Dine Out To Help Food for Thought’s HIV/AIDS Outreach

Dining out for life 2015

Despite the rain and gloom, its a perfect night to eat lunch or dinner during today’s DINING OUT FOR LIFE, Thursday Dec. 3, 2015. This annual event benefits Food for Thought’s life-sustaining programs for individuals with HIV/AIDS in Sonoma County. All you have to do is eat lunch or dinner at a participating restaurant, and between 25 and 50% of your bill will be donated to the local food bank. More thank 75 local restaurants are participating, so it won’t be hard to choose. Find more details about the event and a full list of restaurants at diningoutforlife.com/sonomacounty.

Here is a complete list of restaurants…

Bodega Bay
Bay View Restaurant
Bluewater Bistro

Forestville
Backyard
Canneti Roadhouse
Corks Restaurant & Farm
Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant
Sunshine Coffee Roasters
Twist Eatery

Graton
Underwood Bar & Bistro
Willow Wood Market Café

Guerneville
Betty Spaghetti
boon eat + drink
Pat’s/Dick Blomster’s
Seaside Metal Oyster Bar

Healdsburg
Barndiva
Campo Fina
Dry Creek Kitchen
Mateo’s Cocina Latina
Ralph’s Martini House
Spoonbar!

Petaluma
Café Zazzle
Central Market Restaurant
Cucina Paradiso Restaurant
Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery
Old Chicago Pizza
Rafy’s Pizzeria
Risibisi Italian Restaurant
Wild Goat Bistro
Wishbone

Rohnert Park
Hana Japanese Restaurant

Santa Rosa
Bistro 29
Bruno’s on Fourth
Carmen’s Burger Bar
Dierk’s Midtown Café
Dierk’s Parkside Café
Gaia’s Garden
Ike’s Place
Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whiskey Bar
JoJo Restaurant & Sushi Bar
Khoom Lanna Thai Cuisine
Mac’s Deli & Café
Mombo’s Pizza
Monti’s Rotisserie & Bar
Pamposh Restaurant
Pizza Gourmet
Rosso Rosticceria + Eventi
Russian River Brewing Company
Sazon Peruvian Cuisine
SOCO Coffee
Sweet T’s Restaurant and Bar
The Pullman Kitchen
The Spinster Sisters
Yeti Restaurant

Sebastopol
BBQ Smokehouse & Catering
Eight Cuisine & Wine
Fork Roadhouse and Catering
Formosa Bistro
French Garden Restaurant and Bistro
Gypsy Café
Hole in the Wall Restaurant
HopMonk Tavern
K & L Bistro
Martha’s Old Mexico Restaurante
Mombo’s Pizza
Papas and Pollo
Peter Lowell’s Restaurant
Sonoma Wine Shop & La Bodega Kitchen
Sub Zero Ice Cream and Yogurt
Sushi Tozai
Taylor Maid Coffee
Vignette Pizzeria

Sonoma
HopMonk Tavern
Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante
Maya Restaurant
Saddles Steak House
The Plaza Bistro

Valley Ford
Rocker Oysterfeller’s

Windsor
Chinois Asian Bistro
Umé Japanese Bistro

Cheaper Options for Sonoma County Wines

The holiday season is here and it’s time to bring out the big guns, to splurge on worthy bottles for both gifting and to help soothe us on the chilly nights of approaching winter, with hearty fare on the table. With football on the tube, Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, Christmas and more to celebrate, this is no time for restraint.

_Like_Rocky_optIf You Like…

Carol Shelton 2012 Rocky Reserve Florence Vineyard Rockpile Zinfandel ($35)

The maven of Zinfandel excels with this vineyard-designated wine, which shows why the Rockpile region is such a special place for the grape. Powerfully brooding in its aromas, the wine is smooth on the palate, offering a mix of red and black berries and leather. With excellent depth and weight, it strikes a balance between ripeness and restraint.

_Like_Decoy_optYou may also like…

Decoy 2013 Sonoma County Zinfandel ($25)

This is a highly likable Zin made in large enough quantities to be relatively easy to find. It has an explosive mouthful of juicy blackberry that’s dark, dense and full-bodied. Savory accents of smoke, leather and black pepper make for a hearty companion for spare ribs and spicy chicken wings.

 

 

_Like_Renteria_optIf You Like…

Renteria 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($40)

As wintry as damp forest floor and with the fresh-cut pine smell of Christmas, this brooding Pinot is decidedly crisp in taste, exhibiting chewy cranberry and pomegranate with the expected cherry. Great acidity keeps it fresh and focused, with spicy cinnamon and clove notes. Rack of lamb, anyone?
_like_Picayune_optYou may also like…

Picayune 2013 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($29)

Dark and full-bodied, this savory wine offers a ton of value for the price. It has a mix of wild berries, herbs, woody notes and leathery texture. A fragrant aroma of rose petal dominates at the beginning, and a twist of black tea and cinnamon appear at the end.
If You Like…_like_meadowcroft_opt

Meadowcroft 2014 Louvau Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Viognier ($30)

Meadowcroft does a good job of exhibiting Viognier’s potential in Dry Creek Valley, coaxing out floral aromas and flavors of Golden Delicious apple, pear, lemon and honey, which are fresh and viscous. Not a lot of this compelling wine was produced, but it’s worth the search.

_Like_Kunde_optYou may also like…

Kunde 2013 Destination Series Sonoma Valley Viognier ($22)

High-toned and somewhat briny, like the smell of the sea, this wine begins with lemon, pear and orange peel, then turns more sensuous with a salted caramel note and luxurious creaminess, remaining fresh and vibrant.

