Oops, you did it again. The most romantic day of the year is less than 24 hours away and you haven’t got a prayer of getting a romantic dinner reservation for your honey. Relax, Romeo. BiteClub made a few phone calls to pull your bacon out of the fire. You owe me. Big.

You can’t beat the wow-factor of having liquid nitrogen and cream churned tableside at Madrona Manor (1001 Westside Rd., Healdsburg, 433.1542). Despite the cutesy Victorian décor of this Healdsburg bed and breakfast, Chef Jesse Malgren’s haute cuisine is anything but old-fashioned.

Impress your date with your culinary savvy at Bistro 29 (620 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 546-2929), a spanking-new French spot headed up by Lolos’ kitchen alum Brian Anderson. Come on, how sexy are crepes a deux? They’ll be serving their regular menu (steak frites, sardines with sea salt and fois gras with black fig jam) throughout the weekend, but Anderson promises a few surprises.

Get warm and fuzzy with Wine Spectrum Lounge’s blind “Lover’s Tasting” “a guessing game involving five glasses and some sexy sipping “or their champagne flight paired with chocolate truffles ($10, 123 4th St, Santa Rosa, 636-1064). If you’re headed toward Healdsburg, Chef Mateo Granados’ hosts insiders-only dinner featuring five courses with a Latin touch at the intimate Costeaux Bakery (reservations, 433-2338).

Cafe Saint Rose (465 Sebastopol Ave, Santa Rosa, 546.2459) offers up their saucy Valentine’s menu through the weekend and Chef Mark Malicki says there are still a few tables left for procrastinators on Friday. To get you in the mood, check out their romantically-themed dinner and a movie tonight.

One of the most romantic recommendations for the adventuresome couple: Duck larb and karaoke at always colorful Vang Vieng (formerly Na Thong, 3446 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 206-0884). Things get rocking on Friday and Saturday nights.

Syrah restaurant still has a couple of spots left for their four course prix-fixe Valentine’s dinner featuring a heart-palpitating lineup of aphrodisiacs: oysters, lobster Vol-au-Vent and Scharffen Berger chocolate mousse. ($85 per person, 205 Fifth Street, Santa Rosa, 568-4002). Still not satisfied? Take-out sushi from BiteClub’s Sushi Smackdown winner, Ume Japanese Bistro (8710 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 838-6700). If you can’t stomach the monkfish pate (which frankly shows a lot of style in my book), go for a spicy Saigon roll filled with salmon and a hot kick of chili and wasabi “best eaten using your fingers. Or, even better, your lover’s.

In the eternal quest for the latest and greatest, it’s easy to forget about the restaurants that stick it out day after day, year after year, serving up great food. Not the fanciest food or the most innovative. Just food you can count on. Money well spent. Tummies totally satisfied. Places you want to go back repeatedly, but somehow forget about.

I’ve actually been to two spots in the last couple of days that fit the bill. The first, I’ll talk about later this week, but (hint, hint) it’s Indian. The second is one you’ve been chatting up for weeks now, Café Citti.

Entirely unimpressive from the outside, this Kenwood sleeper slips my mind in the winter. Not that it should–here’s a cozy fireplace and plenty of steamy pasta dishes that will warm your cockles year round. But the outdoor patio is such a perfect summer hangout–sipping raspberry lemonade and nibbling insalada Caprese throughout July and August–I tend to whiz by in January and February. Well, that and the fact that the parking lot’s always packed to capacity.

As pretty much anyone who’s been through the Sonoma Valley knows (because we all end up there at some point), Italian’s the name of the game here. Housemade mozzarella, focaccia, pasta and desserts that have a lighter, Northern Italian flare. It’s a combination walk-up and sit-down eatery, think deli meets white napkin service. Somehow it works.

BiteClub’s Mission Caesar brought me around again. Luca’s garlicky Caesar lives up to its billing. And yes, it is that good. Your breath will be flattening co-workers for the remainder of the day, if not the week. There’s a real sardine on top, house-made croutons and crisp lettuce that (thankfully) is tossed and pre-cut. You can argue the authenticity of that amongst yourselves. I’m all for others doing the work for me.

