Calling all holiday decor fanatics: We’ve picked out a few of our favorite ornaments, made by Sonoma County artisans or sourced from around the world and available in local stores. Buy one of these treasures for your home and gain some festive style plus shop-local pride. Click through the above gallery for details.
Drinking sparkling wine is a year-long ritual for many, yet some save it for end-of-year holidays, most obviously on New Year’s Eve. The time to sip and shop is now, and the choices of Sonoma-made bubbly are many.
Three decades ago, a handful of Sonoma County wineries mastered the time-consuming techniques for making sparklers that mirror the quality and depth of true Champagne, which relies on chardonnay and pinot noir for the base wines and a secondary fermentation in the bottle, called méthode champenoise or méthode traditionnelle.
In the 1980s, Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, Iron Horse Vineyards, J Vineyards & Winery and Piper Sonoma joined Korbel Champagne Cellars (established 100 years earlier) as power players in the local sparkling wine scene, turning sunny California fruit into wines with brioche and toasty aromas and flavors, a fine bead of tiny bubbles and crackling acidity.
More recently, wines made with less-intensive methods, and/or using nontraditional grape varieties, have burst upon the scene. There are pétillant naturels, or pét-nats, which are bottled while still undergoing a first fermentation and closed with a crown cap instead of a cork. The French call this process méthode ancestral, with the yeast staying in contact with the wine until the cap is removed. Out gushes a fruity, slightly creamy and easy-to-drink sparkler that lacks the complexity of Champagne-like wines yet is crowd-pleasing for its simplicity.
Some wineries apply the charmat method to carbonate their wines in large steel tanks, adding carbon dioxide to create the bubbles. Like pét-nats, these wines are all about the fruit; they are non-fussy yet satisfying, ready to enjoy soon after bottling and typically cost half as much as méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines. Zinfandel, syrah, malbec, sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer are showing up in Sonoma-produced bubblies, thus expanding the aromas and flavors beyond the more traditional chardonnay and pinot noir.
For holiday-time fizz tasting and bubbly bottle purchases, try these Sonoma wineries. (Click through the above gallery to see the tasting rooms.)
Amista owners Mike and Vicky Farrow had their hearts set on producing sparkling wine when they bought what is now called Morningsong Vineyards in 1999. They added syrah to the chardonnay vines, purchased cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel grapes from others and released their first wines in 2005. Three years later, they launched their sparkling syrah, a relatively bold move in Sonoma yet a long-established tradition in Australia. So besotted with sparkling wines were the Farrows that they created the Amista Sparkling Friends wine club in 2014. Winemaker Ashley Herzberg bottles a wide array of méthode traditionnelle wines for this Dry Creek Valley winery, in addition to still (table) wines. The reserve tasting experience ($40) includes sparkling and still wines.
3320 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-9200, amistavineyards.com
Rack & Riddle Custom Wine Services co-founder Rebecca Faust and her sisters, Cynthia Faust and Sharon Cohn, created Breathless Wines to honor their mother, Martha Jane Faust, who died of a rare respiratory condition — but not before teaching her daughters the joy of each breath taken. Unofficial fourth sister, Penny Gadd-Coster, is their winemaker, and her méthode traditionnelle sparklers are fresh and lively, with three new wines introduced in 2021: two single-vineyard blancs de noir from the Robledo Vineyard in Sonoma and a blanc de blancs from the McMinn Vineyard in Russian River Valley. Guests can choose from three different wine flights ($20) and add cheese and charcuterie boxes and caviar for additional costs.
499 Moore Lane, Healdsburg, 707-395-7300, breathlesswines.com
Spain’s Ferrer family came to Sonoma in 1982 and established the first sparkling wine house in Carneros, in 1986. The parent company, Freixenet, was acquired by Henkell and Co. in 2018, although fine fizz continues to flow from this pioneering producer. The “Gloria” nonvintage brut, blanc de noirs and brut rosé are relatively easy to find (and good values at around $22). But head to the tasting room for the more complex, aged Royal Cuvée Brut Late Disgorged Carneros, Anniversary Cuvée and Carneros Cuvée Late Disgorged Brut, Gloria Ferrer’s top-end wines. The Classic Carneros Experience ($34-$45) features four wines, which can also include still chardonnay and pinot noir. Or splurge on the Culinary Wine Pairing ($68-$85) – a multi-course food and wine matching meal available Friday through Sunday.
23555 Highway 121, Sonoma, 707-933-1917, gloriaferrer.com
Randy Pitts’ family has grown wine grapes in the Russian River Valley since 1976. In 2000, he assumed the farming responsibilities at the 9-acre ranch and began making zinfandel from the ranch. Pitts’ sparkling wine program began in 2003 with gewürztraminer, the lone white grape grown on the estate. Over the next decade, he added small lots of sparkling pinot noir rosé, chardonnay, zinfandel and gewürztraminer. Nearly all the grapes are grown on the estate on Olivet Road, where the tasting room is located. The bubbles are poured on weekends, along with still wines, in six-wine flights ($30).
2198 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-573-8711, harvestmoonwinery.com
The tasting room at this Sebastopol sparkling wine superstar has an east-facing view of its vineyards, the Mayacamas mountain range and Mt. St. Helena. Fog seeps into this Green Valley of Russian River Valley site morning and evening, refreshing the grapes, yet the days can be gloriously sunny for sipping Champagne-quality bubblies and taking in the visuals. As outstanding as the Sterling family’s sparkling wines are – and there are more than a dozen of them, some with charity fundraising ties – tastings ($30) are reasonably priced and outdoors, casual and non-fussy, and staged in front of a redwood barn-style building. Spitting sampled wines down the hill is not only OK, it’s encouraged for those driving, although it’s so very difficult to not swallow these elegant, refined wines. Seated tastings in a gazebo are also offered ($50).
9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com
Judy Jordan and her father, Tom Jordan of Jordan Winery, founded J Wine Co. in 1986 for the express purpose of producing Champagne-style wines. Judy later took over the business and with her then-winemaker, Oded Shakked, vaulted J to the top tier of U.S. sparkling wine houses. E. & J. Gallo purchased J in 2015 and has continued to offer stylish wines and a fine visitor experience, with an emphasis on wine and food pairings. The J Bubble Room’s five-course tasting menu, matched with Nicole Hitchcock’s winery-only and older-vintage wines, is not to be missed ($150). The Legacy Tasting ($35) offers a five-wine, all-sparkler flight, and one of a mix of sparkling and still wines; add cheeses for an extra $15. The standup, Signature Bar Tasting ($25) is an affordable way to start. The Cuvee XB Extra Brut, not available in stores, is arguably J’s most food-friendly sparkler, dry and bracing.
