I’m a hickory smoked slab of Heather covered in a blanket of rich, delicious guilt. I missed the Chocolate Covered Bacon at the Sonoma County Fair.
I could point fingers. I could lay blame. I could pretend that I’d eaten it and loved it. But the fact of the matter is simply that I missed it during our Fair Food Scramble. It is my Waterloo.
I was prepared to let it drop, but people keep freaking asking me about it. I don’t know already!
Thankfully, BiteClubbers (as always) come through. While there have been plenty of “yums” on the plus side, my inside eaters say that its more about the fun factor than the actual deliciousness. Here are some pix and comments from the faithful fans who eternally pick up the slack that I have left behind. Bless you…and your arteries.
From one BiteClubber: “My friend Nick said it tasted like a “salty Charleston Chew” and I think that’s pretty accurate.”
Further description: “Was it earth shattering? No. Was it a marriage of two wonderful things like Reese’s did with chocolate and peanut butter? Not really. Then again, I made the mistake of taking a bite from the fatty end first. It’s difficult to tell with it being coated in chocolate and all. Lucky for me, I had a funnel cake as a palette cleanser.”
Ann sends this picture of she and a friend sharing the bacon. And while entertaining, she was personally a bigger fan of the Virtual Reality Ride Booth. Ann…friends don’t let friends bacon and ride.
So what did you think? Love it? Hate it? Send me a picture of you eating it and I’ll try to post it.
Terducken of cakes: The Chernuttle
Meet the Chernuttle, the son of the popular CherPumple — a godforsaken behmoth of a cake. The ridiculous idea? Bake an entire pie inside a layer of cake. Repeat three times. Then frost and attempt to eat.
No seriously. It’s an internet sensation. And your friends will think you’re terribly clever. Plus, I was bored last night.
So here’s BiteClub’s take…
– Level one: Spiced cake with an apple pie baked inside
– Level two: Yellow cake with a cherry pie baked inside
– Level three: White cake with glazed donuts baked inside, mostly because the structural integrity of the dang thing was getting pretty precarious and it seemed like it needed a lighter layer.
Total weight: Approx six pounds. Regret after eating: Endless.
Here’s the inspiration video:
Vazzoler to chef new Hburg steakhouse?
BiteClub hears that Gary Danko alum, Kolin Vazzoler, may be tapped as chef for Cyrus toque Douglas Keane’s in-the-works steakhouse venture. Vazzoler was executive sous chef in Danko’s kitchen for eight years, and more recently executive chef at Marche in Menlo Park.
Though Keane is still reportedly in the process of nailing down some final details on the space (the former Cena Luna), it’s no secret that he’s been jonesing for a steakhouse in Healdsburg for some time. Keane’s been real estate scoping for months, and recently told BiteClub, “I can’t believe people haven’t done it yet in Healdsburg. All we really have for great steaks in Sonoma County is Stark’s, and people in Healdsburg won’t always go to Santa Rosa. I’ve just always wanted to do this for the great wines here.”
But don’t expect it to be called “Cyrus Steak”. Keane recently said that the restaurant will incorporate his signature Asian influences, but won’t be as high end and tweezer-perfect as multi-Michelin-starred Cyrus. “This will be all about the meat, the flavors and the wines. Simple California cuisine.”
This is the third venture for the chef. Along with Cyrus, Keane is part of the management team of the casual burgery, Healdsburg Bar and Grill, along with Cyrus maitre’d Nick Peyton. He will be a co-owner of the steakhouse and plans to involve Peyton in the management team.
Jerky of the Month Club
Your boss.
The DMV.
That lady in accounting.
The kid who dented your car yesterday.
All potential members of the Jerky of the Month Club.
The one who deserves it most of all? You.
Packed with protein and bursting with tasty flavors like Beef Chili Lime, Sweet Chipotle, Smoky Grilled Pork Teriyaki, Beef Curry and Lemon Garlic Turkey, Wine Country’s own Krave Jerky is everything you love about dried meat — and a whole lot less.
