Napa News: Rotisserie Closes, Ubuntu in Limbo, Quixote for Sale

By biteclub
Ubuntu
Quixote Winery
Quixote Winery

Much ado about Napa with three major shakeups reported this week. First up is the official shutter of celebrity chef Tyler Florence’s Rotisserie and Wine, according to Inside Scoop.The restaurant lasted only a year, going on “hiatus” last winter after several critical pans, a failing grade from the health department and the early departure of former Ubuntu chef, Jeremy Fox.

And on the subject of Ubuntu–the much-lauded vegetarian restaurant that also went on hiatus last winter–the restaurant may be changing changing hands. Grubstreet leaked the news that Terra and Ame owners Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani are in discussions to take over the space. So far, there’s no final word from owner Sandy Lawrence as to Ubuntu’s future.

Meanwhile, if you’ve got a cool $35 million burning a hole in your pocket, the Friedensreich Hundertwasser-designed winery, Quixote, is up for sale. Wine legend Carl Doumani’s 42-acre Stags Leap property also includes a lakefront home, according to Paul Franson’s NapaLife.

Jaded Toad opens

By biteclub

Sooie! The former Mamma Pig’s barbecue in Windsor is once again smoking as the Jaded Toad opens for business June 7, 2012.

On the menu are baby back ribs, barbecued chicken, sliders, cornbread, steamed clams, salmon, and pan-fried frog legs according to owner Leo Tocchini. The culinary school grad and Tony Roma’s alum will be manning the grill daily, after giving up his gig as director of concessions for Santa Rosa Entertainment Group, a chain of movie theaters owned by his family.

Locals say the vibe is “cautiously optimistic” as the restaurant starts service. Mamma Pigs closed just months after opening when opening chef and former Mirepoix chef Matthew Bousquet and his wife left suddenly, also closing their cafe, Bistro M.

Jaded Toad: 275 Windsor River Rd, Windsor, (707) 838-8336.  http://www.facebook.com/JadedToad

Glen Ellen Star | Glen Ellen Restaurant

By biteclub
Glen Ellen Star features local produce and meats using a wood-fired oven in the heart of the Sonoma Valley. Heather Irwin/PD

On balmy spring nights it’s not surprising to find more people waiting outside the tiny Glen Ellen Star than seated inside. With just eight dining tables and a handful of seats around the open galley kitchen, every inch is prime real estate (update: A new seating area has been added)

At the glowing heart of the restaurant: Chef Ari Weiswasser’s 650-degree custom-built wood oven that perfumes the entire block with its smoke. Combining classic French techniques, razor-focused attention to detail, and exotic Mediterranean and Middle Eastern spices in every dish, Glen Ellen Star is one of Wine Country’s perennial must-tries.

On the menu: Cast iron quick bread with local feta and zaatar ($6); spring pea soup with ricotta gnudi (a sort of large gnocchi), mint, and mascarpone ($10) that’s the sweet essence of spring in a bowl. Tapping (dad-in-law) Mike Benziger’s biodynamic farm for much of the produce, the wood oven vegetables section is a revolving lineup of whatever is in season — from fava beans with brown sugar bacon marmalade and golden beets with harissa crumble to fennel crusted fennel with chili and Meyer lemon oil ($8). A special of grilled zucchini with spicy yogurt and crisp pita was outstanding. Pizzas steal the show, with a simple Margherita ($12) or White Pizza with guanciale and arugula ($16) easily feeding two. If you’re up for something more substantial, Brick Chicken ($21) goes beyond the usual pallid poultry with tender meat and a crackling crisped skin seasoned with urfa, a Turkish pepper. Roasted lamb meatballs, couscous with dried fruit and a sweet-savory soffrito of tomatoes, onions and peppers ($18) turns this Italian standard into something extraordinary.

Everything’s available for takeout, including dessert, half-pints of house-churned ice cream in flavors like malted milk, maple vanilla bourbon, salted peanut butter, espresso and strawberry sorbet ($6). The wine list is well-curated to reflect the food and ambiance and include locals (Benziger, Imagery, Gundlach Bundschu), nearby (Radio Couteau, County Line, Copain) and a handful of Italian, French and Germans.

