Scott Beattie Heads up Ramen Gaijin’s Cocktail Menu

Cocktail-whisperer Scott Beattie has created a drink menu for Ramen Gaijin inspired by his passion for Japan and, well, booze.

Tea-infused whiskeys, along with cocktails that showcase pickled plums and even mushrooms are beyond incredible. Also look for shrub cocktails with seasonal fruit from Bar Manager Gillian Tyrnauaer.

We’re a little bit in love, and a whole lot ready for happy hour.

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Beattie uses three kinds of tea with Japanese whiskey (and this hand-cut ice cube) in the cocktails at Ramen Gaijin.
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Citrus shrub cocktail at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
hi0316_ramengaijin_plumcocktail
Umeboshi plum Manhattan at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
Plum wine cocktail with shiso at Ramen Gaijin (heather irwin)
Plum wine cocktail with shiso at Ramen Gaijin (heather irwin)
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Seasonal pickled veggies with a shrub at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
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Whisky with a pickled mushroom at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
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A Moscow Mule with pickled ginger at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
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Seasonal shrub cocktails at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
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Tyrnauaer and Beattie at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
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Ramen Gaijin bar manager and shrub expert Gillian Tyrnauaer at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
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Tea-infused whiskey at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)

 

Sonoma County Events Happening This Week

Written by Crissi Langwell & Dan Taylor for The Press Democrat.

Looking for something to do this weekend? Here are a few ideas. This weekend, celebrate the start of salmon fishing season with the Bodega Bay Fisherman’s Festival. On Saturday, discover your new favorite beer at Battle of Brews. Or you can run in your skivvies for a good cause at this Saturday’s Underwear Run. All this and more is in our list of things to do.

Saturday, April 9
Battle of the Brews: This Saturday, taste the best of the best beers at the annual Battle of the Brews, held at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Starting at 4 p.m., the main event features over 50 beers and food vendors hoping for your vote. Also happening is a competition between craft brews at the Craft Cup and the search for the best ‘wich at the Sandwich Showdown. Tickets are $50-$95. Find out all the info at battleofthebrews.com.

Saturday, April 9
Yoga Hike in Sugarloaf: Enjoy a mix of hiking and gentle yoga and meditative practices on this scenic and tranquil 2-mile hike. The Sugarloaf hike will begin at 10 a.m., and the $20 fee includes parking when bought in advance. Find out more at buildyourpeace.com.

Saturday, April 9
Bubbles & Blooms: Celebrate spring with a glass of bubbly while surrounded by plant and floral arrangements at Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards. Meet with floral professionals to learn new tricks for your own home decorating, and peruse the on-site garden market for inspiration and to get you off to a spring start. The afternoon will be enhanced by Gloria Ferrer wines and chef-prepared tasty bites. The event is from 12-4 p.m. at the Sonoma winery, and is $80 with code LOCALSBB. Find out more at gloriaferrer.com.

Saturday, April 9
Taste of Olivet: Experience a fun day of tasting at the various wineries on Olivet Road in Santa Rosa this Saturday. The event is 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and tickets are $30-$40 advance. Find out more at www.olivetroad.com.

Saturday, April 9
Underwear Run: This Saturday, strip down to your skivvies and run for a good cause when Scope For Hope holds their 5K/10K fun run to increase colon cancer awareness in Sonoma County. The run starts rain or shine 9:30 a.m. at Julliard Park in Santa Rosa. Underwear costumes and teams are encouraged. Registration is $30-$40. Kids 6-17 are $20, and kids 5 and under are free. Find out more at sutterpacific.org/events.

April 9-10
Bodega Bay Fisherman’s Festival: Celebrate this year’s salmon season at this time-honored festival held at Westside Park in Bodega Bay. The event includes the traditional blessing of the fleet on Sunday, and events and entertainment for all ages all weekend long. From 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. both Saturday and Sunday, enjoy live music, wine tasting, local cuisine, arts and crafts, exhibits and more. Admission is $10-$20, and kids under 12 are free. Find out more at www.bbfishfest.org.

Other upcoming events:

Friday, April 8
Bennett Friedman Jazz Quartet: Benefit SRJC jazz concert, 8 p.m., Newman Auditorium, Santa Rosa Junior College, Santa Rosa campus. $5-$10 at the door only, $4 parking.

Mean Girls: Rock unicore band, 9 p.m., HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $10. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.

Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center: Program of Strauss, Dvorak and Brahms, 7:30 p.m. April 8, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $35-$85. 866-955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

‘All My Sons’: Raven Players production of Arthur Miller’s first play, opens 8 p.m. April 8, Raven Performing Arts Theater, Healdsburg. $10-$25. 433-6335, raventheater.org.

Saturday, April 9

Roy Rogers & The Delta Rhythm Kings: Slide guitarist, 8:30 p.m. Saturday, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $26. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.

Circus Maximus: New family-friendly ‘Juxtapose’ production from Sonoma County circus troupe, 5 p.m. Saturday, The Glaser Center, Santa Rosa. $20-$25. juxtapose.brownpapertickets.com.

Michael McDonald & Friends: Rural Health Rocks fundraiser, 8 p.m. April 9, Mendocino College Center Theatre, Ukiah. Sold out, wait list full. ruralhealthrocks.com.

Roy Rogers & The Delta Rhythm Kings: Slide guitarist, 8:30 p.m. April 9, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $26. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.

