Well, it appears the cat is out of the bag…
Yes, Cyrus chef Douglas Keane is working on a steakhouse concept for Healdsburg in the former Cena Luna space. Keane’s been scoping out real estate for a while now. The Cena Luna space has been dark for weeks, though its been unclear to everyone exactly what’s been going on. Several days ago, the answering machine insisted that the restaurant would reopen, and the tables are all still set.
A number of high profile chefs have apparently been eyeing the spot, located just a stone’s throw from the Cyrus crew’s other spot, Healdsburg Bar and Grill. Which brings up the caveat: The deal’s still not been inked, which is why I kept things mum for the time being. Keane said he’s hoping to finalize things today.
Fabulous Frickle Brothers
Billing themselves at the World’s Greatest High Frying Act, pickle fryers Patrick Mace and John Corazzini (aka The Fabulous Frickle Brothers) were the talk of Petaluma’s Rivertown Revival last weekend. Inspired by fave Southern specialty, fried pickle chips, the two have put a decidedly West Coast spin on their batter-dipped dills using a combination of panko, tempura and Lagunitas ale at local events.
According to Mace, the chips were inspired by trips he made to North Carolina while working for Lagunitas. “,I ate fried pickles at different locations and was possessed in trying everyone’s interpretations. I told friends back home of this and they looked at me kinda weird,” he said.
Weird isn’t the half of it. Maces says people on the West Coast are sometimes a little afraid of the Frickles (a mashup of “fried” and “pickles”) but almost always come around. “I sample a lot at festivals. I would say 95% of the people love them. Most order a tray.”
The clincher? Send the chips for a dip into Straus-yogurt dips that come in delish flavors like plum curry, cucumber, garlic mint, honey mustard and blue cheese cayenne.
“I’m waiting on a Frickle movie or President Obama to start eating them like Reagan’s jelly beans,” Mace said.
Hungry? In addition to the pickles, the Bros. will also be serving fried green tomatoes off their Frickle wagon at upcoming festivals including the Petaluma Music Festival on August 7, the Cotati Accordian Festival on August 21-22 and on Sept. 11 a the Kendall Jackson Heirloom Tomato Festival.
Fair Food Scramble 2010 Results
There’s nothing that brings together strangers like a table full of deep-fat fried, sugary, chocolate-coated, barbecued and batter-coated foods. Except maybe indigestion and a week of caloric regret.
That’s the idea behind the second annual Fair Food Scramble, in which seven participants were given $20 each to scramble for their favorite eats from the Sonoma County Fair.
The still-sizzling windfall was collected at a communal picnic table and everyone shared in the bounty, ultimately naming this year’s Fair Food Winners. That’s $140 worth of food if you’re keeping track. Calorie-counting is an automatic disqualification. Using your fingers, accidental double-dipping and sharing bites comes with the territory.
This year’s Scramblers were selected from dozens of entries submitted to BiteClub. On the roster: BBQ-lover Scott Minaker, an engineer from Fulton (“I see food, I eat it.”); senior food adviser, Ron Reynolds (and wife Merrillee) of Rohnert Park who claims he’s been coming to the Sonoma County Fair since before he was born; adventurous eater Marlene Hudson, a freelance Spanish interpreter from Santa Rosa; funnel cake aficionado Amy Leyack, a Santa Rosa-based executive recruiter; 10-year-old food critic Logan Bello; St. Helena kindergarten teacher Robin Robert and life-long fair food enthusiast Glen Schaezlein.
Why do they do it? “Fair food is such memorable food and you only get it once a year. But your stomach is only so big, so you have to make some decisions,” Robert said. So consider it a public service of sorts.
Having learned a thing or two after last year’s inaugural Fair Food Scramble, elastic-waist pants and plenty of napkins were the order of the day. “You need a buffet-sized shirt here,” said Leyack. “And even then we’ll probably fill it out.”
Over two hours as much food as humanly possible was tasted, debated, re-tasted, re-debated and ultimately ranked. Here are the results.
Best Overall Savory Food: Johnny Garlic’s pork sliders. As cute as they are delicious, these mini pulled pork sandwiches come with a sweet, savory sauce and slaw under a fluffy micro-bun. Totally money.
Runner Up: Bubba’s Barbecue ribs were a very close second to the sliders, with several Scramblers pleading the case for the sweet sauce and smoky meat that made for some seriously good eats.
