First of the season sardines with fennel salad. Photo Heather Irwin

First of the season sardines with fennel salad. Photo Heather Irwin

It’s no secret that I’ve been a fan of the North Bay’s Miriam Donaldson and Josh Norwitt since they opened Humble Pie in Penngrove in 2008.

With a collection of mismatched thrift store dishes, blues and jazz crackling on an old record player, and the scent of fresh pies baking in the oven, their restaurants have always felt like coming home to a favorite grandmother’s house. I mean, assuming granny could actually cook. The couple’s newest venture, Wishbone, is no exception.

Embracing the beloved history of their new location, the former Three Cooks Cafe in Petaluma, they’ve done little to change the interior (okay, aside for some serious cleaning and ripping out the old carpet). The kitchen is open, and a cozy bar flanks the front door. You feel instantly welcome.

The food, of course, is what you’re here for. A collection of old favorites, like the Pork Chop of Awe and Wonder–a hefty juniper brined slab of pork with mashed potatoes, and their signature Blue Balls (meatballs stuffed with Pt. Reyes blue cheese atop atop warm tomato sauce and crispy Brussels sprouts. But here, they’ve raised the bar significantly, adding seasonal appetizers like sardines with fennel salad, a sexy little loaf of milk and honey bread with orange butter and the “I’m having a moment” dish, The Ravioli.

Steel yourself, because this giant toasted pasta stuffed with roasted squash, carrot and herbed goat cheese may cause involuntary moans of satisfaction. Topped with fresh chanterelles, sage brown butter and Tuscan kale, it’s almost obscene in its deliciousness. It goes without saying that all of their food is locally-sourced from their own farm and other nearby producers.

The Ravioli at Wishbone in Petaluma. Photo: Heather Irwin/BiteClubEats

The Ravioli at Wishbone in Petaluma. Photo: Heather Irwin/BiteClubEats

Dessert gets serious noms for its selection of fresh baked pies (Miriam is a godess of piemaking) and a yogurt, strawberry whip that we were convinced was creme fraiche with a slice of Heaven mixed in.

Gushing? Probably. But sometimes a meal just hits you in the soft spot. Maybe its the company, the wine (they have a small but tasty collection of local wines) or just the night. Or maybe its the love and care they put into every dish.

Wishbone: Open for lunch and supper Wednesday through Sunday. Brunch from 9am to 2:30pm Saturday and Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 841 Petaluma Blvd., Petaluma. (707) 763-2663.