House of Straw Won’t Blow Down

A house made of rice straw bales is as durable as it is environmentally elegant. (photos by Rebecca Chotkowski)

017_Straw_Bale_House_R_optIf there is an Eden, it might just be in the high hills northeast of Occidental, where one of the first straw-bale dwellings in Sonoma is tucked away on a country lane.

Enter the 6-acre property through a spectacular iron gate and a curved roof in the distance teases the imagination. It signals an adventure in design in its definition of space, of inside and of outside.

A stone pathway curves through archways, one covered with kiwi vines, one with wisteria and another with an old grapevine. The path ends at a broad deck and two enormous doors, nearly as big as a double garage. Despite their size, the doors are elegant and distinctive, opening outward, not upward, into the home of Annie Scully and Patsy Young, who built the house with the help of a contractor, an architect and an array of specialty artisans 17 years ago. The inspiration came from a straw-bale home Scully had visited in Mendocino County. When she and Young found their spectacular little Occidental property, they set out to learn how to craft a new home with a similar feeling.

A glimpse into the straw wall interior of the home.
A glimpse into the straw wall interior of the home.

“It took us nine and a half months just to get the plans through the county,” Scully recalled. The home is something of a hobbit house, with gentle curves and alcoves everywhere, few angles, whimsical touches and a comfortable warmth that never wavers. On a cold day or in the midst of a sizzling heat wave, it’s about 70 degrees inside. Straw-bale walls don’t just provide structure, they provide insulation and, in a subtle way, breathe, keeping the air within fresh and pure.

“Our architect positioned the house, which faces south, so that the summer sun is directly overhead and never shines through the windows,” Scully explained.

In the winter, the sun, lower in the sky, heats the passive solar floor, which both radiates and retains heat. The thick straw-bale walls help maintain the steady temperature. For extra warmth, there is a wood stove with a beautiful hearth made of cob, a blend of straw, mud and aggregate.

Outside the broad, south-facing windows is a large, unfinished pond that will be used to collect rainwater. Beyond it are trees, some from the property’s past as an apple orchard and some recently planted, including Scully and Young’s Christmas tree from their first year here in 1998, which now stretches taller than the house. They plan to finish a gray-water system, which collects water from sinks, showers and washers for reuse on the land, sometime this year. The goal from the beginning has been to create a home with the smallest ecological footprint possible, by using recycled and chemical-free building materials, solar heating and, eventually, gray water and rainwater.

A stairway between the kitchen and living room leads to a second level, with a tiny balcony that looks down on the living room. The staircase is made of recycled redwood and bamboo, with curving manzanita banisters. Upstairs, the sitting area merges seamlessly with a bath, where an old claw-foot tub is positioned to give the bather a perfect view of the hills and woods. Another little staircase, flanking the bath, leads to the couple’s sleeping loft.

The wall that separates the kitchen from the staircase is finished with American Clay, a natural clay-based veneer that is as smooth as satin and stunningly durable. Nicks vanish with a wipe of a damp cloth and the finish shimmers in the day’s changing light.

Downstairs there is a mudroom with a washer and dryer, a tiny pantry, a kitchen counter made of what looks like granite but is actually Vetrazzo (made of recycled glass including beer bottles), and a deep copper sink.

Then comes the dining room, with its breathtaking view of the deck and the lap pool. A north-facing window is covered with bamboo curtains that suggest falling rain. There’s a little alcove filled with river rocks, and as you turn to face the kitchen, you notice a signature element that is a part of all straw-bale structures. It is a “truth window,” a view into the interior of the wall showing straw encased in chicken wire and supported by bamboo.

011_Straw_Bale_House_R_optToday, the house is 1,200 square feet. When budget allows, the dining room will be expanded with a pizza oven, and north of the deck, a master bedroom will be built. When it’s finished, Scully and Young will move into it from their little sleeping loft.

The property includes two other straw-bale buildings, one a tiny cottage with an upstairs sitting area that looks down on a gazebo made of braided mulberry trees. Scully and Young plan to expand it and turn it into a bed-and-breakfast cottage.

The other is the Moon House, originally built for Young’s parents and now occupied by a friend of Scully and Young. It is shaped like a crescent moon, with high straw-bale walls forming the outer curve and floor-to-ceiling windows creating the inner curve. The space, at just 850 square feet, feels roomy, in part because the curve of the crescent gives a feeling of inclusion, of being part of the outdoors.

