Sonoma County is awash with great regional Mexican dishes. From Oaxacan moles and Jaliscan birria to the street foods of Mexico City, fish tacos of the Baja peninsula and ancient flavors of Yucatan we’re a caldera of Latin flavors.
So BiteClub asks: Where is the best Mexican food in Sonoma County Restaurants?
I’ll pick the best 10 comments below and see if I agree…
Here are some of my favorites…
Moles: I’m pretty convinced that no one can beat Agave (Healdsburg) and their sister restaurant Casa De Mole.
Tlayuda: I absolutely loved this version of a Mexican pizza in Windsor.
Chilaquiles: I recently went on a hunt, and was blow away by a version at Viola Pastry Boutique and Jeffrey’s Hillside
Fresh Tortillas: Freshly made, these are by far the best corn tortillas.
Tamales: El Molino Central are the tamales to beat. Tacos Dorados: I’m a die-hard fan of Chelino’s.
Carnitas: Lola’s is pretty rock solid.
Chiles Rellenos: Las Palmas Fish Tacos: Las Palmas Burritos: La Texanita Guacamole: El Michoacana
Interior construction at Belly Left Coast Kitchen and Tap Room in Santa Rosa
Belly Left Coast Kitchen in Santa Rosa
A rock star chef is heading up Belly Left Coast Kitchen and Tap Room in downtown Santa Rosa. But not thatrock star chef.
Slated for a spring 2013, owner Chef Gray Rollin, who’s been Tour Chef for the likes of Motley Crue, KISS, the Black Eyed Peas, Katy Perry and most recently Linkin Park, is rehabbing the former Checkers restaurant (523 Fourth Street) to showcase a hearty menu of locally-inspired comfort foods from throughout the Pacific.
Already booked for several weeks of touring, however, Gray has tapped partner and co-exec chef Reino Cruz and GM Pablo Scurto to get the restaurant ready for a mid-March opening. All three have worked at Tres Hombres, with Cruz’ most recent stint at Lark Creek restaurant Yankee Pier in Mill Valley.
Look for dishes like Three Hog Mac and Cheese with chorizo, smoked bacon and pancetta; pulled pork sliders and beer-braised sausages; tuna poke, Crab Louie and Dungeness Crab Cakes, the “Belly Burger”, crispy braised pork belly, barbecue ribs, chorizo Brussels Sprouts and churro fondue along with 20 beers on tap.
Stay tuned for more details.
Interior construction at Belly Left Coast Kitchen and Tap Room in Santa Rosa
SHED under construction in Healdsburg, January 2013. Click for a larger version.
CONSTRUCTION REPORT: BiteClub caught up with Healdsburg Shedowners Cindy Daniel and Dough Lipton, along with General Manger Kenny Rochford (previously of Medlock Ames) for a quick hard-hat look at the “modern grange” under construction just off the Healdsburg plaza.
SHED under construction in Healdsburg, January 2013. Click for a larger version.
Though there’s still plenty of work to do before its March 2013 opening, Daniel has already carved out spaces for local produce, a grain mill, larder, cafe, fermentation “bar” and event space upstairs (with a kitchen any chef would covet). In a breathless discussion of what’s to come at the 9,700 square-foot project, Daniel, Lipton and Rochford are clearly working from an evolving wish of ideas that encompasses everything from SHEDtalks, and worm-composting kits to bee-keeping and salumi classes, churning ice cream and generally embracing the homesteading and farm to table movement.
SHED construction in Healdsburg
Former Chez Panisser, Niki Ford will be overseeing the facility’s culinary program and the trio have consulted with many local farmers, winemakers, historians, makers, keepers and producers to make the experience of SHED as interactive and authentic as possible. “We want to connect into the community and support the people growing our food,” said Daniel.
Here’s a quick list of some of the things to come from SHED in the coming months…
– Grain salads inspired by Middle Eastern and Indian cuisines
– Homemade yogurt and slow cooked porridge
– A flower market
– Indoor, outdoor seating
– A specially-blended SHED espresso from Flying Goat
– Pastry Bar
– Locally sourced grains, milled onsite
– Kombucha on tap
– Classes on canning or bee-keeping, among other “granny arts” programs, nutritional programs
– A housewares department with tagines, canning supplies and cast iron cookware
– “Persian” breakfast, molasses donuts
– Smoked meats
– Worm bins and compost teas
A Chipotle Mexican Grill is slated for Coddingtown in 2013.
A Chipotle Mexican Grill is slated for Coddingtown in 2013.
Chipotle Mexican Grill is confirmed plans to open at Coddingtown Mall in Santa Rosa, according to a company spokesman.
