Whoopie Pies

whoopie.jpgMove over cupcakes. The darling of the pastry-set these days are Whoopie Pies, a less precious, more lunchbox-friendly marriage of cake and cream.

Last week, the New York Times broadcast the trend that purports to have its roots either in Pennsylvania’s Amish Country (well known for tasty fare that can hold you through a barn-raising) or New England. No one is really sure.

The current appeal is clearly the pie’s working-class roots. Some say the name stems from the exclamation of “Whoopie!” from happy farmers who found the cream sandwiches in their lunches. Nor’easterners are also familiar with these mushy, smushy, delicious cookies stocked in corner delis and gas stations as comforting snack fare. There’s also the nostalgia factor as anyone who had (or wished they had) a Little Debbie Oatmeal cream cookie stashed into their brown bag can remember.

As the Whoopie comes into its own, clever pastry chefs are leaving behind simple chocolate or vanilla cake and Crisco filling for flavors like pumpkin and fresh buttercream fillings. Kind of like what we’ve seen happen to cupcakes (for the better, of course).

So delight in the dunkable, dippable, finger-licking wonderful pleasures of childhood once more. You trend-setter, you.

And if you’re wondering, yes, the Whoopie is a close relation of the
Southern Moon Pie — made with graham crackers and marshmallow, then
covered with chocolate. Albeit a slightly simpler cousin.

Available locally at Oliver’s Market in Santa Rosa.

Know where else to get a good Whoopie? Let BiteClubbers know!

Sizzling Tandoor

Butter chicken beats tikka hands down. Extensive menu can sometimes be overwhelming. Regional specialties are worth checking out. Live entertainment adds fun. Lunch buffet is fine, but not extraordinary.
409 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, (707) 579-5999
www.sizzlingtandoorindianrestaurant.com

Artisan Cheese Festival

cheesy.jpgAging like a fine cheddar, Petaluma’s Artisan Cheese Festival turns three this year, adding even more depth and flavor to the four-day festival of dairy deliciousness.

The annual gathering draws artisan fromagers Northern California and Oregon and their fans for a weekend of non-stop chatting and chewing about the wonders hand-crafted cheese. Which is actually pretty fascinating (and reaaaally fragrant), considering that the North Coast is where some of the country’s best cheese is being made these days.

Tickets are all but sold out, though a handful remain if you’re just dying to get your slice on. You can also participate a la carte, heading to one of several area restaurants hosting cheesemaker dinners on Friday night or mingling around Sunday’s Artisan Cheese Marketplace (advance tickets are recommended, or you can just take your chances and show up).

BiteClub will be there for the duration, first cut to final slice, so stay tuned for updates. Meanwhile, if you’re inclined to participate, here’s how the weekend rolls. Get your knife and crackers ready…

– Friday Night Dine Around: Zazu, Syrah, Zin, Restaurant Eloise, Della Fattoria, Cucina Paradiso and Central Market will all host special cheese-centric dinners in honor of the festival on Friday night only. Click here for the list, as well as how to make a reservation.

Saturday: Seminar central. Some top picks include; Strong Cheese and Stout Brews with cheese gal Sheana Davis; Traveling the Oregon Cheese Trail with David Gremmels of Rogue Creamery;  the New Artisan Food Landscape with Steve Sando (Rancho Gordo), Taylor Boetticher of Fatted Calf and a host of others. More info on the seminars.

Artisan Gala dinner with John Ash, Duskie Estes (Zazu), Josh Silvers (Syrah) and others. Buy Tickets ($170).

Sunday: Artisan Cheese Marketplace. Eat. Drink. Eat. A wonderland for food lovers.

Monday: Creamery Field Trips. Head out to meet up with the folks who make cheese.

JUST THE FACTS:
When: March 20-23 2009
Where: Sheraton Sonoma County Petaluma, 745 Baywood Drive, (707) 283-2888  

Need to do a little pre-cheese homework?
Culture Magazine is the skin mag for cheese-philes: Informative articles and glossy close-ups that’ll have you licking the pages. Alone. At night. More info: culturecheesemag.com/

Clark Wolf’s American Cheeses
I’ve been woefully behind in talking about this amazing book by SoCo’s own Clark Wolf. A funny and fascinating storyteller who’s got the chops to know what he’s talking about, Wolf weaves together stories of his own life along with vignettes about the cheesemakers from coast to coast. Definite required reading. Can I grow up to be you, Clark? Find out more.