Don’t expect much too formality, however, as the blue-aproned Weiswasser and his staff turn out expertly charred pizzas, roasted lamb meatballs and padrone peppers from the oven. Nearly every table is within view of the buzzing pick-up station and its a challenge for staff to maneuver through tight quarters — especially with piping hot dishes from the oven. Expect a few errant nudges from neighbors and staff as part of the charm…and this star to continue to rise.

13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. Reservations strongly recommended, 343-1384. Bar available first-come, first-serve. Open for dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30 to 9pm, Friday and Saturday until 9:30pm.

Farewell to Foie Gras Dinner

By biteclub

Foie gras is going the way of the Dodo in California. Meaning come July 1, it disappears off menus, can’t legally be purchased in the state and will likely be driven deep underground as gourmet fetish. Like wild Russian sturgeon caviar or shark fin soup.

To bid farewell, Petite Syrah hosts an all-foie dinner on Thursday, June 7.

On the six-course menu, frozen shaved foie, duck soup with foie; seared foie, squab and foie, and braised short rib with foie ragout.

Seating is limited. $125 per person.

Call 568-4002 for reservations.

 

10 Unique Foods To Grill

By biteclub


Steak may be the darling of your grill, but it’s time to go beyond the beef. With a little imagination, there’s not much that can’t benefit from the lick of flame or charcoal and the kiss of the grill grates. Vegetables? Of course. But how about fruit, cake or even pizza? With barbecue season in full swing, you’ve got the perfect excuse to experiment.

Explore your options with ten foods you’ll want to introduce to your grilling lineup…

Pound cake: Though it may sound incredibly odd, once you smell the sweet scent of cake sizzling on the grates, you’re hooked. Cut a prepared pound cake into 3/4-inch slices, lay flat on the grill until sides are browned and toasty. Serve with ice cream or fresh fruit.

Grilling Tips
You don’t need a fancy grill or tons of equipment to get cooking. A few basics…
– Simple charcoal grills are economic and impart great flavor. Even if you have a gas grill, it’s worth keeping a small charcoal grill around for smoking, barbecuing and slow cooking.
– Foil is your friend. Most meats appreciate a little rest after grilling (at least 3-5 minutes). Tent them to keep them warm while resting. Wrap veggies in foil for cooking. Use foil across the grates to create a shield if parts of your food are cooking to fast or to keep the ends of bamboo skewers from burning.
– Cool it down a little: It’s great to get that sizzle and sear, but it’s important to remember that food needs to cook through without burning. So move food to a cooler area of your grill after getting that initial sear.
– Keep it clean: Those burnt bits from last week’s burgers don’t add flavor. They add burnt bits. Flavor comes from a well-seasoned grill. So brush off your grill well each time.
– The Mississippi Test: How hot is your grill? If you’re like most of us, a flat hand over the fire tends to be the most common method of measurement. Raichlen’s Planet Barbecue calls this the Mississippi Test. High heat (around 600-800 degrees) is two to three counts (One Mississippi, Two Mississippi) before you shout “Ouch!” and pull your hand away. Medium high 4-5 counts, with low heat being around 12-14 counts. Or you could just use a thermometer.
– Use your fingers: We’re not suggesting your should burn yourself, but expert grillers trust their fingers to check for doneness. Firmness is what you’re looking for in meat. Softness is what you’re looking for in fruits and veggies.
– Gadgets are goofy: Sure, they make great Father’s Day gifts, but all those goofy barbecue gadgets won’t make you a better griller. Keep it simple with a good set of tongs, a spatula, a thermometer and good judgment when it comes to heat and flames.

Peaches: Stone fruit is a natural on the grill. Though you’ve got a few more weeks until peaches are officially in season, they’re worth waiting for. Slice in half, removing the pit. You can macerate the halves in brandy, dessert wine, brown sugar or fresh lime. Or just leave them plain. Leave the skin on and place the cut-side down on the grill. Cook until soft and warmed through. Top with fresh ricotta or mascarpone and mint leaves.

Pineapple: Grilling naturally caramelizes slices of pineapple, making it one of our favorite things to throw on the barbecue. Use fresh pineapple, sliced into about a half-inch thick. You can leave the heart in to keep the slices from falling apart, then cut up the pieces after grilling. Cook until the outside browns and softens.