Sunday, April 10

Sonoma County Philharmonic: ‘Spanish Gardens’ concert, 2 p.m. April 10, Santa Rosa High School Performing Arts Auditorium. $10-$15. 206-6775, socophil.org.

‘Story Pirates’: Comic sketches and mini-musicals for all ages, 3 p.m. April 10, Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, Santa Rosa. $12-$17. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.

Otep: Heavy metal band, 7 p.m. April 10, Phoenix Theater, Petaluma. $22-$25. 762-3565, thephoenixtheater.com.

Big Art Treasure Hunt: Original art hidden around Sonoma County for finders to keep, party noon-4 p.m. Sunday, Pie Eyed Open Studio, Sebastopol. See the Facebook Events page.

Monday, April 11

‘Snoopy & the Red Baron’: Exhibit of the famous dog and his nemesis, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday, Charles M. Schulz Museum, Santa Rosa. $5-$10. 579-4452, schulzmuseum.org.

Stephen O’Connor: ‘Thomas Jefferson Dreams of Sally Hemings’ author, 7 p.m. Tuesday, Book Passage, Corte Madera. Free. (415) 927-0960, bookpassage.com.

Wednesday, April 13

Jessica Knoll: Copperfield’s Books’ ‘Debut Brew’ series with ‘Luckiest Girl Alive’ author, 6 p.m. Wednesday, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. Free. copperfieldsbooks.com.

Miki Agrawal: Women in Leadership talk with social entrepreneur and ‘Do Cool Sh*t’ author, 7:30 p.m. Wednesday, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $25. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Thursday, April 14

Todd Snider: Gypsy singer-songwriter solo performance, 8 p.m. Thursday, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $30-$45, sold out. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.

Gary Soto: Shakespeare-inspired poetry at ‘Luminarias II’ visiting author series, 7 p.m. Thursday, April 14, SHED Grange, Healdsburg. $10. 431-7433, healdsburgshed.com.

Friday, April 15

‘Breaking Legs’: Madcap mobster comedy from North Bay Stage Company, opens 8 p.m. Friday, April 15, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $24. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.

Next Level: Three stages showcase a wide genre of local and regional musical talent, 7 p.m. Friday, April 15, Arlene Francis Center, Santa Rosa. $16.99-$22. nextlevelsonoma.com.

Paul McCandless/Christian Foley-Beining Collaboration: Original compositions by jazz quartet, 8 p.m. Friday, April 15, Occidental Center for the Arts. $20. 874-9392, occidentalcenterforthearts.org.

Chanticleer: Twelve-voice San Francisco men’s ensemble ‘Over the Moon’ program, 7:30 p.m. Friday, April 15, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $35-$85. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Saturday, April 16

‘Come As You Art’: Sonoma Community Center centennial celebration with Vitamin Girl, food, full bar, 6-9 p.m. Saturday, April 16, Andrews Hall, Sonoma. $100. 938-4626, sonomacommunitycenter.org.

Earth Day Celebration: Plant sale, art, entertainment, activities and demonstrations, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday, April 16, Quarryhill Botanical Garden, Glen Ellen. Free admission, $5 parking. 996-3166, quarryhillbg.org.

Anoushka Shankar: Sitar performance, 7:30 p.m. Saturday, April 16, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $35-$85. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Sunday, April 17

An Afternoon of Poetry: Outdoor readings with current and former Sonoma County Poets Laureate Iris Jamahl Dunkle and Katherine Hastings, respectively, 1-2:30 p.m. Sunday, April 17, Jack London State Historic Park, Glen Ellen. Free, $10 parking, $5 bike- or walk-in. 938-5216, jacklondonpark.com.

‘April in Carneros’: Wine, food and live entertainment at 15 award-winning wineries, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday, April 17, southern Sonoma Valley. $15-$75. carneroswineries.org.

Sonoma Bach Consort: ‘Sacred Realms: Song of Songs’ concert with Green Mountain Singers, 3 p.m. Sunday, April 17, St. Seraphim of Sarov Orthodox Church, Santa Rosa. $15-$25. (877) 914-2224, sonomabach.org.

James David Christie: Organist performs works of 16th- to 18th-century masters of the ‘king of instrument,’ 3 p.m. Sunday, April 17, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $30. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.

Santa Rosa Symphony Pops: ‘The King: The Music of Elvis,’ 3 p.m. Sunday, April 17, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $37-$80. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.

Trail of the Week: Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail

Written by Diane Peterson for The Press Democrat.

The Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail is a popular destination for dog lovers such as Genevieve Jago of Sebastopol, who hooked up her energetic, 8-month-old English Cocker Spaniel in the Highway 12 parking lot and embarked on a restorative walk on a warm, spring day in early April.

“My brother and I come here a lot,” Jago said. “We bring our dogs and go on runs.”

A red wing blackbird keeps watch over his territor along the Laguna de Santa Rosa trial.   (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
A red wing blackbird keeps watch over his territor along the Laguna de Santa Rosa trial. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

With just a slight elevation of 50 feet, the multi-use trail stretching from Highway 12 to Occidental Road is also ideal for older hikers who may not have the strength or agility to tackle more strenuous climbs. There are several benches located at Kelly Pond near Occidental Road, where you can rest and enjoy the view over the Santa Rosa Plain.

The location of the trail just outside downtown Sebastopol makes it ideal for a meet-up with friends, who may want to linger afterwards for a cup of coffee and a pastry at one of the Barlow’s coffee shops, such as Village Bakery or Taylor Maid Farms.

