A few weeks ago, I did a construction report on Brew, the new coffee and beer joint on Mendocino Ave in Santa Rosa. With a soft opening this week, BiteClub’s a little in love. Okay, a lot.
Brew Coffee and Beer opens in Santa Rosa
The former Donut Hut has been transformed into a charming, warm hangout that the neighborhood has already taken to. There’s a cozy couch, in the corner, a case full of incredible pastries, burritos and quiche from Criminal Baking Co., along with noms from Grateful Bagel and Village Bakery.
Brew Coffee and Beer opens in Santa Rosa
Pour overs from Ritual Roasters, along with espresso drinks. The taps are coming in this week, so hold tight if its a beer you’re after. Meanwhile, enjoy a little morning sunshine at my new favorite meet-up spot.
Craft Beer Appreciation Program at Sonoma State University
Craft Beer Appreciation Program at Sonoma State University
It’s not quite a degree, but Sonoma State University’s School of Extended Education is now offering a Craft Beer Appreciation Certificate Program for students.
Not quite as glib as it sounds, the program focuses on a thorough understanding of the beer industry with a focus on craft brews; the brewing process, beer “appreciation” (read tasting) and statewide business opportunities. Beer expert Jay Brooks, a co-founder of SF Beer Week, teaches the class over 12 weeks, beginning Feb. 18.
The cost of the course is $1495, details online at ssuexed.com. Must be 21 to participate.
Mark Martin, president of Marmot Mountain Ltd., at the company’s headquarters in Rohnert Park. (Photos by Conner Jay)
Snuggle deep into that down jacket against the chill of a January morning. Zip that rain gear tight up to your chin against the soaking rains of February. Now look at the label. Does it say Marmot? Then you’re wearing local.
One of the country’s most beloved makers of outdoor wear and gear is located right here in Sonoma County. Twenty-five years ago, Marmot moved from Colorado to Santa Rosa, and in 2012 relocated to two warehouse-like office buildings in Rohnert Park. The larger facility houses Marmot’s offices; the smaller one is used for manufacturing the company’s extreme-weather sleeping bags, which will keep you warm when it’s 20 degrees below zero outside.
Marmot’s Jena jacket for women.
It rarely gets that cold in Sonoma, yet Marmot president Mark Martin said this is the ideal location for an outdoor company that focuses on sustainability.
“It’s certainly a beautiful location, and it’s an incredible place in terms of attracting employees from outside the area,” Martin said. “We are committed to Sonoma County, and we think we tell a pretty good story for Sonoma County when we bring people here and showcase not only the beauty of the land but also the access to activities, whether it be Annadel or going to the coast.”
Although there are no retail sales at Marmot’s headquarters, walking in feels almost like being in an REI store. There are racks and hanging clothes: “We can showcase the products the way customers experience them and show how the products go together,” Martin said. The space is used as a showroom for vendors interested in purchasing Marmot gear, including sleeping bags, clothing, hats, gloves and shoes.
Plasma 30 sleeping bag.
Martin, 52, tall and lanky with the easy movements of an experienced hiker, said the corporate headquarters wasn’t built for Marmot, but that the construction and design fit the company to a T. The floors are concrete, exposed steel girders support the high ceilings, and the building has a rugged, industrial feel.
The product flow runs from the open-layout design department, where large boards show current trends in color and functionality, to a room with lifesize form models where two-dimensional concepts become three-dimensional garments or gear.
In autumn of 2014, the designers were already working on concepts for spring 2016, studying color palettes and lifestyle design trends. Martin said that one of the fastest-growing segment is the everyday outdoor category, a far cry from the extreme gear the company focused on when it began in 1974.
Ramble Component men’s jacket.
Evan Saunders, a sales associate who has worked at Sonoma Outfitters for seven years, said Marmot’s designs are innovative as well as durable. “They don’t just build the same thing year after year. They don’t just put out a new color for the same vest.”
Athletes seek out Marmot gear because it’s reliable in harsh conditions, such as winter in the Sierra, he said; what sets Marmot apart from its competitors is its choice of materials, such as a “power-stretch fleece,” and its unrelenting drive to keep improving its products.
“It’s their attention to detail, from how they do their thumbholes to adding fleece-lined pockets” that keep hands warm, he said. “They design with a purpose.”
Kommpressor Speed hydration pack.
Marmot products are guaranteed for life, which is in sync with Sonoma’s environmental ethic, Martin said, noting that less than a quarter of 1 percent of products ever need repair.
“There are a lot of downstream benefits from a sustainability standpoint: You’re not having to go out and buy products (repeatedly), so we reduce waste,” he said. “People want to be part of the brand that has products that continue to last over time, and if we have to replace them there is a cost exposure, so we make damn sure that those products perform.”
Most of Marmot’s manufacturing is done in Asia, but Martin said cost savings isn’t the main reason the work is done overseas. “The reason we work with our factory partners outside the United States is for quality and technical innovation.”
Boy’s Freerider Pants.
But its highest-quality sleeping bags, the ones rated at zero degrees or below, are made in Rohnert Park.
“Where you have life-threatening conditions, those are the products that we still make here,” Martin said. He noted the down the company uses is certified as not being from force-fed geese and not being live-plucked. The down comes from geese and ducks slaughtered for food.
In the Rohnert Park warehouse, a computer measures the amount of down that goes into each baffle of a sleeping bag, then workers sew up the baffles and hit the bags with whiffle bats to evenly distribute the down.
The company, part of publicly traded Jarden Corp., based in Rye, N.Y., has about $200 million in annual sales and uses some of its revenue to support community endeavors, such as Russian Riverkeeper, which works to preserve the health of the Russian River.
