Greatest Lessons from Mom & Dad

Just in time for Mother’s and Father’s Day, four locals share advice given by their parents.

“Courage,” said Manuel Azevedo, owner and executive chef at LaSalette Restaurant in Sonoma. “My parents emigrated to the U.S. from Portugal when I was 2 and my brother, Luie, was 1. My dad sold his only possessions (a milk cow and two oxen) to buy passage to make a better life for us here. So imagine selling all you have, leaving everything you know, traveling halfway around the world with two toddlers, and starting from scratch. Now that’s guts.” The chef said he’s an unabashed “Momma’s boy,” naming the restaurant after his mother, LaSalette Azevedo. “My mom does bookkeeping for me,” he said. “If you can’t trust your mom, who can you trust?”

Mary Gannon Graham is daring onstage and off, thanks to her parents. “They loved and supported me unconditionally,” the actress said of her late parents, Ed and Edna Gannon. “They believed that I could do anything I put my heart and mind to.” As a result, Gannon continues to stretch. In addition to acting in several local theater productions, she’s also a teacher for special populations, including adults with disabilities. Gannon, who lives in Sebastopol, also credits her parents for teaching her how valuable it is to have a sense of humor. “They taught me to laugh at myself, which has saved me on more than one occasion.”

No whining. That’s what Kate Jonasse’s single-parent mother, Patricia, taught her. “She was never afraid to speak her mind,” Jonasse said of her mom, who lives in Santa Rosa. “I’m grateful for how she challenged me and taught me to have a powerful work ethic. She wanted me to grow up to be a strong person.” Jonasse applies the lessons every day as owner of K-Tech Automotive in Sebastopol, an auto repair shop she opened in 2009. “I posted an ad on Craigslist offering my services as a woman-owned repair shop, and people started coming in. Many felt comfortable bringing their cars to me.”

Cameron Mauritson, chosen the 2014 Outstanding Young Farmer by the Sonoma County Harvest Fair, appreciates a particular piece of advice regularly given to him by his father, Tom Mauritson. “My father instilled the importance of developing great relationships, because they help you to grow and learn as a person,” said Mauritson, 30, the vineyard manager for Mauritson Farms in Healdsburg. “I’m thankful for my father encouraging me to step outside my comfort zone.” He added that Dad never considered a mistake shameful, but rather something from which to learn.

Tools of the Trade

Jean-Charles Boisset is at it again.

The Frenchman who restored Sonoma’s historic Buena Vista Winery and added sizzle to Napa Valley’s formerly staid Raymond Vineyards has debuted a Wine Tool Museum on the third floor above Buena Vista’s Champagne Cellars.

There, basic winemaking implements get a high-tech spotlight thanks to moving chains that parade polished shovels and wine-barrel parts before the eye. A “breast drill’ used to make holes to decant wine from barrels hangs in front of the stone walls built in 1864, joined by plow blades, pruning hooks, a carpenter’s bench, soil injectors and grape picking baskets.

Everything comes alive with the slow, deliberate movement of the tools on the chains, and a carefully choreographed synchronicity of dramatic music and near-psychedelic colored lights.

The collection was curated and installed by Philippe Berard, a winemaker in Burgundy, France, who sold his tool collection to the Boisset family in 2001. Boisset just happens to be the largest wine producer in Burgundy.

Leaving no stone unturned, Boisset hired Kyle Haraszthy, triple great-grandson of Buena Vista founder Agoston Haraszthy, as a sales ambassador.

To see the Wine Tool Museum, take a tour with a sommelier-guided tasting of four to five wines for $25. Or go straight to the museum, without wine, for $10. There is no admission charge for children accompanied by a paying adult. The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., with tours every hour.

*photos courtesy Boisset Collection

Poetry Without Pixels

Copper topped wooded type at Iota Press, an authentic letterpress printery, in Sebastopol. (photos by John Burgess)

Want to publish a book? All you need is a laptop.

But Eric Johnson prefers to do it the old-fashioned way, setting type letter by letter and cranking out pages on a press operated by hand or with a foot pedal. Some writers, poets and graphic artists find it much more expressive and satisfying to print small-edition books, posters and graphic art by hand, and Johnson’s Iota Press in Sebastopol makes it possible.

