Page 198 – Sonoma Magazine

Guy Fieri Raises $21.5M for Restaurant Workers, Praised for Doing ‘More Than Congress’

December 2020

By Heather Irwin

Santa Rosa Assistant Fire Marshal Paul Lowenthal bumps elbows with celebrity chef Guy Fieri at Memorial Hospital on Wednesday. Fieri brought family, friends and his 48-foot Guy’s Smokehouse Stagecoach mobile kitchen to feed first responders and hospital workers lunch. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat).

As thousands of California restaurant workers were laid off this week due to mandates shuttering in-person dining for the remainder of the year, celebrity chef Guy Fieri is being lauded as a hero of the industry for his $21.5 million Restaurant Employee Relief Fund.

To date, the fund has helped more than 43,000 workers by offering one-time payments of $500, according to its website. Though the fund is now closed to new applicants, some say that Fieri has done more for unemployed restaurant workers during the pandemic than the United States Congress.

A recent Newsweek article quotes a Tweet from author Dan Price as saying, “Guy Fieri has raised $21.5 million for unemployed restaurant workers, which means Guy Fieri has done more for unemployed restaurant workers than Congress has in the last 8 months.”

According to a survey by the National Restaurant Association, released in September, one in six restaurants — or a total of 100,000 establishments nationwide — had closed “either permanently or long-term” six months into the pandemic, leaving nearly 3 million employees out of work. Relief in the form of a $120 billion piece of legislation called the RESTAURANTS Act (Real Economic Support That Acknowledges Unique Restaurant Assistance Needed To Survive) is currently stalled out in Congress. It would help small restaurants stay afloat by giving them funds for payroll, leases and other urgent needs.

Sonoma County’s health officer issued a new stay-home order on Thursday to counter the rapid rise in COVID-19 cases in the county. The new order will take effect at 12:01 a.m. Saturday, Dec. 12, and is set to expire Jan. 9. It will end in-person dining at local restaurants, including outdoor dining.

As local restaurants once again face the difficult question of whether to stay open for takeout and delivery only — which few can survive on — or closing altogether, hope is slowly slipping away that help is coming in any meaningful way.

Let’s hope Guy starts another fundraiser soon, and that much-needed economic relief arrives to local restaurants, or we’ll likely see many closures in the next few months.

Sol Food Coming to Petaluma? Plus Other Sonoma County Dining News

December 2020

By Heather Irwin

Sol Food San Rafael — Sol Food restaurant in San Rafael. (Mike Chappazo / Shutterstock)

The new stay-home order, which comes into effect on Saturday, Dec. 12, will limit restaurant service to takeout and delivery until Jan 9. These are difficult times for local restaurants, wineries and breweries, so make sure to support your local businesses. Here are some more news from the local dining scene:

Sol Food Coming to Petaluma? After years of rumors that San Rafael’s iconic Puerto Rican restaurant might expand to Petaluma, those rumors seem to finally be coming true. The restaurant’s owners recently posted a picture on Facebook of the former, now-empty Sauced space in Theater Square, confirming they’ll be moving in. They promptly got 751 comments, many from their excited northern neighbors lavishing praise on their food. Stay tuned for more details.

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Stark’s returning to regular menu: If you’ve been missing the Stark’s steakhouse menu, they’ll be bringing back your faves this week. Bad news? The popular Brazilian Backyard barbecue has ended.

So Shady: In the “What in the world is wrong with people” category, news broke this week that Shady Oak Barrel House in downtown Santa Rosa had their front window smashed and electronic equipment stolen on Dec. 7. Owners have put up a crowdfunding effort at gofundme.com.

Where to Find the Best Latkes, Sufganiyot and Other Hanukkah Treats in Sonoma County

December 2020

By Heather Irwin

Strawberry jelly filled donut or sufganiyot for Hanukkah at Grossman’s Noshery and Bar in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)

Happy Hanukkah, Y’all!

Whether you celebrate the festival of lights or are just a fan of jelly doughnuts, latkes and rugelach, you can fill up on the tasty treats these local eateries are offering for Hanukkah.

Grossman’s Noshery and Bar: If you really want to do it up right, Grossman’s has your complete Jewish mother’s meal with brisket, braided challah, latkes, apple sauce, pomegranate molasses-roasted carrots and sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts) for $75 for two people. Available Dec. 10 through 18, pick up cold for reheating. Offered a la carte: matzoh ball soup, creamy smoked fish chowder, chopped liver and onions with gribenes, pickled and smoked fish, knish, kippered salmon and latkes. If you have a sweet tooth, choose from challah bread pudding, rugelach, hamantaschen, black and white cookies and artisan halvah. Details online at grossmanssr.com. 308 1/2 Wilson St., Santa Rosa.

City Garden Doughnuts and Coffee: Sufganiyot and Hanukkah sprinkles on cake doughnuts. Pre-orders only, open Friday through Sunday. 1200 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, citygardendoughnuts.com.

Penngrove Market: Wood-fired roasted chicken, potato and veggie latkes, matzoh ball soup and green salad. Call to order, 707-753-4974. 10070 Main St., Penngrove, penngrovemarket.com.