Martin said Marmot is poised for another stage of growth.
Jenn long-sleeved flannel shirt for women.
“We are at an inflection point with the brand becoming better-known,” he said. “We are sold in 57 countries now. We are a global brand, we have a dedicated group of core users who know and love the brand, but we are in the process of introducing Marmot … to a broader audience.”
It’s a far cry from Marmot’s early history. UC Santa Cruz students Eric Reynolds and David Huntley, avid mountain climbers, began making prototypes of down-filled winter wear and sleeping bags in their dorm room. In 1974, they founded Marmot, named for the large ground squirrel that lives at high elevations. They won a contract to make 108 puffy jackets for the Clint Eastwood movie, “The Eiger Sanction,” and were on their way.
Before relocating to Sonoma in 1989, Marmot had its own factory in Colorado, and it almost “caused the company to go out of business,” based on labor costs and quality issues, Martin said.
Jarden Corp. acquired the company in 2007, and Marmot is now “nicely profitable,” Martin said. “We’re better than where we used to be, but we’re not where we want to be yet.”
Caregiver Bentley Wan with Brad Dreyer, 26, who suffered a severe brain injury five years ago. Wan spends many moments of the day trying to reach Dreyer through touching, talking and lots of eye contact. (Photos by Erik Castro)
They nurture the sick, frail and disabled, tending not just to their physicals needs but, frequently, to their hearts. It is service work so singularly close that many who do it say they can’t help but develop deep connections with the people under their care.
In Sonoma County, caregiving is a profession that has been embraced by a tight-knit community of Fijian immigrants, who bring to the role values based on tradition, respect for elders and a Christian belief in caring for the vulnerable.
The face of a caregiver may be the last someone sees, their touch the last they feel, before taking a final breath. As intimate eyewitnesses, they have developed a unique perspective on what it means to live fully and die with grace.
Brad Dreyer’s day begins in Glen Ellen at 8:30 each morning with the arrival of Bentley Wan.
For the rest of the day, the patient man with an easy grin will be Dreyer’s eyes, ears, legs, arms, voice and mind, a surrogate for everything Brad can no longer do for himself. Wan is his nurse, physical therapist, driver, valet and best friend.
Dreyer, 26, has limited use and control of his hands and legs after suffering a traumatic brain injury five years ago when he was struck by a hit-and-run motorcyclist while riding his skateboard. It will take Wan nearly three hours to ready Dreyer for a chiropractic appointment in the early afternoon.
Wan is careful to skip no step in this meticulous and unhurried process. He will prepare the morning’s nourishment and medications, exact recipes and proportions he will deliver through a feeding tube. He will discreetly dispose of the waste from the previous night.
Wan, 47, is one of hundreds of Fijians who live in Sonoma County and are in-home caregivers to people most in need, from the severely disabled to those in hospice care and nearing death. While some come to the job after realizing how hard it is to get work in the United States, there are values in their Fijian culture that make them particularly suited to caring for others.
Wan gently massages Dreyer’s facial muscles with the hope that eventually this well-loved child from a close-knit family, a lively and helpful kid who played drums and soccer and was a pirate in his high school production of “The Pirates of Penzance,” will smile again.
“OK, buddy. Start smiling, man,” Wan cajoles. “I could give you a million reasons to smile even though you’re in this situation.”
Wan will do anything it might take to provoke those muscles to express happiness — dancing, making a funny face, telling jokes. The smile hasn’t happened yet. “I end up laughing at myself,” he conceded. But even after two and a half years of caring for Dreyer with the same tender care he would his own son, Wan keeps the faith.
“Get your tongue to work, that way you start eating and talking. Push up Brad, push up,” Wan says as he brushes Dreyer’s teeth, gums and tongue. There is no noticeable response, but Wan keeps coaching him as he gently goes over every part of Dreyer’s body with a soapy washcloth, paying attention to every piece of a man’s grooming ritual, including deodorant and a finishing pat of Old Spice.
There is no moment in this ritual that Wan has performed several hundred times that appears perfunctory.
An uplifting drumbeat of Christian motivational affirmations about healing and wellness pours out of a laptop Wan has set up on a shelf in Dreyer’s room. There’s a Batman poster on the ceiling, a Sonoma Valley High School class of 2006 photo and other reminders of an old life that Brad’s mother, Mary Kate Dreyer, still hopes he might, through intensive therapy from professionals and committed caregivers like Wan, reclaim in at least some small measure.
“I want to see you talk on my watch, before I leave this place,” Wan declares sternly, looking into the still-handsome face of Dreyer, whose eyes, behind glasses, don’t appear to be focused.
By definition, Wan is a caregiver. But he is more like a close uncle, best friend and extension of Dreyer himself, intuiting his needs, desires and discomforts since he can’t speak for himself. By Wan’s estimate, Dreyer may understand only 10 words.
Still, Wan reads to him, anything from sports stories in the newspaper to books he knows his sons of similar age would like. He takes Dreyer for wheelchair walks in the neighborhood park, plays his favorite old TV shows such as “The Simpsons” and “Family Guy,” and helps with home physical therapy.
“I talk to him as I would talk to my son. I get mad at him. I’m joyful with him. I make silly jokes. I just want to believe he’s enjoying it,” Wan says.
He maintains with understatement that “the only qualification you need for this job is compassion.” Mary Kate Dreyer does not agree.
“I could not have Brad at home without Bentley. You are a gift from heaven, Mr. Wan,” she calls to him as Bentley finally readies Dreyer for his wheelchair. A skilled carpenter, Wan even built her a fence and fixed an antique dresser.
