Ralph Morgenbesser of Ralph’s Courthouse Classics has been selling hotdogs at Old Courthouse Square for 24 years and was selling them during the 123rd annual Luther Burbank Rose Parade & Festival held Saturday in downtown Santa Rosa. May 20, 2017.(Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
For four years, Ralph Morgenbesser’s Courthouse Square Classics hot dog cart was parked in his garage, gathering dust. The iconic weenie wagon (and its owner) were fixtures in Santa Rosa’s Courthouse Square for over 30 years.
He called his simple fare “soul food,” but it was as much his quick humor and stories that made a much-loved lunchtime oasis for lawyers, bankers, merchants and, often, those down on their luck.
In 2020, Morgenbesser hung up his apron and retired the cart, becoming a relished footnote in Santa Rosa’s culinary history. At 79, he was ready for retirement.
A few months ago, one of Morgenbesser’s former employees-turned-entrepreneur approached him with a plan.
Milli Cannata, now a real estate agent, wanted to buy the well-loved cart and turn it into a business incubator for kids. Turns out the old dogcart was about to learn some new tricks.
Ralph Morgenbesser of Ralph’s Courthouse Classics hot dogs and Milli Cannata of SLYC Kidz pose in front of the iconic cart that he donated. (Photo: Milli Cannata)
Instead of selling it, Morgenbesser donated his self-contained hot dog business to Cannata’s charity, SLYC Kidz (Sustainable Living Youth Co-op), which offers after-school mentorship and teaches business skills to young people — the same skills Cannata learned from Morgenbesser as a teen.
“When I was a teenager and walking around downtown looking for jobs, he hired me and taught me how to run a business,” said Cannata of Morgenbesser’s other downtown food business, Santa Rosa Subs (closed in 2007).
“Opportunities like (working for Ralph) kept me off the streets,” she said.
A new west county home
Last Monday, with Morgenbesser’s blessing, the cart was transported to the Monte Rio Theater, a historic movie and music hall that’s one of the few entertainment venues in rural west county.
Though it needs significant work to get it re-permitted and in working order, the cart will be displayed at upcoming summer events to raise awareness and funds for the project.
“On Thursday nights, we’ll have it out for music events,” Cannata said. The first event will take place June 20, with future gatherings through the summer.
Hopefully Morgenbesser will make a guest appearance or two.
“I’m so glad to get him out sharing his love and passion. He just has this way of lighting up a room,” she said.
Glad to see his old partner find new life, Morgenbesser recounted fond memories of his years under the redwood trees of Courthouse Square.
“I was the biggest thing to happen to Santa Rosa since they got a ZIP code,” he said of his food businesses. He’s clung to his blustery “I’m walkin’ here” Brooklyn accent since moving to California in 1967. But like many New Yorkers, his direct tone masks a marshmallow-soft heart.
“The cart was a sanctuary, and some days I gave away more food than I sold,” he said.
Ralph Morgenbesser, owner of Ralph’s Courthouse Classics in Santa Rosa, chats with his regulars during the lunch hour, Friday, April 14, 2006. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
Helping those in need
As a longtime advocate for addiction recovery, Morgenbesser felt a kinship with people who faced challenging situations and frequently gave food to anyone hungry. For years, he shuttled people to recovery centers and 12-step meetings.
“I had troubles in my youth,” he said. “I wanted to give back what I learned. I always told people there was a life after drugs and alcohol. There’s always recovery.“
Even in retirement, old friends and patrons frequently recognize him around town.
“I gotta tell you, I see people, and they tell me stories about how I helped them,” he said.
Soon to turn 83, Morgenbesser said he’s been enjoying swimming, playing dominoes with friends and walking his dogs (the canine kind) — but can’t help advocating for the cart’s future hot dog vendors.
“Don’t be a meanie; buy yourself a weenie,” he said, echoing his favorite Courthouse Square sales pitch.
