Drinking Stories: The Role of Yeast in Winemaking

Written by Bill Swindell for The Press Democrat.

Bill Swindell’s new podcast, “Drinking Stories,” peels back the veneer of the wine, beer, spirits and cider industries.

In the first episode, Bill speaks with Kevin Sea of Santa Rosa Junior College about yeast, the Jan Brady of the fermentation process, and the important role it plays in making that sauvignon blanc taste like passion fruit.

To download the Podcast via iTunes, or to subscribe to Press Democrat podcasts, click here.

 

Review of Franchettis Wood Fire Kitchen in Santa Rosa

Written by Heather Irwin for BiteClubEats.

Two forks + one bite of polenta cake = friendship on the line.

Over a recent lunch nosh-fest my gal pal and I had nearly inhaled a plate of seared polenta with truffle porcini spread, mushrooms, arugula and tiny Peruvian sweet peppers ($14) at the new(ish) Franchettis Wood Fire Kitchen (1229 N. Dutton, Santa Rosa).

And that last bite? Things were about to get ugly between us. Fortunately she was easily distracted, and while I pushed her purse off the table, stole the final few crumbs to her horror.
(k)chetti’s spicy chicken with salsa verde and Calabrian chili paste at Franchetti’s Kitchen in Santa Rosa, California on 1/20/16. (Heather Irwin, Press Democrat).

That’s actually not at all what happened, because I’m a class act and I let her have the last bite, while secretly snarfing the rest of the crab fettucini and braised Brussels sprouts with cream and lemon olive oil ($9.75). I may have also shoved some of the spicier-than-Channing-Tatum (k)chettis’ spicy chicken (flash fried with salsa verde and Calabrian chili paste, $10) into my bag.

Chump.

Crab fettucine at Franchetti’s Wood-fired Kitchen in Santa Rosa, California on 1/16. Photo Heather Irwin

Since parting ways with Rosso, Chef John Franchetti and his wife, Gesine, have been revamping their bistro menu with a lineup of small plates, salads and entrees that, frankly, are what we’ve always admired most about Franchetti’s cooking. Each day, a lineup of specials goes onto the chalkboard, so you never quite know what you’ll experience on any given day, though the fried chicken, arancini, wood-fired pizzas, roasted olives with burrata (which made me fall in love with Franchetti’s cooking way back in 2009), and breakfast skillets are in the regular rotation.

Cauliflower mac and cheese at Franchetti’s Wood-fired Kitchen in Santa Rosa, California on 1/16. Photo Heather Irwin

Gone are the rotisseries and focus on porchetta (which I like, but was a little limiting), instead focusing on whatever the Franchettis are getting in fresh that day.
Cheesekcake at Franchetti's Wood Fired Kitchen in Santa Rosa, California. Heather Irwin

The bonus: Pastry chef Dominique Cortara rents space from the Franchettis, so her breakfast pastries and other sweets are always on the menu. Watch for her lemon cheesecake with blood orange curd ($5.75) that’s another friendship-ender.

So, just order two.

Brussels sprouts at Franchetti's Wood Fired Kitchen in Santa Rosa, California. Heather Irwin

Franchettis Wood Fire Kitchen, 1229 N. Dutton, Santa Rosa, 526-1229.
Hours: Breakfast and lunch: Monday through Friday, 9am to 2:30pm
Brunch: Saturday and Sunday: 9am to 1:30pm
Dinner: Wednesday through Sunday, 5pm to 8:30pm (last seating)
Happy hour: 4:30pm to 6pm

Overall Score: 8
Sonoma Classics From Farm to TableTrue farm to table cuisine in a casual, fun setting. Great for lunch and brunch, pizzas and breakfast.

Things to Do in Sonoma County This Weekend

Written by Crissi Langwell and Dan Taylor for The Press Democrat.

This week is packed full of things to do. Here’s where you need to be. This weekend marks the 25th annual Santa Rosa Tattoos & Blues Festival, running Friday through Sunday at the Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. Also happening is the Windsor’s Got Talent show on Saturday, and a chance to walk the red carpet in Sebastopol and watch the Academy Awards streamed live at the Rialto Theater. All this and more is in our list of things to do.

Friday, Feb. 26
Windsor’s Got Talent!: The annual talent show at the Windsor Performing Arts Center shines a spotlight on brilliant locals and their amazing feats. The show is the trademark fundraiser for Winsdor Performing Arts Academy, and will help fund musicals at the Windsor K-8 schools. The event takes place this Friday at 6:30 p.m. at the Windsor Community Center. Tickets are $15 at the door. Find out more information at www.windsorperformingarts.net.

