Ted Lemon is legendary among Sonoma County winemakers, and if you’ve ever tasted Littorai wines, it’s easy to understand why.
I first learned Lemon’s story a decade ago, when I was editing the annual “20 Most Admired” issue of the industry trade magazine Vineyard & Winery Management. We’d asked a panel of top winemakers, grape growers, wine writers and sommeliers across the country to nominate their heroes among North American winemakers, and his name came up over and over.
Was it Lemon’s respect for the land and vines? His light hand in the cellar? The character of Littorai’s laser-focused Pinot Noir and Chardonnay? Yes, yes and yes.
The story
Lemon studied winemaking in Dijon, France and worked at several estates in Burgundy before moving to the Napa Valley in 1985. He worked as a consultant for local wineries, and in 1993, he launched Littorai Wines with his wife Heidi. They made their first 150 cases with purchased fruit and eventually added their own vineyards to the mix.
In 2003, the Lemons bought Gold Ridge Estate, a 30-acre property on a foggy ridgetop in Sebastopol. A passionate believer in biodynamic practices — avoiding chemicals in the vineyard and taking a holistic approach to farming — Ted planted a small vineyard at the site and brought in cows, chickens and sheep for natural soil enhancement and weeding duties.
In 2008, Littorai completed construction of its solar-powered, straw bale winery. It now produces 5,000 cases per year, made with a 50-50 split of estate fruit and grapes sourced from like-minded growers in the Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley appellations.
The vibe
There is no sign to mark the entrance of Littorai Wines, so you’ll need to drive slowly along rural Gold Ridge Road and keep your eyes peeled for the address. Once inside the gate, drive past the vegetable garden and century-old barn to reach the winery.
This is a real-deal working farm, so leave the fancy shoes at home. All tastings take place outdoors, mainly on the back patio overlooking the estate vineyard. On rainy days, guests cozy up inside a heated tent.
On the palate
Littorai makes about 18 wines each year, including many single-vineyard bottlings. Though they vary in profile, the wines share common threads of restraint and balance — showing off the vineyards rather than winemaking techniques.
The vibrant 2022 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($70) reminds me of a crisp green apple, accented with stony minerality. Among the Pinots, I’m especially partial to the 2021 Thieriot Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($100), with its aromas of raspberries and spice, and juicy, red-fruit flavors. The 2021 Hirsch Pinot Noir ($100) from the cold and windy Fort Ross-Seaview AVA is a deeper wine, with dark berry flavors and impressive structure.
Tastings ($70-$90) feature six selections, and they typically include one older vintage that demonstrates the wines’ aging potential. Bonus: Littorai wines are under allocation and sold via a mailing list, but visitors can buy them at the source.
Beyond the bottle
To get an inside look at Littorai’s farming methods, go for the sommelier-led Gold Ridge Estate Tour & Tasting ($90). It begins with a short walk to a rustic barn that serves as a drying room for stinging nettle, oak bark and other plants used in the winery’s natural vineyard sprays. There, a knowledgeable guide explains the concepts behind biodynamic and generative farming, and details how each practice benefits the land and vines. The tour continues through the Pivot Vineyard, past meadows and bubbling streams, and finishes with a seated tasting.
Tastings by appointment Monday through Saturday.
Littorai Wines, 788 Gold Ridge Road, Sebastopol. 707-823-9586, littorai.com
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, HuffPost, and Sonoma magazine. Follow Tina on Twitter @winebroad, view her website at tinacaputo.com and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.