A Caesar alone won’t bring me back, however. The kitchen’s gotta prove its mojo throughout the menu, and Citti does that. Sandwiches (try the tuna, egg, mayo) are epic. Linguine in lemon cream sauce never fails me. And the tiramisu (which I don’t order lightly) is truly worthy of saving room for. No wonder the Michelin Guide loves them.

Oh, and then there’s Joel. You asked, and I found him. He’s the resident red-headed waitron so many of you love. He sends his regards. Albeit a little sheepishly. Say hello next time you’re in.

Which really should be soon. Because Café Citti is forgotten no more.

Café Citti, 9049 Sonoma Hwy./Hwy. 12, Kenwood, (707) 833-2690. Daily 11:00am-3:30pm, 5-8:30pm, Fri-Sat until 9pm. But sheesh, call ahead before you make the drive.

I’m not usually a fan of chain restaurants. And I know most of you hate them as well. But let’s not throw the baby out with the bathwater. Sometimes, occasionally, once in a blue moon, they really have some redeeming qualities. Mr. Pickles is one of them.

Now, understand that my universal hatred of chain sandwich shops is fairly legendary around these parts. I hate the slimy turkey, tasteless bread and mealy tomatoes that come out of most of these places. Ick.

The recently opened Mr. Pickles, which I just enjoy saying – a lot – has so far impressed. The ‘Hot T’, a warm ‘wich of turkey, cranberry sauce, melted pepperjack cheese, Baja sauce and garlic sauce (do ask for it) is a warm hug on a Dutch crunch bun. I’ve been back three times, mostly on rainy, gray days, which is almost unheard of in my book. There are too many other spots to eat.

Despite, or maybe because of the downward turn in the economy, the place has been packed with steaming bodies almost every day since opening. Maybe it’s the dancing pickle outside. Maybe it’s just the sandwiches (most under $7). The staff are friendly and fun, adding to the casual, easy vibe of the place.

Oddly enough, they don’t offer chips, instead you can bulk up on macaroni or potato salad. Or you know, bring your own. Otherwise, BiteClub is satisfied.

So okay–Mr. Pickles (which operates shops throughout California and Nevada) may not be a revelation or culinary masterwork, it does have some seriously redeeming qualities. The ‘Hot T’ for example. And the free cookies. And Mr. Pickle dancing outside on a rainy day.

Mr. Pickles, 621 4th Street Santa Rosa and 3100 Lakeville Hwy., Petaluma.

BiteClub hears that Petaluma’s Cafe Zazzle will re-open on Friday, January 25 at 11am, according to owners. The restaurant has been closed since late October when a kitchen fire did significant smoke damage to the building. Can they make a comeback?

If the shark has indeed jumped on retro-chic steak joints, nobody told Santa Rosa. Just a week after opening, Mark and Terri Stark’s Railroad Square steakhouse is packed with curious locals willing to pay top dollar for organic, dry aged, corn and grass-fed cuts of beef hand-picked by the city’s favorite chef.

You’ll get the Bogie-and-Bacall vibe right away. Manhattans, aged whiskies and absinthe are served by white-coated bar staff. The seats are leather. Wedge salad and creamed spinach are side staples. A baby grand sits in the corner waiting to tinkle out a tune or two.

Housed in the former Michele’s restaurant, Mark and Terri Stark (who also own the highly-rated Willi’s Wine Bar and Willi’s Seafood in Healdsburg) gutted the historic spot, pretty much starting from scratch.

It’s still a massive space, divided between white-tablecloth restaurant service (reservations recommended) and a come-as-you-are bistro/lounge (first come, first served).

If you’re up for a little wait and a lot of action, vulture for a lounge table on busy weekend nights. Service may get a bit harried when things really start jumping and you may end up with folks standing around your table eyeing your steak hungrily. Down another gin and tonic and soak in the atmosphere.

Not surprisingly, steaks are what you’re here for. Don’t be shy if you don’t know the difference between filet mignon, ribeye, New York Strip, grass-fed or corn-fed. Staff are happy to explain the cuts and preparation. Feel free to guild the lily with a topper of foie gras or ‘popcorn’ sweetbreads along with a side of Béarnaise, Boursin cheese (BiteClub’s personal fave) or truffle aioli. (We won’t tell.) If you’re not a steak and potatoes sort, there are a handful of other choices on the menu, from duck to sole. You just have to ask yourself why you’re eating at a steakhouse, if it ain’t the black and blue you’re after.

