Around Healdsburg with Erika Dawkins

By Karen Kizer

Bon Ton Studio owner Erika Dawkins remembers her parents having lots of visitors. After traveling and studying fashion, she now understands why her hometown attracts so many — like those come from- afar wine interns working the fall harvest. Dawkins met and married one of those interns, Ross Dawkins, a South African winemaker.

Ross, Erika and Sophie Dawkins. (Courtesy of Bon Ton Studio)

Bon Ton Studio is the brick-and-mortar iteration of the online business Erika started while living in southwest Australia for her husband’s job. It offers imported housewares and apparel in her signature

aesthetic: natural materials, a subdued palette, and punches of vibrant color. Her elegant storefront sits across from several businesses owned by friends from her school days, including the El Sombrero taco shop and Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar. She laughs, “It’s like a Healdsburg High School reunion on this corner.”

Click through the above gallery to see some of Erika’s favorite Healdsburg spots.

 

Spice Up Fall with This Chile Recipe

By Michele Anna Jordan

The names of fall chiles are as colorful as the chiles themselves: Lemon Drop, Satan’s Kiss, Trinidad Scorpion, Carolina Reaper. Cinderella gets its name from its squat, pumpkin-like shape, and the Lunchbox is sweet and mild enough for a child’s lunch.

All chiles start out green; some stay green to maturity. Others take on an array of fall colors as they ripen, from pale yellow to orange, red, purple, even chocolate. Chile season in Sonoma continues until the first frost, usually sometime in November in most areas of the county. Some farmers anticipate this moment, pulling plants and hanging them in a cool barn, where they can be harvested for a few more weeks.

Stuffed Poblanos with Corn Salsa

Serves 4

• 8 poblano chiles

• 4 to 6 ounces Vella Mezzo Secco, Bellwether Carmody, Matos St. George, or similar cheese, sliced

For corn salsa

• 1 large ear of fresh corn

• 2 tablespoons minced red onion

• 1 small serrano chile, minced

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 tablespoon lime juice

• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

• salt to taste

For serving

• 8 corn tortillas, hot but not crisp

• 1 lime, cut in wedges 

First, make the corn salsa. Cut the kernels off of a large ear of fresh corn, and place in a small bowl. Toss the kernels with the remaining ingredients and a couple pinches of salt. Adjust salt and lime juice to taste.

Using tongs, sear the chiles over a high flame or very hot burner, turning as their skins take on color and loosen. Set aside, cover, and let cool. When cool, preheat the oven to 350 degrees, then use your fingers to peel off the charred skins of the chiles as completely as possible. Cut off the stem ends and pull out the seed cores. Divide the cheese between the chiles and insert into the cavity. Put the stuffed peppers on a lightly oiled baking sheet, set on the middle rack of the oven, and cook until the cheese is melted, about 6 to 7 minutes.

Remove the chiles from the oven. Top with corn salsa, and enjoy hot with corn tortillas and lime wedges.

Volunteers Harvest Surplus Produce for Locals in Need

By Ethan Varian
Duskie Estes with the Farm to Pantry program, Friday, July 10, 2020, picks peaches at a west Dry Creek ranch (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2020

A growing number of volunteers are working to make sure that Sonoma’s fall bounty gets to locals in need by harvesting surplus produce that would otherwise go to waste. Duskie Estes, a popular local chef and Food Network star, says her Healdsburg nonprofit, Farm to Pantry, has over 180 gleaners gathering produce six days a week for food pantries and aid groups.

And Dani Wilcox, founder of Sonoma County Gleaners, says more residents have asked her group to pick fruit and vegetables from smaller backyard gardens. “The people that have that surplus feel they won’t let it go to waste this year,” she explains.

David Goodman, chief executive of the Redwood Empire Food Bank, says

gleaned produce is often a key ingredient in the premade entrees the food pantry makes and distributes.

These donations are needed, especially as the organization has seen demand for its emergency food boxes increase by 300% since the pandemic began. “It’s an opportunity for people to engage in hunger relief who didn’t necessarily have the ability to contribute in other ways,” he says.

