Biggest Restaurant Trends 2016: Where to find them in Sonoma County

Amy's Drive Thru interioer
Amy’s Drive Thru interioer

Predictions for what we’ll be eating (and what we won’t) are rolling out, as industry ball-gazers see what’s hot and what’s not.

This week, one of the biggest trend-watchers, Baum + Whiteman, released their forecast for restaurant trends 2016, and they rang pretty true to what we’re seeing around the Bay Area. Here’s a wrap-up of some of the most relevant new trends and “disruptors”, and where you can find them locally.

Amy's Burger prepared for the forthcoming Amy's Drive Thru from Amy's Kitchen
Amy’s Burger at Amy’s Drive Thru

1. Healthification of fast food: Fast and fast-casual restaurants are ramping up the good stuff and starting to eliminate the bad stuff on their menus. Local vegetarian fast-food concept, Amy’s Drive Thru is at the forefront of the movement. Chains like Chipotle, Panera, Subway and even McDonalds are finding ways to clean up their menus, ridding everything from GMO’s to artificial flavorings.

Chicken Liver Mousse with pumpkernickel bread at bird and the bottle in Santa Rosa.
Chicken Liver Mousse with pumpkernickel bread at bird and the bottle in Santa Rosa.

2. Newish Jewish: Chefs are embracing heritage cuisines like grandma’s matzoh ball soup and homemade bagels. Find bagels, Bialy’s and regional specialties like Shakshuka at Goodman’s Jewish Deli (West End Sunday Market, various Friday nights at St. Florians in Windsor). Bird and the Bottle does a take on matzoh ball soup with ramen broth and smoked chicken.

Cauliflower at Partake by K-J takes advantage of produce from the winery gardens.
Cauliflower at Partake by K-J takes advantage of produce from the winery gardens.

3. Veggies Rule: Plant-based dishes are gaining traction as consumers seek out healthier options when eating out. With the luxe produce in our region, its not hard to create impressive meat-free dishes that still taste delicious. Seed on the go, Seed to Leaf in downtown Santa Rosa.

Ahi tuna poke from Santa Rosa Seafood Raw Bar and Grill. Photo: Heather Irwin
Ahi tuna poke from Santa Rosa Seafood Raw Bar and Grill. Photo: Heather Irwin

4. Poke is the new Sushi: Hawaiian-style poke is having its moment. Typically a mix of ahi tuna, sesame oil, chilis, sesame seeds and soy sauce, its Hawaiian-style tuna tartare. We love it at Santa Rosa Seafood, along with an Asian-style tuna tartare at John Ash and Co., Belly Left Coast Kitchen and can’t wait to try rock cod poke at the recently-opened Ninebark in Napa.

Ramen at Ramen Gaijin, a new pop-up ramen bar. Photo Heather irwin
Ramen at Ramen Gaijin, a new pop-up ramen bar. Photo Heather irwin
Pork Ramen at Shige Sushi in Cotati. photo heather irwin.
Pork Ramen at Shige Sushi in Cotati. photo heather irwin.

5. Globalized Ramen: I’ve caught the ramen bug. Though Sonoma County has had various versions at sushi restaurants for years (and lo, how we miss the perfect ramen at the-before-its-time Shimo in Healdsburg), this Japanese noodle soup is getting easier to find. Ramen Gaijin is the place for obsessively authentic ramen, but we also love the pork ramen at Shige Sushi.

Maple Sea Bakin' from The Great and Wonderful Sea of Change Trading Company
Maple Sea Bakin’ from The Great and Wonderful Sea of Change Trading Company

6. Seaweed is the new Kale: Move over kale, because seaweed is finding its way into everything. With huge health benefits, sustainability and a briny flavor that more Americans are learning to love, one of our favorite ways to eat it? Snacks. We’re obsessed with the local  and Seaweed Bakin’ from The Great and Wonderful Sea of Change Trading Co. from Windsor. The small company hand-harvests locally in the late spring, as well as sourcing from other sustainable sources.