11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 888-594-6326, jwine.com
This is the oldest continually operating sparkling wine house in North America, established in 1882. That history gives Korbel the legal right to use the term “California Champagne” on its labels, even though the wines are not from Champagne, France. They’re produced in Guerneville, from grapes sourced from Sonoma and throughout California. The brut, rosé, blanc de blancs and blanc de noirs sparklers are ubiquitous in supermarkets, yet visits to the winery are still recommended. Not only does the staff pour winery-only reserve bubbles and still wines, the three-wine Market Tasting is complimentary, and the all-bubbles flight is just $15 for five wines. Sip a sense of history at Korbel.
13250 River Road, Guerneville, 707-824-7316, korbel.com
Ned Hill, proprietor of La Prenda Vineyard Management, farms multiple sites within Sonoma Valley. A few years ago, he began producing wines from his clients’ grapes and selling them under the Sonoma Collection and La Prenda labels. In 2021, Ned and his wife, Erika, opened a tasting room in Sonoma, where their Sonoma Coast Brut Rosé, Carneros Pétillant-Naturel and Secco North Coast Brut are poured and sold, along with a wide range of still wines. Five-wine flights are $20.
535 First Street West, Sonoma, 707-938-7228, laprendawine.com
Fizz runs through the veins of Longboard owner and winemaker Oded Shakked. A former sparkling winemaker at J Vineyards & Winery, he founded his own business in 1998. While syrah, malbec, pinot noir, rosé and sauvignon blanc are foundation wines at Longboard, Shakked’s love of bubbles is evident in his Healdsburg tasting room (the Surf Lounge). There, methode traditionnelle brut, brut rosé and a scintillating Brut Z are likely to be poured for those seeking sensational sparklers. Tastings are just $20, and the fee is refundable when two or more bottles are purchased. Cheese and charcuterie items are available for purchase. The tasting room will be closed Dec. 24-Jan. 6 for vacation and renovation.
5 Fitch Street, Healdsburg, 707-433-3473, longboardvineyards.com
Winter in Sonoma County may be mild relatively speaking but there are days and — especially — nights when Jack Frost’s nipping and all you want to do is snuggle up by a crackling fireplace with a hot drink and a warm, comforting meal.
Thankfully, there are plenty of restaurants here that serve up great food with a side of cozy winter vibes, offering respite from the chilly world outside. Some have fireplaces and those that don’t make up for it with a warm, welcoming environment, candle-light ambiance, comfy furnishings and comfort food that warm the spirit.
If you’d like to dine outdoors, many restaurants have heat lamps and blankets to keep you warm; some, like Wit & Wisdom in Sonoma, Hopmonk Tavern in Sebastopol and Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma, even have fire pits.
Here are a few of our favorite cozy restaurants and cafes for cold winter days in Sonoma County. (Click through the above gallery for photos of the restaurants.)
Stepping into Catelli’s restaurant in Geyserville is like being transported to a rustic villa in the Italian countryside. There are elegant touches, like the black and white marble adorning the back patio and bathrooms, but the cushioned chairs and finished wood features in the dining room lends the restaurant a casual, cozy atmosphere. A large cobblestone fireplace adds extra warmth to the indoor space, while heaters and covered cabanas on the patio keep alfresco diners toasty and dry. This is a nice place for a romantic dinner or a gathering of family and friends, with authentic Italian cuisine (order the lasagna), a long list of excellent local wines and the kind of hometown hospitality that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy.
21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3471, mycatellis.com
This trendy restaurant on Fourth Street is more than just a cozy place to eat. Located in what looks like a residential house, the restaurant is divided into different rooms. The decor is sleek with plush taupe and leather dining chairs and light cream colored walls, but the atmosphere is home-like; reminiscent of a London gastropub. Vintage artwork, contemporary light fixtures and a tiled fireplace add to the sophisticated yet laidback vibe. The menu is an unlikely mix of Jewish comfort foods, Southern classics and Korean fare and the dishes, most of them shareable, are artfully executed. Order the Warm Pretzel Bread topped with everything bagel spice and a side of creamy whipped labneh — the warm, pillowy bread with a flavorful, golden and crunchy crust pairs well with cold winter nights.
1055 4th St., Santa Rosa, 707-568-4000, birdandthebottle.com
If you find yourself reminiscing about childhood winter days spent drinking hot cocoa and playing boardgames with friends, then Brew is the place to recreate those moments. This welcoming cafe has hot cocoa made with TCHO chocolate, high quality teas by the pot and seasonal selections of Ritual Coffee Roasters fresh coffee that can be paired with pastries from Village Bakery — muffins, scones, chocolate chip cookies and more. For breakfast and lunch, there’s avocado toast, burritos, wraps, sandwiches, macro bowls and other wholesome dishes made with locally-sourced ingredients. Come for the Ginger Cardamom Latte and belly-warming Baked Oatmeal; stay for the homey feel and riveting rounds of Yahtzee. And, because you’re now a grownup, you can also order a beer.
555 Healdsburg Ave. Santa Rosa, 707-303-7372, brewcoffeeandbeer.com
Located in Santa Rosa’s Historic Railroad Square, Stark’s Steak & Seafood restaurant does cozy old-school style. Slide into a leather seat, order a dry martini and dine on high-quality beef and sustainable seafood in a dining room that makes you feel like you’re in an episode of Mad Men. A brick-ensconced fireplace adds to the ambiance. This is a popular spot for happy hour Monday to Friday (3-6 p.m.) with well-crafted classic cocktails and top-notch bites like tuna tartar taco, prime rib banh mi, potato skin fondue, BBQ oysters and truffle fries.
521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkrestaurants.com
Romantic dim lighting, chicken roasting over an open fire and an invitingly warm atmosphere — owners Mark and Terri Stark hit the cozy mark again with this Montgomery Village gem. Enjoy a gourmet meal inside under dreamy bulbous lights, or dine outside on the spacious patio beneath toasty heat lamps — lap blankets and seat cushions provide extra warmth on particularly cold nights. The Mediterranean menu includes wholesome and comforting dishes like Smoked Salmon Rillettes with dill crème fraiche and Grilled Lamb Burger with feta cheese and cucumber tzatziki; it’s the kind of food that works well on a winter day whether you’re in southern Europe or in Wine Country.
714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 707-568-4404, starkrestaurants.com
This hidden gem in downtown Santa Rosa — an authentic tea room fit for a queen — transports you to the British Isles with vintage and antique decor, delicate tea sets and servers dressed to the nines in traditional English garb. You’ll feel like a royal — and very cozy and snug — as you sip on a spot of tea and nibble on crumpets in the Victorian couch near the fireplace. All high tea selections include an endless pot of tea, from the traditional (Earl Grey, English Breakfast) to the more extravagant (like the James Bon tea with chocolate chips and coconut flakes), and come with treats like tea sandwiches and scones and more substantial comfort dishes like chicken pot pie. You’ll be so immersed in all things British you might just walk away speaking the Queen’s English.
