Now What? Local Leaders Discuss County’s Move Forward Amid Pandemic, Wildfires, Social Change and Homelessness

We’ve now said goodbye to one of the most difficult years that anyone can remember. And we begin 2021 in a place of deep uncertainty, likely months away from any semblance of normal in our community. With the cascade of overlapping challenges Sonoma faces — the pandemic, economic impacts, continued wildfires, racial and social inequity — how does our region now move forward? To wrap our minds around these issues, we convened a group of local thought leaders in a roundtable forum. Their task: To visualize the change called for in this unprecedented moment and the alliances that will make that change happen — and to forge a deeper understanding of what lies ahead.

Moderated by Abigail Peterson and Brett Wilkison 

The Participants

Laura Alamillo, Sonoma State University

Crista Barnett Nelson, Senior Advocacy Services

Jeff Bundschu, Gundlach Bundschu Winery

Jennifer Fish M.D., Santa Rosa Community Health

Daniel Kedan, Restaurateur, Backyard Forestville

Anita Maldonado, Social Advocates for Youth

Chris Rogers, Mayor of Santa Rosa

Rubin Scott, NAACP Sonoma County

Veronica Vences, La Luz Center

Jeniffer Wertz, Russian River Alliance

A Moment of Clarity

The shared challenges of the past year are staggering. The pandemic has been the dominant crisis, infecting thousands here and claiming over 160 lives, but we’ve also faced a sudden and deep recession, a public reckoning over racial inequity that spilled out into our streets and reshaped local government, and another series of destructive wildfires that destroyed nearly 500 homes.

Can each of you share a moment from the past year that crystallized the weight of these overlapping crises and traumas?

Daniel Kedan, restaurateur: From a business-owner’s perspective, there wasn’t just one moment, but it started when we had to lay off all of our employees back in March. Then, as we started to bring them back and we were getting going again, finding our groove, we had shut down again in August because we were evacuated for the wildfires. We’re trying to maintain our staff and give them jobs and feed people and make sure that we have food for the people most in need.

Rubin Scott, NAACP Sonoma County: One of the moments that crystallized this time for me would have to be the Black Lives Matter movement, when we started seeing our young children flooding the streets with their voices. We have never seen anything like that before. I believe that was the moment that we decided we had to step up and try to take charge and leadership because there were so many factors, so many underlying layers to that onion that we had to deal with. And so when we looked at all the different factors in the community, that’s what we said, ‘Hey, we have to do something.’

Crista Barnett Nelson, Senior Advocacy Services: I had a couple of moments. The first one was just seeing all the deaths due to Covid. Those are my residents. Those are the 5,000 people that I work with every day. And they’re the ones who are dying. They’re 75% of the deaths in this county, and I’m asking, ‘Why can’t we do better?’ And then the second one happened at 3:00 a.m. on the first night of the Glass fire. I was at the evacuation shelter in Petaluma, and there were ambulances lined up outside to evacuate these people. And that was not supposed to be their plan. So just, to look at the buses lined up filled with seniors who needed something.

The shelters are just not designed for that kind of response, for elderly people in that condition, that health level. And so just picture — it was darker than night, and the blue lights were blinking and then the lights inside of the buses with seniors, just sitting there, just waiting. It is so poignant; it’ll be with me forever. Where were they going to go?

Anita Maldonado, Social Advocates for Youth: For me, the crystallizing moment was also during the Glass fire, when we realized that our Dream Center evacuation was imminent. And I remember asking myself, ‘Where will our youth go when the only place they call home may not be here when they return?’ Just driving away, not knowing where we were going to go. We had about a dozen or so young people evacuating with us that night. The staff were with the youth all night; they were by their side the entire time.

Chris Rogers, Santa Rosa Mayor: I’m fixated on a time around last July when the Santa Rosa City Council was able to actually end our emergency declaration for the Tubbs fire. And it should have been a moment where we were able to celebrate and talk about the progress we’ve made. And yet all I could think about was that we were still under five other emergency declarations at the same time. So getting rid of one of six was something to celebrate, but it also illustrated just how much work we had to do.

And around that same time, we were doing our budget, and we were showing a $72 million shortfall over six years. And that’s because we’ve been doing fire recovery, responding to public safety power shut-offs, and responding to the Walbridge fire and the Kincade fire. So that city council meeting was really a moment where we should have been able to reflect — and instead, we were looking forward to the next couple of years and trying to figure out how to help float our community through it.

The depth of need locally is definitely a topic of discussion. Dr. Fish, was there a moment for you this year that brought these crises together?

Jennifer Fish, Santa Rosa Community Health: In May, our county numbers started going up, and 90% of the cases were in the Latinx community. And that is the community that we serve at our clinics: 78% of our patients are at or below the federal poverty line, and 61% of our patients are in the Latinx community. And so the crystallizing moment for me was just seeing all of the disjointed pieces of our response. You have the county and the elected officials and the clinics and the hospitals and the business community and the community organizations — and none of them are working together. We were trying to fight for PPE, for worker protections, for testing and isolation support.

Healthcare professionals are lauded as heroes, and yet we felt powerless and not heard. The primary care voice wasn’t brought to the table, and we’re now seeing the effects of that response. We’re not able to move through the tiers to re-open because of the health equity measures and the fact that we’re still not serving our most vulnerable communities. Covid shines a light on how the whole community is at risk.

Veronica Vences, La Luz: We primarily serve the Latino population in Sonoma Valley. And I would say that during the first couple of weeks with Covid, we weren’t hearing a lot of questions coming up, but the minute that the shutdown of the economy happened, that’s when the phone calls started coming in. So initially, what we started with was a relief program. And that was a good initial Band-Aid.

Covid is definitely highlighting inequities. I think that we need to be careful not to stigmatize the Latino community once again. Not to simply say, ‘They’re the ones that are sick’ and instead look at the root cause and effect.

Jeniffer, the west county is one of the per-capita poorest communities in Sonoma. How do you reflect on that crystallizing moment?

Jeniffer Wertz, Russian River Alliance: I started doing relief work after the floods in 2019 because bureaucracy takes a while. When you just lost your house and your job and all your stuff, you can’t wait for the Red Cross to start handing out money next week. You need food today. Back then, I raised a little bit of money to help, and I said ‘Anybody that needs emergency food, just meet me at the Safeway, and we’ll give you a gift card.’ And I went there with 27 $50 gift cards. And when I got there, there were 50 people in line, and it was heartbreaking. And that’s when I started recognizing how much poverty there was in our community.

And we’ve now had disaster after disaster after disaster, and it’s almost become routine with the response to it. We have a lot of Latino people in this community who are working poor, and they get overlooked way too much. During Covid, these folks aren’t getting unemployment. Everybody else eventually started getting unemployment, but they’re not.

If you raise the quality of life of the working class in your community, I think you raise everybody’s quality of life. If we can keep the employees healthy and safe, then that helps business owners too, and everybody across the board benefits.

Jeff Bundschu, Gundlach Bundschu Winery: The day I remember is September 9th, the red day. It was the darkest red. And I was ironically doing an online wine tasting, and the whole time, I’m looking outside at the sky getting darker and darker. That physiological darkness really hit me then.

But I also had a super-bright spot. Speaking to the BLM movement, I got a call that there was going to be a protest and that I should get on a tractor and drive down to Sonoma and get in on this parade. And when I got down there, all these farmers and their tractors were lined up. These two 18-year-old girls walked up to me and said, “Thanks for coming.” And it turns out they were the organizers. I am a big believer in looking to the youth for leadership. Those kids inspired me.

Laura Alamillo, Sonoma State University: Some of you may know that I’m new to Sonoma County; I just moved here in July from Fresno. And when I first arrived, the faculty in the School of Education said, ‘Wildfire season is coming.’ And yes—sure enough, I was evacuated.