Best Overall Sweet Food: “It’s a deep-fried plate of love,” said Amy Leyack of our almost unanimous sweet favorite, the strawberry, whipped cream funnel cake from Pennsylvania Dutch Funnel Cakes.
Best Classic: Willie Bird’s smoked turkey leg is a fair favorite, and for good reason. Even though you look like a Flintstone character while eating it, it’s plenty big for sharing and packed with dark, rich leg meat that’ll keep you fueled up for hours.
Best Group Eat: There are two rules about eating Big Jim’s curly fries. Eat them piping hot, and find as many people as possible to share them. The massive brick of fried spuds is perfect for group-feeds. Toss on some salt and don’t forget a couple squirts of ketchup.
Kid favorite: Forget eating around the edges. Logan Bello dove right into the middle of a mini-apple pie from Mom’s, then proceeded to eat his way to the edges. “This rocked!” he said.
Favorite veggie: Roasted corn covered with mayonnaise, parmesan, salt and pepper from Señor Carlos. Skip the mayonnaise and you’ve got a healthy snack. Leave it on for one that tastes like a slice of summer.
Healthy Fave: One of last year’s favorite dishes, pozole from Old Mexico, got a less enthusiastic nod from eaters this year, but still shines as a hearty, nutritious and reasonably priced meal with veggies, hominy, and a rich broth and fried tortillas for dipping.
Favorite Ethnic: Old Mexico’s steak tacos and Sam Pon’s combo plate of stir-fried noodles and fried rice got high marks all around.
Most smile-worthy: The frozen, Oreo-covered banana Robin Robert wrangled at Mrs. J’s Chocolate Pot might have been a bigger sell on a warmer day, but instead sat a bit forlornly through the feast. Post-lunch, a brave Marlene Hudson declared it quite delicious, if a bit squishy.
Favorite walk-n-chew foods: “I was surprised how good those Slim Jims were,” said one BiteClubber about Lakeside Jerky’s beef sticks, which quickly disappeared from the table. Meanwhile, we pretty much had to pry the churro out of Logan’s hands, as he extolled the virtues of its fried cinnamon goodness. Because really, who doesn’t love a churro (El Churro in the Mexican village).
Most-anticipated: Hudson made a bee-line for Mackinac Island Fudge’s rich, chocolate walnut fudge. The Scramble swarm ate it before she got a bite. Sorry, Marlene.
You may also want to check out: Even after spending $140 and a few hours eating, there were plenty of edibles left on our list, including Kettle Corn, Country Fair cinnamon rolls, shaved ice, Pronto Pups, Gidget’s Waffle Cones, gyros at the Sleek Greek (a huge hit at last year’s Scramble), Mary’s Pizza Shack and the ever-popular Ibleto’s Spaghetti Palace.
At the end of the carnage, Scott Minaker looked over the caloric destruction and deadpanned, “I gotta go get something to eat.”
What are your favorite fair foods?
Bovine Bakery coming to Petaluma
Moo-licious Bovine Bakery of Point Reyes is expanding to Petaluma, come September. According to owner Bridget Devlin, they’ll be moving into the a vacant space on Kentucky Street recently vacated by Purple Leaf catering. There’s not a ton of work to do since the spot already has a commercial kitchen and much of equipment they’ll need. “We always have people calling us from Petaluma wishing we were closer,” said Devlin. The menu of morning munchies, pizza, muffins, breads and bear claws (among other things) will remain pretty true to their original location.
Sonoma Coast Fish Bank
CLOSED
Just a stone’s throw from the coast, the once-sleepy town of Valley Ford is waking up to its potential as a charming whistlestop on the way to Bodega Bay and beyond. The newest kid on the restaurant block: Sonoma Coast Fish Bank which opened in February 2010.
Housed in a historic bank that stood empty for years, the renovated space is a bonanza for fresh, locally-caught seafood including oysters, salmon, smelt, scallops and sustainable seafoods from further afield. Owner Brandon Guenther, who also co-owns the nearby Rocker Oysterfeller’s and Valley Ford Hotel with wife Shona, have continued to expand their offerings with haute picnic fare (Fatted Calf Charcuterie, local cheeses) and have just added prepared sandwiches like a Gulf Shrimp po-boy with remoulade, pulled pork sandwich, along with oysters and housemade clam chowder. Guenther says he recently spent a week eating through New Orleans to get his seafood po boy mojo going, so expect more tasty creations on the menu.