Using super lean cuts of pork, beef and turkey, Jon Sebastiani (yes, the wine family) and pal Jens Hoj (who’s spent plenty of time in high-end kitchens) are the guys behind this new alterna-energy snack, as well as their own target market. “We’re reintroducing jerky,” said Sebastiani, a runner who wanted a tasty convenience food that was high in protein. Higher, in fact, than nuts, raisins, or sunflower seeds and wasn’t the greasy, rubbery stuff you find in gas stations and truck stops.
With plans for world jerky domination (jerky is actually a $4 billion dollar industry dominated by brands like Oberto, Jack LInks and Slim Jims), they’re converting fans one bag at a time. Not to mention putting some dents of their own in the inventory.
“We’re eating about five bags every three days, so we figured Club Memebers would have no problem munching down 5 bags a month,” said the jerky guys. Joining their fledgling Jerky of the Month Club means you’ll get plenty of protein power delivered to your doorstep for $25 (with free shipping) each month.
The duo continue to test new flavors (cabernet rosemary flanksteak and chardonnay thyme pork are in the works), keeping things interesting. And keeping you in the company of some serious jerky.
Krave Jerky, available online at kravejerky.com
Cinnamon Yogurt Chicken
If you’re a fan of Indian cooking, this recipe for chicken marinated in rich, creamy yogurt is a no-brainer. A way of keeping tandoori meats moist and tender, dishes like butter chicken rely on giving poultry a long dip in a bath of yogurt, spices, garlic and lemon.
But this time, the secret’s in the sauce. For this luxed-up version the chicken gets the spa-treatment in Straus Family Creamery’s new cinnamon-flavored yogurt.
When a tub landed on my desk a few weeks ago, it seemed almost too easy to just plop it on granola. Silky smooth and richer than Midas, it’s made for the marinade, though clearly you can use just about any type of yogurt for this recipe.
Garam masala is the perfect spice partner for this, with a mix of coriander, black pepper, cumin, cadamom, cloves, mace and a little cinnamon of its own. You’ll find it on most high-end grocery spice aisles, but BiteClub made a special field trip over to Savory Spice (317 D St., Santa Rosa) to get a salt-free version made with top shelf herbs and spices. So worth it.
This recipe is all about experimentation to get the right mix…
Cinnamon Yogurt Marinated Chicken
3-4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 1/2 cup Straus Creamy whole milk cinnamon yogurt* (or any other whole milk yogurt)
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 T garam masala
Fresh ginger (about the size of your thumb tip), peeled and grated
1 tsp curry powder
2 tsp lemon
pinch salt
pinch pepper
The Details
First, rinse and pat dry the chicken breasts. Cut into uniform pieces (about an inch by an inch). They won’t all be perfect, but they’ll cook better if they’re roughly the same size and shape. Set aside.
In a plastic ziptop bag, add the other ingredients and mix by sloshing it around a bit. If you need a little more yogurt, feel free to splash in a little more. Add the chicken to the wet ingredients and marinate for 20 minutes to 24 hours (longer is better, but you can’t always wait) in the refrigerator.
Place several of the marinated pieces of chicken on a skewer. You can space them out with small pieces of onion if you’d like, but leave a bit of room between so the meat can cook through. Grill until cooked through, but not overcooked (about 4-5 minutes a side). Conversely, you can wrap the chicken in foil and bake at 325 degrees for about 30-40 minutes or until cooked through. Serve with basmati rice, fresh naan, and grilled vegetables. You can add a bit of bottled sauce (like a peanut sauce, curry or korma) for dipping and extra flavor.
*Straus Family Creamery yogurt is available in Sonoma County at Oliver’s Markets, Whole Foods, Pacific Market, Raley’s, Molsberry’s and Community Market.
Napa restaurant explosion
Downtown Napa is in the midst of a restaurant explosion. And by explosion, we mean that restaurants in this formerly sleepy Wine Country burg are popping up like mushrooms in November — you can’t take a step without hitting one.