What I learned is that these issues are so multilayered. There’s a lot of need on college campuses. The CSU campuses serve mainly first-generation college students. When I came to Sonoma State, I saw this whole other level of trauma that our students are dealing with. We are unique because of these wildfires, and we’re trying to address students’ needs as best we can.

And then there is this other level because of the pandemic. I’m in the School of Education, and we prepare teachers, we prepare educators. So we had to really consider how can we be proactive and help these future teachers work in remote learning, which is something that is very new for many teachers.

The Political Divide

We know that our nation as a whole remains deeply divided. Do you believe that’s true locally? And how does that impact the approach you take with your work in the community?

Daniel Kedan: Our community is definitely very divided. It’s always been divided, but at least we’ve been able to work with each other and find common ground because we live in Sonoma County. Recently, the tensions and issues that have needed to be addressed in all of our communities are finally coming to light. It makes people have a very short fuse. We’re noticing that a lot in the hospitality industry, where you’re not able to make that little mistake, you’re not able to have that conversation that disagrees with somebody without wondering how intense it’s going to get. At least here in Sonoma County, we can focus on finding that common ground. We have tons of issues that we need to deal with, but we have to start respecting each other. We really need to find that common ground again.

Jeniffer Wertz: Well, in the west county, nobody can agree on if the sky is blue or not. We’re pretty lucky, but the stuff that’s happening on a national level has polarized people here locally. The mask issue is political. If you’re a Republican and you like Trump, you don’t want to wear a mask. And if you’re a Democrat, then you don’t like that they don’t want to wear a mask, so you make a really big deal out of wearing a mask. So yeah, I think that we see that stuff trickle down, but our local leaders, I think in general are pretty good.

Chris, did you see that on the campaign trail? How would you assess the division?

Chris Rogers: It’s a really interesting conversation topic specifically, because I think people are predisposed to not trust government when they’re not participating in it. And I know that one of the hallmarks of Covid has been everybody trying to figure out how to engage the community when we can’t be together.

In Santa Rosa, we’ve been working for a long time on open government. We have our new sunshine ordinance coming across the finish line. And a hallmark of my time on council has been to reach out to folks, literally set out lawn chairs at the farmers market and just talk to people as they come by. But you can’t do that in a pandemic.

I think that people’s trust in the decisions that are being made is diminished when they can’t be there to see it. How do you join a city council meeting, for example, if you don’t have Internet access and the meeting is on Zoom? The pandemic itself is exacerbating and highlighting a lot of the divisions that already were there.

This past election, we had 24 city council seats open across the county, and 14 of those seats flipped to new people. And it’s partially because people are not feeling heard. And it’s partially because the folks who were in these seats were feeling exhausted from repeated disaster after disaster.

I do see the division — it’s there. And like I said, I think it’s been exacerbated because people don’t have the ability to get together and have that face-to-face conversation and to find that common ground.

Rubin Scott: Yes, when we look at these political times, and the social divide locally, it does exist. There’s always been a divide. There’s always been a rift. We get that. The point of the matter is right now, we’re looking for dialogue. So we can go ahead and come together as a community, to make sure we can bridge some of these disparities and inequalities that we all face.

There is a divide. We recognize that, but we shouldn’t use that to oppress each other. We should use that to get together and build, so we can go ahead and move forward together in the future.

Jennifer Fish: I think Sonoma County is kind of a microcosm of the country. There’s definitely the left-right political divide. There’s also a huge wealth disparity and resource disparity in our community. The patients that I care for are the ones who suffer the most from systemic injustice, in healthcare and law enforcement, and environmental justice. I agree people feel unheard, and Covid uncovers a lot of that. And so people are rising up. People are trying to become more engaged because they feel unheard, and yes, we need to come together and have that dialogue.

But I think the basis of that dialogue has to come from acknowledging and addressing the inequity that’s in our community that really affects the health of our community. As a physician, I can say that health lies at the intersection of all the things we care about. So when we talk about environmental justice and we talk about racial justice, and we talk about housing insecurity and food insecurity and all of that, we care because it affects the health of our community.

Rubin Scott: Yes!

Jennifer Fish: And as a group of community leaders, if we’re going to really move forward and come together, we have to address those inequities within our systems. Because that’s where the divide comes from. And that’s where the divide plays out.

A Growing Imbalance

In Sonoma County, Latino residents have accounted for more than 75% of coronavirus cases, even though they make up 27% of the county’s population. What has that disparity revealed, and are you convinced that enough is being done to rectify those imbalances?

Veronica Vences: It’s easier to answer the second part. I don’t think enough has been done. One of the first things that I think about is the wealth gap. I’ll use myself as an example. I was basically born and raised here — my parents came to this country when my mom was five months pregnant with me. And that distinction of me being born here has now opened up so many doors. But I have cousins and other family members who weren’t as fortunate, and honestly, their life has been the complete opposite.

There’s a push towards having more conversations, but there’s also a resistance to really looking at the issue. And I’m going to call it out and say racism. It’s unconscious bias. It’s not where you’re being racist to someone else. But for a very long time, I didn’t feel comfortable speaking up because I thought, it’s not my place. It’s not how I was raised. And a lot of self-reflection had to happen in order for me to be able to overcome that.

Now, I was fortunate. I had resources, I had a supportive family. I had great mentors, but not everybody has that opportunity. And if you’re talking about really making a shift, then we have to uncover all of that. At La Luz, our whole trajectory is meeting people’s basic needs so that then they can actually open themselves up to thinking about skill-building and jobs. It’s about the hierarchy of needs. If you don’t know where your next meal is going to come from, we can’t expect you to run for office.

More has to be done, and we can’t do it alone. So bringing more partners to the table, having more honest conversations, and calling things out, what is not being seen or being talked about. It’s going to be necessary.

Crista, how can we can do better by our vulnerable elders during this continued pandemic crisis?

Crista Barnett Nelson: One of the things we have to look to is the fact that the people who are giving care to most of our seniors are from these communities that are being impacted. We haven’t done a good enough job of supporting the people who are caring for our seniors. Look at the example of the St. Francis care home, where 100% of the residents and 100% of the caregivers had Covid, and they could not find staff to come in and provide care. Those caregivers lived in that facility. So when they started getting Covid, initially, they did not reach out and seek help. They continued to work while sick and consequently spread it to everyone in the facility. But who were they going to reach out to? They lived at the facility, so if they complained, it meant they might lose their job and their home. It’s a dark secret of this county. The pandemic has brought it to light.

Racism and Police Violence

Our nation has been convulsed by a sharp reckoning with racism, including the deep inequities that are faced by people of color and the sustained anguish over cases of police violence. Do you see signs of progress, and what more needs to be done to make sure this isn’t just a moment?

Rubin Scott: We’re looking at ways that we can go ahead and create a dialogue for engagement, so we can move forward together. We’ve got to remember that everything that we’re talking about — seniors, Latinos —this is our community. We navigate through this together.

We see a huge need in creating legislation, creating social policies, governing policies that allow us to understand the inequalities that we’re dealing with. When we sat down with the sheriff’s department and started looking at their structure and policy, we realized that they put more time and energy toward gun training and learning how to handcuff an individual than they did to learning how to communicate, learning about different ethnicities and races.

I feel like there are a lot of good, positive things that we are introducing into our community, which will allow us to go ahead and move forward together. But this isn’t just a one-off fix-all. These are things that we’ve got to keep up and we’ve got to continue to practice. We got to create spaces that all of us can feel that we can come and we can have a dialogue and conversation. I am optimistic. I do feel positive and passionate about where we’re going in our community. But I know there’s more to come.

Anita, Laura — our local youth have been on the front lines of many protests. What does that tell us as we look forward?

