The restaurant portion of Latitude Island Grill in Rohnert Park has closed. A sign on the restaurant’s door states that they will no longer be serving lunch or dinner but will be open on Friday and Saturday nights as a club and will host special events. Telephone calls to the restaurant were not answered and Open Table is not accepting reservations for the space. Located on Robert’s Lake, Latitude opened in 2003 and was one of several restaurant owned by Left Coast Restaurant Group, which includes Brannans, Flatiron Grill and Checkers in Calistoga.
Shimo Modern Steak| Healdsburg

CLOSED
Wood-barreled knives honed to razor-sharpness shimmer on the table. Set atop a stark white napkin, they are the lone characters in Shimo’s opening set. Meant to dazzle and awe — and maybe intimidate a little — the hand-forged Japanese cutlery made especially for Chef Douglas Keane’s new steakhouse send a rather pointed message: We’re not kidding around here. The cut on our server’s finger from an earlier run-in with the blade serves as fair warning.
Named for the glistening frost, as well as the white marbling of beef, Shimo Modern Steak, is the third Healdsburg restaurant for Keane. With business partner Nick Peyton (who opened St. Helena’s Market in 2002), the two have built Michelin-two-starred Cyrus into Sonoma’s hautest eatery and both run the more everyday Healdsburg Bar and Grill.
At the helm is Chef de Cuisine Kolin Vazzoler who brings a fresh perspective to the menu, but pays homage to many of Keane’s meticulously executed trademarks — tweezer-perfect plating, table-side composition of plates and ever-present Asian flavors. The interior has been minimally transformed, though careful touches, like reclaimed wood tables and the honed steak knives speak to a more complete vision.
Beef, is obviously what’s for dinner here. Keane’s concept is for smaller shared portions of meat cooked on the bone whenever possible. It’s a noble concept, but one that Keane admits will take a bit of education.Weighty cuts like New York Strip, filet and Porterhouse are brought in from Allen Brother’s Steak in Chicago. A 24 ounce bone-in New York Strip for two (or three) runs $94, which at first blush can be some serious sticker shock. If you break down the cost, however, it’s $47 per person or $4 per ounce. By comparison, Allen Brothers sells their USDA Prime bone-in for about $2.60 per ounce retail.
Australian Wagyu is $10 per ounce, but boneless cuts are significantly less (about $52) and the Korean BBQ tri-tip, which is one of the most flavorful choices, runs $23. Fish and chicken are also offered and a prix-fixe prime rib supper is served from 3-8pm Sundays.
Steaks are both wet and dry aged, then cooked sous-vide and finally seared off with seasoned butter. The Japanese knives, which are taken away upon seating and returned with the steaks, seem almost redundant when meat is this tender. A house steak sauce is served complimentary, but Bordelaise, Bearnaise, ponzu, blue cheese and (best!) seaweed yuzu butter are a la carte.
Sides are equally well-thought out, but will likely undergo some continued tweaking. Best bets include:
– Cheddar fontina biscuits drizzled with steak butter (the tasty remainders after steaks are seared in the pan) ($6)
– Twice baked potatoes: Potato gnocchi baked with cheese, bacon and white sauce ($12)
– Ginger shiso dashi with rock shrimp shumai ($12)
– A deconstructed shrimp cocktail with horseradish pudding, tomato syrup and edible flowers ($13)
– Tempura oysters with pickled lettuce and ginger sauce ($16)
Dessert is clean and simple: A palate cleanser of tart granite, usually, followed by a green tea Krispy treat.
Keane has hired Jaren Keller (formerly of The French Laundry) as Maitre’d, so service standards are already impeccable and the wine program is equally impressive (and includes sake). A full bar features cocktails and sake-inspired drinks.
Overall, there’s still some polishing to do, but once fully-honed, Shimo should easily be one of Chef Keane’s sharpest endeavors.
The Price: Expect to pay about $150 or so for two people, with steaks running about $35 to $40 per portion.
Shimo Modern Steakhouse, 241 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-6000. Open Wednesday through Saturday from 5-9pm, Sunday from 3-8pm (prime rib supper). Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Mutineer Comedy Fest + Food Trucks
What: Mutineer Comedy Festival + Water Relief Fundraiser for ‘A Child’s Right’ When: Saturday, December 11 from 7- 11:30 p.m. Where: Jacuzzi Vineyards, 24724 Arnold Drive, Sonoma 95476 – Map: http://is.gd/ivopE Ticket Details: $35 a ticket- http://mutineer.ticketleap.com/mutineercomedyfest/ Attendees will have an opportunity to try Jacuzzi Family Vineyards wines as well as sample craft beers from Sierra Nevada, Lagunitas, Firestone Walker, and delicious cocktails featuring Don Roberto Tequila, complimentary with their ticket purchase. Food truck fare will be available to purchase.
