Sonoma Cutrer Vineyards 2013 Late Harvest Chardonnay
$36
Best of Show Dessert/Late Harvest wine at the North Coast Wine Challenge, it’s sumptuous and sweet, with pear, spiced apple, peach and
honey flavors. (LM)
Imagery Estate Winery 2014 Upper Ridge Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak Muscat Canelli
$26
Floral and delicately sweet — approximately 3 percent residual sugar — this wine has ripe pear and apple flavors, a dollop of honey and mouthwatering acidity that makes it ideal for light fruit desserts and mild cheeses. (LM)
J. Rickards Winery NV Los Niños Perdidos Fortified Red Blend Alexander Valley
$22
This dessert wine is juicy and sweet, black as night in color, and with Zinfandel-like hints of ripe, cooked plum, blackberry and black pepper.
It’s a good match for cigars after dinner. (VB)
Pedroncelli Winery 2009 Dry Creek Valley Four Grapes Vintage Port
$20
The name refers to the traditional Port varieties Tinta Madeira, Tinta Cao, Touriga Nacional and Souzao planted on the Geyserville estate. Wild berry, cherry liqueur, toffee, dark chocolate and baking spice mark this rich, potent dessert wine. (LM)
Devil Proof 2012 Farrow Ranch Alexander Valley Malbec
$80
A small-production wine from winemaker Jesse Katz, previously of Lancaster Estate and Roth, this is a rare example of the variety’s ability to thrive when planted in the right place. Built to age, it offers concentrated layers of wild blackberry and truffle, soft tannins and balancing acidity. (VB)
Imagery Estate Winery 2012 Sonoma Valley Barbera
$39
Rounded, silky tannins and voluptuous dark cherry and berry fruit make it a pleasure to drink. Just 600 cases were made and the wine sold out after it won the Best of Show Red award at the North Coast Wine Challenge. Look for the 2013 vintage in spring 2016. (LM)
Marimar Estate 2011 Don Miguel Vineyard Russian River Valley Syrah-Tempranillo
$45
This marriage of 80 percent Syrah and 20 percent Tempranillo from a cool climate offers white pepper and wild anise aromas and layers of blueberry, game meat and more of that pepper, succulent and savory at the same time. (VB)
Muscardini Cellars 2010 Sonoma County Tesoro Red
$49
A robust blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s structured and high-toned, with herbal cherry, raspberry, cigar box and
peppery spice. It’s enjoyable now and has the bones to get better with time in the bottle. (VB)
Trione Vineyards & Winery 2011 Henry’s Blend Alexander Valley Red Wine
$54
Named for winery founder Henry Trione, who died this year at 94, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec is balanced, supple and nicely integrated, with bright cherry, cassis and plum flavors and firm tannins for cellaring. (LM)
Balletto Vineyards & Winery 2014 Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir
$18
Fresh strawberry aromas and flavors dominate this very fruity wine, which also has bright citrus and spice notes, finishing soft and juicy. Best of Show Rosé, North Coast Wine Challenge. (LM)
Charles Heintz Vineyards Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir
$19
A lovely wine with juicy strawberry and watermelon aromas and flavors, and with a gentle citrus tang. It’s crisp and refreshing enough for
sipping on a warm afternoon or evening, and also has a subtle tannic bite that makes it a fine partner with food. (LM)
Kokomo Winery Pauline’s Vineyard Dry Creek Valley
Grenache Rosé
$24
A consistent favorite of Grenache-based rosé fans, this stainless steel-fermented wine has juicy strawberry and watermelon flavors, supported
by lithe texture and minerality. (VB)
Lynmar Estate 2014 Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir
$20
This crisply complex rosé is spring-like and fresh in pineapple and strawberry, a snapshot of dried herb on the back palate. Structured and
dry, it has enough body to stand up to a range of foods, and should be enjoyed accordingly. (VB)
Pedroncelli Winery 2014 Dry Creek Valley Dry Rosé of Zinfandel
$12
With strawberry and cherry flavors that are lipsmacking yet remarkably dry (as in not sweet), this fun-to-drink wine shows Zinfandel’s spiciness and vibrant fruit flavor. It’s utterly delicious and a tremendous deal. (LM)
Guy Fieri’s downtown Santa Rosa restaurant, Tex Wasabi’s (515 4th St Santa Rosa, 707-544-8399) has reopened after a brief closure.