How One Healdsburg Restaurant is Mastering Socially-Distanced Dining

By Dana Rebmann
Day boat scallops with summer squash and tomato confit Wedding at Barndiva
Day boat scallops with summer squash and tomato confit at Barndiva in Healdsburg. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

We’re all craving visits to our favorite restaurants, without face masks and coronavirus concerns. But, until we enter the post-pandemic era, restaurant owners across the country are working hard to make our dining experience as enjoyable and safe as possible. While we are impressed with the incredible efforts all of our local restaurants continue to make, we particularly enjoyed a recent lunch outing at Barndiva.

The owners of this Healdsburg restaurant, known for its farm-to-fork fare, seem to have thought of everything when adjusting to our new reality.

Reservations for lunch and dinner are required. When you check-in alongside the building — this is the closest you’ll get to stepping inside the restaurant — your hands are spritzed with hand sanitizer. (On our visit, they used sanitizer made by local distilleries Sonoma Brothers Distilling and Sipsong Spirits).

Before you are shown to your table, there’s a temperature check of all diners in your party. This is just the first in a series of steps taken to keep diners and employees healthy.

Menus are printed on cardstock paper, but they’re disposable. A table number and phone number are clearly noted at the top; the Wi-Fi network and password can be found at the bottom. Gone are the days of waiting for the server to appear: all ordering is done via text from diners’ personal cellphones. Patrons can also call the number if they prefer to have a conversation. Communication with restaurant staff during our visit was swift, spirited, and seamless.

“I really just thought about how we could best use the technology we already have to mitigate the interactions between our employees and the general public,” said Lukka Feldman, co-founder and owner of Barndiva.

Perhaps a sign of the times, Feldman says only a handful of diners have arrived empty handed and had to run to their car or nearby hotel room to pick up their cellphone.

“I would say 90 percent of the feedback is overwhelmingly positive,” said Feldman. “Not just for right now, but many have said they prefer this style of service and would like to see this remaining after we are all allowed to roam around unmasked and get back to ‘normal’.”

After the meal, the credit card used to secure your reservation is automatically charged to cover your tab. A 19 percent service charge is added to all bills.

It’s minimal contact at Barndiva, but the exceptional quality of the food and setting remains. Vases still overflow with cut flowers from the Philo farm and, although I didn’t count, I think the trees in the garden now outnumber the tables. Aside from the servers and staff in gloves and masks, having lunch at Barndiva almost felt normal.

Cafe Citti Leaving Kenwood

By Heather Irwin
10/28/2012: D4: PC: Cafe Citti in Kenwood on Wednesday, October 17, 2012. (Jeff Kan Lee/ The Press Democrat)

The owners of Kenwood’s iconic Italian eatery, Cafe Citti, have announced they will be leaving the Sonoma Valley and moving into the former Whole Pie location on Fourth Street in Santa Rosa. Also, the restaurant will end in-house dining, which has been limited to outdoor seating only during the pandemic, and instead focus on take-out at the new location.

Luca and Linda Citti cited a combination of reasons for the move, including the need for renovations to the building they’ve leased for more than 30 years, coronavirus restrictions, power outages and the recent Glass fire that burned through parts of Kenwood.

The family-friendly roadhouse is a longtime favorite of locals, winemakers and ranchers with its approachable Italian classics, stellar Caesar salad and huge sandwiches. In my teens, it was a much-anticipated pit stop on the seemingly interminable drives from Santa Rosa to Sonoma, where we got the tuna-egg-mayo sandwiches I’ll never forget. The restaurant also was featured on Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.”