From the downtown restaurant row to a revamped Oxbow market and the emerging Riverfront development plenty of folks are spending big bucks to get their Napa food fix. Less than an hour from Santa Rosa we’re practically neighbors, making an quick evening jaunt or a weekend stay-cation practically a requirement for these last languid days of summer. Need an inside guide to the players? Here’s where to go…
Oenotri: Meanwhile, Napa’s new southern Italian eatery Oenotri continues to take the valley by storm with its modern-classic takes on pasta, salumi, squab (a fave), pizza and whatever else is in season. Not surprisingly, owners Curtis Di Fede and Tyler Rodde are Oliveto alums, so expect lots of nose-to-tail eating. 1425 First St. (near Franklin), Napa, (707) 252-1022.
Late night: It’s no secret that the sidewalks tend to roll up early in Wine Country. But the recently-opened Bistro Sabor is keeping the party going with late night Latin street eats until 2am on Friday and Saturday nights (midnight Tuesday through Thursday). The menu’s simple, with just a handful of small plates — a shitake mushroom quesadilla; corn with fresh cheese and salsa; salmon ceviche tostada; a fruta fresca with mango, jicama, cucumber, cabbage and watermelon and a selection of Mexican tortas (sandwiches), tacos and tamales. 1126 First St, Napa, 707 252-0555.
Grace’s Table: For lunch, grab a seat at the also-new Grace’s Table (in the former Azzuro space), where a mix of seasonal global cuisine somehow works. It’s a hodgepodge of dishes, from Tuna Nicoise and Creole Steamed Mussels to pesto potato gnocchi, tamlales or Sonoma duck breast. On nice days (and really, when isn’t it nice in Napa?), a glass wall opens up to let diners spill out onto the sidewalk. Open for lunch and dinner daily, 1400 Second St., Napa, 226-6200.
Kids: Conveniently located just around the corner from the Sift Cupcakery outpost in Napa, The Little Gourmet is a kid-centric restaurant that’s adult friendly. Instead of microwaved chicken nuggets, however, expect healthier — but still very toddler accessible eats. Like “Boulders and Logs”, an organic meatball grinder sandwich with a “forest of broccoli” or Snakes and Worms, soy and peanut butter-marinated chicken atop soba noodles with a dipper of peanut butter “mud”. Grown ups can order from the kid menu or from a slightly more mature menu. Open for lunch and dinner. 1040 Main Street, Napa, 257.7700
Oxbow Evolution: If you haven’t visited the Oxbow Market in a year or so, expect to find a much-changed venue that’s become a dining destination. One of the best (and newest) additions is C Casa, an artisan taqueria headed up by the Jacinto brothers (Cindy Pawlcyn alums) and Catherine Bergen (Tulocay, Made in Napa Valley). They’ve expanded the dining area into the center of the market and outside, with cozy semi-private coves, featuring menu items like tacos with spiced lamb, mint and goat cheese; ground buffalo with microgreens, black beans and chipotle aioli; broccoli cabbage slaw with cilantro lime vinaigrette and whole chile rubbed rotisserie chickens. Also new to the lineup is Graham’s Takeaway, a CIA-trained chef and French Laundry alum who serves up anything-but-ordinary sandwiches, salads (everything baked potato salad is a winner) and fresh pastries and breads. Ca’Momi Enoteca pizzeria and wine bar is slated to open later this summer and there’s buzz that another major player may move into the market this year.
Save room for stops at Hog Island Oyster, Pica Pica Maize Kitchen and the new Pica Pica Bar, along with Kara’s Cupcakes, Annette’s Chocolates, Whole Spice, Oxbow Produce and grocery, Three Twins Ice Cream, Kanaloa Seafood and Five Dot Ranch, whose sustainable beef is starting to show up on restaurant menus throughout the valley. 610 and 644 First St , Napa.
Morimoto: There’s no doubt that Masaharu Morimoto’s newest restaurant in Napa’s downtown Riverfront development is Wine Country’s most, well, un-Wine Country space. There’s no stucco or faux-Italian charm, but instead a stark, minimal urban space with concrete floors, vast windows and a clean Japanese sensibility. Several hostesses greet you at the door, while an army of staff line the walls waiting to present masterworks of Japanese/California cuisine to Morimoto’s rabid fans. He is, as most foodies know, Food Network’s Iron Chef of Iron chefs. An alum of Nobu and countless other restaurants, he now has several eponymous eateries (Philadelphia, NYC) and is in the works with (we hear) three more just this year. Morimoto, unlike other FN personalities, however, has the actual cooking skills to draw serious eaters, rather than celeb-gawkers.You’re here for two things: Seafood (especially sushi and sashimi) and the Waygu beef. Morimoto is a notorious stickler about his fish, usually flying in exceptional seafood from Japan. Waygu is a highly marbled, incredibly tasty kind of beef. It’s the breed of cattle used for kobe beef, but typically from America (and therefore not allowed to be called Kobe, which only comes from Japan). 1001 Second St, Napa, 707 252-1600.
