Cafe Saint Rose, eggs and more…


Saint Rose’s move

Sitting on the beach last week, I got an alarming call from home. Cafe Saint Rose is closing! Though the details were still sketchy, it was sad news. Enough to put me off my poke, at least temporarily.

Fortunately, news of their demise has been greatly exaggerated. Instead of closing, Mark Malicki and crew are merely moving. They’ll be in their current location in Santa Rosa through the end of March. No word yet on re-opening, but we’ll cross our fingers that it’s before June.

Yes, it will be more of a haul to get yourself out to the where the Two Crows Roadhouse on Bodega Highway currently resides (they’ll be there until the middle of April). But a little more elbow room (and a lovely patio area) is a small price to pay.

I’ll let Mark tell you the details about the move (which I lifted from his blog):

Hello Everyone – It has been such a lovely spring spring so far. I hope you have been well.
I haven’t been keeping in touch with all of you as things at Saint Rose have been chaotic – but at this point things are taking a turn.

So there is this place about two miles outside of Sebastopol on Bodega Highway called “Two Crows Roadhouse.” It is a great restaurant, I can actually see it from where I live. I have lived in Sonoma County for something like 20 years and every time I drive by I think of how great it would be to open a place there.

Well, a funny thing happened one day. I’ll tell you all the details another time, but the way it is taking shape is amazing- much better than I could come up with on my own.

The short version is that the owners of Two Crows decided it was time for them to travel, and so Two Crows will become Saint Rose in a matter of weeks. I hope you’ll get out to two Crows before they close for a great meal and to get the feel of the place. I don’t know their hours off-hand so you may want to call ahead. TWO CROWS ROADHOUSE 9890 Bodega Hwy. 707-829-589

Thanks for taking the time to read this – I will keep you up to date on our progress. thanks again – mark

Fresh Easter Eggs
Susan Mall (wife of Zin chef, Jeff Mall) sends this news…

I will be at the Cheese Shop, at 423 Center Street in Healdsburg, on Friday, March 21st from 1 pm to 4 pm selling our Eastside Farm Fresh Eggs, Sustainable Sacks, and Eastside Farm Jams along with Zin Grape Jelly! I hope you can stop by and see me and buy some eggs! I just delivered 14 dozen to Doralice today, some of which are already green laid by our “Easter Egger” hens!

New Meadowood Chef
And finally, Meadowood announces the appointment of a new chef for The Restaurant at Meadowood, Chef Christopher Kostow. Kostow’s pedigree: Chef Kostow comes to Meadowood from Chez TJ in Mountain View, California, one of only six Northern California restaurants – along with The Restaurant at Meadowood – to garner two stars last fall from the esteemed Michelin Guide. Additionally, Kostow’s food received three starts from The San Francisco Chronicle and Kostow’s Maitake Consomme was featured in Food & Wine Magazine as one of the 10 best dishes of 2007.

Before working at Chez TJ, Chef Kostow began his restaurant career at the acclaimed Georges at the Cove in La Jolla, California, working under the tutelage of Chef Trey Foshe. He then ventured to France, working at such places as Chez Georges in Paris, the three-star Michelin-rated Les Jardins de Sens in Montpellier, and under Chef Christian Morriset at the two-star Michelin-rated La Terrasse in the French Riveria. Upon returning to San Francisco he assumed the role of Sous Chef at Campton Place Hotel under Chef Daniel Humm which received Four Stars from The San Francisco Chronicle.

Guest Blogger: Ad Hoc

Guest blogger Lynn hits Ad Hoc. I’m back Thursday with a full report on Maui dining. Get hungry!

I am just
back from
the Monday night fried chicken dinner at Ad Hoc in Yountville and am happy to
report it is a soul satisfying comfort meal, the perfect antidote to
Monday.