Feb. 26-28
Tattoos & Blues Festival: In its 25th year, the annual Tattoos & Blues Festival is the longest running tattoo convention in the country. This highly anticipated event features some of the best tattoo artists around, as well as live blues music, fire dancing, body art competitions and more. Held at the Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa, doors open at noon on Friday, and at 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission is $20 for a day pass, and $35 for the weekend. Find out all the details at www.santarosatattoosandblues.com.

Feb. 26-27
Petaluma Library Book Sale: The book sale at the Petaluma Library continues Friday and Saturday, offering you a chance to fill your bookshelves at a mere fraction of a price. Friday is the last day new books will be added to the sale, and on Saturday you can get books at half price 10 a.m. to 1:50 p.m., and $2 a bagful from 2-4 p.m.. The sale starts at 10 a.m. both days, ending at 5 p.m. Friday and 4 p.m. Saturday. Find out all the details at sonomalibrary.org.

Friday, Feb. 26
The Grammar Diva: Grammar expert Arlene Miller will be at Copperfield’s Books in Petaluma this Friday to share her latest book, “Fifty Shades of Grammar.” In this guide, she reveals tips on grammar, punctuation, words, writing, education and technology. The free event starts at 7 p.m. Find out more at copperfieldsbooks.com.
Read our article on Arlene Miller here.

Saturday, Feb. 27
Explore the new Laguna Discovery Trail: The Laguna Environmental Center is inviting explorers to come check out the new Laguna Discovery Trail in Rohnert Park, or the Laguna Trail in Sebastopol. Hikers can view waterfowl, tree frogs and mammal tracks while enjoying the beauty of the Laguna. Price to participate is $30. Meet at 9 a.m. at the Laguna Environmental Center in Santa Rosa. Find out more at the Facebook events page.

Saturday, Feb. 27
Signs of Spring Hike: This Saturday, get a full dose of spring when park docent Carolyn Green leads hikers through Sugarloaf to enjoy the seasonal transformation. The 3-mile moderate hike will include new plant growth, wildflowers and many other signs of spring. Bring water and a bagged lunch, and don’t forget your binoculars. The free hike starts at the Visitor’s Center at 10 a.m. Find out all the details at www.sugarloafpark.org.

Saturday, Feb. 27
The Spirit of Us: The music and history of slavery in America will be presented in a theatrical and musical multi-media performance, narrated by Jacqueline Lawrence and accompanied by more than a dozen performers. The show is at 3 p.m. this Saturday, held at the Community Baptist Church in Santa Rosa. Find out more at www.cbcsr.org.
Read our article on this here.

Saturday, Feb. 27
Finley Crab Feed: Enjoy all-you-can-eat crab at the Finley Center in Santa Rosa this Saturday, in a delicious benefit for Recreation & Parks’ Senior Programs. The event will also include a silent auction. Cost is $50 per person. Find out more at srcity.org.

Sunday, Feb. 28
Academy Night at the Rialto: In a benefit for Food For Thought, Rialto Cinemas in Sebastopol is rolling out the red carpet on Sunday evening for a night of fun, prizes and the 88th Annual Academy Awards Ceremony on the big screens. VIP tickets are $45 and include a pre-show catered champagne reception starting at 3:30 p.m., a red carpet photo, priority seating and access to the Red Carper Viewing Lounge. General tickets are $25, with doors to the Rialto Cinemas opening at 4:30 p.m. All guests are invited to dress to impress to take part in a costume contest, and to take part in trivia games and Oscar balloting with prizes. Snacks will be available at the theater’s new cafe. Find out all the details at rialtocinemas.com.

Would you like more people to know about your event? Enter it into our online events calendar at pressdemocrat.com/events.

Other upcoming events:

Friday, Feb. 26

Steve Gillette & Cindy Mangsen: Folk duo. 7 p.m. at the Occidental Center for the Arts. $12-$15. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.

Royal Marines Band: Pipes, drums and Highland dancers of the Scots Guards. 7:30 p.m. Weill Hall, Green Music Center. $40 & up. 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

‘Next Women of Country’: Jennifer Nettles, Brandy Clark, Lindsay Ell and Tara Thompson perform at 8 p.m. Wells Fargo Center, Santa Rosa. $58-78. 546-3600, wellsfargocenterarts.org.

‘Kismet’: The Arabian Night Musical with comedy, adventure, full costumes and an 11-piece orchestra, 8 p.m. Spreckels Performing Arts Center, Rohnert Park. $16-$26. 588-3400, ci.rohnert-park.ca.us.

‘VINOLIVO’: Grand Tasting kicks off the weekend festival with food and wine tasting 7-10 p.m. The Lodge, Sonoma. $75, $85 at door. 935-0803, sonomavalleywine.com.

