Beer Country: Beer Pairing

Irish lox topped salmon over red potatoes, leek fondue, and ale butter, by Hopmonk Tavern executive chef Billy Reid, served with Hopmonk Dunkelweizen. (photos by Christopher Chung)

No one needs to tell Jeff Bull that cold beer is hot for creative food pairings. The Santa Rosa home brewer and self-admitted craft beer geek lists among his favorite sudsy combos a spicy, mocha porter with German chocolate cake.

He waxes poetic on his bullseyebrewco.com blog about the pleasures of partnering beer and cheese, beer and maple bacon Kettle chips, beer and ice cream, and beer and oysters. He also posts uncommon culinary hints from regional craft brewers (“Ever hear that Girl Scout cookies and beer go well together? Oh, HELL YES. Ninkasi Brewing Devil and Tagalongs”).

“Pairing beer with food is one of my favorite activities,” Bull said. “I love the diverse flavor profiles offered by both.”

Bull and his brethren are just the type of microbrew lovers helping fan the flames of an ever-increasing array of beer dinners in Sonoma. These days, local brewmasters hold court like the fanciest winemakers, sharing their skills as cicerones (beer sommeliers) to show others how an artful IPA can enhance spicy duck wings dunked in fried Maytag blue cheese, and how a soulful stout can be a sophisticated star alongside a burger adorned in truffles and foie gras and drenched in demi-glace.

cc0303_Beer_CheeseSoup.jpgHopMonk Tavern owner Dean Biersch knows well the charm of beer and fine food, often arranging one-night-only, fancy, suds-soaked meals at his pubs in Sebastopol and Sonoma. With 18 beers on tap and dozens of bottled microbrews, he likes to challenge his chefs for inspirations such as a Lagunitas Brewing Co. Petaluma Pils partnered with bitter apple and corn croquettes.

Part of the fascination, he said, comes from the often-layered flavors of artisanal beers, which can boast notes ranging from pear and lilac in Healdsburg’s Bear Republic Brewery Co. Cher Ami, to caramel and coffee in Sonoma’s Carneros Brewing Co. Negra IPA.

“The range and quality of American craft beer in 2015 is amazing,” Biersch said. “Most are hybrids based on tradition, but featuring unique yeasts and hop varietals. This has created new and open territory for chefs interested in beer. It’s the combination of unique pairings and flavors, the relaxed tavern or beer garden setting, shared tables and the personal stories from brewers, chefs and owners that make beer dinners so fun and informative.”

Beer Country: Those Big Bottles

Growlers sit on a shelf behind the bar at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (photo by Christopher Chung)

In the 1800s, when a man wanted to enjoy a few beers outside his local tavern, he didn’t stock his cellar with bottled beer. Instead, he asked the barkeep to fill a growler with fresh draft beer to go. Growlers usually took the form of half-gallon galvanized buckets, delivered to patrons by “bucket boys” who carried the pails through the streets on notched poles. this custom was called “rushing the growler.”

No one knows for sure the origination of the term “growler,” but one popular theory is that the vessels were named for the sloshing sound the beer made inside the buckets during transport.

Whatever the reason behind the name, growlers are experiencing a revival in taprooms all over Sonoma. Not only do they allow beer lovers to bring home unbottled, limited-volume brews for drinking at home, the reusable glass jugs are eco-friendly, too.

Patrons pay a small fee for an empty growler — usually $6 to $8 — which they can bring back to the brewery for discounted refills. (Once emptied, a growler should be rinsed immediately with warm water. If it’s been left to sit for a couple days, warm water with just a touch of dish soap will do the trick.)

If a growler’s seal — typically a flip-top lid — is left intact, the beer will stay fresh in the refrigerator for a week or so. Once a growler has been opened, it’s best to finish off the beer in a day or two.

Nearly all Sonoma brewers offer growlers in their taprooms, including Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery, Lagunitas Brewing Co. and Petaluma Hills Brewing Co. in Petaluma; Fogbelt Brewing Co., Russian River Brewing Co. and Third Street Aleworks in Santa Rosa; Carneros Brewing Co. in Sonoma; Woodfour Brewing in Sebastopol; Bear Republic Brewing Co. in Healdsburg; and St. Florian’s Brewery in Windsor.