Related: Guy Fieri's Favorite Sonoma County Restaurants

Here is the full announcement from the owners of Cafe Citti:

“It is with a heavy heart that after 30 years of business in Kenwood, we announce that Cafe Citti will be relocating. Our landlords have made the decision to address the stability of the building and will be making renovations that will take several months. Due to the new restrictions placed upon us during this time of Covid, the annual PSPS shut off‘s, and most recently the Glass fire, we will be leaving the dining portion of our business behind and we will concentrate our focus on continuing with our take-out business at a new location in Santa Rosa. We will be occupying the space next door to Hank’s Creekside at 2792 4th Street in Santa Rosa and we look forward to seeing your friendly faces there. On behalf of ourselves and our staff we would like to thank you for your patronage over the last 30 years and particularly the community of Kenwood for supporting us through thick and thin. Our hearts will always be in Kenwood but we are excited about the next chapter.
Please stay tuned for an opening date.
Luca and Linda Citti”

Sudden Closure for Popular Downtown Santa Rosa Restaurant

By Heather Irwin
Bollywood Bar & Clay Oven on the plaza in downtown Santa Rosa. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Five weeks of smoke and ash proved to be the final blow to downtown Santa Rosa restaurant Bollywood, which marked its last day in business Friday after months of reduced service amid pandemic restrictions.

Owner Sonu Chandi of Chandi Hospitality Group said that despite encouraging patio dining for several months, ongoing prohibitions on indoor dining coupled with an early and prolonged fire season made the Fourth Street restaurant a losing proposition.

“We tried, we really went out of our way, and Bollywood was a successful concept that people loved, but the odds were just against us,” said Chandi. “You can’t eat inside and then you can’t be outside. What do you do?”

The upscale Indian eatery was an homage to the Chandi family’s Indian roots and a restaurant their patriarch had planned to open himself six years ago in Santa Rosa. It had reached its two-year milestone just days before the closure announcement Thursday and was part of a portfolio of downtown restaurants owned by the Chandis, including Stout Brothers on Fourth Street and Mercato Pasta and Produce (formerly Bibi’s Burger Bar) on Third Street which both closed this year.

The Chandis closed County Bench, their previous restaurant in the Fourth Street space, to make way for Bollywood.

Another Chandi venture, Beer Baron, is a joint project with Bay area restaurateurs Harpreet and Manraj Judge and will remain open. Chandi said that property is doing well.

Bollywood joins a growing list of Sonoma County food establishments that have closed since March in a nightmare year for restaurants. Bistro 29, Acre Coffee, Bruno’s and Whole Pie folded in Santa Rosa, Tisza Bistro and Jaded Toad were shuttered in Windsor and Brass Rabbit in Healdsburg, Osteria Stellina in Point Reyes and Whisper Sisters in Petaluma have all closed.

“It remains very challenging for our restaurants to stay open without indoor dining. They’ve been hit again and again this year between the pandemic and the fires and having to constantly shift their business models to accommodate,” said Cadance Allinson, executive director for Santa Rosa’s Downtown District, an affiliate of the Santa Rosa Metro Chamber. “We’re doing everything we can to try and keep them going and encourage our community to support them however they’re most comfortable ― whether dining outdoors or ordering takeout.”

In Sonoma County, restaurants continue to pay sky-high rents ― challenging enough before the pandemic, but untenable for many as public health restrictions continue to curb business and federal disaster loans dry up.

While Chandi declined to discuss specifics about the monthly lease cost for Bollywood, he said that finding creative solutions to rent issues should be a high priority for landlords. “Many more restaurants will close if they don’t,” he said.

On the income side, Bollywood’s revenue was down more than half from 2019, hampered by coronavirus restrictions that began in March and the fires that erupted first in August and continue to burn. Chandi said that last year the restaurant grossed more than $1.48 million. For the same period this year, they grossed around $600,000 — not enough to keep up the lease and cover other overhead, he said.

“We’ve pushed hard to keep it going, and the whole team put so much effort in but we’re dealing with labor challenges and inconsistent revenue,” Chandi said.

Chandi said his family’s hospitality group has sustained itself with its diversified holdings, including eight Mountain Mike’s pizza restaurants in Sonoma and Mendocino County and franchise management of more than a dozen others. Chandi said another Mountain Mike’s is in development in Cloverdale.

The built-in, quick-service delivery model for pizzerias has boosted that business during the pandemic. QSR magazine, a restaurant industry publication, reports that 61% of Americans have ordered pizza delivery during the pandemic.

