Syrah takes over Mixx

Syrah owner Josh Silvers has just closed a deal to take over the former Mixx space in Railroad Square. After months of speculation about who might go into the vacant restaurant but Silvers tells BiteClub that construction and renovations have begun. Named Jackson’s Bar & Oven, plans are for affordable dining with a focus on the wood-burning stove — pizza, pasta, burgers, hot dogs, hangar steaks. Of course with Josh’s Cal-Ital-French flair. “We’re even thinking about doing buckets of chicken wings…stuff you just don’t see a lot of in Santa Rosa,” says Josh’s business partner and wife, Regina.

 “We have wanted that space for a long time. It just never made sense before and now it’s falling into place perfectly,” she tells BiteClub. They plan to open the restaurant (named for their son) early next year.

That should be about the time that nearby Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whiskey Bar opens for business. Plans were delayed for the opening slated for this fall and owners say it may be December (or so) before they’re officially ready for business.

Juicy news

BiteClub’s finally gotten word on the whereabouts of former General’s Daughter chef Preston Dishman. After hunting around Sonoma and Napa for the right gig without luck, Preston and his wife will be heading to San Mateo. Dishman will be the new executive chef of Viognier, owned by the Draeger family. Though we’re sad to see Wine Country lose such a talent, BiteClub wishes our favorite Southern boy well.

Meanwhile, after a quick rebab of the General’s Daughter, Sondra Bernstein of the Girl & the Fig has opened Estate, a restaurant focused on regional Italian cuisine and festive drinking. Check out the menu here.

Chefs Josh Silvers and Mark Malicki will be headed to Terra Madre in late October. It’s a huge honor for local chefs to be attending this worldwide convention of Slow Food enthusiasts in Torino, Italy. We can’t wait to hear how it goes. Meanwhile, Zin’s Jeff Mall is headed to the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Hopefully Josh will have some big news to announce before his trip. Hopefully.

Finally, if you haven’t been following the drama over at Rendezvous, check out the recent news stories about their fight with the city over garbage. What a stink!

Carlos Country Kitchen

carlos.jpgIn my book, the perfect antidote to early morning activity (ie: a 3k “Fun” Run) has to be home fries and scrambled eggs. WIth a side of bacon and Diet Pepsi.

Now, before you go calling the food police, hear me out. Greasy spoon diners like Carlos’ Country Kitchen are like ice cream and D’Affinois: A sometimes treat when you’ve been very, very good. What could be better than huffing and puffing up a hill for charity at 8am on Sunday morning then rewarding yourself for all that hard work? And don’t say oatmeal.

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Gary’s at the Belvedere

With the facade of a stately Victorian manor and the soul of a chain-smoking, cocktail swirling 20-something, The Belvedere is one of Santa Rosa’s most beloved contradictions. And I mean that with love.
Anchoring the northwest corner of Mendocino Avenue’s Tipsy Triangle (including the 440 Club and Round Robin) the Belvedere looks more like a bed and breakfast than a bar. Which may explain its cache and a weekend hangout.
But ask about the restaurant and you’ll get puzzled looks. “They serve food?” In fact, they do.
It’s been an on-again off-again affair. Several years ago, attempts at a
high-end restaurant failed. Then nothing. Then Gary’s at the Belvedere
reopened with more modest ambitions — burger, salads and sports bar
fare. Steaks. Man-eats for the downstairs crowd.
Served Monday through Friday, the lunch menu is
simple: Burgers, steak sandwiches, Caesar salads and various
adaptations of the aforementioned. Salads with steak. Wraps with salad.
Infinite burger combinations involving bacon, barbecue sauce, mushrooms
and cheese.
Best bet is the burger, though you’ll have to suspend judgment about the puck-shaped disc of grilled chuck and cafeteria-like fries Though I’d lay bets that both
recently did some hard time in the big chiller, the grilled onion blue
cheese burger wasn’t half bad. In fact, it was a lot better than some
bloody awful burgers I’ve recently had the misfortune of eating. No,
the onions weren’t as caramelized as I’d like, but the buns were nicely
toasted and the presentation thoughtful, especially while sitting on
the wrap-around porch watching the world go by.
It’s a big, fat meal
for $11.99 (including a drink).
Dinner features some of the same appetizers and salads with the
addition of steaks and pasta. I’ll let you, dear readers, have that
adventure with managed expectations. Featuring 40 beers, a full bar, five pool tables and a smoker-friendly porch you
could do a whole lot worse than an afternoon or evening with front-row
seats to the crossroads of Santa Rosa.
And I mean that with love.
Gary’s at the Belvedere, 727 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.542.8705
(restaurant), 707.542.1890 (bar). Open for lunch Mon-Fri from 11am to
2pm, Dinner Mon-Sun, 5pm to 10pm.
PS: After this, no more burgers for a while. Promise. I’m done.

