Meals Worth the Miles

Meyers Grade Road winds its way to its intersection with the Pacific Coast Highway north of Jenner. (Charlie Gesell/The Press Democrat)

Clocking the moments on our watches, knocking out a few Tweets as we ignore the scenery around us, stuffing down dinner without really enjoying a single bite … it’s no wonder we often come up blank when we try to remember a special night out.

Make the journey the destination.

Here are five restaurants where the drive is as much a part of the experience as the dining. From winding coastal roads to relaxing forays into the heart of dairy country and past world-famous vineyards, these are opportunities to relax, unplug and be part of a moment. Your inbox can wait. At least until you get home.

 

Frutti di mare at the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Photo by Jeff Cox)
Frutti di mare at the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. (Photo by Jeff Cox)

Farmhouse Inn: 7871 River Road, Forestville, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com

This cozy inn run by the brother and sister team of Joe and Catherine Bartolomei is tucked among the vineyards of the Russian River Valley. The space was converted from a rundown motel into a luxurious collection of cottages, suites, spacious barn-house rooms and a Michelin-starred restaurant (the jewel of the location). Chef Steve Litke has reigned over the kitchen since before anyone can remember, creating signature dishes such as Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit (local rabbit served three ways), Dungeness crab and seared duck breast, paired with one of the best wine lists in Northern California (chosen by wine director and Master Sommelier Geoff Kruth).

The drive: The 7.5-mile drive west along River Road from Highway 101 winds past some of the most scenic vineyards in Sonoma. Watch for Martinelli Winery & Vineyards about three miles in, a pioneering family business. Farther along, you’ll pass Pinot Noir and Zinfandel producer Woodenhead Vintners. Soak up the miles of vineyards, wildlife and groves of eucalyptus and redwoods along the way.

 

Café Aquatica: 10439 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-865-2251, cafeaquatica.com

Perched on a rocky knoll just above the Russian River estuary, this casual beach shack is an insider’s secret. Not only does the café micro-roast its own coffee (with excellent pour-overs), but also makes its own soups, breads and other baked goods using organic and non-GMO ingredients each morning. The food is ridiculously good, especially when you’re sitting outside watching paddleboarders float by.

A couple dine at the River's End Restaurant and Inn. (photo by Charlie Gesell)
A couple dine at the River’s End Restaurant and Inn. (photo by Charlie Gesell)

Looking for something a bit more upscale? Just up the road is River’s End Restaurant, with haute coastal dining and a seasonal Dungeness crab tasting menu. 10048 Highway 1, Jenner, 707-865-2484, ilovesunsets.com

The drive: Head north on Highway 1 from Marin for a scenic ocean drive, or along Highway 116 through Guerneville and Monte Rio, following the Russian River. The latter takes you past historic F. Korbel & Bros. winery, groves of redwoods and the tiny hamlet of Duncans Mills, where you can visit galleries, Mr. Trombly’s Teas and Sophie’s Cellars, a wine purveyor favored by some of the businessmen and celebrities who stop by during the annual Bohemian Grove gathering.

 

Rocker Oysterfeller’s: 14415 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-1983, rockeroysterfellers.com

As the restaurant’s name implies, local Tomales Bay oysters are a specialty at this quaint Valley Ford spot, served on the half shell, baked with bacon and cream cheese, or with a little garlic butter. But this isn’t just an oyster shack. Owners Shona Campbell and Brandon Guenther serve up some serious grit-kicking Southern flavors, including buttermilk-fried chicken, oyster po’ boys, cheese grits and collard greens, along with plenty of seasonal specialties. There is a full bar and weekend brunch.

The drive: From Petaluma, take Bodega Avenue west to Valley Ford Road. The next 10 miles wind through the center of North Bay dairy country, with rolling hills and family-run ranches as far as the eye can see. The vineyards are fewer, and sheep, cow and chicken sightings are plentiful. Along the way to the restaurant in “downtown” Valley Ford, you’ll pass Bellwether Farms (known for its sheep’s-milk cheeses and yogurt) and Bloomfield Farms, which has you-pick produce and casual brunches in the fields during spring and summer months.

 

Fremont Diner: 2698 Fremont Drive, Sonoma, 707-938-7370, thefremontdiner.com

The Fremont Diner, hidden away among Sonoma’s grapevines and pastures, is the sort of place every traveler dreams of stumbling upon, but rarely ever does. Oozing “nouveau decrepitude,” a heavy dose of John Deere chic and the irresistible lure of a butter- and pork-soaked menu that would bring a tear of recognition to grandpappy’s eye, the diner is everything good about, well, roadside diners. Here, “Praise the Lard” isn’t just a quirky tagline but a mission, from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.

The drive: It’s a roughly 35-minute drive from Petaluma to the diner. There are faster ways to get there, but take the winding drive from Lakeville Highway to Frates Road, which ends where it hits Adobe Road. There you’ll find Green String Farm, a Biodynamic farming project that has incredible local produce year-round and a quaint market open most days. Continue southeast on Adobe Road, which becomes Stage Gulch Road. When you come to Arnold Drive (Highway 116), turn right, and then take a left on Fremont Drive (aka Highway 12/121). On the way, you’ll meander through pastures, vineyards, wetlands and some of Sonoma’s lesser-traveled back country. If you continue past the diner (corner of Fremont Drive and South Central Avenue) a few more miles, you come to Highway 29, which takes you up the Napa Valley.

 

Sausage flatbread at Forestville's Backyard restaurant. (Jeff Kan Lee/ The Press Democrat)
Sausage flatbread at Forestville’s Backyard restaurant. (Jeff Kan Lee/ The Press Democrat)

Backyard: 6566 Front St., Forestville, 707-820-8445, backyardforestville.com

Unlike a thousand other restaurants with twee Mason jars and artisan farminess slathered all over their menus, Forestville’s Backyard restaurant gets its dirt cred authentically. Chef-owner Daniel Kedan sources from his own backyard culinary gardens and those of his ranch and farming neighbors. The alum of Ad Hoc in Yountville has created a friendly, community-focused restaurant that relies on seasonal produce, foragers and whole-animal butchery as its foundation.