The celebrity chef’s “rock-n-roll sushi barbecue” joint closed unexpectedly in mid-November citing plumbing issues. Pamela Spiegel, a representative for the restaurant confirmed that “after a brief closing for repairs, the restaurant has reopened.” No further details were given.
The closure was the second since its opening in 1999. Housed in a historic block of in downtown Santa Rosa, the restaurant closed for 19 months after a ruptured sewer pipe resulted in severe water damage to the restaurant in 2009. Tex Wasabi’s reopened in 2011 with significant interior upgrades.
A second Sacramento-based Tex Wasabi’s restaurant closed in 2013. Guy Fieri operates two Johnny Garlic’s restaurants in Sonoma County, as well as restaurants in New York City, Baltimore, Atlantic City and Las Vegas.
There’s always a great new restaurant opening somewhere in Sonoma County, and this year was no exception. 2015’s lineup includes Michelin-worthy restaurants, fast-casual pizzerias, a vegetarian drive-thru, barbecue spots galore and even a neo-Jewish/Korean spot. All of these 2015 restaurant openings, however, share one thing in common: Awesomeness.
The “healthy” fast food alternative created by Andy and Rachel Berliner of Amy’s Kitchen is focused on an all-vegetarian (and vegan/gluten-free friendly) menu that includes double stack veggie burgers, chili cheese fries, milkshakes, burritos, pizza and salads that are good for the planet and a whole lot better for you than traditional fast food. The most popular item, not surprisingly, is the flagship Amy Burger ($4.29 with cheese), with freshly made buns, onions, lettuce, cheddar cheese, pickles, meatless patties and Fred Jr.’s secret sauce. (Insider info: Fred Jr. and Fred Sr. are the R+D team for Amy’s Kitchen that helped to develop the Amy’s Drive Thru menu.) “It’s fun to look at people’s faces. They’re so happy,” said Rachel Berliner. “This is food that even though it’s meatless, you don’t miss the meat,” she said. The (literally) million dollar question: Where and when will they expand? Judging by the still-lengthy lines at the drive-thru fans are coming back for more, and more, and more. More restaurants are in the works, but no word on exactly when. 58 Golf Course Dr. West, Rohnert Park. Open daily 10a.m. to 10p.m.
Ahi Tuna with macadamia snow at Valette in Healdsburg, CA
There’s a reason why people spend hundreds of dollars for a meal — to delight every sense, one at a time. Showcasing the best local products, well-studied technique and creative execution from pan to plate, Valette delivers on that promise. A gathering spot for the who’s who of Healdsburg, this upscale-yet-approachable restaurant is the namesake of Chef Dustin Valette, a longtime Charlie Palmer/Dry Creek Kitchen toque. Dishes are elaborate and carefully thought out to include a mix of textures, flavors, colors and culinary intrigue, so prepared for plenty of surprises. The best bet is to immerse yourself in the chef’s “Trust Me” tasting menu — a guided tour through four (or more) dishes on the menu. At $15 per course, you’ll get the most bang for your buck.344 Center St., Healdsburg, (707) 473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com. Dinner service daily from 5:30p.m., lunch Friday and Saturday from 11:30a.m. to 2p.m.
Fish and Chips at Santa Rosa Seafood Raw Bar and Grill Photo: heather Irwin
For seafood in Sonoma County, it’s hard to beat this boat-to-table restaurant. An expansion of Santa Rosa Seafood’s retail shop, this casual cafe serves up destination-worthy fish tacos, fish and chips, and tuna ceviche along with more upscale classic seafood dishes like seafood cioppino, petrel sole piccata, grilled swordfish and North Beach style linguine with clams. This is the kind of fresh seafood you wish you could find at the Coast, but rarely do. Prepare to be hooked at first bite. 946 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, (707) 579-2085. Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday, santarosaseafood.com.