Sides are a Stark signature. They’ve trotted out old favorites (mac ‘n cheese among them) along with some killer additions you won’t want to miss: Chicken fried onion rings; yam fries sprinkled with sugar and salt; duck-fat fried frites, and creamed spinach. Indulge your every whim. We insist.

The wine list may have Willi’s devotees scratching their heads, however. Instead of the Stark’s usual heady list of by-the-glass pours, here they’ve focused efforts on half-bottles. It’s a bold move. The in-house sommelier, Paul, says it gives diners the flexibility of trying more than one style of wine (you’ll get about 2.5 glasses or so out of a half bottle) and assures a fresh pour. To that end, Paul’s collected scads of high-end (and more reasonably-priced) petite pours, along with impressive full bottles focused on robust reds. Don’t hesitate to ask for an assist. McNibs and I ended up with a $26 bottle of Mas de Gourgonnier that was just the ticket.

The dessert list is compact, but impressive. Best bet: The crème brulee with sea salt–a sweet, savory end that’s stout enough for sharing.

Drawbacks? Though the restaurant has been touted as a spot for young, urban-minded folks, the $30-plus price tag for most steaks (not including sides, drinks and desserts) may raise the pierced eyebrows of their former-Barcode demographic. You’ll easily drop two Benjamins on dinner and drinks for two. Not outlandish in steakhouse or expense account terms. Not exactly Outback, either.

But what’s it worth to be whisked back to a time when red meat, butter and whiskey were practically health food? A time when bartenders dressed in white coats. And going out for dinner was an event, not an excuse.

Stark’s Steakhouse, 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707.546.5100.
The restaurant will open for weekday lunches Jan. 21, 11:30am to 2:30 pm; dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5pm to 9pm and Friday and Saturday dinners until 10pm.

See a menu | See more photos

Check out the photos of Zazu’s nose to tail feast, held Jan. 20, 2008. Celebrating the Feast of Saint Anthony (the patron saint of butchers), chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart invited friends and eaters to indulge in an homage to pork. As founder of Black Pig Meat, Stewart is a preserved-meats master and porcine devotee.

On the menu: Housemade salami with pickled grapes; pig head soup, pig heart salad, braised pork shoulder and a little bayleaf gelato for dessert (sadly, no bacon ice cream).

Duskie and John head to New York in coming weeks as part of a state-wide advertising campaign to promote the tastes of California. The two have been chosen, along with Santa Rosa’s Guy Fieri, to serve a luncheon to media as part of the campaign. They’re featuring lamb, along with goat cheese fritters topped with local honey (plus some other stuff I’ve already forgotten). Sante, guys!

I love it when discussions start up spontaneously that get everybody thinking. This week, folks started talking about the area’s best Caesar salad–a thread that spawned from the opening of Stark’s Steakhouse.

And that got me thinking. After a week of shortribs, mashed potatoes and gut-busting stews, where can you get a top-notch salad? Despite the winter chill, raw veggies clearly aren’t just a summer thing with us Northern Californians.

I’ll admit that I rarely order salads when I’m dining out–it seems like a cop-out when I’m jonesing for serious meat-and-potatoe entries. Why fill up on lettuce, when there’s Liberty duck to be had, right? That, and the fact that when I do order them, they always leave me, well, a little cold.

A couple of faves (from my limited experience):

– Spinach, walnut, blue cheese and pear salad at Flavor Bistro, 96 Old Courthouse Square. Santa Rosa, (707) 573-9600.

– Beet and goat cheese salad pretty much anywhere

– Poached egg salad at the Parkside Cafe

– Sauteed mung bean spouts at Chinois

So, the lines are open folks. Where’s the best Caesar (I had no idea Equus did one tableside)? Who’s got a line on the Big Salad? Shout it out.

Oh, and regarding Dempsey’s Caesar: I put in a call to see if Bernadette would part with the recipe, but no luck. She tells me they sell nearly 25,000 of the salads each year and how they make it is a closely guarded secret. She did let a few hints out, however. The use red wine vinegar and the “classic” inclusion of uncooked eggs in the dressing. Hey, we’re willing to play a little food roullette for this salad.