In comparison, low-margin, high-overhead restaurants with large staffs are a bigger risk. Chandi said the family business expanded into that sector because he has long been a cheerleader for the downtown Santa Rosa restaurant scene and wanted to add to the quality and vibrancy with unique, locally owned eateries.

“With these (downtown) restaurants we’ve gone out of our comfort zone as entrepreneurs because we thought they’d be a great addition to the local restaurant scene, but obviously, these were going to be the most challenged ones,” he said, referring to the pandemic.

The closure of Bollywood is especially emotional for the family. Prior to opening the restaurant, the family had operated the space as County Bench, a high-end California-style restaurant with a large selection of wine. When that concept flagged, the family turned to their roots.

Chandi patriarch Gurcharan Singh Chandi spent nearly two decades as the owner of an Indian restaurant in Walnut Creek and in 2014 planned to open a restaurant called Monsoon in downtown Santa Rosa. The restaurant never panned out, and the family tested the waters with a popular “secret” Indian menu at Bibi’s Burger Bar before opening Bollywood. The Chandis hired high-profile Miami chef Niven Patel to create the original Bollywood menu.

For now, Chandi isn’t saying a final goodbye to the Bollywood concept.

“I envision Bollywood will come back. I truly think we built something special, with a future. When and where time will tell,” he said.

First Look: Flavor Bistro Returns

By Heather Irwin
After closing their Santa Rosa courthouse square restaurant in 2016, Flavor Bistro has opened in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

In 2016, when Flavor Bistro in downtown Santa Rosa closed, there was a collective groan. Gone was the place your boss took the team after a big project launch. Gone was that perfect not-too-expensive spot to take mom and dad to dinner when they visited, to meet for a first date or escape for date night.

We didn’t appreciate you, Flavor Bistro, until you disappeared from our lives. You were the “something for everyone” place that was never too avant garde or divisive, not too spicy nor bland, reasonably priced and good for kids as well as grandpa’s resolute order of well-done pork chops no matter what else was on the menu.

After you left, we paced around the empty restaurant front for months, seeking signs of life that never came to fruition. We suffered from bomba cravings daily. There were many rumors and false alarms. Most of us finally gave up in hopelessness for nearly almost five years — until news broke that Flavor Bistro was really, really, for sure returning, this time in Sebastopol.

It’s exceedingly rare for a restaurant to reopen and even more rare for it to be just as good. But a much-needed Wine Country miracle seemed to have happened when a pile of takeout meals from Flavor appeared in my kitchen after a long, awful, exhausting day, courtesy of my husband.

Like you, I’ve been mired in exhaustion and burnout for the last six months and craving carbs in a ravenous sort of way. Removing pasta salad, Goldfish crackers or a Bob Evan’s tub of sour cream and chives mashed potatoes out of my claw-like hands is now futile unless there’s something infinitely better — like pillows of butternut squash ravioli in sage brown butter with walnut gremolata or a pork chop in a pool of cream sauce with gratin potatoes or a buttery apple tart with caramel sauce and Flavor Bistro’s famous dessert bombas.

Oh yes, friends, they’re all back. Did I mention the crab cakes with crispy shoestring yams?

Before you get too wrapped up in the menu, however, I do have some bad news. It’s quite abbreviated and some favorites — the Singapore noodles, short ribs, breakfasts and Croque Madame — haven’t made the cut. I don’t doubt that will change as they bring back lunch (and possibly breakfast), but do manage your expectations.

I’m going to mention here, too, the prices, which are part of the charm.

What I especially appreciated with the takeout dishes was the care and thought put into the packaging. I’ve received far too many sloppy, gloppy, drippy, gross bags of mystery food. This time, each entree arrived as neatly put together as it would have on a plate at the restaurant. Oh, Flavor Bistro, we’ve missed you, and you’ve come back to us with your Sonoma County comfort food at just the moment we need you most.