733 4th St., Santa Rosa, 707-535-2045, tudorrosetearoom.com
Situated in Sonoma’s boutique El Dorado Hotel on the downtown plaza, this restaurant serves up seasonal, farm-to-table cuisine in upscale yet relaxed surroundings. The main dining room is elegant and Wine Country-chic, but the private fireplace lounge is where you’ll want to go for group brunches and intimate gatherings. The refined decor, cozy atmosphere and accommodating service make this a great place for creative cocktails by the fire, such as the Jalapeño Business with chest-warming jalapeño tequila, orange liqueur and lime. Before or after your meal, take a stroll on the Sonoma plaza, which offers holiday cheer in December with festive lights and gift shopping.
405 First St. West, Sonoma, 996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com
This classic Sonoma restaurant has the feeling of a French country townhouse and serves bistro fare with a California twist in a quaint and homey dining room. There are vintage touches throughout: An antique bar greets customers by the entrance; retro light fixtures and colorful artwork decorate the walls. Sink down into a cushioned seat indoors and order Chef Jeremy Zimmerman’s three-course plats du jour (the menu changes every Thursday) with a wine flight (the menu focuses on Rhone-style wines); or dine outdoors under cozy string lights on the secluded patio.
110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com
The aroma of pizza and garlic bread wafts from the kitchen, through corridors and greets customers in the stairwell leading up to Old Chicago, located on the second floor in one of downtown Petaluma’s historic brick buildings. But this pizza spot doesn’t just rely on delicious, cheesy deep dish pies in their quest to keep customers satisfied, they take things up a notch with nice decor, romantic lighting and a cozy atmosphere. Candles and chandeliers illuminate the dining area, old black-and-white photos adorn the brick walls and the pizza ovens keep the restaurant pleasantly warm.
41 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-763-3897, oldchgo.com
The industrial look of this coffee and tea house adds to its simple, rustic charm. A large, red coffee grinding machine takes center stage and consistently churns fresh beans, filling the room with an invigorating coffee aroma. The walls are lined with shelves stacked with loose leaf tea packages and burlap sacks with coffee beans; one wall is designated for comfy couches where you can sit down, sip and relax, read a good book, or listen to the resident piano man playing jaunty tunes. Whether you need a Macchiato pick-me-up, a well-spiced Chai Latte or beans and leaves by the pound, Petaluma Coffee & Tea has you covered with a cozy experience.
212 2nd St., Petaluma, 707-763-2727, petalumacoffee.com
Refined yet casual, spacious but also intimate, lively while comfortable — famed restaurateur Jan Rosen’s 256 North does cozy dining in style. There’s a grand piano by the entrance and modern lights illuminate the space. The lounge area couch, bar stools and dining chairs are upholstered in cushiony leather, and brick alcoves offer tucked away spaces for groups or couples. Up to coziness factor by ordering a slice of Rosen’s famous cheesecake, like Frank Sinatra liked to do.
256 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-766-0799, 256north.com
Serving breakfast and lunch all day, with all the coffee you can consume, of course, this community-minded cafe is equal parts fun and relaxed. From its small batch coffee roasting and locally sourced ingredients to the abstract artwork on the walls and numerous plants dotted around the sunlit cafe, Retrograde provides a friendly, calm environment to lounge or work in (hint: free Wi-Fi). Sip on a house-made Turmeric Latte and nosh on a flavorful breakfast sandwich made to your liking at this wholesome shop in downtown Sebastopol.
130 S. Main St., Suite 103, Sebastopol, 707-827-8065, retrograderoasters.com
At the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville, guests can stay in cottage rooms equipped with all the Wine Country charm you could fit into a weekend. The inn’s Michelin-starred, white-tablecloth restaurant is housed in a restored farmhouse. It is upscale but cozy and serves Cal-French cuisine in a sophisticated dining room that also manages to feel unpretentious. A marble-ensconced fireplace and an extensive wine list will make you feel warm both on the outside and inside. Order the decadent chocolate soufflé for dessert and you’ll be set for the night.
7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com/restaurant
The Farmhand’s deli and market is a great place for picking up provisions for a hike or a cabin retreat in the woods. It is stocked with locally sourced goods and has a welcoming, laidback atmosphere. Stay for a while, relax and enjoy a piping hot latte, buttermilk waffles or a gourmet panini; there are seats on a cushioned couch by the modern fireplace, at wooden tables in the enclosed rustic veranda or outside on the deck overlooking the Russian River.
15025 River Road, Guerneville, 707-604-7795, thefarmhand.net
Another cozy spot by the Russian River, Northwood Restaurant serves comfort food in an unpretentious, rustic environment with views of the surrounding golf course dotted with redwood trees. A round, brick fireplace sits in the center of the sizable dining room, keeping patrons warm and snug, and the skylights in the tall, vaulted ceiling provide plenty of natural light. This is a locals’ favorite for hearty American home-cooked meals and drinks around the fire.
19400 Hwy 116, Monte Rio, 707-865-2454, northwoodbistro.com
Order a clam chowder and snuggle up by the large stone fireplace or belly up to the 300-year-old elm tree wooden bar at this coastal gem at the Bodega Bay Lodge. Or dine outside and take in bay views by the fire pits at Drakes Fireside Lounge. For the ultimate cozy coastal getaway, check in at the lodge and order a Dungeness Crab Benedict (when available) for breakfast and enjoy it on your balcony or patio and then soak in the hot tub, also with bay views.
103 Coast Hwy 1, Bodega Bay, 707-917-0567, drakesbodegabay.com
Are you someone who eagerly awaits fall and winter for the spicy, sweet, fragrant, warm holiday drinks that arrive on menus at local restaurants and coffee shops?
To answer your craving for a delicious pumpkin spice latte or other warm and sweet holiday drinks, I set out to find the best sippers in Sonoma County.
I visited eight coffee shops across the county to sample each shop’s most popular or beloved holiday drink and bring you my findings. To be sure, it’s no scientific survey, but a good holiday drink is about more than the ingredients — ambiance and latte art get points, too.