Here are the original posts…
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Posted By: Loveslifegal (11/01/2008 6:38:53 PM)
Comment: Had dinner at Stark’s last night (the official opening night to the public). Nice atmosphere, beef was fabulous, as were the sides I ordered. The only less than perfect item was the Caesar salad, I would suggest you skip it. If you have ever had a Caesar’s at Dempsey’s you are spoiled for life. I will return to Stark’s very soon!

Posted By: Loveslifegal (14/01/2008 1:47:06 PM)
Comment: To Ms.Steak, the caesar dressing didn’t have any significant amount of lemon, anchovy or garlic flavors. I love a caesar dressing that is big on all of those flavors. The dressing at Stark’s actually tasted like something out of a bottle and there was in fact very little dressing on the salad. If you like caesar salads, treat yourself to the one Dempseys in Petaluma serves. I drive 20 miles just to have it. Wish they would part with the recipe…..

Posted By: garliccrouton (17/01/2008 11:31:47 AM)
Comment: There’s a blog I would love to start…best caesar salad in Sonoma Co. My pick is Cafe Citi, Kenwood.

Posted By: Wojamo (17/01/2008 2:27:17 PM)
Comment: I second the motion for adding a “Best Caesar Salad” post. Not in the running: Union Hotel. It seems to fit “loveslifegal’s” assessment of Stark’s- kind of insipid. Blah.

Posted By: Michelle (17/01/2008 10:09:30 PM)
Comment: The tableside Caesar at Equis is good it’s not the same on the lunch/lounge menu though. When it is done tableside, it tastes better! The caesar salad at Rosso’s is good too. Good blog Garlicrouton!!

Everything but the squeal
Okay, word on the street is that when it comes to food trends, salumi has officially jumped the shark. Along with artisan bacon and, well, anything pig related. I say phooey.
Like the little black dress, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Chanel No. 5, pork is a timeless classic.

Settling in for the long, porcine haul are the John and Duskie at Zazu. Long committed to the craft of curing, the couple will host a Whole Hog Supper on Sunday, January 20. Featuring just about everything but the squeal, this is serious nose-to-tail eating. The menu goes something like this: Black Pig Salumi with pickled grapes; Hog’s Head Soup with faro and soffritto, Cuoro di Lambrusco (pig heart cooked in red sparkling Lambrusco wine), roasted pork shoulder with mashed potatoes and citrus pound cake with bay leaf gelato. Mmmm.

(Preaching to the choir alert) I’ve become a fan of rustic cuts (admittedly in principle, more than in practice–pork cheeks, ears and skulls are impossible to find retail). If you’re going to eat meat, you darned well better understand that it doesn’t originate in a plastic-wrapped container. Being a carnivore is a brutal business, admittedly. So the least we can do is appreciate as much of the animal–in this case humanely raised, well-tended creatures–as possible. Nose to tail. Call 707.523.4814 to reserve your spot. $70 per person, not including gratuity or tax.

New blood at West County Grill
I’ve heard a lot of grumbling about what was originally touted as the second coming of Alice–or something–over in Sebastopol. My take: The West Country Grill has never quite lived up to the hype. Gossip round the food community is that the souls of the Waters proteges–Jonathan Waxman and Co.–who opened the restaurant seem to be lacking. In any case, a new GM, Louisiana native Terrell Brunet, has taken over head honcho duties. After Katrina, Terrell relocated to SF and has been working in Bay Area bistros. Salvation? We’ll see.

Winey Weekends
Don’t forget about Winter Wineland, this weekend (Jan. 19/20) where Russian River wineries showcase new releases and the famously wild and wacky ZinFest January 23-26 in San Francisco.

Don’t know a Tourtiere from Poulet Basquais? Ever wonder what the heck bouillabaisse actually is? Me too. Over the weekend, I found what’s quite possibly the coolest book ever, 1001 Foods to Die For, a compendium of the most fascinating foods in the world, with entries written by a who’s who of food — from the New York Times’ Mark Bittman to Mario Batali, Donna Hay, Marcella Hazan, Alice Waters and Roadfood’s Jane and Michael Stern with an intro by Atlantic Monthly food writer Corby Kummer.

It’s a big fat read, with tons of lush foodie porn, recipes and straightforward explanations.

So puzzle no longer over okonomiyaki or Welsh Caerphilly gastro-nerds. This Bulgogi’s for you.

1001 Foods to Die For, Andrews McMeel Publishing, $39.95