Anita Maldonado: Well, first of all, I would say that I’m just totally encouraged from the youth perspective. They’re engaged, they’re leading our social justice efforts, and they’re, in fact, educating the older generations on the importance of acceptance — diversity, equity, and inclusion. They’re really the champions of today’s social justice movements. So I’m proud of that. And I remain optimistic about the young people and their voices being heard on the front lines. Our young people, they have a lot to say, and we need to make sure that we make spaces for them to hear their voices.

Laura Alamillo: And to that I would just add that yes, our young people are leading these movements. But it’s systemic. It takes a whole restructuring of the curriculum: who’s represented, who are the teachers. In the CSU system, we are looking at the lack of black males in classrooms, and what we are doing to recruit black males into teaching positions. We’re also looking at STEM education as a possible vehicle for more change within education, because that’s an area that’s really lacking in racial diversity. So I do see progress. I want to be optimistic to a certain extent, but I think it really takes leaders like us to ask those critical questions and call for change.

Chris Rogers: I’ve got to jump in here to point out Measure P. It was the only law-enforcement reform measure on the ballot outside a major city in the United States. And it passed by almost 70% in Sonoma County. A lot of our youth were marching in the street one day and then writing policy the next day, taking that passion and that energy and finding a way to translate it into a political victory that not only shows that this community cares, but that it will sustain that movement and keep folks engaged as they move forward.

Daniel Kedan: We can’t have this conversation without mentioning [chef and nonprofit leader] Evelyn Cheatham. She showed the impact of what can be done when we reach out to the youth, the most in need. That’s one of the ways that we keep this progress going and let people know that they’re heard.

A More Diverse Government

In addition to Measure P, we had some fairly notable results out of city council races across the county, with more diverse councilmembers elected in Santa Rosa, Healdsburg, and Rohnert Park. What does that mean for the future of local leadership?

Chris Rogers: Well, I think first and foremost, it means that district elections are working. So many of those cities you mentioned are places that have just switched to district elections. Part of that is bringing politics back to the neighborhood level, for folks who are already ingrained in their community, who are able to talk to their neighbors and articulate a vision for their district and for the city. District elections make it so that those candidates can compete and win.

That’s what I saw in Santa Rosa. That’s what I saw in Rohnert Park. Giving people an opportunity and the space to have their voices heard and become those leaders.

Jennifer Fish: I’d like to bring those two questions together, your direct question about deep racism, and hope for the future and the elections. I keep coming back to talking about systemic injustice and systemic racism, which are highly prevalent in all of our systems, including healthcare. When we talk about social determinants of health, and we talk about housing and food and economic opportunity and educational opportunity, it’s all shaped by racism. It’s racism that causes health disparities and those health discrepancies. And so how do you address that? You address that by empowering the people who are most affected — not just bringing them to the table and checking a box, but giving them power and agency to lead the conversations. So I feel like the results of the elections that we’ve had locally — Measure P and the increased diversity in our local city councils — is the one thing that has given me the most hope this whole year.

Jeff Bundschu: In the last six months, we’ve had more dialogue internally in our company about inclusion, about diversity, about leaning into it. And within the context of the whole wine industry, it’s been an ongoing discussion. I think my biggest concern is to not let this fade. I don’t want to wake up 30 years from now and have things be the same. As a community member, I was extremely excited about the police oversight vote. But I was just as discouraged that the sheriff was opposed to it. So that says to me there’s a lot more work that needs to be done. I echo what Anita said: the kids are really leading it in ways that are so powerful that we just have to respond and pay attention.

Economic Challenges

We know that small and large businesses in Sonoma County have been affected by the pandemic: 39,000 people in Sonoma County lost their jobs in March and April, and our unemployment rate reached 15%.

Jeff, Daniel — is calamitous too strong a word to use to sum up what’s happening in our wine and hospitality industries? And do you think recovery is possible in 2021?

Crista Barnett Nelson: While you’re thinking of an answer, Jeff, I just want you to know I’ve been doing my part, drinking your wine.

Jeff Bundschu: Thank you — that’s that’s good to hear, in moderation of course. We’re a relatively small wine company. We farm, we produce the wine, we sell the wine in our tasting room, we sell it to distributors, retailers, and to great restaurants like Daniel’s. And half of that business went away, just dried up immediately. It was incredibly disconcerting for us. What I started to do, just in terms of survival, was to project out what a recovery might look like. We’ve already blown past what I hoped would have been a return point. So I’m recognizing there are parts of our business, the events in particular, that are not going to come back in 2021.

In the context of our hospitality, it’s just meant a pivot as to how to reach customers. We’re doing well, but it’s been really hard for wineries that rely on restaurants for the primary portion of their business. The bottom line is our county really depends on tourism and visitors.

Have restaurants reached the bottom?

Daniel Kedan: We’re finally getting a taste of how volatile the hospitality industry as a whole is. This has given people a true sense of what we deal with and how small of a margin we really do live on.

It’s mind-boggling to think about how we get through this one. And, like Jeff said, what the return looks like.

What might our restaurant scene look like by the end of 2021?

Daniel Kedan: It’s going to be as diverse as this conversation is right now. You have a lot of restaurants that are very desperate to get back open and don’t have the community support. We’re very lucky in the partnerships that we have, working with Sonoma Family Meal and the Ceres project, where we’ve been able to find alternative sources of revenue, but a lot of restaurants don’t have that.

So it’s a very scary industry. There is no crystal ball answer because nobody really knows. In all honesty, it’s going to be a long, hard process to get through this. And if we don’t have support from our local and national government, there’ll be many restaurants that don’t survive.

Let’s talk about Sonoma’s strengths. Our continued ability to pull together and support our community in times of crisis is the envy of many in our state. But with such deep needs and such limited resources after the challenges of 2020, are our nonprofit organizations up to the task?

Veronica Vences: The outpouring of support this year has been amazing. And it was something unexpected because we knew people were suffering and we weren’t sure if we would get similar investments as we did after the 2017 fires. One thing that has worked for La Luz is leaning more into institutional funding. This is the first year La Luz has gotten a chunk of money from Sonoma County, because of the Cares Act funding that came through.

It is possible, but it’s going to take us working together and exploring completely different sources of revenue. I’ll also say that we’re thinking about earned revenue. As much as it’s not the best time to launch a new business, the barriers to entry have been lowered.

Anita Maldonado: We provide supportive services to youth and their families in crisis. So we’ve been open throughout Covid. Fortunately for us, we were able to take advantage of a PPP loan that helped us keep people on payroll. We have not had to lay anybody off, but I think the biggest issue is how to deal with unearned revenue. If your budget relies on fundraising events, you have to think differently about how to bring that revenue in.

And donor fatigue is real. And so it becomes difficult. We have to cast a wider net as it relates to donor relationships and cultivations. And I agree with Veronica, we’ve got to find ways to collaborate and partner so that we can have a greater impact in the community.

Crista Barnett Nelson: The one thing about nonprofits is we’ve never had any money. I mean, let’s face it, we never have enough. But we can do this. You give me a dime, and I can make it a dollar.

We lost our major fundraising event, which we’d been doing for 32 years. Hopefully, we’ll bring it back and we’ll pivot. To look at things from a positive place, we know how to do this. We know the budget’s going to be a mess. But we’re resilient and we can make this happen; I don’t doubt that. We’re amazing in Sonoma County. We’re unlike anywhere else.

Jeniffer Wertz: I’m a volunteer and my organization is very grassroots. When I started, I had no clue how to do any fundraising at all. I applied for a county grant, and I had no idea how to write a grant, so I just literally Googled grant templates, started writing. Eventually, the grant got funded and we started paying emergency rent for workers, because there was nothing aimed specifically at working people.