7. Tipping Is Out, Living Wages are In: There’s been lots of news lately about restaurants ending tipping and adding gratuity of 18% (or more) to the checks in order to provide living wages for their employees. There’s been lots of backlash from restaurant-goers in the past, but the tide seems to be turning as consumers become more educated. Pullman Kitchen bravely tried it when it opened (and dropped it after a lot of flack), but now Peter Lowell’s is giving it a shot. We think you’ll see more of this trend as consumers get wise to the real costs of restaurants.

8. Dinner to your door: Although chic food and restaurant delivery services like UberEats, Postmates and AmazonPrime Now are focused on larger urban areas, Sonoma County isn’t stranded. Yelp’s Eat24hours.com, FoodToYou.com, and PetalumaFoodTaxi.com will deliver from a list of restaurant partners to deliver everything from cookies to barbecue.

Want something more personalized? Chef-driven meal delivery services like Ruthy’s Real Meals are finding a niche, offering vegetarian, vegan and omnivorous entrees. If you’re willing to pick-up, we’re fans of Three Leaves Foods’ seasonally-inspired menus. We’re also hearing great stuff about meal-in-a-box delivery services like Blue Apron, Hello Fresh, Mark Bittman’s Purple Carrot and Plated.com. What once seemed a luxury has become a fast way to hang on to the tradition of a family meal.

Here are a few more buzz words you’ll be seeing: Falafel appearing as vegetables in serious restaurants. Kombucha going mainstream. Burnt vegetables. “Shack” in restaurant names. Everything bagel seasoning mix. Root-to-stalk cooking. Adding seaweed to popcorn. More automation and kiosks in fastfood, fast-casual restaurants … speeding service, saving labor. 3-D food printers. General Tso flavorings. Alcoholic beverages in quick-service restaurants. Paella. Fast feeders complicating their lives by adding build-your-own options. Values, not value … consumers scrutinizing restaurants’ policies on health-wellness, sustainability, additives, GMO, animal welfare, Nashville Hot Chicken. Fallout in frozen yogurt chains … juice bars may be next. Food halls galore — maybe too many. War on food waste. What happened to bone broth? Philippine cuisine.

 

Mixology: Get Your Drink On

Want to sip something different during the holidays? Head to these local watering holes for a comforting cocktail created with warmth in mind, or shake one up yourself. Three top-notch bartenders offer distinctive drinks they serve this time of year.

JB0915_DRINKS_ELDORADO_optEl Dorado Kitchen

Sonoma

“To me, a well-crafted cocktail, with the perfect balance of ingredients and a bit of love, can unlock beautiful memories,” head bartender Kenny DeAlba said.

“Winter and Christmas being my favorite time of year, I created this ‘thymely’ cocktail that brings friends, family and loved ones together. That’s my passion and goal: Create cocktails that help bring great memories.”

Father Thyme
(serves 1)
3 sprigs thyme
1½ ounces Osocalis brandy
½ ounce Drambuie
½ ounce honey water
½ ounce lemon juice
lemon peel for garnish

Place the thyme sprigs in a shaker and muddle them to release their oils. Add the remaining ingredients and shake well to combine. Double strain into a martini glass and garnish with the lemon peel.

Spoonbar

Healdsburg

JB0915_DRINKS_SPOONBAR_opt“When the weather gets colder, it’s a no-brainer to turn to the classic whiskey cocktails: Old-Fashioneds, Manhattans, savory drinks,” bar manager Alec Vlastnik said. “I like to enhance these recipes by adding winter spices and flavors to make them even more winter-friendly.

“That’s where the Fireside Sour came from. The bourbon we use for this cocktail is beautiful stuff. When you put our house-made blood orange syrup and add spices like clove and cinnamon, you have a drink that makes you start thinking about fireplaces and good times with family. The cranberry bitters balance the drink with a touch of acidity and smell like Thanksgiving.”

