Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria | Geyserville

By biteclub
Pizza at Diavola in Geyserville. Heather Irwin/PD
Pizza at Diavola in Geyserville. Heather Irwin/PD

Two words: Lardo pizza. Or pig-fat pizza.
Fresh slices of house-cured lardo on top of a wood-fired pizza. Toss on a few tomatoes and you’ll never look at another piece of mushroom and pepperoni quite the same way again. And it’s just one of the devilish pizzas at Dino Bugica’s pizzeria, Diavola.
Diavola Pizzeria and Salumeria a bit of destiny for the former Santi chef who’s made his name as a top salumist in the North Bay. Bugica has a passion for pig — house-curing everything from prosciutto and salumi to his own sausage and lardo right on the property. If you stroll through the back gardens, you might even trip over a pig skull or two, an homage to his porcine pals.
With Santi’s reputation for higher-end Italian secured, Bugica decided to branch out into a simpler “cucina povera” (the simplest of kitchen foods) next door — pizza, antipasti, sandwiches and an entire case of his fresh salumi’s for take-out. It’s just the sort of quick-bite spot that the northernmost end of the Alexander Valley/Dry Creek region was in desperate need of.
Located just steps from the former Santi (now Catelli’s) Diavola’s (which means devilish in Italian) menu includes a selection of
antipasti (a seafood plate with squid, shrimp, mussels and clams; house made burrata; local tomatoes with gorgonzola and a vegetable plate) along with nine wood-fired pizzas that range from a simple zucchini flower and buffalo mozzarella ‘Margherita’ to a Ligurian clam and herb pizza or caper, anchovy and hot pepper pizza. The aptly-named Diavola pizza is topped with N’duja (a spicy Calabrian salami), arugula an Stracchino cheese.
For lunch, there are also salads and pannini, along with a full wine list featuring local and Italian wines.
Prepare for a bit of sticker shock. Prices for pizzas range from $$12.50 to a hefty $17 for the clam pizza — and we’re not talking 16-inchers here. Antipasti, like the house-cured prosciutto and seafood are priced between $12.75 and $14.75. It’s steep for an average pizzeria, but not out of line for the kind of quality and expertise that Bugica should be bringing to the table. I’ve long been a fan of his salumi, and frankly, for lardo pizza, BiteClub would be willing to pay, well, at least $14.
Diavola Pizzeria and Salumeria, 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707.814.0111. Open for lunch and dinner, 11:30am to 9pm Wednesday through Monday. Closed Tuesday.

Stir opens

By biteclub

Ready for a Hot Lips Cosmo? The revamped downtown cocktail club, Stir, thinks maybe you are. Located in the former Barcode space (404 Mendocino Ave.,), the new owners have come up with a list of specialty cocktails and a remodeled design for their July 3 opening.

The vibe, according to the new ower, will remain upscale cocktail chic, but with more seating, new lighting and a less stark color palette. So, what’s on the menu? They’ve come up with a handful of signature drinks for opening including the Hot Lips (a Cosmpolitan with a kick of chili); The Naked Lady (a vodka, mint and vanilla-flavored drink); Plum Crazy (a vodka and plum-flavored martini) and the Irish Cosmo (a Cosmo aimed toward the gents). Stir will also feature a wine list with small production wineries both local and outside the region. Stir, 404 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa

.… In other news, BiteClub has confirmed that Chef Preston Dishman is “transitioning” away from his post at The General’s Daughter in Sonoma. Dishman is a much-lauded chef who brought new life to the restaurant with his Wine Country meets Southern cookin’ style. UPDATE: Dishman says he’s hoping to stay local and has a few offers already. He’ll be at the General’s Daughter through July. His wife, who manages the restaurant’s front-of-the-house operations is also leaving. Does anyone smell a possible love match for John Ash, where Chef Madura recently departed?

…BiteClub’s got a bit of egg on her face after lauding the return of Chef Randy Lewis to Sonoma County. The former 707 and Popina chef was at Occidental’s Bistro des Copains for about six weeks before, well, leaving. Turns out the restaurant was taken a bit off-guard as well and will be naming a new chef shortly. Randy, who is apparently moving back to his old stomping grounds in New Orleans, will be continuing on as consulting chef and his menu and recipes will remain for the time being. Check out my gushing review online. Just ignore the parts about Randy.

…And even more chef shuffling. BiteClub has also confirmed that Chef Michael Ellis of Dry Creek Kitchen has resigned from his post. His replacement has not yet been named.

