Burger bust


BiteClub’s been on a burger quest lately, with varying degrees of success. The latest grill: Healdsburger in (you guessed it) Healdsburg.

BiteClubbers had a few comments about this new(ish) burger spot after the Gayle’s post, so I figured it might be worth the 20 minute trek north to check things out.

First sign that things might go wrong was a nearly deserted restaurant during what should be a noon-time crush. The second uh-oh was a dissatisfied customer (one of only two people in the restaurant) complaining about his $8 burger. But the biggest skidout was ordering a $9 gorgonzola burger and having the cook throw a frozen patty on the grill. Ouch.

Overall, the burger wasn’t exactly awful and the sweet potato fries were passable. I’d probably order it again for $5. But for $9? I’m gonna have to put this one in the deep freeze.

Healdsburger, 48 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 473.9604. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.

Help me help you

It’s been a slow couple of weeks on the restaurant opening front, so BiteClub’s opening the lines to you.

1. What are your most burning, yearning questions? Where to get the best sweet potato fries? Best Club sandwich? Tops in tiramisu? Chiles rellenos? Tell me. You’ll get an answer.

2. What restaurants are crying out to be called out? Is there an old standby that you’d like to see BiteClubbed? Is there a new spot in your neighborhood that I haven’t found yet? Do you have a favorite lunch spot that begs to be recognized?

Here’s your chance to get it all off your chest. I’m listening…

Abyssinia

Santa Rosa’s downtown Korean BBQ, Nhabee Cafe, has recently been replaced by a new Ethiopian/Eritrean eatery, Abyssinia. Injera fans have been left hungry after the departure of Santa Trata Cafe several months ago. Stay tuned.

Abysinnia, 913 Fourth St., Santa Rosa

Original Superburger | Santa Rosa

Not much has changed at Santa Rosa’s Original Superburger since it’s opening more than 30 years ago.”

It’s a tried-and-true formula was simple: honest burgers, fries and onion rings served up in red plastic baskets around an old school lunch counter. Pies were homemade, as were the milkshakes. Folks from the neighborhood packed the place and the waitresses greeted regulars by name.

With a cool retro vibe inside, the place feels pretty much like it always has. Milkshakes are still made the old-fashioned way–with ancient looking Hamilton Beach mixers, milk and ice cream. The pie rack still has fresh-made pies (from Mom’s). The burgers are still fried up to order and the King Burger is still a charbroiled half-pounder with all the fixings.

And you just know a burger’s gonna be good when the counter sports rolls of paper towels rather than napkins.

Newer to the menu are Wine Country burger creations including the St. Helena Avenue (a burger with BBQ sauce, bacon, cheddar and onion rings, $7.95), the Montecito Avenue (with bacon, Jack and guacamole, ($7.95), the McDonald Avenue (with mushrooms and warm Gorgonzola, $7.95) and, the Town and Country ($8.95), two mini-sized versions of any of the burgers on the menu. Great for indecisive folks.

Also on the menu are Schwarz dogs, kosher weenies made in San Francisco, served straight up or with corned beef, cheese and kraut. Kids get top billing, as well, with their own menu of mini burgers, toasted cheese or (and honestly, I want one of these) toasted peanut butter, bananas and jam for $3.

Original Superburger, 1501 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 546-4016, originalsuperburger.com

Original Superburger

Change is never easy to swallow, but it goes down especially hard when it involves your favorite lunch.

In January Santa Rosa’s classic burger joint, Gayle’s, was sold by owners Gayle and Doug Dowling after nearly thirty years in the biz. Their tried-and-true formula was simple: honest burgers, fries and onion rings served up in red plastic baskets around an old school lunch counter. Pies were homemade, as were the milkshakes. Folks from the neighborhood packed the place and the waitresses greeted regulars by name.

Recently re-opened under new ownership, at first blush, not much appears to have changed. In fact, aside from a fresh coat of paint, new fixtures and the conspicuous absence of the giant menu hanging above the grill, the place feels pretty much like it always has. Milkshakes are still made the old-fashioned way–with ancient looking Hamilton Beach mixers, milk and ice cream. The pie rack still has fresh-made pies (from Mom’s). The burgers are still fried up to order and the King Burger is still a charbroiled half-pounder with all the fixings.