The Boarder Benedict with chorizo, onions, avocado on an English muffin with Hollandaise sauce from the Verano Cafe Thursday, June 13, 2024 in Sonoma. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Living in a culinary mecca like Sonoma is great and all, but sometimes you just want a plate of hash that’s not covered in edible flowers and dehydrated sumac.
Local restaurateurs Beronica Peres and Carlos Rubio get it. Their recently opened Verano Cafe sits quietly wedged between an auto repair shop and McDonald’s along Highway 12 in the unincorporated town of El Verano. It’s not a spot most people would give a second glance. And that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
The Verano Cafe menu was designed with Sonoma residents in mind. An “if you know, you know” sort of place mostly discovered by word of mouth.
“My husband and I were thinking that in Sonoma, there is no breakfast place,” said Beronica Peres, who manages the casual breakfast, brunch and lunch restaurant in the former Animo space with Rubio.
While there are certainly a handful of breakfast restaurants in Sonoma — including the Sunflower Caffe, Basque Boulangerie, El Huerto, Valley Bar & Bottle and others — the point isn’t lost on locals who have long lamented not having heartier diner-style fare that caters to a broad swath of local tastes.
Paula Ledesma serves up pancakes to a family on a road trip from Georgia at the Verano Cafe, Thursday, June 13, 2024, in Sonoma. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The extensive list of choices includes everything from pancakes and fried chicken with Belgian waffles to chilaquiles, burgers and a croque-monsieur. It’s as diverse as the population of Sonoma County.
What sets Verano Cafe apart from standard diner fare, however, is a dedication to using locally sourced ingredients.
More than just lip service, Peres rattles off products and vendors, including bread from Basque Boulangerie and tortillas from nearby El Molino Central. She’s proud of the fact that corned beef for the hash is made in-house, along with pastrami for their Reuben, tangy rémoulade for the fish and chips and lush Hollandaise sauce blanketing their lineup of Benedicts.
“Our menu is very Sonoma-style,” Peres said. They get the local ethos of farm-to-table dining without being overly precious with their food.
As veterans of the local restaurant scene, Peres and Rubio know what locals like to eat. They also own Jacob’s restaurant on Broadway, focusing on Italian pasta, pizzas and risotto — another off-the-beaten-path local favorite.
The couple were also part-owners of Maya Restaurant and La Hacienda, and have well-oiled front-of-house experience. You’ll get that as soon as you walk in and are greeted warmly. Peres has hired several tried-and-true cooks from Jacob’s to run the large, open kitchen, and watching them hustle to put out dozens of plates at a time is impressive.
There are less than 10 tables inside, but the space feels airy and comfortable with homey wooden tables and chairs that make it feel lived in. Outside tables with broad umbrellas are highly coveted. Service is reliably friendly, and the wait times aren’t excessive, even on crowded weekends. Grab a fresh mimosa (passion fruit is a favorite) or a well-made cup of coffee while you wait.
As the front door swishes open and closed with orders headed for the patio, it is clear that Peres and Rubio have hit upon a winning combination of well-made food that doesn’t need silly frills to attract a grateful local audience.
Tourists are welcome at Verano Cafe. However, in a county with plentiful upscale dining options, this Sonoma secret seems like a respite from gourmet acrobatics and sky-high prices.
Corned Beef Hash with potatoes, onion, bell pepper, cheddar and eggs from the Verano Cafe, Thursday, June 13, 2024, in Sonoma. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Best bets
Corned Beef Hash, $21: Made in-house, this corned beef is crisp and flavorful, topped with a poached egg and microgreens (a little unnecessary, but they add some tasty greens). Potatoes, onions and Cheddar cheese round out the mix, along with a heavy dose of green peppers. Once you spear the egg, the soft yolk coats the whole mess deliciously. Easily the best dish on the menu.
Lemon Pancake, $12: Plate-size pancakes are fluffed up with cottage cheese, eggs and lemon for a unique take on the traditional stack.
Boarder Benedict, $18: Chorizo is the surprise guest on the traditional eggs Benedict with slices of avocado and creamy Hollandaise. Served with seasoned potatoes.