Pop-Up Hanukkah from Park Avenue: This local caterer is offering green salad with tahini apple cider vinaigrette, caramelized onion-braised brisket, roasted winter vegetables and jelly-filled challah doughnuts for $45 per person. Add-ons include roasted sweet potatoes with z’ataar and labnes and traditional latkes with applesauce and nondairy sour cream. Details at parkavecater.com/chanukah

Zoftig: Yummy potato latkes (with applesauce and sour cream) and chocolate rugelach. Order online for takeout at zoftigeatery.com. 57 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa.

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Sonoma County Businesses Respond to Stay-Home Order on Social Media

December 2020

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

Sonoma County’s health officer issued a new stay-home order on Thursday to counter the rapid rise in COVID-19 cases in the county (the rate of new infections has nearly doubled in the past two weeks, causing concern among hospital workers about the potential for a surge in cases to overwhelm their resources). The new order will take effect at 12:01 a.m. Saturday, Dec. 12, and is set to expire Jan. 9

The county’s new stay-home order will end indoor and outdoor dining at restaurants and service at breweries and wineries, halt nonessential hotel and vacation home stays and bar services like haircuts. Under the new order, retail operations are allowed to remain open at 20% of customer capacity, or 35% capacity for stand-alone grocery stores. (Learn more about the new stay-home order here).

Following the announcement of the new stay-home order, local businesses took to social media to let customers know how they will be affected by the shutdown, and how customers can continue to patronize these businesses through, for example, online shopping, takeout and curbside pickup, as well as by buying gift cards. Click through the above gallery to see some of the social media posts.

Where to Find the Best Tacos Al Pastor in Sonoma County

December 2020

By Heather Irwin

Tacos al Pastor from Cielito Lindo restaurant in Santa Rosa. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Inspired by the shawarma of Lebanese herders who immigrated to Mexico, al pastor — literally meaning “of the shepherd” — is a deeply flavorful marinated pork with chiles and (if you’re lucky) cooked on a vertical spit with bits of sweet pineapple. Click through the gallery for our favorite spots for al pastor.

What’s your favorite spot for al pastor? Let us know in the comments.

How to Manage Stress in a Holistic Way, According to a Local Ayurvedic Specialist

December 2020

By Matt Villano

It’s no secret that 2020 has been a tough year. What started as general concern about the novel coronavirus virus in late January has metastasized into stress and anxiety about the pandemic’s toll on our lives, health, economy and society. Now, as we near the end of 2020, we also look back on a year of political turmoil and social unrest and, in California, a series of wildfires that have further exacerbated fears about the faster pace of climate change and its implications for present and future generations.

Deacon Carpenter, a clinical Ayurvedic specialist and yoga teacher based in Healdsburg, is helping people navigate our present situation by adopting a holistic approach to mental and physical health. Carpenter is the author of “A Little Bit of Ayurveda: An Introduction to Ayurvedic Medicine” and is the founder of Well Sonoma in downtown Santa Rosa, a health center that uses integrative therapies, such as yoga, Ayurveda, naturopathic medicine, and craniosacral therapy, to promote well-being. These types of complementary and alternative approaches to medicine are rising in popularity — two separate 2015 studies indicated that about a third of Americans practice this type of care, and even healthcare juggernauts such as Kaiser Permanente now offer alternative approaches to medicine, such as acupuncture.

Sonoma Magazine and The Press Democrat contributor Matt Villano sat down (over Zoom) with Carpenter to get some tips on managing stress and improving mental health. Here is an edited transcript of that interview.

What makes you different from a psychologist?

With Ayurvedic medicine, we don’t look at symptoms that the patient is exhibiting, but instead we look at the whole patient. Part of the work that I do is talk therapy. It’s also lifestyle changes, diet and herbal therapies. If someone is struggling with anxiety, we do talk therapy but we also take a look at how they live and other things in their lives that are influencing their anxiety and we make wholesale changes rather than just prescribe medicine or therapy. It’s a much more holistic approach.

What are the benefits of a holistic approach to well-being?

The biggest benefit is focusing on cure rather than management. Our focus is to make the patient well from the ground up and also help them understand their own challenges and idiosyncrasies, what their triggers are and how to prevent them from being triggered further.

What piqued your interest in this area of well-being?

Personal experience. I struggled with weight for most of my younger life. When I was 16, I was 330 pounds. At my lowest weight I was 160 pounds. Right now I’m 190 pounds. For my height and body frame, that’s where I need to be. I’m now 47 and I’ve remained the same weight within 10 or 15 pounds since I was 16. It’s long-lasting. What I love about Ayurvedic medicine is that it gives the patient opportunity to be an active participant in their own health. Your learn how to fine-tune your own idiosyncrasies and your own imbalances so that you can prevent these imbalances from occurring.

How important is wellness right now?

Incredibly important. Most people have only a vague understanding of what ‘wellness’ is. I prefer the term, ‘well-being.’ That encompasses not just individual mindfulness and personal routines but also outward-facing activities, such as socializing and interacting with others, even if it’s at a distance. This all contributes to how we feel. If someone doesn’t understand what it feels like to be well, they’re not going to be able to do a good job at wellness. So we really need to break it down and find out what’s important to each of us as individuals, what we all need.