After earning an MBA, Wan taught high school math and economics, managed a bank for 11 years and oversaw the Fijian branch of an Australian government agency serving underdeveloped South Pacific communities, similar to the Peace Corps.
This is not the job he envisioned when he came to the U.S. with his wife, Dee, in 2009 after winning a green-card lottery that allowed him to emigrate. Disenchanted with what they believed was government corruption following a series of military coups in Fiji, the couple decided to start over in the U.S., hoping to provide better opportunities for their three sons, ages 19, 21 and 24.
They joined a growing community of ex-pat Fijians in Sonoma County that Dr. Narayan Raju, the honorary consul for Fiji in San Francisco, estimates at about 600. Some within the local Fijian community believe they could number 1,000 or more, and an extraordinarily high percentage of them, by some estimates as much as 90 percent, are or have been caregivers.
Although the highest proportion of California’s more than 15,000 native Fijians live in Sacramento, many are migrating to the Petaluma and Santa Rosa areas, said Raju, because of an influx of retirees in the area who need help with day-to-day living. Eritrean, Filipino and some Latino immigrants have also taken to caregiving, but the Fijians have claimed it both as family business and a religious calling. Most have a strong Christian faith, primarily Methodist and evangelical, and call upon that as motivation to attend to others.
It is a job, nonetheless, that most have assumed by default and economic necessity. Many, in their 40s or older, arrived in the midst of the economic downturn and found doors closed to them in their professions, even those with high qualifications and documentation.
At that age, it is not realistic to go back to school and retrain. Those who are in-home caregivers are paid by the day or week, and for many, a day is 24 hours long. Their pay in reality is much less than minimum wage and if they need time off, they have to find and pay for their own relief.
Under California’s Domestic Worker Bill of Rights, which went into effect in January 2014, caregivers and others who provide in-home service work must be paid the minimum wage of $9 an hour and time-and-a-half for every hour over nine in a day, and 45 in a week.
But enforcement can be a challenge. Caregivers worry about losing their jobs, particularly the undocumented, even though they are entitled to the same rights, said Maureen Purtill, director of the Graton Day Labor Center, which seeks to advance workers’ rights and facilitate fair employment. The center is doing outreach within the Fijian community and other immigrant communities, encouraging workers to stand up for themselves and make claims to the state for back wages if employers don’t comply.
“I came here thinking it would be easy to get the type of work I was doing in Fiji,” says Licia Banuve, 57, who came with her husband, Lekima (Lex) to Santa Rosa in 2007 with a green immigration card, leaving behind a good job in the office of the High Commission for Papua New Guinea in Fiji. But neither she nor Lex, who also worked in diplomatic offices in Fiji, could find jobs in the private or public sector.
So they became caregivers, a job for which they say they are innately suited, even though the occupation barely exists in Fiji. The people of this South Pacific island have strong family ties and the cultural norm is for multiple generations to live together. Some quietly express bewilderment that there is such a high demand for their services in the U.S.
Still, they take pride in their profession and express tenderness for many of their clients, coming to embrace them as family members, particularly those with absent or neglectful families.
“Caregiving is in our blood in Fiji,” says Ili Raiyawa, who was a research librarian for an international social welfare agency before coming to the U.S. in 2000. She spends her nights caring for a 67-year-old woman who is partially paralyzed from a stroke. By day, Raiyawa helps connect fellow Fijians with clients who need caregivers, working out of an office in her garage in Santa Rosa’s Roseland area. She answers calls 24 hours a day.
“We take care of our elders,” she says of Fijian culture. “We don’t pay people to take care of them. We take turns in the family. We have only one or two old people’s homes and it’s a big thing if someone takes their elders there. We have love in the house and we can take care of them better than anybody else.”
Wan said he took care of his bedridden father for the last year of his life, doing many of the things he does for Brad Dreyer. Before that, his father lived with his sister, who also cared for their ailing mother as she was dying.
”Parents retire and they just go live with their children. It’s not even an issue with us,” he explains.
It is a job with no precise description. Every situation is different, every client’s needs unique. They may be young and severely disabled, in their 90s with dementia, or hospice patients in their last months, weeks or days of life. Caregivers can find themselves overseeing patients with complex medical needs, handling medications, catheters, syringes, colostomy bags, oxygen tanks. They might manage their client’s social lives, take them on outings, run interference with family members, do the shopping and light housekeeping, sleep at their bedsides as they are dying, clean their bodies after death and lay out their burial clothes.
Caregiver Teri Bond.
“You wouldn’t believe what I handle. There are no clear boundaries,” says Teri Bond, a native Fijian who turned to caregiving after she lost a job in Silicon Valley in the dot-com bust more than a decade ago. There are family dynamics, hospital dynamics, home dynamics. The caregiver, she explains, pivots in the middle of sometimes competing forces, striking what she calls “a beautiful balance” that always seeks to keep the welfare of the person she is caring for at the center of every decision.
“The Department of Labor did a survey and found caregiving to be the most depressing kind of work in the United States because you cannot afford to be unhappy or angry,” she reflects. “The patients can. You’re kind of like a sponge who soaks everything in.”
Bond, 50, lives in an apartment with a 93-year-old former UC Berkeley professor, “a brilliant man” with Alzheimer’s disease. During a quick lunchtime break, her phone rings incessantly. She also has her own placement agency and is coordinating the homecoming of a 90-year-old man with end-stage lung disease, talking with a caseworker from the rehab hospital from which he is being released to ensure that his medical, comfort and emotional needs are met. She wants him to feels like he is still “in charge of his life.”
