Forget the foodie hype and Instagram bait. This is about the dishes Santa Rosa can’t quit — the orders that need no menu because we already know them by heart. They’re not always menu superstars (though they can be) and sometimes they’re downright homely. But we love ’em anyway because they’re the familiar comforts we return to again and again. These are our essential orders.
As Sonoma County’s commercial hub, population center and gateway to Wine Country, Santa Rosa is a city built on everyday restaurants for everyday people. Yes, there are white-tablecloth destinations around town, but we mostly leave that to Healdsburg and Sonoma. Instead, these are the plates worth waiting for — despite Sonoma County’s resistance to standing in line for anything — because we love family-run, quirky, down-home spots that (mostly) fit our pocketbooks and reliably fill our bellies.
Is this a comprehensive list? Absolutely not. There are dozens, likely hundreds, of essential orders within the city limits. If I missed one of yours, let me know at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.
Pollo al Horno — El Coqui
You don’t have to be from Puerto Rico for this grandma-style chicken and rice dish to make you homesick. Comfort transcends culture, and these sofrito-infused chicken thighs with seasoned yellow rice, sweet plantains, red beans and a few shakes of vinegar sauce (pique de piña) are soul-satisfying. While it’s not the prettiest dish on the menu, pollo al horno is the restaurant’s signature for a reason. 400 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-542-8868, elcoqui2eat.com
Rib-eye steak — Stark’s Steak and Seafood
If big slabs of red meat offend you, Stark’s is not the place for you. But if you crave a juicy, dry-aged, perfectly marbled piece of beef, possibly bacon-wrapped and served with mustard béarnaise, welcome. The bone-in rib-eye hits the mark every time, with a perfect char and a yielding center. Honor the meat by ordering it medium-rare; anything else is just burnt. You can go back to kale tomorrow. Or order some creamed spinach on the side. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-5100, starkssteakhouse.com
Elotes — Delicias Elenita
Why is there a bright orange taco truck permanently attached to a Mexican restaurant? I don’t know. Don’t ask so many questions. Just get in line — there will be a line — and order the elote. Trust me on this. You should get a few street tacos, too. But it’s the warm, foil-wrapped cob of mayonnaise, lime, chili powder and cotija-covered corn (aka elote, $6) that calls to me at inconvenient hours of the night. Fortunately, they’re open until 1 a.m. weekdays and 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday. 816 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-575-7021
Lasagna — L’Oro di Napoli
Friends will tell you that you must try the hand-tossed Neapolitan pizza at this downtown Santa Rosa trattoria. They’re not wrong, because the pizza is spectacular. But regulars know the mile-high lasagna, with layers of beef Bolognese, creamy béchamel sauce, San Marzano tomato sauce and plenty of Parmesan cheese, is the GOAT (yes, Greatest of All Time). Sitting inside is like spending an evening in Naples, the laundry hanging from the rafters and all, and the lasagna transports you straight to nonna’s kitchen. 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6394, lorodinapolica.com
Reuben — Mac’s Deli
Every downtown worker has a “don’t even need to look at the menu” order at this family-run deli. Mine is the Reuben, with pastrami, sauerkraut and extra Thousand Island dressing on marbled rye. It’s not the most “authentic” or even the best I’ve ever had, but it’s consistently good, like everything at Mac’s. The menu hasn’t changed much over its 60-plus-year history because 18 kinds of omelets, 47 sandwiches (from ham and cheese to beef tongue and smoked liverwurst) and 16 salads cover all the bases. 630 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-3785, macsdeliandcafe.com
The Benedicts — Dierk’s Parkside, Jeffrey’s Hillside, Hank’s Creekside
Dubbed the ‘Sides, these essential breakfast spots are dedicated to the most important meal of the day. Choosing a favorite depends on the vibe you’re after. Dierk’s is the city cousin, with long lines, and the Country Benedict with scrambled eggs, bacon and roasted tomatoes on a baguette. Jeffrey’s is the homey, chef-driven brunch spot with a Champagne hollandaise Benedict and long lines. Hank’s is the casual creekside cafe with long lines for a crab cake Benedict. Locals know it’s all worth the wait. Dierk’s Parkside, 404 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-573-5395, dierksparkside.com. Jeffrey’s Hillside, 2901 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-6317, jeffreyshillsidecafe.com. Hank’s Creekside, 2800 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-575-8839, hanks-creekside.com
Dim Sum — Hang Ah
The fact that it’s in a former A&W — and you can tell — is only part of the charm of this Santa Rosa dim-sum spot. Yes, the lighting is terrible and the decor blander than the hot tea, but you’re here to join the hubbub of regulars and first-timers crowding around the table, passing tiny plates of shui mai, chive dumplings, steamed pork buns and tofu skin (yuba) in broth, chopsticks waving in all directions. Circling orders from a paper menu illustrated with dozens of grainy, slightly mysterious photos is half the fun, and piling up empty dishes is the other. You will inevitably order too much, which means you’re doing it right. 2130 Armory Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-576-7873, hangahdimsum.com
Pepperoni Slice — Mombo’s Pizza
You can argue all you want about what makes the perfect New York-style pie — thin crust, minimalist sauce, the moisture content of cheese — while I eat my giant Mombo’s slice over here in the corner. Pizza doesn’t have to be precious, topped with fancy soft cheeses and rare mushrooms. This is a utility pizza you dip in ranch dressing and slather with hot honey without remorse or stink eye. 1880 Mendocino Ave., Suite B, Santa Rosa, 707-528-3278, mombospizza.com
Pupusas — Pupusería Salvadoreña
The sound of tías pressing soft masa between their palms is the sound of a great pupusa being made. This hidden gem is where fans of homestyle Salvadoran food can be found smiling over a plate of crispy-edged pupusas stuffed with cheese, squash, beans or pork, with a side of tangy, garlicky curtido. 1403 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-544-3141, pupuseriasalvadorea.shop
Cheese Superburger — Superburger
You can smell the beefy smoke wafting from the original Superburger on arrival, alerting your jaw to start unhinging for the meat, pickle, onion, tomato, cheese, special sauce and sesame bun freight train coming at your face. The one-third-pound Black Angus burgers are just good. Every. Single. Time. Plus, tater tots. 1501 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-4016, originalsuperburger.com
Baguette — Goguette Bread
You can follow the preordering, neat-line efficiency of this family-owned French bakery, or lean into the maybe-they’ll-run-out, maybe-they-won’t chaos. The long-fermented sourdough base is the foundation for nearly all the crackly-crusted breads locals can’t get enough of and will queue for. The baton-like baguette is my go-to: an impressive accompaniment to charcuterie boards, fancy dinners or just tearing apart with bare hands and slathering with French butter. 59 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, goguettebread.com
Funghi Di Limone — Rosso
A glass of red wine, a mushroom pizza with funky taleggio and lemon oil, and a few friends is my idea of a perfect night out. Especially if they have their own pizzas. I’m not sharing. 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-615-7893, rossopizzeria.com