Rubber Soul: Beatles tribute band. 7-10 p.m. Rossi’s 1906, Sonoma. Free. 343-0044, rossis1906.com.

Saturday, Feb. 27

Bonnie Brooks: Jazz singer. accompanied by pianist John Simon, 7:30 p.m. Saturday. Sebastopol Center for the Arts. $15. 829-4797, sebarts.org.

Paddy Moloney & The Chieftains: Irish folk band. 7:30 p.m. Saturday. Weill Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $60 & up. 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Sons of Champlin & David Luning: R&B, jazz and Americana, 8:30 p.m. Saturday. Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $36. 765-2121, ticketweb.com.

Sunday, Feb. 28

‘Red Carpet Evening’: Black-tie Oscar night viewing benefits the Alexander Valley Film Society. 4 p.m. Sunday.. Clover Theater, Cloverdale. $100, $200 VIP. avfilmsociety.org.

‘The Envelope, Please’: Academy Awards show, food and drinks 4 p.m. Sunday. Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $50, $75 VIP, benefits KPCA Radio. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.

Cypress String Quartet: San Francisco ensemble performs beloved favorites, 3 p.m. Sunday. Schroeder Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $30. 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Monday, Feb. 29

Aoife O’Donovan: The folk and blues singer performs 8:30 p.m. Monday, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $16-$21. 765-2121, ticketweb.com.
View our article here.

Tuesday, March 1

‘Mother Jones in Heaven’: One-woman musical stars Mary Gannon Graham, catered dinner, 6 p.m. Tuesday, Lagunitas Brewery, Petaluma. $30, $40 at door. 778-8776, brownpapertickets.com.

Wednesday, March 2

‘West Side Stories’: 10 storytellers with true-life tales, 7:30 p.m. Wednesday, Sonoma Portworks, Petaluma. $8. 477-4416, westsidestoriespetaluma.com.

Thursday, March 3

Jerry Joseph: Singer-songwriter plays solo. 8 p.m. Thursday. $12. HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. 829-7300, hopmonk.com.

Friday, March 4

‘Velveteen Rabbit’: Actors Theater for Children. 7 p.m. March 4, Steele Lane Community Center, Santa Rosa. $5. 543-3282, actorstheaterforchildren.com.

Wine Road Barrel Tasting: 100 northern Sonoma County wineries. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. March 4. $45 for the weekend. wineroad.com.

Dana Carvey: Former “Saturday Night Live” star, 8 p.m. March 4. Uptown Theatre, Napa. $50-$75. 259-0123, uptowntheatrenapa.com.

Old Bling Dogs: : Traditional Scottish folk band performs 8 p.m. March 4. Sebastopol Community Cultural Center. $20-$25. 823-1511, seb.org.

Silver Scream Film Festival: More than 40 films, plus Q&A sessions, panel discussions. March 4-6 at Roxy Stadium 14, 85 Santa Rosa Ave., downtown Santa Rosa. $25 March 4 and March 6, $35 March 5. Festival pass, $99. silverscreamfest.com
See the article here.

‘Emotional Creature’: The innermost thoughts and secret voices of girls all over the world, 8 p.m. March 4, Burbank Auditorium, Santa Rosa Junior College, Santa Rosa. $12-$18. 527-4307, theatrearts.santarosa.edu.

Alberto Fayo Quintet: Also, Sonoma State Univeristy Latin Band. 7:30 p.m. March 4, Schroeder Hall, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $8. 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Saturday, March 5

Valley of the Moon Festival musicians: : 18th and 19th century music, period instruments, 3 p.m. March 5, Schroeder Hall, Green Music Center. $30. 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Black Brothers Band: Singing siblings from Ireland, traditional songs 8 p.m. March 5, Occidental Center for the Arts. $22-25. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.

Kingsborough: Modern twist on classic rock ’n’ roll, 9 p.m. March 5, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $10. 829-7300, hopmonk.com/sebastopol.

North Bay Make-a-Thon: Sonoma State University and North Bay iHub host a day of innovation, 10 a.m.-4:45 p.m. March 5. Sonoma Mountain Village, Rohnert Park. $35-$70. northbayihub.com.

Roller Derby: North Bay Bruisers vs. Wine Country Home Wreckers open the season, 5:30 p.m. March 5. Grace Pavilion, Sonoma County Fairgrounds, Santa Rosa. $5-$20. 273-1463, sonomacountyrollerderby.org.

Sunday, March 6

Claudia Villela & Vitor Goncalves Duo: Parlor jazz presented by the Healdsburg Jazz Festival, 7 p.m. March 6, Paul Mahder Gallery, Healdsburg. $25. 433-4633, healdsburgjazzfestival.org.