The drive: From Sebastopol, drive north on Highway 116. Before you leave town, be sure to check out The Barlow, recently converted from an old apple-processing plant to a shiny new artisan food mecca. There are distilleries, breweries, wineries, restaurants and coffee roasters, as well as a large community grocer. As you drive along the highway, you’ll see apple orchards, some of which are now being used for the region’s burgeoning cider production. Merry Edwards Winery and Paul Hobbs Winery are among the noted producers you’ll pass along the way. At the intersection of Guerneville Road and Gravenstein Highway, stop in at Mom’s Apple Pie for a flaky, fruit-packed treat or grab a quick takeout order of fried chicken at Red’s Apple Roadhouse next door. Turn onto Ross Station Road for a side trip to Iron Horse Vineyards or stop at nearby Kozlowski Farms for its great gift store featuring the family’s jams, pies and sauces.

Shopping: Life’s a Beach

Shopping: Great finds for the coast, garden and trail.

AT THE BEACH

The beach is a weekend retreat for many in Sonoma, and the journey through redwoods and shady eucalyptus knolls, along winding rivers and rolling coastal hills, is part of the fun. Here’s how to enhance your adventure.

Clos du Bois Cruiser
What’s better than a hot-pink bike? A hot-pink bike outfitted with a picnic basket. This limited-edition, C-Wonder beach- and city-ready cruiser is a natch for lazy-day rides. It comes with a bottle of Clos du Bois wine, shatterproof wine glasses and a corkscrew; just add local cheeses, a stick or two of salumi and start pedaling. $350, Clos du Bois Winery, 19410 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-857-3100, closdubois.com

Vintage Sari Scarf from One World Fair Trade in Healdsburg. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Vintage Sari Scarf from One World Fair Trade in Healdsburg. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Vintage Sari Scarf
Brilliantly colored pieces of women’s saris are sewn together into a patchwork scarf that’s both soft and warm. To boot, you’re helping save the world with this fair-trade garment. $34, One World Fair Trade, 104 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0880, oneworldfairtrade.net

Wood Slingshot
Give a little boost to skipping rocks with your handmade slingshot. Yes, it’s silly, but the suede projectile pouch, latex band and strong Y-branch are so much more satisfying than trying to actually make your own rock launcher. $27.95, Healdsburg Shed, 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7433, healdsburgshed.com

Eddyline Fathom LV Kayak with Skeg
This sleek paddler is ocean-worthy and streamlined enough to cut through the waves like butter. Hatches hold all your gear safe and dry.
$2,699, REI, 2715 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-540-9025, rei.com/stores/santa-rosa

 

GARDEN PARTY

Spring is in the air, even if there are a few sprinkles dampening the outdoor festivities. Get a head start on your little patch of heaven with a few of these items.

Cork Birdhouse from Urban Garden in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Cork Birdhouse from Urban Garden in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Cork Birdhouse
It’s a house party for your feathered friends with this wine-cork casa. Big enough for a small nest, it’s a Wine Country refuge your winged friends will appreciate. $50, Urban Garden, 2313 Magowan Drive, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-543-7037, myurbangarden.com

Heirloom Seeds
Want to taste a ripe tomato, strawberry or bean like your great-grandmother remembers? Baker Creek Seed has collected thousands of heirloom, non-GMO seeds that grow into fruits and veggies that taste good, rather than just ship well. Start your own heirloom garden with the Home Gardener’s Collection. $40, Petaluma Seed Bank, 199 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-773-1336, rareseeds.com

Modern Farmer Magazine
From how to chop wood and brew compost tea to making your own natural dyes, this fresh new take on the farm life is a fascinating DIY read (whether you have a farm or not). $19.95 subscription (four issues), modernfarmer.com

The Big Paper Potter, left, and The Paper Potter from SHED in Healdsburg. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
The Big Paper Potter, left, and The Paper Potter from SHED in Healdsburg. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Paper Potter
Sure, you can use an old can, but these stylish English hardwood dowels let you fashion perfect recyclable pots for your seed starts. Simply wrap newspaper around the post, creating a small seed pot, fill with dirt and start gardening. $24.50, Healdsburg Shed, 25 North St., Healdsburg, 707-431-7433, healdsburgshed.com

Herbal Tea Garden Bonbons
Though they look good enough to eat, you may be disappointed at the dirt taste. Your garden, however, will benefit from these eight garden truffles that contain seeds, clay and compost to grow chamomile, lemon balm and anise for your teapot. $16.50, Urban Garden, 2313 Magowan Drive, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa, 707-543-7037, myurbangarden.com

 

HIT THE TRAILS

Time to get those boots on the ground and a hiking pole in your hand as Sonoma’s trails warm up for the season. Here’s what to bring.

Merrell Moab Hiking Hikers

Merrell Moab Hiking Boots
A good pair of hiking boots is worth every penny when you’re scampering along wet, mossy, rocky trails. Proven winners are the Merrell Moab waterproof hikers. No breaking in required, they have anti-stink technology and great ankle support for uneven terrain. $120, Sonoma Outfitters, 145 Third St., Santa Rosa, 707-528-1920, sonomaoutfitters.com

Specialized Stumpjumper Comp HT Bike
In this mountain biking paradise, the right equipment is critical. Get on this lightweight yet sturdy, carbon-frame bike and claim the trails as your own. $2,000, NorCal Bike Sport, 425 College Ave., Santa Rosa,707-573-0112, norcalcycling.com

Not Yer Momma's Granola at local farmers markets and notyermommas.com. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Not Yer Momma’s Granola
Made in Santa Rosa, this granola has the perfect ratio of oats, nuts, fruits and seeds. There’s no sugar, dairy, salt or other gunk, and flavors include cardamom apricot, blueberry ginger and apple cinnamon. $8.95 for 11 ounces, sold at local farmers markets and at notyermommas.com

Tote-Able Sonoma Beverage Bag
We’re not telling you what to put in this smart beverage bag, but it can hold more than water. Whether it’s wine, iced tea or a fruit smoothie, fill this portable, lined container with your favorite beverage and leave the glass and cans behind. $32, Oakville Grocery, 124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3200, oakvillegrocery.com

Wildflower Walks

The painting actually started in January, as nature’s brushstrokes flickered across Sonoma’s meadows in little flurries. The first harbinger: a magenta-pink dash of shooting-star wildflowers, then a crimson swath of Indian warriors, followed by a white flash of milkmaids.

“Every year, it’s like the return of an old friend,” said Pepperwood Preserve ecologist Michelle Halbur.

As each new color in the native wildflower palette arrives, it recasts the countryside.