Fireside Sour
(serves 1)
1½ ounces W.L. Weller Special Reserve Bourbon
½ ounce Campari
½ ounce Pür Likör Spice Blood Orange Liqueur
¾ ounce lemon
½ ounce egg white
dash cranberry bitters

Combine all the ingredients in a shaker, without ice, and shake for 15 seconds to fluff the egg white. Add 1 cup of ice and shake for another 15 seconds. Double strain into a martini glass and finish with the dash of bitters.

Stark’s Steak & Seafood

Santa Rosa

jb0916_cocktails_stark_opt“Glogg liqueur is really unique and we were looking for a way to highlight it in a new cocktail,” bar manager Mamadou Diouf explained. “We came up with the Broken Halo as a different take on the classic ‘holy trinity’ of winter spices: the cardamom, cloves and cinnamon that are prominent in the liqueur.

“You think about these flavors in eggnog, fruitcake and all those great holiday sweets. In this cocktail, there’s a bit of fruitiness from the Aperol, but the acid and bitter notes tie everything together to create a drink that is more refreshing than warming.”

Broken Halo
(serves 1)
1½ ounces vodka
½ ounce Geijer Glögg liqueur
½ ounce Aperol
1 ounce lemon juice
1 dash Angostura Bitters
1 ounce simple syrup
sage leaf

Put all the ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Shake well, and double strain into a martini glass. Garnish with the sage leaf.

Shopping: Holiday Wine Country Finds

Sonoma winter is more a state of mind than a time for bracing against snow and sleet. Sonomans are quick to nestle by the fire with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon while waiting for Santa’s sleigh, even if the sun is shining and the temperature mild. With this in mind, Heather Irwin offers some great gifts to put under the tree — or in your own stocking.

hoodie_optTerry, Terry Christmas

Sonoma’s winter temperatures can go from balmy to frigid in a matter of hours, which is why most of us carry a sweatshirt or three in the car. The Diana Wrap from Evy’s Tree is a cozy but classy French terry wrap with a comfortably loose fit. Headed to the coast? The cable-knit collar and hood warm things up, and a kilt pin secures against the Pacific chill. Made in Sonoma by gals who get it.

$119.95, evystree.com

babyshirt_2_optSnuggle Honey

Start your little tyke out right with this handmade baby hoodie made from organic cotton jersey with a toasty (yet soft) thermal lining and hand-woven Guatemalan fair-trade fabric. All of Hippie Baby’s clothes and blankets are made in Sebastopol
and vary a bit, but who wants cookie-cutter
baby fashion, anyway?

$45, online only at Hippie Baby Organics, hippiebaby.org

Give Yourself a Hand

Handwarmers_2_optWhen the weather gets nippy, bathe your hands in tasty (recycled) cashmere hand warmers. These fingerless gloves come in every shade of the rainbow and perhaps a few more. Made locally, they’re snapped up in a heartbeat every fall.

$40, Ethical Clothing, 122 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-769-8564, ethicalclothing-petaluma.com

soapy tails_optBubble Trouble

What has Fido been rolling in today? Peee-ewww!
Combat your puppy’s proclivity for the putrid with a Soapy Tails Bathe & Groom Gift Set. It’s everything you need to get his coat soft, his paws supple and that awful stench out.

$40, Circle of Hands, 6780 McKinley St., Suite 120, Sebastopol,
707-634-6140, circleofhandswaldorfshop.com; also at soapcauldron.com/soapy-tailssoapy tails.tif

stompers hat_optFan Club

We heart Wine Country’s professional baseball team. Based in the town of Sonoma, the Sonoma Stompers are a bootstrapping squad that locals love, despite a rough 2015 season. Show your Stomper Pride with a traffic-stopping orange trucker cap while you wait for next season to start.

$17.99, stompersbaseball.com

BlueBarrel_2_optSaving Raindrops

Dry, dead lawns are a drag, but watering could get you in serious trouble during the ongoing drought. Save this winter’s precipitation like a champ with 55-gallon rain barrels from BlueBarrel Systems in Santa Rosa, to capture roof runoff and hold it for drier days. Why the color blue? It’s the industry standard for food-grade containers, so your upcycled water barrels may have previously held anything from hot sauce to grape juice. Prices vary, but a simple
two-barrel system starts at about $250.