If you’ve got a few more minutes to spare, Rocker Oysterfeller’s (14415 Highway One, Valley Ford, (707) 876-1983)continues to pack in crowds with its oft-changing Southern-inspired menu. From grits to fried oyster po-boys, scallops with crispy fried okra, burgers and Crab Louie, there’s little on the menu that isn’t sourced locally or sustainably. New to the menu are cornmeal-dusted smelt that are fried into crispy one-bite poppers that Guenther calls “Fries with Eyes”. Surprisingly addictive and best paired with an ice cold beer.
Sonoma Coast Fish Bank: 14415 Highway One, Valley Ford, (707) 876-FISH Open daily 11:30am to 6pm
Also in town: Route One Diner (14450 Highway 1, Valley Ford, (707) 876-9600) is a convenient spot for a quick fuel-up, especially at breakfast time. With the usual hash brown fare in the AM and burgers in the afternoon, it’s family-friendly fare. Next door is the Valley Ford Market (14400 Coast Hwy 1, Valley Ford, (707) 876-3245), a local hub for grab-n-go picnic fare, sausages and chowder. The longtime Italian family restaurant, Dinucci’s is a favorite for simple, homestyle dinners and minestrone soup is a top pick among its fans. (14485 Valley Ford Rd, Valley Ford, (707) 876-3260)
Torch of India to SR, Karma closes
The former Kabab & Curry will soon become Torch of India, an outpost of a popular Vacaville eatery. No word on opening dates, but it looks to be within the next several weeks. The resto is seeking “tasters” for a preview event — which bodes well.
Saturday, July 24 7:00p to 9:00pm, Torch of India announces their FREE pre-opening Tasting Event. We are soon to open at 507 4th Street at the previous Kabab and Curry House location. Having gained the reputation of Solano County’s #1 Indian restaurant we look forward to setting these standards in Sonoma County. We invite lovers of Indian food who have eaten at other local Indian restaurants to join us and critique our food. Event is tentatively 2-3 weeks from now. Exact date will be announced. CURRENT DATES ARE TENTATIVE. Please call 707 355 0642 for an invitation.RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED BY INVITE ONLY.
Meanwhile, readers tell BiteClub that Karma Bistro in Cotati has closed.
Win: Fair Food Scramble 2010
CONGRATS TO THE WINNERS! STAY TUNED FOR DETAILS TOMORROW!
You know the drill by now…on opening day of the Sonoma County Fair, BiteClub takes five lucky winners (consider yourself a sort of Charlie Bucket, Veruca Salt, etc.) to scramble for all the delicious goodness that our midway can offer.
It’s the annual Fair Food Scramble!
From Pasta King to turkey legs, corn dogs, barbecue and beyond, we’ll snatch up whatever goodies we can find, bring it all back to our special reserve tables and feast like the true epicures we really are. (See pix of last year’s scramble)
You should see the looks of wanton jealousy we attract.
So how do you get to participate? Flattery is always good, but to really win my heart, your best bet is to convince me that you’re the ideal candidate. How much do you love fair food? Tell me some special memories. Write a poem. Be creative. Extol your eating virtues, but most of all, be you.
Leave your thoughts below, and five winners will be selected this on Friday (7/24) . You’ll get the details on our funtabulous food fest, but make sure you can be available around 1-3pm on Tuesday, July 27. (I’ll call your boss if you need me to. Cause dang it, this is really more important that whatever you’re doing at work.)
You also need to be fun and willing to share you food. Otherwise, we’ll make you sit alone. No whiners. No changies. No dramarama. Or again, we make you sit alone and make fun of you.
CONTEST CLOSED
Dear Bohemian Grove: Russian River eats
Dear Bohemian Grovers,
First off, welcome back to Camp Big Cheese! Yes, we locals know you’re here. Perhaps it was the traffic jam of private jets on our local tarmacs last week, the prepoderance of “OMG. Celeb sighting!” Tweets around Sonoma County or the sudden run on grand crus from our local wine shops. Who’s to say, because frankly, we’ve been more focused on the traffic jam of limos on River Road.