As beautiful as they are, these homes are also practical and durable. Rice straw, which is used in many straw-bale buildings, is so durable that the Environmental Protection Agency has strict regulations on what can and can’t be done with it. It cannot be buried or burned, and it’s useless as compost, as it breaks down at a glacial pace. Large rice producers such as California’s Lundberg Family Farms pile up tons of rice straw, so its use as a construction material can help house the world.

Other types of straw, wheat, oat, barley and rye among them, can also be used, but rice is notable for its durability.

The main house has a stick frame that does most of the weight-bearing. The foundation has 32 piers, 11 feet deep and 2 feet wide, and the perimeter is surrounded by cement. All the materials, from the straw to the recycled redwood, are organic and chemical-free. The straw bales are encased in chicken wire, with bamboo poles weaving them together.

“It is like sewing,” Young said.

The walls are finished with stucco and plaster. Natural lime kills any bacteria that may be in the straw. The high ceiling is made of ground straw and other ingredients, produced by a man who lives in Oregon and refuses to share his recipe.

The Occidental home has taken shape slowly and continues to grow as finances allow. Young teaches Spanish at Santa Rosa Junior College and Scully is a teacher at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa, where her partner also taught for a decade. When the workday is done, they head to their enchanting little home, where the sounds of nature, and not of electronics, furnaces or water heaters, fill the air.

Often there is only a sweet, warm silence. It’s an Eden Scully and Young have created for themselves.

Beer Country: Sonoma Brews Makes News

(photo by Christopher Chung)

Some people might think it crazy to wait in line 17 hours — much of it in cold, driving rain, no less — for a 10-ounce glass of beer.

But this is not just any beer, insists nelson Rivera, who traveled more than 400 miles from Los angeles to Santa Rosa in February to taste one of the planet’s most famous and coveted brews: Russian River Brewing Co.’s Pliny the Younger.

The limited-edition triple India Pale Ale regularly ranks in the top six in the world on beer-rating websites. It’s not easy to get, sold for only two weeks a year at the downtown Santa Rosa brewpub and select locations. But it is well worth the wait, Rivera said, savoring a glass of the amber-colored beer with two friends as they dried out inside the packed brewpub and celebrated the end of their quest.

“Yes, I would do it again,” said Rivera, 23, as he enjoyed his seat at the bar and status as first in line to sip this year’s Pliny release.

Thousands make a pilgrimage to Santa Rosa every February to taste Pliny the Younger, an extra-hoppy and beautifully balanced ale with a potent 10.25 percent alcohol content. While here, visitors spend millions of dollars on lodging, meals, entertainment and more beer. In 2013, the two-week Pliny release brought some $2.4 million in economic activity to the region, according to the most recent estimates.

Pliny the Younger may be the most acclaimed beer made in Sonoma, but a scrappy and ambitious group of craft breweries is transforming a place known as the heart of California’s Wine Country into a region renowned for its stellar lineup of beers.

The number of craft breweries have doubled in Sonoma County since 2011. Two of the 22 local breweries — Lagunitas Brewing Co. in Petaluma and Bear Republic Brewing in Healdsburg and Cloverdale — are now ranked among the 50 largest craft breweries in the United States.

Up-and-comers including Fogbelt Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa, HenHouse Brewing Co. and 101 North Brewing Co. in Petaluma, and St. Florian’s Brewery in Windsor also are attracting notice. Though they are small in production volume — the equivalents of the so-called boutique wineries — they are big on cachet as word spreads of Sonoma’s ale and lager riches.

Local brewers have an effect on craft beer “like that of the Mondavi family for wine in Napa,” said Ben Stone, executive director of the Sonoma County economic Development Board. “They have created an awareness of Sonoma County, an image for Sonoma County. It really has become a hallmark for Sonoma County.”

Natalie Cilurzo, co-owner of Russian River Brewing Co., said millennials are particularly attached to craft beer because many of their parents made the switch to the first generation of full-flavored beers that began appearing in the 1980s. “That’s what they grew up with. Their parents drank Sierra Nevada,” she said. “Our parents didn’t drink Sierra Nevada. Our parents drank Miller Lite, Heineken.”

“That’s all they know,” her brewer husband, Vinnie, chimed in.

Even those in the Sonoma wine industry are taking notice, especially as craft beer attracts millennials in the highly coveted 21-to- 35 age demographic.

“Craft beer is a significant challenger for basic wines and wine needs to up its game to compete,” said Mike Veseth, editor of the Wine Economist blog. “The simplest wines are challenged by the relative value and interest that craft beers present.”