Lemon Crepes, $11: Neatly folded crepes are filled with rich lemon mascarpone and berries, topped with a strawberry drizzle. The generous portion is not overly sweet, though we would have liked more lemon zing.
Reuben, $17: Buttery sourdough toast is a departure from the usual rye. Housemade pastrami, sauerkraut and actual Gruyere (rather than the usual Swiss swap-out) makes the sandwich. A side of rémoulade sauce is a must for dipping crusts and fries.
18976 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-931-6837, veranocafesonoma.com. Open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Seating is first-come, first-served.
The Point Fire burns actively on the west side, or the right flank of the fire, above Lake Merlo, Sunday, June 16, 2024. The area is just south of Lake Sonoma. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
In Sonoma County’s first major fire of the season, the Point Fire northwest of Healdsburg has scorched 1,207 acres in a span of three days.
Burning just south of Lake Sonoma, the Point Fire has destroyed two structures, and one firefighter was injured while battling the blaze, according to Cal Fire. The Point Fire has been 40% contained as of Tuesday afternoon, June 18.
As residents evacuate and firefighters work tirelessly to battle the blazes, The Press Democrat’s photographers have been on the front lines to report on and capture the fast-moving wildfire, fueled by recent hot weather, high winds and dry brush.
Click through the gallery to see some of the striking images.
Movies under the stars are one of many great summer pleasures in Sonoma County. Whether it’s a beloved classic or modern blockbuster, the season offers the opportunity to relax and enjoy your favorite films in favorite haunts like wineries, parks and luxe hotels.
We’ve put together a list of some of our favorite summer showings to make organizing your calendar easy. Some have a fee, but many are free! So grab your family, friends and a blanket or two, and make a date for some Hollywood magic in the great outdoors.
Summer on the Square
June 17, 24; July 1, 8, 15, 22
Now through July, every Monday night is movie night on Courthouse Square in downtown Santa Rosa. A combination of new and old family-friendly films, up next on the schedule is the 2023 release of The Little Mermaid, on June 17. Summer on the Square is going old-school for its final night, July 22, with the 1977 film Star Wars: Episode IV – A New Hope. Summer on the Square will be held from 5-8 p.m. on Mondays through July. See the entire movie lineup here. Food and drink will be available from local vendors. Admission is free.
Courthouse Square, Fourth Street and Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, downtownsantarosa.org
Movies in the Park
Aug. 16, 23, 30; Sept. 6, 13
Just as Summer on the Square winds down, Movies in the Park — Howarth Park, that is — kicks into high gear. Movies play on the lower lawn by the Land of Imagination Playground. There’s a seating area up front for those with blankets to sit on. Guests are welcome to bring a chair, but will have to sit further back or to the sides. The free movie series kicks off Aug. 16 with the animated film, Migration. Movies start on Fridays at dusk, around 8 p.m., with various pre-movie activities on the lawn starting an hour before the showing. Food vendors, such as Lucky Pop Kettle Corn and Buns y Garnachas, will be available each night. See what’s playing through September here.
630 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa. 707-543-3298, srcity.org
Franco-American Movie Night
July 13
Let the family-friendly flick Ratatouille take you on a culinary journey through Paris, without leaving the lawn at DeLoach Vineyards in Santa Rosa. Bring your own blanket or low lawn chair. Wood-fired pizza can be purchased from the Oakville Grocery food truck and wine will be available by the bottle or glass. Doors open at 7 p.m. for wine and food purchases, and the movie starts at 8:30 p.m. Tickets, which include a complimentary bag of popcorn, must be purchased by July 7. $20 for adults, children under 12 are free. Reserve a spot on Tock.
AVFilm is hosting two drive-in movies at the Cloverdale Municipal Airport this summer. (Courtesy of AVFilm)
Movies Under the Stars
June 21, July 13, 19; Aug. 3, 16; Sept. 6, Oct. 25
The Alexander Valley Film Society (perhaps better known as AVFilm) has a nostalgic lineup of free movies on this year’s Movies Under the Stars schedule. The Wizard of Oz, The Sandlot and Hocus Pocus, are just a few of our favorites.