“One of the things I’ve learned is to expect certain splashes of color on the landscape at certain times,” said Jeanne Wirka, who has watched spring gradually blossom on the local canvas for the past 10 years, as the resident biologist at the Bouverie Preserve in Glen Ellen. “One day a field will be all grass and the next day it will be solid purple with lupine.”

Even with the record drought of 2013, by now the hills and winding trails are alive with electric-gold California poppies and vivid blue irises. The typical peak wildflower bloom of mid-March, which often coincides with the arrival of spring weather, may fluctuate by a few weeks this year, depending on the overlap of early- and late-blooming species.

Before you lace up your hiking boots and break out the field guide, here’s a stroll through the best wildflower sojourns in Sonoma:

Pepperwood Preserve

Visitors enjoy the sun at Pepperwood Preserve.
Visitors enjoy the sun at Pepperwood Preserve.

Every year, snowy milkmaids and purple hound’s-tongue are the first to light up this 3,120-acre refuge northeast of Santa Rosa.

“It’s like stumbling across your favorite treasure or a prized possession,” Halbur said.

Now, in the peak bloom of March and April, “amid the sea of grasslands there are islands of wildflowers where you find a mosaic of goldfields, creamcups, California buttercups, blue-eyed grass, popcorn flowers, bird’s eye gilia and miniature lupine,” she explained.

Also at Pepperwood, be on the lookout for the scarce Jepson’s leptosiphon, a delicate pink, star-shaped flower that grows along trails near the entrance to the preserve where the guided hikes usually start.

On April 13, the preserve hosts the Pepperwood Wildflower Festival (9 a.m. to 4 p.m.) with free hikes led by local botanists and an hour-long loop of self-guided hikes and interpretative stations.

2130 Pepperwood Preserve Road, Santa Rosa, 707-591-9310, pepperwoodpreserve.org

Jim Moir, volunteer docent at the Bouverie Preserve near Glen Ellen, leads hikers in small groups through the 500-acre preserve.
Jim Moir, volunteer docent at the Bouverie Preserve near Glen Ellen, leads hikers in small groups through the 500-acre preserve.

Bouverie Preserve

“If you know how to read the landscape, then you can start knowing what to expect,” said Bouverie biologist Wirka.

This 535-acre spread of oaks, grasslands and evergreen forests in Glen Ellen comes to life every spring with California buttercups, purplish chocolate-brown mission bells, monkey flowers and Douglas iris.

One of the treats is the endangered Sonoma sunshine wildflower, which blooms only near vernal pools.

“There’s this ‘ah-ha’ moment that people have when they realize, ‘I’ve been looking at these flowers my whole life and never really knew much about them.’ Now they’re learning so much more about their surroundings,” Wirka said.

Half-day Saturday guided hikes are offered March 1 and 15, April 12 and 26, and May 3. Wirka also teaches an in-depth wildflower class on March 29, focusing on specific flower identification in the classroom and the field.

13935 Highway 12, Glen Ellen, 415-868-9244, egret.org

Sonoma County Regional Parks

Wildflowers blossom in abundance in most of the regional parks, but veteran docent Phil Dean has come up with two very different wildflower hikes: the most strenuous (and possibly most rewarding) and the most accessible.

“If you want to work for your wildflowers, go to Hood Mountain,” he said.

The Santa Rosa site is a challenging 5.3-mile hike to the summit, and along the way you’ll see a stunning variation of fragrant fritillary, in this case an unlikely yellow subspecies that has more curled petals and is “only found in a handful of regions,” Dean said.

Once you reach the top, the reward is the Sonoma penstemon, which is only found in Sonoma County.

Dean’s pick for the most user-friendly hike is Sonoma Valley Regional Park in Glen Ellen, on a flat, paved trail and with easy handicapped access. You’ll see entire fields blanketed with California poppies, lupine, woodland star, hound’s-tongue, periwinkle and Douglas iris.

Starting around mid-March, weather permitting, many Sonoma County Regional Parks will offer Saturday morning guided wildflower tours. Also check out Dean’s local wildflower blog at sonomawild.us.

Hood Mountain Regional Park, 1450 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa; Sonoma Valley Regional Park, 13630 Highway 12, Glen Ellen. 707-539-8092, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

Reny Parker’s Sonoma Highlights

“Every spring we know where to look for certain flowers and they never disappoint us,” said local wildflower photographer Reny Parker. “Maybe they’ll be a day early or a day late, but they’re always there.”

The trailblazing author of “Wildflowers of Northern California’s Wine Country & North Coast Ranges,” a guide that’s intuitively organized by color instead of family, likes to share snapshots taken at her favorite wildflower spots. One of her go-to hikes is in Annadel State Park on the eastern edge of Santa Rosa, where she’s returned many times to see the rare and threatened fritillary, along with the wavyleaf soap plant (which flowers only briefly, usually at night), butter-and-eggs and sun cups.

At Fort Ross, she often finds white variations of baby blue eyes, woodland stars, canon delphiniums and Hooker’s fairy bells.

And if “you’d rather drive and not get out of your car,” she recommends Cavedale Road, off Highway 12, up in the hills between Sonoma and Napa, where she often sees blue dicks, buttercups, wild heliotropes, Sonoma sage and Indian paintbrush.

“I’m hoping that in all the work I do, I’m helping people open their eyes to the beauty that’s all around them,” Parker said.

Under Government’s Watchful Eye

The Seghesios simply wanted to preserve family traditions, offering VIP visitors to their Healdsburg winery tastes of a cured salami they produced from recipes brought from the old country when the family emigrated from Italy in 1886.

Then in the summer of 2011, Seghesio Family Vineyards ran into modern health regulations.

It turns out that the state requires a mind-bogglingly detailed plan for producing meat, spelling out exactly where and how every scrap will be handled. It’s either that or find a U.S. Department of Agriculture-approved facility to do it for you, and there isn’t one of those anywhere near the winery.

So former CEO Pete Seghesio, the third generation of the family in Sonoma, decided to shift his focus from grapes to building a state-of-the-art facility to produce the family recipes and help other artisan meat producers make their products without running afoul of health inspectors.

“It’s really about trying to preserve family traditions but make (them) marketable and saleable in a modern marketplace, and to do that, you’ve got to be USDA-certified; you’ve got to be willing to invest to be able to do it,” said Seghesio as he stood on the unfinished second floor of the building in Healdsburg that he hopes to open later this year.