Bird and The Bottle, a new Stark Reality Restaurant in Santa Rosa, CA
Popular Sonoma County restaurateurs Mark and Terri Stark’s newest venture, Bird and The Bottle, is a marriage of East and West brought together by fire and schmaltz. Here, dishes like smoked black cod schmear and chicken skin cracklings fried in chicken fat (schmaltz) with Nashville hot sauce ($4) commingle with congee-style cheese grits, mac and cheese or buttermilk fried chicken. It’s a menu that not everyone gets, but the strange mash-up somehow works, with bold flavors, dishes that take a few risks, yet with the rib-sticking comfort qualities that the Starks’ restaurants have in spades. A great cocktail lineup and $1.5 million interior make it a favorite meet-up spot. 1055 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, (707) 568-4000. Open Sunday-Thursday, 11:30a.m. to 9:30p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:30a.m. to 10p.m.
Short Ribs with Polenta at Hazel Restaurant in Occidental. Photo Heather Irwin.
Two blisteringly hot wood-fired ovens are the muscle of Jim and Michele Wimborough’s Occidental restaurant, Hazel. Left by the previous owners of long-time French restaurant, Bistro des Copains, the ovens are being pressed into service for everything from house made sourdough loaves to whole braised branzino, perfectly-cooked pizzas, and every so often, pastry chef Michele’s chocolate chip cookies. Already being hailed as a new “West County classic”, the couple have quickly endeared themselves to the community with a mix of Mediterranean and California cuisines. Great weekend brunches as well. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 5p.m. to 10p.m.; brunch 10a.m. to 2p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 3782 Bohemian Hwy, Occidental, (707) 874-6003, restauranthazel.com.
Local, comfort classics with a French twist are the signature of this cozy Petaluma bistro. Here, everyone knows everyone or, if they don’t, the bistro tables lend themselves to casual conversation and knowing nods of approval as a lusty plate of short ribs arrives. Most of the food (and wine) is sourced from within 20 miles or less, giving diners a true taste of the bounty of the county. Best bets include mushroom and truffled bruschetta cream canapés and Sonoma County terrine, along with cabernet-braised short ribs. 140 2nd. Suite 100, Petaluma, (707) 981-8228. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. for lunch; happy hour 3:30 to 6:30 p.m.; dinner from 5 p.m, bistro100petaluma.com.
Persona Pizza will open in downtown Santa Rosa in March 2015
This bespoke fast-casual pizzeria features a small wood-fired oven that cooks your pizza at 800 degrees in about 90 seconds. Created by World Pizza Champion Glenn Cybulski, the dough is hand-stretched to order, and uses “00” Caputo flour (what the pros use). Serious bases of marinara, pesto, “bianca”(olive oil and garlic), and Margherita can be topped with pepperoni, Sopressata, meatball, anchovies, prosciutto, bacon, seasonal local veggies, pine nuts, caramelized onions, arugula, blue cheese and three types of mozzarella. Go for the winner of the World Pizza Competition in Napoli, the Chipotle Chicken, loaded with mozzarella, roasted chicken, chipotle sauce and fresh pico, its a bit gimmicky, but ends up being seriously addictive. OMG burrata salad (that’s fresh mozzarella with creamy ricotta in the middle), beets, arugula and vinaigrette. 701 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.
KFC (Korean Fried Crack) at Dick Blomster’s Korean Diner, a pop-up restaurant in Santa Rosa, at Don Taylor’s Omelette Express. Photo: Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat.
Follow your nose to this funky Korean pop-up where kimchee and KFC (Korean Fried Crack) are served up along with Kobe beef hot dogs (with pickled daikon and kimchee aioli, natch) and short rib mac and cheese. The sign goes up at 5p.m., outside Don Taylor’s Omelette Express after the pancakes and burgers are put away for the day. There are plenty of kid-friendly dishes that make this an experience for the whole family, along with fried PB&J with pop rocks for late-night diners. 112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa,(707) 869-8006. Open Wednesday through Sunday from 5p.m. to 10(ish)p.m., dickblomsters.com.
