Mangalitsa Pig Dinner

A mangalista pig from Winkler Wooly Pigs in Windsor. Photo from Tim Winkler.
A mangalista pig from Winkler Wooly Pigs in Windsor. Photo from Tim Winkler.
A mangalista pig from Winkler Wooly Pigs in Windsor. Photo from Tim Winkler.
A mangalista pig from Winkler Wooly Pigs in Windsor. Photo from Tim Winkler.

If you haven’t heard about the mangalitsa pig, you should. This prized, wooly breed is fatty and flavorful, and definitely not “the other white meat.”

A number of chefs are now harvesting the animals, and are offering them on the menu, but by far the best Mangalitsa-centric (secret) feast we’ve seen lately is this Tuesday, February 24, 2015 at the Epicurean Social Club/Matrix Winery dinner in Santa Rosa.

Feast on charcuterie, pork rinds with pork lard, pork sliders with saffron rouille, pork jowl bacon, pork belly sous vide, pork tenderloin with vanilla bean sauce and wild mushroom risotto, leaf-lard cocoa nib cookies sandwiches and of your the bacon-chocolate brittle goodie bag.

$95 per person includes wine, tickets by reservation only. Tickets at http://www.epicureanescape/epicurean-social-club.html

Sonoma’s Artisan Cheese Fair

cheese
Cheeselovers unite at Sonoma’s Artisan Cheese Fair!

This intimate cheese festival at Sonoma Cooking School, Ramekins Sunday, Feb 22 is one of the best opportunities to get face-to-face with Bay Area artisan cheesemakers. Cheesemonger Sheana Davis of the Epicurean Connection hosts the annual event, which includes a mac and cheese cookoff, cheese-tastings and beer, wine and cider tastings. Plus guest chefs, live local music and of course, cheese wheel races. The event is $50 per person, 21+only. And trust us, you won’t walk away hungry or thirsty. Tickets available online, event lasts from 1-4pm

8 Eats for Chinese New Year

Egg Puffs from Quickly in Santa Rosa.
Egg Puffs from Quickly in Santa Rosa.
Mini fried octopus at Quickly in Santa Rosa. Photo: Heather Irwin
Mini fried octopus at Quickly in Santa Rosa. Photo: Heather Irwin

This week marked the official kick-off for Chinese New Year, a two week festival of food and family. The annual spring celebration ushers in the promise of good fortune with steaming bowls of noodles, whole fish, sweets, citrus and other “lucky” delicacies.

This year’s star of the zodiac? The goat, an animal notorious for its appetite. (Okay, some say its the sheep, but they eat a lot too.) We say that’s good enough reason to break out of your sweet and sour pork rut and try something new at some of Sonoma County’s favorite Chinese eateries.

1. New! 5. Fried tenpura and egg puffs at Quickly: Based in Taiwan, this wacky fast-food transplant is all about the tea — be it green, black, flavored with roses, coffee, red beans or waxed gourds — supplemented with tapioca boba or grass jelly. Just dive in, because it’s all an adventure. Pair with an eye-popping menu of deep fried yummies including mini octopus, tofu, tenpura (bits of octopus inside a ball of corn-dog-like batter) and fish balls, which are pressed bits of fried fish, and not part of the fish’s, uh, reproductive anatomy. If you’re a little skeetchy about trying new flavors, go with the egg puffs. Though they look like a giant square of bubble wrap, the taste is similar to a really eggy waffle. Expect a line of hungry Santa Rosa Junior College students ahead of you. 1880 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa.

2. Steamed bao, pork belly and bbq pork at G+G Market: The local grocery market is an under-the-radar gem for all things Chinese–at a great price. We’re huge fans of their steamed bao and bbq pork, available in the deli. You can also find just about any Asian ingredient, from lychee jelly to black bean paste and dried shrimp, in their extensive grocery section. You’ll walk away with plenty of food for far less than you’d pay at a restaurant. 1211 W. College Ave, Santa Rosa and 701 Sonoma Mt. Parkway, Petaluma.

3. Chicken feet, tofu skin at Hang Ah: Dim sum fans agree that this is the best dim sum in the North Bay. The menu is massive, and chances are you won’t recognize about half of the small plates. But at just $2-$4 each, its worth some experimentation. Chicken feet are exactly that. They’re a huge delicacy, and folks raised on ‘em swear by them. Personally, I’m not a fan, but I did try one. Tofu skin? Sounds gross, tastes incredible. 2130 Armory Rd, Santa Rosa.

Egg Puffs from Quickly in Santa Rosa.
Egg Puffs from Quickly in Santa Rosa.

4. Cantonese Roast Duck and Ma Po Tofu at MY Noodles: Martin Yan’s noodle shop at the Graton Casino is a hugely-overlooked restaurant with really solid (and authentic) Chinese favorites. The really like the hoisin-glazed roast duck and bite of ma pao tofu, a vegetarian specialty with brown beat sauce and spicy peppercorn oil. 288 Golf Course West Dr., Rohnert Park.

5. Hot and Sour Soup at Kirin Restaurant: I’m a recent convert to hot and sour, over my usual wonton. Filled with wood ear mushrooms, bamboo shoots, feathery bits of egg, and a hearty kick of spice, it’s my new alternative to chicken soup for anything that ails you. 2700 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa.