Bond, who is almost 6 feet tall, speaks with the assured authority of a CEO over the phone. But when she talks personally about the people she cares for, she tears up.
There was the elderly woman who lived for calls from her only son. When a call didn’t come on her birthday, Bond told a white lie. She said he had called while the woman was sleeping. The truth, she said, “would have ruined her day, ruined her week.”
Bond knows how important personal ties are to the elderly and dying, things that go beyond basic caretaking. If a client is in need of company, she becomes a detective, probing for clues about old friends. She may ask where the client went to school, look up classmates and call them over for tea. She is a careful listener, picking up on their likes, finding music they will enjoy on the computer and selecting TV shows that will stimulate them. If they mention a special restaurant, she will take them there, often doing personal advance work with the staff so that when she arrives with her client, they will be greeted warmly.
Fijian caregivers think nothing of welcoming their elderly clients into their lives, just as they would if they were part of their own family. Although those who have worked for placement agencies are counseled not to get personally involved, they insist it’s an impossible expectation.
“They see you every day. They talk to you every day, and that’s what they’re longing for, to talk to their family every day. But they’re not there. You’re the one who is there,” says Raiyawa. She has cared for more than 100 people in 14 years, many at the end of life; she will lay out a comforter to be by their side so they are not alone when they die. She has cringed inside as families have squabbled over the beds of dying relatives, denying them what she believes is the peaceful passing they deserve, unhindered by old hurts.
“We know we’re not supposed to, but we’re always emotionally involved. We feel for them when they’re being mistreated or neglected. We can’t block out what we see and hear,” says Licia Banuve, who spends nights with an elderly woman with Alzheimer’s. She and her husband Lex pour out their feelings to themselves when they get home, and “pray together.”
A “good” death was the final exit of George Greeott, a rancher and woodworker from Windsor who died in 2014 at age 104, having reveled in most every day of his life. Lex spent three years with Greeott at his hilltop ranch, preparing meals for him and doing his laundry. They were close.
“One day we had our dinner,” Lex remembers. “He said, ‘I’m going to bed.’ I said OK. Then after awhile, it was very quiet. I went into his room and he looks different. He’s already gone.”
More heartbreaking is observing how money can divide and isolate families. He recalls one wealthy client in Santa Rosa who had a son and daughter who lived in Northern California. Neither visited.
“Only when he got worse did the daughter come. She has power of attorney. She controls everything. There was sort of a struggle in the family. They ended up selling the house and he is in an Alzheimer’s facility. I feel sorry for him,” Lex says softly, his eyes looking down. “I don’t think he deserved to be treated that way.”
Caregivers seem committed to bringing to their clients at the end whatever bit of happiness they can.
“It is ingrained in us that one of the highest honors you can have is to take care of those who took care of you,” says Santa Rosa caregiver Viniana Gaunavinaka.
Bond says she has many times treated her elderly clients to island-style birthday parties, dressing them in beautiful muumuus and inviting friends and other Fijians to come celebrate with guitar music and traditional food. For the 40th birthday party of one of her own close friends, many of her Fijian guests invited their elderly clients. The bash, held in a hall at the Oakmont Senior Living community, was for the attendees like a dip in the youth-restoring pool from the movie “Cocoon.”
“There was a visiting jazz band from Fiji,” Bond says. “This was all hair down and oh, my gosh, the food! All caregivers were on standby. But who cares. These guys were on cloud nine. They danced and danced and they were crazy. They were recalling their time during the war. They never wanted to stop. We had to announce the last dance over and over.”
The relationship is not a one-way street. Caregivers speak of the life lessons they learn from their clients, of their loyalty in marriage and their frugality, often born out of an early life of deprivation.
“It’s beautiful, their sense of reality, their depth of endurance and sense of responsibility,” Bond explains. “I worked for a lady who saved $25 a week with her husband and became an established multimillionaire. She didn’t have any children, but she supported her brother’s children. She taught me how to make the simplest cole slaw with a dash of sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper. It’s the best cole slaw I’ve ever had. These people have a great understanding of this country that is something that cannot be taught. I’ve had the privilege of seeing it through their eyes.”
Gaunavinaka tells of a Windsor woman, a well-known dynamo she cared for in her last days of suffering from cancer. “One of the things I learned from her is that gratefulness releases generosity,” she says. “She was always thankful for whatever we did. Little things. Big things. Even in her last stage, when she has to stop to breathe just to talk, she says thank you. Gratefulness makes you more generous of your time and resources. We live in a society that is so strong in ‘what can you do for me?’ ”
Elena Waqabaca, left, cares for 95-year-old Dottie who has dementia and lives in Waqabaca’s apartment in Santa Rosa. “She is growing old gracefully,” says Waqabaca who has been caring for Dottie for about five years.
Elenoa Waqabaca remembers the date, Dec. 12, five years ago, when she met her current client. Waqabaca had been recruited by a cousin who had been taking care of the then-90-year-old woman, but was moving back to Fiji. It was a hard time. Waqabaca was dropping her own mother off at the airport for a permanent move back to Fiji, and she was dealing with profound changes in her new life. A former aide in the office of the vice president of Fiji, she had been forced to flee the country within 24 hours after a 2006 coup.
“My first night here, when I put her to bed to sleep, the first thing she said to me was, ‘Can you pray for me?’ And I did. I hadn’t prayed for three long years, but I’m the caregiver and the client is always right. I had backslid. I had all these guilty things. But she contributed to my getting back to the church.”