The Brewers Association, which represents U.S. craft brewers, tracks the 50 largest artisan breweries, by volume. D.G. Yuengling & Son of Pottsville, Pa., ascended to No. 1 last year, displacing Boston Beer Co., the maker of Sam Adams, at more than 6 million barrels a year (though there is some consternation that the company is considered a craft brewer). Lagunitas is No. 6, and racing to expand nationally and even internationally. Bear Republic is No. 39, and then it’s a big drop to the rest of the Sonoma pack.

America’s $100 billion annual beer industry continues to be dominated by the “Big Three,” Budweiser, Miller and Coors, yet their executives are nervous enough to create their own “craft” brands (Blue Moon and Shock Top, for example) or to buy existing craft breweries, as Budweiser did with 10 Barrel Brewing Co. in Bend, Ore. even though the little guys claim just 11 percent of the nation’s total beer production, their output grew a remarkable 18 percent in 2014, according to the Brewers association. Overall beer production was up by only 0.5 percent, attributed to a decline suffered by the big brewers. The growth has attracted private equity firms looking for investment opportunities.

Lagunitas is an imposing presence in and out of Sonoma, with owner Tony Magee’s brewery producing almost 75 percent of the beer made in the county. Production at the Petaluma brewery and a new Chicago facility will likely surpass 850,000 barrels this year, about 40 percent more than in 2014.

It’s a much different story for Lagunitas’ across-the-road neighbor, 101 North Brewing Co., which opened in September 2012. It’s on the verge of going into the black for the first time and its owners (brothers Joel, Jake and Joe Johnson, and their friends, John Brainin, John Lilienthal and Anthony Turner) use a second-hand barrel system they purchased in 2010 from Lake Placid Brewing Co. in Plattsburgh, N.Y., for a $100,000 low-bid offer that was immediately accepted.

“Those guys across the way are so much larger than us. We are quite some time away from even being some semblance of their size,” said Joel Johnson, 101 north’s brewmaster.

The company awaits delivery of two 90-barrel tanks to increase production and keep up with retailer demands; it currently has three tanks. It produced 1,750 barrels last year, a 50 percent increase in annual production. The partners had to cobble together the $1 million needed to get the brewery off the ground in 2010. Recent distribution deals with Safeway and Costco are cause for celebration at 101 north, and nearly 80 local and regional pubs serve its beer, including the popular Heroine IPA.

Johnson, 45, looks the part of new-generation brewmaster, with a soul patch, earrings in both ears and a neck tattoo. But he also has the bona fides. He brewed for Bear Republic and honed his skills making its flag- ship beer, Racer 5 IPA. Experience like that has helped 101 North compete in a crowded market, especially for the hoppy IPAs that are ubiquitous on the West Coast.

“We would like to say in 10 or 15 years that we are on our way to being more than just a speck on the map,” Johnson said. “If we could get on the top-50 brewery (list) size-wise, it would be great.”

Bartender Cheryl Avery pours a pint of beer at Taps Restaurant and Tasting Room in Petaluma. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
Bartender Cheryl Avery pours a pint of beer at Taps Restaurant and Tasting Room in Petaluma. (photo by Beth Schlanker)

The local artisan beer industry began in 1976, when Jack McAuliffe opened New Albion Brewing Co. in Sonoma. It is widely regarded as the first craft brewery in the modern era, though no longer based here. There is also a history of hop production in the region. In 1858, William Thomas Ross grew hops on one of the first farms near Forestville. Hops were a major crop in Sonoma County from 1880 to 1950, reaching a high of 3 million pounds in the 1930s.

Following in New Albion’s footsteps, the Hopland Brewery opened in 1983 in Mendocino County as the second brewpub in the U.S. after Prohibition and the first in California. Finally craft brewers had a place for patrons to eat and drink their beers. The brewery, which later became Mendocino Brewing Co., attracted a legion of fans, many of whom were home brewers who later expanded the popularity of full-flavored beers in the 1980s. That group included Ken Grossman of Sierra Nevada and Dean Biersch of Gordon Biersch Brewing Co. in Palo Alto.

“Here’s this brewpub and it had this atmosphere that was unbelievable,” Biersch said, describing the Hopland Brewery. In his latest effort, Biersch has tried to recreate that excitement by opening three local HopMonk Tavern Brewpubs (Sebastopol, Sonoma and Novato), upscale beer gardens that focus on food pairings with beer.

However, it was home brewers who helped set the stage for what craft brewing has become here, and they keep on coming. Some dream of turning their hobby into a business, and look up to those who have already made it. Grossman started as a home brewer and even operated a supply store in downtown Chico called The Home Brew Shop. Now younger brewers can gain experience at these established places, just like the guys at 101 North.

