sweet buns, Massaman beef and Thai chicken pot pies, pork banh mi and, well, you get the idea.
Milk Bread from East Wind Bakery studded with Earl Grey tea. Photo: Heather Irwin.
Go with a sense of adventure and a hungry belly, and don’t miss out on the Sea Foam coffee (made with a sweet-salty whipped cream, Asian spices, and coffee) or boba tea. I’d be remiss to leave out that they’ve also got plenty of Western sweets (cupcakes, lemon tarts, etc) that are equally delicious, though less exotic.
East Wind Bakery in Santa Rosa
East Wind Bakery, 3851 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, Hours: Tue-Fri 8am-4pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 9am-3pm; 707-568-6081.
Fork Roadhouse opens in Sebastopol featuring breakfast and lunch
Fork Roadhouse is a honey little noshery on the way to Bodega Bay that’s worth a side-trip or stop on the way to Bodega Bay. A hidden local gem for breakfast, brunch and lunch, chef/owner Sarah Piccolo knows how to make incredible, comforting dishes that showcase the region’s best purveyors.
We’ve been a fan of Sarah’s roaming food truck for years but her meandering roadhouse has plenty of nooks and crannies to spread out with your polenta bowl filled with goat cheese, kale and a poached egg, pork belly taco or grass-fed burger with tomato jam.
Fork Roadhouse opens in Sebastopol featuring breakfast and lunch
The menu includes a number of vegetarian options, and everything is made with local, seasonal ingredients…and a whole lot of love. Best bet: Orange and ginger stewed prune with greek yogurt, honey, granola and bee pollen with roadhouse potatoes.
The back patio with creekside dining and a toasty fire pit is perfect for wiggly kids or warmer-weather dining.
Fork Roadhouse: 9890 Bodega Hwy, Sebastopol. Breakfast and Lunch Wednesday-Monday 9am to 2pm, Dinners Wednesday-Monday (except Sundays) 5:30pm to 8:30pm. Closed Tuesday.
Ad Lib Atlantic Salmon, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Ad Lib Kumamoto Oysters, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Word broke Monday that Thomas Keller is opening Ad Lib, a pop-up restaurant at the Silverado Resort through early March while the French Laundry undergoes a renovation. The restaurant will operate out of the resort’s Royal Oak Room beginning January 21 through March 2 from 5-9p.m. Thursday through Monday.
Ad Lib Chop Salad, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
According to the website, the menu consists of “traditional, honest food” with a hearty selection of daily specials influenced by The French Laundry Culinary Garden. The a la carte menu, with entrees ranging from about $28-$55 each, will include a Classic Caesar Salad and Steak Tartare, both prepared table-side, Fruitwood Smoked Kielbasa, Black Angus Chop Steak, Root Vegetable Pot Pie, Braised Beef Short Rib “Wellington,” Broiled Alaskan King Crab Legs and a Seven-Layer Coconut Cake. Guests can also expect a hearty selection of daily specials influenced by The French Laundry Culinary Garden.
Ad Lib Ribeye, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
This is a collaborative effort from TKRG Chef de Cuisine Devin Knell, The French Laundry’s Chef de Cuisine David Breeden and Sous Chef Michael Wallace, who has been appointed the Chef de Cuisine of the pop-up.
Ad Lib Kielbasa, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
But here’s the rub. Unless you’ve got at least four people, you’re out of luck (and even then, you’ll have to call soon). Tables for two have already been snapped up for the duration of the pop-up. Details and more info online at thomaskeller.com/ad-lib
Ad Lib Parker House Rolls, one of the menu items from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and Silverado Resort in Napa. Photo: Meg Smith.
Hudson Valley Foie Gras at the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco. Photo Heather Irwin
Chef Doug Richey, copyright Heather Irwin, BiteClubEats.com
Foie gras has returned to California restaurants after a surprise ruling on last Wednesday overturning the 2012 ban against its sale.At least in theory.
In the 24 hours since a federal judge nixed the 2004 state statute banning the production and sale of the fatty duck liver, many Bay Area chefs have been scrambling to put foie back on their menus and finding it almost impossible to procure.
“I’m going to try to get it on my menu as soon as I can, but we probably won’t be able to get it until next week,” said Brian Anderson, owner of Santa Rosa’s Bistro 29. Like others in the restaurant industry, he was taken by surprise when news of the ruling went viral on the Internet. “My wife texted me. I had no idea,” he said.
