Valette restaurant is casual upscale dining in Healdsburg

Ahi Tuna with macadamia snow at Valette in Healdsburg, CA
Ahi Tuna with macadamia snow at Valette in Healdsburg, CA

In late 2014, Chef Dustin Valette left his position as executive chef of Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen to begin full-time work at his current eponymous Center Street restaurant. But the inspiration for the restaurant goes back 75 years to when Valette’s grandfather, Honore, owned the building.

Dungeness crab stuffed Petrale sole Dustin Valette, owner/chef of Valette in Healdsburg
Dungeness crab stuffed Petrale sole Dustin Valette, owner/chef of Valette in Healdsburg

“We spent some serious time thinking about what to call our new little ‘baby’ and we couldn’t get away from Valette,” he said. “It pays homage to our family’s history with the building.”

His brother, Aaron Garzini, is co-owner and runs the front of the house. Brother Les Garzini built the charcuterie box, and Valette’s dad, Bob, plays unofficial host from the bar, flitting from table to table.

The interior is minimal, with the focus on hand-hewn furniture made from a 750-year-old redwood stump and a pop of fire-engine red from a vintage Berkel meat slicer given as a gift from one of his culinary admirers for his housemade charcuterie.

Zin: It came as a shock when owners Jeff and Susan Mall closed shop and moved to Mexico. Zin was an iconic Wine Country destination with a Southern twist. The couple have returned, creating a bean to bar chocolateria called Volo. Replaced by Valette.
Zin: It came as a shock when owners Jeff and Susan Mall closed shop and moved to Mexico. Zin was an iconic Wine Country destination with a Southern twist. The couple have returned, creating a bean to bar chocolateria called Volo. Replaced by Valette.

That leaves plenty of breathing room for the dishes, which have more unexpected twists and turns than an Alfred Hitchcock movie.

Get ready for some pretty involved descriptions of what you’re eating. One feels a little sorry for the wait staff who have to remember things like the deconstructed Nicoise salad of ahi tuna, olives, cucumber, chive, 64-degree egg and olive oil “snow.”

But the idea is that every sense should be stimulated before the food actually gets to your mouth. Verbal descriptions fire the imagination (“What in the world is olive oil snow and how will that taste?”). An artistic combination of colors, spacing and texture visually stuns. Wafts of ocean, olive and cucumber tease the nose. The pudding-like egg begs for a touch. And finally it all goes into the mouth as the culmination and, if you’re lucky, chewing becomes an out-of-body experience. Seriously.

Valette in Healdsburg was the only North Bay restaurant to make OpenTable's 2015 list of 100 Best Restaurants for Foodies in America. (JOHN BURGESS/The Press Democrat)
Valette in Healdsburg was the only North Bay restaurant to make OpenTable’s 2015 list of 100 Best Restaurants for Foodies in America. (JOHN BURGESS/The Press Democrat)

Here’s a tip: Immerse yourself in the chef’s “Trust Me” tasting menu, which is a guided tour through four (or more) dishes on the menu. At $15 per course, you’ll get the most bang for your buck.

Also on the menu (prices are a la carte):

Day Boat Scallops en Croute: A signature dish, this is a visual stunner. Puffed pastry topped with squid ink, hiding a giant scallop in creamy champagne beurre blanc with Pernod and shaved fennel ($17).

Scallops en croute at Valette.
Scallops en croute at Valette.

House-made semolina pasta with walnut pesto, English peas, arugula and prosciutto ($12) is the essence of spring.

Foie Gras Two Ways (tasting menu only): Welcome back, foie. A seared lobe of foie gras, and terrine atop kiwi, kumquat and almonds with grilled brioche ($15).

Crispy Skin Bass with saffron risotto pave, charred octopus and roasted pepper sofrito ($28).