The family sold the winery in 2011, and Seghesio decided to invest a considerable sum (he declined to say how much) to build a gleaming new facility to be called the Healdsburg Meat Co. The building is located north of Healdsburg’s plaza, at the site of the post office that burned down in 2010. The investment will allow him to produce and sell to the public cured meats, a process that by law must be done under the watchful and pervasive eye of USDA inspectors.

His story isn’t unusual. Artisan food and beverage producers often run up against regulations that are out of date or designed for huge industrial operations rather than cottage industries. From meat producers to salsa makers, from small farmers to makers of spirits and ciders, the details of local, state and federal regulations can shape the way they do business, or put an end to it entirely.

Evan Wiig, founder of agriculture networking site The Farmers Guild, learned this a year ago when he and some business partners tried to produce hams in the style of prosciutto, speck and Iberico, from livestock raised on their small farm near Valley Ford. After a few delicious experiments shared with friends and family, they began to look into the regulations for selling their products to the public.

That stopped the project cold. Before Wiig and his partners even broke ground, the costs of making their own cured ham at the farm near the Sonoma-Marin county line began to spiral insanely out of control.

“Frankly, we stopped counting at $150,000,” Wiig said. “It would have kept going up from there. How high, I don’t know.”

Seghesio’s planned business will feature a café and butcher counter that sells locally sourced meat products. But the heart of the operation will be completely outside public view: the tightly regulated workshop where carcasses will be broken down and processed into chops, sausages and salumi. Temperature will be precisely controlled, access sharply limited, sanitation rigorously enforced. A regional USDA inspector will have full access to the facility during operating hours, and the business must maintain an office onsite for the inspector’s exclusive use.

“It costs a lot, it’s a lot; the USDA portion, it’s pretty prohibitive,” Seghesio said. “That’s why you see all the USDA facilities are large, large, large facilities.”

Meat isn’t the only artisan product that runs into regulatory obstacles.

Sonoma County cider makers Ellen Cavalli and Scott Heath ran into roadblocks with the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), a division of the Treasury Department.

They want to reintroduce Americans to apple-based cider, once a common drink in Colonial homes, but since Prohibition a nearly extinct art form. Their Tilted Shed Ciderworks near Forestville is part of a small but rapidly expanding renaissance in the artisan cider world.

Heath wants to explore a small specialty form of cider known as New England style. Colonial cider makers in the icy Northeastern states would try to preserve barrels of fall cider through the long winter by adding molasses to boost the alcohol level and sprinkling in raisins to promote a slow, steady fermentation that covers the surface cider in a protective blanket of carbon dioxide.

“There are New England ciders that are really beautiful, these little touches of molasses, vanilla things, other flavor profiles that come out with it that are really special,” Cavalli explained. Yet the TTB, which is primarily responsible for collecting taxes on alcoholic beverages, also exerts tight control over the naming and labeling of wine, beer, cider and spirits. As far as the feds are concerned, what Tilted Shed wants to produce and sell isn’t cider at all. By adding raisins, Cavalli said, the beverage would have to be called something like “apple wine with spices and other natural flavoring.”

“That just sounds like you’re making crap,” she said. “There’s no credibility to that kind of thing, so we’re not going to do it.”

For small-batch liquor distilleries, meanwhile, the problem isn’t tax officials, but rather state laws that block their ability to get their products to the consumer. California distillers do not have the right to sell their goods directly to consumers, as breweries, wineries and cideries do. That means they have to rely exclusively on the wholesaler middlemen to get their spirits into stores, bars and restaurants.

Ashby and Timo Marshall, founders of Spirit Works Distillery, inside their newly built facility in Sebastopol on Tuesday, Nov. 20, 2012. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)

A wholesaler is under no obligation to carry small-batch products, so distillers can’t afford to take the risk of producing something odd or innovative, for fear they would be stuck with hundreds of gallons of liquor they can’t sell, according to Timo Marshall, co-founder of artisan distillery Spirit Works in Sebastopol.

“Say we wanted to do one barrel in a very particular way,” he explained. “We may finish it in a different cask or in a particular way; we may blend two of our whiskies together to get a particular flavor. That’s the kind of thing that happens all the time in the wine and beer world, where producers can test the market by selling experiments and mistakes directly to the public.”

Distillers, however, “literally cannot sell that product, because they can’t find a distributor willing to take on that product,” he said.

Spirits producers won a small victory in the California legislature in 2013, gaining the right to offer tastings at their facilities, but their campaign to allow direct sales to the public died when it ran into stiff resistance from distributors.

Other artisan industries have been more successful. The Bale Grist Mill in Napa Valley, for example, is likely to be partially exempted from state and local health regulations by the state Legislature this year, freeing it to sell its flour and corn products ground on the huge grindstones powered by a towering waterwheel.

The mill ran afoul of local health regulations in 2008 when inspectors found that the newly restored mill did not meet modern health codes for factories producing flour and similar products. The mill, built in 1846, could not be completely sealed against wildlife such as bats and mice, and the wooden structure would have to be modified with floors, counters and other surfaces that are deemed impervious and washable.

Since then, the mill has operated under an awkward compromise in which it gives its flours away in 1-pound bags, with a $5 donation requested. Bags must be stamped, “not for human consumption,” although humans do consume the products with no reported illnesses or injuries, according to the Napa County Regional Park and Open Space District, which operates the mill.

State Sen. Lois Wolk, D-Davis, is pushing a bill that would create an exemption for such historic mills (the Bale Grist Mill is the only one in the state, as it turns out). Her bill had been headed for easy passage in the 2013 session, but was stalled at the last minute when the state Department of Health asked for some changes. Wolk said she does not anticipate any difficulty reviving the bill and allowing the mill to sell its ground grains legally.

Home cooks scored a partial victory in 2012 when the legislature passed the California Homemade Food Act, permitting home producers to sell a wide variety of products directly to the public without having to rent space in a commercial kitchen, an expensive proposition. That opened up farmers markets and other venues to sell home-baked breads and tortillas, candies, jams and jellies, pasta and home-roasted coffee. But the act left untouched the ban on items considered hazardous if mishandled in production, including cured meat, cheese, pies or pastries that require refrigeration, pickles and anything based on tomatoes. The tomato ban alone cut out the potentially large market for homemade pasta sauces and salsas.