Pizza: Who needs a wood-fired oven when you’ve got a grill? If you’re a pro, roll out fresh dough, then slide it onto the grill with a pizza peel. Cook the first side for several minutes, then flip it, brush with olive oil and a bit of sauce and cheese. It’s best to go minimal, or you’ll end up with a doughy mess. Though it may not be quite as authentic, using a Boboli or other prepared dough is a whole lot easier. Just grill one side first, flip and top. Don’t crank up the heat too high on this one, or you’ll end up with burnt spots.

Romaine/Salad Skewers: Grilled lettuce? Hearts of hearty Romaine work best. Split the bunch in half lengthwise and brush the cut side with a bit of oil. Place cut side down and grill for several minutes until there are there’s a bit of char and the leaves begin to wilt. Ranch, Caesar or even a bit of balsamic vinegar are great dressings. Another idea: Skewer small mozzarella balls, cherry tomatoes and basil leaves, then grill for a new spin on Caprese.

Cheese: It’s a rare cheese that you can put directly on the grill, but Greek Halloumi is just such a cheese. About the texture of tofu, you can slice it about 1/3-inch thick then brush with lemon and olive oil. Place directly on the grill, or use a grill pan, heating for just a few minutes until softened. Serve with grilled vegetables. If you’re dairy-free, exchange some extra-firm tofu seasoned with a bit of soy sauce or teriyaki. Press out as much water as possible, then slice into 1/2-inch slices. Grill until firm.

Bananas: This is one serious foundation for a banana split. Slice the bananas in half. If you’re a risk-taker (and over 21), souse the fruit with a bit of coconut rum, and sprinkle with brown sugar. Grill for several minutes on each side.

Corn: Once you’ve grilled corn on the cob, you’ll never go back to boiling. A bit of char and smoke on the kernels just adds to the sweetness of this summer favorite. Remove the husks and silk. Rub with a bit of oil and grill for several minutes, turning, until individual kernels begin to brown and blacken a bit. Place the cooked cobs on a plate, tented with tin foil and continue steaming for several minutes. I like to cut off the kernels, then toss with a bit of lime-infused olive oil, salt, pepper and torn basil.

Ice cream: This is a tricky one, but like fried ice cream or baked Alaska, doable with a little prep. Steven Raichlen’s Planet Barbecue (Workman Publishing, $22.95) suggests a coating of beaten egg and shredded coconut over scoops of well-frozen ice cream. Skewer the scoops, then grill quickly until the coconut is browned.

Heart: Not everyone’s into offal, but if you’re going whole hog, this is an easy way to start. Pig, beef or lamb hearts are firm, lean and muscular, with more of a meaty taste than a, well, organ-y flavor. You’ll want to find a recipe for the details of trimming and marinating (there are many online) this lesser-used cut. Skewer sliced pieces and grill gently.

Just want it smoky? Smokers are easy to build or buy, but you can get the flavor of smoke from The Smoked Olive. The Sonoma couple infuses California olive oils with a deep smoke-flavor that compliments meet and vegetables. Want to take it to the next level? Their smoked brown sugar is terrific on fruit or chicken. Find them at thesmokedolive.com.

New Restaurants in Napa Valley: Spring 2012

By biteclub

[sh-slideshow-post id=”24072″]
Wanderlust seems to be catching, and we’ve got a bad case of it this spring.

With the twin pulls of Auction Napa Valley approaching (May 31-June 1) and a downright instinctual need to get out of the office, it seemed, well, necessary to investigate the bumper crop of new restaurants just over the hills in neighboring Napa Valley.  From St. Helena to Napa, burger joints, pizza cafes, crepe shops and plenty of spots for outdoor wine and cocktail sipping are opening up in time for the tourist season. Here’s a peek at what’s on the menu.

Town of Napa
Biscuits: The South has risen in the North Bay. The newest entrant into the grits and biscuits restaurant trend is the countrified Biscuits. The menu looks like it’s been lifted from the kitchen of a Arkansas truck stop. In a good way. Homemade biscuits, gravy, pulled pork biscuits, pecan pie, homemade barbecue chips, fried green tomatoes, collard greens with ham and best of all, chicken and waffles. Best bet: The Pappy, a thin buttermilk waffle sandwiching bacon, a fried chicken and pepper jelly. Syrup on the side, natch. It’s the best I’ve had outside Oakland, maybe even north of the Mason-Dixon. Take an extra biscuit to go, and don’t slam the screen door! 1502 Main St., Napa.