Bistro des Copains | Occidental

By biteclub


Bistro Des Copains
The tiny Bistro des Copains in Occidental is tops for Provencal bistro fare — rabbit terrine, buckwheat crepes, roasted duck, braised beef in red wine. Think classic French meets olives and tomatoes.
The menu involves a bit of trust for those of us who’ve gotten used to gushing California cuisine menus that explain every carrot and piece of lettuce in painstaking detail. Descriptions like “beef braised in red wine with garlic, onions, olive and carrots” don’t exactly tease the senses. Keep the faith, however.
A simple butter lettuce salad with tarragon mustard vinaigrette looks dull, but bursts with clean, sharp flavor. Assiette de Charcuterie ($12) is a wooden cutting board with a rustic rabbit terrine, seeded mustard, fresh bread and creamy jar of chicken liver mousse that prompted an outburst of such foodie ecstasy that McNibs got a momentary look of panic.
 
Bistro Des CopainsIt’s ever so thoughtful when neighboring tables get their entrees before you order. A glimpse of the Boeuf en Daube a la Provencale ($22) sealed the deal. The braised beef in its own cast iron pot falls to pieces when you all but look at it, having  spent hours chumming it up with red wine, garlic, onions and olives. The surprise co-star is a dish of mashed potatoes perfumed with herbes de Provence (lavender, rosemary, basil, thyme). A half-roasted Liberty duck ($24) doesn’t sound particularly exciting, but sitting in pool of buttery carrot sauce it’s finger-lickin’ good.
Treat yourself to a cone of pommes frites ($5.25) that come with their own tiny jar of aioli. You’ll be fighting over the mayo dip within seconds.
 
Dessert was the only let-down of the night. An apple tart with caramel sauce was pretty as a picture, but didn’t quite live up to expectations. The apples weren’t tart enough. The crust wasn’t quite buttery enough. The caramel — well, not quite caramel-y enough. It was good, just not great. Other desserts include a lavender creme brulee, chocolate pot de creme, and fresh berries.

Bistro Des Copains
Beef at Bistro Des Copains

The wine list is priced in line with the menu, featuring plenty of local wines and a $5 corking discount for Sonoma County wines. Skip right to the by-the-glass menu that offers great bistro-style wines from France and California in 3 and 6-ounce pours in glass carafes. With the noise level inside the crowded bistro sometimes reaching ear-splitting levels, it helps dull the hoots and cackles of annoying neighbors.
Heading out to Occidental can be a bit of a commitment, especially if you’re planning to have a glass of wine, but this inconspicuous cafe’s cooking makes any inconvenience well worth the trouble. Especially with a take-out box of chicken liver mousse to look forward to tomorrow.
Bistro des Copains, 3782 Bohemian Hwy, Occidental, 707.874.2436. Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5pm to 9pm, Friday and Saturday until 10pm. It can be hard to get through for reservations outside of dinner hours, so be patient. Same-day seating is usually possible, even on weekends. There’s a small deck for patio dining when nights warm up and Tuesday is Locals’ Night, with free corkage on Sonoma County wines.

John Ash chef leaving

By biteclub

…After 20 years at John Ash and Co., Executive Chef Jeffrey Madura is leaving the restaurant that once defined California cuisine.

According to the restaurant’s owners, Madura’s departure was prompted by health issues in his family and has no immediate plans to move to another kitchen. In his place, Tom Schmidt, a former Californian chef who most recently ran a restaurant in Bremen, Germany. Madura’s last day will be July 31.

Already there’s plenty of rumbling in the foodie community as to what this might mean for the restaurant’s long-term prospects as well as it’s relationship with namesake chef, John Ash. Time will tell. Stay tuned.

…In other news, if you’re a Cafe Japan fan (the jewel-box sushi spot in downtown Santa Rosa), you’ve got through Thurday, June 26 to get your fix. According to co-owner Jennifer Bessette, the restaurant will close for good this week. She and husband Yosuke Saito — both musicians and new parents — are moving on after their lease expires at the end of the month. Bessette told BiteClub the numbers just weren’t working out financially to support their family. The two hope to have another food-related business in the future, but don’t have any concrete plans at the moment.

The $5 Lunch

By biteclub

Time to tighten the money belt and suss out lunches with a slimmer economic profile. But hey, let's not get crazy. They've still got to taste, well, reasonably good. Brown bagging has never been my thing. Even in desperate times, it feel a bit kindergarten sitting in the lunchroom with a brown banana and leftovers.