“It’s still pretty narrow,” said Christina Oatfield, policy director of the Oakland-based Sustainable Economies Law Center, which tries to help small producers deal with regulatory hurdles.

In some cases, regulation seems to be getting more stringent. Small farmers nationwide are nervously eyeing a new set of regulations proposed by the federal government after a 2006 E. coli outbreak in bagged spinach, and set to go into effect in 2015. Those rules dramatically tighten limits on the use of manure and compost, compel stricter water treatment for irrigation and washing, and require farmers to block wildlife of several kinds from the fields.

In a recent round of comments on the proposal, small and organic farmers warned that the regulations would be prohibitively expensive and undermine organic and eco-friendly traditional practices. They hope the Food and Drug Administration will relax the rules or carve out exemptions for very small growers.

Modern regulations tend to be tailored for large-scale production facilities, which have deeper pockets and can offset extra cost with greater efficiency. That leaves the little guys struggling to find a way to live with rules drafted without them in mind.

“We have a very good food safety system in this county, but it is large and industrial, and the cost to play in that game, it forces people to be very large,” Seghesio said. “And when you’re very large, you lose your creativity.”

A Fresh Affair -DaVero Farms and Winery

At DaVero Farms and Winery, the grays of winter give way to spring’s unfolding palette. First come yellow acacia flowers and red-breasted robins on sloping green hillsides, followed soon by pussy willows at the edge of the pond, a snowy white frenzy of wild plum blossoms and the soft hues of narcissus, hyacinth and lilac. They all evoke memories of DaVero co-owner Colleen McGlynn’s childhood in Wisconsin, where every farm has a row of lilacs and day lilies.

Colleen McGlynn and Ridgely Evers of DaVero Farm and Winery (photo by Chris Hardy)
Colleen McGlynn and Ridgely Evers of DaVero Farm and Winery (photo by Chris Hardy)

“You can spot the bones of old farms by the flowers,” she said.

DaVero, near Healdsburg, stepped onto the culinary stage in the mid-1990s with the release of an extra-virgin olive oil, a blend of five varieties imported from Tuscany. Over the years, other DaVero products — olive oil soap, condiments from estate fruit, an estate Meyer lemon olive oil and a selection of wines from purchased grapes — joined in and before long, a small vineyard of Sagrantino was added above the olive orchards.

A few years ago, DaVero opened a tasting room on Westside Road in Healdsburg, and in 2013 completed construction of a small winery adjacent to the tasting room. There are herb and vegetable gardens, an orchard of Meyer lemon trees, white Alpine strawberries, persimmons, hens for eggs, sheep and a few pigs. What began as a foray into the world of olive oil has blossomed into a diverse family farm.

With all the pruning done and bud break in the vineyards likely still weeks away, there’s a bit of leisure. Tiny olive blossoms will begin to appear soon, but there’s little to be done except to hope it doesn’t rain during pollination. DaVero’s monthly Sunset Suppers start on the final Friday of May. These dinners, open to club members and the public, are sweet and intimate, with about 30 guests sitting at one long table in the tasting room, savoring estate wines and the garden’s bounty, along with ranch eggs, estate pork and lamb, and seafood from the coast. (Dinners typically cost $85, with discounts for club members.)

“You can plan your day a bit,” McGlynn said of this time of year, “and, if you’re lucky, take time for dinner.”

Dinner is often with Loretta Keller, owner and chef of San Francisco’s Coco500 restaurant. Keller is a longtime friend of McGlynn and her husband and DaVero co-owner, Ridgely Evers, and has a cabin near their ranch. She comes up frequently from San Francisco to relax and enjoy the season.

“Because everything is budding, you can feel the garden and the woods stirring under your feet,” Keller said of spring in Sonoma. “It is so full of promise. And the first asparagus, sweet and tender in an omelet!”

With spring afoot, the braises of winter and McGlynn’s beloved clay pots give way to lighter techniques, though fire is still central to her style. She’ll fire up the wood-burning grill for fresh favas, garlic scapes, asparagus and, perhaps, a butterflied leg of lamb massaged with spring herbs. The living room fireplace has a Tuscan grill. Evers, whose business resume includes leading the team that developed the QuickBooks bookkeeping software program for Intuit, can be found at the grill, turning homemade bread for bruschetta or cooking a spatchcocked (butterflied) chicken. An outdoor wood-burning oven, built on the north end of the farmhouse’s wrap-around porch, is at the ready when more than the two or three gather around the table.

Beets roasted and smashed with balsamic vinegar and arugala. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Beets roasted and smashed with balsamic vinegar and arugula. (photo by Chris Hardy)

The farm fills most produce needs year-round, along with eggs from hens that roam freely and the occasional lamb from a small flock of sheep that keeps weeds in the olive orchard and vineyard in check.

The gardens, overseen by Mary Foley, are not quite a full acre, with one patch at the farm and another at the winery, about an eighth of a mile away. A mix of perennials, vegetables and herbs, the gardens produce enough for McGlynn, Evers and their employees, who are free to harvest what they like. Some of the bounty goes to local food banks, and now and then the harvest makes it into the tasting room, where it used for the monthly suppers and sometimes sold to visitors.

“An onion is a hard sell,” McGlynn said, “but tourists can manage ripe tomatoes. They don’t typically have kitchens (where they stay) but can imagine taking a ripe, juicy tomato on a picnic.”

The tasting room at DaVero Farms and Winery is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. 766 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8000, davero.com.

SPRING VEGGIES

Not long after those first brave shoots of asparagus poke their tiny tips through the warming soil, spring’s harvest begins to unfold. Soon there are piles of spring onions and garlic, garlic scapes (the curly green tops) and tender fava beans begging to be shelled.

Cooking becomes simpler than in the dead of winter and when it comes to seasonings, chef Colleen McGlynn relies on little more than her DaVero Estate Extra Virgin Olive Oil, fresh lemon, crunchy Maldon sea salt and herbs from the garden. Here are some of her favorite ways to enjoy the delicate harvest of spring:

Artichokes: Braised, with peas, mint, lemon and olive oil

Asparagus: Grilled (“Of course,” she says.)