So why not grab a growler?

Beer Country: Brew Your Own Beer

For 36 years, The Beverage People co-owner Nancy Vineyard has seen the home-brewing industry rise and fall repeatedly, first in the mid-1990s and then in the early 2000s.

“It always goes up when the economy goes down,” she said. “People don’t have jobs, but they want to continue to have beer.”

The Santa Rosa retail and mail-order store offers classes in home brewing, as well as kits that provide all the key equipment and ingredients for beginners to get started. a standard kit runs about $100.

“That’s just the hardware,” she said. “But with your own water, and saved beer bottles, that will make a 5-gallon batch of beer with an ingredient kit, which costs between $35 and $55.”

The entry-level kit includes a book by Byron Burch, “Brewing Quality Beers,” which is required reading for anyone just starting out. The key components of the kit are the fermenter (a 6.8-gallon plastic bucket with a lid), a 5-gallon carboy for secondary fermentation, plastic fermentation lock, siphon hose, bottle brush, bottle filler, crown caps, capper, odor-free cleaner and no-rinse sanitizer.

Vineyard suggests starting out with a pale ale or IPA ingredient kit, because most people know how those beers are supposed to taste. Included are the malt ex- tract, hops and yeast.

Home brewers also need a large stockpot for cooking the ingredients (20- to 32-quart), Pyrex measuring cups and cases in which to store the bottles out of the light.

Relatively new on the scene is Beer Belly Brewing Supply in Windsor. Owner Christal Farias, a Healdsburg native, opened the shop in June 2014, after she and her friends found themselves unable to buy last-minute sup- plies on Sunday, their favorite day to brew together. So she opened her own store and began hosting Beer Camp, an evening of beer, food and a talk given by a professional brewer ($35-$45).

The next Beer Camp is May 19 at 6:30 p.m., with Fogbelt Brewing.

• Beer Belly Brewing supply, 371A Windsor River Road, Windsor 707-837-5750, beerbellybrewingsupply.com
• The Beverage people, 1845 Piner Road, Suite D, 707-544-5729, thebeveragepeople.com

Small Batch, Freshly Hatched

Entrants in the first Sonoma County Home Brewer’s Competition will show off their suds at a May 23 tasting at the Veterans Memorial Building in Petaluma, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. It’s too late to enter the competition, sponsored by the Petaluma Downtown Association, but attend the tasting and be inspired to brew a batch for the 2016 event.

The $25 ticket includes a logo glass and 20 tastings, plus opportunities to learn about home brewing, equipment and ingredients. There will be food trucks and music, too. Attendees vote on their favorite beers and the top 10 are judged by an expert panel. The ultimate winner will brew his or her recipe at 101 North Brewing Co. And Have It Distributed Locally.

• Veterans Memorial Building, 1094 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-780-2939, petalumadowntown.com

Beer Country: Need a Pliny Alternative?

(photo by Christopher Chung)

For aficionados, two beers put Sonoma on the map: Lagunitas Brewing’s ubiquitous flagship India Pale Ale (IPA) and Russian River Brewing’s Pliny the Younger, a triple IPA that’s available just two weeks a year. But as local craft-beer drinkers know, there’s a lot more to Sonoma brewing than these two superstars. Impress yourself and your friends with these other local beers that are nearly as good (or perhaps even better).

Pliny the Elder, Russian River Brewing
If you can’t make the trip or don’t want to wait in line for Pliny the Younger, the sixth-best beer in the world, according to Beer Advocate, the eighth-best brew isn’t a bad consolation prize. Pliny the Elder, a classic, hoppy double IPA, is one of the most coveted beers around, and it’s right in our backyard, Santa Rosa.

Blind Pig, Russian River
With as much hype as the Plinys get, Blind Pig, a less intense, well-balanced and flavorful IPA, tends to get overlooked. Many hop heads, including this one, prefer Blind Pig over the hoppier Plinys.