Now for the holiday drink smackdown results:
Plank Coffee, Pumpkin Spice latte, rating: 10/10
Imagine all the best fall flavors in one cup. This latte is lightly sweet with a dash of invigorating spice. It includes organic pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, espresso and milk. 175 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. $5-$8. For more information: bit.ly/2ZjT3CC
Cotati Coffee Company, Brown Butter Bourbon Caramel latte, rating: 9/10
Take a sip of this buttery caramel goodness. It includes brown butter and bourbon caramel syrup, espresso and milk. Get it served in a unicorn cup! 8225 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati. $4.75-$5.75. For more information: bit.ly/3oV12yR
Brew Coffee and Beer House, Pumpkin Spice latte, rating: 8/10
This fall classic has actual pumpkin in it. Yes, you read that right. It includes real pumpkin puree, espresso, milk and nutmeg on top. The spacious tented patio is a pleasant place to sip on sunny, or even cloudy, days. 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa. $4.25-$6.25. For more information: bit.ly/32vVqUe
Crooks Coffee, Pumpkin Pie Chai latte, rating: 8/10
Spicy chai and pumpkin pie? Talk about heaven. The drink includes spicy chai, pumpkin pie syrup, espresso, milk and a sprinkling of cinnamon on top. Check out their take-a-book-leave-a-book library, shelves full of games and local art on the walls. 404c Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. $4.50-$5.25. For more information: bit.ly/3r5Uy2M
Taylor Lane, Peppermint Mocha latte, rating: 7.5/10
This latte is the sweetest of the bunch. This holiday classic includes in-house organic peppermint syrup, Tcho dark chocolate, espresso and milk. Enjoy your warm cup on the second floor or outside the shop. 6790 McKinley St., Sebastopol. $5.50-$6.50. For more information: bit.ly/2ZqbAgM
Honey Badger Coffee House, Tuxedo Peppermint latte, rating: 7/10
Take a bite into peppermint bark as you sip on this tuxedo latte. It includes dark and white chocolate, vanilla and peppermint and is garnished with whipped cream and homemade peppermint bark. Say hello to the owner’s dogs, Chaz and Lady, when you visit. 101 Golf Course Drive A-3, Rohnert Park. $4.25-$5.10. For more information: bit.ly/3FNU05Y
Retrograde Coffee, Minty Mocha latte, rating: 6.5/10
If you’re a mint lover, this one is for you. Lightly sweet, but heavy on the mint. It includes organic cane sugar, mint extract, Tcho dark chocolate, espresso and milk. Explore the vibrant local art inside this quaint shop, too. 130 S. Main St., No. 103, Sebastopol. $5.50-$8. For more information visit: bit.ly/3r36LFv
Avid Coffee, Peppermint Mocha latte, rating: 6/10
Avid’s peppermint mocha includes peppermint syrup, homemade dark chocolate, espresso and milk and is topped with something you’ll only see at the holidays — candy-cane sprinkles. 21 Fourth St., Petaluma. $5-$6. For more information: bit.ly/3p0wNXc
Damian Zuniga has worked in restaurants since he was 15 — many of them owned by the Diaz family, successful Sonoma County restaurateurs who own Agave, El Gallo Negro, El Faralito and a bottled mole company, among their many entrepreneurial ventures.
Now 32, with three food businesses to his name, Zuniga is hoping to replicate the success of the Diazes with a food empire of his own. He’s part of a new generation of local immigrants who are launching off the shoulders of those who came before them, the immigrant business owners who gave them a start.
“I want to be like them,” said Zuniga, who hails from Guanajuato, Mexico.
Part of that dream of success includes the serious efforts of his extended family, who work in his two Lucha Sabina food trucks and a new restaurant, Pezcow in Windsor.
With Pezcow, the former location of Tu Mole Madre (owned by brothers Octavio and Pedro Diaz) has been transformed into a bustling commissary kitchen for Zuniga’s mobile kitchens and an impressive restaurant featuring brilliantly executed dishes that make use of the wood-fired oven and the culinary skills of Zuniga’s brother, Luis Zuniga.
The name, Pezcow, Luis explained through a translator, means hillside and sea. It plays off the flavors of local seafood and from local ranches, but with a Latin bent. The whimsical logo — a mermaid-cow blowing a conch — is a visual cue to what Zuniga calls surf-and-turf, or “fresh catch.”
Whatever the exact meaning, there is plenty to explore on the menu, from a ruby-red glass of Campechana ($18) filled with octopus and shrimp ceviche in a quaffable lime-orange tomato juice to Pollo al Horno Con Mole ($22) with a homemade mole negro I’d put up against any other (including the Diaz brothers’ — sorry, not sorry).
The well-appointed dining room, mostly left from Tu Mole Madre, is comfortable with long wooden tables, large hammered-bronze light fixtures that cast a warm yellow glow and an open kitchen with handmade tiles from Oaxaca. (Tu Mole Madre had been sporadically open and closed before the pandemic, but closed in 2020.) Don’t be put off by the strip-mall location. Nearby are Castaneda’s (a Latin grocer with many tasty imported products) and, across the parking lot, El Gallo Negro (for great margaritas).
Prices for entrees at Pezcow range from $20 to $45 for a whole fried fish and other seafood (enough for at least four people). Pizzas and appetizers are $8 to $19.
Overall: These are well-crafted dishes that elevate the flavors of Mexico well beyond simple taqueria fare. The seafood is outstanding, but don’t ignore the chicken mole and other land-based entrees.
Queso Fundido, $12: This dish is best right out of the wood-fired oven, with bubbling melted quesillo cheese and homemade chorizo. It’s truly the chorizo you’ll die for, made with freshly ground pork and a mix of warm adobo spices known only to Chef Luis. It will make a chorizo-lover out of you, because you’ll be hard-pressed to find any better.
Pollo Al Horno Con Mole, $22: A large half-chicken cooked in the wood-fired oven, then slathered with mole negro. It’s hard to capture the magic of mole, but this version has a gentle sweetness, warm baking spices and smoky chiles that meld so harmoniously you’ll be humming a happy tune while you lick the plate.
Molcajete Mariscos, $25: First things first — A molcajete (the volcanic stone bowl and the name of the dish inside it) should never, and I mean never, be anything less than sizzling hot. That’s part of the magic of this stew of shrimp, clams, scallops, octopus and crab legs (with nopales and fried cheese). I look at it as a distant cousin of fondue, mostly because it’s best shared with friends as they dip forks and spoons into the deep bowl and don’t get too worked up if someone sticks their fingers in to fish out a rogue scallop or two.
Campechana, $18: A glass chalice fit for royalty holds piles of octopus and shrimp ceviche swimming in citrus and tomato juices. Chiles add a savory, earthy quality, but little heat. Required.
Pizza Al Pastor, $18: Spit-grilled al pastor is legit (and frankly I’d be glad to eat it plain), tossed over a wood-fired pizza crust and laden with cheese, pineapple, onion and salsa de aguacate. It’s kind of like a Hawaiian pizza, but so darn much better.
Beer and wine are available, along with agua fresca.
8465 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. 707-393, 8370. bit.ly/31k9I9X.
Nine years is a pretty long time to wait for your first harvest, but not if you’re a truffle grower in Sonoma County.
Last Wednesday, after pacing through his family’s Geyserville hazelnut orchards with Leo the truffle dog, Seth Angerer finally found a truffle — specifically, a 5.03-ounce Sonoma County black melanosporum.