Rumors have been swirling for months, especially after the socially-conscious fast food eatery announced plans to open in Petaluma and Rohnert Park last year. With the restaurant’s march northward, Coddingtown Mall seemed a natural fit, with ongoing renovations attracting large-scale national chains including Target, Whole Foods and BJ’s Restaurant.
The Coddingtown restaurant is slated to open this summer. Simon spokesperson Kim Hall was unable elaborate, stating that the mall did not yet have a signed lease.
Chipotle Mexican Grill has about 1,200 restaurants nationwide and has won over many fast-food critics with its dedication to organic, sustainable foods and eco-conscious attitude. “With more than a third of America currently obese, a healthier eating movement is under way and Chipotle is seizing the reins. This is exactly why revenue jumped by 26% in the first quarter and comparable-store sales were up almost 13%,” said Motley Fool in its analysis of the growing company.
The 10-week pop-up restaurant at Omelette Express (112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa) run by local butcheress, Berry Salinas, is adding Friday night festivities with a $15 prix fixe dinner (recent meals included pork belly with creamy grits, hand pies with Meyer Lemon Cheesecake), wine and beer by the glass and rockin’ tunes from the North Bay Hootenany.
Check out The Crux on Jan. 18 and Marty O’Reilly and Sean Carscadden on the 25th from 7-9pm.
They’ll still have Sunday fried chicken pick-up dinners from 5-7p.m. at 555 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa. More details at butcherandcook.com.
Check out updated details on the Barlow Center Sebastopol
Current tenants at Sebastopol’s Barlow Center, now slated for a spring 2013 opening.
THE BARLOW: Estimated opening April 2013 (in Phases)
The Concept: An 222,000 square-foot artisan marketplace and production facility
The Pitch: “The Barlow will also incorporate a carefully chosen selection of restaurants to create a comfortable, fun atmosphere where the community can come together and enjoy, art, wine and time with one another.”
Cost: $23.5 million
The Developer: Barney Aldridge, real estate developer
Major Tenants: Kosta Browne, Taylor Maid, Community Market
The Barlow, named after an old apple plant that once stood on the site, has been plugging away since announcing its intentions in 2010. After a number of delays (including a fire) construction is near completion and tenant improvement permitting began in earnest in October 2013. Most recently Noah and Mirjam Bolmer of Occidental’s Barley and Hops started tenant-improvements for their micro-brewery project, Warped Brewing along with Taylor Maid Farms, who are beginning interior construction on a coffee bar and roasting facility.
Other tenants who’ve announced their intention to be involved include Other food and wine tenants include Kosta Browne Winery, Guayaki Yerba Mate, Wine Gap Wines, Community Market, Spirit Works Distillery, Village Bakery, MacPhail Family Wines, FEED Sonoma, La Follette Wines, Marimar Estates, Whole Spice and Gypsy Bay Laurel.
In late December, Sub Zero Ice Cream and antiquarian bookseller Ben Kinmont were also announced. Sub Zero is a Utah-based ice cream chain that uses liquid nitrogen to make “instant” ice cream flavors for customers. Ben Kinmont is the nation’s foremost antiquarian bookseller specializing in 15th to early 19th works on gastronomy and related topics. John Stewart and Duskie Estes of Zazu have also announced their intention to lease space at the Barlow which would include a space for production of their Black Pig Meat Company.
The Buzz: There’s been plenty of press about tenants who’ve planned to move in, then changed their minds. That’s not too surprising, since many paid nominal fees early on to “reserve” a spot. Most folks are curious to see whether the mix of production and retail will be a big enough draw to casual shoppers, but there’s a lot of excitement in Sebastopol about this massive project — BiteClub included.
Chilaquiles, pronounced chil-a-KEE-les are a tried-and-truer hangover remedy you’ll be hard-pressed not to love. Translated as either “broken up old sombrero” or “herbs in a chili broth”, they’re a smart way to use up old corn tortillas as well as a hearty morning repast, and pretty easy to find throughout Sonoma County.
Despite being deadly simple to make, but hard to get just right — soft and crispy at the same time. Whether soaked overnight or given a quick spritz, the idea is to give stale corn tortillas a quick fry, then a leisurely bath in either salsa or mole until they’re pliable. Scramble in some eggs, top with cheese, sour cream, avocados and a side of beans and you’re fueled up for the day.
Most taquerias serve them for breakfast (and even into lunch), but snazzier spots are also getting in on the action. Here are some favorite places to find this Mexican morning treat. Prices range from $9 to $20, depending on what you add on.
Uptown Chilaquiles
Chilaquiles with some chef-inspired flair.