Seared Kobe beef with foie gras butter (tasting menu only): So rich it seems almost sinful. Almost. ($15)

Day Boat Scallops en Croûte from Valette in Healdsburg. Haute cuisine in a friendly, neighborhood atmosphere, Chef Dustin Valette’s signature dish includes sustainably caught scallops with Bernier Farms leeks, shaved fennel, and American caviar. As pretty to look at as it is delicious to eat. 344 Center St, Healdsburg, 707-473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com (Courtesy Photo)

Charcoal roasted potatoes — so dark black that they look like mussel shells (is that a hint of squid ink?) with a smoky quality that’s either reminiscent of a campfire or an ashtray, depending on your outlook. ($7)

Brown butter ice cream, rhubarb and brioche, and the Mignardise (petit fours). Prices vary.

Dustin Valette and his father Bob
Dustin Valette and his father Bob at the Vallete restaurant in Healdsburg. Chef Dustin Valette, who along with other local chefs, fed those misplaced by the Kincade fire, while his father, Cal Fire pilot Bob Valette went to work fighting the fire from the air. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

There’s a reason why people spend hundreds of dollars for a meal — to delight every sense, one at a time. Showcasing the best local products, well-studied technique and creative execution from pan to plate, Valette delivers on that promise.

Valette Restaurant, 344 Center St., Healdsburg, (707) 473-0946, valettehealdsburg.com

Events: Get Out and Have Some Fun

The Luther Burbank Rose Parade is on Saturday, May 16. (photo by Conner Jay)

Lots to do in the months of May and June! Check out these summer events and add them to your calendar!

May 3

Day Under the Oaks: From magic shows in the chem lab to food trucks to Native American dancers, this annual Santa Rosa Junior College open house offers entertainment for all. The day includes planetarium shows, the Shone Farm petting zoo, arts and crafts, jazz and contemporary music, and more. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Free admission and parking.
Santa Rosa Junior College, 1501 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-527-4424, santarosa.edu/about_srjc/day-under-the-oaks

May 10

Mother’s Day Bubbles & BBQ: Give Mom an afternoon of ease and fun at this Sonoma winery. Enjoy a lavish barbecue buffet that will include slow-cooked beef brisket, pork spareribs and chicken. Sip award-winning sparkling wines and listen to live blues music. It’s not just for mothers; the entire family is welcome. Noon-2 p.m. $70; $45 for children 12 and younger.
Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, 23555 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-996-7256, gloriaferrer.com

May 16

Luther Burbank Rose Parade & Festival: Few hometown traditions have this one’s track record. The theme for this year’s 121st parade is “Out of a Story Book.” Named for Luther Burbank, the world-famous horticulturist who lived in Santa Rosa in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the parade starts downtown at 10 a.m. After the parade, the fun continues with a festival on Old Courthouse Square. Parade starts at Sonoma Avenue and E Street, proceeds north on E, turns west onto Fourth Street, then south on Mendocino Avenue.
707-523-3728, roseparadefestival.com

May 15-17

Taste Alexander Valley: The three-day adventure for wine lovers offers special access to more than 45 wineries, plus dinner and a barn dance on May 15 (6-9:30 p.m. at a private equestrian ranch, $150). Winery open houses are held from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on May 16 and 17. Weekend pass $70 in advance, $80 at the door; Sunday only $50 in advance, $60 at the door.
888-289-4637, alexandervalley.org

May 21

Healdsburg Twilight Parade: A charming bit of hometown Americana endures in downtown Healdsburg, where the local Future Farmers of America will put on their 66th annual parade, starting at
6 p.m. By that time, savvy locals already will have staked out a spot on the sidewalk. The parade is part of the three-day Healdsburg Future Farmers Country Fair, running May 21-23.
healdsburgfair.org

Healdsburg Jazz Festival. (photo by Alvin Jornada)
Healdsburg Jazz Festival. (photo by Alvin Jornada)

May 30-June 7

Healdsburg Jazz Festival:  The nine-day festival opens this year with a two-day mini-festival, “Jazz and the Music of the Americas,” featuring prominent Latin musicians with a jazz connection, including Eddie Palmieri, Pablo Ziegler and Brazilian diva Leny Andrade with Roni Ben-Hur. The Healdsburg area’s 17th summer celebration of jazz continues with George Cable, Kenny Barron, the Benny Green Trio and more.
707-433-4644, healdsburgjazz.org