Eric Johnson prints announcements for an upcoming show on an authentic platen press circa 1930 at Iota Press in Sebastopol.
Eric Johnson prints announcements for an upcoming show on an authentic platen press circa 1930 at Iota Press in Sebastopol.

In an age when computers rule and faster is considered better, advocates of the classic letterpress have become used to being asked why they bother with it.

“I could have 3,000 ‘friends’ on Facebook, Twitter and other online platforms, but it’s the one, two or 10 who take quality time to sit down over tea that matter in the end,” Santa Rosa artist Cheryl Itamura explained. “So why not take the time to handset type, and print 10 copies of a book, or perhaps just one?”

Johnson, a poet who earned his living as a Bay Area construction worker, turned his attention to printing after his retirement 10 years ago, and started Iota five years ago.

“This is not a commercial print shop. We don’t do wedding invitations or business cards,” said Johnson, 71, who has six letterpresses and tray after tray of type in his small shop, some of it dating back to the Civil War.

“I teach workshop classes on the fundamentals of press work almost year-round. After people have taken three courses with me, I’ll let them rent time in the shop. But they have to learn how to use the presses first.

“For a writer, getting your hands into your composition is a real trip. It’s a kind of editing. You think you’ve got something that’s really well-written and then you go to the press and start setting type, and then right in the midst of it, you start rewriting.”

A Drink of the Fermented Kind

Native Kitchen & Kombucha Bar owner/chef Jasmine Dravis with a Grapefruit Smash Kombucha Elixir. (photos by John Burgess)

Sonoma has a thing for fermented beverages. There’s wine, of course, and the region has become a destination for craft-beer fanatics. Will kombucha production be Sonoma’s next claim to fermentation fame?

Made by adding a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast to sweetened tea — often yerba mate — kombucha has a light effervescence and a pleasant sweet-tart flavor. It’s also known for its healthy probiotic benefits.

Revive Drinks began brewing kombucha in Windsor in 2010, selling its beverages at local farmers markets. The company has since outgrown its digs, and will move later this year to a 30,000-square-foot facility in Petaluma that will allow for increased production and wider distribution.

“We had one requirement for moving, and that was that we stay in Sonoma County,” Revive founder Sean J. Lovett said. “That’s just a huge part of who we are. Petaluma is a great, hard-working town with a bootstrapping kind of feel. I guess you could say we relate to that.”

Thistle Meat's Steak Negimaki with a Grapefruit Smash Kombucha Elixir from Native restaurant in Petaluma.
Thistle Meat’s Steak Negimaki with a Grapefruit Smash Kombucha Elixir from Native restaurant in Petaluma.

Petaluma will welcome a second kombucha producer this summer when Native Kitchen & Kombucha Bar launches its brewing operation. “We plan to brew for ourselves, and then be in market only to other on-premise (restaurant) sites,” said brewer Joseph Dravis, who co-owns Native with his wife, Jasmine.

After spending nearly three years experimenting with test batches, Dravis said he’s close to nailing down his ideal brew: lightly sweet and with a healthy amount of acidity.

In the meantime, Native will continue serving other California kombuchas on draft and mixed into creative cocktails, alcoholic and virgin, such as the Cherry Bomb (kombucha, Maurin Quina cherry liqueur and muddled ginger with a cayenne-sugar rim) and Thai Tonic (kombucha, muddled kafir lime, ginger and evaporated lemongrass).

Teardrop Cocktails

Christopher Long of Libations Unlimited is a roving bartender who brings his drinks to various locations working from a teardrop trailer in Sonoma and Napa counties. (photo by Conner Jay)

By now, Christopher Long is used to people’s reactions when they see him. “Wow!” they exclaim, both women and men. “So sleek and handsome! So smooth! Delicious!”

Long sports a meticulously groomed beard, a fashionable ivy-style cap and a banker’s vest over his button-down shirt. But the admiration isn’t for him, it’s for his custom teardrop trailer, outfitted in gleaming wood and copper, with a full bar, kegs, beer taps and an espresso machine.

With the debut of his Libations Unlimited last year, the former mixologist at Healdsburg’s Spoonbar has become the life of many parties, parking his 6-by-10-foot trailer wherever a host with $2,500 to $18,000-plus would like.