Saison, Henhouse Brewing
There aren’t many California breweries whose flagship beer is a saison, or farmhouse ale, but Petaluma’s HenHouse excels at the style. Its signature brew is a rich, golden color that’s light in body, with less of the tartness that puts some drinkers off of saisons. It’s a great first saison for people new to craft beer. HenHouse doesn’t bottle or have a taproom, but its beers are widely available on draft in the North Bay.

Death & Taxes, Moonlight Brewing
A mainstay of the Sonoma craft brew scene, Santa Rosa’s Brian Hunt produces this signature dark lager that has the flavor profile of a dark beer, but without the heaviness of a stout or porter.

Berliner Weisse, Woodfour Brewing
The selection changes often at this Sebastopol brewery, but this tart, low- alcohol wheat beer is a mainstay. At approximately 3 percent alcohol by volume, it’s a great midday pairing with lunch from the brewpub at The Barlow.

Old Adobe Stout, Petaluma Hills
This dry stout should please fans of Guinness, and it’s a great reason to visit Sonoma County’s most laid-back, cozy taproom.

Beer Country: Hot Kids on the Block

Fraser Ross pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company. (Conner Jay)

Russian River, Bear Republic and Lagunitas may have put Sonoma craft brews on the map, but a new crop of up-and-comers is shaking up the local brewing scene with gutsy, adventurous offerings to quench just about any thirst.

Paul Hawley, left and Remy Martin of Fogbelt Brewing. (photo by Kent Porter)
Paul Hawley, left and Remy Martin of Fogbelt Brewing. (photo by Kent Porter)

Fogbelt Brewing Co.
THE CROSSOVER
It takes a lot of beer to make great wine, or so the saying goes, and no one knows that better than Paul Hawley and Remy Martin. Martin is the son of veteran Fetzer Vineyards winemaker Dennis Martin, and Hawley’s family owns Hawley Winery in Dry Creek Valley.
After brewing at home together for more than a decade, the friends opened the Fogbelt taproom in Santa Rosa in 2013.
Their beers, named for coast redwoods, are balanced and intriguing, from the crisp atlas Blonde to The Brotherhood, a slightly sour Belgian-style dubbel aged in Zinfandel barrels, to the Dyerville Giant, a red ale infused with bourbon-soaked oak chips.
• 1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3400, fogbeltbrewing.com

Seth Wood, co-owner at Woodfour Brewing Company in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (photo by Crista Jeremiason)
Seth Wood, co-owner at Woodfour Brewing Company in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (photo by Crista Jeremiason)

Woodfour Brewing Co.
THE TERROIRISTE
Seth Wood began brewing while attending culinary school in New York, and became so enamored with the process that he moved to Fresno to study fermentation science and enology. In 2013, he opened the Woodfour brewery and restaurant in Sebastopol, with partner Olav Vier.
Wood brings his culinary and winemaking experience into the brewery, creating food-compatible beers that express a sense of place through hyper-local ingredients and native fermentations.
Woodfour’s beer menu includes a range of styles, from the funky-fruity Sour Farmhouse ale to Coffee and Pie, a rich, dark ale made with Taylor Maid Farms espresso and Sebastopol blackberries.
• 6780 Depot St., the Barlow Center, Sebastopol, 707-823-3144, woodfourbrewing.com

Brothers and co-owners Jake, left, and Joel Johnson at 101 North Brewing Company in Petaluma. Not shown, John Lilienthal. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
Brothers and co-owners Jake, left, and Joel Johnson at 101 North Brewing Company in Petaluma. Not shown, John Lilienthal. (photo by Beth Schlanker)

101 North Brewing Co.
THE INTERPRETER
Like most craft beermakers, Joel Johnson was a home brewer who dreamed of going pro. He landed his first brewing gig in 1998, at Healdsburg’s Bear Republic Brewing Co., and went on to become its head brewer.
After a few false starts, Johnson launched Petaluma’s 101 North Brewing Co. in 2012 with his brothers, Jake and Joey, along with lifelong friends John Brainin, John Lilienthal and Anthony Turner.
101 North’s brews are full-flavored and high in alcohol, yet expertly balanced. Its full-throttle interpretations of traditional beer styles include the amber-colored Heroine IPA, the malt-forward Stigmata American Red Rye and the unfiltered naughty Aud Imperial Stout. 101 North hopes to open a taproom sometime this summer.
• 707-778-8384, 101northbeer.com