May 31

“Fresh Paint”: Broadway performer Lexy Fridell, well-known to fans of Transcendence Theatre’s outdoor summer musical revues at Jack London State Historic Park, will star at this 15th annual fundraiser for the Sonoma Valley Museum of Art, to be held at a private site in Glen Ellen. The evening includes cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and dinner prepared by Olive & Vine. $500.
707-939-7862, svma.org

June 5-7

Country Summer: More than two dozen country stars, many of them young and rapidly rising talents, put on a three-day party at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa, with performances by Jake Owen, The Band Perry, Brantley Gilbert, Gary Allan, Chris Young, Lee Brice, Jerrod Niemann and Trace Adkins. $69-$129 for one day, $189-$369 for three days.
Sonoma County Fairgrounds, 1350 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, 707-543-0100, countrysummer.com

June 6-7 & 13-14

Art at the Source: Art lovers can go above and beyond the typical gallery or museum experience, and see the artists at work during this annual open studio tour in western Sonoma County, sponsored by the Sebastopol Center for the Arts. Each year, more than 150 artists open their workspaces to visitors, offering demonstrations, conversation and a close-up view of the creative process. Paintings, sculptures, fabric art and jewelry are among the many things of beauty that will be made before your eyes, and one-of-a-kind creations will be for sale. Free.
707-829-4797, artatthesource.org

June 12-13

Huichica Music Festival: Gundlach Bundschu Winery, long known for its fresh and fun-filled ideas, brings back its annual spring indie-rock music and food festival this year. It opens with a concert on June 12 and continues the next day with more than a dozen other bands and great food choices. Friday $40, Saturday $55, two-day pass $85-$120.
2000 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707-938-5277, huichicamusicfestival.com

Sonoma County Hot Air Balloon Classic. (photo by John Burgess)
Sonoma County Hot Air Balloon Classic. (photo by John Burgess)

June 20-21

Sonoma County Hot Air Balloon Classic: Get a close look at as many as 30 hot air balloons as they rise over Windsor’s Keiser Park. Bundle up and show up at 5 a.m. either day for the Dawn Patrol, to see the balloons light up the dark sky. The main launch starts at 6:30 a.m. both days, and the festival continues until 11 a.m. with food and craft booths, and activities for kids. $10 adult, $5 children.
700 Windsor River Road, Windsor, schabc.org

June 24-28

Sonoma-Marin Fair: By far the best-known event at Petaluma’s annual down-home hoedown is the World’s Ugliest Dog Contest, which receives national attention. But the fair also books a strong lineup of rock and country music acts. Past performers include the Marshall Tucker Band, Kix Brooks and Loverboy.
Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds, 175 Fairgrounds Drive, Petaluma, 707-283-3247, sonoma-marinfair.org

Late June-Early September

Rodney Strong Summer Concert Series: This perennial favorite really captures the charm of a Sonoma County summer. Surrounded by acres of beautiful vineyards, guests can enjoy fine wines, stunning scenery and performances by top names in jazz, pop and rock while picnicking at the winery’s outdoor venue, the Concert Green. Check the website for the schedule.
11455 Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-0998, rodneystrong.com

Elevate Your Listening With These Top-Notch Sound Systems

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Waffle Day: How to make Red Velvet Waffles

For some reason, waffles always remind me of vacation. Maybe it’s because I associate them with hotels where you can make your own waffles for breakfast. So when I make them at home, it always feels like a special occasion.

These waffles would be perfect for a holiday or celebration, or any time you want breakfast to feel a little noteworthy. They are amazing topped with Cream Cheese Drizzle (recipe follows), but I also love them with just a drizzle of maple syrup.