Generally speaking, what should we be valuing during this crazy time?

I was born in the UK, where the health conversation is all around prevention, and getting in front of a disease or imbalance. Here in the United States we tend to think of our health and well-being secondarily; things like work and family commitments come first. But you can’t pour from an empty cup. You have to be mindful of that. You must prioritize the whole being.

What’s the first step toward doing that?

Good habits. Ask yourself: What habits have you developed over the course of the last 8 months? What has changed for you? Do you have a routine? Have you been walking every day? Have you adopted bad habits? Have you ordered all the wine? Once you take a look at how you have managed stress, ask yourself how you can evolve those habits to make them more positive, so that they are better for your health and well-being. Ask yourself: Are you willing to evolve, edit, and adapt your lifestyle? The word, ‘change’ makes a lot of people run screaming for the hills, so we try to stay away from that word.

Why is change so scary for people?

It’s one of several words people have a hard time with. If I’m dispensing knowledge to you and I say, ‘You should change,’ that’s me imposing my will. I don’t live in your world. I don’t live in your body. For me to make that statement is arbitrary and punitive. How do you meet people where they are in their journeys and help them evolve? That’s the real question.

What’s the next step?

It’s important to talk to your social network. Connect with people whom you trust and ask them who they are seeing, and what has helped them. There are so many fabulous people in our county offering really great treatments: yoga therapy, talk therapy, and movement therapy, just to name a few. Ask for recommendations and you’ll be surprised how many you get.

After that, how do you know a practitioner is right for you?

So much of this is about finding the right person—someone who has a style that works for you. The best way to do that is to simply do your homework. Interview the person. Go to the practitioner’s website and read what the person is offering. My job is to be a quarterback for my clients. By the time they find me, they’re ready to evolve their habits and edit their lifestyle.

Finances are tight for a lot of people. What do you do if you can’t afford to pay for good therapy?

A lot of people who do what I do are happy to work with people who can’t afford rack-rate prices. We want to be able to provide services for everyone seeking them. When you want to see if a therapist is willing to negotiate on the rate, just ask. If you currently have limited income, state that in the beginning and you’ll find someone who will work with you.

What can people do privately to help manage stress?

Definitely keep a journal; journaling is very much underrated. When I start working with people I have them keep a food journal and they become more objective. Writing things down gives you the opportunity to reflect on situations. Writing it down and just ‘being with it’ can really help.

What mistakes do people commonly make on the wellness journey?

Most of the time, people think this is going to be a five-minute fix and that’s it. That’s a huge mistake. One of the conversations that we as practitioners are having now centers on the question ‘What were our clients dealing with before the pandemic that they’re now managing despite everything else?’ It’s an ongoing journey. The journey is the destination. We have to be in this for the long haul. This is about sustainable habits versus a quick shock change.

If you could tell people to remember one thing about managing stress, what would it be?

Don’t take it so seriously. Be light with your approach. Understand that you can only start where you are. When I started teaching yoga 8 or 9 years ago, I’d look at my students and they’d be looking around at each other. So I took all the mirrors out. We all have individual needs and individual physiologies and individual stories, and it’s important to understand what are the most important things for you. There’s no pass or fail. Having that perspective of being on your own path is important.

Illuminated Art Installations Brighten Winter Nights in Sonoma County

December 2020

By Dana Rebmann

Things are looking bright in downtown Healdsburg. Amidst the dark winter nights of the pandemic, longtime resident and artist Jessica Martin has found a brilliant way to bring cheer to residents, visitors and local businesses.

Since late October, Martin has been curating a series of temporary artworks — street art, murals, light installations, video and interactive art – in Healdsburg’s downtown shopping district. The outdoor art series, named Voices, features works by more than a dozen artists. It kicked off on Oct. 30 with street paintings of giant marigolds in honor of Dia de los Muertos, followed by the installation of nearly a dozen 20-foot murals. Now, with the launch of the third part of the Voices series — “Illuminations” — on Dec. 4, Martin’s curating efforts are truly starting to shine.

“The immediate goal is to use art to bring wonder and joy and meaningful connection to our town in this really difficult time and to support our local businesses by encouraging people to walk around town in all the different areas of the commercial districts,” Martin said.

“Illuminations“ is a modern, artistic take on holiday light installations, featuring light sculptures and video projections. Those interested in viewing the exhibit can download an app (designed by installation artist Hugh Livingston) that plays stories, interviews, music and sound clips chosen by the artists to accompany their installations along a walking tour. Go to artinhealdsburg.com/map to see the locations of the artworks.

Local artists, deep ties to Sonoma County

All artists involved in the Voices series either live in Sonoma County or have deep ties to the area. Alexander Valley resident Alice Warnecke Sutro will project her animated line drawings of local business owners and employees onto downtown Healdsburg walls at alternating sites. After hearing Martin’s vision for “Illuminations,” Warnecke Sutro said she knew she wanted to contribute to the project and be an advocate for shopping local.

“I hope onlookers take away that here in Healdsburg, there is a distinct group of contemporary artists who are invested in promoting their area and conserving the range of businesses that make a small town dynamic, where it is a pleasure to live, raise families and make art,” Warnecke Sutro said.