Tarla Mediterranean Grill: When you think about under-represented cuisines in Napa, Greek and Turkish come to mind. Obviously not a lot of falafel and schwarma carts dot the vineyards. So Tarla Grill in the new Avia Hotel in downtown Napa has a natural niche cut out for it. Chef Gerry Castro (Farmstead, Murray Circle) has a pedigreed background that spices up the usual meze and moussaka. Outdoor dining. 1480 First St., Napa, 255-5599.

Redwood: Following in the steps of neighbor, Thomas Keller, Richard Reddington, of much-lauded Redd in Yountville, has opened a more approachable every-day eatery just blocks away. The focus is on the wood-fired oven, with pizzas (clam and bacon to lardo with fontina), pasta, salads and entrees of quail, pork chops and lamb shank. Open breakfast through dinner daily. Look for the Wappo Hill mailbox, which belonged to the late Robert Mondavi’s Napa estate. Outdoor dining. 6755 Washington St., Yountville, 299-5030.

Habit Burger: Burgers are the stars of Habit Burger Grill, a (mostly) California based chain of restaurants. Although chains aren’t usually big news, the arrival of Habit, which has outposts in San Mateo and Pleasanton, was a flame-broiled freakout in the Valley. Mostly because finding a decent burger under $15 isn’t the easiest thing to do in Napa (aside from the Squeeze Inn and Gott’s). 1735 Trancas St., Napa, 251-8137.

La Crepe: The Oxbow market continues to evolve, hitting critical restaurant mass. Prepare for a density of artisan, ethnic, specialty foods equal to a neutron star. The newest entry: La Crepe, serving up authentic French crepes. Leave room for Kitchen Door, Kara’s Cupcakes, Gott’s Roadside, C Casa, Ca’Momi, Model Bakery, Fatted Calf, Three Twins, Pica Pica, Hog Island…and the list just goes on. 644 First St., Napa.

Newish
Eiko (fusion Japanese, sushi) opened in June 2011 with plenty of fanfare. While the look and feel are ultra-trendy, reviews have been mixed. You game has to be pretty solid when Japan’s Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto holds court just down the street. 1385 Napa Town Center., Napa, 501-4444.

Cielito Lindo: Also opened last summer, this upscale Mexican eatery replaced Annalien serving mainly dishes from the Veracruz region of Mexico. Look for dishes including octopus tacos, corn cakes with crispy pork skin, or lamb mole. 1142 Main St., Napa, 252-2300.

Still closed: Michelin-starred Ubuntu closed last year for a “sabbatical”, and has yet to reopen.

Oakville
Oakville Grocery: No, it’s not exactly new. In fact, the Oakville Grocery has been around for 130 years, and it was time for a facelift. After closing in January, the general store turned picnic-fare stop has reopened with a new chef and a new look. There’s a new walk-up espresso window and ice cream counter (serving Napa’s Three Twins ice cream, natch) along with a farm stand featuring fresh produce from nearby Rudd Farms. Newly-appointed toque Jason Rose (formerly of the Delfina Group and La Cocina) has updated the menu to include updated sandwiches, salads, baked goods and seasonal goods from the farm. The store was rescued from an uncertain future by winery and restaurant owner Leslie Rudd (Dean and Deluca, Press, Oakville Estate) in 2007.

St. Helena
Goose and Gander: From the ashes of the Martini House has arisen Goose and Gander. Locals know its the clubby downstairs bar where cocktalian Scott Beattie continues to work his libation magic. The signature drink: Buddha’s Hand Vodka, lemon, into, shiso, ginger, galangal and rhubarb called the Scarlett Gander (classic Beattie). Chef Kelly McCown serves up comfort favorites from braised meatballs and scallops with fried green tomatoes to pan-roasted chicken, grilled flatiron steaks and a luxe burger with Gruyere, bacon and duck fat fries (add some melted marrow on top for the complete effect). Outdoor dining. 1245 Spring St., St. Helena. Open for dinner 4-10 p.m.daily, lunch Friday-Sunday, late night dining 10 p.m. to 12 a.m. at the bar. 967-8779.