Also opening in the much-anticipated Riverfront in coming weeks is Fish Story, a new restaurant from the Lark Creek restaurant group with Chef Stephen Barber at the helm and a casual dining concept from Tyler Florence (who just opened Wayfare in SF) called Tyler Florence’s Rotisserie.
Around 3pm, head to Model bakery (644 First St., 259-1128) located outside the Oxbow complex near Gott’s (formerly Taylor’s Automatic Refresher) and Fatted Calf Charcuterie. The iconic valley baker now does a late bake for restaurants, setting aside a few dozen warm, chewy loaves for lucky locals who know their secret.
Also still relatively new…
– Norman Rose Tavern
– Neela’s Indian Cuisine
– Azzuro Pizzeria e Enoteca: A new location on Main has meant even more fans for the longtime Sicilian-style pizza spot. The menu has continued to evolve, with of-the-moment specials (grilled peaches, tomatoes and ricotta in late July is heaven) along with weighty dinner specials like ribeye steak.
Salt Side Down Chocolates
Sweet treats are nice, but any cook will tell you it’s the salt that really makes your taste buds stand up and take notice.
Wrapping sweet, salty and a little bit of umami into a truffle-iciously tasty package is chocolatier Julie Herson of Salt Side Down Chocolates.
Using the best stuff she can get her hands on — heirloom cacao, fresh local fruit, cream and wines and artisan sea salts — this Culinary Institute of America grad is putting a new spin on luxe chocolate. The idea: Hand-dipped truffles topped with sea salt crystals meant to be plopped into your mouth salt side down. Prepping your buds with a quick jolt of salty makes the sweet, well, that much sweeter and more dynamic, according to Herson.
Her lineup of flavors change frequently (she’s currently working on a chili-infused chocolate), but recent truffles included the Blushing Bride (cinnamon and plum with Sonoma Valley Portworks’ Aria Petit verdot Port and Murray River Flake salt); spiced orange with French gray sea salt; Sweet Dreams (chamomile and lavender with lavender sea salt); The Flying Esmeralda (Flying Goat coffee with coffee dusted Maldon salt and cocao nibs); a late-harvest Zinfandel reduction chocolate and Le Classic (a French style truffle).
Where to find ’em: Occidental Farmers Market each Friday through the summer, Geyserville Farmers Market on August 19th (5:30 to sundown) and at a number of pairing events at local wineries (see her website). Also at pairing events at local wineries (Kokomo, Sonoma Valley Portworks, to name a few). And…complimentary hand delivery throughout Sonoma County from the online boutique at saltsidedownchocolates.com.
Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola Winery
The creative essence of Francis Ford Coppola swirls around his palatial Geyserville winery like a thick fog. Seeping into every detail, from menu to merchandising, there’s no question the Godfather director is a hands-on kind of guy, with his strong personal likes and dislikes informing into every detail of the massive remodel of the former Chateau Souverain.
That, of course, extends to his the winery’s new restaurant, Rustic, where staff repeatedly chant the mantra, “Francis feels that…” or “Francis wanted…” when asked about everything from ingredients to decor.
A personal project inspired by family recipes and his travels around the world, Coppola’s finally-completed winery restaurant has been well worth the wait. Putting his personal stamp of approval on all the menu items, the not so subtle sub-text of the menu is that these are Coppola’s favorite foods. That, and the fact the whole center of the menu says “Francis’s Favorites” as does the subtitle to the restaurant.