So, now for the changes. Hold on to your napkins, I promise you’ll be okay.

The name has changed slightly from Gayle’s Superburger to The Original Superburger– the “original” having something to do with the current owner’s girlfriend’s family having run the restaurant way back in the day. Works for me. The menu’s also changed up to include several new burger creations including the St. Helena Avenue (a burger with BBQ sauce, bacon, cheddar and onion rings, $7.95), the Montecito Avenue (with bacon, Jack and guacamole, ($7.95), the McDonald Avenue (with mushrooms and warm Gorgonzola, $7.95) and, the Town and Country ($8.95), two mini-sized versions of any of the burgers on the menu. Great for indecisive folks. Extra work for new owner/grillmaster Bill, who’s manning the flames solo. That means that when things really get hopping, you may want to grab a paper and settle in.

Also on new to the menu are Schwarz dogs, kosher weenies made in San Francisco, served straight up or with corned beef, cheese and kraut. Kids get top billing, as well, with their own menu of mini burgers, toasted cheese or (and honestly, I want one of these) toasted peanut butter, bananas and jam for $3.

Which is not to say there aren’t a few kinks to work out. BiteClub’s heard from you, and not everyone’s singing the new Superburger’s praises. Doing my own recon well after the lunch crush passed, I waited a good long while for a “medium” burger that was almost raw on the inside. I’m not afraid of pink meat, but I was afraid the thing might start mooing. I’m willing to chalk it up to opening week jitters because the staff was practically falling all over themselves to fix their snafus.

Hey, not everyone can work a grill like Doug and Gayle. But served up with a nice glass of fresh Meyer lemonade and a smile, a little change can be a good thing.

We’ll see how things pan out over the next few months.

The Original Superburger, 1501 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 546-4016. Open 11am to 8pm Monday through Thursday, 11am to 10pm Friday and Saturday, closed Sunday.

Hog’s out of the bag

The hog’s out of the bag. After months of whispers and conjecture about who’d take over a conspicuously empty restaurant hole at the Oxbow Public Market, word is that Hog Island Oysters will be setting up shop in the Napa space next fall. Modeled after their successful Ferry Building bar in San Francisco, the spot will serve up their popular raw oysters, salads, sandwiches and seafood entrees. Taylor’s Automatic Refresher, along with Pica Pica, Rotisario and Model Bakery have all recently opened in the space. Find out more about the market from my Dec. 9 preview of the opening

Khoom Lanna

Khoom Lanna

Khoom LannaThe fact that I’ve eaten something like eight spring rolls in the last week should serve as clear testament that Southeast Asia is alive and
well-represented in Sonoma County’s food repertoire. And in my own.
But as peanut sauce, Pad Thai and Tom Yum become increasingly common, they’re also becoming increasingly uninspired.
Now before you throw your chopsticks at me, let me say that I love a good satay and Pad Thai as much as the next guy. But menus like the one at the recently opened Khoom Lanna confound me. Because while I’ve come to expect ho-hum, ubiquit-Asian dishes like calamari rings, cream cheese wontons (ye gods!), satay, coconut prawns, sweet and sour pork, cashew chicken and pineapple fried rice at lesser haunts, I’m disappointed at seeing them here. Khoom Lanna claims as its inspiration and namesake ‘Lanna’, the Thai kingdom known for its creativity and fine food and has a price point to match ($9.95 to $12.95 for most entrees).
Pushing through the fledgling restaurant’s menu, however, I am inspired by dishes like Plah Gung ($10.95), charboiled prawns with lemon grass, onions, cilantro, lime and ground rice powder. Beautifully plated, it packs a flavor one-two punch. Lime, lemongrass, sweet, salty, savory and crunchy all at once–something Thai food does like no other. Unfortunately, after a few bites, the
powerful fish sauce and herbs start to grate on the palate. There’s potential here if the chef can get the flavors evened out.
The fresh rolls ($8.95) are also imaginatively plated, with little bean sprout Afros puffing out on top. Again, nice initial flavor, but the blob of earthy sprouts just gets in the way after few bites. Kudos, however, for the warm, savory peanut sauce served along side that’s among the best I’ve had.
Lunch specials, like the daily curry ($7.95), are a good bet at Khoom Lanna if you want to try a smaller version of the house curries or other entrees. One pitfall: The tasty appetizer promised was a lackluster green salad doused with pucker-inducing vinegar. A better bet might be soup, or a spring roll to really get my mouth-watering.
Also pleasing is the variety of curries, including ‘Jungle Curry’ made without coconut milk and studded with catfish and veggies, along with Tamarind fish (steamed red snapper with tamarind, peppers, ginger and onions) and sticky rice.
Khoom Lanna, 107 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707.545.8424. Open 11-2:30pm for lunch, 5pm to 10pm for dinner.