Along with Warnecke Sutro, “Illuminations” installation artists include Martin, Livingston, Sklo, Victoria Wagner, Moey Nelson, Philip Pasqualino, Heike Liss and Linus Lancaster.

In addition to the commissioned light installations, “Illuminations” features “light environments” such as light tunnels and projections in storefronts and along pathways and corridors. Starting in mid-December, Healdsburg Plaza also will be illuminated by a custom interactive art piece called “New Year’s Light.” As part of this installation, local businesses will hand out free LED votive candles and postcards for penning new year’s wishes and intentions, which visitors can then add to the display.

“I wanted to have something collaborative where the community can come together and create a light sculpture together,” Martin said.

A dream come true

Martin said she has been dreaming of organizing “Illuminations” and the other Voices projects for years. The pandemic provided an opportunity to turn ideas into reality.

A grant from Creative Sonoma this fall, along with funding from Sonoma County, the National Endowment for the Arts, the Healdsburg Tourism Improvement District and the Rotary Club of Healdsburg allowed the project to grow exponentially.

In the midst of planning and preparations came wildfire evacuations, and a contributing artist lost a home. But the community came together in support, paving the way for what Martin hopes will become an annual event filled with meaningful pieces that will add a little extra sparkle to the season.

“Now more than ever, we need light in our lives,” Martin said. “The light in each piece speaks to our tremendous resilience, creativity and interconnection.”

The light installations will be on display through January 2021; film projection pieces will be shown from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Friday through Sunday. All of the art projects are designed to allow viewers to see the works while social distancing.

New Napa Wineries, Restaurants, Bars and Experiences to Check Out Right Now

December 2020

By Jess Lander

Hopes Oasis is made for Covid-era wine tasting. (Courtesy photo)

If you’ve got a case of the winter blues, a safe and easy trip to Napa might be just what you need to lift your spirits. Here’s a list of new places to sip, savor, shop, stay, and play in Napa Valley. Remember to wear a mask and social distance!

New in downtown Napa

The California Brandy House offers a nice break from wine tasting, — The California Brandy House offers a nice break from wine tasting. (Courtesy photo)

Be Bubbly

Partly inspired by Sigh in Sonoma, Napa Valley finally has its own dedicated sparkling wine bar. Be Bubbly has over 100 bottles of bubbles on offer sourced from all over the globe, ranging from high-end champagnes to domestic sparklers, and even some international surprises, like a Chenin Blanc sparkling from South Africa. Bubbles are available by the glass, half-bottle, and bottle and there’s a small plate menu featuring grilled cheesy toast sticks, cheese boards, caviar, and more. 1407 2nd St., Napa, bebubblynapa.com

New Shops at First Street Napa

First Street Napa has completely revitalized Napa’s downtown area in the last few years and a slew of new independent retailers have opened up in the past several months, just in time for holiday shopping. Stock up on 2021 reading materials at Copperfield’s Books, shop women’s clothing and accessories at Honey Whiskey, Tay & Grace, or I-ELLE, style your pup at Milo and Friends Pet Boutique, or spruce up your home for a long winter with greenery from Riza Plants, a botanical boutique—just to name a few. 1300 1st St. Napa, firststreetnapa.com

California Brandy House

Also new to First Street Napa is a welcome break from the area’s dozen or so wine tasting rooms: California Brandy House. Wind down from your big day shopping with a flight of California brandies from Germain-Robin and Argonaut, including single-barrel samples. 1300 1st St., Suite 309, Napa, californiabrandyhouse.com

New at The Oxbow

Bar Lucia is a wine bar for rosé lovers. (Courtesy photo)

Just across the bridge from downtown Napa, the Oxbow Public Market has new offerings for food and drink. Right next to Kara’s Cupcakes (and from the same owner), Bar Lucia specializes in all things pink, that is, rosé. Also new to the Oxbow: A long-beloved food stand at the SF Ferry Building, El Porteno serves up flaky and delicious empanadas, inspired by the owner’s Argentine heritage. Empanadas are available in a myriad of flavors, like Camarones (Bay shrimp with parmesan and green onions) and Jamon y Queso (Proscuitto with fontina cheese). 601 1st St., Napa, oxbowpublicmarket.com

New ways to dine outdoors

Gran Electrica repurposed planters into picnic beds. (Courtesy photo)

Napa, like Sonoma County, has gone back to the restrictive Purple Tier, which means indoor dining is prohibited. Some restaurants have gotten especially creative and are offering unique outdoor dining experiences that are worth it for the photo op alone. Chow down on tacos and a margarita on Gran Electrica’s sunny picnic beds (built into planter boxes), or for something a little more upscale, dine in The Charter Oak’s cozy yurt village.