With that kind of personal investment, (staff say he’s been a near-constant presence while the restaurant revs up), you get a pretty healthy whiff of his passion for these dishes, along with personal anecdotes about each of the “favorites”. For example, the Chicken Mattone: “This dish, alternately called chicken under the stone or brick, has become popular lately, but often too tame compared to my favorite version. You have to drive out to a restaurant on the outskirts of Rome about 45 minutes, and call ahead because this is how long it takes to prepare authentically…” and it continues on for several more sentences. Call it food storytelling.
Quick Take: Destination-worthy Italian dishes emerge from cracker-crisp Neapolitan pizzas and simple pastas to hearty burgers, Argentine short-ribs (from a center-stage parrilla, or Argentinean grill), salads and the daily “Favorites” (Chicken Mattone, Mrs. Scorsese’s Lemon Chicken, goose-fat roasted potatoes, Marrakesh Lamb, rigatoni in meat ragu) that promise to be show-stoppers.
Best Bets: A flood of fans the first week surprised kitchen staff, so all of the “favorites” like the brick chicken Mattone, lemon chicken and short-ribs were long-gone by the time we arrived for a 1pm lunch. Some of the dishes are still in development, as well, like the lamb, which we were told Francis wasn’t quite happy with yet. But there’s still plenty to love on the menu. French fried zucchini ($7) are thin, salty sticks overflowing from the bowl, and fresh mozzarella arrives with several savory zeppole (fried Italian donuts). Pizza Sofia is a girlfriend’s delight, a light, crunchy pizza crust draped with peppery arugula, slices of prosciutto and shavings of fresh parmesan. Caesar salad is in the classic style, with fresh egg yolk, crunchy croutons and strips of anchovy. For dessert, Chocolate Mousse al “Francis Francis” is more of a dense pot de creme, served with a dollop of cream in a teacup ($6).
The drinks: Full wine list with most of Coppola’s wines (both from here and from his Napa Rubicon Estate) along with several other locals. Plus, a full bar with, well, everything else. Top bets include “Navy Grog”, a fruity tropical sipper (Francis’ favorite, natch) and the Dark and Stormy (rum and ginger beer).
The vibe: The space has been transformed from the drab leftovers of what once was Gary Danko’s home turf into a casually luxe Italian bistro. Waiters and floor staff wear Italian-inspired restaurant jackets that are a cross between band major and bellhop, but carry it off in style. A collection of historical Italian olive oil labels line the walls, but you’re here for the view, which inside or out is incredible, looking out for miles over northern Sonoma County vineyards.
Stay tuned for: It’s worth coming back in the fall for two major events. The outdoor pools are in their final stages of construction. The idea is to create a resort-like space (the chateau is an homage to the Godfather, with the exterior mimicking a retro 50’s pool) with private “cabines” for families. Staff tell BiteClub they’re already practicing their parts for the forthcoming a tavola dinners this fall. Meaning “at the table”, the concept is family style dining/dinner theater with staff playing the parts of Italian wives, local marketeers and mongers hawking their wares (in character and costume) through the restaurant serving the audience chef’s choice “small plates”.
At the helm: Chef de cuisine Nick Petrilli formerly of Bottega and Tra Vigne.
While you’re there: Oh yeah, Coppola is of course a working winery as well. The brands here are purposeful everyday sippers, especially when compared to his fancy-pants Napa Rubicon wines. Most familiar are the Diamond series (including the wildly popular claret). The “Sofia” label, named after his daughter are often slightly sweet, delicate and appealing, while the Director’s Cut reds (esp. the big bad zinfandel) are workhorse SoCo wines that rarely disappoint.
300 Via Archimedes
Geyserville, CA 95441
(707) 857-1485
Farmer’s Markets now accept food stamps
Food stamps have arrived at the farmers market. Since May, the Healdsburg and Petaluma Farmers Markets have begun swiping EBT cards — electronic debit cards used in lieu of food stamps — in return for locally grown fruits, vegetables and meats. Santa Rosa and Sebastopol also plan to join.
The first to accept the Electronic Benefits Transfer cards was the Healdsburg Farmers Market. Petaluma began accepting the cards in June, and the Santa Rosa market at the Veteran’s building and Sebastopol market will follow suit on August 14th and 15th respectively.
Here’s how it works: the market manager swipes the card, directly deducting the amount from the buyer’s account in exchange for tokens that can only be used at the farmers market. The tokens are used to buy food from the purveyors, who trade them in for cash at the end of the market day.