Fava beans: Grilled whole, in their pods, drizzled with olive oil, lemon and Maldon salt; shelled, in risotto, with peas and pea shoots

Baby beets: Roasted, slightly smashed, with a splash of balsamic vinegar

Baby fennel bulbs: Braised in olive oil; shaved into a salad

Garlic scapes: Grilled, drizzled with olive oil, lemon and Maldon sea salt

Spring herbs: Green Goddess dressing with mint, tarragon and parsley over Little Gem and butter leaf lettuces; massaged into leg of lamb

Nettles: Pasta with nettle pesto; soup

Spring onions: Grilled

Pea shoots: Wilted; in pasta; in stir-fry; in risotto

Sorrel and spinach: Sauteed with shallots and spooned onto grilled bread; in soup

Radishes: Shaved, lightly dressed and topped with soft-boiled farm eggs

Rhubarb: With strawberries, in pies and galettes

WINES

When Ridgely Evers planted olive trees in the late 1980s, he didn’t do a lot of advance analysis.

“It felt like Italy,” he reflects now about Dry Creek Valley, “and so I planted Italian varieties.”

The trees flourished and, since their first harvest, have yielded an extraordinary olive oil. It was this success that sent Evers down a Mediterranean path when he decided to add vineyards to the farm. Mediterranean plants enjoy natural success in this climate, he says, and so he looked to Italian, not French, grapes.

To illustrate his point, he’s in the habit of picking up a laminated map that sits on the bar of the winery’s tasting room and pointing out that Northern California rests at the same latitude as Sicily.

Come spring, Evers and his wife and business partner, Colleen McGlynn, pour these favorites for themselves, their friends and visitors to the winery.

Estate Malvasia Bianco: This white-wine grape, one of the first varieties cultivated by humankind, thrives throughout the Mediterranean region but does not produce wine-quality grapes in more northern areas.

Vermentino: The grapes come from a vineyard in Lodi, in the Cosumnes River viticultural area. The variety thrives along the Tuscan coast, in Sardinia and in Liguria, and the wine is good, Evers says, with seafood, especially spring oysters.

Sangiovese Rosato: Made separately as a rosé — not with run-off juice from a red-wine fermentation — this limited-production wine, fermented with natural yeast, is subtle, layered and remarkably food-friendly.

Sagrantino: DaVero’s flagship wine, it’s a lush red made from a grape variety rarely grown outside of Italy’s Umbria region, with aromas of rose petals and blueberries.

The New Cheese in Town

Blue cheese aging at Bleating Heart Creamery outside Petaluma. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Two of the North Bay’s newest cheese producers made striking debuts at international competitions in 2013. If the world’s cheese aficionados didn’t already know that Sonoma and Marin make great cheese, they do now.

Fat Bottom Girl from Bleating Heart Cheese in West Marin won super gold at the 2013 World Cheese Awards in England in November, and Bollie’s Mollies from Pennyroyal Farmstead in Boonville was awarded a gold medal at the 2013 International Cheese Awards, also in England, in July.

Here is a taste of the passion that drives these rising stars:

Seana Doughty, of Bleating Heart Creamery outside Petaluma. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Seana Doughty, of Bleating Heart Creamery outside Petaluma. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Seana Doughty launched Bleating Heart Cheese in 2009 with milk purchased from Barinaga Ranch in Marshall. That’s when she created Fat Bottom Girl, a creamy, buttery round made from raw sheep’s milk.

“The name always draws people in, and that can open the door,” Doughty said. “But they keep coming back because it tastes good.”

To ensure a stable supply of milk, Doughty bought a starter flock of sheep in 2010. Then she partnered with ranchers Rex and Kerry Williams to help milk and take care of the sheep.

Her second sheep’s milk cheese, the ivory-centered, tangy Shepherdista, hit the market in 2011. This versatile cheese — delicious on its own or melted in a panini — became an instant hit with local chefs.

“We adore the Shepherdista with our Black Pig Bacon Pan Forte,” said Duskie Estes of Zazu Kitchen + Farm in Sebastopol. “Seana is now making a sheep’s milk blue called Ewelicious that might be one of my favorite cheeses of all time.” Ewelicious, mild and balanced for a blue cheese, launched in October and was sold out by Nov. 20. But cheese lovers can expect a more generous supply of Bleating Heart cheeses (priced at $30 to $40 a pound) in the future.

Seana Doughty, cutting curd with her husband, Dave Dalton, at Bleating Heart Creamery outside Petaluma. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Seana Doughty, cutting curd with her husband, Dave Dalton, at Bleating Heart Creamery outside Petaluma. (photo by Chris Hardy)

After renting from five other creameries, Doughty finally settled in 2013 into a creamery of her own, built by her husband and business partner, Dave Dalton, in an old milk house he renovated on the Thornton Ranch near Tomales. As a bonus, that ranch also has a sheep dairy, enabling her to double her milk supply this year.

“I am now doing cheese full time,” said Doughty, who quit her day job in December. “It’s such a game changer.”

This year, Bleating Heart also plans to release a new raw cow’s milk blue cheese called Moolicious, made with Jersey milk from up the road.

“It’s an American original,” Doughty said. “I have never been interested in modeling after European cheeses.”

To find Doughty’s cheeses, visit bleatingheart.com.

Sarah Cahn Bennett grew up at Navarro Vineyards in Philo in Anderson Valley, which her parents founded in 1973. While studying viticulture and enology at UC Davis, she befriended cheesemaker Erika Scharfen.

“She was working in the goat barn, and she had done some cheesemaking in France,” Bennett said. “We started out tasting cheeses and wines.”

As an offshoot of the Navarro winery, Bennett and Scharfen launched Pennyroyal Farmstead in 2012 at a new creamery built in Boonville, where they make cheese daily from a flock of pampered goats and sheep.

Thornton Ranch sheep, source of milk for Bleating Heart Creamery outside Petaluma. (photo by Chris Hardy)
Thornton Ranch sheep, source of milk for Bleating Heart Creamery outside Petaluma. (photo by Chris Hardy)

“We milk 99 goats and 32 sheep,” said Bennett, who named the farm after an aromatic plant that grows like a weed in Anderson Valley. “That sounds like a lot, but the milk is equivalent to about 10 cows.”

The farmstead’s cheeses include Laychee, a popular, fresh goat cheese ($9 for a 6-ounce tub); Bollie’s Mollies, a firm, white cheese that ripens with a gray-blue surface mold ($10 for a 4.5-ounce round); Boonter’s Blue, a raw, mixed-milk cheese that won a blue ribbon at the 2013 American Cheese Society Competition ($13 for a 7-ounce wedge); and Boont Corners, a raw sheep’s and goat’s milk wheel released at two months of age ($9.50 for 6 ounces), four to six months ($15) and seven to 10 months ($17).