6. Bakery goodies from East Wind Bakery: Just about everyone who’s been to this charming little Asian bakery has raved about the baked bao in flavors like kimchee-sausage and curried beef, along with Chinese sponge cakes, and taro buns. I’m also ga-ga for their milk bread. 3851 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa.

7. Goji Kitchen: This Pan-Asian restaurant has become a junior college-area staple because of its extensive menu of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes, and also because of their dedication to fresh, often organic products and extensive vegetarian selections. Though its not exactly authentic, you’ve gotta try the walnut pineapple prawn (the best in the area, hands-down), along with clay pot rice (with the crispy rice on the bottom) and house made pot stickers with ginger garlic sauce. 1965 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa.

8. Lily Kai: My favorite CHP officer is a huge fan of this out-of-the-way Petaluma restaurant, and their dim sum. And that’s not something you argue with. Top bets include Siu Mai (pork and shrimp dumplings), mo shu (vegetables and thinly-sliced meat with thin pancakes and hoisin sauce) and broccoli beef. 3100 Lakeville Hwy., Petaluma.

Winery Tasting Rooms

January and February are quiet, contemplative months to enjoy wine, with most wineries less crowded than in other seasons and the new-vintage wines resting comfortably in barrels — yet sometimes available to taste. Wineries with caves and fireplaces are particularly worth seeking out. Wine writer Virginie Boone recommends these wineries for wintertime sojourns. They are open to the public, typically from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Contact the individual tasting room to confirm.

Anaba Wines, 60 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-996-4188, anabawines.com. A specialist in Rhone-inspired wines, both red and white, Anaba’s tasting room is in a 100-year-old farmhouse overlooking the Carneros hills. It’s a fine place to learn about wine, beginning with the Friday through Monday “Beyond the Label” experience, a one-hour discussion that varies from week to week. Tuesday through Thursday, enjoy the Salon Tasting, a sit-down guided tasting of several wines ($30, reservations required).

Cairdean Vineyards & Winery, 3111 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-968-5434, cairdeanestate.com. New on the northern Napa Valley scene, Cairdean produces a great variety of wines from grapes grown in Napa and Sonoma. It also offers a sprawling empire of deliciousness, from The Farmer & the Fox gourmet gastropub, open for dinner until 10 p.m., to its well-appointed Butterscots Bakery, the perfect stop for cappuccino and croissants, with an outdoor fire pit as an additional perk. The tasting room is open daily until 8 p.m. for comfortable tastings, making it easy for folks to segue to dinner next door.

Castello di Amorosa, 4045 North St. Helena Highway, Calistoga, 707-967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com. Winter is a good time to revisit 13th-century Tuscany, the inspiration for this winery’s fanciful castle. It has an underground dungeon and torture chamber, defensive towers, moats, a drawbridge, high walls and caves, and took 14 years to build. The wines are also Italian-inspired, from Sangiovese to super Tuscan blends.

Cline Cellars, 24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800-546-2070, clinecellars.com. Another beautifully set winery with roaming gardens, Carneros-based Cline offers complimentary tastings daily of five of its Rhone-style wines and, for $5, will add three reserve wines. The initial site of the final California mission in 1820, later moved to downtown Sonoma, the property includes a museum devoted to the state’s mission history and includes models of all 21 missions, originally built for the 1939 World’s Fair. Entrance is free to the museum, open daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., though reservations for large groups are required.

Dutcher Crossing Winery, 8533 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville, 866-431-2711, dutchercrossingwinery.com. Cozy in winter with its tasting-room fireplace, Dutcher Crossing offers a range of wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel. On rainy days, warm the palate with the winery’s popular port (if it’s not already sold out), made from Zinfandel grapes and high-proof brandy and aged three years.

Emeritus Vineyards, 2500 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, 707-823-4464, emeritusvineyards.com. Focused entirely on estate-bottled Pinot Noir, Emeritus invites tasters by appointment to its Hallberg Ranch for a 90-minute tour of the winery ($20) and tasting of current-release wines. Alternatively, visitors can sample through the Pinots in a 45-minute tasting ($10).

Etude Wines, 1250 Cuttings Wharf Road, Napa, 707-257-5300, etude-wines.com. Etude has long been a great name for Carneros Pinot Noir (and many other wines). Yet in 2012, Etude winemaker Jon Priest decided to take on the world, offering wine lovers the chance to come to one place and taste not only Carneros Pinot Noir, but also several versions from Santa Barbara County (where Priest grew up), Sonoma Coast, Willamette Valley and, most unusually, New Zealand’s Central Otago region.

Fritz Winery, 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale, 800-418-9463, fritzwinery.com. Also known as Fritz Underground Winery, this winery is built into the side of a hill at the northern end of Dry Creek Valley. The underground part stays naturally cool. Gravity is used to gently move the wines, which run the gamut from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. The Late-Harvest Zinfandel ideal in winter.