It’s the first cultivated truffle found in Alexander Valley, according to Angerer’s father and collaborator, Fran Angerer. The family seek out the rare and valuable culinary fungus with their truffle-hunting Lagotto Romagnolo dogs, a specialized breed with a keen sense of smell and a curly-haired face so cute it’s painful.
“We’ve been waiting nine years and eight months, and we haven’t found anything. Every year we get more and more discouraged,” said Fran Angerer, who previously worked with Jackson Family Wines on their truffle properties in Sonoma County.
Sonoma County’s first cultivated black truffles (a species called Périgord truffles) were harvested in 2017 by the Jackson Family Wines team after inoculating hazelnut and oak trees in 2011. (Farmers grow truffles by inoculating the roots of saplings with truffle spores. Years later, they harvest the truffles, hopefully.)
The truffle hunting season typically runs from January to March, so an early truffle in November was a particularly exciting find for the Angerers. The fact that black truffles can command up to $95 per ounce is just as exciting.
Upon finding the esteemed fungi, Seth Angerer posted a Facebook video in which he pointed at the still-earthbound truffle with a spade. “It’s a big deal for us,” he said in the video. “We’re waiting for the whole family to show up so we can all (dig it up) together and take it in.”
“You just don’t dig it up,” Fran said by phone. “Seth called me and was shaking. I called my wife and we all hopped in the car.”
Fran’s other son, Nathan, also chimed in. “The feeling is just unbelievable after all this time. We were all crying and laughing and the dogs were going crazy,” he said.
To mark the occasion, the family took the prized truffle to Valette restaurant in Healdsburg, where Chef Dustin Valette prepared a seven-course meal with their truffle as the star of the show.
“It was awesome. We had quite a celebration,” Fran said.
Truffle growing is a long game, typically marked by frustration and disappointment. In the 1970s Henry Trione sparked truffle fever in Sonoma County when he staged the first California Truffle Congress in Santa Rosa with hopes that the oaks in Northern California could be hiding the same delicious fungi as their cousins in France and Italy. And while truffles were found, they weren’t high-quality, or even edible, quashing early enthusiasm. Trione’s passion did, however, spark an ongoing interest in truffle growing here.
That enthusiasm spawned the decade-long dream of growing truffles for the Angerers, who own Angerer Family Farm and Alexander Valley Truffle Co. They’ve have gone at it alone, investing in several hazelnut orchards that are inoculated with the Tuber melanosporum, a prized strain of truffles from Burgundy. They’re also experimenting with white Italian truffles that Fran hopes will come to fruition soon.
“It’s a huge investment to maintain with no product for nine or 10 years,” Fran said. “Every truffle grower goes through a time when you start asking yourself if you’re crazy. You start having a bad attitude going into the hunt, but then all of the sudden, there it is. That’s the truffle experience.”
Sonoma County hotels are helping guests and visitors get into the festive spirit with special events, treats and holiday decor. Click through the above gallery for details.
“It’s magical to wake up here,” says Gretchen Krebs, relaxing on a tranquil morning with her husband Ian Read on their outdoor deck overlooking acres of dense oak woodlands. It’s the view a hawk might see, descending the steep hillside to scan the valley floor. In the distance, an antiquated water tower rises above Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa. Beyond it, the sun sets every evening behind Sonoma Mountain. (That’s when the coyotes start to howl.) But for now, the only sound is the low chatter of songbirds. “Being upstairs, our bedroom window looks out onto the landscape. The house is very thoughtful in that way, facing out toward the land.”
Last August, Krebs and Read, founders of the Oakland architecture and design firm Medium Plenty, took a huge leap of faith, moving with their 8-year-old daughter, Mica, to Sonoma after living for 16 years in downtown Oakland, where they had renovated a picturesque Victorian.
“If you can picture the house in the Pixar film ‘Up,” that was us,” jokes Krebs. As condos and office buildings went up all around them, they tried to coexist with the constant beeping of trucks, waking up each morning to workers peering down from scaffolding. But when the pandemic hit, they felt it was time to go.
“We told ourselves, if we’re going to uproot our lives and put ourselves through all this, we’d better land in a cool spot,” says Read.
They soon stumbled on the white tri-level rental home perched on a shoulder high in the Mayacamas, just outside the town of Sonoma. Their shady neighborhood winds up through the foothills overlooking Montini Open Space Preserve, meandering woods to the west and vineyards to the north. Likely built in the ‘80s, with Scandinavian farmhouse ideals in mind, the rental might be a little dated, to the point that the wide-tiled kitchen counters are actually coming back in style. But the home is their foothold in a new community, where more than a year later, the daily grind of city life (and repeated car break-ins) has totally washed away.
For Krebs, who grew up in Bonny Doon outside Santa Cruz, and Read, who was born in the Pennsylvania town of Stroudsburg in the Poconos – it’s a return to small-town life. “It’s kind of the antithesis of what we were in before,” says Krebs. “We were in a fishbowl in a city with not a lot of breathing room. And then to come here and to have this endless expanse of land, it felt really calming and it felt like the right place for us.”
Almost sprawling compared to the tall, narrow confines of their urban Victorian, the family’s new house expands in all directions, which means they spend a lot of time playing and dancing in the great room, which is filled with natural light. This is also where they set up camp for movie nights, which they project on the wall across from the fireplace.
It didn’t take long for Mica to find what she calls her “secret room,” a hidden space tucked beneath the lower staircase on the bottom floor (picture where Harry Potter lives with the Dursleys). And a few weeks after they moved in, Read also discovered an unfinished basement space off the lower deck. He’s converted it into his shop, where he works with Mica on new DIY projects – a toy boat that floats, a stage for her stuffed animals and a refurbished outdoor table. The backyard has enough terraced space for a trampoline, a small garden, and plenty of room to roam for Nori, their ever-curious 4-year-old beagle mix.
Only a couple of weeks after moving in, the family was invited to a sing-along as neighbors joined together to belt out classics like “Stand by Me” on the hilltop just up the road. It’s a community tradition going back years, held on the last Thursday of each month. As the holidays approach, the trees lose their leaves, and heat lamps warm the back deck, one of the neighbors will resurrect an annual high-wattage Christmas wonderland – a beacon for miles around, decked out with animatronics synched to a seasonal soundtrack.
Last year, on Christmas morning, Mica awoke to a scavenger hunt as the family wondered around the property to find a new swing hanging from an oak tree, a custom fairy house Read built from foraged branches, rocks, and acorns, and a new telescope to explore a night sky far brighter than anything they gazed upon in downtown Oakland.
In many ways, their journey, part of a larger migration of urban dwellers escaping to rural hamlets during the pandemic, recalls the allure of the back-to-the-land movement of the ‘60s. They might not be hippies – although Krebs and Read were both raised by hippie parents. But like many families who ditched gridlocked cities, they’re drawn by a similar appreciation of nature and land, while reprioritizing family over work, exercise over multi-tasking, and quality time over commuting.