Showings are offered select Friday and Saturday nights through October. Movies Under the Stars takes place in assorted locations throughout Healdsburg and Cloverdale, including Healdsburg Plaza and two drive-in movie theaters at the Cloverdale Municipal Airport. Bring your own blankets and chairs; movie theater goodies will be available for purchase. All movies begin at sundown.
There’s a handful of outdoor movie showings in Petaluma to add to your summer calendar. All showings are free and take place at Lucchesi Park. Sing kicks off the series on June 21. View the 2024 lineup here. Food and beverage vendors will be on hand.
Tuesday nights are movie nights in Windsor. Bring your own blanket or low-back chair, as showings will take place on the Windsor Town Green. All movies are free and begin 15 minutes after sunset. Barbie is the next blockbuster playing on the Town Green, on June 25. View the full schedule here.
Movies at the Green in Rohnert Park kicks off on July 6 with a double header of Finding Nemo and Finding Dory. (Courtesy Brennan Spark)
Movies at the Green
July 6, 20; Aug. 11, Sept. 28
The Green Music Center at Sonoma State University offers a multitude of fun summer events. While there’s been a lot of chatter about this summer’s concert offerings by The Beach Boys and UB40, you don’t want to forget about the four Movies at the Green.
The season kicks off on July 6 with a double header of Finding Nemo and Finding Dory. Guests are welcome to pack a picnic to enjoy on Weill Lawn. Admission to Movies at the Green is $5 for adults and free for kids 12 and under. View the Movies on the Green schedule here.
1801 East Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park. 707-664-4246, gmc.sonoma.edu
Summer Movies in La Plaza Park
Aug. 6, Sept. 21
Movies begin at sunset, so it’s a good idea to arrive at Cotati’s La Plaza Park a bit early to get comfortable. Up next is Paw Patrol: The Mighty Movie on Aug. 6. All showings are free. Learn more and view the schedule here.
Old Redwood Highway and West Sierra Avenue, Cotati. 707-796-7301, cotaticity.org
Cinema in the Courtyard Series,
June 24, July 8, 22; Aug. 5, 19
Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn will serve up dinner and a movie this summer, only better. Pair classic flicks like Jaws and Casablanca with delicious menu specials, cocktails and wine from Farmhouse Inn’s casual eatery, Farmstand. Be sure to save room for the housemade s’mores. (You can thank us later.)
Movie nights at Farmhouse Inn take place twice a month, starting at 7:30 p.m., on Wednesday nights. Details are included on the hotel’s weekly activities calendar and on social media. A different local winery will be on hand pouring for every screening. Movie nights are complimentary for hotel guests; the public is welcome, but must have a dinner reservation at Farmstand to join in on the fun.
A rotating roster of local wineries will be pouring at The Madrona in Healdsburg for this summer’s Movies on The Lawn series. (Courtesy The Madrona)
Movies on The Lawn
July 10, Aug. 7, Sept. 4, Oct. 2
All you have to do is show up. The folks at The Madrona in Healdsburg have thought of everything you might need for a stellar cinematic experience under the stars. Along with classic flicks and an outdoor tasting lounge with pours from local wineries, there’s cozy blankets and tufts to elevate the lawn-style seating.
Movie nights typically take place on the first Wednesday of the month. The next film on tap is Labyrinth, on July 10, and Flambeaux Wine will be on hand pouring. See the full lineup here. Each ticket includes admission, headphones, popcorn, a snack and a complimentary glass of wine from a rotating roster of local wineries. There will also be a chance to win a variety of prizes, ranging from wine tastings and hotel stays to assorted local products. Tickets are $50 per person. Reserve Movies on The Lawn tickets on OpenTable.
Want to spend the night? The code MOVIENIGHT offers guests 30% discount off hotel rooms on movie nights.