 

 

_like_Gundlach_optIf You Like…

Gundlach Bundschu 2012 Sonoma Valley Vintage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($100)

A wine the family has made since 1981, Vintage Reserve represents the best Cab lots of the year, the ones deemed most elegant and expressive. The 2012 combines black olive and herbal character with tightly woven tannins and subtle oak, a nod to the Old World with New World juiciness. Labeled with an original piece of art each year, it’s a generous gift for any lover of wine and design.

_like_forefathers_optYou may also like…

Forefathers 2012 Lone Tree Vineyard Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)

Winemaker Nick Goldschmidt loves this dry-farmed vineyard north of Geyserville and does well by it here, reining in its tiny, concentrated berries into an earthy, chocolaty wine that’s juicy, approachable and dusted in black cherry. The finish is all about smoke and leather. Give it with a set of cigars.

Sonoma County Dive Bars: 16 You Can’t Miss

This is pretty much the only scene we can show you without making this an "M"-rated post at the Kozy Kar Bar in Santa Rosa.
This is pretty much the only scene we can show you without making this an “M”-rated post at the Kozy Kar Bar in Santa Rosa.

roundrobin
Sonoma County dive bars are the places we go for a solid gin and tonic served up without the distraction of atmosphere. They’re no-frills, no-judgement spots to forget your troubles, drink well tequila and maybe get a bit of advice from a guy with two teeth and smile a mile wide. He seems pretty happy, after all.

What we know from our years of of tippling at spots without cover charges, rap on the jukebox or bartenders willing to make any drink with more than two ingredients? Anyone’s welcome as long as you don’t act like an ass.

With that said, here are some of our favorite Sonoma County dive bars at varying ends of the pool — some you gotta dive a lot deeper to find, others are on the beaten path.

Gary's at the Belvedere is one of a trio of bars at College and Mendocino Aves in Santa Rosa jokingly called The Tipsy Triangle. Photo Pio Valenzuela.
Gary’s at the Belvedere is one of a trio of bars at College and Mendocino Aves in Santa Rosa jokingly called The Tipsy Triangle. Photo Pio Valenzuela.

Santa Rosa

The Tipsy Triangle: Gary’s At the Belvedere (727 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa), 440 Club (435 College Ave.,Santa Rosa), Round Robin (616 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa)
If you think about the intersection of College and Mendocino Aves., you may notice that three of the four corners (okay, it’s an obtuse triangle) have bars. Hence the name Tipsy Triangle, referring to Gary’s at the Belvedere, the 440 Club and The Round Robin. These old-timers pre-date most of the people going to them by at least 20 years. Sometimes much more. There are lots of cool old touches in each, if you look closely (fire pit, secret upstairs rooms), but not too closely. Nearby Joey’s Pizza and Adels are the after-party fuel-up spots.

The Zoo Bar in Santa Rosa. Photo Pio Valenzuela.
The Zoo Bar in Santa Rosa. Don’t be fooled by the cute cartoon elephant. Photo Pio Valenzuela.

The Zoo: A friend once told me this dive bar was once a Hell’s Angels hangout, naturally proving its dive bar cred. You may or may not see any motorcycle gang members hanging around, but expect a no-nonsense crowd at this notoriously colorful dive. 527 Barham Ave., Santa Rosa.

The Wagon Wheel Saloon was used for interior bar scenes of the movie Phenomenon in 1996. Photo Pio Valenzuela.
The Wagon Wheel Saloon was used for interior bar scenes of the movie Phenomenon in 1996. Photo Pio Valenzuela.

The Wagon Wheel: Years ago, they offered one of the best deals in town that you never wanted to accept — a “Get Out of Jail” coupon. If you were booked at the nearby Sonoma County Jail in Santa Rosa, upon your release you could walk three blocks to the Wagon Wheel and flash your papers for a free drink. Unfortunately these days, that’s the stuff of legend, since the new owners have stopped the practice, but it’s still the best bar to hit when you’re sprung from the joint. 3320 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa (John Beck, Sonoma Magazine)

This is pretty much the only scene we can show you without making this an "M"-rated post at the Kozy Kar Bar in Santa Rosa.
This is pretty much the only scene we can show you without making this an “M”-rated post at the Kozy Kar Bar in Santa Rosa.

Kozy Kar Bar: 70s and early 80s-themed nightclub, complete with waterbeds, shag rugs, bad lighting, pinball machines, 8-tracks and Penthouse pinup “wallpaper” from that freewheeling, all-natural era. Tastelessly divey. 404 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa.

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Kozy Kar Bar van, where you can sit and watch adult movies and sip on a cocktail in Santa Rosa.


Fiorino’s Lounge:
One of the few spots this deep into Rincon Valley, and you’ll still have to hunt it down inside the Montecito shopping center. The younger crowd has discovered its old-school charm, but you’ll still find some decent grub and cocktails inside. 585 Montecito Ctr., Santa Rosa.

Cotati/Penngrove

The Cotati Crawl is the Main Street of Sonoma State University drinking life, so expect lots of 20-somethings when schools in session.

Eight Ball: Probably the best neon sign of any dive bar in Sonoma County. Heavy sports, bar atmosphere, but solid drinking. 8 Charles St., Cotati.

Friar Tuck’s Pub: These folks love to party, making it one of the most lively, spirited, friendly spots in town. Plus, you can get deep fried raviolis at 1:30a.m. Of course its THE place to be for St. Paddy’s. 8201 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati.