“No one knew this was coming down,” said Doug Keane, the former Cyrus chef and foie gras proponent. During a briefing to other chefs trying to understand the impact of the ruling on Wednesday, Keane said he offered up the three lobes he had tucked away in his freezer.
For others, however, its still a mad rush to get their foie. “I’ve called everywhere, and we’re having a really hard time getting it,” said Daniel Kedan of Forestville’s Backyard Restaurant. He’s phoned a number of former Bay Area suppliers and even down to LA to see if anything is available. “It will make an appearance on our menu,” he said, “eventually.”
Keane, and Chef Ken Frank of La Toque in Napa (a foie gras proponent who hosted a 10-course all foie luncheon last July) acknowledge that for hard-core fans, foie never really went away. It just went underground.
At a recent dinner at Healdsburg’s Michelin-starred Madrona Manor, Chef Jesse Mallgren offered up a “gift from the chef” on the tasting menu — code for foie gras. Because only the sale of the delicacy was prohibited, some rogue chefs simply offered the supply they had as “gifts” for special customers. “We never took it off the menu,” said Mallgren, “I gave a lot of ‘gifts’ the last two years.”
Chef Miriam Donaldson of Wishbone in Petaluma said she’s also served it up as a “special” from time to time, procuring it from, well, that’s something most chefs have kept under their toques.
Part of the problem is that there are only three American producers of foie gras. Sonoma Foie Gras, which has relocated outside the state, was at the heart of the California debate about the practice of force feeding ducks to create the enlarged livers so prized by diners. Animal rights activists contend that the practice of force feeding ducks is torture, while chefs like Keane and Frank, who toured the farm and know co-owner Junny and Giullermo Gonzalez argued that the practice was not harmful to the animals. Activists and state attorneys are considering appeals.
The debate, which has been contentious, will no doubt continue. But for now, foie will return to California and Wine Country menus while activists and state attorneys consider their appeals.
Other restaurants planning to put foie back on the menu:
Terri Stark of Willi’s Wine Bar hoped to have their once-popular foie gras “poppers” make a return as soon as this weekend, but has revised that until next week as they get the ingredient in stock.
Steve Litke of the Farmhouse Inn: “Of course wer’re putting it on the menu. A lot of our customers really miss it.”
Shane McAnelly, Chalkboard: The Healdsburg chef plans to put it on the menu next week.
Dustin Valette, the forthcoming Valette: The former Dry Creek Kitchen chef plans to offer some of his personal stash to a small group of diners this weekend.
Thistle Meats in Petaluma has incorporated duck livers into its pate and terrine since opening last year, using livers of non-force fed ducks (foie) rather than foie gras (fatty duck liver). She said her staff of butchers are excited to bring foie gras to customers in their terrines. But you probably won’t see them in the meat case unless there is a demand for the lobes.
January is the perfect time to catch sight of migrating gray whales traveling south for the winter. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
JANUARY: Whale Watching
A gray whale breaching is a wondrous sight, soaring up out of the water and crashing back into the ocean with its full weight of 30 to 40 tons, causing a thunderous splash. In January, migrating gray whales headed south from their summer feeding grounds in the frigid waters near Alaska pass along the California coast en route to the subtropical lagoons and bays of Baja California. On weekends, whale fans gather at Bodega Head for a glimpse of the majestic sea mammals. In Baja, the whales mate and nurse their young. By April, pairs of cows and calves can be seen headed north again.
Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods, 707-869-9177, stewardsofthecoastandredwoods.org
A classic Gin Martini. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
JANUARY 9: Martini Madness
Ten local restaurants compete for the title of best olive-inspired martini, from 5 to 7 p.m. at MacArthur Place. The $40 admission includes appetizers and martini tasting. The $85 dinner package includes a three-course meal at Saddles Steakhouse. MacArthur Place, 28 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma, 707-938-2929, macarthurplace.com
JANUARY 17-18: Winter WINEland
The 23rd annual event offers so many choices, you could easily stay busy for two full days. More than 140 wineries throughout the Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys offer tastings of limited-production wines, new releases, library wines and a chance to meet winemakers. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Prices at the door range from $45 for a one-day ticket to $60 for a weekend ticket.