Waqabaca is sitting in a small yogurt shop near Montgomery Village in Santa Rosa, where she brings her client at least once a week for her favorite treat. The woman, now 95, happily digs into her berry yogurt. She has dementia and repeats questions. Waqabaca answers each time, patiently, as if it were the first time.
She lives with Waqabaca, occupying the second bedroom in her small apartment in Santa Rosa. After her son and daughter-in-law moved out of state, the decision was made for the woman to stay with her caregiver. The 49-year-old Fijian makes room for the client in her life, while making sure the woman has photo albums of her own family within reach.
“Give me a hug,” Waqabaca affectionately urges as she helps her “roommate” on with her coat. Waqabaca brings her along on errands and if she needs time away, she says she has to “buy her freedom” by paying a neighbor, an aunt or other Fijians in her close-knit community to relieve her.
Some cases are harder, the people with disabilities and illnesses. Waqabaca considers herself fortunate to have such a sweet and easygoing lady under her own roof.
“The funny thing is, and I’ll be very honest,” she says. “I don’t find this work hard. I don’t complain about it because I have a life. I don’t have to be away from my home. I just look after her and feed her.
“It seems so hard for American society to understand. But this is just like caring for one of our own.”
“Rednexican Nachos” Sauced BBQ and Spirits will be coming to Petaluma this spring.
“Rednexican Nachos” Sauced BBQ and Spirits will be coming to Petaluma this spring.
Adding to the new Basin St. Properties Theater District restaurant lineup (after several closures), is Livermore-based Sauced BBQ and Spirits. The South Bay restaurant is focused on, natch, ‘que, but also is noted for a huge lineup of hard-to-find whiskies and fried-deliciousness-overload. Meaning everything from tot-tas (tater tots with cheddar, bacon jam, sour cream, jalapeno and chives), “Rednexican” nachos with brisket, polbano questo, beans, corn, jalapenos and bbq sauce, ribs, burgers, links, and of course fried Oreos and banana pudding.
Expect the same in the North Bay. BYO-Bib. And did we mention 25 large screen TV’s and live country music? Awesome blossom.
Opening May 2015
The restaurant joins Bistro 100, which recently opened.
Romance comes in all shapes and sizes. And budgets. Whether you’re a traditionalist (chocolates, sparkling wine), a little spicy (lingerie and love poems), or just want to please your partner with a bottle of whiskey and a hipster T-shirt, we’ve got you covered. Just remember that love makes the world go ’round — as long as you don’t screw it up, Romeo.
DOWN TO EARTH Who do you love?
Sonoma Rye Whiskey
Out West, we know a thing or two about whiskey. Starting with a rye mash and using direct-fire alembic stills, Sonoma County Distilling Co. in Rohnert Park bottles small-batch whiskies and bourbons in the heart of Wine Country. Imagine that! Aged in new, charred American oak barrels, this classic rye is a winter warmer with flavors of vanilla, allspice and white pepper. Not to mention it comes in a super-cool, old-timey bottle. Bottoms up. $53, Bottle Barn, 3331-A Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-528-1161, bottlebarn.com
Farm Fresh Tees
Couples wearing matching track suits? Dreadful. But there’s nothing wrong with a little thematic wardrobing for a day of togetherness, especially when these shirts are pajama-soft and oh so hip. Farm Fresh Clothing Co.’s line of farm-to-fashion T-shirts is all original designs that show the world you’re a fan of the fields. Water-based inks and organic cotton make you eco-friendly as well. Add a Farm Fresh cap to complete the look. Cap $20, T-shirt $45, Farm Fresh Clothing Co., 7190 Keating Ave., Sebastopol, 707-634-7053, farmfreshclothingco.com
Zebra Pasta
Bring a little joy to your dinner with little black-and-white striped bow-tie pasta from Italy. It’s made with squid ink (an aphrodisiac, we hear) and duram wheat and goes beautifully with a cream sauce or a spritz of olive oil. $11.99, VJB Vineyards & Cellars, 60 Shaw Ave., Kenwood, 707-833-2300, vjbcellars.com
SPICY Fun to Share
Wine-Infused Jerky
Jerky goes platinum with Clos du Bois Winery and Krave Jerky’s limited-edition, wine-infused flavors: Chardonnay Honey Rosemary Turkey Jerky and Cabernet Sauvignon Blackberry Balsamic Beef Jerky. The gift set comes with a bottle of Clos du Bois Reserve Chardonnay and Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon in a rustic wooden box. Or just stick some in your honey-bunny’s lunch box. $65, Clos du Bois, 19410 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-1651, closdubois.com; kravejerky.com
Andora Underwire Bra and Thong
Let’s be frank: ’Tis the season to be a little bit naughty, what with Cupid flying around. But skip the tacky stuff and give her the gift that keeps on giving. This high-end, Simone Perele Andora foundation set in poppy red is both Friday-night fun and Monday-morning comfy, if you catch the drift. The set comes with a personalized bra fitting at Ma Cherie et Moi. Bra $89, panties $39, Ma Cherie et Moi, 2332 Magowan Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-573-1103, visit on Facebook
Jimtown Spicy Pepper Jam
It’s kinda hot, kinda sweet and spreadable on just about anything. Once you taste it, this jam will become your new favorite condiment for toast, cornbread, French fries and with a side of aged cheese. It’s also perfectly delicious straight from the container, at midnight, in front of the refrigerator, when you’re wearing nothing but a smile. $6 for 9.5 ounces, Jimtown Store, 6706 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-433-1212, jimtown.com
Silk Chinese Lanterns
Lit or simply hanging in a mismatched group of colors and shapes, these silk lanterns give bedrooms an exotic, passionate flair. We’re partial to red, which represents luck, love and passion in China. They come in multiple shapes (round, teardrop, diamond, parachute), sizes and colors. $18-$25, Old Shanghai Decor, 172 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-762-8088, oldshanghaionline.com