Grgich Hills Estate, 1829 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, 800-532-3057, grgich.com. The mighty Grgich Hills, a wonderful producer of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, offers a slew of fine visitor experiences, from barrel tasting every Friday from 2 to 4 p.m., to seated wine tastings with cheese ($40). On any day, the staff will order box lunches for visitors to enjoy on site, with advance notice.

Hall Wines, 401 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-967-2626, hallwines.com. Home to the gigantic silver bunny sculpture, Hall celebrates wine and art. Visitors can stroll through its winery enjoying works of modern art and sculptures while sampling its high-quality wines. Hall also has a winery in Rutherford that’s off the beaten track and can be visited too, for tours and tastings, by appointment.

Imagery Estate Winery, 14335 Highway 12, Glen Ellen, 707-935-4515, imagerywinery.com. Run by Joe Benziger, Imagery is as devoted to cool artwork as it is to producing great wines, including many made from unusual varieties such as Tempranillo and Lagrein. Its wine labels reflect its dual sensibilities. Check out the label gallery online and be sure to take the time to peruse the on-site art gallery as well.

Iron Horse Vineyards, 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com. This sparkling wine producer in Green Valley of Russian River Valley makes a wide selection of special bottlings that are bubbly, as well as stellar still Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. There’s a gorgeous view from the outdoor tasting bar, which is covered in case of rain. A tour and tasting with winemaker David Munksgard happens every Monday at 10 a.m. (limit 4 people; $50 per person) and should not be missed.

J Vineyards & Winery, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-5400, jwine.com. A glass of bubbly is always a good thing, and this is a well-appointed spot at which to have one, as well as taste J’s increasing lineup of single-vineyard Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. The J Bubble Room pairs wines with exquisite, locally sourced dishes.

Jamieson Ranch Vineyards, 1 Kirkland Ranch Road, American Canyon, 707-254-8673, jamiesonranch.com. The Napa Valley’s southernmost winery, Jamieson Ranch is modeled after a Western lodge, relaxed and expansive — and surrounded by 300 acres of vineyards. Open daily, it offers tastes of wines under the Jamieson Ranch label (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon) and Reata, focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as Light Horse. Light Horse gained cred from its appearance on the “Today” show, where Leslie Sbrocco recommended its value-priced Pinot Noir.

Lancaster Estate, 15001 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-8178, lancasterestate.com. A premium producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley, near where it touches neighboring Chalk Hill and Knights Valley, Lancaster offers a daily tour and tasting experience that includes a look at its 53 acres of hillside vineyards, winery production area and caves, and a seated tasting of four estate wines ($35, reservations required), centered on Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc. A similar experience can be accompanied by artisan cheeses for $45.

Marimar Estate, 11400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-4365, marimarestate.com. A leader in cool-climate winemaking and viticulture, as well as organic and Biodynamic farming, Marimar Estate is a beautiful place to visit and learn about diurnal temperature shifts along the western Sonoma Coast, as well as to taste what it all means in the glass. A traditional tasting of five wines is offered daily for $10; reserve ahead to take part in a tapas and wine pairing experience for $45. Tours are available weekdays at 11 a.m. or 2 p.m., by appointment.

Odette Estate, 5998 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-224-7533, odettewinery.com. PlumpJack’s latest endeavor, Odette is open daily by appointment for tasting and an exploration of its 45 acres of prime real estate within the Stags Leap District AVA, the provenance of silky, mouth-filling Cabernet Sauvignons.

Paradise Ridge/Byck Family Winery, 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-528-9463, prwinery.com. Situated on 156 acres with outsized views looking west over Santa Rosa and to the coast, Paradise Ridge’s winery makes a range of worthy Russian River Valley and Rockpile wines. It’s also devoted to outdoor sculpture, a selection of which is featured throughout the property in Marijke’s Grove.

Patz & Hall’s Sonoma House, 21200 Eighth St. E., Sonoma, 877-265-6700, patzhall.com. In a well-appointed house in the Carneros region, this chic tasting spot highlights all the delights of Patz & Hall, a specialist in single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Taste four wines for $25 with truffle nuts, or go for the sit-down Salon Experience, a discussion and tasting of six wines with meticulously prepared mini-meals ($50). Chances are the day will start off with a glass of bubbly to open the palate. Friday through Sunday, enjoy the Terrace Tasting, an intimate tableside tasting of single-vineyard wines with local cheese ($40).

Pine Ridge Vineyards, 5901 Silverado Trail, Napa, 800-575-9777, pineridgevineyards.com. Within the Stags Leap District, Pine Ridge makes wines from a handful of Napa Valley appellations (Carneros, Howell Mountain, Oakville, Rutherford and Stags Leap). Its 5×5 Tasting ($95) in the caves provides the opportunity to try five estate-grown wines paired with small bites. In good weather, book a Taste on the Terrace ($50), a self-guided tasting of four wines with cheese and charcuterie, with views of the Stags Leap Palisades.

Quivira Vineyards & Winery, 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com. A wonderland of natural beauty in all seasons, Quivira remains alive in winter and open for tours ($20, weather permitting) of its Zinfandel vineyards, beehives and Biodynamic gardens, where chickens freely roam. Be sure to try the winery’s sumptuous Sauvignon Blanc and small-production Grenache.