Burnt Ends at Sauced Barbecue in Petaluma, California
The new Sonoma aroma might just be wood-smoke and brisket. This year, barbecue restaurants popped up like gophers on a golf course. Turn around and another chef has spent a month in Austin, Texas learning the secrets of barbecue masters, and is now touting his secret sauce and philosophical approach to brisket. Call it an obsession.
With a “non-denominational” approach to regional barbecue, KINSmoke tops our list, featuring everything from St. Louis style pork ribs and Texas links to Alabama white sauce, Carolina mustard sauce and Texas brisket. With a serious approach to sides, they’re the all-around spot to get your ‘cue on, but be forewarned that when the brisket or ribs are gone for the day, they’re gone. 304 Center St., Healdsburg, 473-8440, kinsmoke.com, open daily for lunch and dinner.
Pig Ears at Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma, California. Photo Heather Irwin
The return of Terry’s Southern Barbecue (5979 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park) is cause for celebration among its many fans for fall-off-the-bone ribs, hush puppies, catfish and Momma’s Boss Sauce, and sweet peach cobbler. Sauced (151 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma,saucedbbqandsprits.com) has the unicorn of West Coast barbecue, burnt ends, along with a monster-sized sweet potato with pulled pork, bacon, sour cream, chives and pretty much the kitchen sink of other goodies. Glen Ellen Star Chef Ari Weisswasser spent nearly a month in Austin learning the fine art of barbecue and has brought that back to Sonoma’s Rossi’s 1906 with a brand new menu. Working with owner Max Young, they’re calling it “Texas barbecue in a California context,” featuring authentic Texas BBQ with a Cali twist, like brisket and oysters. But its the brisket that Weisswasser has really put his heart and soul into. (401 Grove St., Sonoma, 343-0044, rossis1906.com). Juicy Pig: Recently-opened in Guerneville, with lots of promise from Chef Ruben Gomez. 16440 Fourth St., Guerneville, 604-7120. Newest to the lineup is Texas-style BBQ spot Cochon Volant, where Chef Rob Larman serves up ribs, brisket and pork shoulder sliced by the pound. 18350 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 509-5480, cochonvolantbbq.com.
Basilico Cucina Italiana, $$
Just-opened in Santa Rosa, this trattoria is the second from the owners of the critically-acclaimed Cucina Paradiso in Petaluma. Fresh pastas and real-deal Northern Italian entrees that go well beyond the usual spaghetti and meatballs fare.4776 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa, (707) 539-0260.
12/15/2013:D9: Sheila Groves-Tracey, the new owner of Twin Oaks Tavern in Penngrove, previously worked for several decades booking bands in nightclubs, festivals and theaters.
PC: New owner of Twin Oaks Tavern, Sheila Groves-Tracey, pours drinks for her regular customers in Penngrove on Monday, November 25, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
The nearly 100-year-old Twin Oaks Tavern in Penngrove has been purchased by HopMonk Tavern owner Dean Biersch. The co-founder of Gordon Biersch Brewing Company and restaurants and HopMonk Taverns.
Biersch takes over the roadhouse property from music booking agent Sheila Groves-Tracey and her business partners, who purchased Twin Oaks in 2013.
“In my mind the Twin Oaks is a ‘heritage’ hospitality site – one of the last roadhouse, tavern, honky-honks on the Old Redwood Highway,” said Biersch, reached by phone.
He plans to keep the name and ambiance that Twin Oaks Tavern (5745 Old Redwood Hwy, Penngrove) is known for while renovating and upgrading the space to include a new dance floor, expanded outdoor patio, and new kitchen. A licensing change will allow for families and children to enter the tavern to eat. Another major draw includes a lineup of 16 draft beers.
“It’s been running for 91-years continually, and that’s pretty cool. I’ve never considered (making it) another HopMonk,” he said. “Our biggest focus is to be a part of this great property, close to other craft breweries in Petaluma with a great beer, music and bar atmosphere,” Biersch added. He is co-owner of three HopMonk Taverns in Sebastopol, Sonoma and Novato.