The trail, which opened late in 2012, gives folks a chance to explore and learn more about the Laguna de Santa Rosa, a 14-mile long wetland complex that drains into a 254-square mile watershed. Every drop of water falling into the watershed flows into the Laguna, then into Mark West Creek, the Russian River and eventually, into the Pacific Ocean.

A hail shaft advances on hikers taking an afternoon walk at the Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail in Sebastopol. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
A hail shaft advances on hikers taking an afternoon walk at the Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail in Sebastopol. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)

The trail crosses Kelly Farm, a 397-acre property purchased in 1979 by the City of Santa Rosa for its recycled water program. The farm now offers unfarmed, natural areas to promote native biodiversity and is bisected by Duer Creek, which runs between Kelly Pond and Kelly Marsh.

Besides serving as a significant floodplain during the winter, the Laguna also provides one of the richest and most biologically diverse areas of wildlife habitat in Sonoma County, with more than 200 species of birds, including bald and golden eagles, osprey and hawks in addition to river otters, bobcats and gray fox.

The coast Miwok and Southern Pomo lived in this fertile watershed for tens of thousands of years before the European settlers, hunting game and harvesting plants for food, clothing, shelter and boats.

Debra Capri, left, and Chris Sittig take a morning hike along the Laguna de Santa Rosa trial with Mt. St. Helena in the background.   (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Debra Capri, left, and Chris Sittig take a morning hike along the Laguna de Santa Rosa trial with Mt. St. Helena in the background. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Hikers who leave their four-legged friends at home can get a much closer look at the wildlife here by taking the pedestrian-only loop through the Laguna de Santa Rosa Wetland Preserve on the way back to Highway 12.

The preserve features riparian forest and floodplain, seasonal wetlands and vernal pools, upland valley oak savanna and freshwater tule marsh. During a recent walk along the grassy trail, a cacophony of birdsong rose from the wildflowers fields, blackberry bushes and cattails, where red-winged blackbirds and marsh wrens flitted in and out. Overhead, turkey vultures and egrets soared, tree swallows swooped in formation and a tiny hummingbird alighted gracefully on an oak limb.

A group of hikers make their way along the newly opened Discovery Trail along the Laguna de Santa Rosa. Laguna Foundation officials led a guided hike sharing stories of the restoration effort. (Jeremy Portje / For The Press Democrat)
A group of hikers make their way along the newly opened Discovery Trail along the Laguna de Santa Rosa. Laguna Foundation officials led a guided hike sharing stories of the restoration effort. (Jeremy Portje / For The Press Democrat)

In the grasslands, there were plenty of jackrabbits hopping under foot, unperturbed by the presence of humans. Since this is very sensitive habitat, hikers must stay on the trail as it wends its way through Meadowlark Field.

On a warm day, there are lots of shady picnic tables along the trail to stop at for a drink or a bite to eat. A bench under an oak near the southern entrance is engraved with an appropriate verse from Alice Walker: “We have a beautiful mother. Her green lap immense. Her brown embrace eternal. Her blue body everything we know.”

 

laguna map

Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail

Hiking distance: 2.4-mile double loop

Hiking time:- 1.5 hours

Configuration: double loop

Elevation gain: 50 feet

Difficulty: easy

Exposure: mostly open meadows

Dogs: allowed

Maps: U.S.G.S. Sebastopol

Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail Map

The Laguna de Santa Rosa is Sonoma’s largest freshwater wetland, comprised of a 30,000-acre complex of open waters, verdant wetlands, expansive grasslands, perennial marshes, oak and ash savanna, riparian forest, vernal pools, and ponds. The wetland, extending from Forestville to Cotati, serves as a huge storage pond during heavy rains and is a critical flood basin for the Russian River. The laguna provides a stopover for thousands of native and migrating birds along the Pacific Flyway, with more than 200 species of birds.

The Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail is a multi-use hiking, biking, and equestrian trail that winds along the east side of the water-way’s main channel. A 1.8-mile trail connects Highway 12 in Sebastopol with Occidental Road just to the north, with trailheads along each road. The trails opened to the public in 2012.

This hike winds through the Laguna de Santa Rosa Wetland Preserve and the adjacent Kelly Farm along a 2.4-mile double loop. The route travels through mostly open grasslands dotted with oaks, eucalyptus, and blackberry vines. The trail circles Kelly Pond, frequently teeming with birds. There is a bench that offers an overlook of the pond and a distant view of Mount Saint Helena. A -pedestrian-only path drops into the floodplain and parallels the Laguna waterway in lush riparian forest.

___

To the trailhead

Hwy 12 • Sebastopol

38.405262, -122.811029

The Highway 12 (southern trailhead) is located along the eastern edge of Sebastopol.

From Sebastopol Road (Highway 12) and Main Street in downtown Sebastopol, drive 0.7 miles east on Sebastopol Road to the signed Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail turnoff on the left. It is located just east of the Chevron gas station. Turn left, then another quick left into the parking lot. A parking fee is not required.

From Santa Rosa, drive 5.5 miles west on Highway 12 to the posted trailhead turnoff on the right.

The northern trailhead is located at 5420 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa.