Ram’s Gate, 28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-721-8700, ramsgatewinery.com. The entry point into Carneros, Ram’s Gate offers indoor and outdoor fireplaces, perfect settings for enjoying its luxurious wines, from single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to burly Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting flights are offered, by reservation, with a chef’s selection of cheese, charcuterie and other accompaniments, Thursday through Monday. Or go for the “Palate Play” seated food and wine pairing of four wines (90 minutes, $60), available also by reservation.

Robert Biale Vineyards, 4038 Big Ranch Road, Napa, 707-257-7555, biale.com. A producer of elegant single-vineyard-designated Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs, Biale works with a wide range of historic vineyards throughout Napa and Sonoma to source grapes. Enjoy the cozy tasting room while pondering the views of the surrounding vineyards and tasting Biale’s fine wines, including its signature Black Chicken Napa Valley Zinfandel, an ode to bootlegging Prohibition days.

Schramsberg Vineyards, 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, 800-877-3623, schramsberg.com. Among the first in California to specialize in sparkling wine, Schramsberg occupies hallowed, historic ground, home to the oldest hillside vineyards in Napa Valley and some of the first caves dug for the storing and aging wine. Take a tour by appointment, and don’t miss the Mirabelle Brut Rosé and other gorgeous sparklers before moving on to taste the J. Davies Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards, 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, 707-538-9463, stfranciswinery.com. With one of the best food-and-wine pairing experiences in the county, St. Francis is a welcome place to relax and enjoy three distinct culinary adventures, from a seated multicourse food-and- wine pairing presided over by executive chef Bryan Jones ($50, reservations required), to a simpler cheese and charcuterie accompaniment, to a flight of limited-production wines ($30, walk-ins welcome). But the best-kept secret might be the private estate dinners, seven-course prix fixe meals with wine ($148, reservations required via 707-833-0255), offered six days a week by appointment.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-2020, cask23.com. The winery that shook the world by being the winning Cabernet Sauvignon at the 1976 Paris Tasting, Stag’s Leap has recently unveiled its new FAY Outlook and Visitor Center, overlooking the winery’s FAY and S.L.V. vineyards and in full view of the Stags Leap Palisades. Open daily, the center offers tours and estate collection tastings by reservation. More focused is its Fire and Water Tour and Tasting ($95), a dig into the estate property with discussion of its terroir, accompanied by wines and appetizers.

Three Sticks Wines, 143 W. Spain Street, Sonoma, 707-996-3328, threestickswines.com. Now settled into its new digs, known as The Adobe, the winery has completely renovated Sonoma’s 1842 Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe, one of the very few buildings left from the time of Mexican governorship of California. Open for tastings by appointment, its wines include around single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, a crisp Pinot Blanc and Bordeaux-inspired red blends.

Trefethen Family Vineyards, 1160 Oak Knoll Ave., Napa, 866-895-7696, trefethen.com. Having suffered damage to its historic winery building in the 2014 Napa earthquake, Trefethen powers on, with appointment-only visits to its hallowed spot in the Oak Knoll District. Classic tastings ($25) of estate-grown wines are available, as are Reserve tastings ($35), a chance to try older vintages as well as limited-release wines. The wines include a dry Riesling — a rare find in these parts — as well as Trefethen’s Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Dragon’s Tooth, a blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dining Out

Archetype, 1429 Main St., St. Helena, 707-968-9200, archetypenapa.com. A spacious, well-designed room and glassed-in porch offer comfortable surroundings for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. The seasonal menu features local, organic salads and tidbits like blinis with burrata. Side dishes are as intriguing as the entrees, including Kennebec fries and curried cauliflower gratin. A wood-fire oven gives a smoky flavor to many of the entrees. $$-$$$ Reviewed 11/2/14

Bruno’s on Fourth, 1226 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-569-8222, brunosonfourth.com. The “American comfort food” that chef Rick Bruno serves up is reliably prepared, nicely priced and tasty. There’s a Sunday brunch, kids eat free Tuesday through Thursday at dinner, and there’s a solid lunch menu. Crispy salads stand out, along with meaty dishes such as braised short ribs and roast pork. The short wine list is well-priced. Reviewed 1/26/14. $$-$$$

Burgers & Vine, 400 First St. E., Sonoma, 707-938-7110, burgersandvine.com. The old Sonoma Mission Creamery building is now an up-to-date bar and grill, featuring burgers, brisket, ribs, salads, sandwiches and more. House-brewed beer joins many craft beers on tap. The long bar is made of rescued old-growth redwood. Big-screen TVs shower you with sports, live bands are booked, and the grub is pretty much pub. Reviewed 3/23/14. $$

Café La Haye, 140 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-935-5994, cafelahaye.com. Here’s a restaurant that has its act together. Chef Jeffrey Lloyd features a different risotto and pasta dish each night, along with the best roast chicken ever. The vegetables on his plates are not given short shrift, and are cooked with intelligence and care. The appetizers are as carefully prepared as the entrees and uniformly delicious. The wine list is a tour of the region’s best wineries. Reviewed 3/30/14. $$$-$$$$