Press Democrat Newsroom from Santa Rosa, CA:
BiteClub gets knee-deep in cheese; artisan cheese festival; biteclub; Petaluma; It isn’t what you think it is – true ‘schmaltz’ is a key ingredient in the Jewish kitchen. ; Jewish cooking; Making fried chicken and dumplings at the duck club; cooking fried chicken; Videos on food, wine, lifestyle and the restaurant round-up in Wine Country



Corned Beef

cornedbeef.jpg

Despite my Irish(ish) heritage, the annual St. Patrick’s Day corned beef adventure is one that I have, so far, avoided at all costs. Like a lot of other folks, wearing green, imbibing in stout beer and Irish coffee is about as Mac-involved as I really care to be. The Irish, let’s face it, aren’t usually known for their culinary prowess and if we’re being honest here, boiling meat within an inch of its life is not my idea of good eats. 
Quaint and authentic yes. Delish? Not usually. Just pass the scones and oatmeal and we’ll call it good.
But here’s the thing: Corned beef is a uniquely American food steeped in history (along with pickling spices, but more on that later). It’s the culinary match that could only be made in New York, the lovechild of Jewish immigrants’ plentiful kosher beef brisket and Irish immigrants’ love of salty, boiled meats. Throw in a little cabbage, some pickling spices and potatoes and what we think of as Boiled Dinner (or Corned Beef and Cabbage) was born. In fact, so American was this invention that Abraham Lincoln served it as his inauguration and millions still consume it as a right of spring.*
So, how to do it right? 

Continue reading “Corned Beef”

First Look: Rendez Vous Bistro

Eager eaters are already packing downtown SR’s newest French bistro, chomping to see what former Emile’s Creekside chef Emile Waldteufel has up his sleeve. After an extensive overhaul, it’s an amazing space dominated by a large wood bar and a sunny Left Bank vibe.The menu is tres Parisian fare: from onion soup and escargot to Steak Frites, Sole Meuniere and Boeuf Bourginon.
But stakes are high in this crowded field which includes contenders like K&L Bistro, Chloe’s, Mirepoix and nearby Bistro 29 which have already proven their mettle. At first blush there’s still some translation getting lost — ho-hum frites, crackle-free creme brulee and some so-so sauces.
The good news: Service is spot-on, the location is great and with a bit of menu tightening, Rendez-Vous could end up a downtown classic, especially for late-nighters (they’ll be open until midnight). The restaurant will open for morning croissants and coffee, along with a full lunch menu starting next week. 614 4th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 526-7700.

Santi coming to Santa Rosa

santi.jpgSanti coming to Santa Rosa
BiteClub got it straight from Santi owner Doug Swett that a lease is in the works for the Geyserville Restaurant to move lock, stock and barrel to Fountaingrove Village next fall. The popular Italian trattoria will neighbor Traverso’s, leaving behind it’s casual pizzeria sibling, Diavola, up north. Swett plans to keep his regional Italian menu and chef, Liza Hinman, but is looking forward to daily lunches and later nights at the new location on Stagecoach Road.

Smokin’ in Windsor
Chef Rudy Mihal of Odyssey Restaurant is thinking ribs and brisket. While working for Chef Daniel Boulud a few years ago, Mihal tells BiteClub that he used to spend his off days working with an old Southern BBQ maestro. He’s bringing that ‘q’ love to his Windsor restaurant, smoking up pulled pork and braised greens while keeping many of his menu classics. A new project in the works? “I’m just doing the stuff I love for possible future endeavors.”  426 Emily Rose Cir., Windsor, (707) 836-7600.

Bistro 29 changing owners?
When “Change of Ownership” sign went up last week, BiteClub called to find out what’s up with the year-old French Bistro in downtown Santa Rosa. Never fear, your buckwheat crepes are safe. Chef Brian says all is well and that he and his wife are merely becoming a corporation, hence the public notice. The couple are continuing their 3-course dinners for $29. 620 5th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 546-2929. 