Savor your Sonoma County backyard on the silver screen during a showing of American Graffiti at Gundlach Bundschu winery in Sonoma. Famed director George Lucas filmed scenes from the nostalgic masterpiece in downtown Petaluma. Hot Summer Movie Night takes place from 6-10 p.m. on Aug. 3. Bring a blanket. The $15 entry fee includes popcorn and candy for the whole family. Kids under 5 are free. Food and wine by the glass and bottle will be available for purchase. Reserve tickets on Tock.
What began as a pop-up caviar lounge in 2021 from French Laundry chef Thomas Keller is transforming into a full-fledged restaurant focused on Asian-inspired cuisine. The former Regiis Ova Caviar & Champagne Lounge in Yountville, which showcased Keller’s own brand of caviars, has become RO Restaurant and Lounge.
While caviar will still have a strong showing at the intimate indoor/outdoor Yountville destination, Chef de Cuisine Jeffery Hayashi has imagined a debut menu that includes Hokkaido Uni Toast, Artichoke Custard infused with almond wood-smoked pork belly, Wolfe Ranch BBQ brined in shio koji (a Japanese marinade) and Shave Ice, a Hawaiian favorite topped with huckleberry and dried hibiscus syrup. The restaurant menu is inspired by Hayashi’s roots in Hawaii, with California touches.
“We’ve listened to our guests looking for a local spot that highlights some of the best Asian flavors,” said Keller in a press release. Hayashi served as the Head Chef Candidate for Team USA Bocuse d’Or in 2019 and 2023 and has worked for several Michelin-starred restaurants.
Chef de Cuisine Jeffery Hayashi. (David Escalante)The restaurant menu is inspired by Hayashi’s roots in Hawaii, with California touches. (David Escalante)At RO Restaurant and Lounge in Yountville. (David Escalante)
RO’s new cocktail menu will include a sipable version of Keller’s signature “Oysters and Pearls,” a luxurious dish of pearl tapioca with fresh oysters and caviar served at The French Laundry. For the drink, three grams of Royal Caviar are paired with butter-washed Beluga vodka and dry vermouth infused with roasted oyster shells.
Live music performances on Friday and Saturday evenings will include a rotation of Bay Area musicians.
Keller, whose French Laundry restaurant has three Michelin stars, founded Regiis Ova (“Royal Egg” in Latin) in 2017 with caviar expert Shaoching Bishop, the former CEO of Sterling Caviar and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar.
RO Restaurant and Lounge is open Wednesday through Friday from 3 to 11 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 11 p.m. Reservations are available on Resy, and walk-ins are accepted. 6480 Washington St., Yountville. More details at rorestaurantandlounge.com.
The Mountain Top Tasting at Kunde Family Winery in Kenwood. (Timm Eubanks/Kunde Family Winery)
Sip in the sun this summer at one of Sonoma County’s stunning winery patios, where sun-dappled outdoor spaces give way to breathtaking panoramic views of vineyards and valleys.
Check out our roundup of six favorite winery patios in the county to try this summer, from enchanting mountain-top tastings to coastal spots with Pacific views.
Healdsburg
Bacchus Landing
Home to more than a half dozen small, family-run wineries pouring their wines in five separate tasting rooms, each has lovely outdoor patio space—plus, there are bocce courts and places to picnic.707-395-0697, bacchuslanding.com
Elegant wines and views for miles at MacRostie Winery. (Courtesy MacRostie Winery)
MacRostie Winery
Enjoy photo-worthy panoramas from one of three patios at the MacRostie Estate House. The winery’s Signature Experience includes five wines, with a focus on single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. 707-473-9303, macrostiewinery.com
Jenner
Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery
On clear days, the back deck at this coastal winery offers dreamy views of the Pacific Ocean, coastal redwoods, and lush meadows. Wine tastings are accompanied by small bites prepared by the estate chef.707-847-3460, fortrossvineyard.com
Kenwood
Kunde Family Winery
Enjoy vineyard and water fountain views from the valley floor on the Kinneybrook Patio. Or head up to the summit: The mountain top tasting is totally worth it, with views for miles. 707-833-5501, kunde.com
The famous sunset at Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Santa Rosa
Paradise Ridge Winery
It’s hard not to fall in love with the views from this winery patio, with a sprawling large-scale outdoor sculpture garden and some of summer’s best live music, the popular Wine & Sunsets series. 707-528-9463, prwinery.com
Sonoma
WALT Wines
Just steps from the historic plaza, WALT touts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards throughout California. Our favorite here is the wine and chocolate pairing, with the delightful sugar rush coming courtesy of Windsor’s Fleur Sauvage Chocolates. 707-933-4440, waltwines.com
Beer lovers from around the world stand in line for their chance to taste Pliny the Younger at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Museum of Sonoma County’s new show, “On Tap: Sonoma County Hops and the Beer Revolution,” juxtaposes the story of hop growing in the county with the history of Sonoma’s craft brew revolution.