Central Market, 42 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-778-9900, centralmarketpetaluma.com. This is a genuine farm-to-table restaurant, as chef Tony Najiola raises pigs, hens and vegetables for the restaurant on his organic farm not far from town. Those pigs become some of the best charcuterie around, and the vegetables are snapping fresh and respected by the cooks. While the menu is local, the wine list is global in scope. Everything is made from scratch daily, even the breads. Reviewed 7/6/14. $$$

Cucina Paradiso, 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com. The Italian food at Cucina Paradiso has always been good, but since the restaurant’s move to new quarters, it’s great. The style is ristorante rather than trattoria, a little more mid- to northern Italy than southern, with the high quality of the dishes built on the finest ingredients chef Dennis Hernandez can find. Classic veal dishes such as saltimbocca are beautifully prepared and the antipasti are as good as the entrees. Don’t miss the semifreddo for dessert. Reviewed 8/10/14. $$-$$$$

Dry Creek Kitchen, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-0330, charliepalmer.com. This is Healdsburg’s classiest restaurant. The cooking is international-Californian, meaning lots of fresh local ingredients handled with sophistication, such as scallops en croute with a black truffle sauce, and house-smoked Liberty duck breast with a confit of duck leg meat and pork belly joining it on the plate. The pastry chef does excellent work with intricate delicacies. There’s a list of more than 500 wines, all from Sonoma County, and there is no corkage fee if you bring a Sonoma County wine of your own. All this glamour is not inexpensive, so be prepared. Reviewed 6/1/14. $$$$

Flavor Bistro, 96 Old Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa, 707-573-9600, flavorbistro.com. In its friendly, unpretentious way, Flavor Bistro is a shining example of the area’s enviable food scene. House-made pastas and pizzas, and meats and vegetables from local organic farms are expertly prepared, and the wine list is excellent. Breakfast is served most days and lunch and dinner every day. Best of all are the modest prices on most dishes. Flavor is a go-to place for locals and wise visitors. Reviewed 12/8/13. $-$$$$

Flipside Steakhouse & Sports Bar, 138 Calistoga Road, Santa Rosa, 707-539-7700, flipsidesteakhouse.com. Two big dining rooms serve up Certified Angus beef as steaks and prime rib, plus chicken, salmon and lots of crowd-pleasing sides — all priced a la carte, steakhouse-style. There are raw oysters and good crab cakes to start and a delicious slice of chocolate cake with raspberry sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream to finish. The adjoining sports bar is two rooms full of 27 huge, flat-screen TVs. Reviewed 3/9/14. $$-$$$$

Gypsy Café, 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-3825, gypsy-cafe.com. The Gypsy Café occupies the spot where the Pine Cone restaurant operated for decades. Dinner is served only on Fridays, but there’s lots to choose from and the dinners are usually well-attended. Chef Martin Maigaard calls his cooking modern comfort food, and so it is, with pot roast, local salmon in season, free-range fried chicken and vegetarian pasta among the dishes. The wine list is small, but from premium local producers. Reviewed 8/3/14 $$-$$$

Harvest Moon Café, 487 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-933-8160, harvestmooncafesonoma.com. The food at Nick and Jen Demarest’s cafe is innovative and always palate-pleasing — not an easy trick to pull off. The menu changes often, sometimes daily, although the rib-eye steak is a constant. Many ingredients are house-made, including the sausage for the chorizo sauté, and the marshmallow fluff for the s’mores. There’s an alfresco patio out back and an excellent wine list. $$$ Reviewed 10/26/14

Heritage Public House, 1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-540-0395, heritagepublichousesr.com. This is an ideal place to hang out, sample two dozen beers, ales and ciders from California, and enjoy pub grub that’s a cut above average in provenance and quality. The focus is on good ingredients, and the fare includes fish tacos, a beefy burger, salads, sandwiches, fish and chips and nightly specials. Reviewed 10/6/13. $

Hiro’s Japanese Restaurant, 107 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-763-2300, hirosrestaurant.com. Hiro’s is an exceptional Japanese restaurant. It goes beyond just fresh and lovely versions of the usual Japanese fare (although it does have them on the menu) to bring true gourmet Japanese cooking to Sonoma, including hard-to-find seafood specialties. From the arty décor to the swift and smiling service, it’s a real pleasure to dine at Hiro’s. Reviewed 8/25/13. $$-$$$

The Kenwood Restaurant, 9900 Highway 12, Kenwood, 707-833-6326, kenwoodrestaurant.com. The focus is on organic meats and vegetables from local farms used in dishes that give a Sonoma twist to sophisticated American cooking. The result is wonderfully flavored food that’s as good for you as it is delicious. The chef will buy a whole carcass and use it in many different recipes. Its farm-to-table cooking in a beautiful Sonoma Valley setting. Reviewed 3/2/14. $$$$

Kettles Vietnamese Bistro, 1202 W. Steele Lane, Santa Rosa, 707-528-3747, kettlesvietnamesebistro.com. Vietnamese restaurants used to be exotic, but this one shows how comfy the cuisine has become in America. Big portions of pretty good food, Vietnamese with some pan-Asian, and reasonable prices make for a winning formula at Kettles, which attracts a lot of families. The pho noodle soups with meat or seafood are particularly good. Reviewed 2/2/14. $-$$