Wine Forest Candy Cap Mushrooms
More dessert than main course, these rare little mushrooms have an intense maple aroma and flavor, making them perfect for swirling into ice cream, crème brulee and cookies. Hey, there’s a reason they’re called “candy cap.” Foraged by mushroom experts and dried, they’re part of the Wine Forest Wild Foods lineup of exotic deliciousness harvested along the North Coast. $23, Big John’s Market, 1345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-7151, bigjohnsmarket.com
CLASSIC Nicely done, Romeo
Tabac Aurea Perfume
There’s something intensely sexy about a scent that’s as enticing on him as it is on her. Which is why we love Sonoma Scent Studio’s Tabac Aurea, a rich, heady perfume that enrobes with notes of cedar, sandalwood, pipe tobacco, leather, clove, vanilla and amber. Definitely not for shrinking violets, it’s a bold statement for thoughtful men and memorable women. $42 for 17 ml bottle, Sonoma Scent Studio, sonomascentstudio.com
Pillow Talk
Say what you really mean with these eco-friendly pillows from Alexandra Ferguson. Produced from hemp, organic cotton canvas and felt derived from recycled plastic bottles, they’re squeezingly soft and make a passionate statement on any bed or loveseat. $89.95 for 10-inch by 14-inch pillow, $129 for 16-inch square pillow, G’s General Store, 19 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-933-8082
Luxe Chocolates
There’s chocolate and then there’s chocolate. Meaning you’ll be sleeping on the sofa if you dare buy that cheap stuff at the drug store. Show your chocoholic some serious love with a 32-piece box of truffles from Santa Rosa’s Recherche du Plaisir. Pick and choose from the Violet Beauregard (white chocolate with blueberry preserves), South Seas Surprise (ginger, cinnamon and honey), Snowheart (white chocolate and peppermint in a dark chocolate heart) and more than a dozen other flavors in milk, dark or white chocolate. $34 for 16-piece box, $66 for 32-piece box, 3401 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-843-3551, rdpsweets.com
“The Essential Rumi”
The 13th-century Middle Eastern poet Jalal al-Din Rumi, it seems, had quite a lot of insights into life and the human condition. But it’s his love poetry that deeply hooks the romantic nature. To wit: “The minute I heard my first love story, I started looking for you, not knowing how blind that was. Lovers don’t finally meet somewhere, they’re in each
other all along.” Swoon. $15.99, Copperfield’s Books, various locations, copperfieldsbooks.com
Armando Ceja is the winemaker for Ceja Vineyards in Sonoma. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
Don Enrique Segura came to Napa Valley from Mexico in 1956, leaving behind a young bride and finding vineyard work to support the family that was to come. His wife later joined him, he was hired permanently by Charles Krug Winery in St. Helena, and he and his family tended the Krug vines until his death in 1983.
Rosaura Segura of Calistoga. (photo by Kent Porter)
The effort was not lost on his daughter, Rosaura Segura, one of a growing number of children of Mexican immigrants in Sonoma and Napa who have their own wine-based businesses. She and her husband, Enrique Lopez, own the Encanto Vineyards wine brand in St. Helena and vineyards in Carneros and Lake County. She manages the winery, he tends the vines.
“My dad used to take me with him to the fields when he was irrigating, before the drip system,” Segura recalled. “In summers, against his better judgment, I would pick grapes. My husband’s family also worked in the fields, so the field is in our blood.”
Segura and Lopez are vital members of the Mexican-American Vintners Association (MAVA), a nonprofit organization of wineries that pour their wines and tell the rich stories of how their families came to Wine Country to find work, persevered, and became leaders in winemaking and agriculture. Through public tastings, festivals and winemaker dinners, they promote their products more effectively than they could individually, and turn event proceeds into scholarships for Napa and Sonoma Latino students.
“MAVA has given us small producers visibility,” Segura said. “We work together and are a very proud group. We’re capable of hard work, we have vision and we can make things happen. Working together will get us farther. We also give back to the community and hope to be role models for all the young women and young men who might want to pursue a career in this very compatible field.”
Amelia Moran Ceja is the president and owner of Ceja Vineyards in Sonoma. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
In Sonoma, couples Amelia and Pedro Ceja, and Martha and Armando Ceja, arrived as kids with their parents from Jalisco and Michoacan, Mexico, in 1967, and went to work in the vineyards, pruning, weeding and harvesting. They now own 113 acres of grapevines, the Ceja Vineyards winery, and are partners in Carneros Brewing Co.
Their adult children are making a mark, too. Dalia Ceja, 29, daughter of Amelia and Pedro, is Ceja Vineyards’ sales and marketing director; one of her brothers, Ariel, 31, runs the tasting room (and for three years owned Bistro Sabor in downtown Napa, before closing it in 2013 after a lease dispute). Their cousin, Belen Ceja, 27, assists her father, Armando, with winemaking at Ceja Vineyards.
Also in Sonoma, MAVA member Robledo Family Winery opened in 2003 what it says is the first tasting room in the U.S. established by a Mexican immigrant. At age 16, Reynaldo Robledo left Michoacan for Napa and learned to prune vines at Christian Brothers Winery. In 1996, he formed Robledo Vineyard Management and eventually acquired some 350 vineyard acres in Sonoma, Napa and Lake counties. One if his sons, Everado Reynaldo, now runs the winery and vineyard management business, with assistance from brothers Jenaro, Francisco, Luis, Lazaro and Emiliano.