Ingredients (Serves 6)

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon table salt
  • 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
  • 1⁄4 cup packed brown sugar
  • 3 large eggs, separated
  • 2 cups buttermilk
  • 1 1⁄2 tablespoons natural unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1 tablespoon red liquid food coloring

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 200° F and preheat a waffle iron. Whisk the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl to combine.
  2. Combine the melted butter and brown sugar in a separate large bowl. Whisk in the egg
yolks and buttermilk. Mix the cocoa powder and red food coloring in a small bowl to make a smooth paste, then whisk the paste into the butter mixture. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients just until moistened (the batter should be slightly lumpy).
  3. Beat the egg whites in a medium bowl with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Stir one-quarter of the egg whites into the batter to lighten it. Then fold in the remaining egg whites gently but thoroughly.
  4. Spray a waffle iron with nonstick cooking spray or brush with melted butter. Cook the waffles according to the manufacturer’s instructions. As they’re done, put them on a baking sheet and slide them into the oven to keep them warm while you cook the remaining waffles.

Cream Cheese Drizzle

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces cream cheese, softened
  • ¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
  • A pinch of table salt
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons milk

Directions

To make the cream cheese drizzle: Beat the cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and salt in a bowl. Beat in enough milk to make a pourable mixture.

Spiced Almond Cocktail TNP Originals

In a small saucepan, combine spiced rum, amaretto, almond milk, cinnamon sticks, and star anise pods. Heat to a simmer and remove from heat. Let steep for at least 5 minutes. Pour into a glass and garnish with ground cinnamon.

– 1.5 oz. Spiced Rum

– 1 oz. Amaretto

– 4 oz. Almond Milk

– 2 cinnamon sticks

– 2-3 pieces whole Star Anise Pods

– Ground cinnamon, for garnish

In a small saucepan, combine spiced rum, amaretto, almond milk, cinnamon sticks, and star anise pods. Heat to a simmer and remove from heat. Let steep for at least 5 minutes. Pour into a glass and garnish with ground cinnamon.

friday_cheers

 

Eat Breakfast Erin Heatherton’s Eggs & Avocado

Blake Lively is currently on the promo tour for Age of Adeline, and when she isn’t being asked questions about her daughter James, she’s getting changed.

When we chatted with model Erin Heatherton, she gave us her go-to breakfast (aka our two favorite items on one plate): Eggs and avocado. Here’s how to make it like she does, because who doesn’t want to eat breakfast like a model?

Eggs and Avocado Toast 

ingr2 organic free-range eggs

2 slices of Free Bread

1 quarter of an avocado

1 slice of lemon

A pinch of salt, pepper, and red chili flakes

Kelapo Extra Virgin Coconut Oil Non-Stick Cooking Spray

Fresh Parsley

Toast the bread. While it’s toasting, fry two eggs using coconut oil spray on medium/low heat. Cover with lid.

While toast is finishing, cut a slice of lemon and a quarter of avocado and place on plate.

Using a fork, mash the avocado onto the toast and squeeze the lemon wedge on top. Alongside (or on top) place the eggs.

Sprinkle eggs and toast with chili flakes, salt, and pepper to your liking. A dash of olive oil on the toast is also delicious.

Garnish with some fresh parsley.

 

Peter Mondavi Because Wine’s Our Middle Name This Month

With Spring finally here, we decided it was time to celebrate possibly our favorite drink of the season (or every season for that matter): Wine. On our recent trip to Napa.

“Today I was asked when I realized I was in the wrong body. As much as it took me a really long time to come to terms with it, I think I have known since I can remember—since I could even think about gender or notice it. I was thinking about when I was in pre-K ,and I would dress up as Cinderella and do girl things. If I decided to wear a dress or roleplay as a princess, my teachers would tell me I couldn’t do it because I was a boy. So when you have everyone in your life telling you that you’re a boy, you kind of start to believe it, even though none of it comes naturally to you.