LaSalette, 452 First St. E., Suite H, Sonoma, 707-938-1927, lasalette-restaurant.com. Chef Manuel Azevedo honors his Portuguese heritage by preparing classic and some innovative dishes in the Portuguese style, which means lots of flavor, spicy sausages, fruits de mer and respect for his Azores heritage. And he does it well. Dishes are perfectly cooked, many in the wood-burning oven. The wine list is loaded with Portuguese treasures and the service is snappy. It’s a real treat to dine there. Reviewed 9/7/14. $$$

Lulu’s Kitchen, 1313 Main St., Napa, 258-1313, 1313main.com. The best feature of Lulu’s Kitchen is its wine list. Offerings are not confined to California and include some of the finest wines of the world by the glass, flights and bottle. The small-plate dishes are carefully conceived and expertly prepared. The decor is sophisticated and chic, the service friendly, and the ambiance relaxing. Reviewed 1/12/14. $$-$$$

Luma, 500 First St., Petaluma, 707-658-1940, lumapetaluma.com. A real find, this unpretentious restaurant has a feel-good vibe, great service and contemporary American cooking. Nightly specials might include braised pork ribs or blackened catfish. The regular menu offers ancho- and porcini-seared filet mignon, chicken picadillo and a daily “vegetarian delight,” a tray of wonderfully prepared seasonal fruits and vegetables. The wine list is global and modestly priced. Reviewed 11/3/13. $$$

Marigold Indian Bistro, 7225 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-329-6965, visit on Facebook. Chef Uddab Timilsina makes Indian cuisine exciting, not just because he’s mastered the art of combining spices in intriguing ways, but also because his dishes are made with top-quality ingredients, which gives them the added appeal of freshness and purity of flavor. Along with the usual Indian dishes, he occasionally ventures into less charted territory. The lamb and apricot combination, for instance, is wonderful. $$. Reviewed 11/9/14

M.Y. China, Graton Resort and Casino, 630 Park Court, Rohnert Park, 707-703-1955, tastemychina.com. This is the second of well-known chef Martin Yan’s innovative Chinese restaurants. The restaurant better recreates the actual cuisines of China than do the chop suey and chow mein parlors found across America. Yan and executive chef Tony Wu insist on absolutely fresh vegetables and high quality in other ingredients. Reviewed 1/19/14. $$-$$$$

The Pullman Kitchen, 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-4300, thepullmankitchensr.com. Executive chef Darren McRonald and chef John Trunk have worked at some of the nation’s finest restaurants, and it shows in the execution of the dishes at their venue in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square district. The menu is full of familiar items such as fish tacos, roast chicken, cheeseburgers, meatballs and so on, but they are all just about perfect versions, including scrumptious desserts. There are unsuspected surprises as well. Reviewed 7/13/14. $$-$$$

Rosso Pizzeria, 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-544-3221, rossopizzeria.com. Rosso calls itself a pizzeria, but it’s a pizzeria-plus. Plusses include antipasti from fried calamari to luscious meatballs and salumi. Salads are cracking fresh. Besides really good, wood-fire pizza, there’s piadini, an Italian flatbread topped with veggies or sweet fruits. Full plates of fried chicken and Venetian-style risotto are expertly done. The wine list is eclectic, and soccer reigns on the TV. Reviewed 6/22/14. $$-$$$

Santé at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-939-2415, fairmont.com/sonoma. The cuisine at this classic restaurant sets the standard for high-quality spa food anywhere in the world. The ingredients are mostly locally sourced and treated with respect so that the basic flavors shine. The chefs use techniques and carefully measured herbs and condiments to glorify the ingredients. Service is impeccable. Luxury doesn’t come cheap, but indulge yourself here. Reviewed 6/16/13. $$$$

Scopa, 109-A Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-433-5282, scopahealdsburg.com. This red-hot restaurant has a strong influence of southern Italy and food that’s surpassingly delicious. Nonna’s Tomato-Braised Chicken with polenta keeps fans coming back. Chef Ari Rosen’s Tomasso’s Sugo Calabrese is a perfect plate of meat-sauced spaghettini. But this is not Italian-American cooking — it’s full-boat Italian. A fine list of Italian wines lets you pair this food with something from the old country. Reviewed 3/16/14. $$-$$$

Seared, 170 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-762-5997, petalumaseared.com. It’s mostly a steak house, but the menu is more varied than that, with lots of seafood and a range of good appetizers. The beef tends to be the Japanese breeds, often aged and sometimes grass-fed. The vegetables are handled with care. Chef Joe O’Donnell displays his skill by adding complexity to the food, creating a whirlwind of flavors. The restaurant knocks 25 percent off wine prices on Thursdays. Reviewed 4/6/14. $$-$$$$

Stark’s Steak & Seafood, 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com. Happy hour is a rip-roaring, after-work party most days, but in the quiet confines of the back dining room, the kitchen serves up the county’s best steaks — prime pieces of beef dry-aged for four weeks until they are bovine perfection. Everything is a la carte, so dining here is a pricey experience, but it’s worth it, for you’ll not find better beef and there are excellent seafood dishes. No corkage fee on your first two bottles of wine helps. The sides are hit or miss, but delicious when they hit, such as the tamarind barbecued prawns. Reviewed 2/9/14. $$$$