Whiskey A Go-Go

whiskey.jpgTell me what you drink and I’ll tell you what you are — or at least what you think you are, to rip off the sentiments of Brilliant Savarin. And though we may drink for the very purpose of forgetting, at least for a few hours what we are, our spirits of choice are like a loudspeaker to the soul.


Take whiskey, if you dare. At its core, this ancient mash is little more than distilled beer. The very essence of humble grains, whiskey (or Bourbon or Scotch as it’s also known), is the beverage of fathers, uncles and tweedy English professors. Not the Junior League.

Which may be exactly why it holds such a fascination. Anything but the sweet and syrupy-sippers so easily tippled from a martini glass, whiskies are is contemplative beverages that require a bit of reflection to enjoy properly. Properly. Guzzling it backstage is an entirely different beast.

Serious whiskey drinkers appreciate their beverage on the rocks (with ice) or with a slight dillution of water to release their aroma and, well, not leave you choking on the fumes. With proofs ranging from 80 to 110 (and more), it’s a prudent way to enjoy.

But aside from Jack and Cokes, most of us aren’t real clear on exactly what we’re drinking. 

Continue reading “Whiskey A Go-Go”

El Puente Cantina Santa Rosa

Birria is a traditional Mexican soup usually served on weekends (shutterstock)
Birria is a traditional Mexican soup usually served on weekends (shutterstock)

Number 42 on my ongoing must-eat list: birria, a Mexican meat stew usually made with lamb or goat. Along with pozole and menudo, it’s one-dish comfort food that attracts the same kind of dedicated followers you find face-first in a bowl of pho or homemade chicken noodle soup.
One of a handful of restaurants that reliably serve up this homey standard, along with an impressive list of cantina classics, is the unfortunately-located El Puente Cantina on Santa Rosa Ave. Backed by a freeway off-ramp and wedged next to Denny’s and a gas station, it takes a bit of muster to walk in off the street.
But for the hungry souls who venture in and it seems to be quite a few of you, judging from recent comments, El Puente’s cocina-style cooking (and full bar) is a welcome antidote to grubby taquerias and fast-food nachos.
With an eye toward regional home-cooking, most of El Puente’s dishes are simple — homey chilaquiles for breakfast, tostadas, carnitas, tamales and burritos along with heartier entrees like Chicken Mole, Camarones A La Diabla and weekend menudo.
Slightly more upscale are house favorites Chile Colorado, thin strips of pork in a rich red chili sauce (and also mine), along with meaty fajitas that come steaming to the table in a cloud of smoke and garlic. If you’re guilding the lily, try the Mojarra Entera Frita, a whole fried fish with tortillas.
Most dishes are solid renditions, served efficiently by friendly staff. Chiles Rellenos, sadly, don’t stand up to nearby Las Palmas’, but El Puente steals the show with their creamy, rich refried beans — a usually dismal side.
As an admitted newbie to the Mexican table, I’ll leave final judgments to more experienced tortilla-eaters. But now, at least you know where to get a solid margarita and that bowl of elusive birria — which by the way, is still on my list.
El Puente Cantina, 1709 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.569.0988. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Zazu Restaurant: Can’t miss farm to feast classic in Sebastopol

zazu restaurant in sebastopol

Zazu’s Restaurant and Farm’s husband and wife chef team, John Stewart and Duskie Estes, are the poster children for Sonoma County’s farm-to-table dining scene.
In fact, you’ll often see Duskie picking fresh herbs from the planter boxes on the restaurant patio, and the menu pulls from many of their Black Pig Meat Co. artisan pork and charcuterie. In the summer, tomatoes come from their own gardens or those of friends, and they’re Slow Food celebs, making all of their food with intent and purpose.
California-Italian with occasional nods to the South — but depends heavily on local, seasonal produce.
The wine list leans toward many affordable, rising star local wines that you won’t find elsewhere. There’s also a full bar with creative cocktails (yes, some actually have bacon as a starring flavor) along with a late-night scene until 11p.m. Brunch is spectacular.
Think you’ve seen Duskie before? Yep, she’s been on several Food Network shows.
Zazu Restaurant + Farm, 6770 McKinley St. in the Barlow, Sebastopol. Open M, W, TH for dinner, Friday and Saturday for lunch and dinner and Sunday from 9a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Tuesday. 707-523-4814, online at zazukitchen.com.