Butternut Ravioli with toasted sage butter, parmigiano, and walnut gremolata from Flavor Bistro in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Butternut Ravioli with toasted sage butter, parmigiano, and walnut gremolata from Flavor Bistro in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Best Bets

Sauteed Dungeness Crab Cakes, $10.95: Perfect in every way but one: I hate red bell pepper in my crab cakes, because it overpowers the crab. Your experience may differ, and frankly, it’s not a reason I wouldn’t order them every time.

Salmon Carpaccio, $9.95: House-cured salmon with capers and olive oil is lip-smackingly rich. Piled onto toasted bruschetta with balsamic (which, even a little soggy the next day, held up).

Butternut Ravioli, $10.95/$13.95: I’ve already sung its praises, but it’s the taste of fall with fried sage leaves and nutty brown butter.

Molly’s Chicken, $12.95: It’s not a huge portion, but the slow-cooked chicken with warm, sweet Mediterranean spices, white wine and citrus is worth it. Savoring the pureed potatoes, at least for me, is like tucking into bed on a cold night under a cozy comforter.

Pork chop, $14.95: Nicely braised chop covered with dried fruit compote in a cream sauce.

Caramelized Apple Galette, $6.95: Crispy crust, soft apples and caramel drizzle served with ice cream. Mine melted, but it was even better after a few hours in the freezer.

Dinner only for now, open 4-10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Outdoor patio, limited parking, simple online ordering at flavorbistro.com. 7365 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-861-3642.

Mi Ranchito Opens in Former Bistro 29 Space, Plus More Dining News

By Heather Irwin

Our fish tacos on their way from the new Mi Ranchito restaurant seemed to have stalled out somewhere between the downtown Santa Rosa post office and the fairgrounds. Our Uber Eats “driver” was actually on a bike, and as we watched his GPS movement grind to a stop, we were worried, frankly, that perhaps someone had accosted “Ted,” our delivery person, for those delicious tacos.

Fortunately, within a few minutes, the much-anticipated tacos arrived, still hot and absolutely delicious with their pineapple sauce, chipotle aioli and sweet corn tamal (the world’s tastiest little nugget of sweetened masa). Heavenly hosts, those Baja tacos were good, and they were about to make my list of some of the best tacos in town. Ted was safe as well. Phew.

Mi Ranchito recently opened at the former Bistro 29 in downtown Santa Rosa, the third location for restaurant owners Jaime Rodriguez and Jose Contreras. They also operate in Cotati and Larkfield.

More than a taqueria, Mi Ranchito has a menu that includes most of the usual taqueria suspects — burritos, excellent tacos, tortas and enchiladas. They go a step further with specialty items like fajitas, creamy chipotle chicken breast, molcajete, whole fried fish and ceviche.

Perhaps our favorite dish, along with our tacos, was the cochinita pibil, a slow-roasted citrus-infused pork dish from the Yucatan. Served with cilantro rice, beans, pickled onions and a few microgreens, it too was snatch-worthy, so we’re happy our delivery cyclist got that one to us, too. The only complaint? I think my jamaica agua fresca may have gotten lost along the way. Overall, however, excellent service, flavor and unique delivery for the win.

If you want to try Mi Ranchito in person, they’ve created a darling outdoor patio on Fifth Street near Ausiello’s. Open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, 620 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-623-9258.

More dining news: Scowley’s and Grata opening

Once upon a time in Bolinas, there was Scowley’s Burgers, near Smiley’s Saloon and Snarlie’s Deli. In homage to the gone-but-not-forgotten Scowley’s of his youth, Robert Gaustad has opened a new Scowley’s in Petaluma. The soft-opening menu includes a very simple, very focused list of quarter-pound grass-fed burgers from Stemple Creek with toppings like homemade Russian dressing and tomato jam, along with vegan burgers, steamed Casper’s hot dogs and chili dogs. Fries, chopped salad also available. We’re stoked to go in for a try. 229 N. McDowell, Petaluma, scowleys.com, 707-981-7746.

Also Grata, which we mentioned a few weeks ago, will be opening shortly at the former Chinois space in Windsor. The preview menu includes lots of fresh pastas, burrata, chicken parmesan, albacore crudo, fritto misto, halibut piccata, wine-braised short ribs and seared scallops. Stay tuned for more details.