707-394-5009, bluebarrelsystems.com

parkpass_2_optPark and Ride (or Hike)

Give the gift of the outdoors: an annual Sonoma County Regional Parks Pass that gives holders access to more than 50 regional parks, from Gualala to Petaluma. The pass includes free parking, a night of camping, admission to the Tolay Fall Festival in October and discounts at several outdoor recreation stores. Purchases also support the infrastructure of our insanely beautiful local park system. Win, win.

$69, Sonoma County Regional Parks,
2300 County Center Drive, Suite 120A,
Santa Rosa, 707-565-2041,
parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov

GroupShot_5Cans_2_optChalk It Up To…

Designers dream in all the colors of Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paint (not chalkboard paint), the darling of Pinterest and DIYers around the globe. It’s a matte-finish paint that needs no priming or sanding, comes in vintage-y colors such as Duck Egg Blue and Paris Grey, and works perfectly for restyling that dinged-up old side table in your mom’s garage.

$39.95 a quart, ShabbyGirl Furniture at Summer Cottage, 153 Kentucky St., Petaluma, 707-776-2873, summercottageantiques.com

alembic bass_optAll About That Bass

Mention Alembic to any bass player and watch a look of deep wistfulness come over his or her face. The Bentley of electric basses, Alembic’s custom-made instruments take months to craft in the Santa Rosa factory, using exotic woods, mother-of-pearl inlays and curves anyone would envy. Our personal fave is the Series II: With a heart-shaped tailpiece and wide body, this guitar is all about the bass. No treble.

$23,500 and up, 707-523-2611, alembic.com. Factory visits available by appointment.

A Bog of Your Own

Carnivore MadeBog_optCarnivorous plants say, “I love you,” in a way that’s, well, unique. California Carnivores’ Make Your Own Bog (Deluxe Kit, natch), includes the ever-popular Venus’ flytrap, pitcher plants, sundews and perhaps the most horrifying of them all, bladderworts (hundreds of tiny bladder-like traps hide in their aquatic stems). How you choose to feed these meat-eating flora is up to you. Bugs, beware.

$69.95, California Carnivores, 2833 Old Gravenstein Highway, Sebastopol, 707-823-0433, californiacarnivores.com

It’s Your Bag

You don’t hand down pleather purses to your grandkids. This, however, is an heirloom piece they’ll fight over after you’ve broken it in for purse_2_optdecades. Using butter-soft leather, artist Chantel Garayalde sews each piece, adding a bit of quirk and personality to each bag. Age and use only improve the feel, and metallic embellishments like her trademark heart are an added conversation starter that will put any Fendi or Gucci to shame.

$1,400, Tamarind, 180 Morris St., No. 70, Sebastopol, 707-861-9531, chantelgarayalde.com

Book2_silo_optScience of Salt

Only after mastering the science of cooking can you think about the art, because a dried-out pork chop is still a dried-out pork chop, no matter how well you plate it. Cooking Light magazine columnist and SeriousEats.com culinary director J. Kenji Lopez-Alt breaks down techniques and does rigorous testing for everything, from the perfect Thanksgiving turkey to ideal onion rings, in his book, “The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science” (W.W. Norton and Co.). The tome is a hefty 958 pages, perfect for perusing by the fire.

$49.95, Readers’ Books, 130 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-939-1779, readersbooks.com

Chef Shuffle: Village Inn

Chris Ludwick named Exec Chef of Monte Rio's Village Inn
Chris Ludwick named Exec Chef of Monte Rio’s Village Inn

The Village Inn and Restaurant in Monte Rio has tapped Chef Chris Ludwick from Earth’s Bounty Kitchen and Wine Bar and Grapevine Catering as its executive chef. Owners Judy Harvey and Roger Hicks have been restoring the historic property over the last six months, and hope to upgrade their restaurant offerings with input from Ludwick. The popular catering chef will continue with his current ventures in addition to the new gig. The post was most recently held by Chef William Oliver.