Bistro 29 | Santa Rosa

Bistro 29 Santa Rosa

Bistro 29 Santa Rosa
On those days when goofy gastronomic acrobatics just aren’t in the cards, I want food that is soul-satisfyingly good. I go to restaurants where I can count on the kitchen for a meal that feeds every part of me. Bistro 29 is one of those places.
Former Lolo’s chef Brian Anderson is at the helm of this cozy Santa Rosa bistro that specializes in food from the Brittany region of France. So, while you’ll likely recognize much of the bistro-y French fare, there’s an earthy warmth to the cuisine that reflects this coastal Northwestern nob of France.

Bistro 29 Santa Rosa
French onion soup at Bistro 29

Buckwheat crepes are a signature dish but the kitchen has proven adept at bistro classics as well. This is classic beret-and-Gauloise fare: steak frites, steamed mussels, crepes and a crunchy, decadent Croque Madame that’s as comforting as a quilted blanket on a cold night. Think of it as the gold-standard of grilled cheese sandwiches — a thick slice of bread covered with ham, Gruyere, and a fried egg. Gild the lily with a side of crispy frites and mayonnaise (never ketchup!). The Monsieur is capped with Mornay sauce.
Don’t miss Brian’s Soupe des Johnnies, an onion cider soup with bits of crispy buckwheat crepes and melted Gruyere ($6 cup). It’s loaded with onions and the cider gives a sweet tang.
A great by-the glass wine list and weekly prix fixe specials make it a spot to return again and again.
bistro 29: 620 Fifth Street, Santa Rosa, 707 546-2929

Dogged: Hot dog adventures

hotdog.jpgUPDATED: Though it’s hardly a newsflash, the Bay Area just isn’t known for its hot dog culture. Outside of backyard barbecues, Brats, foot-longs and chili dogs were almost unheard of if you traveled north of Modesto or west of, well, Chicago. Maybe it’s the fact that sauerkraut and relish can be so darned hard to pair with wine.

But we’re evolving. Though Wine Country doesn’t even register among the top hot dog consuming spots (New York is, not surprisingly number one with LA coming in second) more and more doggeries are popping up around the county to the delight of foot-long aficionados, New York transplants and, oddly enough, local chefs who are among their most devoted fans. Go figure.

Top Dog: Taps
If for no other reason than the 30-plus beers on tap and their heart-stopping fried bacon dog (with mayo), this Petaluma newcomer gets a howl-out. Housed in the former Petaluma Hotel courtyard, the spot is still trying to figure out if its a sports bar (flat-screen tvs dominate the wall above the bar along with some good-natured rowdiness on Sunday) or a family restaurant (with plenty of stroller-setters as well). The menu of specialty dogs (BLT, Seattle dog with sauerkraut, cream cheese and mustard, Reuben and Buffalo), Italian sausage and steak sandwiches match the hoppy-heavy selection of craft brews. Fries are standard-fare, but bonus points of small-production root beers for non-drinkers. 205 Kentucky Street (beneath the historic Petaluma Hotel), Petaluma, 763-6700. Open daily.