Our program has become really successful and very financially efficient. We’ve prevented 30 working households from becoming homeless for $50,000.

Pitching this forward, what do you need most in your community?

Jeniffer Wertz: Well, there’s always more need. One of the reasons that I’m participating in this forum is because I’d like to see other communities establish a similar model for their workforces using volunteers.

We want to prevent working people from becoming homeless, and it’s as simple as providing emergency rent or utilities and more disaster relief. It’s super-cost-effective. I’m convinced that the solution to homelessness is prevention. It’s really difficult and expensive to try to solve after the fact. If you can keep people on track and prevent them from becoming the next chronically homeless population, I think it’s a way better way to go. Not only financially, but morally. We do what we do in our community on a small scale, but it’s been very effective.

A 2021 Wish List

We’d love to hear from each of you about your hopes for the year. What do you look forward to in 2021, and what new alliances are you trying to forge?

Chris Rogers: We’ve got the PG& E settlement funds that we’re trying to figure out how to allocate. It’s an opportunity for us to get some projects that had been languishing across the finish line, and then potentially put some dollars into places where we know we have a lot of need. Last September, we passed the community wildfire protection plan. And to me, that’s one of the things that I’m looking forward to, because we just can’t lose three months of our year, every year, to wildfire. Being able to implement the community wildfire protection plan will make our community more resilient and pay dividends in a number of different ways. It’s going to trickle all the way through our economy and through every single issue that we’re trying to work on.

Daniel Kedan: For us in the hospitality industry, let’s make the changes now that that need to be made. Let’s get people paid a proper wage. Let’s move away from the reliance on tipping and make that shift in our industry as a whole.

I also want our community to come together. I’d like to see restaurateurs getting more involved with the youth, getting the youth trained and giving them opportunities to grow, helping to change our industry and make it a lot more sustainable.

Rubin Scott: My wish list for 2021 is to work more with more governing officials, such as the city manager, and just become more unified between the city, governing officials, our schools, and our families. I think the biggest thing is that we need to become more inclusive. We have to create a culture. If we can go ahead and make sure that all children in the community feel accepted, don’t feel isolated, that would be my wish list. I hope that we are able to work more on bridging the gap between our children and our governing officials. I’ve been working hard on that. The wisdom of our young people is beyond their age; it’s phenomenal.

Jennifer and Veronica, you both had very strong critiques to kick us off. Jennifer, you talked about systems not being in place to safeguard us from the pandemic. And Veronica, you talked about health being a privilege for the working-class community. What’s at the top of your wish list?

Veronica Vences: First, as we walk out of this forum, I would wish that that we all understand the true value of our workforce. Just a paycheck is not enough, just a living wage is not enough. I’m thinking about our vineyard workers, I’m thinking about our hospitality workers and all of the different jobs that are the backbone of our economy.

And the other wish — it’s a big wish. It’s an immigration shift. I think a lot of our community needs that pathway to citizenship. Many are missing out on that safety net. To me, that’s going to be a big push for our new presidential administration. I’m keeping my eye on that because it could really shift the social determinants of health that Jennifer spoke to. It’s a clear way to change people’s lives.

Jennifer Fish: I absolutely agree. Covid unveiled a lot of the disparities within our community, and my wish is that as a community, we prioritize the health and well-being of our workers, the low-income people in our community, our homeless community, all of those that who feel ‘less than.’ We have a lot of wealth in our community. My hope is that we center all of our work as a community together on those vulnerable people, because if we really invest in the health of our workers, the health of our community grows and can become sustainable.

What are one or two tangible examples of that?

Jennifer Fish: Part of it has to do with mobilizing financial resources. Very specifically for Covid, for example — people don’t stay isolated because they can’t afford to. Let’s give them the resources to stay home and provide them with the funds and services, the food and resources to isolate.

If we don’t invest in the workers, businesses will not flourish because we’re going to be in the same position that we’re at right now, where our numbers won’t go down because we’re not focusing on taking care of those vulnerable populations.

It also means investing in primary care and preventive health and building alliances with organizations that know the communities and can do on-the-ground work. Investing in health and our community is, in my mind, the only way forward. And, and to do that by empowering and giving voice to people from those communities and to the BIPOC leadership and the youth that are coming up, bringing them to the table and making them leaders.

Jeff Bundschu: Fundamentally, housing is a huge issue. Even before Covid, finding reasonable housing to support our workers has been less and less possible. And with the flight from the city, and people buying up property, it’s exacerbated the problem. It becomes incumbent on people in my position to educate the new arrivals to our community, to help them understand that one of the reasons they love living here is because these people are around to help do work. It’s something that our Sonoma Valley vintners association has focused on pretty heavily, trying to figure out a way to tackle that, because it’s impacting workers at all levels and in all positions. So that’s what I hope we can keep tackling this year.

Crista Barnett Nelson: My wish is less philosophical, more tangible. We’ve just started working on healthcare career pathways. The need for seniors, as I said earlier, is that we don’t have enough certified nursing assistants to provide care, so we’re starting a CNA training program for youth, with the idea that that’s a first step into a health care career, and then we can offer wraparound services, helping stabilize at-risk youth, making sure they have food and transportation to get to their new CNA job that we’ve trained them for. So that’s my 2021 wish.

Anita, that’s a pretty good segue to bridge the generational divide. If you had a wish list for Sonoma County youth, what would that look like for 2021?

Anita Maldonado: My wish for Sonoma County youth is that we lead the charge and leave the place in better shape than what we found it. And we do that by opening up the doors and spaces for them to have a voice. We mentor them. We create spaces for them as decision-makers, we create spaces for them to lead the charge.

The pandemic forces us to reflect on really important things. And I think it’s shifted our priorities. So my hope is that we continue to reflect upon that. We create better allies within the community, we recognize privilege, and we open those spaces for people who have not had privilege.

Laura Alamillo: What I would hope is that we can train good teachers who can afford to live in this area. We’re working really hard to make sure that we recruit future teachers who are from this community, but what I’m finding is that once they get their credential and they’re ready to go back to their community, they’re unable to stay. So I think my wish is that we are able to grow our own in this community and that our teachers, our educators, see themselves when they step into those classrooms, and that they can sustain their own families and be able to live here and be healthy.

Jeniffer Wertz: I agree with Jeff, I agree with most of the people here about helping the working class. And housing is a big deal. It’s easy to say, ‘We want more affordable housing.’ It’s a lot harder to accomplish. But we know that hotels want to build here, so I wish we could create a countywide ordinance mandating that hotels include on-site affordable workforce housing. It would work for some people, not everyone — but it would free up housing stock for families, and it would cost taxpayers nothing. If we could get every jurisdiction in our county to work on that collectively, I think that could be one of the solutions to the housing problem for everybody.

Recreate Warming Soups from Popular Sonoma Restaurants

Three soups La Salette Soup: Caldo Verde (potato, linquiça, collards)

A bowl of hot soup on a chilly day is one of the pleasures of the season. As the aroma of simmering vegetables fills the kitchen, the familiar motions of chopping and stirring feel like moments of grace and self-care. These three recipes are easy to make at home, whether you are cooking for family members or just yourself. Add a blanket, a good book, a glass of red wine or single malt Scotch, and crusty bread for a warm meal to appreciate alongside the sweet sound of welcome winter rains.

Cucina Paradiso’s Pasta Fagioli

Chef-owner Dennis Hernandez and his wife Malena serve this classic Italian soup at their delightful Petaluma restaurant, Cucina Paradiso. At the restaurant, they use fresh pasta, cooked separately and added at the last minute. Here we suggest using dried pasta, which also works beautifully.