Supermarket Spy: Firefly Chocolate with Orange and Rose

Firefly Chocolate from the town of Windsor, in Sonoma County, is 85% organic cacao. Photo: Heather Irwin
Firefly Chocolate from the town of Windsor, in Sonoma County, is 85% organic cacao. Photo: Heather Irwin

Firefly Chocolate with Orange and Rose, $4.99, Community Market

Quetzacoatl, the Aztec god of cacao, wants to smash your Hershey bar with his mighty fist. Because chocolate was never meant to be the sugary, waxy thing its become, but a dark, bitter, magical concoction mixed with spices and wine into a strength-building tincture.

Here in Sonoma County, Jonas Ketterle pays homage to the old ways of chocolate-making with his Windsor-based chocolateria Firefly Chocolate. Inspired by the chocolate-making traditions of the Zapotec town of Teotitlan del Valle, Ketterle learned how the locals fire-roasted and hand-peeled the beans “within sight of their sacred mountain,” stone grinding and sweetening the powder with honey.

After two years of testing, mostly in his own kitchen using organic cacao from Belize, Firefly Chocolates was born. Using coconut palm sugar as a sweetner and maintaining the vitality of the chocolate by roasting it at lower temperatures, he had a product that Quetzacoatl might actually recognize.

85% cocao (that’s really dark), the resulting organic chocolate bar is more like a fine wine than a Hershey Kiss. Bitter tannins are mellowed by the perfumed flavors of rose and orange, making this a bar you’ll savor rather than snarf in a single sitting. The chocolate gods approve.

“Peanuts” in 3-D

All photos courtesy Twentieth Century Fox & Peanuts Worldwide LLC

Snoopy fans can do their happy dance because “The Peanuts Movie,” the first animated feature film based on Charles “Sparky” Schulz’s comic strip in 35 years, opens nationwide Nov. 6.

The timing marks the 65th anniversary of “Peanuts” and 50 years since the first television special based on the strip, “A Charlie Brown Christmas,” debuted. It’s a holiday gift to “Peanuts” devotees everywhere, especially those who knew Schulz during his years living in Sebastopol and Santa Rosa.

Led by the Schulz family, the film’s creative team labored to come up with a modern, state-of-the-art, 3-D computer-animated film that is also true to Schulz’s iconic, deceptively simple-looking drawing style.

“The characters needed to match what we saw in the comic strip,” said the film’s director, Steve Martino, whose film credits include “Ice Age: Continental Drift” and the film adaptation of Dr. Seuss’ “Horton Hears a Who.”

The 85-minute, $150 million film, made by Blue Sky Studios for Twentieth Century Fox, features the “Peanuts” gang, including Charlie Brown, Lucy, Linus, Snoopy, the mysterious Little Red-Headed Girl and Franklin, the strip’s first African-American character, introduced in 1968.

Instead of recruiting big-name TV and film stars as the vocal cast, “The Peanuts Movie” employs the voices of grade-school children, to give the film an authentic childlike feel.

“It’s my dream movie. I thought it would never happen, but it has,” said Craig Schulz, the cartoonist’s son, who co-produced and co-wrote the film with his own son, Bryan, a recent film school graduate, and Bryan’s writing partner, Cornelius Uliano.

Charles Schulz, who moved from Minnesota to Sebastopol in 1958, died in 2000 in Santa Rosa. At its height, his strip ran in 2,800 newspapers, and reprints still run in approximately 2,000 papers.

“Peanuts” inspired 50 animated TV specials, two brief animated TV series and four previous feature films. The last one, “Bon Voyage, Charlie Brown (and Don’t Come Back),” was released in 1980.

“Peanuts” buffs should be reassured to know that the Schulz family worked long and hard to keep the movie true to Sparky’s original vision.

“The first line of the contract is that we have control,” said Craig, who started working on the movie idea eight years ago. “We want to protect Dad’s legacy. We picked the team, the director and the studio.”