CIA Cafe: Need a quick jolt of espresso or a sandwich made by budding Culinary Institute of America chefs? The school recently opened a bakery cafe open for breakfast and lunch, with croissants, muffins and other fresh-baked goodies, plus sandwiches for lunch. Open 9a.m. to 4p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 2555 Main St., St. Helena. 967-2320.

Newish
Brassica: Chef Cindy Pawlcyn’s re-imagined Go Fish! becomes an Mediterranean-inspired eatery. Eggplant fries , spaghetti carbonara, Moroccan lamb shank. Outdoor dining. 641 Main St., St. Helena, 963-0700.
La Condesa: Austin-based Mexican comida takes over the Keller Brother’s Meats building, serving up nuevo Latin favorites from citrus brined chicken and chiles rellenos to ceviches and taquitos. Expect to pay premium prices for this homey Mexican fare, because it is, after all, Napa. 1320 Main St., St. Helena, 967-8111.

Salon des Sens

By biteclub
“Habitat” by photographer Nader Khouri
"Habitat" by photographer Nader Khouri
"Habitat" by photographer Nader Khouri

Salon des Sens opens in Healdsburg this weekend, an art exhibit entirely focused on food. The feast for the eyes includes photographers, poets, sculptors, painters, and videographers’ odes to edibles. Maggie Spicer guest curates the event at Studio Barndiva through June 12. Barndiva chef Ryan Fancher of serves his own plated masterpieces at the opening reception Saturday June 2 from 6pm to 8pm. 237 Center St. at Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7404.

Legendary Winemaker Tastings

By biteclub

Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg hosts a series of tasting seminars with legendary Sonoma County winemakers throughout the summer and fall. You may know the wines — Littorai, Unti, Quivira, Marimar Estate, Flowers, Hirsch — but its a rarer opportunity to spend several hours chatting with a mix of established and up-and-coming winemakers. The first tasting on Sunday June 10, features cool-climate wines from Eric DeMuth of DeMuth Kemos, Pax Mahle of Windgap Wines and Ryan Zepaltas of Zepaltas Wines.$99 per person.

317 Healdsburg Ave. at Matheson St., Healdsburg. Reservations by calling 707-431-0330.

JULY 15 ~ BENNETT VALLEY AVA
Brian Malone – Matanzas Creek Winery
Peter Young – Greystack Cellars
Russell Bevan – Bevan Cellars

AUGUST 12~FORT ROSS AVA
Jason Jardine – Flowers Vineyards and Winery
Ted Lemon – Littorai Wines
Ross Cobb – Hirsch Vineyards

SEPTEMBER 16 ~ THE RHONE COMES TO SONOMA COUNTY
Gerry Pasterick – Vineyard of Pasterick
Lise Ciolino – Montemaggiore
Mick Unti – Unti Vineyards

OCTOBER 14 ~ ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINEMAKING
Ames Morison – Medlock Ames
Hugh Chappelle – Quivira Vineyards and Winery
Marimar Torres – Marimar Estate

NOVEMBER 11 ~ HIGH ELEVATION WINEGROWING
Greg La Follette – La Follette Wines
Graham Weerts – Stonestreet Wines
Timothy Milos – Hidden Ridge Vineyard

Mister Hof Brau closed

By biteclub

UPDATE: Sam called Monday and informed BiteClub that the restaurant is not reopening and is for sale.

Refrigeration issues have shuttered Mister Hof-brau (458 B St., Santa Rosa, 545-6237) until Monday, June 4 according to owners.

“We are having mechanical problems and…need some major repairs,” said Sam Samii. Sam and brother Narsi Samii reopened the their carvery in the Brickyard Center in downtown Santa Rosa last March after losing their lease at Coddingtown Center after 27 years.

During the temporary closure, Sam is also transferring his ownership of the restaurant to Narsi. “I’m going to step down. I’m giving control back to Narsi. He is the expert,” said Sam.

A hand-written closure sign in posted on the door of the restaurant early this week sparked concern and rumors in the restaurant scene that the relocated hofbrau may be facing a second closure. Sam assures BiteClub the restaurant will soldier after the repairs.