How to Create Your Own Space

By Heather Irwin

How do you create a personal space that reflects you? It’s a question many of us are trying to answer as we hunker down in homes, garage offices, and outdoor oases that are more functional than fanciful.

In the second episode of our three-part virtual series, Women In Conversation at Home, host Amy Gutierrez explores the art of creating space to live, think, and breathe for yourself and those around you. This free event highlights local women making a change in their community.

On Oct. 14, designers Alysia Andriola, Lindsay Wallstrum, and musician Eki Shola, will teach us about honoring physical and mental space and transforming their environment into something magical. Jam-maker Leslie Goodrich gets canning and Duskie Estes has a tasty cocktail recipe. Sonoma Magazine editors Heather Irwin and Sofia Englund will also be joining us in this episode.

Sounds of Healing, Eki Shola

Eki Shola at the 2018 Railroad Square Music Festival. Photo by Philip Pavliger
Eki Shola at the 2018 Railroad Square Music Festival. Photo by Philip Pavliger

A physician turned full-time musician, Eki Shola uses her neo-soul vocals to bring healing and peace to her community.  A wildfire survivor who lost her home — along with three unreleased albums and instruments — in the 2017 Tubbs fire, Shola is no stranger to tragedy and rebuilding. Putting her feelings into music, Shola’s rich, expressive voice won her spots on the NPR Tiny Desk series and invitations to perform in New York and London. A talent to watch, her music reminds us of intimate singer-songwriters like Lauryn Hill and Meshell Ndegeocello. Her prescription for happiness? Music.

All Set, Alysia Andriola

A table setting created by Alysia Andriola.
A table setting created by Alysia Andriola.

Prop styling and set design are as much about creating a mood as they are about showing the objects in their best light. Alysia goes one step further with her projects, capturing the essence of an oyster on ice or a roasted carrot or a fried chicken sandwich so lovely you can’t help but want to reach into the photo to taste it.

As she describes it, she works from scratch to build a universe of the seen and unseen that engages the viewer’s imagination. Find out her secrets to turn life into art, chaos into calm and stories into aspirations.

A Little Help From Your Fronds, Lindsay Wallstrum

Lindsay Wallstrum of Leaf + Lolo creates an indoor escape with plants. (Courtesy of Lindsay Wallstrum/Leaf and Lolo)
Lindsay Wallstrum of Leaf + Lolo creates an indoor escape with plants. Courtesy photo.

The proud owner of more than 100 houseplants and an avid green thumb, interior plant designer Lindsay Wallstrum has made it her mission to incorporate leafy, calming greens in her clients’ work and family spaces. The owner of Leaf + Lolo in Petaluma, Wallstrum recently left a corporate job to follow her passion and offer curbside plant delivery services and wellness-focused interiors inspired by plants. See more of Lindsay’s green interior designs here.

Jam On It, Leslie Goodrich

Leslie Goodrich originally retired in her late 50's but decided she wanted to make money again and opened LaLa's Jam Bar and Urban Farmstand retail location in Petaluma when she was 72. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Leslie Goodrich originally retired in her late 50’s but decided she wanted to make money again and opened LaLa’s Jam Bar and Urban Farmstand.  John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The only secret to making delicious jam is taking the time to do it in small batches, with love, according to Goodrich. After a lifetime of careers — from real estate to teaching — her passion for making delicious preserves from local fruit has jelled into a full-time job as Chief Fruit Officer of Lala’s Jam Bar and Farmstand in Petaluma.

Bacon Booze, Duskie Estes

Duskie Estes in 2016 (Erik Castro/ Sonoma Magazine)

Chef and non-profit director Duskie Estes loves a good cocktail, especially if it involves bacon. She’ll show the tricks to making a smoky-good beverage you’ll never forget.

Harvest Fair Food Awards Draws New Entrants, Novel Creations

By Diane Peterson
Harvest Fair Award winning chocolate truffle cake from Costeaux. Facebook by permission.