Spanky’s:
I kid you not, I went to a Roller Derby team bake sale at this Cotati dive a few years ago. That kind of sums up the vibe. Live music, cold beer, good times. 8201 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati.

Petaluma

The Buckhorn Bar in Petaluma. Photo by Pio Valenzuela.
The Buckhorn Bar in Petaluma. Photo by Pio Valenzuela.

The Buckhorn: Deer and elk heads hang from the wall behind the bar of this 1938 tavern which has become a top destination for Petaluma’s karaoke scene. Who knew? and located at 615 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma.

Ernie’s Tin Barn: Lots of Sonoma folks drop in on their way to or from Petaluma and points south. Once a kind of rough can-of-beer joint, it has been yupped up a bit with outdoor seating, flowers, new tin siding since a truck plowed through the west end of the building, and excellent barbecue. Pints $1.75 on up. -Kathleen Hill, Sonoma Index Tribune

Healdsburg

John and Zeke’s: After closing the original location on the Healdsburg plaza, owners took over another downtown dive just blocks away. Still where the locals go to escape the tourists. 420 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg.

Bodega

Casino Bar and Grill: I really hate telling people about this place, because its one of the last dive bars that hasn’t been “discovered” by 20-year-olds or tourists. Fortunately, the regulars will stare you down pretty good if they think you don’t belong, especially during the week. What’s amazing is that one of Sonoma County’s best chefs serves up wildly creative dinners at this outpost for very local-friendly prices. 17000 Bodega Hwy., Bodega.

Sonoma

The Blue Moon Saloon in Sonoma. Photo Pio Valenzuela.
The Blue Moon Saloon in Sonoma. Photo Pio Valenzuela.

Blue Moon Saloon: A former “card room” and the scene of fights and general rabble-rousing, Blue Moon Saloon now has a fun paint job and a whole set of regulars, some of whom show up early in the morning. Sundays bring Sunday Blues music featuring loads of local musicians such as Stuart Sperring, Nick Cordellos, Sean Carscadden, Phil Herrschaft, Zakk Murphy, Ryan Tatarian, and Steen Berrig. Good drinks, good prices. In fact that is true of all of our “dives.” -KH

Steiner’s Tavern: Several years ago Steiners moved up the street from where Harvest Moon Café is now located to a bank building, and thankfully took its original swinging doors along. Steiners is the ultimate local dive bar that attracts a crowd that has been going there every day for decades – plus young almost hipsters, wedding parties, motorcyclists and general noise makers. Lots of deep fried foods, burgers, and even a good shrimp Louie salad on the menu all the time. -KH

Cloverdale

Harold's Dante Hotel courtesy of Yelp.com.
Harold’s Dante Hotel courtesy of Yelp.com.

Harold’s Dante Hotel & Bar on the corner of Railroad Avenue and S. East Street is something of a Cloverdale institution. Constructed of local redwood in 1888, it was originally known as the New Toscano. Although no longer used for lodging, it is still one of Cloverdale’s oldest businesses and holds the distinction of being the town’s longest running hotel. Today, it is operated strictly as a bar by Cort Amelung and his wife, Marilynn. In addition to attracting a lot of locals, the Dante is on the “must see” list for out of town visitors. It is also the one place where those who’ve grown up here want to go when they come home to visit. After 125 years, the Dante still looks pretty much the same, and according to the Amelungs, there are no plans to make any changes any time soon. – Mary Joe Winter, Cloverdale Towns Correspondent.

A Kenwood House Worth the Wait

Photography by Chris Hardy

Thanksgiving at the Romano home on Rhone Ranch is a weeklong affair that’s all about family, food and gratitude. The 6,300-square-foot home, which is part Cape Cod and part American Craftsman, is nestled on a 5-acre parcel in Kenwood, in the heart of the Valley of the Moon. For Ellen and Marc Romano and their three children, it’s a sanctuary and the hub for family gatherings.

On Thanksgiving Day, a long table, which extends the length of their dining room and great room, will seat up to 40 family members. Grapevines cut from the vineyard will run down the middle of the table set with an eclectic mix of linens, dishes and silverware.

In 2004, while living a fast-track life in San Mateo, the couple decided to look for a second home. He was working as a general contractor, specializing in carpentry and woodwork, and she was consulting in the high-tech industry. Their young children spent many hours each day with a nanny. “Our lifestyle felt fast-paced and, at times, out of control,” Ellen recalled.

Their search for a getaway home led them to Sonoma Valley. Along the way, they considered moving to the country full time. “We felt unsettled and stressed, and we didn’t want to raise our kids in the environment in which we were living,” Ellen said. Nevertheless, they struggled with the decision of uprooting their children and moving away from their own parents, sisters and brothers, and 24 nieces and nephews.

One August day that same year, the Romanos’ real estate agent showed them a ranch-style house on Lawndale Road in Kenwood that included 3 acres of vineyards and sweeping views of Hood Mountain and Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. Built in the 1970s, it had three bedrooms and two and a half bathrooms. The Romanos didn’t know anything about rural living or growing grapes, but the feeling of the place struck a chord. “We sat on the back deck with our realtor for 45 minutes,” Ellen said. “We knew it was perfect for us.”

The house was in escrow, but within a week the deal fell through and the Romanos bought the property. Still ambivalent about leaving family, they moved into the house the weekend before the new school year.

Marc set to work redesigning their new home, drawing the plans by hand — an almost lost art but key to his creative process.

“I’m building it in my head as I draw it,” said Marc, who relocated his Romano Construction & Design business to Kenwood, where he works on residential and commercial buildings. The project would entail an extensive remodel. He left the studs and designed the house around the original fireplace and a 40-year-old willow tree that graces the property.