“We just released Velvet Sister,” Bennett said of the Camembert-style, 10-ounce wheel ($19). “And we’re building a tasting room onsite.”

This summer, Pennyroyal also plans to offer tours and release the first of the Pennyroyal wines, made by Bennett.

“There’s a 2012 Pinot and a 2013 Sauvignon Blanc,” she said. “I made a little bit of rosé as well.”

The cheeses are available at Oliver’s Markets in Santa Rosa and Cotati, The Cheese Shop in Healdsburg, at the winery, and at navarrowine.com.

The Next Big Cheese

Lisa Gottreich, cheesemaker of Bohemian Creamery, who makes some very creative cheeses from goat, sheep and cow’s milk in a former milking barn in Sebastopol. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Outside of Bohemian Creamery in Sebastopol, a herd of goats grazes and gazes over the grassy plains of the Laguna de Santa Rosa, all the way to the sloping shoulders of Mount St. Helena.

But inside the former milking barn, cheesemaker Lisa Gottreich doesn’t have time to enjoy the panorama. She is too busy monitoring the stainless steel cheese vat, where 220 pounds of coagulated cow’s milk wait to be cut by hand.

“This is the only time you see a cheesemaker move,” Gottreich said, carefully lowering the curd knife — a large paddle with horizontal wires — in order to cut the curds and extract the solids from the whey.

Over the course of the next few hours, the 52-year-old never seems to stop moving, her hands a blur of molding and draining, rinsing and mopping.

“I used to have a desk job, so I’m sick of sitting,” she said. “I like scrubbing the floor because you get instant results. It’s not like making cheese, which takes months and months.”

After the curds are sliced vertically, Gottreich and her assistant quickly scoop them into colanders and plop them down on stainless steel tables, where the liquid whey runs off into buckets.

That evening, the solid curds will be pressed, then flipped and pressed again, all to extract as much whey as possible, before going into a brine bath for the next two months.

That’s when this batch of soft, rich Boho Belle cheese, reminiscent of the Bel Paese cheese of Lombardy, Italy, will emerge at the Healdsburg Cheese Shop and at restaurants all over the Bay Area.

While most chefs serve Bohemian Creamery cheeses on cheese plates, some, like Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, use them in dishes, from French onion soup to ravioli.

“What I love about Lisa is that she is very creative and passionate,” said chef Dustin Valette, who showcases Bohemian Creamery cheeses at the Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. “She’s a chef’s cheesemaker.”

Gottreich is part of a new wave of Sonoma County cheesemakers joining veterans such as Bellwether Farms and Redwood Hill Farm in raising the bar for the North Bay’s array of cheeses.

Like a Wine Country chef, Gottreich will give a classic cheese her own twist. Her first cheese, Capriago, is a play on Italy’s semifirm Asiago cheese, but made with goat’s instead of cow’s milk. Her sweet and nutty Cowabunga showcases a thin ribbon of cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) running through it.

“I’m using Cowabunga right now at the restaurant,” Valette said. “It’s a sweet, sticky goat cheese inside, and a fresh, briny cow’s milk flavor on the outside.”

Gottreich uses Russian River Brewing Company’s Consecration, an ale aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, to wash the rinds of The Bomb, a sheep-goat blend fashioned after France’s stinky Epoisses cheese. HolyMoly, a soft-ripened goat cheese with lots of eyes (holes), also gets a Consecration wash.

Like many cheesemakers, Gottreich fell into the field by accident, after pursuing a string of careers. “I’m basically unemployable,” she said. “Whatever I do, I have to do it for myself.”

The daughter of immigrants from Hungary and Sweden, Gottreich grew up in Bolinas in West Marin, surrounded by goats and other farm animals.

She majored in economics and philosophy at UC Berkeley, studied abroad in Padua, Italy, then returned to Italy to work in film. After graduate studies in European Integration in Washington, D.C., she worked on trade issues with the U.S. and the European Union.

Lisa Gottreich and her assistant, Lauren Helvajian, stir the curd to break up larger clumps so it can cook evenly. (photo by Chris Hardy)

All the while, she was exploring cheese, eventually taking the plunge into production after a sudden divorce left her with two kids to raise.

“I like it because it’s multifaceted,” she said. “I take care of my goats for a while, then I make cheese, and then I schmooze with chefs.”

Starting out in 2008 with a leased vat in the town of Bodega, Gottreich expanded two years later to her current Sebastopol digs, just a minute from her home. She credits her creativity to her ingrained “stubbornness.”

“I ask, ‘What can’t be done?’” she said. “And then I try to make it happen.”

One of her new experiments involves a “surf and turf” cheese, featuring dried, toasted seaweed culled from the Sonoma Coast.

Also in the works is a tasting room where visitors can purchase her cheeses and take a tour of the aging rooms, where Gottreich works her magic in the mysterious ripening process known as affinage.

“If you’re a piece of cheese, it’s in your intent to grow old,” Gottreich said. “It’s nice to work with something where age is respected.”

Wine Apps

When’s the last time you saw someone in a tasting room poring over a folder of printouts, or better yet a travel guide, while planning their next winery stop?

Probably the last time you saw an actual foldable map.

It doesn’t happen. You take your last sip, consult your smartphone and you’re off to the next tasting room.

But Sonoma wine apps land all over the “map”: One is great for wine-tasting deals, another takes you on virtual video tours and another has the “jammy, oaky, fruit-forward” lexicon you want to try out on every pourer.

Until someone puts it all together in one simple interface, here is a quick scroll through some of the best free Sonoma wine apps:

Tasting Passes
The gist: Imagine Groupon for wine tasting that covers both Sonoma and Napa. Recent deals offered a 2-for-1 mountaintop tasting at Kunde Family Estate in Kenwood and a tasting of seven wines for $10 at Fritz Underground Winery in Cloverdale.
Random detail: “Bad Driving in Napa Valley” video
Use it for: Saving on tasting fees.

iVisit Sonoma County
The gist: Wineries are only a small part of this app and it’s more of a laundry list from A-Z, but it does tell you if a winery is pet-friendly, or grows its grapes organically, or if it offers tours.
Random detail: Dry Creek General Store listed under “Breweries”
Use it for: The bigger picture, like when you want to unwine and drink a locally brewed beer, unwind at a spa, go to a museum or hit the links.