The hike

From the trailhead kiosk, take the well-defined trail north to a posted junction at 100 yards. The left fork (the return route) leads to the Laguna Wetland Preserve. Begin the loop straight ahead, staying on the Laguna de Santa Rosa Trail. Skirt the east edge of Meadowlark Field to a signed Y-fork at 0.3 miles. Stay to the right and follow the raised path, overlooking the open meadows and a view of Mount Saint Helena. Continue to a gated pedestrian trail on the left at 0.8 miles. To the left is the return route. For now, continue straight along the east side of a vineyard to an overlook with benches at Kelly Pond. A half-mile trail circles the pond, a popular habitat for the birds. Views of the pond extend along the west and south sides. From here, it is 0.6 miles north to the Occidental Road trailhead.

After circling the pond, return 0.2 miles to the pedestrian gate, now on the right. Pass through the gate and head west through the meadow. Curve left and walk south to a T-junction. Bear right and stroll through a mixed riparian forest (predominantly oaks) to a signed junction with the Laguna Wetland Preserve on the right (Hike 65). Walk 35 yards to the right to the banks of the wide creek channel and a summer floating bridge.

Return to the forested main trail and proceed south, parallel to the creek channel. Follow the east banks of the waterway towards Highway 12. Curve left, skirting the south end of the preserve to complete the second loop.

Source: “Day Hikes Around Sonoma County, 2nd Edition” by Robert Stone (Day Hike Books, 2016)

Ramen Gaijin Leads Sonoma County’s Passion for Japanese Restaurants

Pickled vegetables and bonito flakes at Ramen Gaijin and Sebastopol (Heather Irwin)
Pickled vegetables and bonito flakes at Ramen Gaijin and Sebastopol (Heather Irwin)

Don’t know an izakaya from an omakase? Don’t worry, you will.

Although nearly a third of Americans included in a 2015 National Restaurant Association survey said they regularly eat sushi or “Japanese” food, the lion’s share of that is Americanized sushi, strip mall teriyaki and Top Ramen.

The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)
The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)

But homestyle Japanese dishes, pub food and even luxe multi-course kaiseki meals are the obsession of several Sonoma County chefs looking eastward for their culinary inspiration.

The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)
The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)

“There is a lot of symbiosis about what we do here and what they do in Japan,” said Chef Matthew Williams of the Ramen Gaijin, Sonoma County’s first pub-style izakaya and small plates eatery in Sebastopol. That means working closely with seasons and local farms, plating that teases all the senses and culinary techniques based on centuries-old knowledge as well as emerging gastronomical experimentation.

Potstickers at the re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)
Potstickers at the re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)

And though Williams and his co-owner Moishe Hahn-Schuman don’t have Japanese heritage, they pay homage to a cuisine they fallen in love with.

“Our food is an Americanized version but with a sense of place, and working within the seasons,” said Williams. “We try to take traditional Japanese techniques and put them through a Sonoma County lens.”

Poke at the re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)
Poke at the re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)

That sense of place, merged with the exacting precision of Japanese cuisine and the almost ceremonial nature of serving of-the-moment produce, is what fellow chef Kyle Connaughton and his wife/culinary farmer see as their mission at Healdsburg’s forthcoming Single Thread Farms, Restaurant and Inn. The restaurant is slated for an early summer launch.

“There are quite a few parallels,” said Connaughton. He is a farmer, chef and devotee of the disciplined approach to nature in high-end Japanese cuisine, learned during several years of living and working in Northern Japan with Katina.

The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)
The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)

Now raising crops for the restaurant on their own Healdsburg farm, the Connaughtons are witnessing first-hand the subtle, almost imperceptible changes from day to day, week to week. That means a peach or piece of bok choy will land on your plate at just the right moment for eating.

“We borrow from and are inspired by (Japan) and apply it to our own cuisine,” Connaughton said.

The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)
The re-opening of Ramen Gaijin after an expansion. (Heather Irwin)

Other local eateries, pubs and even food trucks have quietly been adding dishes inspired by Japan, but with a definite Sonoma County flair.

Here are a few places to find the food.

Izakaya at Ramen Gaijin (Heather irwin)
Izakaya at Ramen Gaijin (Heather irwin)

Ramen Gaijin, Sebastopol (ramen and yakitori, Japanese-inspired cocktails, small plates): With dashi in their veins and ramen on their minds, chefs Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman have created a uniquely Sonoma County version of izakaya, modeled after Japanese drinking establishments that serve simple, filling foods like ramen and yakitori.

Yakitori skewers, which are grilled and fanned in the open kitchen, include Wagyu beef, chicken meat and the crispy skin, trumpet mushrooms and seasonal fish.

Pork Belly skewers at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)
Pork Belly skewers at Ramen Gaijin (Heather Irwin)

The fragrant smell of meat grilling on charcoal is almost hypnotizing, so we suggest sitting at the kitchen bar if possible. As part of the sensory experience, sprinkled flakes of bonito (dried shrimp) dance and sway in the heat of the plated skewers, beckoning you to admire their beauty and get down to the businesses of eating.

Placing herbs and poke on the plate at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol on3/16. (Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)
Placing herbs and poke on the plate at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol on3/16. (Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)

Ramen bowls are made with the same tweezer-perfect concentration, using homemade broth, homemade ramen noodles, pork belly, perfectly-cooked hard-boiled and pickled eggs, mushrooms and bits of pickled kimchi. This seemingly simple concoction is anything but. It takes days to pull together many of these painstakingly-involved ingredients.