My transition has been a very gradual, very cerebral process. For a lot of people, it’s very easy to reduce gender to bodies, and that’s terrible. So to answer that question that I was asked today, I realized I was a woman after I was already living as a woman for about a year or so. Before that, I had this platinum blond hair, acrylics, and would dress in skirts, and wear purses—but I still identified as male. I was open-minded enough, growing up, to think that even if my outward appearance was female, I could still be male. If you read enough queer theory, you realize any sort of conjunction is possible. There are boys who want experience life as women but still be boys, and that’s valid.

I never understood why people would think that men couldn’t be as beautiful as women, so for a long time I didn’t have a word for myself. I was like, ‘I’m not a boy but I can’t let myself be a woman.’ So at the time I was like, ‘OK, I’ll be something else.’ It was weird for me, and in some ways, my thinking allowed me to keep putting off how I felt inside by just covering it up with this cerebral explanation.

[blockquote author=”” pull=”normal”]There is a lot of psychological tension in trying to discuss anything with gender identity.[/blockquote]

I used to wear a lot more makeup. I fucking love Boy George, and I would put on that amount of makeup—like Boy George amounts of makeup. My eyeliner would like reach my hairline. I would go really crazy with it. I would try to overcompensate. Now I’m much more toned down, but I feel like all girls have that phase when experimenting with makeup for the first time. Though, if I started off putting on the amount of makeup I wear now, I knew I would just look like who I really am, and I think I was just not ready for that.

I was 14 years old when I got my first taste of makeup. I was in a band as the lead singer and we were playing one of our first shows. At that point all I could get away with was straightening my hair maybe once a month. So yeah, I was at my first show, and I remember finding a Revlon retractable black eyeliner in the bathroom.

Rustic-Wine-Rack-5-bottles

I put it on my waterline, not even thinking about the fact that I could get an eye infection as I picked it up off the floor—it was disgusting. I guess the cool thing about being in a band is that there is so much more freedom. There’s the classic ‘Dude (Looks Like A Lady)‘-feel. I felt like I could wear the eyeliner, and no one would care because I was at a rock show. Then I wore it again to a crowd that was more of a hardcore scene, and it wasn’t a cool experience. They were screaming at me to get off the stage and calling me the F word. I was just like, ‘Wow, OK.’ I was 15 at that point. It was a terrible wake up call to me, all because I was wearing eyeliner—it’s not that big of a deal, and yet, people are already policing me for not performing this gender that I’m pretending to be. Obviously I was doing a shitty job at performing male. Sometimes I tell people that I really feel like I was in drag for over a decade, in the sense of performing male gender roles. I’d end the night and make sure to wipe off my eyeliner before I got home.

I had really bad acne in high school, so I’d get away with wearing coverall and that’s it. Still, my mother would look at me from her bed—I did, and still do, my makeup in her room because it has the best lighting—and be like, ‘What are you doing?’ I used to tell my mom like, ‘Don’t worry! I’ll never wear mascara!’ But it all happens…100 YouTube tutorials later you emerge in full face [Laughs].

I always admired makeup. I’d watch my grandma doing her makeup, and she’d always be put together. She would tell me that photos are forever, you can’t take it lightly, and you have to perfect it. Little things like that really stuck with me. Without my mother’s permission, I dyed my hair platinum blonde as a teenager. Having white hair changes your life, regardless of gender identity. It is a really crazy experience. You learn about so many different sides of people and how they perceive you—it’s crazy. It was motivation, I guess, and it was the first instance of feeling like I can’t hide myself.

I was really obsessed with Final Fantasy at the time, especially the Final Fantasy villains. If you really look at a Final Fantasy villain and analyze it, it’s a female head on a male body. I felt connected to the possibility of being really pretty, even if my body didn’t match up—there was a chance for the head portion to be on-point and consistent with how I view myself. After that, I started really diving into makeup as identity. Beauty can be a big deal for all girls, but beauty for a trans girl could be life-or-death. There’s moments when you could be placed in danger for not passing as a woman convincingly enough. One time I was walking with my friend and a guy was trying to holler at me, then he took out a knife. Makeup is much more serious to trans women. Even cis girls can relate—they get attacked and bullied in schools, growing up, because they’re not pretty enough.