But
as gas prices skyrocket, grocery bills soar and my paycheck seems to
shrink ever smaller, I’m beginning to eye the old lunch box with a
little more tenderness. Fingering through a week’s worth of food
receipts, it’s shocking to realize that $8 to $12 lunches are pretty
much the norm, and sushi splurges of $20 and up less than infrequent.
Ugh.

Time to tighten the money belt and suss out lunches with a slimmer economic profile. But hey, let’s not get crazy. They’ve still got to taste, well, reasonably good.

Here’s my list — along with a little help from my friends — of solid $5* and under meals
around the region. But hey, everybody’s got their fave. So add them
already and help save your fellow BiteClubbers a little cheddar.

Asian that’s fast, hot and oh so cheap
Lee’s Noodle House: Bahn mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) filled with beef, veggies and a few mysteries (of the pleasant sort).

Simply Vietnam: BBQ
pork spring rolls filled with noodles, lettuce, mint and pork come in
threes and are enough for a light lunch ($4.25). 966 North Dutton,
Santa Rosa, 707.566.8910.

Go Go Wok: Typical Asian fare,
but made to order rather than sitting on a steam table for hours on
end. Lunch specials are massive and easily feed two, so take a friend.
791 Marlow Rd # 4, Santa Rosa, (707) 575-8868

Ohana Hawaiian BBQ:
If you can’t splurge for the Kalua pork plate lunch ($6.50), you can
get a bowl of BBQ chick or grilled Spam Saimin (noodles) for $3.75.
2150 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 571.8882.

Mexican that makes your wallet say, Ole
Pupuseria Salvadorena:
Crispy Salvadorian corn cakes filled with cheese, beens and other
goodies are under $2 each and Yuca fries are a filling meal in
themselves for under $5.1403 Maple Ave, Santa Rosa, 544-3141

Subdjoe recommends the half pints of rice and refried beans, fruit and drink from the Latin grocer, Lola’s on Petaluma Hill Road, for under $5.

The cheese enchilada plate at Mexican-chain, Rubio’s, is $4.99 (before tax), and a favorite of Star.

Las Palmas is
a step up from the usual cheap Mexican fare, and a favorite of
BiteClub. The tacos al pastor ($1.99 each) are a best bet. Taqueria Las
Palmas, 415 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa, 707.546.3091.

Slice or weenie?
Ferrous digs the two slice and a drink deal from the Petaluma-based pizza chain Fregene’s
(160 Petaluma Boulevard North). Outposts are open in Cotati (554-B East
Cotati Avenue) and the recently-opened Sebastopol (789 Gravenstein Hwy
South) location.

Hot dogs are always a cheap eat, and Mattock recommends David’s Hot Dogs on the Windsor Green (near Powell’s) or Code 7 (177 Healdsburg Ave) in Healdsburg.

A one-piece lunch of fish and chips at Mel’s Fish & Chips comes in at $4.99. 1016 Hopper Ave., Santa Rosa, 578.1954

Burgers
Big Boys Buns & Burgers in Larkfield serves up a 1/3 pound fresh-made burger for just $4.95. 406 Larkfield Shopping Center, 546-6835.

Carl’s
Jr.: The only chain that gets a BiteClub seal of approval for their
buns–and I don’t mean the $6 burger, either. The plain old Famous Star
with cheese is the closest thing to homemade we’ve found.

* With tax, some of these lunches top out just over $5, so bring along some of that spare change from under your sofa cushions.

Stir

By biteclub
Stir opens

Ready for a Hot Lips Cosmo? The revamped downtown cocktail club, Stir, thinks maybe you are. Located in the former Barcode space (404 Mendocino Ave.,), the new owners have come up with a list of specialty cocktails and a remodeled design for their July 3 opening.

Ready for a Hot Lips Cosmo? The revamped downtown cocktail club, Stir,
thinks maybe you are. Located in the former Barcode space (404
Mendocino Ave.,), the new owners have come up with a list of specialty
cocktails and a remodeled design for their July 3 opening.