Twin Oaks Tavern (Photo courtesy of Twin Oaks Tavern)
Groves-Tracey will stay on to book the musical acts which include R&B, soul, classic rock, blues and bluegrass musicians. She previously booked musical talent for Petaluma’s Mystic Theater and in 2013 for Napa’s Bottlerock.
“She’s a booking legend north of the Golden Gate,” said Biersch. When Groves-Tracey and her partners purchased the tavern, they did some minor upgrades, but most notably added a music lineup that’s reinvigorated the historic property once a favorite with local ranchers. “We brought back the cowboy vibe,” she said.
Though Groves-Tracey declined to disclose the terms of the sale, she said that Biersch had approached her with interest in buying the bar. “The timing was right, the person was right, and Dean is a perfect fit to take Twin Oaks to the next level,” she said. “We brought it back to life, but now he can take it further. I’m really excited to see what he does,” she added.
The roadhouse is slated to close temporarily in late January 2016 for the initial remodel, re-opening in the spring, according to Biersch. Other upgrades will happen incrementally, he said.
“We may paint, but we’ll never change the neon or anything else about the classic exterior,” said Biersch, “We just want to make sure we’re stewarding this great property.”
Anthony Beckman Balletto Vineyards & Winery
Russian River Valley
Beckman gave up a job as a news journalist in Washington, D.C., and Philadelphia for a job in San Francisco with a biotech website. That led to his exploration of Sonoma wine and yet another career change: winemaking. He earned an enology degree at UC Davis and worked his way up to become Balletto’s winemaker in early 2009. His talent put two wines on our Top 100: a lovely 2014 Rosé of Pinot Noir and a silky red Pinot Noir.
Ana Keller Keller Estate
Petaluma Gap
Trained in biochemistry, Ana Keller’s move to winemaking was a natural. A passion for plants didn’t hurt. Keller (seen in photo with her husband, Diego Tomda) works with her winemaking mate, Alex Holman, to produce brisk, focused Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Keller’s Petaluma Gap estate vineyard east of Petaluma, where wind and fog from the Pacific Ocean preserve the fresh acidity inherent in the grapes. The Keller 2012 La Cruz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, a Top 100 selection, reflects how fruit grown in a chilly climate can be transformed into elegant, food-friendly wines.
Steve Law MacLaren Wine Co.
Sonoma
Born in Scotland, a resident of France for 10 years, and well-versed in French wine, Law brought a European sensibility to MacLaren, a small winery in Sonoma founded in 2007 by him and his wife, Heather.
Their focus is on cool-climate Syrah, although his 2014 Sauvignon Blanc from Dry Creek Valley knocked our socks off to earn a Top 100 spot.
Brian & Janice Schmidt Estate 1856
Dry Creek Valley
“Who are these guys?” 2015 North Coast Wine Challenge judges asked when they learned they had awarded 97 points to the Estate 1856 Tzabaco Rancho Vineyard Duvall’s Prospect Cabernet Sauvignon from
Dry Creek Valley. The “guys” are the husband and wife team of Brian and Janice Schmidt; his family has farmed a portion of the former Tzabaco Rancho property in Dry Creek Valley for six generations, with Brian
helping his family transition to vineyards. Janice cut her winemaking teeth for 20 years at Jordan Vineyard & Winery, where she worked with its winemaker, Rob Davis, and legendary consultant Andre Tchelistcheff.
Steven Urberg Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards
Carneros
Behind every executive winemaker — Bob Iantosca in this case — is a hands-on, day-to-day winemaker who doesn’t always get the credit deserved. Urberg is that guy, taking over most of the winemaking decisions at this sparkling- and still-wine producer. After 20 years with Gloria Ferrer, Iantosca has taken on more marketing responsibilities, but not before becoming the most-awarded sparkling wine maker in the U.S. Urberg, a Detroit native with a chemistry background, has filled Iantosca’s shoes admirably, as evidenced by his two bubblies that cracked the Top 100.