The two industries peaked at opposite ends of the 20th century, with local hops nearly disappearing just a few decades before the surge of interest in artisan beer making, which started in 1976 with New Albion Brewery, widely acknowledged as the nation’s first craft brewery.
The exhibition follows widely divergent threads of the industry, from the stories of Chinese workers growing and harvesting hops in the early 1900s, to labor unrest in the 1930s, to today’s landmark craft brewers and small-scale hop growers, who have made Sonoma County into a hot bed of beer-making innovation.
Erin Shea mows weeds between hop rows at Blossom and Bine in Santa Rosa. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)Sack of hops piled high on a farm in Fulton, circa 1990s. (Museum of Sonoma County)
“There are so many arcs to this story, and it all connects,” says museum curator Eric Stanley. “You realize how distinct and intense and important hop growing was to the county and how quickly it nearly disappeared, just as craft beer was becoming so important.”
The exhibit includes a huge, modern hop-picking machine on display (“the only one that would fit in the building,” jokes Stanley), vintage videos of the local hop harvest, and interactive sniffing stations that explore the aromatics of different hop varieties.
The museum will host talks and demonstrations over the summer, including a “Legends of Beer” panel discussion and a big tasting event outdoors in the museum’s sculpture garden on July 20.
Through Sept. 1. Museum of Sonoma County, 425 Seventh St., Santa Rosa. 707-579-1500, museumsc.org
Golden Steak Warriors fries with Old Bay seasoning, cheese sauce and steak. (Heather Irwin)
Food trucks may have rolled up into our hearts, but tent hawkers and pop-up provisions are the next frontier in ultra-casual cuisine. These creative cooks thumb their noses at tradition, change menus on a dime, and constantly experiment with new ideas.
You’ll find them at breweries and wineries, outside gyms, or wherever hungry people congregate. But don’t try to find them by phone or address; you’ve got to be on social media to catch them.
Whiz Kids
Golden Steak Warriors
Sonoma County has finally (finally!) seen the golden light of Cheez Whiz and grilled steak on an Amoroso roll, Philly-style. This husband-and-wife team pop-up at spots like Maison Healdsburg and local wineries with their oooey, gooey noshes.instagram.com/golden_steak_warriors
Golden Steak Warriors fries with Old Bay seasoning, cheese sauce and steak. (Heather Irwin)
Eclectic Chef
Half Hitch
Though officially based in Tomales, chef Amelia Telc brings her skills to The Casino in Bodega and other Sonoma County pop-up spots frequently. Korean and Chinese cuisine strongly influence the menus of the SF Mission Chinese alum, though she’s well-versed in European standards as well.instagram.com/halfhitch_tomales
Slow roasted pork bossam at The Casino’s Half Hitch pop-up. (Heather Irwin)
Underground Chinese
The Matriarch
An offshoot of fried chicken pop-up favorite Second Staff, this new iteration in their constantly morphing culinary adventures riffs on classic Chinese cuisine, including soup dumplings and gai-lan. Like all of their offerings, it’s usually a late-night thing, going past midnight. instagram.com/_secondstaff
Haute Dogs
HILO Burgers
Deeply delicious (and messy) smash burgers, chili cheese dogs, and fries are their jam. They’re mostly a Healdsburg thing, with the BloodRoot tasting room and Molti Amici as their regular (but irregularly scheduled) haunts.instagram.com/hilo_burgers
High Design
Barsace
Frequently found around Healdsburg in cahoots with HILO Burgers, hip-tastic cocktail creations feel straight out of a Wes Anderson film. Otello Tiano, the former bar director at San Francisco’s Michelin-starred Lazy Bear, garnishes his Desert Disco rum/bourbon creation with a blood-orange peel in the shape of a lightning bolt.instagram.com/barsace_
Mooving Tribute
Bayou’s Burgers and Birria
A spin-off of California-Cajun favorite Bayou on the Bay with—you guessed it—burgers and birria. Chefs Bradley and Mandy sling some serious beef, using locally raised Scottish Highland cattle. Often found at breweries or outside Santa Rosa’s Session Climbing.instagram.com/bayousburgerbirria
Winemaker Dennis McCarter is a Sonoma County native who started as a home winemaker and now produces his own label, McCarter Cellars, Tuesday April 2, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
Dennis McCarter cried when he learned that his 2022 Forchini Pinot Noir won a double-gold medal at the 2024 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. It’s not that he didn’t believe it was a well-made wine; he just didn’t expect to land a top award so soon after releasing his first McCarter Cellars wines in 2023.