The Sonoma County Harvest Fair Professional Food Competition drew fewer entrants this year for its annual taste-off of hundreds of local products, from bread and desserts to ice cream and olive oil.

But there were newcomers who rubbed shoulders with long-time participants such as Costeaux Bakery of Healdsburg, which took home the Best of Show award in Professional French Bread for its Sour Boule as well as the Sweepstakes Bread award and Best of Show Cake/Pastry for its decadent Truffle Cake.

The contest only drew one entrant in the normally crowded Appetizer & Hors d’Oeuvres category: Tacos El Pelon of Santa Rosa took home four top awards and two double golds, including Best of Show Appetizer for its Cheese Tamal topped with Beef Tongue.

To reflect the pandemic’s required pivots for restaurateurs and caterers, the competition added a new category this year for Shelter in Place (SIP) entrees and side dishes.

“We have tried to keep current with the times,” said Anne Vercelli, competition coordinator. “The chicken enchiladas (from Mangia!) won for the Best of Show (SIP) entree, and a new vendor was creative with pretzels (for Best of Show SIP side dish).”

Patricia Rohrer of Mangia! in Santa Rosa staffs a corporate cafeteria for The Viavi Solutions at 1405 Thunderbolt Way and also offers curbside pick-up for the public out of her catering kitchen there.

The chef, who has been in the food business for 18 years, said her Best of Show SIP entree of Chicken Enchiladas was smothered in two different sauces.

“It’s a little of the green sauce, because that’s what I enjoy, and it has the red sauce as well,” she said. “Then there’s cotija cheese, rotisserie chicken, Jack cheese and cilantro.”

For the competition as a whole, Rohre entered 14 items, most of them in the category of Cakes & Pastries. By winning the most points for her gold and double gold baked goods, she also took home the Sweepstakes award for Cakes & Pastries.

“Sometimes the Best of Show and the Sweepstakes winner are not the same,” Vercelli explained. “But the Sweepstakes means that they did very well on many of the products they entered.”

Costeaux Bakery of Healdsburg won Best of Show Cake/Pastry for its Chocolate Truffle Cake, and Sonoma Sauces and Sonoma Cake Creations of Santa Rosa won Best of Show Decorated Cake for a wedding cake made with a base of Vanilla Cake layered with Mango Pinot Gris Mousse and topped with buttercream frosting.
Rohrer’s gold-medal-winning desserts included a Fresh Fruit Tart and an Apple-Cranberry pie, which she considers her signature baked good.

“The tart is elegant and pretty,” she said. “But if I were to do a throwdown with Bobby Flay, it would be the pie. … It has Grand Marnier, orange zest and dried cranberries. It’s not the brown sugar, sugary apple pie. It’s more sophisticated and Sonoma County.”

Earlier in her career, Rohrner worked for Pearson & Co. in Santa Rosa, where she met her husband. She entered the harvest fair last year, and with this year’s success to buoy her, she plans to enter again next year.

Rohrer opened Mangia! in 2012. To order from her to-go menu of breakfast items, salads and sandwiches, go to mangiacaters.square.site or call 707-494-8563.

Pretzel logic for the pandemic
Clare Hulme of Wooden Petal in Santa Rosa moved to Santa Rosa five years ago from San Francisco, where she ran her own sandwich shop. She started catering here, while exploring the many facets of baking bread. A couple of years ago, she zeroed in on craft pretzels as her target product for pop-ups around the county.

“I was trying to figure out what my next move was,” she said. “I thought the pretzel idea was a good fit for breweries and wineries, and they’re versatile enough to keep me entertained. ”

In February, she started baking out of a small kitchen next to Dierk’s Parkside Cafe in Ssnta Rosa. Then in the midst of the pandemic, all her weddings and parties were canceled.

“I took a deep breath and decided to deliver to everyone who is stuck at home,” she said. “Now people are adding on my soups or my cinnamon pretzels.”

For the Harvest Fair competition, Hulme won Best of Show Shelter-in-Place Side Dish for an assortment of fresh-baked pretzels served with her signature cheese, mustard and spinach dips.