707-433-4335, wineroad.com
JANUARY 24: Yo-Yo Ma
The world-famous cellist plays an all-Bach program in Green Music Center’s acoustically outstanding Weill Hall at 7:30 p.m. Not surprisingly, the show sold out fast, but there are always possibilities on the Internet of finding a ticket-holder who’s had a change of plans. Weill Hall, Green Music Center on the Sonoma State University campus, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu
JANUARY 25: Feast of the Olive Dinner
The Sonoma olive season runs throughout January and February, and one of the high points every year is this gathering of the best local chefs, winemakers and olive-oil producers to prepare a unique feast at the Ramekins Culinary School. It’s an elegant affair, with 19 chefs, five courses and three menus. 6-10 p.m. $150. 450 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-996-1090, olivefestival.com
FEBRUARY 7-8: International Alsace Varietals Festival
Roam the hills of beautiful Anderson Valley and taste wines from around the globe. Wineries from France, Germany, New Zealand and across the U.S. will pour samples alongside local wineries. Enjoy food pairings, local cheeses, Tomales Bay oysters, Alsatian-style treats and more. A grand tasting runs from 1 to 4 p.m. Feb. 7 ($200). Other events include a winemaker dinner at Scharffenberger Cellars. Visit winery open houses across the valley Feb. 8. 707-895-9463, avwines.com
Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest. (photo by Alvin Jornada)
FEBRUARY 7: Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest
A seasonal feast with a heartfelt mission, the 26th annual fundraiser for agricultural and business scholarships, education programs and youth activities is a chance to mingle with more than 1,000 local folks. It’s also a Dungeness lover’s repast to remember. The reception and silent auction start at 5 p.m. in Grace Pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The crab feed and live auction follow at 6:30 p.m. $75. Sonoma County Fairgrounds, 1350 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-544-5575, sonomafb.org
FEBRUARY 13-15: Cloverdale Citrus Fair
Capture the flavor of Cloverdale’s agricultural history, with featured exhibits made of oranges and other citrus, plus live entertainment, rides, food and a parade. And don’t overlook the Citrus Fair Queen contest, a hometown tradition since 1924. $5-$7. Cloverdale Citrus Fairgrounds, 1 Citrus Fair Drive, 707-894-3992, cloverdalecitrusfair.org
FEBRUARY 14: A Glorious Mixer
For Valentine’s Day, take your honey or BFFs to Gloria Ferrer winery in Sonoma for its Glorious Mixer, a casual affair serving up yummy bites, sparkling-wine cocktails and plenty of straight-up bubbly from 6:30 to 9 p.m. You might even find your long-awaited soul mate by the chocolate fondue fountain. Tickets are $55 ($47 for wine club members) and limited. Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, 23555 Highway 121/Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-933-1917, gloriaferrer.com/wine-country-events
A pair of giraffes interact at Safari West in Santa Rosa. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
FEBRUARY 14: Wild Jungle Love
Maintain a Valentine’s Day frame of mind with a special “Safari Sex Tour” at the Safari West wild animal preserve. Witness ardor among the wildebeests and romance among the water buffalo. Adults only. The package includes the “Wild Love Bites” lunch at noon and a reception featuring chocolate paired with African wine and beer at 1 p.m. The tour starts at 2 p.m. $135; $95 for the tour only; $40 for brunch and reception only. Reservations required. Safari West, 3115 Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa, 707-579-2551, safariwest.com
FEBRUARY 15: “Café Music”
Enjoy the intimate atmosphere of the Green Music Center’s 250-seat Schroeder Hall with pianist John Novacek, who has performed with famed violinist Joshua Bell and master cellist Yo-Yo Ma. He’ll team with lesser-known but highly respected violinist Laura Frautschi and cellist Ellen Moon at 3 p.m. $25. Schroeder Hall, Green Music Center on the Sonoma State University campus, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu
FEBRUARY 25: Jazz on the Menu
Credit the Healdsburg Jazz Festival for coming up with a winter event that supports music education and is also a lot of fun. Fans of fine dining are offered a choice of several top restaurants in Healdsburg and Geyserville, each donating a portion of the evening’s receipts to school music programs. Each restaurant will feature live jazz from 6 to 9 p.m. The after-party is 7:30-10:30 p.m. at Costeaux French Bakery. Party admission is $15. 707-433-4633, healdsburgjazzfestival.org
Pliny the Younger comes back to Russian River Brewing Company in downtown Santa Rosa on Feb. 6, 2015. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
Hop heads, mark your calendars.
Feb. 6 is the day Pliny the Younger, one of the most sought-after beers in the world, will be released at Russian River Brewing’s taproom in downtown Santa Rosa. The wait in line on that Friday will be long, as much as eight to 10 hours, and it will continue for two weeks, until the casks of “Younger” go dry.