Buttermilk fried
chicken is the entree on alternate Mondays, and as an aside, will be offered on
Wednesdays as well starting next week.
The meal began with
a butter lettuce Cobb salad, unique with oven dried intensely flavored tomatoes,
olives, avocado, bacon and tender quartered boiled eggs.
It was like a BLT
with avocado in a bowl. My husband didn’t eat salads until Ad Hoc.
They are the beginning course, and a revelation of creative ingredients, deft
dressing and garden freshness.
The chicken is
freshly made to order and served family style. Collard greens, buttery
whipped Yukon potatoes along with tiny flaky buttermilk biscuits and huckleberry
jam round out your visit to a southern meal.
The windows were
open when we arrived because of the heat of the frying – adding to the
authenticity of the overall experience, real home cooking. Like grandma’s
fried chicken without the Ritz Cracker coating.
The buttermilk
batter is thick but crisp and fully satisfying with a sprinkling of
salt crystals, The chicken is mounded atop butcher paper in
a
copper serving pan and i
t is a sight to behold.
Every meal at Ad Hoc
has a cheese course and Monday we were served Cypress Grove’s Truffle Tremor, a
thin goat cheese wedge dotted with truffle flecks atop toasted palladin
spread with a crunchy roughly chopped pistachio butter. On the cutting
board this course is served on comes a tiny glass pot of Marshall’s Farm honey
to drizzle over the cheese atop the bread. Crunchy, salty and sweet all in
one bite.
Finally chocolate
chip cookie ice cream sandwiches round out this homey menu.
There is an
abundance of food served, they are generous, and for the truly ravenous, you can
request more.
They serve one menu
each evening for the entire restaurant, this is their concept and clearly they
have an audience, though it may not serve everyone’s
desires.
Beef shows
up several nights each week. I have cancelled many a reservation
because I wasn’t enamored of the menu, but when the stars are aligned and the
written menu appeals, the food sings!
You can sign up for
their emailed menu at their website to be tempted
daily.

ad

hoc
6476 Washington
Street
Yountville, CA
94599
707-9442487

Finbar Devine’s & Irish Soda Bread

Bite Club is cruising the Islands of Hawaii this week and has left you in the hands of strangers, what to do, what to do? Well, I’ll try my best to find something suitable for today’s rambunctious holiday.

Ok, ok, maybe you can’t get as green around the gills as you might like this Saint Patrick’s Day, it falling on a Monday and all, but at least in Petaluma you can get your “Irish” on after a hard days work. Finbar Devine’s is pulling out their inner Leprechaun for their Saint Paddy’s Day celebration.

Obviously Finbar’s caters to an Irish appeal, but who can ignore an invitation for $5 Corned Beef Sammys to-go starting at 11am. Love it.

You can also pull up a bar stool with a Corned Beef and Cabbage meal or Shepard’s Pie, $13.95 lunch/$14.95 dinner.

And don’t skip the beer – Duh! Guinness, Harp, and Smithwicks (pronounced Sm-dicks) for $6 per 20oz pint, are sure to get you adequately happy even if you’re not a smidge Irish (but please remember to at least wear your green undies if you’re not).

Starting at 5pm, watch Keenan Irish Dancers parade around the street front beer garden being erected specially for today’s festivities. From 6:30 to 7pm the MacIntosh Pipe Band will also be wowing crowds, and at 7pm the party moves indoors for the Pladdohg Band, who will apparently be rocking the house till 10pm.

Finbar Devine’s, 145 Kentucky Street, Petaluma 762-9800
. Open early for Saint Patrick’s Day – 11am-till the party ends!

Oh, and in case you can’t make it out to party, thought I’d pass on one of my favorite Irish recipes.

Cheers!

Meloni Courtway is a freelance food writer and blogger, contact her at www.melonicourtway.com

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

The Courtway’s Irish Soda Bread

Heat oven to 375 if using a metal pan, 350 if using glass

4 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking powder
2 tablespoons caraway seeds
6 tablespoons butter
2 cups dried currants
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1 egg
1 tsp. Baking soda

In a large bowl combine and mix flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder. Cut the 6 tablespoons butter into the dry ingredients. Add the two cups currants. In another bowl combine buttermilk, egg and baking soda. Beat well and then stir into dry ingredients. Mix until just moistened. Turn out onto clean lightly floured board and knead lightly until smooth. Shape into a ball and place in a greased 2 qt. casserole. Cut cross in top with a sharp knife and brush with milk. Bake 1 hour and 10 minutes or until done. Cool for at least 10 minutes, turn out and cool completely before slicing.