All photos courtesy Twentieth Century Fox & Peanuts Worldwide LLC

Top 100 Wines: Merlot

Chelsea Goldschmidt
2013 Alexander Valley Merlot
$17
One of winemaker Nick Goldschmidt’s “Daughters” series and named for No. 2 daughter Chelsea, this Merlot is youthful and fresh-tasting, with savory tobacco, anise and barrel spice notes accenting the juicy red cherry and berry flavors. Good value. (LM)

FrostWatch Vineyard & Winery
2012 Bennett Valley Merlot
$32
The Bennett Valley region in southeast Santa Rosa has long been a happy home for Merlot, and this wine underscores that. It has aromas
and soft, juicy flavors of baked plum, with pencil shavings and cedar notes in the background. The long finish speaks its mind about the
pleasure of cherries. (VB)

Kendall-Jackson
2012 Vintner’s Reserve Sonoma County Merlot
$23
Splashes of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon add complexity to this flat-out delicious, stylish Merlot. Generous in plump plum, black
raspberry and black cherry fruit, it has a very pleasant herbal quality, moderate oak structure and supple tannins. (LM)

Merriam Vineyards
2011 Windacre Russian River Valley Merlot
$30
From the eastern, warmest part of the cool Russian River Valley comes this wine, awarded 95 points at the North Coast Wine Challenge and showing hints of plum, dark cherry and distinctive dried red cherry. It’s mouthwatering and firmly structured, suggesting a long life in the cellar. (LM)

Pride Mountain
2012 Vintner Select Merlot Sonoma County
$80
Grown in an area called the Lower Mountaintop, this Merlot is complex and sinewy, with elements of candied cherry, raspberry, vanilla and cured meat. With plenty of body to stay vibrant, it’s also full-bodied, rich in dark chocolate and toasted oak. (VB)

Top 100 Wines: Meet & Greet Theresa Heredia

Gary Farrell Theresa Heredia 2She would have been a chemistry professor, if wine hadn’t gotten in the way.

Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, earned a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry, was a scientist focused on cancer related peptide research, and a Ph.D. candidate in chemistry at UC Davis.

But her studies and enology-student colleagues led her to appreciate not only the science of wine, but the pleasures of drinking it. She switched course to winemaking studies.

After working in Burgundy, France, at Domaine de Montille, Heredia was hired as enologist at Saintsbury winery in Carneros, then as a winemaker at Joseph Phelps Vineyards in St. Helena. Phelps sent her to Freestone to launch Freestone Vineyards on the Sonoma Coast, and the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs she made there were remarkable — so much so that Gary Farrell management snapped her up in spring
2012 as its winemaker.

Heredia’s preference for elegant, crisp, mouthwatering wines — which include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a lovely rosé of Pinot Noir — match the winery’s house style, established by founder Gary Farrell in 1982. He sold the company in 2004, and under current owner The Vincraft Group, Heredia has been given the ability to purchase grapes from some of Russian River Valley’s most respected
vineyards, among them Rochioli, Rochioli-Allen, Hallberg and Westside Farms. A Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc from Heredia made our Top 100, though several other of her wines would be equal replacements. The wines from this producer have never been better.

Top 100 Wines: Pinot Noir

Arista Winery
2013 Toboni Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$45
From a 15-acre vineyard off Olivet Lane, this vineyard-designate shows off the talents of new winemaker Matthew Courtney and the longtime
farming prowess of Mary and Joe Toboni, offering tight acidity and fine-grained tannins around a core of succulently exotic dark cherry,
raspberry and cola, the finish meaty in oak. (VB)

Balletto Vineyards & Winery
2012 Russian River Valley Burnside Road Estate Pinot Noir
$42
Always a standout from this estate-driven producer, the 2012 vintage of Burnside is exotically earthy, delivering herbal, toasty aromas and a core of just-picked strawberry fruit. It’s soft, silky, and lingers on the finish. (VB)