Wine Road
The gist: Great maps, quick access to information on Wine Road events such as Barrel Tasting and Winter WINEland, and beginners can pick up tips in the Wine 101 section.
Random detail: List of wine tasting terms, which includes “musty,” “sweaty” and “blood”
Use it for: The lay of the land and quick-hit Food & Wine magazine picks.

Wineries of Dry Creek Valley
The gist: One of the best single-valley apps, with a clever wine-wheel layout and decent dining blurbs.
Random detail: Big shoutout for the Sonoma County Wine Library under “Activities”
Use it for: The specials, such as this recent Dry Creek Vineyard winery deal: “Mention this app and receive wine club benefits for the day”; and the carefully selected Dog Friendly Trail and Green Trail of organic and Biodynamic wineries.

Prepare to Launch!

Seth Schwebs, left sets a kite aloft while Temesgen Schwebs, Steven Johansen and Kristen Schwebs share snacks during a hiking break at the Taylor Mountain Open Space in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Go fly a kite. And that’s meant in the nicest way possible.

“There is something fascinating about watching them float in the sky,” said Lynette Gosch, co-owner of Second Wind, one of, yes, two kites shops in the tiny town of Bodega Bay. “People like to look at them; they’re attracted to them. They give people a sense of being free.”

Fliers can experience the same feeling, a meditative calm that comes from gazing at open skies, hearing the flapping of the soaring sails, and experiencing the tension and quivers of the kite’s strings or controls in their hands.

The windy Sonoma Coast has emerged as one of the nation’s best-known spots for kite flying, welcoming both the casual, lazy-days-of-childhood fliers and the highly competitive sporting types, who seek an adrenaline rush instead of a calming peace. “We didn’t get the name ‘Blow-dega Bay’ for nothing,” Gosch said. “You frequently have good winds and we have some good, accessible beaches.”

Flying a kite at Dillon Beach. (photo by Chris Chung)
Flying a kite at Dillon Beach. (photo by Chris Chung)

A favorite spot is Doran Regional Park, which features a wide beach facing the relatively calm bay, with no power lines or trees to disrupt flight.

“It’s a great way to spend a day out in nature. … It’s just a great escape,” said David Love, co-owner of Candy & Kites, the other kite store in town.

Flying kites is one of those pastimes that can appeal to people of all levels of skill. It requires a modest initial investment and getting started is not difficult, though competitive kite flying, using huge two- and four-line stunt kites, can be strenuous. “We call it a workout in a bag,” Gosch said.

So popular is the kite sport on the coast that Doran Regional Park has hosted the Castle and Kites festival for nine years, an exhibition of both kite flying and sandcastle making. Scheduled for May 3 at the park, the event is free, but parking is limited and subject to a $7 day-use charge.

Both kite shops will have displays, and Second Wind plans to have a sales booth and will have its competitive kite-flying team on hand to offer lessons to fliers of all skill levels and degrees of seriousness. Kite legend Dodd Gross, a champion flier and kite designer, will be at the festival, giving tips and meeting fans.

For more information on the sport of kite flying, check out the American Kitefliers Association at kite.org.

Spring wines to like

The days are longer and the light brighter, igniting the urge to get outdoors into air that’s fresh and invigorating. Easter brunch on a lovely patio might be the ticket. These wines will add to all sorts of spring dalliances.

Petite Sirah for St. Patrick’s Day

If you like:

Stags’ Leap Winery 2010 Ne Cede Malis Estate Grown Stags Leap District Petite Sirah ($80)
As brooding as a young Liam Neeson, this wine will gain layers of complexity as it ages, taking on power and nuance in equal parts. With supple, dark blueberry fruit and sensuous tannins, this is among Napa Valley’s greatest portrayals of Petite Sirah. Ne Cede Malis is Latin for “Don’t give in to misfortune.”

Then try:

Ridge 2007 Dynamite Hill California Petite Sirah ($32)
Part of Petite Sirah’s beauty is its ability to age, so getting your mitts on this 2007 vintage from Fritz Maytag’s York Creek Vineyard on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley is highly recommended. It affords a fortunate chance to get a delicious education in a red wine with softened tannins, proper white pepper and mature fruit. Pair with spring lamb.

Albariño for daylight savings time

If you like:

Marimar Estate 2012 Don Miguel Vineyard Russian River Valley Albariño ($32)
The winery’s third vintage of this iconic Spanish white (and the right go-to when there’s an extra hour of sunlight in the evening), the Don Miguel Albariño is a celebration of citrus in all its natural acidity, with pretty floral aromatics accenting the medium-bodied experience from start to finish. To pair? Think fresh fish.

Then try:

Schulz Cellars 2012 Dragone Vineyard Calaveras County Albariño ($20)
Sourced from the Sierra Foothills, this crisp Albariño offers floral scents and a taste of bright citrus and textured apple. Fresh and enjoyable, it’s a fine match at dusk with shellfish and appetizers. Sonoma-based Schulz is family-run; John Schulz doubles as the national sales director for Dutton-Goldfield in Russian River Valley.

Viognier for springs beginnings

If you like:

Freemark Abbey 2012 Napa Valley Viognier ($32)
A wine rich in tropical fruit tones and a finish of toast and vanillin oak, this is a powerhouse Viognier that’s still buoyant in acidity. It comes from a producer with a consistently good track record with the grape. Pair this wine with chicken, fish or a brunch meal built around ham and buttery eggs.

Then try:

Bonterra 2012 Mendocino County Viognier ($14)
Made from organically grown grapes, this is a delicious and easygoing Viognier with flavors of fresh apricot and lemon-lime. It’s multitalented as a porch sipper and also an accompaniment to spicy dishes and seafood.

Pinot Noir for Earth Day

If you like:

Siduri 2012 Keefer Ranch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($52)
Siduri has made wine from the famed Keefer Ranch since 2000, one of its longest-standing sites. Gorgeously floral, this Pinot also has an earthy personality that would please John Muir. It’s exquisite as a sipper and pairs handsomely with mushroom- and herb-accented dishes.

Then try:

Siduri 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($32)
Blended from multiple sites within the vast Russian River Valley, this is a tremendous wine and a tremendous deal, fruit-forward and lush in red cherry and cola flavors, with plenty of earth and herb nuances.