‘Life & Art of Isadora Duncan’: Dance performance and historical narrative, 4 p.m. March 6, Occidental Center for the Arts, Occidental. $12. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.

Sonoma County’s Best Food and Wine Pairings

Written by Heather Irwin for BiteClubEats.

Chefs have become the secret weapon at Sonoma wineries trying to woo your tastebuds, not simply with a bite of bread or a dull plate of cheese and crackers, but with Michelin star-worthy dishes.

In Sonoma County, more and more wineries are offering these intimate white tablecloth experiences that feel more like dining and less like swigging a glass of wine at a crowded bar. St. Francis Winery was named “Best Restaurant in America” not once, but twice by OpenTable.com readers because of its luxurious food and wine pairing experience, although it is far from alone in creating memorable Wine Country meals.

Somewhere between art and science, these winery chefs are making it their mission to create love connections from glass to plate. More than merely trotting out whites with chicken and reds with meat, these are carefully-designed matches that complement (or sometimes contrast) the fruit, acid and tannins of everything from Gewurztraminer to Petit Sirah.

So skip the water crackers and spit buckets and gear up for multi-course lineups of scallops with fire-roasted cauliflower, a Spanish tapas plate of garlic prawns, or smoked salmon bruschetta with Meyer lemons and micro greens created precisely for the wine they’re paired with. Now that’s a tasting we can get behind.

This isn’t, however, just for the one-percenters. Many are surprisingly affordable (and even a steal) for this kind of uptown activity, especially if you’re a wine club member (they’re trying to get you to buy wine, after all). Whether you walk away with a case or just a tasty experience, keep in mind that these usually aren’t full meals, but small one or two bite tastes, so you won’t walk away stuffed, but you will walk away satisfied.

Here are some of our top picks.

adobe3
Three Sticks at the Adobe, Chef Armando Navarro of El Dorado Kitchen:
This is one of those “only in Wine Country” experiences that includes a cult winemaker, a 170-year old adobe re-imagined by one of the West Coast’s hottest designers, and luxurious bites from a chef with a swoon-worthy resume. Three Sticks Winery, lead by former Williams Selyem winemaker Bob Cabral hosts reservation-only tasting in the historic Vallejo-Castaneda Adobe in Sonoma with seasonal dishes from nearby El Dorado Kitchen including scallops with fire-roasted cauliflower (chardonnay), roasted beets with horseradish fennel (pinot noir) and beef short ribs with peas and leeks (pinot noir). $85 small bites pairing, $200 private luncheon, offered Monday through Saturday for groups of two to eight by reservation only. 143 West Spain St., Sonoma, threestickswines.com 996-3328.

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room features a 7-course wine pairing adventure perfect for Valentines. (Heather Irwin)

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Room, Chef Sam Frumkin: Discussing the theory of wine pairing can be about as interesting as a root canal. So let’s not. Instead, let’s talk about a saucy little chicken tostada. Its rich mole sauce comes from an old family recipe with a laundry list of ingredients that include earthy chiles, dark spices and a hint of chocolate. Cue salivation. You gotta wash it down with something, so why not a bold and brassy Petite Sirah? Sip. Bite. Sip. If the two come together in harmony, it’s cha-cha time for your tastebuds. If not, well, you’re still gonna be eating and drinking, so it’s not all bad.

For Frumkin, however, making that mole really showcase a particular wine isn’t an accident, but a quest. The mole, he said, took dozens of tries to get just right for the wine. I couldn’t be too overpowering, nor too subtle, but had to be just right. So, when Frumkin serves up this little bite, along with several others, including a pierogi with chardonnay, short ribs and corn bread with old vine zinfandel and mango panna cotta with off-dry gewurztraminer. The menu changes up seasonally, but Frumkin’s enthusiasm and creativity are a constant. $40, appointments strongly recommended at mayofamilywinery.com/reserve-room. 9200 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood, 833-5504.

lynmar_frakes
Lynmar Estate, Chef David Frakes:
This veteran chef (Gary Danko, Applewood Inn, Beringer Winery) has a pretty simple theory about great pairings: Salt, sugar and acid. Rather than trying to mimic the flavors of the wine to food, he adapts the food—more salt, more sugar, more acid—to really make the wine pop. “It should be exactly what the winemaker intended in the bottle,” he said. That, and practice. “I have 30 years of practicing this,” he said, “and my batting average is pretty good.”