A swan song for local goose
Like roasted swan, stuffed peacock and the holiday boar’s head, roast goose has become a quaint anachronism more suited to Dickensian novels than modern dinner tables.
Which isn’t all that surprising considering their notoriously ill dispositions. And difficultly in processing. And comparative lankiness to turkey. Suffice to say not a whole lot of farmers are signing up for that kind of headache.
One Petaluma family has long been up to the challenge, but after this year is giving it up for good as well.
For nearly two decades, Sylvia Mavalwalla of S&B Farm was the goose lady, raising up to 250 heritage geese each year for folks like Alice Waters to serve to folks like Prince Charles. Word is, the bonny prince said it was the best goose he’d ever eaten. “We used to sell out our reservations by May,” said Mavalwalla of her cult-like foodie following.
But over the last few years, Sylvia’s arthritis has precluded her from the goose game. Instead she’s turned her attentions to the more docile chicken (she has a thriving immigrant clientele who “don’t like dead chickens from the grocery store”) and several head of grass-fed beef.
Hoping to keep up the family tradition, daughter-in-law Ellyn picked up the mantle with the help of her own teenage daughter. With Sylvia’s oversight, the junior Mavalwalla ladies raised a bumper crop of 38 White Emden and Heritage American Buff geese in 2010 — the only commercial operation in the North Bay to do so and one of the few remaining flocks of the dwindling Buffs.
Each of the pasture-raised geese has will be hand-processed by the family and a group of helpful friends at the farm — which takes about 35 minutes or so per bird.
This will, however, be the geese’s swan song. After this season, Ellyn said they’ll no longer be raising geese commercially on the farm. “We’re not on the property and it’s just too hard,” she said. But they are willing to help someone else learn the trade. “I would love to see someone get a fresh-dressed goose on their table next year,” she said, with an offer of help and guidance.
About 25 of the geese are still available from the Mavalwalla’s flock if you move fast. The geese will cost about $6.75 per pound, with each goose weighing about 10-17 pounds. email them at sbfarm@me.com if you’re interested in a fresh goose…or, you know, raising them next year.
Have you ever had a fresh goose?
Sunny Eggs, Crispy Polenta & Creamy Mushrooms
The culinary leaders of the free world – and on this the kitchens of both Republican and Democratic White Houses agree, so who am I to argue – particularly enjoy pairing their big, rich Chards with either corn or scallops. I know this because, as I explained in yesterday’s post, one of my favorite vintners of kick-ass Chard supplies the very same wine that I buy to the White House Ombudsman, and the official Big Cheese menus resultant are posted all over the tasting room walls.
Wild scallops are not hard to find, but while I adore scallops, my wife inexplicably doesn’t; she loves seafood, but not shell fish, which strikes me as particularly peculiar – it’s a little like saying that you love meat but not pork. Come to think, she won’t eat pork either, so maybe she inherited some deeply entrenched, hard-wired Jewish gene just can’t kick kosher? In any case, I wanted to make something really easy and kid-friendly, and I still had leftover polenta from a recent edition of “Just Three Ingredients”, so why press my luck? Just go with the corn, try to do it with only three ingredients again, and make sure to chill the Chard.
Our family shares a love of breakfast-for-dinner, and our friends at Wyeth Acres had just delivered some just-laid eggs, so all I had to do was manufacture an excuse for a vegetable – the earthy, meaty, sweet taste of sauteed mushrooms, softened with a little cream and seasoned, sounded just right, what with the damp weather, the rich wine, and my limited prep time… This turned out to be a really easy recipe as well as a good way to leverage leftovers; the only downside is the number of pans, but I think you could quite easily do the polenta first, then the mushrooms, hold them both, and then finish with the eggs, all in one pan.
Sunny Eggs with Crispy Polenta and a Creamy Mushroom Sauce
1. Get your pans hot. Then, rewind time and spread the leftover polenta from another night’s dinner onto a lightly oiled sheet tray and stick it in the fridge (yes, I actually did this the other night – it’s second nature now, I almost always double the polenta recipe specifically so I can do this; the possibilities are endless, the effort minimal, and I get a freebie meal for the kiddos.) Carefully turn the sheet of polenta onto a cutting board and cut in triangles (or squares, or use a cookie cutter for fun shapes – the kids will love it).
2. Cook the polenta, the very flat tray-side down, in a little butter or olive oil, over medium-low heat, until it forms a crunchy, golden-brown crust. This can take some time – better to cook over lower than higher heat.
