I’ve had a love/hate relationship with Santa Rosa’s lone cheapo Indian restaurant — Tandoori Express. For well under $10 you can get a whole lot of food — entree, veggie and naan, which makes it a favorite of broke SRJC students. But the steam tables filled with tikka masala, curry chicken and watery daal aren’t consistent enough to make me a regular. Sometimes it’s heaven in a Styrofoam box.

Othertimes…not so much.

What keeps it on my radar, however, is the fresh naan they cook to order. It’s fluffy and piping hot, usually brought out to you right from the kitchen. You can watch them flattening between their palms when you order: thwap, thwap, thwap. They also make some mean kulchas to order, inluding onion and a sweet version with fruit.

For a hole-in-the-wall place, it’s a homemade touch that can’t be beat.

Tandoori Express: 1880 Mendocino Ave # D, Santa Rosa, (707) 543-8168