Vince makes cheese

While I’m eating my way through Maui (stay tuned for details), I’ve asked a few friends to fill you guys in on some of their favorite finds in Sonoma County. Today, Vince gives the lowdown on Beverage People, where he gets the hookup for making his own cheese. I love this spot!

One of the great things about living in the wine country is our proximity to all of the wonderful artisanal foods Bite Club has so graciously pointed out to
us. I mean, hey, there’s nothing like having a glass of Merry Edwards
pinot with some Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk or a baguette with some Olive Press
olive oil and some B.R. Cohn vinegar or how about a nice cold Russian River
Brewing Co. Pliny the Elder, all by itself? Yumm! One thing we
often overlook, though, is that the so called artisans are people just like
us. So why can’t we make an amazing brie, a fine wine, an audacious beer
or a luxurious vinegar? The answer is we can!

One of my favorite places to pass the time in Sonoma County is our local home
brewing shop, The Beverage People, on Piner Road in Santa Rosa. Calling
it a home brewing shop is a bit of an understatement, though. They
specialize not only in brewing but also wine making, cheese making, mead making
and vinegar making. Byron, Nancy, Bob and the rest of the staff there is
friendly and very helpful for novices like me. They can provide recipes and
instructions as well as all the equipment and special ingredients you need to
make lots of different home made foods and drinks. The procedures for most are
quite simple once you do a few batches and let me tell you, eating or drinking
something you made yourself is a wonderful feeling.

So give it a try. Bust out those baking pans gathering dust in the back
of the closet and make your own bread. Take that Two Buck Chuck you don’t
want to drink and throw it in a jar with some mother* in your pantry and see what kind of vinegar you can whip
up. Search Craigslist during crush to find some premium cab or merlot
grapes and make some wine for your family and friends. Many vineyards
have extra grapes for sale and some will even crush on site for you.

My most recent
venture was to try cheese making. There are three main types of cheese: Soft fresh,
mold ripened and hard aged. This is a
vast oversimplification but these are the most basic divisions. Since fresh cheese is ready the quickest (well,
besides a 30
minute mozzarella
) I decided to try that first. I picked up some cheese molds, cheesecloth,
starter culture and rennet from The Beverage People and also some goat’s milk
from Trader Joe’s. The basic cheese
making process is to warm milk up to a temperature that a culture can grow in,
usually around 90 degrees (a good thermometer is critical here). You then add
the culture and the rennet, which curdles the milk and allows the curds and
whey to separate. The curd is gathered and drained, and pressed for hard
cheeses. Finally the cheese is left to dry.
In the case of mold ripened cheese a bacteria strain is added to create
the mold covering and add flavor. In my
case, once I put my curd in the cheese molds I let it dry for a couple days,
flipping it so that it kept its shape. At that point you could eat it fresh or
get fancy and add some Herbes de Provence or cracked black pepper and let it
pick up the flavors for a couple weeks before eating it, like I did.

If you’re
intimidated just jumping in without any instruction, The Beverage People offers
classes, as does Santa Rosa Junior College.
There are also lots of great
resources online. Don’t be afraid to try though. Wine, beer,
vinegar, cheese and leavened bread were all originally made by accident, so you
can’t mess it up too bad!


The procedures
for other cheeses are slightly more complex, but still easy if you’re patient.


The Beverage People,
840 Piner Rd # 14, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 (707) 544-2520

*Mother is the starter for vinegar, it contains acetic acid bacteria that
transforms alcohol into vinegar