Makes 4-6 servings.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 1 carrot, diced
• 1 large celery stalk, diced
• 1 ounce prosciutto, minced
• Kosher salt
• Black pepper in a mill
• Pinch of red pepper flakes
• 8 ounces Borlotti beans, soaked in water overnight and drained
• 1 cup white wine
• 1 bay leaf
• 5 cups chicken stock, plus more as needed
• ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 sprig rosemary
• 1 sprig sage
• 1 ½ cups (6 ounces) small dry pasta, such as d’italini or tripolini, cooked and drained
• Parmigiano-Reggiano, in one piece
• Small sprigs of rosemary or sage to garnish

Three soups Cucina Paradiso 707-782-1130 Dennis Hernandez Soup: Pasta Fagioli (pasta and bean soup)
Cucina Paradiso’s Pasta Fagioli. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

Pour the olive oil into a large saucepan or soup pot set over medium-low heat, add the onion, carrot, celery, and prosciutto, and cook gently until the vegetables soften and release their aromas, about 15 minutes. Stir occasionally and do not let them brown. Season with a few pinches of salt, several turns of black pepper, and a couple of pinches of red pepper flakes. Add the beans and the white wine and continue to cook gently, stirring all the while, for 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the bay leaf and stock and simmer until the beans are tender, about 35 to 45 minutes. Stir occasionally and add more chicken stock, ¼ cup at a time, if the soup gets too thick.

Meanwhile, pour the extra-virgin olive oil into a small pan, add the garlic and herbs, and set over very low heat for several minutes, until the aromas of the garlic and herbs are released. Strain the oil into the soup.

In a separate pot, cook pasta in boiling salted water until it is al dente. Drain thoroughly and return to the cooking pot. Drizzle the cooked pasta with a bit of olive oil, stir, and set aside until ready to combine with the beans.

When the beans are fully tender, remove the pot from the heat, and use an immersion blender to puree about a quarter of the soup.

To serve, stir in the pasta and ladle soup into bowls. Grate Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese over each portion and garnish with fresh herbs.

La Salette’s Caldo Verde

Chef Manuel Azevedo has offered a version of Portugal’s national soup at his Sonoma restaurant, LaSalette, since 1998. It’s also on the menu at his second restaurant, Tasca Tasca, a couple of blocks away just off the downtown Sonoma plaza. With its smoky richness, caldo verde is an ideal winter soup.

Makes 6-8 servings.

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 carrots, diced
• 1 celery stalk, diced
• 1 onion, diced
• Kosher salt
• 3 pounds smoked beef bones with meat
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• ¾ pounds linguiça
• 3 cups thinly sliced collard greens
• 2 to 3 large russet potatoes, peeled, diced, and cooked until tender
• 2 teaspoons freshly ground white pepper

Three soups La Salette Soup: Caldo Verde (potato, linquiça, collards)
La Salette’s Caldo Verde. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

Pour the olive oil into a large soup pot set over medium-low heat, add the carrots, celery, and onions, and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring all the while, until the vegetables begin to soften a bit; do not let them brown. Season with salt, then add the bones, garlic, linguiça (whole), and 3 quarts (12 cups) of water.

Increase the heat to high and, after the water boils, reduce to the heat to low. Simmer, partially covered, for 2 hours. Skim off any foam and impurities that rise to the surface.

Meanwhile, fill a medium bowl with water and ice. Fill a medium pot half full with water, add 2 tablespoons of salt, set over high heat, and, when the water boils, add the collard greens. Stir for about 2 minutes; use tongs to transfer the collards to the icewater bath. Transfer to a colander and drain thoroughly. Set the collards aside.

Use tongs to transfer the linguiça to a plate; cover to keep warm. Strain the stock into a clean pot, discard the bones and vegetables, and set the stock over high heat.

When the stock boils, stir in the potatoes and about half of the collard greens and simmer for 10 minutes, until the collards are completely tender.

Remove the soup from the heat, let cool for a few minutes, and puree with an immersion blender. Taste, correct for salt, and stir in the white pepper and the remaining collard greens.

Working quickly, cut the linguiça into ¼ inch rounds.

Ladle the soup into warmed soup plates or bowls and top with the sliced linguiça.

Mateo’s Delicata Squash Soup with Candied Pepitas and Sour Cream

Mateo Granados has introduced Sonoma County to the delicious cuisine of his birthplace, the Yucatan, at his Healdsburg restaurant, Mateo’s Cocina Latina, and at wildly popular pop-up dinners at local farms and wineries. He is an advocate of true sustainable cooking, using all the parts not just of the animals he prepares, but also of fruits and vegetables. This delicious soup incorporates squash skins into a velvety soup spiked with tangy sour cream.

Makes 6 servings.

• 3 medium delicata squash, cut in half lengthwise
• Olive oil
• 2 ounces (¼ cup, ½ stick) butter
• 1 sweet onion, such as Walla Walla, diced
• 5 ounces heavy cream
• Whole nutmeg
• ¾ cup sour cream
• ⅓ cup lightly roasted or candied pepitas (see notes)
• Kosher salt

Three soups Mateo Granados/ Mateo’s Cocina Latina Soup: Roasted Delicata Squash with Candied Pumpkin Seeds
Mateo’s Delicata Squash Soup with Candied Pepitas and Sour Cream. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

Note: Either candied pepitas or lightly roasted pepitas make a perfect garnish for this soup. To make candied pepitas, you’ll need the seeds of 1 or 2 squash. Begin by scraping out the seeds, soaking them in water, and rubbing them between the palms of your hands to remove the fibers. Spread them on a tea towel (not paper towels, as they will stick) and rub them to remove any bits of fiber and flesh. Put them into a small saucepan and add ½ cup water and ½ cup sugar; do not stir. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the sugar is dissolved and the water is clear, about 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the seeds to a baking sheet, spreading them in a single layer.

Set in a 250-degree oven for 1 ½ to 2 hours, until crispy. Remove from the oven and let cool. Candied pepitas can be stored in a sealed container at room temperature for several days.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Set the squash on a clean work surface, use a soup spoon to scrape out the seeds.

Place a piece of parchment paper on a baking sheet. Rub the cut surfaces of the squash all over with olive oil and set them, cut side down, in a single layer on the baking sheet. Cover very lightly with a sheet of aluminum foil. Set on the middle rack of the oven and cook until tender when pierced with a fork, about 30 to 40 minutes.

When the squash is tender, remove it from the oven.

Use a soup spoon to scrape the flesh from three of the six pieces of squash; discard the scraped skins and set all of the squash aside.

Put the butter into a large saucepan or soup pot set over medium heat, and, when it is foamy, add the onion. Reduce the heat to very low and cook until the onion until releases its sugars and begins to caramelize. It will take about 35 to 40 minutes; do not let the onion burn.

Break the three halves of squash still in their skins into chunks and add them to the onions. Stir for a few minutes until the squash, including its skin, begins to relax into the onions. Pour in the heavy cream and add three generous gratings of nutmeg (use a nutmeg grater or microplane grater). Add 3 cups of water and stir vigorously until fairly smooth. Simmer over medium heat for 15 minutes.

While the soup simmers, put the sour cream into a medium bowl and season with a few pinches of salt. Stir well, cover, and refrigerate.

Stir the squash that has been set aside into the soup and simmer 5 minutes more.

Use a regular blender or an immersion blender to puree the soup, making it as smooth as possible. Set a strainer over a clean saucepan and strain the soup, pressing firmly to extract as much as possible; only pieces of skin should remain behind.

Carefully taste the soup and add just enough salt — 2 or 3 pinches — for the flavors to blossom.

To serve, use a soup spoon to form large quenelles (fat ovals) of sour cream and set them in the center of each soup bowl. Dot the quenelles with the pepitas. Reheat the soup as needed, transfer it to a pitcher, and carefully pour it around, not over, the quenelles of sour cream and enjoy.