Husband and wife owners Aron and Amy Levine at St. Florian's Brewery (photo by Conner Jay)
Husband and wife owners Aron and Amy Levine at St. Florian’s Brewery (photo by Conner Jay)

St. Florian’s Brewery
THE HERO
Rather than turning heads with experimental brews, St. Florian’s has attracted an enthusiastic following with delicious traditional-style beers. The Windsor brewery and taproom, named for the patron saint of firefighters, was launched in 2013 by Windsor fire captain and home brewer Aron Levin, with his wife, Amy.
California Common, St. Florian’s flagship beer, is a steam lager that’s clean and refreshing, with a malty body and caramel notes. The brewery also makes a flavorful brown ale and two excellent IPAs: Flashover American and Belgian Style Flashover.
Along with producing heroically good beer, the Levins donate 5 percent of the brewery’s profits to fire-related and community-based charities.
• 7704-A Bell Road, Windsor, 707-838-2739, stfloriansbrewery.com

Steve Doty at Shady Oak Barrel House. (photo by Christopher Chung)
Steve Doty at Shady Oak Barrel House. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Shady Oak Barrel House
THE OUTLIER
If you’re looking for a West Coast-style IPA or British Porter, Shady Oak Barrel House is not for you.
Steve Doty, a former winery lab technician who launched Shady Oak in 2014, has a love of brewing on the fringe and a deep fascination with Brettanomyces, a wild yeast that brings a magical sort of funk to beer.
Shady Oak’s Bokonon farmhouse ale is a dry, tart celebration of “Brett.” Most of the Santa Rosa brewery’s offerings are similarly sour, barrel-aged and encouraged to undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle for added complexity.
• 707-595-8958, shadyoakbarrelhouse.com (not open to the public)

Beer County: Beer Fanatic

Bartender Nate Hanes serves up the best beers the Fenn brothers can find at Beer Craft in Rohnert Park. (Photo by John Burgess)

Every single day, rain or shine, J.T. Fenn finds a new beer he’s absolutely in love with. Some, of course, become more lasting relationships. Others are passing dalliances, but each gets a pin-up shot on his Facebook page nonetheless.

In Sonoma, hops don’t necessarily take a back seat to grapes. Clubby gathering spots like Fenn’s BeerCraft in Rohnert Park and Rincon Valley Tap Room & Bottle Shop in Santa Rosa are beer meccas, stores that stock a broad range of craft beers. Their taprooms are places to geek out about artisanal hops, sour ales and the latest micro- micro-brewery, and coveted brews are snapped up faster than you can say, “Pour me another.”

Fenn recently scored a few bottles of Lagunitas Brewing Co. High Westified Imperial Coffee Stout. Made with local coffee and aged in whiskey barrels, it’s much coveted. ”Limited, hurry!” Fenn posted on his Facebook page, creating some additional urgency. With more than 11,000 social media fans, Fenn’s page is an immediate link to current finds, the store’s 14 taps and current beer community riffs.

In Santa Rosa, Michael Scalet, co-owner of Rincon Valley Tap Room & Bottle Shop, susses out the latest and greatest craft brews from far and wide for his Wednesday Night Flights, with five different brews served each week. Throughout the week (the taproom is closed on Mondays) there’s live music, trivia and a rotating lineup of more than a dozen taps, ranging from stouts to saisons. Scalet also offers small-batch wines at the shop.

BeerCraft and Rincon Valley Tap Room & Bottle Shop both have monthly memberships that include hard-to-find brews and limited allocations. Membership does have its privileges.

 

Beer Country: Sticky Fingers

(Sonoma County Museum)

These resinous flowers that give beer its bite were planted along the Russian River, on land now largely devoted to Chardonnay and pinot noir. Until it collapsed in the early 1950s, the hop industry had a century-long run, earning Sonoma the title “Hop Capital of America.”

“In the summers, before I was 12, I picked hops,” recalled Joe Rochioli Jr., 81, owner of Rochioli Vineyards on Westside Road near Healdsburg. “I hated it. Picking hops is the most tedious thing there is. You pick every little berry off and try not to get leaves in it. My mother wanted us to pick 100 pounds a day.”