Roy’s Chicago Doggery
Folks got a little concerned when Mike’s left the Petaluma stockyard. The french fry-free burger institution, however, begat one of the county’s best hot dog spots, serving up Chicago-style Vienna dogs with serious fixins, from kraut and mustard to the Windy City classic of peppers, onions, celery salt and relish, to chili dogs and, of course, the famous Home Wrecker, a 12-inch half-pounder loaded with toppings that dares you to even try. And fries. Glorious fries. 84 Corona Rd, Petaluma, 774-1574. Closed Sunday.
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100 Things to Eat

100.jpgA British foodie recently came up with 100 things every Omnivore should eat before dying. What to try is so subjective, but the list is a fun start. I’ve crossed out what I’ve eaten and left blank the one’s I’ve yet to try. I can tell you I’m no rushing out for roadkill anytime soon.

Many of the foods are available locally without much looking. Others are more of a challenge (like Black Pudding, which I actually had at Oliveto). What would be on your 100?
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Cafe Gratitude | Healdsburg

 

Cafe Gratitude Healdsburg
Salad at Cafe Gratitude in Healdburg

CLOSED
 
With the aid of dehydrators, pressers and endless creativity  the folks at vegan and raw-foods friendly Cafe Gratitude in Healdsburg approximate nachos, cheese, yogurt, pizza and burritos along with a menu of other health-inducing concoctions free of, well, just about anything bad for you.
The Healdsburg location is the latest offshoot of the vegan/raw/self-empowerment kitchen that has won fans in San Francisco, Berkeley and San Rafael.
So, deep breaths. You order by stating an affirmation that synchs with a menu item. I Am Passionate=marinara pizza. I Am Present=Caprese salad.  The server confirms your affirmation when delivering the dish: You are Passionate.You are Thankful. You are Honoring. It’s hard not to feel like You Are An Idiot.
 
Best bets for the uninitiated: I Am Abundant sampler plate ($15). This share-worthy plate includes “live” crackers, hummus, olive tapenade, a mini-bowl of soup, a live spring roll, and “nachos”. It’s a tasty way to dip your toe into raw foods. Expect lots of chewiness, rough textures and stuff stuck in your molars for the entire meal.
My willing food assistant  and I also gave the thumbs up to I Am Graceful ($12.50), a bowl of quinoa and fresh veggies with a spicy coconut Thai sauce. Also tasty are I Am Fruitful lassis with coconut yogurt ($8.50)
Cafe Gratitude desserts
Desserts shine at Cafe Gratitude

Skip the I Am Elated Special Enchilada of the Day ($15) unless you’re up for a full-on
assault of your taste buds. The combination of sprouted seeds, salsa and
cashew sour cream don’t quite work. It’s sharp, acidic and hard to get down. A vegan pal confirmed that this dish wasn’t a winner with her, either.
Desserts are where Gratitude shines. A single slice of key lime pie (I Am Awakening, $7.50) with a macadamia-pecan crust was rich, creamy and filling. Chocolate mint treats were a bit less impressive ($5) with odd, gritty green stuff in the middle that didn’t benefit from warming up in the car. Ack.
The lunch and dinner menu are the same and a meal can get into the stratosphere quickly: I spent a whopping $90 on lunch for two. Keep in mind that the preparation of raw
Cafe Gratitude Healdsburg interior
Cafe Gratitude interiorfoods is time-intensive and labor-intensive. You can also order much less than you think you might need -- the portions are filling.

Gratitude is in some ways the anti-Healdsburg with its communal tables and crunchy aesthetic. And in other ways (like the hefty pricetag) so very Healdsburg. Its eco-consciousness and healthy, body-friendly menu clearly have appeal for the spa-set.
When it comes to Gratitude’s feel good ethos, you’ll either warm up to it immediately, go in for the novelty once or twice or run screaming toward a slab of bacon. Whatever your choice, I Am Supportive.  Just don’t ask me to eat cashew sour cream again.
Cafe Gratitude, 206 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707.723.4462.
 

Stop eating out? Forget it.

broke.jpgBiteClubClub is feeling the pinch, as are many restaurant owners around the North Bay. You may have noticed that my coverage of new restaurants has all but fallen off the map — opening has become almost impossible. Even for longtime restauranteurs, getting credit is a laughable endeavor. I spent most of last month lamenting to myself about how bad things seem to be.

But stop eating out? Please. Check out some of my recent favorite cheap eats and weigh in on what you won’t live without (no matter how bad things get.) I just gotta rant on this one…

Continue reading “Stop eating out? Forget it.”