In the meantime, the Romanos began building a house in Glen Ellen in 2005. Their plan was to live there while working on their dream home, and sell that one when they were ready to relocate to Lawndale Road. In 2007, they began construction on Lawndale. But when the recession hit in 2008, they shut down the project. “Not knowing what the future would hold, we weren’t going to power ahead with it,” Ellen said.

Marc made the house weather-tight by sealing the roof and boarding up some of the windows and doors. Over the next few years, the Romanos kept their dream alive by hanging trim and laying floors. “People would stop and ask what we were doing with the building and if it was for sale,” Ellen recalled. “That was a hard time.”

Three years later, they resumed construction, doing much of the work themselves. Marc made cedar shingles by hand and hung the clapboard siding. Ellen, who works as a design consultant for their business, handled the interior, choosing colors, tile, granite and light fixtures. They completed construction in 2013.

Today, their home is Wine Country casual, featuring custom woodwork and cabinetry designed and built by Marc. The interior includes large baseboards, an abundance of trim, double-hung windows and inlaid floors. The heart and soul of the couple’s work is evident in the details of every room. “Each room has its own personality and its own feel,” Ellen said.

She loves color and is bold in choosing deep tones. “We’ve all learned to go along with her color scheme,” Marc said with a smile. “It always turns out.”

The great room and dining room are painted terra cotta. A bronzed chandelier and wall sconces are rustic and elegant. Oil portraits of street scenes, painted by Ellen, hang on the dining room walls.

Hickory pine floors run through much of the house. The great room has an 18-foot ceiling with wood beams and a large cast-stone fireplace with a Venetian-plaster hood. A small all-season sun room off the great room offers natural light and is painted olive green. Arched beams have a dramatic impact in the dining room, which leads to a butler’s pantry. A spacious kitchen includes a 13-foot island and custom-built cabinets Mark made out of maple and painted a linen color.

Ellen designed wood features in the trim of a weathered-metal hood above a Thermador professional range and double ovens. Custom shelving in the kitchen holds family treasures — a silver tray from Ellen’s grandmother, a cookbook from her mother and a painting of a single pear by her older daughter, Zuzu, who is a junior at UC Davis.

A temperature-controlled wine room near the kitchen has a stone wall and parquet floor, which Marc made from 1-inch squares of walnut, Brazilian cherry, Honduran mahogany and other woods. It was a project he found cathartic in the midst of the recession, he said.

The laundry room is painted periwinkle and includes white beadboard paneling, custom cabinets and a stunning view of the vineyard. A hall bath features a wood vanity built by Marc, waxed and painted with an antique finish by Ellen. Contemporary sconces flank the mirror over the sink, a single round crystal hanging in each. The floor is made of a natural stone tile.

There are now four bedrooms and five bathrooms. The master suite includes a sitting area and oversized bathroom, as well as views of the vines. Zuzu, 21, and her sister, Avery, 16, who attends Cardinal Newman High, have separate bedrooms, connected by a shared bathroom and walk-in closet. Avery has her grandparents’ first bedroom set, 1920s Ethan Allen, which Ellen painted robin’s-egg blue.

Jake, 22, has a room with a private bathroom with a rain-forest shower head and Bellingham tile from Washington state, where he will graduate from Western Washington University in December.

The focal point of the backyard is a large pool with stone features and two waterfalls, and an outdoor kitchen. A guest house is a miniature version of the main house, and a stone path leads to the garden, planted with kale, herbs and tomatoes. A 2,600-square-foot barn is under construction.

Since the Romanos moved to Kenwood, life has slowed to a reasonable pace and they’re embracing the Sonoma lifestyle. They recently christened their property Rhone Ranch, after the Marsanne and Roussanne grapes they grow and sell to local wineries. When they’re not working, Marc volunteers for the Kenwood Fire Protection District and Ellen can be found puttering in the garden or painting portraits. Five rescue dogs, affectionately referred to as the “wolf pack,” roam the grounds.

The kids will be home for the holidays, joined by extended family and friends. Thirty-five guests are expected for Thanksgiving dinner, which begins at 4 p.m. and typically includes roasted turkey, grilled ham, sweet potatoes, string beans and a Cuban dish of black beans and rice that Ellen recreated after watching Marc’s grandmother, Nieves, prepare it. After dinner, everyone will gather around the outdoor stone fire pit for wine and s’mores.

The Romanos, who celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary in December, said they feel blessed these days. Do they have the house of their dreams? “It has turned into the family hub,” Marc said. “When you fill it with memories, it’s more than we dreamed of.”

Top 100 Wines: Cabernet Sauvignon and Blends

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Amapola Creek
2010 Amapola Creek Estate Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$70
From legendary winemaker Richard Arrowood’s own certified-organic vines, this wine captures mountain Cabernet at its best, with tightly wound structure and a core of rich cassis, dark chocolate and kirsch flavors. It’s had enough time in bottle to begin to unfold, with suppleness and a long, sophisticated finish. (VB)

Carol Shelton Wines
2012 King Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Cabernet Sauvignon
$50
Cabernet is rare from the Sonoma Coast, yet Zin master Carol Shelton coaxed a great wine from this cool-climate site. It’s savory and woodsy, with supple tannins and warm plum and dark cherry flavors. Distinctive and delicious. (LM)