“I probably respond to a dozen to two dozen emails a week from home brewers,” said Russian River Brewing’s Vinnie Cilurzo.

Specialization is the current trend in the craft-beer industry and an especially vital point in Sonoma, where brewers such as Cilurzo, Magee and Bear Republic’s Norgrove family have made an indelible mark with their flagship IPAs. you can’t go into a bar in the county without encountering at least one IPA on tap, and likely a few more.

“It’s getting more challenging and you certainly have to differentiate more,” said Bart Watson, chief economist with the Brewers association.

That’s what Steve Doty is doing with his one-man shop, Shady Oak Barrel House in Santa Rosa, which specializes in sour beers and those brewed with Brettanomyces yeast. Like the county’s other famous beverage, some of his beers can take up to two years to age. His brews, including Funkatronic, are available at Bottle Barn and the Rincon Valley Tap Room & Bottle Shop, both in Santa Rosa, although availability varies be- cause of Doty’s small production.

“There are very few people who are specializing in things,” Doty said. “That’s why I don’t think we are even close to crowded.”

As the demand for craft beer skyrockets across the country, a new brewery opens every 16 hours, Watson said. The local contribution is significant. A report by the Sonoma County economic Development Board found that craft brewing pumped $123 million into the local economy in 2012, creating almost 500 jobs and another 179 positions indirectly. Hotels and eateries that serve those who visit Beer Country, taxi services and gas stations, even convenience stores that sell aspirin to those who have overindulged, contribute to the economy, thanks to beer.

Kelly Jung said she was impressed that Vinnie Cilurzo came out and greeted customers in line.

Cilurzo said most of the well-known craft brewers have not allowed success to go to their heads. after all, they started as fans, then became home brewers, and still retain the enthusiasm they first had when they were cooking grains, malt and water in their kitchens.

“It’s how we did it. It’s how so many did it,” he said. “It’s about not forgetting your roots.”

Beer Country: Beer Pairing

Irish lox topped salmon over red potatoes, leek fondue, and ale butter, by Hopmonk Tavern executive chef Billy Reid, served with Hopmonk Dunkelweizen. (photos by Christopher Chung)

No one needs to tell Jeff Bull that cold beer is hot for creative food pairings. The Santa Rosa home brewer and self-admitted craft beer geek lists among his favorite sudsy combos a spicy, mocha porter with German chocolate cake.

He waxes poetic on his bullseyebrewco.com blog about the pleasures of partnering beer and cheese, beer and maple bacon Kettle chips, beer and ice cream, and beer and oysters. He also posts uncommon culinary hints from regional craft brewers (“Ever hear that Girl Scout cookies and beer go well together? Oh, HELL YES. Ninkasi Brewing Devil and Tagalongs”).

“Pairing beer with food is one of my favorite activities,” Bull said. “I love the diverse flavor profiles offered by both.”

Bull and his brethren are just the type of microbrew lovers helping fan the flames of an ever-increasing array of beer dinners in Sonoma. These days, local brewmasters hold court like the fanciest winemakers, sharing their skills as cicerones (beer sommeliers) to show others how an artful IPA can enhance spicy duck wings dunked in fried Maytag blue cheese, and how a soulful stout can be a sophisticated star alongside a burger adorned in truffles and foie gras and drenched in demi-glace.

cc0303_Beer_CheeseSoup.jpgHopMonk Tavern owner Dean Biersch knows well the charm of beer and fine food, often arranging one-night-only, fancy, suds-soaked meals at his pubs in Sebastopol and Sonoma. With 18 beers on tap and dozens of bottled microbrews, he likes to challenge his chefs for inspirations such as a Lagunitas Brewing Co. Petaluma Pils partnered with bitter apple and corn croquettes.

Part of the fascination, he said, comes from the often-layered flavors of artisanal beers, which can boast notes ranging from pear and lilac in Healdsburg’s Bear Republic Brewery Co. Cher Ami, to caramel and coffee in Sonoma’s Carneros Brewing Co. Negra IPA.

“The range and quality of American craft beer in 2015 is amazing,” Biersch said. “Most are hybrids based on tradition, but featuring unique yeasts and hop varietals. This has created new and open territory for chefs interested in beer. It’s the combination of unique pairings and flavors, the relaxed tavern or beer garden setting, shared tables and the personal stories from brewers, chefs and owners that make beer dinners so fun and informative.”

Beer Country: Those Big Bottles

Growlers sit on a shelf behind the bar at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. (photo by Christopher Chung)

In the 1800s, when a man wanted to enjoy a few beers outside his local tavern, he didn’t stock his cellar with bottled beer. Instead, he asked the barkeep to fill a growler with fresh draft beer to go. Growlers usually took the form of half-gallon galvanized buckets, delivered to patrons by “bucket boys” who carried the pails through the streets on notched poles. this custom was called “rushing the growler.”