I really feel bad for a lot of trans people and trans women who don’t have the experience [with makeup] before they come into themselves and have to learn to do their makeup in no time. They’re 35, they have kids, and they need to transition then—that’s the bravest thing ever. That’s not to say that I think people transitioning later in life necessarily need to wear makeup to be who they are. I just identified with it. The way I did it was just like how every girl picks up makeup skills—where your mom is like, ‘You can only put on lipgloss.’ You need time to practice, so it looks good. I used to just have these Zen three-hour makeup sessions. Of course, during the day I just wear tinted moisturizer, concealer, and maybe mascara. Sometimes I’ll do a wing, but just a little bit on the outer edge. But at night…at night is when I’d really take my time. I’d do my makeup from 7pm to 10pm and go out at midnight.

Duck Club Restaurant Most Beautiful View in America?

The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.

People.com has chosen Bodega Bay’s Duck Club Restaurant as one of its 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant views in the US.

According to the magazine, ”The stone fireplace is the centerpiece at this cozy, clubby eatery, but the panoramic views of Bodega Bay and the Pacific Ocean deserve equal billing. Nestled in a dreamy bay, the restaurant overlooks a wildlife sanctuary, adding to the serene, natural beauty.”

Just another day in paradise.

The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.
The Duck Club in Bodega Bay, CA has been named one of the 10 Most Beautiful Restaurant Views in America according to People.com.

 

Purroy Takes Kitchen Reins at Sonoma State

New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy
New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy
New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy
New Sonoma State Chef Alexandre Purroy

Chef Alexandre Purroy, formerly of Doce Lunas Restaurant in Kenwood, has taken over the kitchens of Sonoma State.

Students, faculty and Green Music Center attendees have come to expect serious Wine Country cuisine from the educational institution since the arrival of Food Network personality Eric Lee upped the school’s culinary ante in 2013.

Lee left last August, but Purroy seems well suited to handle the big shoes, having spent most of his career in large hotel kitchens throughout the world. We’re looking forward to seeing how he’ll change up the menus.

Goose and Gander: New Chef Howard Lee Ko

Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef
Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef
Chef Howard Lee Ko takes over as Chef de Cuisine at St. Helena's Goose & Gander
Chef Howard Lee Ko takes over as Chef de Cuisine at St. Helena’s Goose & Gander

St. Helena’s Goose & Gander has tapped Chef Howard Lee Ko as its new chef de cuisine. Most recently from the kitchens of Michelin darlings Restaurant at Meadowood and the French Laundry (as well as Picholine and Daniel in NYC), he’s some serious firepower for the nearly four-year-old restaurant. Opening chef Kelly McCown left last winter after an offer in Sacramento.

Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef
Goose & Gander in St. Helena, CA has announced a new chef

“We are thrilled Howard Ko is leading our culinary team at Goose & Gander.  He brings his incredible talent, vast experience and a fresh, new perspective to our restaurant and is excited to add his take on the popular style enjoyed by our many happy regulars.  The timing is perfect as we embark on our fourth year of business. . .we feel very fortunate to have him with us,” said proprietor Andrew Florsheim.

The restaurant, which was formerly the Martini House, received solid reviews under McCown and got a well-need facelift when new owners took over in 2012. The upstairs/downstairs space features a large dining room and an intimate and well-loved bar downstairs. The menu, described as “public house” new American cuisine includes hearty dishes like steak tartare, roasted bone marrow, burgers, duck confit and pan roasted chicken. No word yet on when/if the menu will change. Goose & Gander is located at 1245 Spring Street, St. Helena, CA, 707.967.8779. The restaurant and Basement Bar are open Sunday through Thursday from noon until 11:00 PM, and stay open until midnight on Friday & Saturday.  Starting July 1, the Basement Bar is open every night until midnight, www.goosegander.com.