The
vibe, according to the new ower, will remain upscale cocktail chic, but
with more seating, new lighting and a less stark color palette. So,
what’s on the menu? They’ve come up with a handful of signature drinks
for opening including the Hot Lips (a Cosmpolitan with a kick of
chili); The Naked Lady (a vodka, mint and vanilla-flavored drink); Plum
Crazy (a vodka and plum-flavored martini) and the Irish Cosmo (a Cosmo
aimed toward the gents). Stir will also feature a wine list with small
production wineries both local and outside the region. Stir, 404 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa

.… In other news, BiteClub has confirmed that Chef Preston Dishman is “transitioning” away from his post at The General’s Daughter in
Sonoma. Dishman is a much-lauded chef who brought new life to the
restaurant with his Wine Country meets Southern cookin’ style. UPDATE:
Dishman says he’s hoping to stay local and has a few offers already.
He’ll be at the General’s Daughter through July. His wife, who manages
the restaurant’s front-of-the-house operations is also leaving. Does
anyone smell a possible love match for John Ash, where Chef Madura
recently departed?

…BiteClub’s got a bit of egg on her face after lauding the return of Chef Randy Lewis to Sonoma County. The
former 707 and Popina chef was at Occidental’s Bistro des Copains for
about six weeks before, well, leaving. Turns out the restaurant was
taken a bit off-guard as well and will be naming a new chef shortly.
Randy, who is apparently moving back to his old stomping grounds in New
Orleans, will be continuing on as consulting chef and his menu and
recipes will remain for the time being. Check out my gushing review
online. Just ignore the parts about Randy.

…And even more chef shuffling. BiteClub has also confirmed that Chef Michael Ellis of Dry Creek Kitchen has resigned from his post. His replacement has not yet been named.

News and gossip

By biteclub

…Lobster Shack Santa Rosa?
The popular Lobster Shack restaurant in Napa recently closed, but rumors are swirling that owners of the chain (with outposts in San Francisco and Redwood City) may be scoping out real estate in Santa Rosa. Nothing confirmed so far, but calls to the restaurants indicated that there may be some interest.

…Former Lolo’s chef Michael Quigley has recently landed at the Duck Club in Bodega Bay.

…More on Eloise at the former Bistro V space…I spoke with co-owner and chef Ginevra Iverson this morning who originally hails from Marin. The couple recently moved from New York with their young daughter and have been rehabbing the spot since April. Plans are to open in late Julywith what she’s calling a Southern French-Mediterranean-Farmhouse menu. The couple are classically trained, but want the feel of the spot to be very easy-going and community-based. They’re already reaping sorrell, lettuce, tomatoes and fruit from the backyard garden they’ve been working on. More to come.

…Worth our Weight, Santa Rosa’s culinary apprenticeship program recently moved into the former Chippery space behind O’Sake in Santa Rosa.

…The former Seaweed restaurant in Bodega Bay has reopened as Terrapin Creek Check out the menu here: http://www.terrapincreekcafe.com/menu.html

…Just in case you hadn’t heard, Sassafrass restaurant’s Jack Mitchell plans to open a restaurant and whiskey bar in Railroad Square (at the former Capri space) later this year called Jack and Tony’s.

…Reader call out: A reader recently asked if BiteClub knew about a bakery serving “Lobster Tails”, a pastry filled with whipped cream. If you’re in the know, let us know.

Seed

By biteclub

As a confirmed meat and dairy-lover, I’ve been fascinated by the idea of Seed — a raw foods vegan restaurant, which opened in the former Cafe Saint Rose space. I thought, however, it might be more fitting for one of my colleagues — a devoted vegan– to be the first to check out this new eatery for BiteClub. Many of you have been asking about it, so here’s the scoop from online producer Katy Lieber.

The North Bay’s meat-free-set have a new place to rave about in Santa Rosa thanks to the addition of Seed, a month-old vegan restaurant on Sebastopol Avenue.

The 7-table restaurant, on the east side of Highway 101, offers a menu completely void of meat and dairy–ravioli “flowers” made with macadami nuts, sausage pizza made wtith nut cheese and even a brownie sundae. In addition to the lack of meat and cheese, everything on the menu is organic and most is raw and wheat free.

Vegan owner and chef Jeri Hastey opened restaurant because she was simply hungry. “There aren’t a lot of options for vegans,” she said. After many years as a vegetarian, she became a vegan a year ago, inspired by one of her five children. But the food lover found there weren’t many places for her to eat out.

Her menu, which includes everything from nachos to her version of the “Frito Boat” (chili, cheese and chips) has been warmly received by vegans and nonvegans alike.

“I’m honestly surprised how welcome I have been made to feel in the vegan community,” and said news of the restaurant has spread mainly through word of mouth.

The menu is full of vegan versions of familiar dishes including burgers, pizza and egg salad. Desserts include cheesecake, key lime pie and a brownie sundae with caramel.