Chateau St. Jean
2012 Cinq Cepages Sonoma Valley
$80
The Kenwood winery’s flagship bottling, it gets its name from the five (“cinq”) Bordeaux grape varieties in the blend (Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot). The 2012 is supple and smooth, with cedar, pencil shavings and savory oak aromas.
Cabernet Sauvignon’s tannic structure and dark fruit meld with high-toned red fruit of Merlot. Cellar through 2022. (VB)

Estate 1856
2012 Tzabaco Rancho Vineyard Duvall’s Prospect Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$38
This massive, tannic wine scored 97 points at the North Coast Wine Challenge. It has a smoky campfire aroma and ripe dark plum and black cherry fruit, with substantial tannins that plead for service with rare meat. Cellaring for a few years will reward the patient with a smoother, more seamless experience. (LM)

Ferrari-Carano
2012 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$34
Polished and poised, it sports vanillin oak, vibrant dark cherry and wild berry fruit, supple tannins and a long, succulent finish. Anise, pencil lead and cedar notes add interest. (LM)

Forefathers
2012 Lone Tree Vineyard Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$55
From the dry-farmed Lone Tree Vineyard north of Geyserville, it has a gorgeous floral aroma and is a mouthful of perfectly ripe, energetic dark
cherry fruit. It’s very supple and polished, with firm yet not drying tannins. It’s a lovely drink now yet should improve with eight to 10 years of bottle age. Made by Nick Goldschmidt. (LM)

Francis Ford Coppola Winery
2012 Archimedes  Alexander Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon
$75
Pleasant forest floor, sandalwood, anise and blackberry aromas are repeated on the palate, joining bright berry fruit, juicy acidity and a very subtle hint of sweetness. It’s a vibrant style that will please any crowd. (LM)

Jordan Vineyard & Winery
2012 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$53
Always one of the most Bordeaux-like of Sonoma Cabs, the 2012 is drinkable now yet has a track record for aging gracefully for 20 years or more. Forest floor, loam, bright cherry and cassis character ride a wave of nervy acidity, backed by solid tannic structure. Napa quality at a Sonoma price. (LM)

Kendall-Jackson
2012 Grand Reserve Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
$28
The inviting forest floor, cedar, cassis and vanillin oak aromas lead to a fresh, brisk mouthful of beautifully balanced red and dark plum fruit. It favors complexity and refinement over ripeness and bombast — this is a wine you want to drink with steak and lamb, and not as a cocktail. (LM)

Lambert Bridge
2012 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
$80
It’s pricey, and worth it, with inviting aromas and generous flavors of cherry, cassis and dark plum. Remarkably lively for a wine of its density
and weight, it gains complexity from subtle notes of cedar, black olive and dark chocolate. Seamless, suave and elegant, it closes with a
lingering finish. (LM)

Laurel Glen Vineyard
2011 Sonoma Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
$65
Bettina Sichel heads the team that purchased Laurel Glen from founder Patrick Campbell in March 2011. This wine reflects Campbell’s 30-year viticultural efforts and the work of Sichel’s winemaker, Randall Watkins, who took the grapes from bud to bottle. From a difficult vintage comes a wine with pretty floral aromas, juicy dark cherry and cassis flavors, and a savory, mountain-mineral character. (LM)

Rodney Strong Vineyards
Symmetry 2012 Sonoma County Meritage Red Wine
$55
The earthy, loamy nose has significant toasty oak. There’s great freshness on the palate, with plump dark plum, black olive and briary black raspberry, supple tannins and vanillin oak. Comprised of 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, with lesser amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. (LM)[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Healdsburg Artist Creates Modern Decor with Candles

Photography by Chris Hardy

To Dundee Butcher, candlelight is as crucial to a party as great wine and food, especially during the holiday season.

Photography by Chris Hardy
Toy Trucks can be used as center pieces. (Photography by Chris Hardy)

“Candles bring light and softness to a table,” said the Texas native who now calls Healdsburg home. “Just like a room without flowers feels dead, I feel the same way about candles. It’s warm. It’s like when a fireplace is lit. It changes the room.”

And she much prefers dining by candlelight to an overhead light. With the latter, she said, “You feel like you’re in an operating room.”

Butcher is a big fan of beeswax candles, using them in her designs at her Russian River Flower School in Healdsburg. There, she offers a variety of floristry workshops and classes, including custom classes for small groups and team-building events. She also sells floral and candle arrangements.

“Beeswax candles are environmentally friendly, have a pleasant subtle fragrance, and I love the cream and gold color,” she said.

Candles069_opt
Table Wreaths arrangement.

The mild scent of beeswax also makes the candles ideal for the dinner table: The aromas of the food have no competition.

When scent isn’t a concern, Butcher is partial to candles made by the diptyque company in France. “They’re my favorite if you want a scented candle,” she said, with baies (berries), figuier (fig tree), tubéreuse (tuberose) and gardenia scents among her top picks.

Butcher began combining flowers and candles after training in floristry in England. Shortly after moving there in 2007 with her English husband, Ian, Butcher found herself apprenticing at top flower shops in London (she was once fired for leaving thorns on a rose stem). She was fortunate enough to work with renowned florist Jane Packer for five years.

“She really was an icon,” Butcher said of Packer, who designed the flowers for Sarah Ferguson’s wedding to Prince Andrew. “She was a pioneer in monochromatic floristry. She believed that a color palette of similar hues was most elegant and would only use whites with whites or with creams and greens. She loved foliage and incorporated a wide variety of most unusual greens in her designs.”

Entering the lofty and competitive floral business in London had its challenges for Butcher.

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Stacked glass squares create a modern candle look.