Customers wait in line for hours along Fourth Street in downtown Santa Rosa for the 2014 release of Pliny the Younger at Russian River Brewing Company. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Younger, a triple India Pale Ale that the Beer Advocate website ranked No. 1 in the U.S. in 2010, is produced just once a year and in extremely small quantities: only on draft, never in bottle. A few pubs outside of Santa Rosa serve Younger, but the vast volume of the high-alcohol, scintillatingly hoppy yet ultra-smooth beer is sold at Russian River Brewing. Outlasting the long lines is a badge of honor; scoring a 10-ounce glass is a bucket-list check-off.
Sebastian Hernandez of Rancho Cucamonga photographs a glass of Pliny the Younger at The Russian River Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa, Friday Feb. 7, 2014. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
Russian River brewmaster Vinnie Cilurzo and his co-proprietor wife, Natalie, will serve Pliny the Younger to some 15,000 customers in its 14-day run at their Fourth Street pub. Doors open at 11 a.m. each day. And there are rules. No open containers in line. No smoking within 20 feet of business entrances or where people gather. No blocking access to other businesses. And above all else: no taking cuts.
If you miss out on Younger, take comfort in knowing that its sibling, the double IPA Pliny the Elder, is served year-round, though with a little less cachet.
Writers as diverse as William Shakespeare (“that which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet”) and Gertrude Stein (“a rose is a rose is a rose”) have waxed poetic on the flower that is a classic for Valentine’s Day giving.
Nick Neve hauls a bucket of roses to his truck for delivery in Marin County from Neve Brothers, the family’s rose nursery in Petaluma, as they prepare for the Valentines Day rose-buying frenzy. (Photo by Mark Aronoff, file 2011)
But roses are not the same as they were way back when, or even a decade ago. Many of the jumbo-headed oddities in markets are imported from Colombia or Ecuador, bred for size or an absence of thorns, and have lost their intoxicating fragrance. For roses that look and smell like roses, thorns and all, try Neve Brothers in Petaluma.
Yet there are dozens of floral options for Valentine’s and other special days. The Victorians were big on the meaning of each type of flower, creating a language called florography. Handing your sweetheart sweet peas in those days meant “blissful pleasure.” Violets said, “Let’s take a chance on happiness,” and tulips purred “perfect lover.” While familiarity with these meanings may have been lost over time, they can be a guide to creative flower selection.
Color can also be helpful: Yellow signifies friendship, coral implies desire, purple suggests enchantment and pink signals joy.
There are simple ways to preserve the color and aroma of cut flowers once they’ve been delivered.
A teaspoon of gin in the water increases the lifespan of tulips. Many flowers (roses, peonies, sunflowers, zinnias and hyacinths) prefer hot water rather than cold for their initial plunge.
For all flowers, cut the stems a quarter-inch every other day and change the water frequently, ensuring that the Valentine’s Day sentiment lives on for a week or more.
Malisa Bruno turns a cartwheel while frolicking in a field of mustard at the Brown Farm, in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, March 19, 2014. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
A winter walk through the vineyards offers endless, wide-open vantages like no other time of year. Instead of being corralled in maze-like, leafy, summer rows, in the dead of January you can see for miles through barren skeletal plots of gnarled wet vines framed by naked wires.
Of course, you’ll need to gear up for the occasion. Waterproof boots and rain jackets come in handy, but it’s all worth the effort.
For the hearty, wintry soul, the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission has lined up eight wineries that offer free self-guided walking tours through the vineyards.
Stryker Sonoma (Alexander Valley) and Landmark Vineyards (Sonoma Valley) are two of the easiest jaunts, with flat and lazy quarter-mile loops. The most jaw-dropping is Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa, thanks to a world-class sculpture garden and countless vistas.
The vineyards of Michel Schlumberger and Francis Ford Coppola Winery, in the Dry Creek and Alexander valleys, respectively, boast the most “challenging” hikes, with elevated romps through surrounding hills. And even though it’s winter, you can channel the boys of summer with a run around the diamond at the “Field of Dreams” baseball field in the middle of Balletto Vineyards in Russian River Valley.
Depending on the year (and the unpredictable indignities of a drought season), at some point in February electric-yellow mustard arrives in a flash, like an overnight painter splashed through vineyard rows, leaving behind flurries of waist-high saffron color to wade through.
Just keep in mind: Selfies can be a challenge when your kids are swallowed whole by 4-foot mustard blooms. Don’t wear yellow.
When the rainfall is right, February brings astonishing blooms of mustard to Wine Country that are sure to inspire a hiker’s childlike sense of joy.