No Wine Country is too far for Nick Goldschmidt. The winemaker’s home base is Healdsburg, and his Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from Alexander and Dry Creek valleys are typically terrific
(two made our Top 100).
Once the Sonoma Crush is over, Goldschmidt hops on an airplane for New Zealand, Chile, Argentina or some other far-flung country, as a
consulting winemaker for 26 wineries. It’s a brutal life of travel, winemaking and sales calls across two hemispheres, but his five kids are
mostly grown, and Goldschmidt seems to thrive under the pressure. He was once asked, “How do you get it all done?” “I don’t do any of it very well,” he replied with a laugh.
He lied.
A New Zealand native, Goldschmidt moved to Sonoma full time in 1989 and was hired as associate winemaker at Simi Winery under Zelma Long and Paul Hobbs a year later. He became Simi’s chief winemaker in 1991, and later rose to vice-president positions at Allied Domecq Wines USA and Beam Estates.
Convinced that Alexander and Dry Creek valleys are ideal for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Goldschmidt’s own Goldschmidt Vineyards brand focuses on those varietals (there’s also a rogue Napa
Cab). Under his Forefathers label comes an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Other Goldschmidt brands include Trig Point (Sonoma Coast), Fidelity (Alexander Valley), Chelsea Goldschmidt (Alexander and Dry Creek valleys), Katherine
Goldschmidt (Alexander Valley), Boulder Bank (New Zealand) and Chacras (Argentina).
This doesn’t count the wineries for which he
consults. Whew.
Open for a little more than a year, Hamel Family Wines is one of Sonoma’s most stylish — and ambitious — wineries. Evidence of that ambition? Owners George and Pam Hamel brought in Martha McClellan, one of Napa Valley’s most accomplished winemakers, to work with their winemaker son, John B. Hamel II, and their estate-grown grapes.
McClellan and her husband, longtime Harlan Estate winemaker Bob Levy, have their own Napa Valley label, Levy & McClellan, a tiny-production, Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine that is being offered by a Napa Valley fine-wine shop for $600 a bottle. Her winemaking
skills are also behind the success of the Checkerboard Vineyard and Vineyard 7 & 8 Napa brands.
While living in Germany, McClellan graduated from Geisenheim University, the only American woman to complete a degree in enology and viticulture there. She worked six vintages (1995-2000) at Harlan Estate in Napa Valley, which led to similarly prestigious positions and consulting work throughout Napa Valley. At Hamel, she produces Sauvignon Blanc, rosé, Isthmus (a Bordeaux-style red blend) and our Top 100 pick, an estate Zinfandel.
They all show the finesse of an experienced winemaking hand. That Hamel looked to a Napa winemaker doesn’t mean its wines will automatically be outstanding, or better than anything else produced in Sonoma. It means that the winery found the right fit.
Cinsault , Lagrein, Mourvedre, Tannat, Teroldego … not your everyday grape varieties in Sonoma, but they’re a big part of Joe Benziger’s life.
As winemaker at Imagery Estate Winery, Benziger never met a wine grape he didn’t like. Sure, he produces more recognizable wines, too, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, yet it’s the oddballs he embraces, from grapes he says are too good to get swallowed up in blends. They deserve to stand on their own.
Take Barbera. The workhorse grape in the Northern Italy region of Piedmont, it produces wines with high acidity and crunchy tannins. Imagery’s version is a bit softer and fruitier, with full body and deep, rich flavors, yet retains the expected refreshing acidity. Sodelicious is the 2012 Imagery Sonoma Valley Barbera that it won the Best of Show Red award at the 2015 North Coast Wine Challenge. Benziger’s 2012 Pine
Mountain-Cloverdale Peak Teroldego, another obscure (for here) variety, won a gold medal.
Case production of his wines is typically limited, and most are sold in the Glen Ellen tasting room. They come adorned with labels bearing contemporary art commissioned by Imagery art curator Bob Nugent.
In June 2015, Benziger’s family sold Imagery and the flagship Benziger Family Winery, also in Glen Ellen, to San Francisco-based The Wine Group. Joe is expected to continue making the Imagery wines, and keep the Sonoma diversity drive going.