Before, Mica would often stay in Oakland after-school care until 6 p.m. Now, mostly working from home, Krebs and Read try to wrap up their work-days by 3 p.m. so they can pick her up from school and go on an afternoon adventure, whether it’s a trip to get ice cream or embarking upon a new art project. Krebs walks at least an hour a day, exploring new neighborhoods, and Read rides his bicycle in the surrounding hills. Dinners are out on the deck whenever possible, where Read likes to fire up the grill, only steps from the kitchen, for spatchcock chicken with grilled onions, peppers and zucchini – all served on one platter for everyone to share.
Some days, it feels like their biggest worries are how to win the ongoing war with ground squirrels invading the garden, what to do with five gallons of olives they harvested from trees below their deck or what to mix for “mandatory cocktail hour” that kicks off the back-deck sunset party nearly every day.
The more balanced daily routine fits perfectly with the Medium Plenty ethos, focusing on a holistic design process where the interiors and architecture blend and resonate together. Over the years, they’ve redesigned an industrial warehouse to create a modular, moveable, multi-functional space for a philanthropic incubator. They’ve done residential add-ons and renovations as far flung as Pasadena, Boulder, and Seattle. After recently restoring the Thatcher Hotel in Hopland, the couple took on a reimagining of the tasting room at Merriam Vineyards in Healdsburg.
Happy in their rental, but looking for a place of their own, Krebs and Read hope to stay in Sonoma if possible. They still make the occasional trek to the office in Oakland, but every time they drive home, there’s a feeling that returns—a simple reminder that they made the right decision to flee the city for the country, Krebs says. “As soon as you turn onto Highway 12, you can feel the decompressing.”
Imagination is everywhere in the Sonoma home of designers Ian Read and Gretchen Krebs. Sculptures and vibrant paintings hang from walls all over the house, many made by artists with developmental disabilities enrolled at the Creative Growth arts center across the street from the family’s former home in Oakland. On the lower deck, there’s a fairy house that Ian made from foraged branches Read found around the property. And upstairs, the family carved out a narrow space between the stairs and a bedroom to create Mica’s art studio. Sometimes they disappear into Read’s repurposed shop to see if they can build a tiny boat or remodel a fairy house. Above the shop counter, pinned to 2x4s, are ongoing project plans that Mica has drawn for reference. At 8, “she can use the drill and the jig saw,” says Ian. “I don’t have her on the chop saw yet, but she’s getting the hang of it.” For the holidays and beyond, here are a few tips Gretchen Krebs offers to foster creativity.
Make space
A regular, intentional space to work on your art is so important. It can be just a table in the corner of a room, but make it a space that you can call your own.
Keep supplies in the open
The risk with putting things away is that they don’t get used as often. For Mica, we have bins of Legos and yarn and fabric she sews with. She likes to use her old clothes that get holes in them to make outfits for her stuffies. And we keep a cart on wheels loaded with pens, pencils, markers, all kinds of stuff.
Welcome some mess
I think it’s important not to keep the house too tidy. When we ask Mica to pick up her things, she keeps a few projects out that she has in the works, just to let her have them out in the open. That’s the fun, right? The mess! We call it contained chaos.
Olive oil is never better, never more compelling, than it is at the moment it first streams into the world, straight from the press. It is the purest expression of the olive, an elixir that delights with field-fresh flavors and a texture best described as both lean and rich.
This is olio nuovo, the new oil.
Olio nuovo is a treasure of early winter in Sonoma. It cannot be separated from its season and cannot be preserved, as its bold flavors begin to fade not long after pressing. The decline is subtle at first, but within a month or two, the new oil loses its unique spark and begins to mellow. By early spring, it will be a memory until the next vintage.
“When olive oil comes out of the funnel during pressing, there is always a feeling of renewal and exuberance. The vibrant green and gold hues, the fresh aromas, and the healthy vegetative and fruity flavors are intoxicating, full of the strength and health of the trees, only an hour removed,” says Brooke Hazen, who oversees 70 acres of olive trees at his Gold Ridge Organic Farms in the rolling hills southeast of Sebastopol.
Typically, quality olive oil rests in bulk for a few months after being pressed, a process that allows it to settle and become shelf-stable. Olio nuovo, in contrast, is bottled and released straight from the press, skipping the step during which the oil rests, allowing fresh, peppery, straight-from-the-tree flavors to shine. Until quite recently, only a handful of local growers, including Healdsburg’s DaVero and Petaluma’s McEvoy Ranch, celebrated a separate release of the new oil before the more widely available extra virgin olive oil came to market.
Sonoma County’s olive harvest begins around the time the grape harvest concludes, typically in late October or early November, and continues for several weeks. By the winter holidays, prized bottles of olio nuovo are available locally, many of them from small-scale, family-owned farms and olive mills. These days, there’s recognition that Sonoma County-grown olio nuovo holds its own alongside prized oils from Tuscany such as Ardoino, a favorite of olive oil pioneer Ridgely Evers at DaVero, and Poggio Lamentano, the favorite of renowned food writer M. F. K. Fisher.
“There is al ways a feeling of renewal and exuberance. The vibrant green and gold hues, the fresh aromas…full of the strength and health of the trees, only an hour removed.” ~ Brooke Hazen
Producer Stephen Singer of Baker Lane Vineyards likens olio nuovo to the elusive white truffle, another early-winter treasure. “The early vivid expression of olive oil doesn’t last long, nor does the flavor of the truffle,” he says. “Both are transitory, deeply seasonal, momentary, and ephemeral.” Singer, the former wine director at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, used to be in the business of importing premium olive oil from Tuscany. Now, settled in the hills outside Sebastopol, he makes wine and produces estate olive oil.
Growers say that to understand olio nuovo, it is essential to understand olive oil itself. The characteristic flavors of an olive’s oil are determined almost entirely by which type of olive tree the olive grows upon (over 2,000 types of trees exist). The trees must be properly tended and pruned, and farmers must choose the right moment to pick. The olives must be harvested gently, without stems and leaves, then transported as quickly as possible to the mill, before they begin to ferment. It is the job of the miller to press the oil out of the olive as gently as possible. Nearly all premium oils are made with olives processed and pressed within 24 hours of being harvested.
The best olive oils are made with a mix of green fruit and ripe fruit. Green fruit has the bitterness and peppery qualities considered essential; when olives ripen to purple-black, as they all eventually do, their oil takes on more buttery characteristics. The mix of both green and purple olives at different stages of ripeness creates the complexity of flavor that makes olive oil lovers wax poetic.