Roast chicken from Pullman Kitchen in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin)
Roast chicken from Pullman Kitchen in Santa Rosa. Photo: Heather Irwin
After a bit of a lull in restaurant openings over the last several years, 2014 was a banner year for restaurateurs, both old and new. New to the table were several chef-owned restaurants, signaling an uptick in the economy, as well as flashier restaurants housed inside the Graton Casino and Resort. Cuisine focused on local products has become almost de rigeur, with local meats becoming even more of a player. Ethnic flavors are becoming increasingly mainstream as the world gets smaller and palates expand. Also this year: A number of pop-ups and food trucks have found brick-and-mortar spots to compliment, rather than eliminate, their mobile kitchens.
What we’ve seen less of? Traditional European menus have gone the way of the dinosaur. Instead, we’re seeing more “fusion” menus that include traditional sauces and preparations with newer flavors. Southeast Asian restaurants are eschewing their Americanized versions of dishes and lesser-known cuisines like Korean, authentic Japanese (ramen, donburri) and Vietnamese taking the forefront.
We’re also excited to see unexpected types of meat on many menus, including lots of locally-raised rabbit and goat along with serious offal (not just the gross-out stuff we saw several years ago) including tongue, heart, myriad sausages, kidney, liver and tripe on many menus, along with plenty of bone marrow and natural gelatins.
The good news in all of this is that local palates are broadening, and restaurant patrons are embracing the creativity of chefs. And though prices have risen considerably, we’re also beginning to get used to the idea that locally-produced, sustainable food comes at a price. But oh, what flavor.
Here are a few of our favorite restaurant openings of 2014.
Pullman Kitchen
One of my favorite openings of the year has to be this Railroad Square charmer. It’s hard to nail down why I’ve been so smitten, but the combination of comfort and luxury just work. Chef Darren McRonald has perfected the roast chicken with crispy skin and juicy, tender meat (both light and dark), serving up the bird with a light pan sauce and two dreamy spinach Parmesan pancakes. It’s everything a roast chicken should be, which is comforting and hearty, homey and succulent. Housed in the former Syrah Bistro. The interior is familiar, with an open kitchen and cozy dining room, but the space now has better seating and a more open feel. The interior courtyard, always a bit exposed, noisy, and uncomfortable, has been sectioned off, giving it a more unified feeling. The rest of the menu is brief and fairly consistent (though seasonal ingredients come and go) with plenty of rib-sticking entrées including fish tacos, cheeseburgers, skirt steak, lamb, and Manila clams with chorizo. What’s we’ve been inspired by, however, are the daily specials, such as a crab cake po’boy and fried green tomatoes. And don’t miss the bacon-wrapped dates with paprika, honey, and lemon. Dessert is just as inspired and just as comforting. Rich carrot cake with cream cheese frosting (notice the golden raisins, a nice touch), warm rhubarb and strawberry crumbles with whipped cream, or so-worth-it house made ice cream. What seemed a stumbling block, adding a 17 percent tip to the bill, has been eliminated. Though the idea is noble (and will hopefully catch on), Sonoma County just wasn’t ready. Open Mon-Fri lunch, nightly dinner, and Sat-Sun brunch. 205 5th St. at Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-4300.
MY Noodle Bar, Tony’s of North Beach
There was plenty of gastro-hubbub when the Graton Resort and Casino opened last winter. The lineup included five sit-down restaurants and an impressive food court of which former Cyrus chef Douglas Keane was a part. Within a few months, Keane was out and the restaurants started looking a bit, well, quiet. It’s too bad, because I’m a huge fan of Chef Martin Yan’s MY Noodle Bar and Chef Tony Gemignani’s signature restaurant. MY China transformed recently to MY Noodle Bar, with an abbreviated, but easier to follow menu. Dim sum is always solid, and its one of the few places in the North Bay for really authentic Chinese dishes. I’m also a huge fan of Tony’s of North Beach, which on my most recent visit was nearly empty. I had one of the best burgers of my life, and the restaurant is offering a number of family-friendly, budget-friendly options to bring people in. After several informal surveys of local foodies, the number one reason for not going: The cigarette smoke from the casino. Personally, I haven’t found it that offensive (there are state-of-the-art air filters and Tony’s has an exterior entrance), but it’s definitely keeping many non-gamblers away.