Lynmar currently has a bar menu that includes popcorn with white truffle oil, gourmet cheese plate, charcuterie selection and summer picnic pairings with estate vegetable salad, fruits and wraps. For the last several months, Frakes has been working toward a more elaborate food and wine experience launching in April. Working with the winery gardens, the dishes will be based on the week’s harvest and will last several hours. “It’s about elevating our food to match our wines,” he said. Bar menu available daily, $5-$30. 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol, 829-3374, lynmarestate.com.

Michel-Schlumberger, Chef John Langhals: The sit-down tasting at this Dry Creek winery has been around for years, but new chef John Langhals, is looking to take it to the next level. His current menu includes curried cauliflower soup with cardamom cream (paired with chardonnay), a beef slider with mushrooms, cheddar and “secret sauce” (with syrah) and caramelized Brussels sprouts with bacon, blue cheese and sage brown butter (with cab). It’s one of the most beautiful spots in Sonoma to spend a few hours, which is saying a lot. The seasonal menu changes monthly, so expect dishes perfectly timed with what’s available. $55, five courses, from 11am to 3p.m. Thursday through Monday, on the hour. Reservations required, 4155 Wine Creek Road, Healdsburg, 433-7427, michelschlumberger.com.

todd-knoll-jordan-winery-chef-hero
Jordan Winery, Chef Todd Knoll:
Food doesn’t take a back seat to wine at this fun-loving yet elegant winery. Chef Knoll has free reign over an extensive estate garden and wines that allow for some creative exploration. Before he hits the kitchen, Knoll illustrates each dish by hand, with his many drawings overflowing from a sketchbook. Chardonnay might be paired with crab and canelli bean salad with citrus vinaigrette and caviar, while a heartier cabernet is served with veal, farro and black truffle vinaigrette. Tastings can include tours of the garden and estate, and range from $40 to $120. Reservations required, 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 431-5250, jordanwinery.com.

Cauliflower at Partake by K-J takes advantage of produce from the winery gardens.

Partake By K-J, Chef Justin Wangler: With access to Kendall Jackson’s own vast culinary gardens, local meat purveyors and in-house pastry and bread bakers, this unassuming cafe/tasting room is one of Wine Country’s best values. Focused on the winery’s smaller-production wines, it’s a five-course tasting that includes cured hamachi crudo with citrus salad and pea shoots, Lassen County trout with trout roe and saffron buerre blanc, grilled squid with bone marrow and oyster mushrooms, pan roasted filet mignon and butter scotch panna cotta with candy cap meringue. A vegetarian option is also available. $65 to $75, reservations recommended, 241Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-6000, partakebykj.com.

St. Francis Winery, Chef Bryan Jones: You can’t talk about food and wine pairings without mentioning St. Francis, which was named “The Best Restaurant in America” by OpenTable.com in 2013 and 2015 for a reason. It’s a stellar sit-down experience that’s still one of the best values at $68 per person. The current menu includes a pan-seared day boat scallop with sunchokes and lemon puree, cocoa tortelli with heirloom beans, braised short ribs with chestnut spatzle and chocolate marquise with blue cheese panna cotta. The wines ain’t bad either. Seatings Thursday through Monday, reservations required. 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, 538-9463, stfranciswinery.com.

erikwide
J Vineyard and Winery’s Bubble Room, Chef Erik Johnson:
Food loves bubbles, especially when it comes to desserts and cheeses. Chef Erik Johnson has free-reign over some of Sonoma County’s best bubbles and pinot noirs to find just the right seasonal dishes to bring out their best qualities. We love his love-themed menu that includes oysters, black trumpet mushroom tagliolini with uni, capon and black truffle roulade with champagne Hollandaise and two sweet courses (natch) including a brie profiterole with huckleberry and candy cap mushroom creme brulee. Seatings Thursday through Sunday at 11, 12, 2 and 3pm. Reservations strong suggested, $95, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 431-5430, jwine.com.

Missing one of your favorites? Check out more great chef-driving wine and food pairings at Sonoma County wineries online at biteclubeats.com/wine-pairing.

Upcoming Outdoor Sonoma County Events

Written by James Lanaras for The Press Democrat.

Take a nature walk, join a fun run, learn to dye wool or plan your Mt. Whitney trek. These are just a few ways to enjoy the outdoors in Sonoma County this week.

GUIDED NATURE WALK, FEB. 27

Glen Ellen: Take a 2- to 5-mile guided nature walk through oak and evergreen woodlands 9:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Saturday at Bouverie Preserve, 13935 Sonoma Highway. Free, $15 donation suggested. Reservations: acr.egret.org, (415) 868-9244. Info: 938-4554, bouverie@egret.org.

FUN RUN, FEB. 27

Windsor: Lace up for the Healdsburg Running Company’s free Saturday morning fun run at Shiloh Ranch Regional Park on Faught Road. Meet at the trailhead at 8 a.m. 395-0372.