“I was in my 40s. I was an American with kids. I was enthusiastic,” she said with a laugh, recalling the time one British boss told her to “stop with the high fives and the hugging.” “They thought I was too excited,” she said.

Undaunted, Butcher managed to learn the business as she prepared arrangements for top-notch hotels and even Kensington Palace.

Drawn by what she describes as the natural beauty and sunshine of Northern California, Butcher moved her family from London to Sonoma two years ago, opening the Russian River Flower School shortly after her arrival. She creates custom floral designs for weddings, dinner parties and other events, and candles are included in her repertoire.

“My floristry background was so formal; we did arrangements for the queen,” she said. “Then you come to Healdsburg and you want more natural.”

Adjusting the two extremes has helped Butcher create a signature look.

“My style is a really good blend of my background,” she explained. “It’s almost like learning classical ballet before you learn jazz. My style is clean, elegant and fun. I’m always looking for an opportunity to use the weird and wonderful ‘ingredients’ that we have on our doorstep. Whether teaching a class or designing for an event, I find it most exciting to combine a variety of flowers, branches and pods in all stages of their life cycle.”

After years spent mastering London’s formal floristry designs, Dundee Butcher makes her home in Healdsburg, where she has found fresh inspiration in Wine Country’s natural beauty. Now, she says, “My style is clean, elegant and fun.”
After years spent mastering London’s formal floristry designs, Dundee Butcher makes her home in Healdsburg, where she has found fresh inspiration in Wine Country’s natural beauty. Now, she says, “My style is clean, elegant and fun.”

For example, she recently created a large “sunbrella” from piles of dried sunflowers and a 12-foot wedding arch filled with willow branches.

“My goal is always to produce something beautiful, introduce an unpredictable element, and keep it fun,” Butcher said.

She has come to embrace the botanicals that are ubiquitous in Sonoma, from the aforementioned dried sunflowers and curly willow to manzanita branches, eucalyptus pods and oak galls. Using these accessible items in her arrangements now comes naturally to Butcher.

“It’s all about wandering with your eyes open,” she said.

With the holidays in mind, Butcher suggested some simple yet stunning candle arrangements that anyone can do at home, and that evoke Wine Country style while imparting holiday warmth.

Table Wreaths

“People don’t do old-fashioned table wreaths that often,” Butcher said. She recommends creating three similar wreaths in shades of red, cream, gold and green, using hydrangea, rosemary, scabiosa and eucalyptus. In the centers of the wreaths, place two spherical bowls (fish bowls work well) filled with pomegranates and a low glass cylinder filled with gravel and a fat candle. “Elegant, stunning, simple, traditional,” Butcher said.

Pie Tins and Metal Containers

Butcher has two-tiered steel containers she fills with candles and greenery, although antique pie tins and cake pans can also be lovely. Line the bottom tin with cellophane and place a wet piece of Oasis floral foam on top to keep the greens fresh. Arrange a selection of fresh herbs and greens from your garden. On the top level, place a group of votive candles. (Butcher sells the steel containers at her school.)

Oak Gall Arrangements

With their round shape, oak galls remind Butcher of Christmas tree ornaments and she likes to decorate with them during the holidays. She fills short glass containers with moss, nestles candles in the center, and arranges oak galls around them. Or substitute roses and greens for one or two of the candles. “The moss ties everything together,” she said. “So natural and unusual, but again, simple and elegant.”

Candles121_optStacked Glass Squares

“When I was working in London, we did these very simple, clean, versatile glass squares stacked on a table. Contemporary and so pretty,” Butcher said. Place beeswax candles and greens in glass squares, and fresh pears, apples or pomegranates in others. Stack the squares or march them down the table. Butcher sometimes includes ceramic fruit, such as pears made by Kelly Farley of Pope Valley Pottery in Napa Valley.

Toy Trucks

The holiday season brings out the child in all of us, and toy trucks on the table are sure to bring a smile. Find vintage toy trucks with open beds in an antique store or online, and fill the beds with candles, pine cones and greenery.

Decorated Candelabra

Pull out a favorite old candelabra and candlesticks and give them a holiday look by tying olive sprigs or ivy to them, “almost like a natural skirt around them,” Butcher said.

Manzanita Tree

“I did a terrific tree last year for a Christmas table,” Butcher recalled. She placed a manzanita branch in a beautiful old umbrella stand, surrounding it with votive candles and a big pile of oranges around the base.

Petaluma’s Yuba Bicycles Creates Ultimate Bike

Who doesn’t want a new bike for Christmas — especially one outfitted with a 350-watt electric motor that kicks in for steep climbs and can carry up to 300 pounds of rider, kids and cargo?

The Spicy Curry model from Petaluma’s Yuba Bicycles is such a machine, capable of carrying loads at speeds up to 20 mph. A press on the pedals allows riders to get ahead of traffic; tap the hydraulic disc brakes to decelerate quickly. Sturdy and stable, Spicy Curry is ideal for commuting to work, running errands and taking on family outings.

The Spicy Curry
The Spicy Curry

The bike, which won a gold medal at the 2015 Eurobike Show in Germany, will set Santa back $4,500, although Yuba Bikes offers other electric-assisted cargo bikes from $2,600 to $3,500, and cargo-carrying models without motors.

Yuba Bikes founder Benjamin Sarrazin joined with Currie Technologies in Simi Valley to design the Spicy Curry, which has a battery life of approximately three hours, or 25 to 45 miles, depending on the power demand. It comes in just one color, eye-catching avocado, according to company specs, but the similarity to spicy green curry sauce cannot be ignored.