Oso Sonoma
So what do you do when Open Table gives your “restaurant” (in reality, a winery tasting experience) the best in the world? You quit and open your own restaurant. Located on the Sonoma Square, Bush’s rustic-modern space is both walk-in lounge/bar and evolved reservation-only tasting experience. At the bar, you can get nibbles like pickled shrimp with paenut slaw, charred tuna with gai lan (a sort of Chinese brocooli) or beef tartar with quail egg (all under $20). The tasting menu changes with the day, but is always fresh from the garden and pasture. All from a guy who’s most often found in a camouflage trucker and humble whites of a line cook. 9 East Napa St., Sonoma
Native Kitchen and Kombucha Bar
On the other end of the spectrum is one of the most healthful dining experiences I’ve had in recent memory (and enjoyed). I’ve never been much of a fan of plant-based menus, but this Petaluma restaurant proved the exception. “I like to think of it as nutritious by accident,” says Chef Jasmine Dravis. Focused on food prepared with a “healing intent”—with gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options as the core of her menu—Dravis doesn’t trade flavor for philosophy, or eschew meat on the menu. Instead, her offerings are a simple mix of seasonal fruits, veggies, grains and meats in a variety of guises. Favorites included jalapeño cornbread, the Sonoma Cheese Board, and sweet corn cakes. Don’t miss the kombucha cocktails that make drinking healthy fun. 110 Petaluma Blvd North, Petaluma, 599-3750, open 10a.m. to 10p.m. daily.
Ramen Gaijin
Pop-ups can sometimes be a bit, well, ephemeral. This one, however, has found a home in Sebastopol, and we couldn’t be happier. Focused on authentic Japanese ingredients and preparations, Chefs Moishe Hahn-Schuman and Matthew Williams quietly started a every-other-week slurp-n-burp shindig featuring incredible bowls of handmade ramen with pork belly, bonito flakes, mushrooms, and lightly poached eggs. To boot, the curated menu also includes karaage (Japanese fried chicken) or donburi, an Asian-inspired salad and sorbet with yuzu curd. The Monday night feast sold out again, and again. This January, they’re popping up several days a week for lunch and dinner at the former Forchetta, and will expand their menu to include even more surprises. 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol.
Vignette
There are only a handful of meals that I can describe as life-changing—so perfectly executed at exactly the right moment in time that they forever stand out in memory as best-in-class. Fatty tuna belly nigiri at Hana Japanese, chocolate pot de creme at Francis Ford Coppola Winery’s Rustic, chilled pea soup with Dungeness crab at Chalkboard, beef bourguignon at Chloe’s, foie gras at Cyrus.This week, I’ve added another: Fire-roasted heirloom carrots with eggplant and buffalo mozzarella ($10) at the recently-opened Vignette. A stack of perfectly yielding, caramelized baby carrots stacked atop bits of roasted eggplant and green onion with two spoonfuls of Ramini buffalo mozzarella (not easy to find), made even more decadent with olive oil and black pepper—just one of a frequently changing line-up of daily roasted vegetables from Chef Mark Hopper (former executive chef for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group). The rest of the menu orbits around Hopper’s painstakingly-researched Neapolitan pizzas. Having traveled to some of the best pizzerias in the country, he honed both the dough and the wood-fired cooking method (very hot, very fast) that results in a chewy crust with crispy bubbles throughout. 6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol (at the Barlow).
Naked Pig
Small can be so big when you cook with love. With just a handful of tables, this breakfast/bruch/lunch spot is a keeper. At the east end of the bustling SOFA arts district in Santa Rosa,it’s a great spot to meet up for cheddar, chive and ham savory bread pudding ($12) a super-collider smash-up of flavors worthy of a Nobel prize ($12). We’re also huge fans of the green onion biscuit with honey, poached eggs, perfectly cooked bacon and tartly-dressed salad ($13).
Artisanal whisky caramel waffles ($11) are fluffy and moist with a boozy punch ($11). Lunch sandwiches are takes on lunchbox favorites like meatloaf ($13)and egg salad ($11), but with gourmet twists like Raymond bakery ciabatta, pastured eggs and homemade pickles and ketchup. Open 8a.m. to 3p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, 435 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa.