“A lot of food stamp offices have been hoping this would happen for a long time because they want clients to have access to healthier foods. In poorer neighborhoods, it’s fast foods and mini-markets, and access to fresh foods just isn’t there,” said Lisa Mann, a department analyst at the Sonoma County Human Services Department. “The sad fact is that Top Ramen is cheaper than organic produce. But for long-term health benefits, it’s obviously important to eat healthier,” she added.
Seen as a nutrition-assistance program for low-income individuals often prone to obesity and unhealthy eating, SNAP (Supplemental Nutritional Assistance Program) advocates are working hard to motivate and educate people about the benefits of eating fresh food from their local farmers.
The Healdsburg market is a test case for the local program, and market manager Mary Kelley said she’s getting two to three food stamp recipients at the market each week.
“People are coming here to find things that are unique or unusual, and they want to be part of the community spirit. They come with their families,” said Kelley, who adds that she’s seeing a cross-section of demographics, including college grads who have lost or couldn’t find jobs in the recent economy.
With the average enrolled family receiving just $288 in assistance per month, many in the food world agree that fresh foods can seem out of reach both financially and geographically.
“Packaged food is cheap, because the government subsidizes cheap foods. But we want people to know that they can afford food at the farmers market, and farmers want to make this work,” Kelley said.
As additional incentive, the Healdsburg and Santa Rosa markets have set up funds to match EBT amounts. For example, someone who spends $10 at the Healdsburg market will get an additional $10 in tokens to spend there. At Santa Rosa, they will get $5 for the first $10 spent. These funds have been created through personal donations to the market, which Kelley and Santa Rosa and Sebastopol market manager Paula Downing hope will continue to be replenished.
“I’m optimistic, but there’s a high educational and learning curve,” said Downing.
The Santa Rosa market will feature a luncheon for EBT card users on August 14, along with cooking demonstrations and recipes for using market foods in English and Spanish.
Local youth from the VOICES program and CHOPS teen club, which serve underprivileged youth, are also expected to get involved with the Santa Rosa program.
“When you involve people in the business of food, they don’t have to eat out of a package,” Downing said.
Concerns over increased bookkeeping and administrative expensees – the wireless card-system alone costs $1,000 – threatened to derail the program as a state bill requiring California farm markets to accept electronic food stamps cards by 2012 began making its way through the state Legislature in February. It now resides in the Senate.
But the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) has since agreed to shoulder the cost of the card systems. Healdsburg’s Kelley acknowledges she’s putting in several hours of extra bookkeeping for the handful of food stamp clients she’s seen each week at the market. But she is so far encouraged by the program.
Refuting the idea that farmers markets are more expensive, Kelley said that while some produce may be commanding a premium, most everyday seasonal produce is comparable or even less that that in grocery stores.
“So much of supporting farmers markets is about changing habits,” she said. “I want people to get over misconceptions that we’re more expensive.”
In Sonoma County, there are currently more than 20,000 individuals participating in the federal food stamp program, including 14,000 children. Local enrollment has grown by more than 65 percent in the past two years. Nationwide, 40.2 million American rely on food stamps, according to USDA statistics. According to the Sonoma County Human Services Department, nearly all local benefits are spent locally and stay in the community.
“Our local farmers and farmers markets get the benefits of these dollars and low-income families have a chance to purchase fruits and vegetables so fresh they might have been picked from the farm that morning. Everybody wins,” said Marion Deeds, Director of the Economic Assistance Division within the Sonoma County Human Services Department.
Morimoto | Napa
All I can think, walking into Napa’s Morimito is…am I really cool enough to eat here? Downbeat music pumps onto the sidewalk, perfectly matching the rhythm of the Furstenberg-esque wedges marching their way toward me. Attached is a faux-hawked Glamazon I’m afraid might either eat me or mock my five-year-old fake alligator pumps from Target. Either way, not a great way to start the night as we — fashion’s before and after — enter the weeks-old space.