Yuba Bikes, yubabikes.com

Trek Santa Rosa, 512 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-546-8735, trekstoresantarosa.com

West County Cycle Service, 200 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-824-0112, westcountycycleservice.com

Applewood Restaurant Shuttering

Chef Jamil Peden at Applewood Inn and Restaurant
Chef Jamil Peden at Applewood Inn and Restaurant
Applewood Inn and Restaurant yellowtail crudo with radish blossoms by Chef Jamil Peden. Photo: Heather Irwin
Applewood Inn and Restaurant yellowtail crudo with radish blossoms by Chef Jamil Peden. Photo: Heather Irwin

Chef Jamil Peden tells BiteClub that Applewood Inn Restaurant in Guerneville will close Nov. 21, 2015  just eight months into his impressive kitchen takeover. Despite high critical praise for his haute California cuisine inspired by the restaurant garden, the West County Inn’s owner has decided to close the restaurant.

“We brought to restaurant to a great point over the last few months on our own, and without any marketing. I really love what I did there, ” he said.  Peden had high hopes when he took over the kitchen in April 2015, and was lauded by foodies for his attempts to recapture some of the restaurant’s former glory.  However, the task may have been too Herculean after several years of chef shuffles and sagging reviews that drove most of its former fans elsewhere.

“I was really surprised, but it is a decision that had to be made,” he added.

The once-stellar Michelin-starred restaurant had been an incubator for a number of outstanding young chefs including SF Chef Brian Gerritsen, David Frakes (Lynmar), Brian Anderson (Bistro 29) and Bruce Frieseke (Bella Vineyards). Frieseke captured a Michelin star for the restaurant in 2011 and 2012, but lost it soon after his departure. 

The good news is that Peden plans to begin work on his own restaurant concept, which he’s calling Medjool, immediately, and is looking for backing. Meanwhile, he plans to keep busy doing pop-ups and other gigs around the county while working to “fulfill my dream.”

The Inn remains open, and a new restaurant concept is slated for May.

Our Hero of the Valley Fire

Photo by Kent Porter

Profile on Press Democrat Photographer Kent Porter

Photo by Christopher Chung
Kent Porter in his personal fire suit. (Photo by Christopher Chung)

When the New York Times used the word “heroic” to describe The Press Democrat’s coverage of the Valley fire in Lake County, it was talking in large part about photographer Kent Porter.

The Santa Rosa newspaper’s master of disaster photography for 28 years, Porter has covered floods, mudslides, earthquakes and too many fires to count. This time, he was the first photographer on the scene in September, as a fire on Cobb Mountain began tearing across the drought-parched mountain and Middletown, overwhelming firefighters and sending thousands fleeing from their homes.

A few hours before, Porter, a 6-foot-5 giant of a man, had been relaxing at home in Windsor. When several air-tankers flew overhead, he checked his Twitter feed and scanners before racing northeast to the familiar rugged terrain of Lake County, where he grew up.

Porter would spend the next month documenting the flames’ unforgiving path of destruction, as well as the barren aftermath as thousands of residents returned home to only ashes. His photos ran worldwide, including the cover of the Times and dozens of TV programs and websites, as the fire scorched more than 175,000 acres and destroyed 1,050-plus structures.

Age: 53

BEEN THERE: 1987 Saragosa tornado in Texas, 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake in the Bay Area, 1991 Oakland Hills fire, 1994 Northridge earthquake, 1998 Rio Nido mudslide.

FIRST FIRE PHOTO: Age 8, armed with a Kodak Hawkeye 126 Instamatic, “I remember standing with my father, taking photos of the Aurora Marina in Nice (in Lake County) as it burned to the ground.”

CLOSEST CALL DURING VALLEY FIRE: Driving out of Middletown on Highway 175, “There were flames on both sides, the wind is blowing across the road, big sticks are coming at me on fire, trees are dropping everywhere, there are boulders on the road… . It was probably the most scared I’ve been.”

THE MUSIC OF FIRE: “Some people say it’s like a freight train, but I don’t get that. It’s like standing next to a giant waterfall. And sometimes when it goes through trees and brush, it sounds like sizzling bacon hitting a really hot grill.”

MENTOR: John LeBaron, the late Press Democrat photo chief and Santa Rosa Junior College instructor.

HIS WIFE’S TAKE: “She tells people, ‘I’m a fire widow,’ meaning she doesn’t see me much this time of year.”

Sonoma County Barbecue Scene is Smokin’

Burnt Ends at Sauced Barbecue Smokehouse in Petaluma, California. Heather Irwin.
Burnt Ends at Sauced Barbecue Smokehouse in Petaluma, California. Heather Irwin.
Barbecue Brisket from Rossi's 1906 in Sonoma, California. The new menu features Cal-Tex bbq from chef Ari Weisswasser. Photo Heather Irwin
Barbecue Brisket from Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma, California. The new menu features Cal-Tex bbq from chef Ari Weisswasser. Photo Heather Irwin

The new Sonoma aroma might just be wood-smoke and brisket.

Throughout Sonoma County, barbecue restaurants are popping up like gophers on a golf course. Turn around and another chef is touting his burnt ends and secret sauce. It’s become something of an obsession in a county where grilling has traditionally meant ahi burgers and tri-tip.

Part of the reason: Live-fire cooking is a hot trend, along with American comfort food and, maybe most of all, it’s the opposite of tweezer-perfect haute cuisine that has ruled Wine Country for years.

Ribs from Terry’s Southern Style Fish and BBQ in Rohnert Park. Heather Irwin for the Press Democrat.
Ribs from Terry’s Southern Style Fish and BBQ in Rohnert Park. Heather Irwin for the Press Democrat.