Hang Ah

BiteClubbers are asking what’s up with the former A&W restaurant off Hwy 101 near Coddingtown. Word is that Hang Ah Tea Room, who tout themselves as Chinatown’s oldest dim sum spot, will open an offshoot here in the SR.

The site’s been in the works for a few months, and owners say they don’t yet have a solid opening date. “Maybe a month,” was the harried answer BiteClub got.

Bloggers and other gastronauts give the old school San Francisco spot mixed reviews. But with honest dim sum such a rarity north of Golden Gate, BiteClub’s willing to keep an optimistic outlook on the newcomers.

What’s open

BiteClub and McNibs have this ongoing problem–we absolutely crave sushi around 2pm every Sunday afternoons. Problem is, every sushi spot we go to is closed. Ferme. Lights out and nobody home. I’m convinced it’s a conspiracy.

Leave it to my ex-hubby to find the solution: WhatsOpen.com. He’s sweet that way.

And while I hestitate to send my legion of trusty BiteClubbers to another food site, it would be so wrong of me not to tell you about it. Still in Beta, it’s still got a few kinks, but here’s the magic: Type in Sushi and Santa Rosa. Voila. A whole list of sushi restaurants in Santa Rosa pops up. On a map. With their hours. And phone number. Heaven.

Far from infallible, it still lacks a few critical components–reviews, updated info (there were some restaurants that either no longer exist or I’ve never heard of) and the actual days of the week the restaurants are open.

But in a pinch, when you’re feeling that undeniable craving for Mexican in the middle of Kenwood, Italian on the way to Napa or just a good old cup of coffee near your house, WhatsOpen.com is a killer app for the on-the-go-epicure.

Just remember your old pal, BiteClub, once in a while.

Whatsopen.com

Bistro 29 opens

Though its been open just a week, Bistro 29 seems to already have the blessing of local foodies who’ve been steadily streaming into the former Lolo’s space for first dibs at ratatouille crepes, roasted chicken and oddly enough, even the grilled Monterey Bay sardines (which BiteClub imagined might be a hard sell in The SR.) And word on the street, or at least on the blog, is that Chef Brian Anderson has got the goods to make a go of the Fifth Street spot that’s been cursed since the closure of Lolo’s. An alum of the much-missed restaurant, however, Anderson’s been able to reacquaint himself pretty quickly.

The menu is classic French bistro fare, so set your expectations accordingly. This ain’t Chevy’s. Starters include a endive, pear and seared crottin (a soft French cheese) salad; pan-seared foie gras and–getting the most kudos–steamed mussels with Pernod cream and fries made from garbanzo bean flour.

Crepes, however, are a specialty of the maison. Going full-throttle in the kitchen is a steaming griddle that’s pretty regularly slathered with buckwheat batter for both sweet and savory crepes. If you’re a fan of ratatouille, don’t miss Anderson’s rustic take on this classic–in a crepe. Entrees top out at $26 for a beef fillet, but favorites are the roasted chicken with truffled fries ($19), Cassoulet with duck confit ($24) and, though not for every palate, the very, ahem, fragrant olive oil-cured sardines. Just don’t plan to bring any leftovers home. Please.

Desserts swing back to crepes, with a selection of sweet finishes, including BiteClub’s fave: lemon and brown sugar. If you’ve saved some room (which you probably haven’t), honey-glazed beignets with fresh huckleberries are a solid choice, as is the porfiterole with ice cream, chocolate sauce and toasted candied pecans. Resistance is futile.

Bistro 29, 620 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 546-2929.