The interior bar at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol on 3/16. (heather irwin, press democrat)
The interior bar at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol on 3/16. (heather irwin, press democrat)

The Gaijin team gives the Japanese bar food a sense of place with local produce, meats and eggs, all meticulously plated. The expanding menu also includes karaage (Japanese fried chicken) along with beer, sake and batch-crafted whiskey and bourbon cocktails created by celebrity cocktail whisperer Scott Beattie. (Check out our cocktail porn page)

hi0316_ramengaijin_team_lowrezThe restaurant reopened this month after extensive remodeling and cocktail program development. The menu now includes dishes like pickled vegetables with bonito, poke (raw fish seasoned with soy sauce and sesame oil) and gyoza (potstickers). 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, ramengaijin.com.

Single Thread, Healdsburg (coming in mid-2016): Chef Kyle Connaughton has worked in some of Japan’s toniest restaurants, and the inspiration shows in his dishes. At a recent guest dinner at St. Helena’s Restaurant at Meadowood, his menu included Sonoma Coast sea urchin (uni) with potatoes from his farm, cooked with Japanese root vegetables and beef in ancient clay cookware called donabe.

Though Single Thread won’t be a Japanese restaurant per se, Connaughton said it will be heavily influenced by the country’s culinary philosophy.

“We use a lot of Japanese products and techniques and are inspired by Japanese hospitality and aesthetics,” he said. “Our menu has a lot of similarities to the format and architecture of a kaiseki menu, but we’re not trying to import a Japanese restaurant to Sonoma.

Chef Kyle Connaughton and his wife, Katina Connaughton, will open Single Thread Farms and Inn in Healdsburg. Photo courtesy of Sally Egan.
Chef Kyle Connaughton and his wife, Katina Connaughton, will open Single Thread Farms and Inn in Healdsburg. Photo courtesy of Sally Egan.

“The spirit of kaiseki is to represent the time and place of where you are, a fleeting moment in time. That is what we are inspired by and apply to Sonoma County.”

Connaughton, co-author of “Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Cooking” (Potter, $22), also sees parallels with his passion for the vessels that have been used for centuries in Japan. He also plans to make the porous, lidded clay pots that work a bit like slow cookers, heating up over time in ovens or over open flames and retaining the heat for a long time.

“They support getting the best out of ingredients and the natural flavors. With so many great products and produce here, we don’t have to manipulate ingredients, but just support and enhance them,” Connaughton said.

131 North St., Healdsburg, singlethreadfarms.com.

Takeshi Uchida, owner of the sushi burrito cart
Takeshi Uchida, owner of the sushi burrito cart

Sushi Shoubu, Santa Rosa (sushi burritos, homestyle miso): If you ask Chef Takeshi Uchida why he’s not making sushi anymore, the answer is pretty simple. It’s not sustainable.

Instead, Uchida’s Sushi Shoubu food truck serves up “sushi burritos” made with local vegetables and sustainable meats wrapped in sushi rice and a “tortilla” wrapper of nori (seaweed). Frequently he adds his homestyle miso, which is nothing like the sad stuff at sushi bars but cloudy with chunks of sweet potato.

You can find Takeshi on Saturdays at the Santa Rosa Community Farmers’ Market.

Hana Japanese in Rohnert Park (Heather Irwin)
Hana Japanese in Rohnert Park (Heather Irwin)

Hana Japanese, Rohnert Park (sushi, sake, omakase): Chef Kenichi Tominaga has been Sonoma County’s flag-bearer of Japanese cuisine for nearly 20 years, though only regulars know the best stuff on (and off) his menu. The best bet is Tominaga’s osusume, or “recommended” menu, which includes dishes such as steamed dashi custard, tako poke (octopus) or whitefish tempura with pickled plums and shiso leaves.

Many of the ingredients come from Sonoma County, although much of the fish is flown in from Japan. Hana also is one of the only Japanese restaurants in the region with a sake “sommelier” and an entire wall of Japanese sake.

101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, hanajapanese.com.

Coming soon: Chef Curtis Di Fede, formerly of Napa’s Oenotri, is slated to open his own izakaya Japanese style pub, Miminashi, in late spring. Located in downtown Napa, the spot will feature small plates of yakitori, steaks and ramen.

Local chef-lebrity and Top Chef Masters winner Douglas Keane also has plans for a collaborative St. Helena restaurant with L.A. chef Sang Yoon. Named Two Birds One Stone, the Japanese-style yakitori grill will be housed in the newly-rehabbed Freemark Abbey Winery in the Napa Valley, owned by Jackson Family Wines. The restaurant is slated for a June 2016 opening.

Big Bottom Biscuits in Guerneville

Biscuits at Big Bottom Market in Guerneville (Heather Irwin)

If we could celebrate our love for the biscuits at Big Bottom Market in an interpretive dance we would, but seeing how this is print, we’ll just tell you that they’re worth the trip to Guerneville.

Lox biscuit at Big Bottom Market's Biscuit Bar (Heather Irwin)
Lox biscuit at Big Bottom Market’s Biscuit Bar (Heather Irwin)

Fluffy, yummy and just a hint of sweetness makes these so awesome — in a California way. Because no self-respecting Southerner would do what comes next. The new Biscuit Bar features these glutenous little pillows with pulled pork, mascarpone and honey, berries and whipped cream or (our fave) smoked salmon and pickled onions. Delish.

The focus on biscuits is just part of the update that co-owners Crista Luedtke, Kate Larkin and Michael Volpatt have given the gourmet general store just in time for summer. They’re adding a new culinary director (Cole Mayfield), along with a Muffuletta Sammie (hello, NOLA), bbq pulled pork sandwich and a mezze plate. Market faves like the Hangover, Parson Jones, soups and salads will remain, along with frozen biscuits to take home and cook.