“There have been a few tight places for sure,” Long said. “I’ve wheeled it through vineyards, gardens and fields, and once I had to back it up a narrow incline onto a small concrete slab and then rotate it 180 degrees for a pool party.”

His farm-to-glass cocktails are made with mostly Sonoma ingredients, plus herbs and edible flowers grown organically in Long’s garden in Forestville. When the bar is extended out of its trailer shell, it adds another 7 feet, giving him ample room to shake and stir to-order drinks, as well as serve high-end batch cocktails for larger groups.

In warm weather, Long likes to serve Rosemary’s Blueberry, a bright, beautiful quaff of blueberry vodka, raspberry eau de vie, ruby red grapefruit juice, lemon juice and rosemary bergamot simple syrup, garnished with Sonoma blueberries and rosemary blossoms.

In December, Long handled party libations for 800 employees of Levi Strauss & Co. in San Francisco. He’s already booked for many private events across Wine Country this summer. “It’s the ultimate tailgater,” Long said.

 

Trails for Every Tread

(photo by John Burgess)

The thing about parks with great views is that hikers often have to endure a heart-pounding climb to reach those heights.

But Sonoma’s newest gem of a park, North Sonoma Mountain Regional Park and Open Space Preserve, is different. Sure, you’ll huff and puff on the main trail inside the 820-acre park near Glen Ellen, yet there are options for those less inclined to exert themselves.

The elevation gain on the 4.5-mile main trail has numerous switchbacks through deciduous forests and across grasslands. About 2 miles in, the vista opens up to a breathtaking view of northern Sonoma Valley, the Santa Rosa Plain and several prominent landmarks, including Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, Hood Mountain and Mount St. Helena.

The preserve, located about 3 miles up Sonoma Mountain Road from Bennett Valley Road, abuts Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen, offering hikers, runners and equestrians unfettered access to both outdoor settings. Together, the conjoined parks have roughly 25 miles of trails, making it easy to get lost for the day.

Not looking for that kind of adventure? In addition to the preserve’s main trail, there’s a wheelchair-accessible vista point above the park entrance. The Umbrella Tree Trail, which is three-quarters of a mile long and leads to a lone bay tree and picnic spot with views of Santa Rosa and Bennett Valley, is another option. There also are several creekside tables in the redwood grove at the Ridge Trail footbridge.

Art Space Fit For a Party

Paul Mahder Gallery in Healdsburg. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Healdsburg is abuzz about the new Paul Mahder Gallery, an 8,500-square-foot art space that’s so like a museum that visitors often ask if there is a charge for meandering through the collections. Once Mahder welcomes them, many spend an hour or more absorbing the splendor, with no admission charge.

“This is my sacred space, where people come to be moved and to see something that touches their souls,” Mahder said. “I think artists are today’s prophets. They are the ones speaking to us about what life is supposed to be about.”

Despite its museum-like allure, the gallery sells the works at prices ranging from $350 to — get ready — $280,000. Mahder represents 27 artists from the around the world, including the late abstract expressionist Hans Burkhardt. Most of the work is contemporary and includes Mahder’s own fine-art photography.

His space gives Healdsburg a fresh art-scene cachet. There are 23 galleries to visit, from the talent-filled Upstairs Gallery quaintly tucked above the Levin & Co. bookstore on the plaza, to Mahder’s massive off-plaza, Manhattan-esque space that includes paintings, sculpture, digital images and drawings.

There are two large main galleries and several smaller viewing areas. The space is notable for its soaring black ceilings with skylights, and charcoal-stained floors Mahder spent a month and a half sanding himself, on hands and knees. It’s said to be the largest single-floor gallery in California.

Mahder, who also owns a gallery in San Francisco, has become a good new neighbor to Healdsburg, donating the new space for nonprofit events. The gallery is also available to rent for weddings, meetings and parties. Book it before what’s bound to be a rush.

The Big Easy

Pamela Rose performs with Wayne De La Cruz at The Big Easy bar and nightclub in Petaluma. (photo by Jeremy Portje)

A new venue is jazzing up Petaluma’s live-music scene, showcasing jazz and blues bands almost every night.

Located across the alley from Speakeasy Bistro (its sister establishment), The Big Easy isn’t, well, easy to spot. Its sign is nearly invisible, and the club’s interior is hidden from the view of passers-by. Even the building’s dungeon façade (it previously housed a fetish shop) is unlikely to attract much attention after dark. It’s all part of the Prohibition-era vibe: low ceilings, dim lighting and a cave-like, underground feel.