3. While the polenta is cooking, wash and thinly slice a bunch of mushrooms. I used criminis (I like the vaguely truffle-like quality of criminis with the corn and eggs, but anything, or even a mix, would be great). Sautee with a little butter over medium heat until the ‘shrooms have lost most of their volume, their water is gone, and they start to color up. Season liberally with salt and pepper. If this wasn’t “Just Three” and I still didn’t need to use eggs, I’d say toss a teaspoon or so of fresh thyme leaves in with them – thyme and mushrooms do amazing things for one another; I’ll stick to the rules, but if you have thyme in your garden, use it.
4. While all this is going on – it sounds like a lot happening at the same time, but it is all really easy stuff – pour the eggs, two by two, into small nonstick pans along with a little butter and a few drops of water. Cover with foil and cook over very low heat.
5. When the polenta is done and the eggs are nearly so, deglaze the mushrooms with a few tablespoons of heavy cream (again, if I had another ingredient, I’d use a little white wine first, cook it off, and then add the cream). As soon as the cream bubbles and begins to thicken, plate and serve.
Tyler Florence’s Rotisserie & Wine | Napa


CLOSED 2012
It’s no secret that Food Network celebrity and culinary prowess usually have an inverse relationship. Most of the true heavy-hitters were thrown overboard long ago, cast into the backwaters of basic cable or pushed into the early-morning lineup. They weren’t camera friendly, used complicated ingredients and made dishes that took more than 30 minutes. God forbid.
Tyler Florence has always been the exception. With his dude-ish affability, lack of shtick and uncomplicated affection for the kinds of people actually like to eat, he is a chef’s chef with proletariat cred. And his new Napa restaurant, Rotisserie and Wine, is very much a restaurant for the people.
It’s been a busy year for Florence. R&W is his second Bay Area to restaurant to open in 2010. San Francisco’s Wayfare Tavern opened in November and he plans to open El Paseo, with rocker Sammy Hagar later this year. He has also opened two kitchen stores (in Napa and Mill Valley).
With such a whirlwind schedule, it would be all to easy to phone in Rotisserie and Wine — a fast-casual concept restaurant focused on rotisserie meats and Southern-influenced sides. Instead, Florence over-delivers with a spot-on line-up of dishes that makes decision-making downright difficult. Fortunately prices are reasonable enough for excessive generosity…
Menu Bests =
– Cheese Puffs ($3 each): Bacon mornay and melted cheese ooze from a cocoon of fried dough.
– Fried Scrapple ($5): Don’t ask what it is. Servers have been carefully trained to dance around the fact that scrapple is, in fact, everything but the squeal. Offal, scraps and other goodies are mixed with cornmeal and fried. Think of it as a piggy hush puppy.
– Duck Confit Waffles ($18): Chicken and waffles gets a Napa twist with fried duck confit, quince soffrito and endive served atop fluffy waffles and maple syrup. Unforgettable.
– Beef & Bones ($28): Prime rib eye steak, bread-crumb topped bone marrow and Yorkshire pudding. Watery horseradish needs work, but it’s a small complaint between mouthfuls of perfectly-cooked beef.
– Whipped yams with banana ($5): Pureed yams meet match with a hint of banana vinegar, yogurt and crispy yam skins.
– David Little’s Potatoes ($7): Baby ‘taters soaked in rotisserie drippings. Schmaltz-tastic.
– Cookies and milk: On the “glad we asked” list, this kindergarten favorite includes warm ginger snaps and a bacon-fat infused shortbread as heavenly to smell as it is to eat. On the side, malted panna cotta.
– Dark and Stormy: Rum ice cream, ginger beer and lime.
The Vibe: Cracker Barrel meets Pottery Barn. In a good way. There’s a homey mix-matchiness, reclaimed wood, lots of jars and the staff in checkered shirts and jeans. But way before it gets too hoedown, Rotisserie and Wine remembers where it is (Napa’s Riverfront) and classes it up with rural/urban-minimal touches (concrete flooring, wine barrel chandeliers) and reigns it all in.
The Scene: An open kitchen and bar runs nearly the length of the restaurant, making it friendly to single diners and cocktailers. The price-point and menu makes it plenty friendly for kids and families.
The Drinks: A rotating lineup of syrups mixed with soda or sparkling wine are refreshing starters. Beet syrup isn’t quite as alarming as it sounds. Plenty of local and not-so-local wines by the bottle or glass. Anthill Farms syrah shows someone’s paying attention.
The Cost: Two “snacks”, two appetizers, two sodas, two glasses of wine, one entree (suggested for two), two sides and two desserts for a relatively thrifty (for Napa) $136.