Jade’s BBQ

UPDATE >CLOSED
Just a quick find before I jet off to the islands-
Steamed pork
buns are a love ’em or hate ’em kind of thing. All puffy, white and
doughy, they’re a bit like eating a pillow stuffed with meat. There’s a
certain nursery-like comfort to them, as well, though. When done right
(and they rarely are), they’re a steamy, sweet-savory treat that has no
real English translation “other than a sort of pork-filled jelly
doughnut.
I’ve had a tough time finding them fresh in the
North Bay. Sadly, Asia Gourmet, which routinely brought them in from
the city, recently closed its doors. In a stroke of good luck, however,
I stumbled on Jade BBQ on Santa Rosa Ave.
The spot’s been there
just a few months, serving up the usual take-out Asian fare, along with
hamburgers, fish ‘n chips and a few BBQ items. What’s more interesting,
however, is their steamed pork buns and duck special. For $14.99, you
can get half a crispy duck with a complement of plumy Hoisin sauce and
four fresh steamed buns.
The duck’s a bit fatty, but hey, it’s
duck. Chopped into mostly bite-sized pieces, you get a breast, leg and
wing with plenty of crispy, sinful skin. Be warned, the buns are
addictive.
Aloha!
Jade’s BBQ, 2790 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa, (707) 527-8536. Open Monday through Saturday.

Jade BBQ

Just a quick find before I jet off to the islands-

Steamed pork buns are a love ’em or hate ’em kind of thing. All puffy, white and doughy, they’re a bit like eating a pillow stuffed with meat. There’s a certain nursery-like comfort to them, as well, though. When done right (and they rarely are), they’re a steamy, sweet-savory treat that has no real English translation “other than a sort of pork-filled jelly doughnut.

I’ve had a tough time finding them fresh in the North Bay. Sadly, Asia Gourmet, which routinely brought them in from the city, recently closed its doors. In a stroke of good luck, however, I stumbled on Jade BBQ on Santa Rosa Ave.

The spot’s been there just a few months, serving up the usual take-out Asian fare, along with hamburgers, fish ‘n chips and a few BBQ items. What’s more interesting, however, is their steamed pork buns and duck special. For $14.99, you can get half a crispy duck with a complement of plumy Hoisin sauce and four fresh steamed buns.

The duck’s a bit fatty, but hey, it’s duck. Chopped into mostly bite-sized pieces, you get a breast, leg and wing with plenty of crispy, sinful skin. Be warned, the buns are addictive.

Aloha!

Jade’s BBQ, 2790 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa, (707) 527-8536. Open Monday through Saturday.

Blog your dang self!

After months and months and, well, months of the good life in Wine Country, BiteClub needs a little break. I’m headed to Maui for a week of tropical drinks, beaches and all the Spam I can possibly avoid–leaving the store to you guys.

I’ve lined up a couple of foodie friends to weigh in while I’m gone, but I’m still looking for a handful of the area’s forklifters to share their favorite restaurants.

So, if you’re up to the task (no money involved, just my undying gratitude), send me your best efforts for possible inclusion in this week’s special Guest Blogs. The best three or four will be posted while I’m away, thrusting YOU into the culinary spotlight.

Now, keep in mind, I can smell a rat a mile away. Submissions that are overly fawning or obviously written by the chef ain’t gonna make it. You’ll also need to include your name and email so I can get back to you if I have any questions.

Bon appetit and Aloha!

Submissions must be sent to hirwin@pressdemo.com.

BiteClub TV

Check out my day at the Artisan Cheese Festival (scroll down if you can’t see it)

Del Secco Gelato


With 40 flavors on the menu, Del Secco’s gelateria’s has the scoop on Sonoma County’s sweet tooth. The recently opened Rohnert Park shop features exotic sorbet and gelato (kind of like ice cream, but creamier) flavors including blood orange, cantaloupe, gingerbread, 50-50(think Creamsicle) and snowflake--a mixture of white chocolate and coconut.

The gelato’s not made onsite, but by the uber-popular, flavor-savvy Gelateria Naia folks from the East Bay. Hungry yet? Grab a spoon.

Del Secco’s, 6285 Commerce Blvd., Suite 308, Rohnert Park, 585.1100, open daily.

Vivere shuttered

Is 420 Mendocino Avenue cursed when it comes to restaurants? After spending months on an interior redesign, the short-lived Vivere has closed its doors. The spot never seemed to gain traction due to some strange staffing choices, inconsistent reports on the food, the lack of a liquor license and well, we’ll call it the curse of 420. The spot is up for lease, along with neighboring BarCode. What’s downtown coming to?

Check out my review of Vivere.