Chilaquiles at Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe in Santa Rosa
Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe:Another reader favorite, the secret here is the sauce. Chef Madura does a blend of tomatillos, cilantro, chilies and garlic that hugs the fried tortilla strips. Eggs and beans are served on the side.2901 4th Street Santa Rosa, (707) 546-6317.
Gypsy Cafe:A bowl of eggs scrambled with tortilla strips, cheddar, red tomato chile sauce, avocado and cilantro pesto with toast. 162 North Main Street Sebastopol, (707) 861-3825.
Flavor Bistro: They’ve just started serving breakfast Wednesday through Sunday, and chilaquiles is on the menu with a zesty red sauce. 96 Old Courthouse Square Santa Rosa, (707) 573-9600.
Downtown Chilaquiles
Demolished chilaquiles
More authentic Mexican versions of chilaquiles, made with traditional ingredients.
La Texanita: The chilaquiles that started a quest for great chilaquiles began at this unassuming Roseland eatery years ago. This authentic version is simple and straightforward, served with either red or green sauce. Go for the green and add some carnitas to really spice things up. (1667 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa).
Las Palmas: Readers raved about this real-deal version at one of Santa Rosa’s best Mexican taquerias. 415 Santa Rosa Avenue Santa Rosa, (707) 546-3091.
Agave: I’m a huge fan of the mole, made daily by Octavio Diaz’ Oaxacan mother in Healdsburg. Their version of chilaquiles comes with tasajo, thinly sliced grilled beef. 1063 Vine Street Healdsburg, (707) 433-2411.
El Molino Central:Everything here is done from scratch, including the stone-ground masa for the ultra-fresh tortillas. They’re thick and toothy, with a spicy roasted tomato and chipotle sauce, soft scrambled eggs and Rancho Gordo beans on the side. Chilaquiles “El Cardenal”, $10.50, available before 11a.m.
Just weeks after closing, the former Fresh Choice soup and salad eatery in Rohnert Park has reopened, causing not a little bit of head-scratching from local diners. Some of whom never realized it closed.
According to the SacBee, after Fresh Choice slid into Chapter 7 liquidation in November (closing dozens of restaurants including the RP and Santa Rosa Plaza locations), former company president David Boyd reincarnated four locations in Cupertino, San Leandro, Rohnert Park and Sacramento as California Fresh in late December and early January.
The Bee says more California Fresh locations will reopen in the coming weeks.
One Fresh Choice that isn’t slated for re-opening, however, is Santa Rosa Plaza. Spokeswoman Kim Hall says they’re in talks with a number of businesses for the now-vacant location, but California Fresh — at least for now — isn’t one of them.
Also closed is Sweet River Grill at Coddingtown Mall in Santa Rosa. The restaurant quietly shuttered in late December after being at the location for nearly 26 years. Hall, says “He made the decision that it was time for him to close and move on to another chapter in his life. He had a great run for many years.”
Gone too, as of January 1, 2013 are California Thai and Sapporo Japanese Restaurant at the Brickyard Center.
Healdsburg chefs Ari Rosen (Campo Fina, Scopa), Dustin Valette (Dry Creek Kitchen), Jeff Mall (ZIN) and Mark Stark (Willi’s Seafood, Bravas) will host intimate Chef’s Table dinners at Relish Culinary Center January 14-Feb. 4, 2013.
Rosen will feature his “perfect polenta” and handmade papardelle pasta on Jan 14 at 6p.m., $98, (14 Matheson St., Healdsburg) followed by Valette (vanilla brown butter pot de creme) on Jan. 21, Mall (Jan. 28, featuring Zin-braised Liberty duck) and Stark (Feb. 4, Maine Lobster rolls).
But hold onto your pint glasses because there’s more. On tap will be a revival of the original New Albion Ale, recognized by beer experts as the “original American craft beer”. McAuliffe and Koch resurrected the brew with New Albion yeast preserved at the University of California since 1977 using the original recipe. Russian River Brew Pub will be serving the brew “that evening and hopefully for a few days after,” according to their Facebook page.
The Boston Beer Company will release the ale commercially this month, the first time its been available in more than 30 years.
McAuliffe, locals may remember, founded New Albion Brewing Company in Sonoma in 1976. Although it closed in 1983, McAuliffe is considered by many to be the inspiration for the American microbrewery movement.
All profits from the beer will go directly to Jack McAuliffe. The beer will be served at special events during the 2012 Great American Beer Festival (October 13), in Denver, CO and available nationwide beginning in January of 2013. New Albion Ale will be available in six-packs with a suggested retail price of $7.99.