“It was a shocker,” says McCarter. “You kind of have impostor syndrome, where you wonder, ‘Am I doing the right things? Do I even belong in this industry?’ But when I got the news about the award, I was like, ‘Oh my gosh, I think this solidifies it. I belong here.’”
While McCarter’s eponymous label is new to the scene, the Santa Rosa native has been making wine for more than a decade. When he was just 21 years old, a food-pairing class at Santa Rosa Junior College turned him on to wine. He got his first taste of the production side at Sunce Winery in the Russian River Valley, where he volunteered to help with everything from harvest to bottling.
McCarter purchased grapes and made his first garage wines in 2010 while working in the insurance business.
“When I introduced the wines to my friends, they went crazy,” he recalls. “Normally, when people hear ‘garage wine’ they head for the hills.”
He began entering his wines in the amateur category at the Sonoma County Harvest
Fair—and started winning awards.
He finally decided to go pro in the aftermath of the 2017 wildfires. McCarter sold his insurance agency and signed on for an internship at Vinify Wine Services in Santa Rosa, where he found a mentor in Matt Duffy of Vaughn Duffy winery.
After taking a break to study enology at SRJC, he returned to Vinify as an assistant winemaker and launched McCarter Cellars with the the double-gold-winning Forchini Pinot Noir and a Sauvignon Blanc. This year, he’ll release his first dry Gewürztraminer and the 2023 Pink*ish rosé. His wines are now carried at Bottle Barn and at several top Santa Rosa restaurants, including Grossman’s and Jackson’s Bar and Oven.
McCarter is involved in organizing events to lift up the work of other Black winemakers. He’s organizing a Juneteenth event to celebrate trailblazer Mac McDonald of Windsor’s Vision Cellars, who is now in his 80s. And when McCarter’s not talking wine, he teaches judo to underserved youth and serves on the board of the Rohnert Park Community Round Table, which helps improve relationships between law enforcement and communities of color.mccartercellars.com
The Wines of McCarter Cellars: 2022 Pinot Noir, 2023 Rose of Pinot Noir, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc and 2023 Gewurztraminer, Tuesday April 2, 2024. (Chad Surmick /The Press Democrat)
McCarter Cellars 2022 Forchini Pinot Noir, $48
A 98-point Best of Class double-gold winner at The Press Democrat’s 2024 North Coast Wine Challenge. “The compliment I get is that this is an Old World approach,” says McCarter. “It’s a bit lighter in color but with a rich mouthfeel—definitely exceeding expectations. I love it with pork chops, grilled chicken, couscous with raisins and dried cherries.”
McCarter Cellars2023 Gewürztraminer, $29
This is McCarter’s first time working with this variety, which arrived in the winery relatively early and was foot stomped, then given 24 hours of skin contact. “It’s got a rose petal aroma, lychee, and a nice little bit of pineapple on the palate. I love it with Thai food and al pastor tacos.”