MUSHROOM DYES, Feb. 27

Santa Rosa: Mushroom dyer and scientific illustrator Dorothy Beebee shows how to use fungi to dye wool and silk fibers 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday at Pepperwood Preserve, 2130 Pepperwood Preserve Road. $55, ages 13 and up. 591-9310.

SIGNS OF SPRING, FEB. 27

Kenwood: See, hear and smell the transformations underway during a free 3-mile moderately-paced hike, 10 a.m.-noon Saturday at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, 2605 Adobe Canyon Road. $8 for parking. Rain cancels the event. 833-5712

MT. WHITNEY, MARCH 1

Santa Rosa: Learn about climbing 14,505-foot Mt. Whitney from Ron and Joan Bruech who have done it seven times 7-8:30 p.m. Tuesday at REI, 2175 Santa Rosa Ave. Free. 540-9025.

Secret Santa Rosa Breakfast Spot

French toast at Sprenger’s Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor

Shhh. Don’t tell anyone, but we’ve found a secret Santa Rosa breakfast spot.

Local cook Damon Gault slings hash from around 8 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. Saturday and Sunday mornings at Sprenger’s Tap Room (446 B St., Santa Rosa). And by “around” we mean as long as people are eating and his food doesn’t run out.

French toast at Sprenger's Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor
French toast at Sprenger’s Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor

It’s mostly a word-of-mouth thing for his friends (and their friends and anyone else who shows up), but his house-smoked pastrami hash is so insanely good we had to at least give you a chance to try it. Made with diced potatoes, pulled pastrami, eggs to order and sautéed kale ($12), it was so good we literally licked the plate clean. Other dishes include chicken fried steak and potatoes ($11), biscuits and gravy ($6) and cinnamon walnut French toast ($8).

Chicken fried steak at Sprenger's Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor
Chicken fried steak at Sprenger’s Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor

What inspired Gault, however, was his passion for competitive barbecuing and a love of food. An electrician by trade, his time in the kitchen (often with his son) is purely for the joy of it. Ask him about his smoked spices or his pastrami-making process and you’ll see what we mean. 

Eggs benny at Sprenger's Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor
Eggs benny at Sprenger’s Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor

We’re seeing more and more restaurant take-overs during off hours, when chefs “borrow” a kitchen during less busy times (like dinner for breakfast spots, or breakfast for dinner spots). It’s a great way to incubate a food idea without much overhead, or simply indulge a cooking passion.

Biscuits and gravy at Sprenger's Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor
Biscuits and gravy at Sprenger’s Tap Room: The secret breakfast. Photo: Nathan Pintor

Like we said, this is a labor of love, so we can’t really promise what will be on the menu, but go with a sense of adventure, grab a beer and enjoy the ride. (Update: Damon plans to expand the offerings to Saturday and Sunday)

The French Laundry, The Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch Make Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat List

The Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch in St. Helena ranked No. 85 on Yelp’s list of Top 100 Places to Eat in the U.S. 2016. (PD FILE, 2011)

The review website Yelp.com has ranked The French Laundry in Yountville as No. 57 and the Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch in St. Helena as No. 85 on this year’s list of Top 100 Places to Eat in the U.S.

The famed French Laundry, owned by Thomas Keller, long a favorite of both locals and tourists alike, serves French cuisine with American influences.

The Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch serves farm-to-table New American cuisine.

While the Napa County restaurants were the only two North Bay restaurants on the list, they were far from the only Bay Area favorites.

Near the top of the list was Cheese Board Pizza in Berkeley at No. 2. and Gary Danko in San Francisco at No. 6. Ike’s Place, a sandwich shop with multiple locations including one in Santa Rosa, came in at No. 24.

 For the complete ranking head here and click through the gallery to see the other Bay Area restaurants that made the list.

2016 BottleRock Restaurants and Food Vendors Announced

We’ve been every year, and the food just keeps getting more impressive. A few we’re especially excited about this year

Wanna-E: A Mandalay-style food truck featuring the region’s mash-up cuisine of Chinese, Indian and Thai

Estate Events by Meadowood: We’re not sure what this will actually turn out to be, but with the name Meadowood, it has to be good!

Goose and Gander: Mostly because we haven’t been to this St. Helena restaurant yet, and we’re dying to try their food.

Napa Palisades Saloon: We’re fans of this recent addition to the Valley, and hope they’ll be serving up some of their terrific pub grub.

Kollar Chocolates: Amazing chocolatier from Napa

Bacon, Bacon: Because yeah, bacon. This pork-centric food truck is a festival staple.

The Middle Feast: Middle eastern food truck with a few surprising twists

We’re preparing to start warming up our tastebuds now. More details and tickets online at bottlerocknapavalley.com.