New wineries

Faust Haus

Design lovers will totally geek out at Faust Haus, a new hilltop winery set in an old Victorian that was painstakingly restored over a four-year period. While indoor tastings are currently not permitted due to Covid-19 restrictions, the outdoor vignettes with mid-century modern furnishings provide some of the best views of Napa Valley for enjoying Faust’s Coombsville cabernets. 2867 St Helena Hwy, St. Helena, faustwines.com

BRION Winery

Set in a restored “bank barn” that dates back to 1876, one of two left in California, BRION Winery opened for tastings just south of downtown Yountville this fall. The exterior of the historic barn maintains much of its original redwood siding and rustic feel, creating a sharp contrast to the caliber of wines being produced there. Brion has partnered with not one, but three iconic Napa winemakers, so you certainly won’t be disappointed by the juice—or the views. 5537 Solano Ave., Napa, brionwines.com

Oasis by Hoopes

Arguably the most chill spot in Napa Valley, Oasis by Hoopes is a literal outdoor oasis that’s surrounded by vineyards and perfect for safe wine tastings. The space features air streams, an organic garden, cozy and upcycled lounge seating, a teepee, farm stand, and rescued farm animals (chickens, goats, a donkey, a turkey, and more). 6204 Washington St., Napa, hoopesvineyard.com

Something salty

Markham's Sips & Chips tasting is one of three Napa offerings that pairs chips with wine. (Courtesy photo) — Markham’s Sips & Chips tasting is one of three Napa offerings that pairs chips with wine. (Courtesy photo)

Wine and cheese pairings may be tried and true, but they’re also inarguably overdone. Luckily, there’s a new food and wine pairing trend in town and it’s likely not something you’d expect: wine and potato chips. Three Napa Valley wineries have launched a wine and potato chip pairing. Check out experiences like the Potato Chip Extravaganza from Silver Trident Winery, Sips & Chips from Markham Vineyards, and the Salt & Acid Pairing from Shadowbox Cellars (one of their chip flavors is a Dry Aged Ribeye).

A new(ish) spot for R&R

Dr. Wilkonsons reopens this month after extensive rennovations. (Courtesy photo) — Dr. Wilkinson’s reopens this month after extensive renovations. (Courtesy photo)

The iconic Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort, founded in 1952 in Calistoga, has completed a major transformation and re-opens mid-January, so now is the time to make your reservations. Renamed Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs, the resort is practically unrecognizable thanks to a contemporary and totally-chic makeover that includes updated rooms, a new spa (featuring four mud baths, three geothermal mineral pools, CBD experiences, a garden, and more), and a new restaurant, House of Better. 1507 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, drwilkinson.com

Napa’s new drive-in

Napa Movie Nights is a pop-up drive in event held at the Napa Expo. (Courtesy photo)

If you’re sick of watching movies from your couch, Napa’s new drive-in at the Fairgrounds (where BottleRock is held) is a great way to safely get your movie theatre fix. A pop-up drive-in experience, Napa Movie Nights shows flicks Thursday to Sunday each week and they range from children’s classics like Hook and Toy Story to adult favorites, like Star Wars and The Matrix. Napa Valley Expo, 575 3rd St., Napa, teammoralesevents.com

Biggest 2020 Sonoma County Restaurant Openings and Closings

December 2020

By Heather Irwin

To say restaurants have had a tough year is an understatement. Ongoing restrictions since March on indoor dining because of the coronavirus pandemic have forced them to reconstruct their business models and increasingly depend on outdoor dining. Then the fires and smoke of recent months made even that a challenge.

Sadly, some restaurants couldn’t survive, but many did. And despite the odds, more than 25 local restaurants debuted this year.

With happiness and sorrow in our hearts, we’ve heard the incredible stories of both hope and loss. We anxiously hold our breath to see if those still open now will make it to spring or summer when life, hopefully, starts returning to normal.

Here are the openings and closings of 2020.

Top Five Openings

Wit & Wisdom: Stem to stern, every dish at this Michael Mina restaurant at The Lodge at Sonoma hits the mark, then exceeds it. Experience, a strong staff and an approachable, yet refined, menu made this the restaurant to beat when it came to 2020 openings. Duck wings and roasted carrots still haunt our food dreams. 1325 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-931-3405, witandwisdomsonoma.com

Blue Ridge Kitchen: Here’s another top contender for best opening of the year. Dishes are Southern-ish, but what we love best is the mix of elevated technique and passion from the kitchen. New dishes frequently grace the menu, like the recent cioppino, but favorites like the required croque madame make it a great spot to return to. 6770 McKinley St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, brkitchen.com

Grossman’s: This Jewish-style deli officially opened in March the week the shelter-in-place order began, putting a bit of a damper on what was slated to be one of the highest-profile openings in 2020. The Starks have pivoted endlessly to maintain enthusiasm for their incredible cocktails, matzoh ball soup, dumplings, smoked meats and bagels. Perfect for an upcoming Hanukkah nosh. 308½ Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com

Street Social: With just six closely spaced tables, this Petaluma restaurant took it hard when indoor dining was shut down. Owners Jevon Martin and Marjorie Pier reinvented themselves with takeout fried chicken and a handful of outdoor tables. They offer luxe takeout like bone-in short rib with red flint polenta and pomegranate jus. 29 F Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-774-6185, streetsocial.social

PizzaLeah: This small Windsor pizzeria opened during the early weeks of the pandemic, but what put them high on our radar was the incredible effort owner Leah Scurto made to feed neighbors and first responders during the fall fires. Her pizza is dang delicious, too. 9240 Old Redwood Highway, Suite 116, Windsor, 707-620-0551, pizzaleah.com

More Great Openings

Grata Windsor: Gnuddi shrimp diavola is a top pick at this family-friendly spot owned by a former Stark’s chef. 186 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 707-620-0508, gratawindsor.com

Cozy Plum: What we’re most taken with at Cozy Plum is their lighthearted approach to comfort food with a vegan twist and their passion for making beautiful dishes. 1899 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-526-3333, cozyplum.com

Seafood & Eat: Kin to Down to Earth Cafe in Cotati, this place makes seafood the star. Fish and chips and fish tacos are faves.