McCarter Cellars2023 Pink*ish Rosé of Pinot Noir, $25
McCarter has almost sold out of his 2022 rosé and will release the 2023 soon. It’s made using the saignée method, with lovely strawberry and floral notes. “It’s a wine I’d want to enjoy at the beach or out by the pool,” he says.
McCarter Cellars2022 Sauvignon Blanc, $38
McCarter got only a ton of this fruit, and it’s special, he says, with flavors of lime, Asian pear, and gooseberry, and lovely acidity. “I think of being out at Bodega Bay, enjoying it at the beach with a plate of oysters—or fish tacos or ceviche.”
Garden fans enjoy the lavender labyrinth at Bees N Blooms in Santa Rosa. (Sierra Downey/Sonoma County Tourism)
Sonoma’s public gardens and nurseries come alive in early summer, with a bounty of blossoms both rare and recognized. Make a day of it with your loved ones — for Mother’s or Father’s Day, a special graduation or just because.
Check out some of our favorite local public gardens below, as well as a preview of the vibrant blooms in store in the gallery above.
For rare Asian plants
Sonoma Botanical Garden
Glen Ellen
Founded in 1987 from wild seeds collected on plant expeditions all over Asia, the gardens here showcase an expansive collection of species, including many native plants from California in addition to the Asian collections. A focus on conservation has long been a part of Sonoma Botanical Garden’s ethos. Through August, the Ribbit Exhibit is a whimsical and family friendly show of largescale copper frog sculptures scattered throughout the gardens, and there’s a new native plant demonstration garden, too.
A rhododendron grows along a pond at Hidden Forest Nursery near Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
For secret pathways
Hidden Forest Nursery
Sebastopol
With 2 miles of trails that wind through the 7.5-acre reserve, Hidden Forest Nursery feels like a magical secret garden—and a top nursery where gardeners can purchase rare varieties of rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, and Japanese maples. Guided docent tours are available the first and third Saturday morning of each month.
It’s a lavender wonderland at this sunny garden on the Santa Rosa plains. Bring a picnic, watch the baby geese, and wander a labyrinth planted with different varieties of lavender timed to bloom in the early, middle, and late season. The farm’s annual Lavender Daze visits, which require an advance ticket, start May 18. New this year, the farm stays open certain evenings for sunset lavender-viewing.
3883 Petaluma Hill Rd., Santa Rosa. 707293-8293, beesblooms.com
Garden fans enjoy the lavender labyrinth at Bees N Blooms in Santa Rosa. (Sierra Downey/Sonoma County Tourism)
The dreamiest lavender
Monte-Bellaria di California
Sebastopol
There is nothing quite like the purple of a lavender field in prime bloom. Monte-Bellaria considers the time through mid-June as their “green season,” and they’re open Saturdays and Sundays, usually without an advance ticket. Starting in mid-June, the “high bloom” season, you need to purchase advance-timed tickets online. It’s worth it, though—the sweeping hillside gardens are extraordinary, and there are olive groves and beehives to learn about as well.
Other than snagging an invitation to a wedding (the 5-acre ranch hosts some of the prettiest events in the county), our favorite way to experience these gardens is visiting for Mother’s Day, when the ranch opens to families for flower foraging and BYO picnics at tables set with linen cloths and surrounded by blooms. There’s also a cottage that can be booked for overnights.
Spring colors envelop John Leipsic of Larkspur and Wendy Robbins of Massachusetts as they tour the Western Hills Garden in Occidental, Tuesday, May 14, 2019. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
For community and art
Western Hills Garden
Occidental
In 2022, Hadley Dynak and Kent Strader purchased this 3-acre historic garden, first planted over 60 years ago. The couple, their friends, and local volunteers are gently remaking the spaces and bringing in new ways to gather. In May, the owners will host a series of classes on cyanotype printmaking, and earlier this spring, they paired up with Occidental foodie favorite Morihouse to offer an equinox meal of rice, green tea, tofu, and foraged herbs.