Secret Kitchen
You know a restaurant’s under-the-radar when you can’t find it, even with Google Maps. But four miles west of Petaluma, where goats scamper in fields and signs for “lost family pig” aren’t at all unusual, is The Secret Kitchen. Tucked behind an unassuming convenience store, Brenda Anderson, Janice Clement and their tiny staff of friends and neighbors are running a walk-up, take-out kitchen with dishes like Korean BBQ chicken rice bowls with kim chee, “Hog in a Blanket” (pork brat with Lagunitas IPA mustard, cheddar cheese sauce and caramelized onions), caramel rum cake and fresh peach strawberry galettes. “These are just dishes I’ve pickup up from around the world. Everything is just something I love,” says Anderson, whose Asian/Latin/American dishes harken from cooking gigs in Thailand, teaching at the Culinary Institute of America and running a restaurant at Google. Best bets include the bahn mi with slow roasted pork, pickled carrots and daikon, peanuts and secret sauce ($9); Korean BBQ tacos ($3), Koren BBQ chicken rice bowls with kimchee and pickled onions ($9), The American Hog in a Blanket ($9), Khao Soi (a Thai curried noodle bowl, $9.50) and desserts of the day. Open 11a.m. to 7:30p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, 4701 Bodega Ave., Petaluma (707) 787-8243.
Earth’s Bounty Kitchen
Longtime caterer Christopher Ludwick (Grapevine) has created a comforting lineup of his best dishes you’ve probably never had. We fell to pieces over nearly everything on the compact and well-curated menu. A charcuterie board ($13) with a changing lineup of salamis, fight-over-the-last-bite pate, pickled veggies and Cabernet mustard (ours also featured duck rillettes and head cheese); a tiny iron skillet with pork cheeks, charred tomatoes and Vella Dry Jack ($10) cooked the wood oven; the Earth’s Bounty Burger with violet mustard, Cabernet onion jam and Vella cheddar on a Village Bakery English muffin ($13); “Mac and Cheese” ($12) which is less like Kraft and more like a creamy, dreamy dish of orecchiette, mushrooms, shallots, melty cheese and buttered crumbs; chicken and waffles ($18) with rosemary-bacon waffles, country gravy and collard greens (we could eat the collard greens for weeks); and most especially the ever-changing desserts, which include a homemade “Ding Dong” (Devil’s food cake, ganache, marshmallow cream and other wickedness) or a warm fruit crumble with mascarpone. They’re also doing terrific take-out sandwiches for lunch. Earth’s Bounty Kitchen, open for dinner from 5 to 9p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, Sunday 11a.m. to 4p.m. 5755 Mountain Hawk Way, Santa Rosa, 827-9700
Sea Thai Noodle Bar
The third restaurant for Chef Tony Ounpamornchai, and my favorite. Focused on “Southeast Asian Comfort Food,” the menu is built around large bowls of noodle soups, curries, rice bowls, small bites and salads. A master of fusing Southeast Asian flavors with Wine Country ingredients, has created a more casual menu and interior, where simple wood tables make a convenient platform for sipping, slurping and sharing. Best bets (confirmed by a well-known chef and a local stylist we saw there) were the Drunken Man Noodles (flat noodles with chicken, herbs and Johnnie Walker scotch); a sumptuous lamb curry with thin slices of meat, warm spices and creamy coconut milk; a duck rice bowl with pickled ginger and perfectly cooked duck breast; handmade pot stickers with jicama and pork belly, and crab puffs with bacon aioli. There’s lots to love on the extensive wine list and dessert menu, with seasonal fruit creations like creme caramel with sweet cherries. 286 Coddingtown Center (at Coddingtown Mall), Santa Rosa.
Rosso Rosticceria
It’s a three-peat for Sonoma’s award-winning Rosso pizzeria crew. Co-owners Kevin Cronin and chef John Franchetti have created an Italian-style Rosticceria that’s part restaurant, part hang-out space. Featuring house baked pastries (from the talented Dominique of Dominique’s Sweets), breads, Roman pizzas, sliced meats, oysters, porchetta, espresso and a variety of sandwiches and appetizers. “It’s slow food fast,” said Cronin, who was inspired by the famous Peck deli in Milan and childhood memories of San Francisco’s Liguria Bakery. 1229 Dutton Ave, Santa Rosa, Monday through Friday from 9a.m. to 6p.m.
Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar
If the restaurant scene in Healdsburg has hit critical mass, it seems the dessert scene is just ramping up. The owners of the insanely relish Moustache Baked Goods opened another sweet tooth destination on the Healdsburg square featuring exotically-flavored ice creams like black sesame and coconut, cardamom, blackberry rosemary, Japanese purple yam and juniper honey. Pies change with the season, but a few faves include strawberry ginger, blueberry plum thyme, walnut maple and apple caramel pies. Noble Folk puts a twist on the traditional by using some unusual ingredients like farro, bolero and buckwheat flour (from nearby Front Porch Farm) and a “single origin pie” that is crafted entirely from Front Porch’s leaf lard, fruit and locally milled flours. 116 Matheson St., Healdsburg, (707) 529-2162. Open daily from 12pm to 9pm.