Swiss Hotel, 18 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-2884, swisshotelsonoma.com. Construction on the Swiss Hotel’s building was completed in 1840, but the scene here is up to date, especially at the tables bordering the Spain Street sidewalk. The food is Italian-American with straight American comfort food mixed into the menu. It’s not fancy, but it’s good. The bar hasn’t changed much since it was built more than 100 years ago. There’s a lovely patio for dining out back. Reviewed 6/8/14. $$-$$$$

Twisted 2, 29-F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-789-9914, twisted2.net. This sweet little place from Dick and Julie Warner serves a prix fixe menu of her masterful kitchen creations with his very educated choices of wines to go with them. There’s an emphasis on very fresh Hawaiian fish such as ono and onaga. The dishes are composed with restraint, allowing the quality of the ingredients to shine. Just hope the soup of the day is Julie’s mole pozole, as rich as a stew, with pulled pork and hominy. The Meyer lemon pudding for dessert is luscious. Reviewed 12/22/13.

Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro, 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 707-546-6462, walterhanselbistro.com. The refurbished room serves as a wine bar for Walter Hansel Winery and a showcase for chef Philippe Colasse’s French cooking. He springs surprises, too, like Peruvian causa and seafood cebiche appetizers. But it’s the French classics that really sing — sous vide chicken with mousseline sauce, perfect Liberty duck rillettes, potato gratin Savoyard, sea bass in beurre blanc, and much more. Reviewed 2/23/14. $$$$

Pizza with a Side of Groove

(photos by Connor Jay)

Tasty jazz licks will be paired with savory food bites at several Healdsburg and Geyserville restaurants in February when the Healdsburg Jazz Festival’s popular Jazz on the Menu event returns.

The festive midwinter, midweek fundraiser will be held from 6 to 9 p.m. Feb. 25 at 10 restaurants, with each donating a portion of its sales proceeds to the Healdsburg Jazz Festival’s music education programs in schools, healdsburgjazzfestival.org.

“I think it’s pretty amazing what we bring to the students,” said Jessica Felix, the festival’s executive director. “We have expanded our programs in the schools, with Operation Jazz Band, Black History Month and a Children’s Choir.”

At each of the restaurants, diners order off the regular menu and enjoy the meal and drinks while being serenaded by a live jazz combo.

The event has a progressive-dinner element as well, with patrons coming together after dinner for a sweet encore.

From 7:30 to 10:30 p.m., the after-party gala at Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg will be headlined by Brazilian guitarist Ricardo Peixoto and his quintet, along with the Healdsburg High School Jazz Band. Tickets to the party are $15 and include a dessert buffet.

This year’s Jazz on the Menu event will be held at Catelli’s Restaurant and Diavola, both in Geyserville, and Agave, Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, Bear Republic Brewing Co., Café Lucia, Campo Fina, Chalkboard, Dry Creek Kitchen and Spoonbar in Healdsburg.

“It is wonderful to have so many restaurants lit up with jazz in the quieter winter months,” said Circe Sher, director of public relations and marketing for Dry Creek Kitchen and Spoonbar.

Many of the restaurants have participated in the event since it started in 2011. In 2014, Jazz on the Menu was held during the worst storm of the year, yet the restaurants still filled up. It’s wise to make reservations early.

More interested in the bands? Consider bar-hopping your way through the evening.

“Some people go around and just get a drink at every place,” Felix said. “They just want to hear the music.”

 

Pickle It with Bay Area Chefs at SHED

Buddah's Hand preparations at Cultured Pickle in Berkeley.
Buddah’s Hand preparations at Cultured Pickle in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Cultured Pickle.
Buddah's Hand preparations at Cultured Pickle in Berkeley.
Buddah’s Hand preparations at Cultured Pickle in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Cultured Pickle.

That collective “Eeeeeeeeeee!” sound you may be hearing from food-obsessed friends may have something to do with the Feb. 21 fermentation celebration at SHED in Healdsburg.

The day’s workshop and multi-course dinner features a stunning lineup of chefs and producers, including Ali Bouzari of Pilot R&D, Kyle Connaughton of the recently-announced Single Thread Farm Restaurant, Brian Hunt of Moonlight Brewing, Nick Balla and Coutney Burns of Bar Tartine, the co-founders of Berkeley’s Cultured Pickle and Dan Felder, co-founder of Pilot R&D. They’ll be talking beer, cheese, miso, kimchee and more; later serving up a multi course communal meal with dishes like “Ice-Filtered Duck Broth with Kohlrabi and Miner’s Lettuce From Between the Vine Rows”.

You know, just something simple they whipped together.

How much would you be willing to pay for this day of fermentation and food celebrit-ay? How does $125 for the kit and caboodle grab you? See you there.

Tickets available online at . 3-10p.m., Feb. 21, 25 North St., Healdsburg.