Los Molcajetes: Yes, this is a sibling to the popular Molcajetes restaurant in Santa Rosa which rose to fame after Guy Fieri featured it on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” As the names suggest, molcajete — a hearty stew of meats, seafood, vegetables, cheese and salsa in a stone bowl — is the signature dish. 6599 Montecito Blvd., No. 130, Santa Rosa, 707-791-7571.

Kivelstadt Cellars: A favorite “secret” spot just outside Sonoma is this cozy little world of delicious brunch and lunch dishes with a killer wine list. 22900 Broadway, Sonoma, kivelstadtcellars.com

4th Street Social Club: Finding restaurants with strong appeal for meat eaters and plant eaters alike is as rare as civil discourse on politics at Christmas. It’s a dream but rarely a reality. Enter 4th Street Social with faux “lox,” jackfruit “chick’n” nuggets and solid cocktails. 643 4th St., Santa Rosa, 4thstreetsocialclub.com

Chicken Nature: This addition to the Marlow shopping center in Santa Rosa serves Asian food and simple but hearty chicken dishes like chicken curry puffs, tangy tamarind chicken rice bowls, curry rice bowls and poached chicken and rice. 1791 Marlow Road, Santa Rosa, chickennature.com

Flavor Bistro: The popular downtown Santa Rosa eatery shuttered in November 2016 as construction on Courthouse Square lagged. This year, it reopened in a small bistro that formerly housed a Caribbean restaurant in Sebastopol near the former Peter Lowell’s. Expect a slightly reduced menu but most of the old favorites. 7365 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, flavorbistro.com

Corner Project Ales and Eats: This family-run brewpub has one brother brewing and the other manning the kitchen. More than just fried pub grub, Chef Tom Adamian’s menu includes comforting dishes like meatball sandwiches, gem salad and tomato salad. Locally sourced, the menu changes weekly. 21079 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, cornerprojectales.com

Valley Bar + Bottle: Valley Bar + Bottle opened in July as a wine bar, restaurant and bottle shop. Housed in the Leese-Fitch Adobe built in 1836, which was most recently Harvest Moon Cafe, it feels like a French neighborhood cafe. The concept for the fare is California home cooking that’s ingredient-driven, rustic and simple. 487 First St. W., Sonoma, valleybarandbottle.com

April Pantry: Established at the former Ulia’s Deli in a Petaluma office park, April Pantry has some serious talent making crave-worthy sandwiches and salads. Menu favorites include the Billionaire’s BLT, the grilled cheese sandwich, the barbecue pork banh mi and the Aloha Plate with fresh macaroni salad and fried chicken. 1000 Clegg St., Petaluma, 707-658-1326, aprilpantry.com

Cielito Lindo: This Mexican cuisine spot opened in February in the former Pamposh Indian restaurant location on Mission Boulevard and Highway 12. 52 Mission Blvd. No. 110, Santa Rosa, 707-978-2070.

Simmer Claw Bar: Owner Nhat Le, whose family also owns Simmer Vietnamese restaurants in Rohnert Park and Petaluma, features Southern-meets-Saigon seafood boils at this restaurant. 595 Rohnert Park Expressway, Rohnert Park, 707-806-2080.

Acre Pizza: Detroit and classic pizza styles are available. 6760 McKinley St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, acrepizza.com

Vinoma: A Rohnert Park gas station is home to this place for authentic Argentine empanadas, a classic grab-and-go meal of meat, cheese and veggies filling pastry pockets. 5085 Redwood Drive, Rohnert Park, vinoma.net

Creperie Chez Solange: Authentic French crepes come in buckwheat flour savory or white flour sweet varieties. 462 Larkfield Center, Santa Rosa, 707-791-7633

Village Bakery: This popular bakery reopened in Santa Rosa. 2404 Magowan Drive, Santa Rosa.

Scowley’s Burgers: This spot for beefy burgers in Petaluma opened in the fall. 229 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-981-7746, scowleys.com

The Mill at Glen Ellen: A lovely outdoor space and comfort classics grace the historic mill property. 14301 Arnold Drive, Suite 32, Glen Ellen, 707-721-1818.

Flavor Burger: This Windsor spot has great burgers and fries. 6560 Hembree Lane, No. 178, Windsor, 707-836-4096, orderflavorburgercafe.com

Let’s not Forget the Food Trucks

Charro Negro: The best ocean-to-table tacos and tostadas in Sonoma County, hands down. Rodrigo Mendoza is a former Willi’s Seafood chef who made the leap to a mobile kitchen. He runs El Charro Negro with business partner Ricardo Ibarra in a brilliantly colored, hash-tagged and social media-ready truck that’s impossible to miss at its usual Roseland spot, the Mitote Food Park. 665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa.