No one knows for sure the origination of the term “growler,” but one popular theory is that the vessels were named for the sloshing sound the beer made inside the buckets during transport.

Whatever the reason behind the name, growlers are experiencing a revival in taprooms all over Sonoma. Not only do they allow beer lovers to bring home unbottled, limited-volume brews for drinking at home, the reusable glass jugs are eco-friendly, too.

Patrons pay a small fee for an empty growler — usually $6 to $8 — which they can bring back to the brewery for discounted refills. (Once emptied, a growler should be rinsed immediately with warm water. If it’s been left to sit for a couple days, warm water with just a touch of dish soap will do the trick.)

If a growler’s seal — typically a flip-top lid — is left intact, the beer will stay fresh in the refrigerator for a week or so. Once a growler has been opened, it’s best to finish off the beer in a day or two.

Nearly all Sonoma brewers offer growlers in their taprooms, including Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery, Lagunitas Brewing Co. and Petaluma Hills Brewing Co. in Petaluma; Fogbelt Brewing Co., Russian River Brewing Co. and Third Street Aleworks in Santa Rosa; Carneros Brewing Co. in Sonoma; Woodfour Brewing in Sebastopol; Bear Republic Brewing Co. in Healdsburg; and St. Florian’s Brewery in Windsor.

So why not grab a growler?

Beer Country: Brew Your Own Beer

For 36 years, The Beverage People co-owner Nancy Vineyard has seen the home-brewing industry rise and fall repeatedly, first in the mid-1990s and then in the early 2000s.

“It always goes up when the economy goes down,” she said. “People don’t have jobs, but they want to continue to have beer.”

The Santa Rosa retail and mail-order store offers classes in home brewing, as well as kits that provide all the key equipment and ingredients for beginners to get started. a standard kit runs about $100.

“That’s just the hardware,” she said. “But with your own water, and saved beer bottles, that will make a 5-gallon batch of beer with an ingredient kit, which costs between $35 and $55.”

The entry-level kit includes a book by Byron Burch, “Brewing Quality Beers,” which is required reading for anyone just starting out. The key components of the kit are the fermenter (a 6.8-gallon plastic bucket with a lid), a 5-gallon carboy for secondary fermentation, plastic fermentation lock, siphon hose, bottle brush, bottle filler, crown caps, capper, odor-free cleaner and no-rinse sanitizer.

Vineyard suggests starting out with a pale ale or IPA ingredient kit, because most people know how those beers are supposed to taste. Included are the malt ex- tract, hops and yeast.

Home brewers also need a large stockpot for cooking the ingredients (20- to 32-quart), Pyrex measuring cups and cases in which to store the bottles out of the light.

Relatively new on the scene is Beer Belly Brewing Supply in Windsor. Owner Christal Farias, a Healdsburg native, opened the shop in June 2014, after she and her friends found themselves unable to buy last-minute sup- plies on Sunday, their favorite day to brew together. So she opened her own store and began hosting Beer Camp, an evening of beer, food and a talk given by a professional brewer ($35-$45).

The next Beer Camp is May 19 at 6:30 p.m., with Fogbelt Brewing.

• Beer Belly Brewing supply, 371A Windsor River Road, Windsor 707-837-5750, beerbellybrewingsupply.com
• The Beverage people, 1845 Piner Road, Suite D, 707-544-5729, thebeveragepeople.com

Small Batch, Freshly Hatched

Entrants in the first Sonoma County Home Brewer’s Competition will show off their suds at a May 23 tasting at the Veterans Memorial Building in Petaluma, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. It’s too late to enter the competition, sponsored by the Petaluma Downtown Association, but attend the tasting and be inspired to brew a batch for the 2016 event.

The $25 ticket includes a logo glass and 20 tastings, plus opportunities to learn about home brewing, equipment and ingredients. There will be food trucks and music, too. Attendees vote on their favorite beers and the top 10 are judged by an expert panel. The ultimate winner will brew his or her recipe at 101 North Brewing Co. And Have It Distributed Locally.

• Veterans Memorial Building, 1094 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-780-2939, petalumadowntown.com

Beer Country: Need a Pliny Alternative?

(photo by Christopher Chung)

For aficionados, two beers put Sonoma on the map: Lagunitas Brewing’s ubiquitous flagship India Pale Ale (IPA) and Russian River Brewing’s Pliny the Younger, a triple IPA that’s available just two weeks a year. But as local craft-beer drinkers know, there’s a lot more to Sonoma brewing than these two superstars. Impress yourself and your friends with these other local beers that are nearly as good (or perhaps even better).