Persona Pizza coming to Arrigoni’s space

Persona Pizza will open in downtown Santa Rosa in March 2015
Persona Pizza will open in downtown Santa Rosa in March 2015
Persona Pizza will open in downtown Santa Rosa in March 2015
Persona Pizza will open in downtown Santa Rosa in March 2015

Downtown Santa Rosa is getting a culinary shake-up as Persona Wood Fired Pizza gets ready to take over the former Arrigoni’s Deli. In what’s quickly becoming a trend in fast-casual dining, the pizzeria offers 12-inch top-your-own pizzas that are cooked in a wood-fired oven in about 90 seconds. Created by a top pizzaiolo (someone trained in the art of making pizza, notably Neopolitan-style) and a CIA-trained chef, Persona is based in Santa Barbara with plans to open more than twenty franchised stores in the Bay Area over the next several years.

And while we have nothing against good old pepperoni and mushroom, Persona will also offer up more gourmet toppings including prosciutto, Sopressata, pine nuts, arugula, burrito and blue cheese as well as the more conventional ones. A basic pizza will run about $8, but can quickly reach double digits with added toppings. Also in the lineup: A burrata and gelato bar. Noms.

Persona Pizza will open in downtown Santa Rosa in March 2015
Persona Pizza will open in downtown Santa Rosa in March 2015

What’s notable is that Pieology, a similar DIY pizzeria, recently opened in Santa Rosa’s Safeway Shopping Center on Mendocino Ave.

And yes, it is the third pizzeria in downtown Santa Rosa. But really, can you ever have enough pizza?

Expect a March opening.

James Beard Awards 2015 Semi-Finalists for Wine Country

Kathleen Weber of Della Fattoria in Petaluma was named semi-finalist for the 2015 James Beard Awards
Kathleen Weber of Della Fattoria in Petaluma was named semi-finalist for the 2015 James Beard Awards
Kathleen Weber of Della Fattoria in Petaluma was named semi-finalist for the 2015 James Beard Awards
Kathleen Weber of Della Fattoria in Petaluma was named semi-finalist for the 2015 James Beard Awards

The James Beard Award Semi-Finalists were announced today, noting the country’s food and wine professionals — from chefs and restauranteurs to wine and spirits programs.

Here are our Wine Country contenders. Winners will be announced on March 24, 2015

Outstanding baker
Edmund and Kathleen Weber, Della Fattoria, Petaluma, CA

Outstanding Restaurateur
Cindy Pawlcyn, Napa, CA (Mustards Grill and Cindy’s Back Street Kitchen)

Outstanding Wine Program
Press, St. Helena, CA
La Toque, Napa, CA

Outstanding Wine, Beer, or Spirits Professional
Ted Lemon, Littorai Wines, Sebastopol, CA
Steve Matthiasson, Matthiasson Wines, Napa, CA

See all the semi-finalists, including dozens from around the Bay Area. Congrats to everyone.

Adios Jeff and Susan Mall of Zin Restaurant

jeffsusan
Jeff and Susan Mall (courtesy of their Facebook page)

Former Zin Restaurant owners Jeff and Susan Mall are heading south of the border.

The couple will be taking over food and beverage operations at Rancho Pescadero in Baja, Mexico. The resort, located south of Todos Santos, includes the Garden Restaurant. The Malls have been involved in consulting with the resort since 2010, and will bring their dedicated farm-to-table philosophy to the property.

Don’t get your hankies out just yet, though. The couple will be splitting their time between Mexico and Sonoma County, with plans to return north during the hot summer months.

Both Jeff and Susan have always had a deep love for Mexico. Jeff grew up on a ranch in California’s Central Valley, enjoying good Mexican food almost from the day he was born. He began visiting Mexico in the early 1980s when his family would take annual vacations to the tip of Baja, staying in towns like Mulegé, La Paz, Loreto, and a much sleepier-than-it-is-now Cabo San Lucas.

Jeff earned his degree in Hospitality Management at the University of San Francisco and then went on to graduate from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Jeff moved back to Northern California and worked with a number of chefs and mentors including Jeremiah Tower, Bradley Ogden and Anne Gingrass.

 

Susan grew up in San Diego and her summers were spent in Ensenada, a seaport town about an hour south of the border. Her early culinary memories include warm bolillos, turkey tortas and carne asada in Tijuana. Classically trained, she worked at such culinary institutions as Zuni Café and Campton Place Hotel, both in San Francisco, and the Border Grill in Los Angeles. Susan has also taught classes, done restaurant consulting and run her own catering company.

 

Dinner will be served seven nights a week and Chefs Jeff and Susan Mall’s new menus will celebrate the bounty of Baja and traditional Mexican flavors, made light and bright with locally grown ingredients. Menu items will include Posole de Pescado y Mariscos, Crispy Sopes with Smoked Marlin Salpicon, and Local Goat Cheese and Mushroom Chile Rellenos with Salsa Colorado.

In addition, Jeff and Susan will offer cooking classes, local food tours, and plan to institute a robust guest chef program, hosting top international talent for culinary weekends and events several times a year.

Sonoma County’s loss is certainly Rancho Pescadero’s gain. We will miss the couple’s great enthusiasm for local products, incredible warmth and generosity, and rich culinary talents greatly. The good news is now BiteClub can go visit them in sunny Mexico.