9 Winter Skin Solutions From Sonoma Brands

Dry air, stress and lots of handwashing this winter has our skin very much in need of care. So we’ve gathered products to address a variety of skin challenges. The bonus is, they’re all from Sonoma brands. Apparently, supporting local businesses really can give you a beautiful glow—click through the above gallery for details.

Windsor-Based Husband and Wife Create Exquisite Chocolates

Assorted bonbons from Fleur Sauvage chocolates. (Chris Hardy/For Sonoma Magazine)

Chocolatier Robert Nieto doesn’t do much of anything the easy way. Crafting a 24-piece tray of his Fleur Sauvage bonbons takes several hours. First, he tempers a fine Ecuadorian chocolate, heating it and cooling it to create a smooth, glossy finish. Next, he molds each piece, fills it with pralines, caramel, and other sweet goodness, then paints each tiny shape with an airbrush and buffs it by hand.

The buffing, he explains, helps the edible paint adhere and brings out the ganache’s luminous, glasslike shine. The bonbons positively glisten in their various silhouettes, looking like multicolored marbles, princess-cut diamonds, and dazzling emeralds. Some designs burst forth in 3D — a seasonal cranberry chocolate filled with caramel and vanilla, for example, takes the elegant form of a flower in bloom.

It all could seem like a bit too much fuss, until you savor one and realize the worth of the effort — the crisp, feather-delicate, chocolate shell, the hints of natural mint or orange infused in the paints, the silky fillings that flood the senses with even more intense flavor.

Fleur Savage chocolatiers Robert Nieto airbrushing a chocolate flower
Fleur Savage chocolatier Robert Nieto creates Valentine’s Day chocolates with flair. Here, he airbrushes a cranberry bonbon with a stunning blossom shape. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)
Tara Nieto paints a chocolate wine bottle that will be filled with bonbons. When she is not working alongside her husband, she is a fire engineer on the front lines. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)
Tara Nieto paints a chocolate wine bottle that will be filled with bonbons. When she is not working alongside her husband, she is a fire engineer on the front lines. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

Robert, who sports three chocolate-themed tattoos, and his wife Tara Nieto opened Fleur Sauvage Chocolates in a candy-box-size industrial park kitchen in Windsor in the spring of 2019. (Robert has also been with Jackson Family Wines as a full-time pastry chef for the past nine years.) As soon as they opened, the couple saw a steady stream of customers clamoring for such exquisite offerings as lavender caramels, white chocolate truffles, and Mexican bonbons spiked with cinnamon, cayenne pepper, chile powder, and Tahitian vanilla. The couple also works with wineries and breweries, and they reach locals by selling online and at farmers markets.

“One night, I made 1,200 bonbons for a special event,” the chef says, matter-of-factly. “I do that for holidays, too, since it gets so busy.” Yet even the all-nighters don’t faze him. “It’s so fun to do,” Robert explains. “All hand painted and splattered, Jackson Pollock-style. There’s so much movement and color, and I really get to showcase my artistic style.”

Tara has been learning the art of chocolate, from infusing the raw ingredients with flavors of Meyer lemons, fresh rosemary, and Earl Grey tea, to airbrushing the nearly-finished chocolates in their trademark swirls and splatters.

Robert allows the seasons to dictate the chocolate flavors. For Valentine’s Day this year, he is planning flavors such as strawberry-and-rosewater ganache, basil dark chocolate, and cocoa-nib praline.

The ingredients all swing as local as possible, including honey from Hector’s Honey Farm, bitters and whiskey from Alley 6 Craft Distillery, almonds from Bryerton’s Roasted Almonds, and tea from the Russian River Tea Company.

Chocolate creations, including a life-size chocolate wine bottle, from Fleur Sauvage in Windsor. (Chris Hardy/Sonoma Magazine)
Chocolate creations from Fleur Savage in Windsor. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)
Airbrushed and painted chocolate flower, wine bottle and heart
A tray of finished chocolates ready for packaging. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)
A tray of finished chocolates ready for packaging. (Chris Hardy / Sonoma Magazine)

The couple also likes to bike, swim, and run, but not in the simple way. In fact, as you might expect from a pair so obsessive about chocolate, triathlon is their sport of choice. Robert has completed multiple Vinemans in Sonoma County, a Lake Tahoe Ironman, and the Santa Rosa Half-Ironman. Together, they spend long hours training along Sonoma’s scenic roads and trails.

And when Tara is not training or in the kitchen, she works as a fire engineer. For the past 12 years, she’s maintained firefighting vehicles and pumped water from the engines to the firefighters’ hoses on the front lines. “Making chocolates and working the farmers market is all really fun for me because it is so different from what I do for my career,” Tara says. And she’s right that it’s hard to imagine two jobs that are more different from each other. “My job can get heavy at times, but chocolate is always fun, light, and very social with our customers. Plus, Robert and I love working in the kitchen with our music up loud. We talk, plan, and dream about more chocolates.”

The company remains small, with no formal storefront; customers simply send an email requesting boxes sized from four to 36 pieces, which Tara has been known to hand-deliver.

The Nietos have recently launched a pairing program at Alley 6 Craft Distillery in Healdsburg, and they are looking to expand to other farmers’ markets this year. Also on tap: virtual tastings online, and working with winery clients to creating wine and bonbon pairings. “We often like to pair to match the flavor notes of a particular wine or spirit, but sometimes we are surprised and find that, for example, our Mexican chocolate, which is spicy and complex, goes wonderfully with some Chardonnays,” says Tara.

For the couple’s own Valentine’s Day, there likely won’t be bonbons on the menu. Robert jokes that he forgets to enjoy his own work, since he’s around it so much — a classic case of the cobbler having no shoes. But he will make a full, multicourse dinner for Tara, which will end, of course, with a chocolate dessert.

A Food Network star too

Robert’s creativity with sugar and chocolate, not to mention an unflappable grace under pressure, has made him a star on the Food Network.

He first got the giant cable company’s attention when he appeared on an episode of “Beat Bobby Flay” in 2016. In 2019, producers asked Robert back to compete in “Cookie Wars,” and again in that year’s “Holiday Wars” competition, which he won with his specialty, a rosemary dark chocolate bonbon. This past holiday, Robert was cast in “Candy Land,” a fantasy show with an entirely edible set in which teams of four competed to craft real-life versions of the classic childhood board game, like gumdrop mountains and the peppermint forest. Episodes are available online.

For your valentine

To order treats, visit Fleur Sauvage Chocolates online at fleursauvagechocolates.com. Prices start at $10. Robert and Tara will offer special 2021 Valentine packages, including bonbon assortments, flavored chocolate bars, and large chocolate hearts filled with truffles.

Cut Down on Plastic Waste With Refills and Tips From New Occidental Retailer

Joan Ayers, owner of Homebody Refill, sells a variety of handmade soaps scented with essential oils at her booth at the Petaluma East Side Farmers’ Market in Petaluma, Calif., on Tuesday, November 10, 2020. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Joan Ayers wants to say just one word to you: Plastics.

“It’s just this thing, this blob,” she says. “It’s like, what do we do with it now? It doesn’t ever go away.”

Ayers, founder of the Occidental-based sustainable retailer Homebody Refill, thinks a lot about plastics. “I’ve always been a minimalist,” she explains. “I’d wash my Ziplocs — I’d have the same box for years.” Then, after decades of judiciously reusing her baggies, Ayers encountered a heart-wrenching video of a sea turtle with a plastic straw lodged up its nose. She realized, “It’s time for me to do something. I’m part of this problem, and I don’t want to be.”