Six local mills serve the olive growers of Sonoma County. Recently, these mills have also become home to a new seasonal tradition: the community milling day. At one of these events, typically held in November or early December, anyone with an olive tree or two can be part of the magic of olio nuovo. Small-scale growers and backyard hobbyists bring their freshly-picked fruit—in buckets, bags, and bins—to the mill on the day of the press. After checking the olives for pests and for ripeness, the miller adds the fruit to the press to become part of a community blend. This is grassroots local food production at its best: Each grower gets back containers of the fresh-pressed oil in proportion to what they contributed. The more olives you bring, the more oil you receive.
Standing in the orchard, watching as olives are gently tugged from their slender stems, it all comes full circle—the care put into tending the trees, the flurry of harvest day, the quick rush to the press. After an hour or two of picking, you can smell on your hands the subtle aroma of the olive and the oil within— all peppery and grassy, the sunlight and rain together. “Olive oil is priceless,” says Ridgely Evers. “And it is sacred.”
There are nearly a dozen commercial olio nuovo producers in Sonoma County, plus hundreds of backyard growers who either do a custom milling for oil to share with friends and neighbors, or who bring their olives to community milling events.
Baker Lane Vineyards: Stephen Singer’s 2021 Occidental Blend is not labeled “olio nuovo,” but is available soon enough after pressing that it is a de facto nuovo, with vivid flavors of artichoke, new mown hay, and green apple. Online sales only. bakerlanevineyards.com
DaVero Farms & Winery: The benchmark estate olio nuovo is sassy and elegant, with complex bitter and pepper flavors—the signature liquid nirvana. It is available by appointment at the tasting room and online, from Thanksgiving through the end of the year. 766 Westside Rd., Healdsburg. 707431-8000, davero.com
Dry Creek Olive Company: A blend of olives from 100-year-old trees and newly-planted cultivars goes into a bright, herbaceous olio nuovo, available shortly after pressing and prior to the release of estate’s signature flavored olive oils. 7878 Dry Creek Rd., Geyserville. 707-431-7200, trattorefarms.com
Eyrie Olive Oil: This delicious Tuscan-style olio nuovo is available on Saturdays at the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., and at Lazzini’s Market, 3449 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa. Email suzanne@eyrieoliveoil.com for information.
Figone Olive Oil Company: The group releases an olio nuovo blend of Spanish and Italian varieties. 483 First St. West, Sonoma. 707-282-9092, figoneoliveoil.com
Gold Ridge Organic Farms: Brooke Hazen offers four olio nuovos, each made from a different variety of olive, including Picholine, Minerva, Tuscan, and Arbequina. The varieties ripen in succession, not simultaneously, and all are picked a bit later in the season, producing oils with a voluptuous buttery texture. The olio nuovos are released in late December and available through February. 3387 Canfield Rd., Sebastopol. 707-8233110, goldridgeorganicfarms.com
McEvoy Ranch: This olio nuovo evokes the subtle flavors of winter greens – think cardoons, chicories, and dandelions – with a trail of peppery heat, a signature quality of the estate’s seven Tuscan cultivars. Available at the ranch store and online. 5935 Red Hill Rd., Petaluma. 707-7782307, mcevoyranch.com
Monte-Bellaria di California: Proprietor Bill MacElroy typically harvests his olives on the last Sunday of October. His olive oil is available within about 24 hours of pressing, and though it is not labeled as olio nuovo, that’s what it is. 3518 Bloomfield Rd., Sebastopol. 707829-2645, monte-bellaria.com
Olivino: Their olio nuovo is a blend of five Tuscan cultivars from a 2,500-tree orchard that straddles the border of Sonoma and Mendocino counties. It shows classic flavors of fresh grass, fruit, nuts, and pepper. It is released near Christmas and available until Easter. 14160 Mountain Home Rd., Hopland. 707744-1114, olivino.com
Preston Farm & Winery: Chaste Maiden Early Release Organic Olive Oil is a blend of ten Italian and Spanish cultivars. Even in its youth, it is a delicate oil, with a modicum of the peppery heat that defines many other oils. As it ages, the oil softens even more, and develops buttery characteristics, making it ideal for anyone who balks at “two cough” olive oils, as some people call robust olio nuovos. 9282 West Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg, 707-433-3372, prestonfarmandwinery.com
The Olive Press: Their olio nuovo is made from the Spanish cultivar Arbequina, which has suggestions of newly-mown grass, artichoke, apple, and banana. 24724 Arnold Dr., Sonoma, 800-9654839, theolivepress.com
Community milling days are a special way to participate in the feel and flavors of olive oil production. Some mills require a minimum quantity, while others will take even just a hatful of olives. The mills will generally ask for a specific mix of ripeness in the olives and that participants pick their olives within 24 hours of the event.
They’ll also inspect the olives for signs of damage from the olive fruit fly. For additional information and requirements, please contact each mill directly.
Dry Creek Olive Company, Geyserville: Oct. 31, Nov. 21, Dec. 5. 5 pound minimum, $1 per pound. 707-431-7200, trattorefarms.com
Figone’s Olive Oil Co.: Saturdays and Sundays, Oct. 9-Dec. 12. 5 pound minimum, $1.12 per pound. 707-244-9148, figoneoliveoil.com
McEvoy Ranch, Petaluma: Nov. 14; register by Nov. 10. $1 per pound. 707-778-2307, mcevoyranch.com
Olivino, Hopland: Call for information. 707-744-1114, olivino.com
The Olive Press, Sonoma: Nov. 7 and Nov. 21. 800-965-4839, theolivepress.com
New restaurants, new dishes and favorite spots for the holidays. Click through the above gallery to find out what to order.
Chef Christian Caiazzo didn’t spend 35 years behind the stoves of Michelin-starred restaurants to become a barista, but that’s where the former owner of Point Reyes’ celebrated Osteria Stellina has found himself — slinging cappuccinos and lattes in downtown Petaluma. And he’s OK with that.
Standing behind the espresso machine at his new bakery-café, Stellina Pronto, Caiazzo is back in the game and pumping out orders. After closing their critically acclaimed restaurant in August 2020, citing the pandemic and other pressures, Caiazzo and his wife, Katrina Fried, opened the ever-evolving Italian bakery early this summer. “This is me reinventing myself,” he said recently at the cafe, as he made a perfect foam with extra-rich milk from Straus Family Creamery. It is, admittedly, pretty delightful.
Customers stream regularly through the doors, eager to get their hands on still-warm morning buns, chocolate hazelnut cornettos, olive oil cakes and cookies. There is also warm focaccia, buns filled with pastry cream, and a changing lineup of Italian-inspired sweets and savories. Sandwiches and salads appear later in the day.
There’s no table service, no line cooks. The staff is limited, and the focus is on high-efficiency output to keep costs low. But don’t confuse Stellina Pronto with a massproduction operation—Caiazzo is passionate about Slow Food, high-quality ingredients, and supporting the regional food system.