Pliny the Elder, Russian River Brewing
If you can’t make the trip or don’t want to wait in line for Pliny the Younger, the sixth-best beer in the world, according to Beer Advocate, the eighth-best brew isn’t a bad consolation prize. Pliny the Elder, a classic, hoppy double IPA, is one of the most coveted beers around, and it’s right in our backyard, Santa Rosa.

Blind Pig, Russian River
With as much hype as the Plinys get, Blind Pig, a less intense, well-balanced and flavorful IPA, tends to get overlooked. Many hop heads, including this one, prefer Blind Pig over the hoppier Plinys.

Saison, Henhouse Brewing
There aren’t many California breweries whose flagship beer is a saison, or farmhouse ale, but Petaluma’s HenHouse excels at the style. Its signature brew is a rich, golden color that’s light in body, with less of the tartness that puts some drinkers off of saisons. It’s a great first saison for people new to craft beer. HenHouse doesn’t bottle or have a taproom, but its beers are widely available on draft in the North Bay.

Death & Taxes, Moonlight Brewing
A mainstay of the Sonoma craft brew scene, Santa Rosa’s Brian Hunt produces this signature dark lager that has the flavor profile of a dark beer, but without the heaviness of a stout or porter.

Berliner Weisse, Woodfour Brewing
The selection changes often at this Sebastopol brewery, but this tart, low- alcohol wheat beer is a mainstay. At approximately 3 percent alcohol by volume, it’s a great midday pairing with lunch from the brewpub at The Barlow.

Old Adobe Stout, Petaluma Hills
This dry stout should please fans of Guinness, and it’s a great reason to visit Sonoma County’s most laid-back, cozy taproom.

Beer Country: Hot Kids on the Block

Fraser Ross pours a beer for the Friday crowd at Fogbelt Brewing Company. (Conner Jay)

Russian River, Bear Republic and Lagunitas may have put Sonoma craft brews on the map, but a new crop of up-and-comers is shaking up the local brewing scene with gutsy, adventurous offerings to quench just about any thirst.

Paul Hawley, left and Remy Martin of Fogbelt Brewing. (photo by Kent Porter)
Paul Hawley, left and Remy Martin of Fogbelt Brewing. (photo by Kent Porter)

Fogbelt Brewing Co.
THE CROSSOVER
It takes a lot of beer to make great wine, or so the saying goes, and no one knows that better than Paul Hawley and Remy Martin. Martin is the son of veteran Fetzer Vineyards winemaker Dennis Martin, and Hawley’s family owns Hawley Winery in Dry Creek Valley.
After brewing at home together for more than a decade, the friends opened the Fogbelt taproom in Santa Rosa in 2013.
Their beers, named for coast redwoods, are balanced and intriguing, from the crisp atlas Blonde to The Brotherhood, a slightly sour Belgian-style dubbel aged in Zinfandel barrels, to the Dyerville Giant, a red ale infused with bourbon-soaked oak chips.
• 1305 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-978-3400, fogbeltbrewing.com

Seth Wood, co-owner at Woodfour Brewing Company in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (photo by Crista Jeremiason)
Seth Wood, co-owner at Woodfour Brewing Company in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (photo by Crista Jeremiason)

Woodfour Brewing Co.
THE TERROIRISTE
Seth Wood began brewing while attending culinary school in New York, and became so enamored with the process that he moved to Fresno to study fermentation science and enology. In 2013, he opened the Woodfour brewery and restaurant in Sebastopol, with partner Olav Vier.
Wood brings his culinary and winemaking experience into the brewery, creating food-compatible beers that express a sense of place through hyper-local ingredients and native fermentations.
Woodfour’s beer menu includes a range of styles, from the funky-fruity Sour Farmhouse ale to Coffee and Pie, a rich, dark ale made with Taylor Maid Farms espresso and Sebastopol blackberries.
• 6780 Depot St., the Barlow Center, Sebastopol, 707-823-3144, woodfourbrewing.com

Brothers and co-owners Jake, left, and Joel Johnson at 101 North Brewing Company in Petaluma. Not shown, John Lilienthal. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
Brothers and co-owners Jake, left, and Joel Johnson at 101 North Brewing Company in Petaluma. Not shown, John Lilienthal. (photo by Beth Schlanker)