Tamales Oaxacenos: California cuisine-inspired ingredients like extra virgin olive oil, finishing salt, edible flowers and microgreens add panache to this tamale seller at Roseland’s Mitote Food Park. Read more. 665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa.

We Say Goodbye

It’s been a tough year for restaurants, and a tough winter is yet to come. Here are some of the restaurants we lost.

Osteria Stellina: This longtime Point Reyes pasta shack garnered national praise for its regional Italian cuisine before closing last summer.

Bistro 29: This French-inspired restaurant was an early loss last spring.

Tisza Bistro: This Windsor spot serving Eastern European-Californian cuisine had a three-year run that began during the Tubbs fire, when Chef Krisztian Karkus fed evacuees panini sandwiches. Tisza closed in August.

Whole Pie: Trish Davis’ buttery, crumbly crusts and toppings live on in our dreams.

Bollywood: Owner Sonu Chandi of Chandi Hospitality Group cited prohibitions on indoor dining and an early and prolonged fire season as reasons for the closure of this downtown Santa Rosa spot with modern Indian cuisine.

Meadowood: Napa’s Michelin-starred icon burned in this year’s wildfires.

Khum Koon Thai Cafe: The casual Thai eatery in downtown Windsor served satisfying, affordable Thai classics from an extensive menu.

Bruno’s on Fourth: The cozy McDonald neighborhood bistro in Santa Rosa that charmed Sunday brunchers and weeknight regulars for more than a decade closed, and owners Linn and Rick Bruno focused on their second restaurant, Ricky’s Eastbound in Skyhawk Village.

Three Twins Ice Cream: Petaluma ice cream entrepreneur Neal Gottlieb announced in April the company would cease operations after 15 years in business. Gottlieb said Three Twins’ business model had become financially unsustainable even before the pandemic, but the stresses of this year erased any chance of recovery.

Whisper Sisters: This bar and creative eatery opened in February 2019 in downtown Petaluma before it was lost to the pandemic.

Brass Rabbit: This ode to classic French cuisine on Healdsburg Plaza was another casualty of the pandemic. The restaurant’s small size and lack of any real patio seating may have been its death knell.

Jaded Toad Windsor: This barbecue spot closed its Windsor location, but its Cotati location remains.

5 Sonoma Wineries With An Italian Vibe

December 2020

By Linda Murphy

Some of the most recognizable names in Sonoma wine are Italian: A. Rafanelli, Foppiano, Gallo, Martinelli, Pedroncelli, Rochioli, Sebastiani and Seghesio, to name just a few.

The founders of these wineries, largely from Italy’s Tuscany region, made their way to California in the mid- to late-1800s, many of them attracted by the Gold Rush. When the gold petered out, they scattered throughout the state, with large concentrations landing in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. The the soil and arid climate here reminded them of home and the grapes, tomatoes, peppers and olives they grew there to feed their families.

It’s a testament to the determination of Sonoma’s transplanted Italians that so many of their wineries flourish today, having weathered Prohibition, war and financial depressions. The rustic zinfandels, petite sirahs, barberas, carignanes and “mixed blacks” field blends they bottled a century ago have evolved into wines with more refinement and superior quality. Sangiovese, nebbiolo, aglianico and dolcetto and white varietals pinot grigio, vermentino, malvasia and moscato are now fashionable, their production encouraged by the children and grandchildren of those first-wave Italians.

COVID-19 has made travel to Italy nearly impossible right now, but not to worry. Several Sonoma wineries exude an Italian vibe that will remind visitors of Tuscany, without the plane flight or need for an English-to-Italian dictionary. Here are five that deliver a sense of la dolce vita, for their Italian brand names, wines produced, architecture, design and experiences offered. All winery visits are by appointment only and conducted outdoors.

Acorn Winery

Owners Betsy and Bill Nachbaur are not Italian, although their devotion to Italian grape varieties and old-vine zinfandel is as strong as a Tuscan day is long. The couple purchased Alegría Vineyard in 1990, located in the southeastern, warmest section of Russian River Valley and originally part of the 1841 Sotoyome land grant. It was planted, beginning in the 1890s, to a dizzying array of varieties, among them zinfandel, sangiovese, alicante bouchet, petite sirah, carignane, syrah, bastardo and graciano.

Bill, who thought he would be a lawyer, instead jumped headlong into viticulture. Betsy soon joined him full-time in the business of growing grapes for other wineries. In 1994, they establish their own Acorn brand, holding back fruit for themselves and selling to a shorter list of producers. All their bold, hearty wines come from their vineyard — zinfandel, sangiovese, dolcetto, rosato (rosé), syrah, cabernet franc and proprietary blends Medley and Acorn Hill. Production is just 3,000 cases a year, and each wine is a “field blend” in which the primary variety is fermented with other grape types, adding depth and complexity.