They buy much of their produce from Green String Farm in Petaluma and local markets.
“The support we’ve received from Petaluma has exceeded our every expectation,” says Fried, as Caiazzo continued filling drink orders from behind the espresso machine. “We’re working our hearts out to keep up with demand, and we’re having a ball.”
Open Thursday through Monday from 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. 23 Kentucky St., Petaluma. 707-789-9556, stellinapronto.com
This takeout only, side-street cantina at the El Dorado Hotel & Kitchen gives executive chef Armando Navarro a casual outlet for approachable, crave-worthy tacos, ceviche, enchiladas, pupusas and burritos. Think high-end flavors and ingredients— duck carnitas, barbacoa short ribs, rock cod ceviche—to eat with your hands in the park across the street.
Best bets include crispy vegetarian taquitos with fresh corn tortillas, potatoes ($9.95), caramelized onions, crema and cotija cheese; crispy fish tacos ($12.95), chicken enchiladas with mole or suiza sauce ($14.95), and chicharron pupusas with pork belly, cheese corn, spinach and black beans ($15.95). Grab a margarita ($12) to wash it all down, and don’t miss caramel-sauced churros ($8) for dessert.
Open daily from noon to 7:30 p.m., 405 First Street West, Sonoma. 707-996-3030, eldoradosonoma.com/cantina
The original Willie Bird’s on Santa Rosa Avenue served up Thanksgiving dinner 52 weeks of the year for nearly 40 years. That restaurant has now closed but, good gravy, The Bird has risen from the ashes at a new location in Rincon Valley that boasts the same gritty authenticity that turkey lovers have come to expect. The tables are wobbly and the banquettes are worn in spots, but the vibe is welcoming.
Expect to go down a tryptophan rabbit hole on your visit. Favorites include a surprisingly addictive turkey dip served with house-made potato chips ($9.50); the Mama Bird sandwich ($16.25), which is like a Thanksgiving dinner with turkey breast, stuffing, and cranberry sauce between two slices of toasted bread; or turkey scaloppini ($23.95), a homey plate of sautéed turkey breast and mushrooms in a Marsala wine sauce with creamy mashed potatoes that’s cozier than a pair of slippers. The turkey pot pie ($17.95) is a hangover miracle or marathon fuel. The Bird has also added pulled pork throughout the week and barbecue on Fridays.
4776 Sonoma Highway, Santa Rosa. 707-542-0861, thebirdrestaurant.com
Sonoma County has struggled to attract high-end, regional Mexican cuisine, which is a tragedy considering the number of talented chefs who have immigrated here from Oaxaca and Jalisco. These coastal western states, renowned for their food, are home to flavorful seafood dishes, a variety of mole and, of course, sizzling molcajete stews, made with a volcanic stone mortar and pestle of the same name.
In other words, there’s a lot more to Mexican cuisine than burritos and street tacos, just like there’s more to American cuisine than burgers and fries. The owners of new Santa Rosa restaurant El Meson de los Molcajetes want to fill the gap by introducing diners to the rich and diverse cuisine of Mexico. The menu, delivered with graceful service, includes thoughtfully-prepared regional dishes such as their signature molcajete and two types of mole, luxurious cocktails and well-sourced ingredients. The restaurant strays a bit with fusion preparations, like chimichurri filet mignon and salmon with tropical pico de gallo, but generally stays close to its Mexican roots.
There are lovely moments of transcendence with dishes like the Jalisco mole rojo ($26) and the grilled octopus with lime-chile salsa ($29). The Mexican fresh ceviche ($18) is a cocktail of raw fish marinated in citrus, nicely balanced with avocado instead of being overpowered by too much heat or acid. The Mexican cinnamon donut ($14) is more of a sweet bread ( pan dulce), with a layer of cajeta (Mexican goat’s milk caramel sauce) slathered in the middle. On weekends, the brunch menu gets rave reviews for its chilaquiles and shrimp tacos.
1950 Piner Road, Santa Rosa. 707843-4716, elmesonmolcajetes.com
It’s Thai food. It’s sushi. It’s both? We’re rarely fans of disparate cuisines trying to be all things to all people, but we’re willing to be a bit flexible in the case of Little Thai & Sushi because it’s a takeout dream for picky families. The food is solid, if not stunning, as long as they put the hot entrees in a different bag than the cold sushi for your takeout. Because no one likes a melted California roll.
Best bets include basil chicken with anise-flavored Thai basil and oyster sauce ($12.95); cashew nut chicken ($12.95); and papaya salad Laos-style ($13.95). Made with a fermented Laotian crab and fish sauce, it’s an intensely stinky, muddy-colored mess with crunchy green papaya, green beans and lime sauce. This version will arm wrestle your taste buds and perfume your refrigerator for weeks.
1791 Marlow Road, Unit 4, Santa Rosa. 707-541-6242
Four long years in the making, Chef Dustin Valette’s epic The Matheson and Roof 106 finally opened in early September. The three-story concept includes the Matheson on the ground floor, a private mezzanine, and Roof 106, a casual bar and café.
The Matheson’s open kitchen serves high-end New American cuisine as well as Japanese-inspired dishes — including nigiri stunners created by Hana Japanese chef Ken Tominaga and executed by sushi chef Daisuke Somato. The Tamanishiki rice porridge ($19), a risottolike starter of black rice, a single perfectly-cooked day boat scallop, and preserved lemon, was the star of the night. Seasonal tomato salad with whipped burrata, lovage, sea beans, and rye “soil” ($15) also was excellent. The tasting menu, always a solid choice at nearby the chef’s nearby Valette restaurant, includes a “best of” with sashimi, tomato salad, king salmon, Sonoma lamb and a dark chocolate pavé for $95. Reservations are recommended.
Upstairs, Roof 106 is first come, first serve, with both lunch and dinner menus. Diners here will find a more casual indoor-outdoor setting, with a cozy bar inside and a mix of sofa-style and chair seating outside under an airy, extended pergola.
Opening dishes include a tasty fried sweet corn with citrus crema ($9); Tominaga’s hand rolls ($4-6); and wood-fired pizzas like the cured pork belly with Gruyère, red onion, and roasted-garlic crème fraîche ($21).
Larger plates of steak, crispy pork belly and a burrata and peach salad round out the menu, along with entertaining frozen “push pops” ($5) of our youth in grown-up flavors like coconut-rum mojito and yuzu-strawberry. Roof 106 also serves up their own list of cocktails, among them the Modern Margarita ($10) with tequila and clarified lime, a molecular-gastronomy take on a classic. Don’t miss the beehive-themed details either, including the hexagon-shaped tiles surrounding the bar.
106 Matheson St., Healdsburg. 707723-1106, thematheson.com