101 North Brewing Co.
THE INTERPRETER
Like most craft beermakers, Joel Johnson was a home brewer who dreamed of going pro. He landed his first brewing gig in 1998, at Healdsburg’s Bear Republic Brewing Co., and went on to become its head brewer.
After a few false starts, Johnson launched Petaluma’s 101 North Brewing Co. in 2012 with his brothers, Jake and Joey, along with lifelong friends John Brainin, John Lilienthal and Anthony Turner.
101 North’s brews are full-flavored and high in alcohol, yet expertly balanced. Its full-throttle interpretations of traditional beer styles include the amber-colored Heroine IPA, the malt-forward Stigmata American Red Rye and the unfiltered naughty Aud Imperial Stout. 101 North hopes to open a taproom sometime this summer.
• 707-778-8384, 101northbeer.com

Husband and wife owners Aron and Amy Levine at St. Florian's Brewery (photo by Conner Jay)
Husband and wife owners Aron and Amy Levine at St. Florian’s Brewery (photo by Conner Jay)

St. Florian’s Brewery
THE HERO
Rather than turning heads with experimental brews, St. Florian’s has attracted an enthusiastic following with delicious traditional-style beers. The Windsor brewery and taproom, named for the patron saint of firefighters, was launched in 2013 by Windsor fire captain and home brewer Aron Levin, with his wife, Amy.
California Common, St. Florian’s flagship beer, is a steam lager that’s clean and refreshing, with a malty body and caramel notes. The brewery also makes a flavorful brown ale and two excellent IPAs: Flashover American and Belgian Style Flashover.
Along with producing heroically good beer, the Levins donate 5 percent of the brewery’s profits to fire-related and community-based charities.
• 7704-A Bell Road, Windsor, 707-838-2739, stfloriansbrewery.com

Steve Doty at Shady Oak Barrel House. (photo by Christopher Chung)
Steve Doty at Shady Oak Barrel House. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Shady Oak Barrel House
THE OUTLIER
If you’re looking for a West Coast-style IPA or British Porter, Shady Oak Barrel House is not for you.
Steve Doty, a former winery lab technician who launched Shady Oak in 2014, has a love of brewing on the fringe and a deep fascination with Brettanomyces, a wild yeast that brings a magical sort of funk to beer.
Shady Oak’s Bokonon farmhouse ale is a dry, tart celebration of “Brett.” Most of the Santa Rosa brewery’s offerings are similarly sour, barrel-aged and encouraged to undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle for added complexity.
• 707-595-8958, shadyoakbarrelhouse.com (not open to the public)

Beer County: Beer Fanatic

Bartender Nate Hanes serves up the best beers the Fenn brothers can find at Beer Craft in Rohnert Park. (Photo by John Burgess)

Every single day, rain or shine, J.T. Fenn finds a new beer he’s absolutely in love with. Some, of course, become more lasting relationships. Others are passing dalliances, but each gets a pin-up shot on his Facebook page nonetheless.

In Sonoma, hops don’t necessarily take a back seat to grapes. Clubby gathering spots like Fenn’s BeerCraft in Rohnert Park and Rincon Valley Tap Room & Bottle Shop in Santa Rosa are beer meccas, stores that stock a broad range of craft beers. Their taprooms are places to geek out about artisanal hops, sour ales and the latest micro- micro-brewery, and coveted brews are snapped up faster than you can say, “Pour me another.”

Fenn recently scored a few bottles of Lagunitas Brewing Co. High Westified Imperial Coffee Stout. Made with local coffee and aged in whiskey barrels, it’s much coveted. ”Limited, hurry!” Fenn posted on his Facebook page, creating some additional urgency. With more than 11,000 social media fans, Fenn’s page is an immediate link to current finds, the store’s 14 taps and current beer community riffs.

In Santa Rosa, Michael Scalet, co-owner of Rincon Valley Tap Room & Bottle Shop, susses out the latest and greatest craft brews from far and wide for his Wednesday Night Flights, with five different brews served each week. Throughout the week (the taproom is closed on Mondays) there’s live music, trivia and a rotating lineup of more than a dozen taps, ranging from stouts to saisons. Scalet also offers small-batch wines at the shop.

BeerCraft and Rincon Valley Tap Room & Bottle Shop both have monthly memberships that include hard-to-find brews and limited allocations. Membership does have its privileges.

 

Beer Country: Sticky Fingers

(Sonoma County Museum)

These resinous flowers that give beer its bite were planted along the Russian River, on land now largely devoted to Chardonnay and pinot noir. Until it collapsed in the early 1950s, the hop industry had a century-long run, earning Sonoma the title “Hop Capital of America.”