FYI:  New Yorkers are about to get a taste of BB’s biscuitry, when they open a biscuit bar at Osteria Cotta on Columbus Ave. this summer. A little bit of SoCo in NYC ain’t a bad thing.

16228 Main St, Guerneville, bigbottommarket.com.

RIP Santa Rosa’s Sonoma Taco Shop

Sonoma Taco Shop has closed after 25 years
Sonoma Taco Shop has closed after 25 years

I’ve heard from dozens of you regarding the surprising demise of the much-loved Sonoma Taco Shop in Santa Rosa. The family-owned spot on Montgomery Dr. (near Rosso Pizzeria) was the go-to for burritos and tacos for the last 25 years, and a surprising sign announcing the closure last weekend has folks rattled.

Sonoma Taco Shop has closed after 25 years
Sonoma Taco Shop has closed after 25 years

I haven’t reached the old or new owners yet, but the new restaurant is going to be called Taco Chido. A reader informed me that he had spoken with one of the old chefs who said the space will be remodeled and the new owner is hoping to keep on the old employees.

I’ll keep trying to find out more details.

Ralph’s Bistro Says Goodbye. Really. We’re not kidding.

Ralph Tingle of Bistro Ralph in Healdsburg. File photo: Jeff Kan Lee, 2008, Press Democrat.
Ralph Tingle of Bistro Ralph in Healdsburg. File photo: Jeff Kan Lee, 2008, Press Democrat.

After 24 years on Healdsburg’s square, Ralph’s Bistro has closed.

Owner Ralph Tingle sold the restaurant just days ago to financial/winery magnate Bill Foley. 

“It’s emotional for me, after 24 years, but I need a clean slate,” said Tingle, who called the purchase “unorthodox” in its speed. With just a few days notice, Tingle said he was “emptying the bar” and eating the last of his famous shoestring fries with friends on the final night of the bistro, while locals ponder what’s coming next for the space.

Foley has confirmed the sale, though he said there are still a few ends to be tied up. He plans to close the restaurant for about three months for upgrades, and reopen space with a “retro” feel. No names for the restaurant yet, but the awesome Shane McAnelly of Chalkboard (which Foley also owns) will be heading up the menu.

Tingle attempted to sell the restaurant a year ago, but the transaction fell through. He then revamped the menu and re-opened as Ralph’s Martini Bar. But despite the changes, his heart has really been in a new project–the roadhouse he’s been working on north of the square. Tingle hopes to open the that sometime this summer.

But for the time being Tingle said he’s happy to just “walk into the sunset with a smile.” 

Congrats.

Bread to Bakin: Sonoma County Artisan Producers We Love

rEvolution Bread (photo Facebook)
rEvolution Bread (photo Facebook)

There are as many small, independent food and drink producers in Sonoma County as there are dreams, and that’s a good thing for all of us. Inspired by our plethora of flora and fauna, these small-but-growing artisans are on the road to hitting it big. Or just making a splash in the local market. Either way, they’re products and producers worth seeking out at local grocers or through online stores.

Clearly there are hundreds of amazing artisans to choose from, but here are a few that have really piqued our interest…

Mama Baretta: Inspired by the delicious Italian cookies of her father’s bakery, but concerned about her son’s many allergies, Debra Baretta began a baked goods business focused on gluten-free, non-GMO, organic, allergy-friendly foods her family and friends could eat without a guilty conscience or health problems. She’s expanded to include scones, multi-seed breads, cookies, cupcakes and special occasion cakes. Selected products available at Oliver’s or Pacific markets and Saturdays at the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market at the Wells Fargo Center.

rEvolution Bread: Stenciled imprints of a raised fist holding sheafs of wheat are a trademark of baker Eli Colvin’s loaves, as well as a philosophy. Using whole grains including heirloom eiknkorn and emmer wheat, his breads have an old world quality and rustic appeal that foodies love. Find rEvolution breads at the Petaluma East-side farm market (501 N. McDowell, Petaluma).

Sonomic: This almost-vinegar made by Sonoma Portworks is far less acidic than vinegar, with a sweet, balsamic-like flavor. The idea is to drizzle it over salads or use it for cooking, but we love the idea of splashing a bit atop ice cream or even adding the light Muscat-based “Gold” Sonomic to club soda as a sweet shrub. Available online at sonomaportworks.com.

Maple Sea Bakin' from The Great and Wonderful Sea of Change Trading Company
Maple Sea Bakin’ from The Great and Wonderful Sea of Change Trading Company

The Great and Wonderful Sea of Change Trading Company: There are more than 400 types of edible seaweed in the ocean, and this Windsor-based company is hoping you’ll be willing to try at least a few of them — especially if its in chocolate. Cole Meeker, his wife Anastasia Emmons and business partner Courtney Smith are the inventors of Sea Bakin, a salty snack available in flavors like Thai BBQ, maple and garden veggie (seriously addictive) as well as their new line of seaweed chocolate bars made with wild seaweed, dark chocolate and coconut sugar. Available at Community Market and online at seafochangetrading.com.