Ignacio Delgadillo Sr. arrived in Napa Valley in 1972 from Jalisco to work in vineyards, and eventually became cellarmaster at Freemark Abbey in St. Helena. He also founded Wine Country Cases, a manufacturer of custom wood wine boxes. He and his son, Ignacio Jr., started Delgadillo Cellars in 2001, with Senior managing the vineyards and winemaking, Junior handling sales and marketing of the Cabernet Sauvignons.
Oscar Renteria of Renteria Wines also followed his father’s footsteps down vine rows. He helped his dad, Salvador, build Renteria Vineyard Management into one of the largest vine tenders, by acreage, in Northern California, with clients that include William Selyem, Robert Mondavi Winery and Duckhorn Vineyards. The Renteria wines (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma and Napa) are made by Ladera Vineyards’ Karen Culler and sold at the chic Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley gallery in Yountville.
Similar stories are told by other MAVA members, which include Alex Sotelo Cellars, Justicia Wines, Maldonado Family Vineyards, Mario Bazan Cellars, Voces Wines and Volcan Cellars. Encanto’s Segura, treasurer of the organization, speaks for many when she says that MAVA’s efforts are in large part a tribute to their elders who left Mexico for California to seek better lives.
“I always admired my father because with very little, he was able to provide for his wife and six children,” said Segura, whose oldest of four children, Horatio Lopez, is studying viticulture and enology at Cal State University Fresno. “I am sure that if he had the opportunity we did, he would have done more than working in the field. We did Encanto in honor of him and Enrique’s brothers.”
At an informal meeting of Sonoma and Napa wineries pouring at the Michoacan State Fair in 2010, Rolando Herrera of Napa’s Mi Sueño Winery encouraged them to unite, and MAVA took shape. Its roots now run deep, connecting its members’ Mexican heritage with their new lives in California.
Craig Ramini, owner of Ramini Mozzarella, died last week. Photo courtesy of Audrey Hitchcock
Craig Ramini, owner of Ramini Mozzarella, died last week. Photo courtesy of Audrey Hitchcock
The local food industry was rocked by the recent news that Craig Ramini, the founder of Ramini Mozzarella, died last week from a short battle with cancer.
News of his sickness filtered through the community when wife Audrey Hitchcock set up a fundraiser for his medical bills and announced she was suspending operations at the creamery — at least temporarily.
As the news sinks in, friends are working to help maintain the Tomales ranch and hope to garner enough support to keep Ramini’s dream alive. So far, nearly $16,000 has been raised, but much more is needed.
Local brews hook up with that perfect mate. (illustrations by Ryan Mesheau)
Wine and cheese parties are de rigueur in Sonoma, but beer is often a better friend to fromage.
Much of that has to do with beer’s carbonation, which cuts through cheese’s creamy, mouth-coating fat. (Sparkling wine does the same thing). Add the bitterness of hops, the sweetness of malt, and additional flavorings such as fruit, spice and oak, and beer becomes a multidimensional, nearly universal match for cheese. Crisp white wines can be excellent with many cheeses, yet the astringent tannins in red wines can have a curdling effect in the mouth with milky cheeses. Beer is a safer bet.
Delicate beers (think lagers) tend to go best with young, fresh cheeses, yet delicate isn’t on the menu for winter. The season calls for hearty, rich, throatwarming brown ales, porters and stouts, and they can pair beautifully with nutty aged and smoked cheeses, Brie-like triple creams, even blue cheeses, notorious for being a wrecking ball on the palate with wine.
Try these combinations of local cheese producers and local brewers:
Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk with hoppy ales
This triple-cream cheese, which grows more pungent with age, calls for equally assertive beers. Try Red Tail Ale from Mendocino Brewing and Bear Republic Brewing’s Red Rocket Ale.
Bellwether Farms Carmody with stout
Fogbelt Brewing’s Armstrong Stout has a bitter chocolate finish that pleasantly contrasts with this buttery cow’s milk cheese. Lagunitas Brewing’s Cappuccino Stout, available January through March, has a strong coffee note and a 9.2 percent alcohol punch, yet for an after-dinner sip with Carmody, it’s a dream.
Bleating Heart Ewelicious Blue with Imperial stout
Yes, it’s a blue cheese, and a relatively mild one made by this Tomales producer, yet it’s assertive enough for Lagunitas Imperial Stout: roasty, toasty and viscous, with bittersweet chocolate and coffee notes.
Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog aged goat cheese with brown ale
St. Florian’s Brown Ale has great crispness to support its nutty, malty base, and it stand ups nicely to this pleasantly assertive, creamy cheese from Arcata.
Joe Matos St. George with moderately hoppy stouts
This full-flavored cow’s milk cheese from Sebastopol has a cheddar-like depth and texture. Its nutty notes make it ideal for Dempsey’s Ugly Dog Stout from Petaluma, and Cloverdale Monster Brown Ale from Ruth McGowan’s Brewpub.
A sampler flight of beers at Bear Republic Brewing Co., in Healdsburg. (photo by Christopher Chung)
Buck up, buttercup. The holidays are over, so put aside those seasonal beers with pumpkin, spice, spruce and other oddball ingredients, and embrace authentic winter brews, the amber and brown ales, the porters and stouts of the beer universe.