The vines were trained on 10-foot-high poles, and later on trellis wires between the poles. When the hop buds (also called berries) were ripe, in late August or early September, the cluster-laden vines were cut from the poles and the flowers plucked from the vines. It was itchy, sticky work, as the resin from the hops stuck like glue to the hands, arms, face and clothing.

(photo by John Burgess)
(photo by John Burgess)

The fresh hops were dried in kilns, pressed and bagged for shipment to breweries across the country. During Prohibition, growers found a lucrative market in Europe, where crop failures had brewers begging for the bitter buds. Hop kilns dotted the Russian River Valley landscape, none more prominently than the Walters Ranch hop kiln, built in 1905 and now home to Hop Kiln Winery.

One purchaser of Sonoma hops was Grace Brothers Brewing, founded in 1897 by Frank and Joseph Grace. They acquired the Metzger brewery, near what is now Railroad Square in Santa Rosa, and after a fire, rebuilt the brewery. It survived through Prohibition, with several closings and reopenings, shuttering for good in 1966. At the peak of production in the 1930s, according to Santa Rosa historian Gaye LeBaron, Grace made one of the top three beers in California, along with Acme in San Francisco and Buffalo Brewing Co. in Sacramento. Today the Hyatt Vineyard Creek Hotel occupies the former Grace Brothers site.

The Sonoma hop market bottomed out in the mid-1950s, attributed to the fading American taste for bitter beers, diseased vines, less expensive mechanized farming in Sacramento, Oregon and Washington state, a booming apple and prune business, and the post-Prohibition resurrection of grape growing.

Still, a few hop plots remain, including Moonlight Brewing owner Brian Hunt’s quarter- acre patch in Fulton, and the Sonoma County Historical Society’s planting next to Hopkins River Ranch in Healdsburg. The hop industry has faded in Sonoma, yet the region’s brewing future appears to be limitless.

Beer Country: Richard Norgrove Jr., Bear Republic Brewing Co.

Richard Norgrove Jr., of Bear Republic Brewing. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Of all the Sonoma brewers, no one can stake a claim to “Renaissance man” quite like Richard Norgrove Jr. at the Bear Republic Brewing Co.

His resumé: U.S. Army veteran, firefighter, race car driver, bike builder, graphic designer (creator of all the Bear labels), Healdsburg Parks and Recreation commissioner, Little League coach and, in his free time, brewmaster.

“Today they might diagnose a kid like that as having ADHD, but back then they just called you ‘hyperactive,’ ” he said.

“I guess if I wasn’t doing all this, I’d go crazy. I just have to be going 110 mph.”

Back in 1995, when he and his father, CEO Richard Norgrove Sr., founded Bear Republic Brewing and Restaurant with $1 million, “Ricardo” had already paid his dues as an amateur home brewer and builder of custom home-brew kits for sale at The Beverage People in Santa Rosa. He used his welding experience with Salsa Cycles to construct the brewery. He had also taken classes in the brewing program at Seibel Institute of Technology in Chicago and apprenticed for free with Brandon Moylan at Moylan’s Brewing in Marin.

Norgrove, 46, still laughs at how he stumbled onto the Bear’s flagship Racer 5 India Pale ale), which today accounts for more than 80 percent of sales.

“It came out of a mistake,” he said. In 1998, when he was the solo brewer and working on a batch of the house pale ale, he accidentally threw in the hops for Red Rocket IPA. “All of a sudden you’ve got something that’s crazily unbalanced. But I made a rule with myself years ago that I would call it what it is. So we put it out to the public as Springtime Strong ale and about five versions later, it became Racer 5.”

Bear Republic would eventually expand with distribution in 35 states. But over the past four years, the company has scaled back to 22 states, producing around 70,000 barrels annually. Now, with 14 brewers underneath him, Ricardo is more interested in the motto, “Let’s be stronger in our backyard.”

Outgrowing the brewpub in Healdsburg six years ago, the Norgroves opened an additional production facility in Cloverdale.