Tastings are $30 per person and are personal, with Betsy or Bill pouring. Bill is happy to lead physically distanced, masked tours of the vineyard for those who are interested. Just say so at the time of booking.

12040 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-433-6440, acornwinery.com

Battaglini Winery & Vineyard

Everything old is new again at Battaglini. A visit here is refreshing for its lack of fussiness, reminiscent of tasting at a rural Tuscan winery where the ambiance comes from the rustic surroundings and hardworking people who obviously love what they do. Don’t be surprised if you smell food cooking on the stove, hear Italian music or see family members playing bocce when you arrive.

Giuseppe J. Battaglini came to the U.S. in 1956 with the desire to grow grapes as his family did in Tuscany. “Joe” met his wife, Lucia, in San Francisco in 1961, and in 1988, they were finally able to buy the Lagomarsino Winery in Santa Rosa. The zinfandel and petite sirah vines planted there, in what is now the Russian River Valley, date to 1885. They were sold under contract to Beringer Vineyards in Napa Valley; the Battaglinis were able to produce their first wines from their fruit with the 1994 vintage. Four zins and a petite sirah are made from the ancient vines; chardonnay, rosato (rosé) and late-harvest chardonnay are also poured.

2948 Piner Road, Santa Rosa, 707-318-8944, battagliniwines.com

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery

Second-generation Italian Americans Don and Rhonda Carano, hoteliers from Reno, built this grand Italian-inspired estate (with a hint of French château) in 1981. Don honored his grandmother, Amelia Ferrari, by adding her to the winery name. F-C has been a visitor magnet for three decades, thanks to Rhonda’s exquisite gardens and fountain, the serene and expansive view of Dry Creek Valley from the north looking south and Villa Fiore, the hospitality center. The design is a modern replica of a northern Italian villa, with an Enoteca tasting bar in the underground cellar (not open during the pandemic) and tasting areas on terraces overlooking the vineyards.

Now part of the Foley Family Wines group, Ferrari-Carano debuted two new tastings this fall. The Sycamore Grove Tasting includes a flight of four single-vineyard wines paired with Italian-inspired bites, encompassing ingredients from the garden. $50 per person. There are two Il Terrazzo Tastings on the patio, with four wines and the option to purchase a cheese and charcuterie board. The Traditional tasting is $20 per person; Reserve is $30. The wines poured run the gamut, from Italian to Burgundian to Bordeaux varietals. Open Thursday through Sunday.

8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 800-831-0381, ferrari-carano.com

Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

Fred and Nancy Cline, of Cline Family Cellars in Sonoma, opened Jacuzzi in 2007 to honor Fred’s grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi, whose family invented the famous spa pump. Valeriano, an immigrant from Carsasa, Italy, taught Fred how to grow wine grapes, and while the Clines first focused on Rhone-variety wines at Cline Cellars, Jacuzzi is devoted to Italian-style wines, among them arneis, moscato, pinot grigio, barbera, teroldego, aglianico, dolcetto and nebbiolo. Chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon are also produced.

The winery and visitor center, built across the street from Cline, were inspired by both the Jacuzzi family home in Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia region and medieval monasteries. The large farmhouse-style stone structure has a watch tower and a main piazza in its center, where guests taste wine and picnic. An 80-some-year-old fig tree, transplanted to Sonoma from the Valeriani ancestral ranch, provides shelter from the elements. The interior — which will reopen after pandemic restrictions are eased — is filled with rustic furnishings, Italian art and a Venetian chandelier. The tasting bar and gift shop are crammed with visitors in high, non-COVID, season.

In 2013, the Clines purchased The Olive Press, adjacent to Jacuzzi. Their own olive oils, and those of others who contract for pressing services, are a big draw. The winery and olive press area are open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Thursday.

24724 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-931-7575, jacuzziwines.com

Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery

Tuscan immigrant Samuele Sebastiani could not have predicted, when he founded his winery in the heart of Sonoma in 1904, that multigenerational squabbling over how to run the business would eventually force its sale. The saga is long and complicated, with a deep cast of characters, among them Samuele’s son and daughter-in-law, August and Sylvia, and grandchildren Don, Sam and Mary Ann, who eventually sold to Bill Foley, now of Foley Family Wines, in 2008.

The result today is a winery with a pared-down approach to producing a wide range of wines from Sonoma County grapes (in its heyday, Sebastiani’s second-label wines sourced grapes from throughout California) and offering visitor experiences that include telling the history of the Sebastiani family. Prior to Foley’s purchase, the hospitality center underwent a major redesign in 2001, with then-President and CEO Mary Ann Sebastiani Cuneo modernized the tasting room with an 80-foot curved bar of concrete and limestone, vaulted ceilings and retrofitted stone walls, columns and archways. Under coronavirus restrictions, Sebastiani offers daily seated tastings on its courtyard, 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The Seated Wine Tasting is $35 for the Classic Flight and $40 for the Signature Flight. The Cherryblock Vineyard Tour and Tasting ($75) takes place in the vineyard north of the winery, planted to mostly cabernet sauvignon in 1961. Space heaters and a covered tent are available for cold or rainy days.

389 Fourth St. E., Sonoma, 707-933-3200, sebastiani.com