Now we know you have a lot to do these next few days, what with the rituals, high jinks and wheeling and dealing, but let us be the first to suggest that some off-campus bread-breaking might just be the thing. Goodness knows that with 2,000 of your fellow VIPS clogging up the cafeteria lines, mystery meat at your campsite (again!) and unsavory gate-crashers lurking about, maybe you’re better off with a little covert noshing.
So in the spirit of friendship (and totally not stalking), may we suggest a few of our favorite local eateries? We’re talking quiet, off-the-beaten-path spots where the locals hang and great grub is a way of life. You’re in Sonoma County, after all. Just leave a big tip and we promise we’ll post a flattering iPhone picture of you to our Facebook page.
BiteClub’s Best Bets for What to Eat In (and around) Monte Rio
Applewood Inn: Chef Bruce Frieseke is one of the best Wine Country chefs you may not know. In his brief tenure at the helm of this quiet Guerneville bed and breakfast, he’s elevated the cuisine from ho-hum to haute. Trained in Paris and San Francisco, with stints at the Farmhouse Inn and as Exec chef at Healdsburg’s Manzanita, Freiseke has put his energy toward a locally-inspired dinner menu with dishes like fresh chilled English Pea soup with mint; a tartare of beef, potato chips, pickled mustard seeds, quail’s egg and house-cured anchovies; and cacao nib crusted rack of lamb with brown butter parsnips, house made chorizo and mini chimichurri. The five-course tasting menu at $70 is still a value, with impressive wine or beer-pairings for $105. 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville, 869-9093.
Garden Grill: Don’t let the name fool you. This insanely popular breakfast spot has recently added a lineup of house-smoked barbecue to their menu, including ribs, bbq tri-tip and brisket for lunch and dinner. And while we won’t guarantee it’s quite up to our native KC and Tennessee standards (because nothin’ east of the Rockies can compare), the pink smoke rings brought a tear to our eye and a smile to our lips. 17132 Hwy 116, Guerneville, (707) 869-3922.
Raymond’s Bakery: Hidden among the redwood groves in Cazadero is your diet’s downfall. Award-winning baker Mark Raymond and his wife Elizabeth have fresh racks of baguettes, batards, fougasse and boules each day — meaning yummy bread in all shapes and sizes — along with fresh pizza and pastries. Don’t miss the butter-crusted walnut tart, a tastier, classier cousin to pecan pie. 5400 Cazadero Highway, Cazadero, (707) 632-5335
Don’s Dogs and More Cafe: Monte Rio has a love-hate relationship with the Grovers. While some folks in these parts can be pretty unfriendly to big-talkin’ conservative-types, the Grove also raises quite a bit of money each year for their fire services, schools and churches. But if you’re craving a dog, Don’s is the place to get your wiener relished. Locals swear by the Don’s Dog, a grilled quarter-pounder best eaten on the deck. Bohemian Hwy and Hwy 116 intersection, Monte Rio, (707) 865-4190.
Sophie’s Cellars: For three weeks each year, John Haggard is at the beck and call of the world’s most powerful men. The other 49 weeks, he’s just a guy from Monte Rio who happens to run a world class wine shop. Nestled deep among the coastal redwood groves of West County, Sophie’s Cellars caters to the grand cru-set during the Grove gathering, but is equally happy to sell a $15 bottle of chardonnay. In fact, he seems to get just as much satisfaction match-making visitors with local eateries and tasting rooms (with maps and coupons), giving insider menu tips and suggesting tasty wine pairings. Call him the Concierge of West County. 20293 Hwy 116, Monte Rio, 707-865-1122. Open 11am to 7pm, closed Wednesday.
Boon Eat + Drink: Simple, stylish decor with an equally simple and stylish menu. This funky eatery serves up just a handful of local, seasonal dishes, but almost all are done to perfection. Flat iron steak, a beefy boon burger with garlic aioli and pickled onions ($9), fresh salads and a giant bowl of truffle fries with sundried tomato ketchup and garlic aoili shouldn’t be missed. And Humphry Slocombe ice cream is a perfect foil for all those gin fizzes you’ve been packing.16248 Main St., Guerneville, 869-0780.
Sarah’s Forestville Kitchen | Forestville
RESTAURANT CLOSED
At the helm of Sarah’s Forestville Kitchen is Chef Greg Hallihan (formerly of Stella’s Cafe) — a breakfast/brunch/lunchery in the heart of Forestville.