Rotisserie and Wine, 720 Main St., Napa, 254-8500. Open nightly from 5pm to 11pm. Lunch anticipated in the coming months. Closed Dec. 24/25/31.
Aunt Ellie’s Lemon Bars | Holiday Cookies
These easy-to-make lemon bars are a crowd-pleaser with their bold flavor, citrusy aroma and light crust.
Aunt Ellie’s Lemon Bars
For the crust:
• 1 pkg lemon cake mix
• 1/3C canola oil
• 1 egg
• zest of 1 lemon
For the filling:
• 8oz pkg cream cheese (softened)
• 1/3C sugar
• zest of 1 lemon
• 3TBSP lemon juice
• 1 egg
Directions
Preheat oven to 375. Mix the crust ingredients together until crumbly then set aside 1 cup of the mixture. Lightly pat the remainder in a glass baking dish (approx 11”X13”). Bake for 15 minutes. Meantime mix the sugar and cream cheese til well blended. Add the remaining filling ingredients and mix well. Spread the filling on the baked crust and sprinkle the cup of remaining crust mix on top. Bake for 15 minutes more. Cool and cut into small squares. Refrigerate until served.
Sebastopol Applesauce Cookies
A healthier take on holiday cookies, this recipe doesn’t use butter — substituting applesauce and a bit of oil. It also incorporates whole wheat flour for a hearty, cake-like drop cookie. I think it would be great to add some dried apples or raisins to the recipe for some added intrigue.
“This recipe came about by my experimenting to get the same flavor as Twin Hill Apple Farm’s Apple Bread that they have at their farm in Sebastopol.” — Maria Ferjancsik
Sebastopol Applesauce Cookies
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 cup sugar
1 cup smooth applesauce
½ cup oil
2 eggs
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon vanilla
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder
Cinnamon sugar for top of cookies:
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift together whole wheat flour, cinnamon, cloves, salt, baking soda, and baking powder. In separate bowl, mix together sugar, applesauce, oil, eggs, and vanilla. Add flour mixture to applesauce mixture, stirring well to combine. Take walnut-sized spoonfuls of batter and place on ungreased baking sheets, leaving 1-2 inches between cookies. Flatten slightly with a spoon. Combine ¼ cup sugar with 1 teaspoon cinnamon and sprinkle each cookie generously with cinnamon sugar. Bake 10-14 minutes in oven. Let cool 10 minutes on baking sheets before moving to wire wracks to cool completely.
Brown Butter Spoon Cookies | Holiday Cookies
These are amazing little shortbread-like cookies that get better after a few days. The brown butter gives them a nutty, rich flavor and little flecks of brown in the final cookies. This recipe, from Heather Leidner, originally ran in Gourmet magazine and has been tweaked for her family.
Brown Butter Spoon Cookies
- 2 sticks (1 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 2 teaspoons vanilla
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/8 teaspoon salt, slightly rounded
- 1/3 cup fruit preserves (your choice, I love strawberry and blackberry)
Fill kitchen sink with about 2 inches of cold water. Melt butter in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until butter turns golden with a nutlike fragrance and flecks on bottom of pan turn a rich caramel brown, 10 to 12 minutes. (Butter will initially foam, then dissipate. A thicker foam will appear and cover the surface just before butter begins to brown; stir more frequently toward end of cooking.) Place pan in sink to stop cooking, then cool, stirring frequently, until butter starts to look opaque, about 4 minutes. Remove pan from sink and stir in sugar and vanilla.
Whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl and stir into butter mixture until a dough forms. Shape into a ball, wrap with plastic wrap, and let stand at cool room temperature 1 to 2 hours (to allow flavors to develop).
Form and bake cookies:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325°F.
Press a piece of dough into bowl of teaspoon, flattening top, then slide out and place, flat side down, on an ungreased baking sheet. (Dough will feel crumbly, but will become cohesive when pressed.) Continue forming cookies and arranging on sheet. Bake cookies until just pale golden, 8 to 15 minutes. Cool cookies on sheet on a rack 5 minutes, then transfer cookies to rack and cool completely, about 30 minutes.
Assemble cookies:
While cookies cool, heat preserves in a small saucepan over low heat until just runny, then pour through a sieve into a small bowl, pressing hard on solids, and cool completely.
Spread the flat side of a cookie with a thin layer of preserves. Sandwich with flat side of another cookie. Continue with remaining cookies and preserves, then let stand until set, about 45 minutes. Transfer cookies to an airtight container and wait 2 days before eating.
Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Waffle Cookies | Holiday Cookies
These are amazingly fast and easy to make. They’re best still warm.