Kefiry: Thousands of years ago, the story goes, a shepherd filled his leather water pouch with cool, crisp water from a high mountain stream in the Caucasus Mountains. In the water were grains of kefir, which naturally fermented in the water, creating a beverage rich with good bacteria — what we now call probiotics. At least that’s how the story goes. Tom Boyd, owner of the Kefiry in Sebastopol ferments and sells his naturally-fermented kefin-water sodas, called Enlivened, along with frozen kefir pops. “We are the first live-cultured soda sold in America,” says Boyd. Like dairy kefir which has been popularized as a health tonic, water kefir is a fermented food that is thought to promote digestion and healthy flora in the digestive system. Unlike dairy kefir, water kefir grains are lactose free. But its a lot easier just to explain water kefir as naturally fermented soda that contains no alcohol and only a small amount of sugar. Flavors include Holy Basil, Dragon’s Blood (with hibiscus), Tulsi Kola (which tastes the most similar to Coke) and lemon-ginger. Available at 972 Gravenstein Hwy South, #120, Sebastopol and on tap at SHED, 25 North St., Healdsburg.

cocoaplanet
Cocoa Planet:
 Someone just answered your prayers. Rich, creamy, dark chocolate with “pearls” of flavor (mint, mandarin orange, vanilla espresso, salted caramel, deep dark truffle. Turns out you can get incredible flavor without all the sugar and just 96 calories per disk. This is a Chocolate Revolution! Available at Oliver’s Market, 461 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, (707) 284-3530 or at cocoaplanet.com.

Little Apple Treats: Using organic apples from their west County farm, Dan Lehrer and Joanne Krueger have become well-known for their Rose and Cocoa nib caramels, awarded top honors at the prestigious Good Food Awards in 2016.  Using a 1906 candy wrapping machine they’ve affectionately named Virgil (who can be very temperamental), Dan and Joanne are part of a new food movement based on simple, honest, handmade food we can all celebrate. Their other products include apple biscotti, apple cider caramels, apple granola and apple cider vinegar. Available online at littleappletreats.com.

Firefly Chocolate from the town of Windsor, in Sonoma County, is 85% organic cacao. Photo: Heather Irwin
Firefly Chocolate from the town of Windsor, in Sonoma County, is 85% organic cacao. Photo: Heather Irwin

Firefly Chocolate: Producer Jonas Ketterle pays homage to the old ways of chocolate-making with his Windsor-based chocolateria Firefly Chocolate. Inspired by the chocolate-making traditions of the Zapotec town of Teotitlan del Valle, Ketterle learned how the locals fire-roasted and hand-peeled the beans “within sight of their sacred mountain,” stone grinding and sweetening the powder with honey. 85% cocao (that’s really dark), the resulting organic chocolate bar is more like a fine wine than a Hershey Kiss. Bitter tannins are mellowed by the perfumed flavors of rose and orange, making this a bar you’ll savor rather than snarf in a single sitting. Available at Community Market.

Sherry, from Comet Corn, gives great hugs. And makes great popcorn.
Sherry, from Comet Corn, gives great hugs. And makes great popcorn.

Comet Corn: This mom and pop start up based in Santa Rosa was inspired by an evening around a campfire when owner Sherry Soleski’s partner, Jeff Phillips, served a bowl of seasoned popcorn to some friends while watching the Hale-Bopp Comet whiz by in the night sky. Now the couple hawk their ever-growing lineup of flavors (Bloody Mary, Maple Syrup, the super-popular Hippie Dust, Coconut Curry) at local grocers and, after a stellar Kickstarter that raised more than $20,000, at various Northern California events including the Sonoma County fair, National Heirloom Expo, Kate Wolf Festival and annual Earlefest. Available at Community Market.

Al Hartman and Brenda Chatelain of The Smoked Olive in Petaluma.
Al Hartman and Brenda Chatelain of The Smoked Olive in Petaluma.

Smoked Olive: When you can count Chefs Tyler Florence, Emeril Lagasse, John Ash, Ming Tsai, and a certain President of the United States among your culinary fan-base, you know you’re onto something. But the owners of The Smoked Olive in Petaluma still say they often have to get people to stop and taste their pungent olive oils before they fully understand — and appreciate — the unique flavor. Co-owner Al Hartman is the “smoke whisperer”, able to smoke just about anything. Partner Brenda Chatelain explains their unusual smoke-infused extra-virgin olive oil as “a marriage of two primal things: Smoke and oil. It just creates a taste that’s a combination that I think strikes something from our cave days.” Their Whiskey Smoked Brown Sugar is a newer addition, used for meat marinates or baking. Available at Sur La Table (2323 Magowan Dr., Santa Rosa).

DaVero Olive OilRidgley Evers has some strong opinions about olive oil, which he’s never shy about sharing. One of a handful of olive growers behind Sonoma County’s artisan oil boom, Evers and his wife, chef Colleen McGlynn, have made a career out of meticulously understanding the nuances of flavor, balance and timing when it comes to their oils. The 4,500 trees on their Dry Creek property trace their heritage from a handful of saplings they imported from Lucca, Italy (a Tuscan region with weather much like Sonoma County). McGlynn and Evers, who count chef Mario Batali among their admirers. Their flagship EVOO has all the qualities of a great California olive oil — fresh grassiness, a mild bitterness and a sneaky pungency. “Three coughs are a compliment,” says Evers. The couple also produce a line of jams and preserves including gingered pear, plum, Meyer lemon marmalade and quince jam. Available at local grocers and at their Healdsburg tasting room (766 Westside Road, Healdsburg).

Want to tell us about your favorites? Continue the conversation…

Fieri Walks Away From The California Restaurants That Made Him

Guy Fieri is walking away from his signature restaurants, Johnny Garlic's and Tex Wasabi's.
Guy Fieri is walking away from his signature restaurants, Johnny Garlic’s and Tex Wasabi’s.