The box includes her three most popular flavors of mini pretzels (2 ounces each): sea salt, everything and cheddar cheese. That’s the same box her loyal customers often order for their families.

“If you want to crack open a few bottles of wine or beer, the adults go for the everything with the spinach dip,” she said. “The kids go for the sea salt.”

In the Bread category, Hulme also won Best of Show Specialty Bread for her Gravenstein Apple Pretzel topped with salted caramel, a seasonal pretzel she makes in a jumbo size (5 ounces).

“The product was excellent,” Vercelli said of the winning pretzel. “It was delicious, and the apples were cooked perfectly.”

Since Gravensteins are out of season now, Hulme started making a Pear Gorgonzola Pretzel with a Honey Drizzle. She soaks the pears first in Sonoma County chardonnay.

Delivery is free with a minimum order of $25, but customers can also opt for curbside pickup at the bakery.

She starts crafting them at 5 a.m. Wednesday and continues for the next five days, boiling, baking and cooling the pretzels. Delivery is from noon to 3 p.m. on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Customers can pick up her pretzels at the bakery from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday and from 10 a.m. to noon Friday through Sunday.

For a complete menu, go to woodenpetal.com. The bakery is located at 404 Santa Rosa Ave., at the blue door to the left of Dierk’s Parkside Cafe.

Awards reveal food trends

In the Individual dessert category, the Best of Show and Best Use of Local Products went to Chai’s Gourmet of Sonoma for a refreshing Lemon Hand Pie. Bert’s Desserts of Petaluma and Society Bakery and Cafe of Sebastopol both won Sweepstakes Dessert awards for the most points overall.

The Best of Show Cookie went to Society Bakery and Cafe of Sebastopol for a Gluten-Free White Chocolate Cherry cookie.

“That was the first time a gluten-free baked product got a big award,” Vercelli said. “The gluten-free products on the table did exceptionally well.”

Best of Show Candy was awarded to Eye Candy Chocolatier of Sebastopol for its Orange Tuaca Truffle, made from an Italian brandy liqueur flavored with vanilla and citrus.

Charcuterie, Deli & Pantry has become one of the largest categories, with 12 entrants vying for three top prizes by entering a wide range of sandwiches, salads, spices, pickles and preserves.

“We had some interesting sandwiches like fried chicken, veggie, tofu and a turkey club wrap,” Vercelli said. “The spices and seasonings are growing every year … and there were savory jams such as Habanero Peach and Pomegranate Pepper.”

Flugger’s Bacon of Santa Rosa snagged Best of Show Charcuterie/Deli with its No Sugar Bacon, which impressed the judges with its flavor and texture.

Chiligods Inc. of Healdsburg won Best of Show Pantry for its “Not So Mean Green” pepper sauce, a mild yet rich hot sauce bursting with flavor.

“The judges thought it was very well balanced,” Vercelli said. “It had heat with the acidity.”

The Sweepstakes prize in Deli/Charcuterie/Pantry went to Society Bakery and Cafe of Sebastopol, which won double gold awards for its Gravenstein Apple Butter, Mixed Berry Jam and Zinful Plum Jam, among other awards.

The growing category of Ice Cream included 23 entries — the most ever in the competition —and a wide variety of flavors, from chai latte and pistachio to Meyer lemon and cardamom.

Straus Family Creamery of Petaluma won Best of Show Ice Cream for its Organic Coffee Ice Cream.

The olive oil category was judged earlier in July, when the oil grown and produced in Sonoma County was a bit more fresh.

Dry Creek Olive Co, of Geyserville won Best of Show Olive Oil for its Mission Blend of California Mission and Manzanita olive varietals. It was just one of 14 olive oils entered by Dry Creek Olive Co. in categories that ranged from delicate and medium to robust, citrus and herb.

In addition to bragging rights, winners get to pick up ribbons and plaques, purchase medals and publicize their awards on their websites.

“I’m going to put my award-winning blurb on there tomorrow,” Rohrer said.

Staff Writer Diane Peterson can be reached at 707-521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com. On Twitter @dianepete56