“We’re not the little fish anymore and we’re not the big fish. We’re in the middle, so we’re getting eaten from both sides,” Norgrove Jr. said. “The little guys are eating at us and the big guys are chomping on us. So my long-term goal has always been to be that brewery that when somebody thinks of Sonoma County long term, they think of that family brewery as Bear Republic.”

Beer Country: Know the Lingo

Feeling left out, or worse, ostracized, when those around you are talking beer smack? Here’s the lingo that will earn you some beer street cred.

ABV: Alcohol by volume, shown on a beer’s label. Budweiser is 5 percent abv, Russian River Brewing’s Pliny the Elder is 8 percent, and Pliny the Younger is 11 percent. The higher the number, the more potent the beer. Pace yourself.

ALCOHOL ABUSE: Spilling beer

BITCH SLAP: Mixing a six-pack in a store.

BOMBER: 22-ounce beer bottle

BOTTLE CONDITIONED: An ale that continues to ferment after bottling, adding to the carbonation. Think Champagne.

CHURCH KEY: Bottle opener

CICERONE: The beer equivalent of a wine sommelier; a person with certified expertise in beer and the serving of it.

DEAD SOLDIERS: Empty beer bottles.

DONG: Draft Only, No Growlers

FOUR C’S: The Pacific Northwest hops varieties Cascade, Centennial, Chinook and Columbus, grown on a large scale for craft brewers with flavors that tend to be aggressively bitter and with grapefruit, pine resin and/ or floral notes. If you know Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, you know Cascade hops.

FRESH HOP: Most hops are dried after picking, making for better storage and transportation. Fresh- hopped beers use the cones soon after they’ve been picked, and are said to have more flavor.

GROWLER: A jug or other glass container meant to be refilled at brewpubs and taken home. Beer to go.

HANG: Lingering bitterness on the finish.

HEAD RETENTION: The stability of a beer’s foam, as measured in seconds, by the time required for a 1-inch foam layer to collapse.

HUMULUS LUPULUS: Scientific name for hops, the flowers of vines that give beer its bitter aroma and flavor. There are more than 100 hops varieties in the world.

IBU: International Bittering Units. The higher the number, the more bitter the beer. Light lagers typically have 5-10 IBUs; India Pale Ales can have IBUs up to 70.

LACE: The lacelike pattern of foam sticking to the sides of a glass of beer.

LAWNMOWER BEER: Thirst-quenching suds gulped after strenuous physical activity. It doesn’t necessarily have any flavor.

LUPULIN THRESHOLD SHIFT: An inside joke at Russian River Brewing Co., for when one drinks so much hoppy beer the hops no longer taste bitter.

MACRO BEER: Fizzy yellow water produced in a large, corporate beer factory, usually delivered by Clydesdale horses.

NOBLE HOPS: The traditional European hop varieties prized for their low bitterness and clas- sic flavors and aromas, typically earthy, mossy or herbal flavor notes. If you know nothing else about hops, memorize Tettnang, Hallertau, Spalt and Saaz. Bonus points if you refer to the East Kent Golding variety as “EKG.”

SESSION BEER: One that is light enough in body and alcohol that several can be consumed in one sitting.

SKUNKED: A stale, funky-smelling and -tasting beer, usually found in clear bottles that have been exposed to ultraviolet or fluorescent light.

WEST COAST IPA: A style that originated in San Diego and is popular along the West Coast; highly hopped and with big, bold, bitter flavors.

WOUNDED SOLDIERS: Partially full, abandoned beer bottles.

Oysterpalooza!

oyterpalooza_web3
It’s time for Oysterpalooza!
And that means cracking open Memorial Day weekend with a rocking and slurping good time at Rocker Oysterfeller’s annual oyster fest (Sunday, May 24, 2015).

With more than a hint of NOLA in its soul, this celebration of the bivalve features five bands on two stages along with a mollusk-heavy menu of BBQ oysters, fried oyster po’ boys, red beans & rice, BBQ brisket, Hurricanes and much more.

Tickets are $20 in advance, $25 at the door, and kids 6-12 are $10. Find out more online at rockeroysterfellers.com, 14415 Shoreline Highway, Valley Ford, 876-1983.