“Barbecue comes from a humble place,” said Brad Barmore, co-owner of KINSmoke, which recently opened in Healdsburg. “You can live high on the hog at lots of places around here, but what about the humble cuts? That’s what barbecue is about.”

But are they getting it right?

That’s the question we asked when sampling a handful of newcomers, along with some of the tried-and-true standbys. The results were mixed, because true ’cue is both art and science, and notoriously difficult to do in a restaurant environment with fixed costs, the need for accurate timing and space constraints for large smokers (not to mention expensive equipment to deal with air pollutions from the smoke). Barbecue waits for no man on a warming table, and spending 16-plus hours on a single brisket isn’t the height of efficiency in a restaurant environment.

So, with sauce on our faces and ribs stuck in our teeth, we’ve picked the best of the bunch and one stand-out fave for Sonoma County BBQ.

Interior of KINSmoke BBQ in Healdsburg, California. Photo: Heather Irwin
Interior of KINSmoke BBQ in Healdsburg, California. Photo: Heather Irwin

KINSmoke: Top Pick

With a “non-denominational” approach to regional barbecue, Barmore’s new restaurant features everything from St. Louis style pork ribs and Texas links to Alabama white sauce, Carolina mustard sauce and Texas brisket. But what makes his restaurant (co-owned with business partner JC Adams) unique? It’s all good, including the sides, probably the best in the county with lines out the door.

Barmore ate his way through Texas barbecue spots before opening KinSmoke, stopping at Franklin BBQ in Austin, the mecca of barbecue-dom. His wife’s family owned a barbecue restaurant for generations in Oklahoma, which is where he got the recipe for his secret sweet sauce. The potato salad is a Pennsylvania-Dutch recipe from a server at Barmore and Adams’ Windsor bistro, KIN.

“I’ve wanted to do this forever,” said Barmore, sitting at a thick wooden table topped with a roll of brown paper towels and a six-pack container of the restaurant’s five signature sauces. The sauces represent the United States of barbecue, from Alabama’s mayo-based white to South Carolina mustard, North Carolina vinegar, KC sweet and a California-inspired espresso barbecue sauce. Texans, of course, would rather eat their 10-gallon hats than slather sauce on a good piece of beef.

What sealed the deal: When ordering brisket at the walk-up counter, there’s a choice of lean or fatty. Too often local brisket is far too lean, missing the unctuous reason for eating it in the first place. That and the ribs are never boiled (a restaurant trick to cook the meat faster), but smoked for hours and hours and hours.

Brussels sprouts at Rossis 1906 in Sonoma, California
Brussels sprouts at Rossis 1906 in Sonoma, California

“Barbecue can’t be based solely on time,” said Barmore. It’s done when it’s done.

A few hints, if you go: One of the best things about KINSmoke is also the worst. Owners aren’t afraid to run out of the daily allotment of barbecue. Rather than over-preparing and leaving the meat to dry out all day, you’ll have to make another choice when brisket runs out . So go early, and be willing to make a compromise.

Grilled items include a coffee-rubbed porterhouse ($30) or coffee-rubbed KIN Burger ($11). Go light on the sides (most are $3-$9), and get a single serving to try as many as possible: mayo-y potato salad, Granny Smith apple horseradish slaw, macaroni salad, baked mac and pale ale hush puppies with cajun remoulade, sauteed sprouts, spiced sweet potato tater tots and stellar sweet cornbread ($1.25 each). They’re all excellent.

Barbecue Brisket from Rossi's 1906 in Sonoma, California. The new menu features Cal-Tex bbq from chef Ari Weisswasser. Photo Heather Irwin
Barbecue Brisket from Rossi’s 1906 in Sonoma, California. The new menu features Cal-Tex bbq from chef Ari Weisswasser. Photo Heather Irwin

Tables are mostly community-style, but (here’s a worst kept secret), you can also eat at the bar. No desserts, but a stellar beer and wine list that runs a full page, from PBR to MacPhail pinot noir and Seghesio zinfandel. 304 Center St., Healdsburg, 473-8440, kinsmoke.com, open daily for lunch and dinner.

 

Burnt Ends at Sauced Barbecue Smokehouse in Petaluma, California. Heather Irwin.
Burnt Ends at Sauced Barbecue Smokehouse in Petaluma, California. Heather Irwin.

Sauced

Burnt ends are the unicorns of West Coast barbecue. They’re nearly impossible to find, but if you ever do, hold on for dear life (and don’t tell anyone else). They’re a small cut from the point of a smoked brisket and are cooked within an inch of their life to render out the fat and collagen. Tender, crispy, wonderful. Most local spots don’t make enough brisket or use a slightly different cut (or tri-tip), making them so rare. Sauced has burnt ends so tender you don’t need teeth. Not to mention you can also get them in a sandwich (in limited quantities, $14.99) We’re also in love the loaded sweet potato with pulled pork, bacon, sour cream, chives and pretty much the kitchen sink of other goodies ($17.99-$19.99) and hush puppies with peach chutney, honey butter and bacon ($9.99). Plus beer, wine and plenty of whiskey for washing it all down. 151 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma, 410-4400, saucedbbqandsprits.com.

 

You might also like…

BBQ Smokehouse: Excellent southern barbecue from a well-studied master. Great roadhouse location, 6811 Laguna Park Way, Sebastopol, 829-3277.

Pack Jack: This old-school barbecue restaurant was resurrected from the ashes several years ago and remains a favorite. 3963 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol, 827-3665.