Popular items, according to Jeri, include a corn and red bell pepper tostada ($14) and sloppy seed ($10.50), a vegan version of sloppy joe’s and a stuffed mushroom appetizer topped with zucchini hummus ($8).

A longtime vegan and macadamia nut fan, I sampled the ravioli flower, macadamia raviolis with tomato basil marinara served with brushetta crackers and caesar salad ($13). It was light and filling. My dessert, chosen with the help of my server, a chocolate caramel pie ($6.50) was rich, chocolately and delicious.

Jeri formerly ran a healing center in Sacramento and trained with a raw-food chef in Austin, Texas before opening Seed. Her many repeat customers keep her motivated and happy despite long hours as the solo chef.

“I have a lot of customers who come back six, seven, eight, 12 times.”

Seed: 463 Sebastopol Avenue, Santa Rosa. 707-546-7333. Open Wednesday through Saturday 11 am – 9 pm and Sunday for brunch 10 am-2 pm. Also, to-go food available next door.

Seed

By biteclub

CLOSED
As a confirmed meat and dairy-lover, I’ve been fascinated by the
idea of Seed — a raw foods vegan restaurant, which opened in the
former Cafe Saint Rose space. I thought, however, it might be more
fitting for one of my colleagues — a devoted vegan– to be the first
to check out this new eatery for BiteClub. Many of you have been asking
about it, so here’s the scoop from online producer Katy Lieber.
The North Bay's meat-free-set have a new place to rave about in Santa Rosa thanks to the addition of Seed, a month-old vegan restaurant on Sebastopol Avenue.
The North Bay’s meat-free-set have a new place to rave about in
Santa Rosa thanks to the addition of Seed, a month-old vegan restaurant
on Sebastopol Avenue.
The 7-table restaurant, on the east side
of Highway 101, offers a menu completely void of meat and
dairy–ravioli “flowers” made with macadami nuts, sausage pizza made
wtith nut cheese and even a brownie sundae. In addition to the lack of
meat and cheese, everything on the menu is organic and most is raw and
wheat free.
Vegan owner and chef Jeri Hastey opened restaurant
because she was simply hungry. “There aren’t a lot of options for
vegans,” she said. After many years as a vegetarian, she became a vegan
a year ago, inspired by one of her five children. But the food lover
found there weren’t many places for her to eat out.
Her menu,
which includes everything from nachos to her version of the “Frito
Boat” (chili, cheese and chips) has been warmly received by vegans and
nonvegans alike.
“I’m honestly surprised how welcome I have
been made to feel in the vegan community,” and said news of the
restaurant has spread mainly through word of mouth.
The menu
is full of vegan versions of familiar dishes including burgers, pizza
and egg salad. Desserts include cheesecake, key lime pie and a brownie
sundae with caramel.
Popular items, according to Jeri,
include a corn and red bell pepper tostada ($14) and sloppy seed
($10.50), a vegan version of sloppy joe’s and a stuffed mushroom
appetizer topped with zucchini hummus ($8).
The North Bay's meat-free-set have a new place to rave about in Santa Rosa thanks to the addition of Seed, a month-old vegan restaurant on Sebastopol Avenue.
A longtime vegan and macadamia nut fan, I sampled the ravioli
flower, macadamia raviolis with tomato basil marinara served with
brushetta crackers and caesar salad ($13). It was light and filling. My
dessert, chosen with the help of my server, a chocolate caramel pie
($6.50) was rich, chocolately and delicious.
Jeri formerly ran a
healing center in Sacramento and trained with a raw-food chef in
Austin, Texas before opening Seed. Her many repeat customers keep her
motivated and happy despite long hours as the solo chef.
“I have a lot of customers who come back six, seven, eight, 12 times.”
Seed:
463 Sebastopol Avenue, Santa Rosa. 707-546-7333. Open Wednesday through
Saturday 11 am – 9 pm and Sunday for brunch 10 am-2 pm. Also, to-go
food available next door.

Taylor’s Refresher

By biteclub

You’ll find most of Wine Country gathered for burgers and wine at this beloved St. Helena outdoor walk-up. Lines can stretch for blocks as folks queue for top-notch burgs, salads, fries and shakes.

Don’t miss the Western Bacon Blue Ring burger or sweet potato fries. The rare Ahi tuna burger with wasabi mayo and slaw is another fave. And don’t even get us started on the fish tacos.

Another outpost has opened in the town of Napa and you’ll find a third Taylor’s at the Ferry Building in San Francisco. Could world domination be next?

Taylor's Refresher on Urbanspoon