The venue features Bay Area brews on tap, local wines and a menu of tapas and small-plate fare from Speakeasy. The club’s main attraction, however, is the music, which ranges from gypsy jazz to blues. Recent acts have included southern soul artist Eric Lindell and jazz organist Wayne De La Cruz.

The club also boasts a 1957 Hammond B-3 organ, a favorite model of jazz musicians. “The only other club I know of locally that has one is the Boom Boom Room in San Francisco,” Big Easy owner Roger Tschann said.

Opening a music venue was a natural step for Tschann; in the early 1990s, he founded Grizzly Studios in Petaluma and has recorded thousands of CDs for North Bay bands.

“I’ve always wanted to have a cool little club like this,” he said, “where local and not-so-local musicians can showcase their talents.”

The Fresh Trail

Hector Alvarez backed by his farmstand sign in Fulton. (photos by Christopher Chung)

When Sonomans say “seasonal,” they could just as well say “micro-seasonal,” because every month brings a fresh wave of farm and garden growth. The rich agricultural landscape and varied climate conditions throughout the county mean something is exploding in blossoms or reaching the peak of ripeness nearly year-round. Yet spring is the most exciting time to be in Sonoma.

In May, that usually means nibbling the first juicy apricots, plums, blackberries, blueberries and cherries, and June heralds the first crisp green beans, sweet corn, meaty eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes and summer squash.

The peaches at Dry Creek Peach & Produce begin to ripen in late May.
The peaches at Dry Creek Peach & Produce begin to ripen in late May.

Dry Creek Peach & Produce owner Gayle Okumura Sullivan welcomes the first of her succulent peaches in late May and June, although her more than 30 varieties have such short ripening windows that savvy folks sign up for email alerts to learn the exact sales dates. They race to her Healdsburg roadside stand on Yoakim Bridge Road to grab the Red Havens and Snow Bites before they disappear.

Beekeeping and honey production is in Hector Alvarez’s DNA, though the owner of Hector’s Honey Farm in Fulton is also busy tending the tomatillos, cucumbers (lemon and Armenian), summer squash, sweet red onions, garlic, blackberries and other produce he sells at farmers markets, alongside pastel-blue eggs from his Araucana chickens.

This is a great time to explore the colorfully patchworked outdoors while hiking, biking and horseback riding in meadows and on mountainsides decorated in golden fairy lanterns, gorgeously aromatic Sonoma sage, chaparral pea and trumpet-shaped redwood lilies that morph from snow-white to deep purple and burgundy over their few months in bloom. The abundant farmers markets are delicious stops for farmstead cheeses, just-baked bread and local wine.

The Sonoma County Farm Trails guide is a handy resource for those seeking boutique producers and purveyors, such as Petaluma’s Free Range Provisions & Eats (try the smashed pea and prosciutto sandwich), McEvoy Ranch (olive oil) and Petaluma Pie Co. (gooey mushroom and goat Gouda pot pie). The guide details when products are in season in Sonoma and includes notifications of special events, tastings and demonstrations. Find it at farmtrails.org/find-sonoma-grown.

Cinnaholic Coming to Santa Rosa

Cinnaholic Vegan Bakery coming to Santa Rosa
Cinnaholic Vegan Bakery coming to Santa Rosa
Cinnaholic owner Shannon Radke is bringing her vegan cinnamon rolls to Santa Rosa
Cinnaholic owner Shannon Radke is bringing her vegan cinnamon rolls to Santa Rosa

As if the gooey, sugary cinnamon roll couldn’t get any more decadent, Berkley-based Cinnaholic takes it one step further — mix and match frosting and toppings.

Think fro-yo meets the bakery case.

Santa Rosa is slated to be one of its next outposts, serving up Irish Cream frosting with pie crumbles and chocolate sauce slathered all over their vegan buns. Not into that combo? There are 39 other frosting flavors and 21 toppings ranging from marshmallows to Oreos. All of it 100 percent vegan, meaning completely animal, dairy and egg-free. (And yes, Oreos are vegan.)

So far no word on the exact location or opening date, but we’ll be looking forward to the sweet smell of fresh baked buns somewhere in Santa Rosa.