There’s no doubt that Masaharu Morimoto’s newest restaurant in Napa’s downtown Riverfront development is Wine Country’s most, well, un-Wine Country space. There’s no stucco or faux-Italian charm, but instead a stark, minimal urban space with concrete floors, vast windows and a clean Japanese sensibility. Several hostesses greet you at the door, while an army of staff line the walls waiting to present masterworks of Japanese/California cuisine to Morimoto’s rabid fans.
Morimoto is, as most foodies know, the Iron Chef of Iron chefs. An alum of Nobu and countless other restaurants, he now has several eponymous eateries (Philadelphia, NYC) and is in the works with (we hear) three more just this year. Morimoto, unlike other Food Network personalities, however, has the actual cooking skills to draw serious eaters, rather than celeb-gawkers. During the opening weeks, he’s been a constant presence in the kitchen, and spends a considerable amount of time in Napa. (Fellow FN personality Tyler Florence is opening a restaurant next door in the coming months).
Here’s the lowdown:
– The menu is classic Morimoto. Cold Appetizer: Toro tartare ($25), Tuna pizza ($16), wagyu beef carpaccio ($21). Hot Appetizer: Bone marrow with five sices ($16); beef tartare with asparagus flan ($18); fig tempure with foie gras peanut butter sauce ($16); kakuni, a 10-hour roasted pork belly with rice congee, soy-scallion jus ($15). Entrees: Whole Roasted Lobster, $35; Duck, duck, goose (duck confit, sliced duck breast, frozen foie gras with a duck egg ($36); Angry Chicken ($26), Wagyu beef (up to $56) Sea Urchin Carbonara ($28); Ishi Yaki Buri Bop, yellowtail on rice cooked tableside; ‘Pork Chop and Applesauce’ with kimchee, bacon and ginger apple puree ($32). Oysters $18 for six. Maki: California roll with snow crab meat ($7); crispy salmon skin roll; eel avocado roll. Soups and Noodles: Ramen ($14); Tofu Miso ($14), Duck Meatball Soup ($14). Desserts are yawn-worthy.
– You’re here for two things: Seafood (especially sushi and sashimi) and the Waygu beef. Morimoto is a notorious stickler about his fish, usually flying in exceptional seafood from Japan. Waygu is a highly marbled, incredibly tasty kind of beef. It’s the breed of cattle used for kobe beef, but typically from America (and therefore not allowed to be called Kobe, which only comes from Japan).
– Okay, there’s one other thing Morimoto does really well, and that’s duck. Duck, Duck, Goose is dish of duck confit, foie gras (there’s a ridiculous amount of foie gras on Morimoto’s menu), sliced duck breast, and fried rice with a duck egg on top.
– Service is impeccable, if a bit young. We had a parade of servers bringing us dishes, and some seemed undertrained on what they were serving us, though very accommodating. We were also impressed when we couldn’t located the foie gras in Duck, Duck, Goose, the dish was whisked away and we received a completely new entree with a plethora of foie gras.
– Overall, the food quality was very good, but not life-altering. Presentation is awe-inspiring, but the taste of of the food just didn’t quite live up to what you’re seeing. The duck breast was a bit dry, the fried rice uninspiring. Beef belly with congee was a favorite dish, the toro tuna entertaining, and much care was taken with the oysters and sashimi.
– Sound-levels are a huge problem. The glass and concrete make for a noisy echo chamber, and talking quickly turns into shouting at your table mate. The open kitchen/hallway makes for an awkward entrance, as servers spill into the narrow walkway, chatting and blocking the way. Another huge issue are the plastic chopsticks — did anyone realize that oily pieces of raw fish slide off with a “plop” into your soy sauce, with little chance of recovery?
– The hip-factor is fairly intense: Thus far, this is the spot to be seen in Napa. The bar quickly fills up, as does the sushi bar along the open kitchen. Lounge seats are prime real-estate, and you’ll see plenty of the valley’s movers schmoozing at their tables. So dress the part. In other words, don’t wear the Target pumps.
The restaurant’s off to a solid start, but whether Morimoto can continue to control the quality while opening more restaurants and maintaining his existing properties is yet to be seen. As one of my dining companions said, “It’s the kiss of death, opening that many restaurants.”
Morimoto, 610 Main St., Napa, (707) 252-1600