Locals may remember it as the former Tin Pony, with a smashing outdoor courtyard just off the main drag and now-revamped indoor dining room. Here, Hallihan brings his solid kitchen skills to the table, pulling off a globe-trotting menu that ranges from fried chicken and grits to homemade corned beef to Thai curries.
This is a two-or-three visit spot, because there’s just so much that looks good. First-time picks include a memorable order of jalapeno cheese grits with shrimp, Sarah’s Ruben (made with the aforementioned corned beef), red curry and a Southern fried chicken sandwich. My dining pals, Evelyn and Jan both agreed that the grits were the standout of the day (and I concurred). Other BiteClubbers swear by breakfast, where yummies like a crispy Monte Cristo sandwich, biscuits and gravy, house scramble, and mixed veggie hash beckon. The cafe features a number of breads from nearby Nightingale Breads, the tiny bakery operated by former nurse Beth Thorp.
It’s a breakfast, brunch and lunch spot, with occasional winemaker or locals dinner, but you’ll need to call ahead or check out their website to find out when they’re open. Bring cash, because they don’t take checks or cards and reservations are only accepted by phone. 6566 Front Street, Forestville, 887-1055.
The Barlow, a Sebastopol food, wine and art center moving forward
The Barlow, a mixed-use industrial center with a focus on food, wine, art and sustainable retail in downtown Sebastopol has announced plans to break ground this fall. Looking toward a summer 2011 opening, the 6.5 acre campus plans to include the long-running Sebastopol Farmer’s Market at it’s center, along with restaurant, retail, artisan food producer and wine production tenants.
Years in the making, The Barlow is one of several farm market/retail proposals being aggressively pursued in Sonoma County, including the Sonoma Market Hall (in Santa Rosa, also hoping to open next summer) and the Railroad Square Market (also moving forward with plans). Smaller in scope than the ambitious Market Hall and with a strong focus on hyper-local retailers, the Barlow will revamp the historic Barlow Apple Factory warehouse that’s become more eyesore than attraction.
According to Barney Aldridge, whose company Aldridge Management is backing the project, the campus will include the renovated warehouse plus eight additional structures. “We’re starting to get commitments from people,” he said, but as yet, he’s remaining mum on exactly who. Several local purveyors, including a local meat rancher, cafe, roastery and caterer, are rumored to be seeking out spaces.
In addition to the eight buildings, which will be built according to green standards, the space will also include a fountain, fire pits, a garden, bocce ball courts, sunken seating area, children’s play area, public bathrooms, parking and a number of art installments. Aldridge said that he also plans to create large awnings for the outdoor farm market to enable it to continue year-round, and possibly more than one day a week. Sebastopol farm market manager Paula Downing confirmed that she hoped to move to the more spacious site once it was completed.
Kenyon Webster, Planning Director for the city of Sebastopol said that site is now past the major hurdles of the public hearing process and is now moving into non-discretionary building and engineering permits and hopes to receive final approval from the Design Review Board in August. “He (Aldridge) is past the kind of public controversy point that you sometimes see with larger projects,” said Webster. The site had been on hold for several years while the city wrangled over zoning changes to the site, ultimately deciding to maintain the current industrial zoning, rather than adding any residential zoning to the site. Aldridge said he also was required to conform to FEMA standards because the site is on a hundred year flood plain. Road improvements are also part of the deal, according to Aldridge. The existing warehouse, which blocks McKinley St. and sits on the city’s sewer line, will be relocated and the road continued to help relieve some of the traffic congestion at the Highway 12 intersection and connect to Morris Street.
Adjacent to the Barlow is the 120,000 square foot Sebastopol Co-Op, already occupied by a number of artists, the Sebastopol Center for the Arts, the Guayaki Tea Company and Wolford Glass Company. Aldridge plans to include them in the development plans.
“What we’re looking to do is create a community environment — to take a property that’s pretty unattractive right now and turn it into a community center,” said project manager Amber Faur of the now-vacant Barlow warehouse. “We want to cultivate that locavore vibe of artisan food, wine and community,” she said.
Now that those have been overcome, plans are moving forward quickly, Faur describes the completed space as a sort of San Francisco Ferry Building with a strong community feel. “This is just a really great spot to bring together local synergy,” she said.