There’s no joy in Guy Fieri’s Flavortown today.

This morning, reps announced that celebrity chef Guy Fieri will be walking away from his signature restaurants — Johnny Garlic’s and Tex Wasabi’s — in Northern California. Ironically, these are the very restaurants that made His Spikiness the reigning King of Food Network.

Fieri’s longtime business partner Steve Gruber will take over of the restaurants after signing an agreement to purchase Fieri’s stock and take sole ownership of Johnny Garlic’s Inc. The company’s holdings include seven Johnny Garlic’s restaurants in Northern California (including two in Sonoma County) and Tex Wasabi’s in Santa Rosa.

Last December, Fieri signaled his intent to dissolve the chain of seven restaurants in a petition to California’s secretary of state. Gruber counter-sued to block the dissolution by purchasing Fieri’s stake in the company. The two sides were in a standoff for several months  over the price for Fieri’s shares of the company. The sale price for Fieri’s stock was not released. Reps for Fieri have not yet issued a statement.

In what was described as an amicable ending of their business partnership, Gruber states his interest in continuing the Johnny Garlic’s and Tex Wasabi’s brand, with ownership of “all the current and future Johnny Garlic’s and Tex Wasabi’s restaurants.”

“It’s an exciting day,” said Gruber in a prepared statement. “I started Johnny Garlic’s as a partnership nearly 20 years ago and after two decades, it’s an opportunity for the brand to evolve and grow. We’re taking time to really listen to our guests, rework some of our operations, and plan for some big announcements early this summer to kick off our 20th anniversary,” he said.

Fieri continues to own several other restaurants including Guy’s American Kitchen and Bar in New York and Guy Fieri’s Vegas Kitchen and Bar. 

The remaining Johnny Garlic’s restaurants are located on Farmer’s Lane in Santa Rosa and in Windsor, along with locations in Roseville, Dublin, San Jose, Bakersfield and Brentwood. A Tex Wasabi’s in Sacramento closed in 2013, leaving Santa Rosa as the sole location. The local location has seen its share of ups and downs, with a 19-month closure in 2009 and another recent closure “for repairs” in December 2015.

Fieri and Gruber opened the first Johnny Garlic’s in 1996, and Fieri’s outlandish dishes and in-your-face style helped propel him to superstardom on Food Network’s “Next Food Network Star” competition in 2006.

Stay tuned for more details as the story develops.

Good Earth Natural Foods Owner Purchases Tara Firma Farms

Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)
Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)

Mark Squire of Fairfax’s Good Earth Natural  Foods has purchased Tara Firm Farms, the 250 acre Petaluma farm property formerly owned by Tara and Craig Smith. Squire, a longtime organic foods proponent and board member of the Non-GMO Project, has big plans for the rambling organic ranch, but is also committed to maintaining the stewardship and vision of the Smiths.

“We’re just really excited to be stepping into that legacy,” said Squire, will live on the property with his family, including his daughter and grandchild.

Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)
Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)

Tara Firma Farm, which reportedly sold for $4 million, raises beef, pigs and a substantial flock of laying hens. The produce crops have not been in production for about a year, according to Squire, but he hopes to get them up and running soon. Nearly all of the meat and produce will continue to go to Tara Firma’s 700-plus CSA membership, but Squire hopes that eventually some of the food will be sold at his two grocery stores.

Though he’s already started a composting project at the farm, using the food waste from his Fairfax and Mill Valley stores, Squire said that the farming and ranching of hundreds of animals is a bit daunting.

“For me, personally, and a number of us, that are involved its a huge learning thing. We would remiss to say that we know the hell what we’re doing, so we’re eager to learn and open-eyed and eager to learn,” said Squire. That’s why he’s bringing in one of organic farming’s heaviest hitters, Joel Salatin, to help. Salatin has been a consultant for the farm since it’s inception in 2009.

Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)
Joel Salatin at Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)

“He’s been a mentor to the farm since its inception. I’m eager to learn from him,” said Squire. Salatin will be at the farm on April 23 for an all day event including a walking tour, speech and farm-to-table dinner (tickets available here).

Tara Firma became a model for sustainable food production, organic farming and community stewardship in the relatively short time that the couple owned it. Last March, however, an exhausted Tara Smith said that the explosive growth of their 700-plus member CSA had just gotten too big for she and her husband to handle.

In Sept. 2015, Victorian Farmstead Meats’ Adam Parks and business partner, Adam Taggart, took over Tara Firma’s CSA and business operations. The two will continue to oversee the the business aspects of Tara Firma and Victorian Farmstead.

Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)
Tara Firma Farms in Petaluma (Facebook)

“If we could design a perfect partner for this business and property we couldn’t have dreamed of another person,” said Parks of Squire’s involvement both at the property and in the CSA business.

Parks nearly lost his sustainable meat and butchering business less than two years ago, but after partnering with financial consultant Adam Taggart has grown his operation into one of the largest CSA’s in California, with more than 850 subscribers. This year, Victorian Farmstead Meats and Tara Firma’s CSA will sell the equivalent of 100 cows, 200 pigs, 15,000 chickens, 80 lambs and 8,000 dozen eggs.

“It’s been a perfect storm for us,” said Parks of the last year. “We’re all going to take this business to another level. We’re growing from what Tara built, and now have a perfect partnership (with Squire), Taggart’s business acumen and our lifelong passion for the land,” he said.

Check out this video about the history of Good Earth Natural Foods