 

Best Food and Wine Pairing Experiences in Sonoma

Chefs have become the secret weapon at Sonoma wineries trying to woo your tastebuds, not simply with a bite of bread or a dull plate of cheese and crackers, but with Michelin star-worthy dishes.

In Sonoma County, more and more wineries are offering these intimate white tablecloth experiences that feel more like dining and less like swigging a glass of wine at a crowded bar. St. Francis Winery was named “Best Restaurant in America” not once, but twice by OpenTable.com readers because of its luxurious food and wine pairing experience, although it is far from alone in creating memorable Wine Country meals.

Somewhere between art and science, these winery chefs are making it their mission to create love connections from glass to plate. More than merely trotting out whites with chicken and reds with meat, these are carefully-designed matches that complement (or sometimes contrast) the fruit, acid and tannins of everything from Gewurztraminer to Petit Sirah.

So skip the water crackers and spit buckets and gear up for multi-course lineups of scallops with fire-roasted cauliflower, a Spanish tapas plate of garlic prawns, or smoked salmon bruschetta with Meyer lemons and micro greens created precisely for the wine they’re paired with. Now that’s a tasting we can get behind.

This isn’t, however, just for the one-percenters. Many are surprisingly affordable (and even a steal) for this kind of uptown activity, especially if you’re a wine club member (they’re trying to get you to buy wine, after all). Whether you walk away with a case or just a tasty experience, keep in mind that these usually aren’t full meals, but small one or two bite tastes, so you won’t walk away stuffed, but you will walk away satisfied.

Here are some of our top picks.

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Three Sticks at the Adobe, Chef Armando Navarro of El Dorado Kitchen:
This is one of those “only in Wine Country” experiences that includes a cult winemaker, a 170-year old adobe re-imagined by one of the West Coast’s hottest designers, and luxurious bites from a chef with a swoon-worthy resume. Three Sticks Winery, lead by former Williams Selyem winemaker Bob Cabral hosts reservation-only tasting in the historic Vallejo-Castaneda Adobe in Sonoma with seasonal dishes from nearby El Dorado Kitchen including scallops with fire-roasted cauliflower (chardonnay), roasted beets with horseradish fennel (pinot noir) and beef short ribs with peas and leeks (pinot noir). $85 small bites pairing, $200 private luncheon, offered Monday through Saturday for groups of two to eight by reservation only. 143 West Spain St., Sonoma, threestickswines.com 996-3328.

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room features a 7-course wine pairing adventure perfect for Valentines. (Heather Irwin)
Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room features a 7-course wine pairing adventure perfect for Valentines. (Heather Irwin)

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Room, Chef Sam Frumkin: Discussing the theory of wine pairing can be about as interesting as a root canal. So let’s not. Instead, let’s talk about a saucy little chicken tostada. Its rich mole sauce comes from an old family recipe with a laundry list of ingredients that include earthy chiles, dark spices and a hint of chocolate. Cue salivation. You gotta wash it down with something, so why not a bold and brassy Petite Sirah? Sip. Bite. Sip. If the two come together in harmony, it’s cha-cha time for your tastebuds. If not, well, you’re still gonna be eating and drinking, so it’s not all bad.

For Frumkin, however, making that mole really showcase a particular wine isn’t an accident, but a quest. The mole, he said, took dozens of tries to get just right for the wine. I couldn’t be too overpowering, nor too subtle, but had to be just right. So, when Frumkin serves up this little bite, along with several others, including a pierogi with chardonnay, short ribs and corn bread with old vine zinfandel and mango panna cotta with off-dry gewurztraminer. The menu changes up seasonally, but Frumkin’s enthusiasm and creativity are a constant. $40, appointments strongly recommended at mayofamilywinery.com/reserve-room. 9200 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood, 833-5504.

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Lynmar Estate, Chef David Frakes:
This veteran chef (Gary Danko, Applewood Inn, Beringer Winery) has a pretty simple theory about great pairings: Salt, sugar and acid. Rather than trying to mimic the flavors of the wine to food, he adapts the food—more salt, more sugar, more acid—to really make the wine pop. “It should be exactly what the winemaker intended in the bottle,” he said. That, and practice. “I have 30 years of practicing this,” he said, “and my batting average is pretty good.”

Lynmar currently has a bar menu that includes popcorn with white truffle oil, gourmet cheese plate, charcuterie selection and summer picnic pairings with estate vegetable salad, fruits and wraps. For the last several months, Frakes has been working toward a more elaborate food and wine experience launching in April. Working with the winery gardens, the dishes will be based on the week’s harvest and will last several hours. “It’s about elevating our food to match our wines,” he said. Bar menu available daily, $5-$30. 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol, 829-3374, lynmarestate.com.