Ayers — who still works by day as an executive assistant in commercial real estate — started researching the concept of refill shops, where customers fill their own reusable containers with bulk household products, and debuted the business last July. She sets up at local farmers markets with jugs stocked with dish soap, shampoo, and all-purpose cleaner, along with bamboo brushes, silicone covers, and reusable glass containers.

The response was immediate. “Lots of people were like, ‘Oh my God! I’ve been looking for a place like this!’” Ayers enjoys answering customers’ questions. “When people come by, and they had no clue this was available — I love those conversations,” she says. “Just talking to people, helping them understand that there are alternatives out there and, whatever they do, every little step helps.”

707-331-5920 or homebodyrefill.com

Three quick tips to cut down on plastic waste

• Just say no to freebies, handouts, and other small bits of plastic you don’t need.

• Avoid plastic forks and spoons by keeping a reusable cutlery set in your car or purse for meals on the go.

• Make smart swaps. Ayers says there’s a non-plastic alternative for nearly every plastic item in your home — think shampoo bars, mesh produce bags, and silicone lid covers. “The silicone covers come in different sizes and shapes, they’re really stretchy, and they last a long time.”

Former Tesla Executive Launches Bespoke Textile Company in Sebastopol

Jessica Switzer Green, founder of JG Switzer, with some of her company’s Heritage Sheep Collection, in the Genesis fabric style, and needle loom. JG Swtizer produces luxury blankets and bedding out of a workshop at The Barlow, in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

On a 7.5-ton loom affectionately named Luna, a group of women at The Barlow are meticulously crafting some of the most beautiful wool blankets in the world. Designer Jessica Switzer Green, a former Tesla executive, launched JG Switzer with the goal of creating textiles so luxurious and finely made that they will last not only a lifetime, but can be handed down to the next generation.

The bespoke blankets and throws, each elegantly edged in lustrous silk charmeuse, are primarily woven from the soft, sustainably harvested wool of rare breeds of sheep. These heirloom breeds produce distinctively different fleece—the Wensleydale, for example, has long, fast-growing fleece that must be cut twice a year.

Genesis fabric style, from the Heritage Sheep Collection, at JG Switzer in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)
Genesis fabric style, from the Heritage Sheep Collection, at JG Switzer in Sebastopol. (Christopher Chung / The Press Democrat)

“I’m really going for small flock animals at risk,” explains Green. “I’m choosing for the quality of the wool and the softness. And the color is really important, because I’m an oil painter, and I think of it as painting in wool.” Much of the company’s wool is sourced from nearby producers, including Sue Gustafson in Sebastopol, who keeps a small flock of rare Bluefaced Leicester sheep on her 8-acre farm. “The fiber grows in ringlets and it comes in white and in brown,” Gustafson says. “It’s a nice fiber to use for clothing and other projects because it’s not scratchy. You can wear it next to your skin.”

Green, who says she is motivated by sustainability and timeless design, is currently expanding into a broader array of natural-fiber textiles and products for the home. Says Green, “It’s about recreating and bringing excitement and a modern twist to old classics.”

jgswitzer.com

This Sonoma Cabernet Producer Wants to ‘Claim Victory’ Over Napa

W

hen it comes to producing world-class cabernet sauvignon, Sonoma County has long played second fiddle to its neighbor Napa. But now an Alexander Valley winery owner is looking to turn the tables.

“We’re going to spare no expense, climb to the top of the mountain, plant the flag, and claim victory,” said Crescere Wines founder Joe Reynoso, whose recipe to success contains three key ingredients: a deep connection to the land, a rock star winemaker, and familiarity with being the underdog.

Reynoso, the son of Mexican immigrants and the oldest of 15 children, spent his childhood years around California farms. His father, a teacher, would supplement his income in the summer by working on farms north of Bakersfield. But it wasn’t until years later that Reynoso got his hands dirty in the field.

At 19, back in California from Chicago and working as a truck driver, Reynoso made a discovery that was to change the course of his life.

“I delivered a piano to a vineyard in Napa Valley and said to myself, ‘This is the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen — I want one,'” recalled Reynoso.

Joe Reynoso's Alexander Valley vineyard.
Joe Reynoso’s Alexander Valley vineyard. (Charles Gullung)

What for many would have been an idle and passing dream became a serious and enduring aspiration for Reynoso. He began his dream quest by getting a degree from San Francisco State University followed by an MBA from the University of Chicago.

Reynoso, long fascinated by the stock market, then became a floor trader for the CME Group. Later, he started his own trading firm.

“Those guys you see in the movies with loud jackets, gesticulating and yelling, that’s what I used to do,” he said.

Fifteen years later and one day shy of his 34th birthday, Reynoso’s hard work in trading made it possible for him to purchase his very own vineyard in 1994.

Planting the flag

Reynoso had purchased a remote 500 acres in Alexander Valley featuring over a mile of frontage on the Russian River and hillside slopes that allowed for distinctly different vineyard blocks throughout. As he set about tending to his vineyard property, he developed an affinity for Sonoma County.

“It’s more diverse and it seemed more agricultural (than Napa),” he said. “Robert Parker has a quote that goes something like this: ‘In the California wine world, Napa is the sizzle, Sonoma the soul.’ I think there’s some truth to that,” he added.

Reynoso’s initial plan for the property, which had just 10 acres of vines at the time of purchase, was simply to farm the land and sell the grapes. He then added 140 acres of grape varieties to the vineyard, many of which you would rarely find together in one vineyard, especially in the Alexander Valley.

The Reynoso family hard at work during harvest. (Charles Gullung)

Today, the vineyard is planted with petit verdot, sauvignon blanc, merlot, petit sirah, and, of course, cabernet sauvignon. There’s also one block of syrah for what Reynoso cheekily called “domestic tranquility” (Reynoso’s wife, Elena, is a big fan of the grape).

In 2016, more than 20 years after purchasing the Alexander Valley vineyard, the Reynosos launched their own commercial wine brand, Crescere (the name means to grow; to increase; to thrive). Joe Reynoso had recently co-founded the Sugarloaf custom crush facility in Santa Rosa, giving him access to a state-of-the-art winery. He then hired the renowned California winemaker and wine consultant Philippe Melka, a Bordeaux native and the man behind some of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed wineries. 

Melka became the final piece to complete the wine making puzzle that Reynoso had envisioned in 1994.

“We feel very fortunate to have a great piece of land that we planted over twenty years ago, and we’ve been meticulous in our care of it since then,” said Reynoso. “We have a vineyard manager who knows the land as well as he knows his children. And we have Phillipe. Everyone involved is dedicated to making the best wines possible, so we are all able to band together and take on any of the challenges that may arise.”

Melka’s involvement with a Sonoma County cabernet sauvignon producer signals that, as far as cab is concerned, things are on the up — not just for the Reynosos, but for the region as a whole. At Crescere, he now guides enhanced farming practices that involve planting unique clones that will help take cabernet sauvignon grown in the Alexander Valley to the next level. 

When we craft an Alexander Valley cabernet, we are not trying to copy a Napa wine or even compare it,” Melka said, “We are trying to capture the site and the soils. When crafting the wine, we want to capture the unique tannin profile, savory note, and the spice that Alexander Valley cabernet has.”

All in the family

In addition to producing their own wines — Sonoma Coast chardonnay and pinot noir, Russian River Valley sauvignon blanc, and estate syrah, cabernet sauvignon and a proprietary red blend — the Reynosos continue to sell the majority of their fruit to top Sonoma producers. Managing the vineyard and winery is a full-time job. Adding a luxury wine brand to the mix requires all hands on deck: the entire process is done by hand and with absolute precision. 

“I would say that we don’t do anything ‘different,’ we do everything ‘harder,’ said Reynoso. While many wineries will do one pass of thinning through the vineyard to remove imperfect clusters, Crescere will do three or more. During harvest, the fruit is sorted in the field, then again by an optical sorter, which can remove even individual sub-par berries.  