“In the summers, before I was 12, I picked hops,” recalled Joe Rochioli Jr., 81, owner of Rochioli Vineyards on Westside Road near Healdsburg. “I hated it. Picking hops is the most tedious thing there is. You pick every little berry off and try not to get leaves in it. My mother wanted us to pick 100 pounds a day.”

The vines were trained on 10-foot-high poles, and later on trellis wires between the poles. When the hop buds (also called berries) were ripe, in late August or early September, the cluster-laden vines were cut from the poles and the flowers plucked from the vines. It was itchy, sticky work, as the resin from the hops stuck like glue to the hands, arms, face and clothing.

(photo by John Burgess)
(photo by John Burgess)

The fresh hops were dried in kilns, pressed and bagged for shipment to breweries across the country. During Prohibition, growers found a lucrative market in Europe, where crop failures had brewers begging for the bitter buds. Hop kilns dotted the Russian River Valley landscape, none more prominently than the Walters Ranch hop kiln, built in 1905 and now home to Hop Kiln Winery.

One purchaser of Sonoma hops was Grace Brothers Brewing, founded in 1897 by Frank and Joseph Grace. They acquired the Metzger brewery, near what is now Railroad Square in Santa Rosa, and after a fire, rebuilt the brewery. It survived through Prohibition, with several closings and reopenings, shuttering for good in 1966. At the peak of production in the 1930s, according to Santa Rosa historian Gaye LeBaron, Grace made one of the top three beers in California, along with Acme in San Francisco and Buffalo Brewing Co. in Sacramento. Today the Hyatt Vineyard Creek Hotel occupies the former Grace Brothers site.

The Sonoma hop market bottomed out in the mid-1950s, attributed to the fading American taste for bitter beers, diseased vines, less expensive mechanized farming in Sacramento, Oregon and Washington state, a booming apple and prune business, and the post-Prohibition resurrection of grape growing.

Still, a few hop plots remain, including Moonlight Brewing owner Brian Hunt’s quarter- acre patch in Fulton, and the Sonoma County Historical Society’s planting next to Hopkins River Ranch in Healdsburg. The hop industry has faded in Sonoma, yet the region’s brewing future appears to be limitless.

Beer Country: Richard Norgrove Jr., Bear Republic Brewing Co.

Richard Norgrove Jr., of Bear Republic Brewing. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Of all the Sonoma brewers, no one can stake a claim to “Renaissance man” quite like Richard Norgrove Jr. at the Bear Republic Brewing Co.

His resumé: U.S. Army veteran, firefighter, race car driver, bike builder, graphic designer (creator of all the Bear labels), Healdsburg Parks and Recreation commissioner, Little League coach and, in his free time, brewmaster.

“Today they might diagnose a kid like that as having ADHD, but back then they just called you ‘hyperactive,’ ” he said.

“I guess if I wasn’t doing all this, I’d go crazy. I just have to be going 110 mph.”

Back in 1995, when he and his father, CEO Richard Norgrove Sr., founded Bear Republic Brewing and Restaurant with $1 million, “Ricardo” had already paid his dues as an amateur home brewer and builder of custom home-brew kits for sale at The Beverage People in Santa Rosa. He used his welding experience with Salsa Cycles to construct the brewery. He had also taken classes in the brewing program at Seibel Institute of Technology in Chicago and apprenticed for free with Brandon Moylan at Moylan’s Brewing in Marin.

Norgrove, 46, still laughs at how he stumbled onto the Bear’s flagship Racer 5 India Pale ale), which today accounts for more than 80 percent of sales.

“It came out of a mistake,” he said. In 1998, when he was the solo brewer and working on a batch of the house pale ale, he accidentally threw in the hops for Red Rocket IPA. “All of a sudden you’ve got something that’s crazily unbalanced. But I made a rule with myself years ago that I would call it what it is. So we put it out to the public as Springtime Strong ale and about five versions later, it became Racer 5.”

Bear Republic would eventually expand with distribution in 35 states. But over the past four years, the company has scaled back to 22 states, producing around 70,000 barrels annually. Now, with 14 brewers underneath him, Ricardo is more interested in the motto, “Let’s be stronger in our backyard.”

Outgrowing the brewpub in Healdsburg six years ago, the Norgroves opened an additional production facility in Cloverdale.

“We’re not the little fish anymore and we’re not the big fish. We’re in the middle, so we’re getting eaten from both sides,” Norgrove Jr. said. “The little guys are eating at us and the big guys are chomping on us. So my long-term goal has always been to be that brewery that when somebody thinks of Sonoma County long term, they think of that family brewery as Bear Republic.”