Soul-warming dark, rich ales with their typically creamy textures, toasted malt, roasted coffee and dark chocolate flavors are the grain-and-hops drinks of winter. They’re sumptuous and comforting, meant for sipping and not chugging, and they’re great mates with cold-weather foods such as stews, roasts, root vegetables, mushrooms, chili, skillet cornbread and most cheeses.
Seth Wood pouring beer at Woodfour Brewing Company in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (photo by Crista Jeremiason)
As the weather changes, so do beer tastes. Light lagers, which are cold-fermented and stored (“lagered”) for weeks or months under cold temperatures, are the beers of summer, the Budweisers at the low end and Pilsner Urquells at the higher end. They’re crisp and refreshing, with the purity of flavor more important than the quantity of flavor. Ales, on the other hand, are fermented at warmer temperatures and with yeasts that bring out the heady, complex, seductive aromas of the grains, malts and hops from which they’re made.
Pale ales and India Pale Ales (IPAs) are golden-colored and refreshing, with a touch of bitterness from the liberal use of hops, the resin-y dried flowers that give beer its bite. Amber ales, named for their color, are richer yet still crisp, with a balance of malt sweetness and hop bitterness. These beers are assertively delicious year-round, yet none are a better friend for cold-weather consumption than seasonal brown ales, stouts and Imperial stouts.
Wine Country is a hotbed for these winter warmers and there are dozens from which to choose, on tap and in bottle. Always tinkering, local brewers push the envelope by adding a vast array of ingredients to the basic ale recipe of water, barley, hops and yeast. Chocolate, vanilla, coffee, spices, berries, citrus rind and flaked oatmeal can add complexity to their beers, as does aging them in used wine and bourbon barrels.
Brown ales are typically brewed with chocolate malt, roasted coffee and other adjuncts to give them their deep color and intense flavor. St. Florian’s
Brewery in Windsor produces a beautifully balanced brown that has hints of malt, coffee and caramel.
Bottles of beer on the wall at Woodfour Brewing Company. (Crista Jeremiason)
“While most brown ales tend toward bitter or sweet, this is perfectly balanced between those flavor profiles,” said coowner and CEO Amy Levin. “Brown ales have a reputation for being heavier beers, but ours is a palate cleanser.”
At 6 percent alcohol by volume, it does a fine job of combatting a cold afternoon or evening, with notes of roasted nuts, caramel and salty anise.
Levin and her husband, Aron, a captain with the Windsor Fire District, named the brewery after Florian, the patron saint of firefighters. They donate a minimum of 5 percent of their profits to fire-related and community-based organizations.
At its Cloverdale brewery, Healdsburg-based Bear Republic Brewing Co. makes an altogether different brown ale. Its Peter Brown Tribute Ale reflects brewer Richard “Ricardo” Norgrove’s penchant for making big, hoppy, malty ales. Tribute is brewed with molasses and brown sugar; its sweetness disappears in the brewing process, but a deep chocolate and caramel character remains.
Dry stouts (think Ireland’s Guinness) are very dark, occasionally jetblack, roasty, bitter and creamy, sometimes with bittersweet chocolate notes. A relatively new player in the Sonoma suds scene, Fogbelt Brewing in Santa Rosa is the partnership of Paul Hawley and Remy Martin, both of whom come from local winemaking families. In November, they brewed a fresh batch of Armstrong Stout and moved it to a finishing tank, adding American oak chips soaked in bourbon.
Josh Hamilton pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (photo by Connor Jay)
“The chips should complement the roasty chocolate flavors from the dark-roasted malt with hints of vanilla, spice and cedar,” Hawley said. “A
good stout is a beer you can cozy up with in front of a fire (and we have a fireplace at the taproom).”
Woodfour Brewing in Sebastopol produces Coffee and Pie, a stout brewed with coffee and blackberries; Petaluma’s Lagunitas Brewing Company makes Cappuccino Stout, available January through March, using coffee beans from Sebastopol’s Hardcore Coffee. This is “coffee” for adults, and at 9.2 percent alcohol, it will keep you plenty warm.
And what on the surface seems to be a bad idea is actually surprisingly successful at HenHouse Brewing Co. in Petlauma. Its Oyster Stout is made with, yes, real oyster meat and shells from Tomales Bay.
HenHouse, founded in 2012 by Collin McDonnell, Shane Goepel and Scott Goyne, uses about 3 pounds of whole oysters and an equal weight of shells in each 31-gallon boil. The idea is that the shells, high in calcium carbonate, add a distinctive, mineral-y taste and texture to stout’s roasted coffee and malt profile. It doesn’t smell or taste of oysters, and the mineral character likely isn’t obvious to most beer lovers. But the stout is delicious, good enough that it’s served at the French Laundry in Napa Valley.
Cristian Jara Villegas, left, and Jay Fellers share a sampler flight of beers at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (photo by Christopher Chung)
One rung up the big-beer ladder are Imperial stouts, decadent and potent, with alcohol levels as high as 12 percent. They’re referred to as “strong” beers, and for good reason. Imperials are luscious and chewy, with low carbonation. The intense flavors of roasted grain, unsweetened chocolate, cocoa and spice often are accompanied by glimmers of prunes and raisins.
Fort Bragg’s North Coast Brewing has had great success with its Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout, a monster with roasted coffee bean and chocolate flavors and a heavy hit of hop bitterness. It’s to be sipped, not gulped. The same is true for Mendocino County’s Anderson Valley Brewing Co.’s Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout, a viscous, woodsy ale with a strong espresso personality and a hint of caramel.
So when the temperature drops, pour a frothy pint of winter ale, tuck into a cheese plate or savory stew, and feel a glow from head to toe. The
lagers and IPAs can wait until spring.