Crescere Wines is a small, family-owned winery. (Charles Gullung)

Elena Reynoso has worked in the wine industry for more than 30 years — Joe and Elena met in a fine wine shop in Chicago where Elena was working. She managed the Alexander Valley vineyard ranch for more than a decade before passing the torch to Joe’s son, JW, in 2015.

JW spent his childhood summers on the ranch in Alexander Valley but didn’t show an interest in joining the family business until he was older.

“A lot of kids who grow up out here in the country, and in wine, want to escape,” said Elena Reynoso. “They feel like it’s stifling. They usually go somewhere for a few years and then want to come back.”

Like his peers, JW eventually moved back to Healdsburg — a couple of months after he got married. Now that JW has two children of his own, Joe Reynoso is hopeful that the family business will continue for generations to come.

“To develop a good brand takes a long, long time,” said Joe Reynoso. “We understand this is not a turnkey type operation. We’re hopeful that maybe his kids will follow in his footsteps.”

In the meantime, the Reynosos hope to see the tide change when it comes to perceptions of Sonoma, and more specifically Alexander Valley cabernet. Their mission is to continue in the footsteps of notable Alexander Valley cabernet producers like Jordan Winery and Silver Oak Wine.

These two labels were pioneers in the Alexander Valley and we all stand on their shoulders,” said Joe Reynoso. “However, there were not many small, artisanal producers here until fairly recently, while in comparison there is a rather prolific number from Napa.”

 “We want to raise the profile of Alexander Valley,” said Elena Reynoso, echoing her husband’s sentiment. “We love it here, the wines are great, but it’s amazing to me the number of times I’ve run into people that don’t know the Alexander Valley. I’ve even run into wine people in Napa who don’t know where it is.”

Most Crescere Wines are allocated, but oenophiles can create an account to get access online. While there is currently no tasting room for Crescere, they have plans to build a cabana on their property and even partner with a helicopter company, which can land on the ranch for exclusive tasting experiences. creserewines.com

Sonoma County Town Makes NY Times’ List of ‘Places to Love in 2021’

While the pandemic put an end to much of non-essential travel in 2020, that didn’t stop us from taking imaginary trips to destinations near and far that bring us a sense of adventure, serenity, beauty and joy. Many of us also found a renewed appreciation for our own backyards (figurative and literal) as we spent more time close to home.

In search of special places around the world, The New York Times asked their readers about “the spots that have delighted, inspired and comforted them in a dark year.” The resulting list, “52 Places to Love in 2021,” was published this week and includes one Sonoma County spot: Santa Rosa. Other places mentioned on the list are Isfahan in Iran, the Scottish highlands, Cordoba in Spain, Lake Michigan, Bryce Canyon National Park, the Siwa Oasis in Egypt, and Hokkaido in Japan (see more places featured on the list in the above gallery).

Here’s what New York Times reader and Santa Rosa resident Ria D’Aversa had to say about the city she calls home:

“Santa Rosa is full of majesty. Everything is within reach, including the rough, beautiful Sonoma County coastline. The region brings together so many different experiences: manicured vineyards, a wonderful downtown with breweries and coffee shops, dark-green forests and snaking rivers, mountains and big agricultural valleys.”

D’Aversa, the co-founder of Pennrose Wine, a small natural wine company in Santa Rosa, also mentioned a favorite local park:

“One of my favorite places in Santa Rosa is Trione-Annadel State Park, which, along with other parts of the region, has suffered from wildfires in the last couple of years. People in this agricultural community see the seasons of destruction and renewal up close. They see how the fires hurt the economy and the land. I think of myself as a resilient person; I’ve gone through failures, traumas and upheaval. And I think that’s the ethos for Santa Rosa, too: resilience.”

What places have helped you get through this difficult time? Where have you traveled in your mind? Any favorite destinations in Santa Rosa or Sonoma County? Let us know in the comments.

Sonoma County Restaurants Close for ‘Winter Break’ Amid Coronavirus Shutdown

The dining room at Central Market in Petaluma. (Crista Jeremiason/The Press Democrat)

A growing number of restaurants and food businesses are closing for a “winter break,” citing stay-home restrictions that show no chance of being lifted anytime soon. Since Dec. 12, restaurants have not been allowed to operate outdoor dining areas, reducing their business to takeout only, something most say isn’t worth the effort right now.

Winter always has been a tough season for Sonoma County restaurateurs, but now, many have all but given up after nine-plus months of unprecedented business interruptions due to the pandemic. While only a handful of restaurants have closed since last March in Sonoma County — including Bistro 29, Bruno’s, Local Barrel, The Whole Pie and Tisza Bistro — restaurateurs hope a temporary closure will allow them to conserve resources. With new paycheck protection money and unemployment benefits coming from the federal government, restaurants like Sebastopol’s Fern Bar see an opportunity to take a breather until stay-home orders are lifted.

“To-go sales are not even helping us break even,” said Sam Levy, Fern Bar’s general manager and managing partner. The restaurant in the Barlow closed for “winter hibernation” on Monday. “We’re trying to do right by our team and our bottom line and not exposing ourselves unnecessarily,” he said.

“It’s hard every day to be open and to lose just as much (money) as if we were closed,” he said. “But things are looking up and the stay-at-home order will be lifted and soon everyone will be safe. We’ll get some sunshine and we’ll all come back out and make the most of 2021.”

Other restaurants taking a winter hiatus include McNear’s Saloon & Dining House in Petaluma, Madrona Manor in Healdsburg, Hazel Hill (at the new Montage Hotel in Healdsburg), Chalkboard in Healdsburg and Central Market in Petaluma.

On a positive note: The joys of takeout

With a cold hunk of fried chicken in one hand and a fork in the other, my husband is gyrating around the kitchen to his own music. He’s not usually one for such outbursts of silliness, but his happy food dances are becoming rather frequent as we continue to suss out really good takeout food. “Oh my god, this is good,” he mumbles with his mouth mostly full, late on a Sunday night, rather awkwardly shaking his hips.

Such are the small joys of takeout, we’re realizing. Eating at our own pace, nibbling, grazing and re-enjoying a single meal for up to three days (the New Year’s black-eyed peas just kept on giving). Instead of gobbling up a meal at a restaurant and most likely throwing away the leftovers, we now savor each course hot, then cold, then refrigerated, then for lunch … and so on. Every time is a new experience, and every time is a new treat.

So when you order that $60 to $100 family meal from a spot like Backyard or Spinster Sisters or any of dozens of farm-to-table restaurants putting out seriously tasty takeout, take the time to enjoy it for as long as you like. And maybe do a dance or two in your kitchen.

Petaluma Seafood Market Expands to Include New Restaurant

Fish and chips at Santa Rosa Seafood Raw Bar and Grill at the corner of Santa Rosa Avenue and Petaluma Hill Road in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin)

Petaluma fishmonger Annalicia Svedise has moved her fish market across town to 901 Lakeville St. The daughter of the late Mike Svedise of Santa Rosa Seafood, she’s built her own sustainable seafood empire with line-caught fish primarily sourced from local fishermen. Construction started before the pandemic, and now that it’s finally completed, she’s planning to open a seafood restaurant at the location as well.

Like most food purveyors, Svedise’s business was supported in large part by the restaurant trade and suffered significant losses in the early days of shelter-in-place restrictions. But Svedise said her farm market outlets, the retail store and deliveries throughout the Bay Area have helped her stay afloat.

“So many of the local commercial fishermen depend on my business to help them,” she said. Her products include oysters, clams, sushi-grade fish, smoked salmon, scallops, uni and crab (Dungeness when it finally comes, along with Alaskan). We’re eager to try it out soon! Order online at shopannasseafood.com.