Michel-Schlumberger, Chef John Langhals: The sit-down tasting at this Dry Creek winery has been around for years, but new chef John Langhals, is looking to take it to the next level. His current menu includes curried cauliflower soup with cardamom cream (paired with chardonnay), a beef slider with mushrooms, cheddar and “secret sauce” (with syrah) and caramelized Brussels sprouts with bacon, blue cheese and sage brown butter (with cab). It’s one of the most beautiful spots in Sonoma to spend a few hours, which is saying a lot. The seasonal menu changes monthly, so expect dishes perfectly timed with what’s available. $55, five courses, from 11am to 3p.m. Thursday through Monday, on the hour. Reservations required, 4155 Wine Creek Road, Healdsburg, 433-7427, michelschlumberger.com.

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Jordan Winery, Chef Todd Knoll:
Food doesn’t take a back seat to wine at this fun-loving yet elegant winery. Chef Knoll has free reign over an extensive estate garden and wines that allow for some creative exploration. Before he hits the kitchen, Knoll illustrates each dish by hand, with his many drawings overflowing from a sketchbook. Chardonnay might be paired with crab and canelli bean salad with citrus vinaigrette and caviar, while a heartier cabernet is served with veal, farro and black truffle vinaigrette. Tastings can include tours of the garden and estate, and range from $40 to $120. Reservations required, 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 431-5250, jordanwinery.com.

Grilled Snake River Bavette Steak with Honey Lavender Carrots, Spinich Puree, Onion Powder, Onion-Butter Foam paired with St. Francis 2012 Red Wine, Rockpile Red, Sonoma County. Photo: Heather Irwin.
Grilled Snake River Bavette Steak with Honey Lavender Carrots, Spinich Puree, Onion Powder, Onion-Butter Foam paired with St. Francis 2012 Red Wine, Rockpile Red, Sonoma County. Photo: Heather Irwin.

St. Francis Winery, Chef Bryan Jones: You can’t talk about food and wine pairings without mentioning St. Francis, which was named “The Best Restaurant in America” by OpenTable.com in 2013 and 2015 for a reason. It’s a stellar sit-down experience that’s still one of the best values at $68 per person. The current menu includes a pan-seared day boat scallop with sunchokes and lemon puree, cocoa tortelli with heirloom beans, braised short ribs with chestnut spatzle and chocolate marquise with blue cheese panna cotta. The wines ain’t bad either. Seatings Thursday through Monday, reservations required. 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, 538-9463, stfranciswinery.com.

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J Vineyard and Winery’s Bubble Room, Chef Erik Johnson:
Food loves bubbles, especially when it comes to desserts and cheeses. Chef Erik Johnson has free-reign over some of Sonoma County’s best bubbles and pinot noirs to find just the right seasonal dishes to bring out their best qualities. We love his love-themed menu that includes oysters, black trumpet mushroom tagliolini with uni, capon and black truffle roulade with champagne Hollandaise and two sweet courses (natch) including a brie profiterole with huckleberry and candy cap mushroom creme brulee. Seatings Thursday through Sunday at 11, 12, 2 and 3pm. Reservations strong suggested, $95, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 431-5430, jwine.com.

Missing one of your favorites? Check out more great chef-driving wine and food pairings at Sonoma County wineries online at biteclubeats.com/wine-pairing.

CLOSED Bibi’s Burger Bar Replacing Flipside Burgers

CLOSED

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Flipside Burgers and Wings is dead. Long live Bibi’s Burger Bar!

The downtown Santa Rosa burger spot formerly owned by restaurateur Nino Rabbaa was purchased by Sonu Chandi, of Stout Brothers in late 2015 and as of Feb. 21, 2016 served its last burger. Until March 2, when it re-opens as Bibi’s Burger Bar (630 Third St., Santa Rosa).

Here’s why we’re especially excited: Top local chefs Ben Davies (Petite Syrah, Spoonbar, Mirepoix) and Bruce Frieseke (Applewood, Bella Vineyards) are behind the opening menu, which means (hopefully) we’re in for the chef-driven burger experience downtown has long needed. Long. Needed.

Frieske is also the opening chef for Chandi’s other new soon-to-launch downtown restaurant venture, Craft 535 Kitchen + Bar in the former Caffe Portofino on Fourth St.

The burger restaurant lcoation, next to Third Street Aleworks, has always been a night-time hotspot, if for no other reason than its proximity to downtown entertainment and full bar. If the food could live up to the prime real estate, there’s little doubt it will be a knock-out.

More details as opening gets closer.