Topsy’s Kitchen
With a focus on Southern comfort food, we were ready to praise the lard and pass the biscuits. Breakfast is a well-curated mix of sweet and savory that includes beignets with jam ($5), buttermilk biscuit sandwiches with pimento cheese, buttermilk berry pancakes ($6) and healthier fare of organic quinoa with seasonal veggies ($7.50). Lunch includes their journey-worthy buttermilk fried chicken in both sandwich ($11) and chicken ‘n waffles, along with shrimp and grits ($14) and a grassfed burger ($12.50). Watch for daily specials of gumbo and brisket. Two can’t miss items: Lucy’s chicken-fried deviled eggs (yup, deviled eggs smashed back together, dipped in batter and fried, $9.50) and streusel topped caramel apple pie (drenched in salted caramel ($6) that fed two with a hearty chunk left over for a midnight snack. 131 Kentucky St., Petaluma, (773-4743).
Brasa
This Brazilian churrascaria features a mind-wobbling lineup of meat, meat and more meat, strong caipirinhas and pao de Queijo—a dreamy cheese bread. For the uninitiated, churrascaria roughly translated from Portuguese describes meat, fish or produce cooked on a skewer over a hot grill. Think steakhouse meets a hot spit. What you’re there for is the never-ending meat parade, or rodizio. For $40 (per person), you’ll get a salad, vegetable, rice, cheese bread, beans, fried plantains and yucca, and all the steak, pork loin, bacon-wrapped chicken you can eat. Leave room for one of the best desserts ever dreamed up: Chocolate and Brazilian caramel covered strawberries ($8). It’s like the best bon-bon you’ve ever eaten and worth every penny. Brasa Churrascaria and Brew pub, open Tuesday through Sunday, 5:30p.m. to 10:30p.m. for dinner (later for cocktails and lounge). 505 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa.
La Perla: It seems Santa Rosa is on a roll with Peruvian restaurants. La Perla Peruvian Cuisine has opened in the former California Thai on Seventh St. in Santa Rosa. The menu includes classics like Lomo Saltado (beef with soy sauce) is a staple, along with ceviches, steamed mussels with salsa, beef heart skewers and “Leche Asada”, a Peruvian-style creme brulee. Open daily for lunch and dinner, 522 Seventh St., Santa Rosa.
Seaside Metal: This Bar Crudo spinoff is a popular hangout for locals, and word is, their oysters are stellar. 16222 Main St., Guerneville.
Flipside Steak: We haven’t been back since a chef and menu changeup, but the crab cakes and prime rib were solid on our first visit. 138 Calistoga Road, Santa Rosa.
Palooza Gastropub & Wine Bar: Another spot that’s had a chef changeup, but grabs a crowd with a lengthy list of craft brews, local wines, burgers and hot dogs. 8910 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood.
Santa Rosa’s favorite oddball son, Robert Ripley, is enjoying a surprise resurgence of late. Last year, the page-turner biography, “A Curious Man: The Strange and Brilliant Life of Robert ‘Believe It Or Not!’ Ripley,” painted a portrait of the globe-trotting pioneer far more complex than just a freak show huckster whose name emblazons tourist-trap curiosity museums around the world.
Now PBS is rolling out the biopic, “Ripley: Believe It Or Not,” (9 p.m. Jan. 6, KQED), following the rags-to-riches rise of the “skinny, buck-toothed boy” and Santa Rosa High grad who later “mesmerized the nation with his razzle-dazzle blend of homespun Americana, colorful exotica and freakish oddities.”
Executive producer Mark Samels calls the pith-helmeted Ripley “the first true multimedia mogul of the 20th century,” who traveled the world unearthing shrunken heads, firewalkers and a man who could blow up a balloon with his eyeball.
In his prime, Ripley settled down far from his native Santa Rosa, living in a 27-room mansion on Long Island, N.Y., while raking in half a million dollars a year from his Hearst syndicated newspaper strips, books and radio and TV shows.
If you’re feeling inspired after watching Ripley’s life story, take a trip down to the Odd Fellows Lawn Cemetery in Santa Rosa, where Ripley is buried. His grave marker is a little hard to find, but look for the quirky “Ripley’s Believe It or Not” font on the headstone. If you park by the mausoleum on Franklin Street, the grave is about 50 yards south, near a large juniper bush.