Benziger Family
2012 De Coelo Arbore Sacra Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
$75
Benziger makes four Pinot Noirs from this special coastal site, with Arbore Sacra capturing the savory aspect of grapes grown in the chilly De Coelo vineyard. Structured and subtle, the wine is memorably graceful, nuanced in Asian spice and blackberry, with fine-grain tannins and a long, spicy finish. (VB)

Buena Vista Winery
2012 Carneros Pinot Noir
$25
This wine is a steal at its price. It’s silky and substantial, with lighter tones of pomegranate, cherry and cola, and sandalwood and mushroom
subtlety. (VB)

Dutton-Goldfield
2013 Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$40
Reasonably priced — though not cheap — for a high-quality Russian River Valley Pinot, this blend of grapes grown on the vast Dutton
Ranch has pure, juicy wild berry and dark cherry fruit, aromas of Bing cherry and rosewater, and lots of nutmeg and vanilla spice. Supple tannins complete the package. (LM)

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
2013 Hallberg Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$55
Gary Farrell made fabulous wines when he owned this brand. Now under owner Bill Price and winemaker Theresa Heredia, the wines have never been better. The Hallberg bottling is vivacious and bright, with luscious boysenberry and dark cherry flavors, savory spice and
a long, crisp, elegant finish. (LM)

Hook & Ladder Vineyards & Winery
2013 Estate Russian River Valley
$27
A 97-pointer at the North Coast Wine Challenge, it has sturdy structure and dense black cherry, blackberry and cola flavors. On the richer side of the Pinot Noir scale, it remains balanced and lively. From Christine and Cecil De Loach, former owners of DeLoach Vineyards. (LM)

Kutch Wines
2013 McDougal Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
$59
Weighing in at just 12.9% alcohol, this wine has earthy forest floor, black olive and vanillin notes on the nose. Ultra-smooth tannins, plump black cherry, plum and pomegranate fruit, and hints of Christmas spice and tobacco make it deep and distinctive. Jamie Kutch moved west from Wall Street to produce this style of wine. (LM)

Lynmar Estate
2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$60
The intense, ripe red fruit provides a rich, luxuriant mouthfeel, yet the wine is keenly balanced, elegant and never over the top, with gentle oak influence, silky tannins and a succulent finish. (LM)

Merry Edwards
2012 Meredith Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$60
Vibrant blackberry, blueberry and dark cherry fruit is wrapped in vanillin oak and braced by firm tannins that scream for pairing now with
rare steak and prime rib. Sock it away for five years or so and it should become more layered and supple. (LM)

Papapietro Perry
2012 Leras Family Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$56
A ripe, fleshy and opulent wine, it’s also balanced and relatively elegant, with well-integrated oak and tannin. Dark cherry is at the center of flavor, accented by anise, cola and orange peel. Medium-bodied, it’ll do well at the table, pairing with a wide range of foods. (VB)

Schug Carneros Estate
2012 Estate Carneros Pinot Noir
$45
Spicy, smoky and suave, with inviting cherry and rose petal aromas and a palate of juicy dark cherry, red plum and cherry cola flavors. The
velvety tannins are contrasted by mouthwatering acidity. (LM)

Sebastiani
2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir
$19
Distinctive for its earthy, mineral aromas, which lead to ripe red fruits, structured tannins and medium-full-body. It’s a juicy wine at a great price in the ever-more-pricy Sonoma Pinot Noir field. (LM)

Siduri
2013 Keefer Ranch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$52
From a rock-star vineyard site, this Pinot is exuberant in raspberry, cherry and cocoa, accented in sweet oak. Structured acidity and toned down tannins maintain a balance of approachability, though the wine should age beautifully for another 10 years. (VB)

Sojourn Cellars
2013 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
$59
Planted on a steep, rocky hillside in the chilly Petaluma Gap, Gap’s Crown is known for producing intense, firmly structured Pinot Noir.
Sojourn’s bottling is all that, compact yet brimming with dark cherry and blueberry fruit, barrel spice and forest-after-a rain character.
Built to improve with cellaring. (LM)

Sonoma-Cutrer
2013 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$37
This Chardonnay specialist has branched out to Pinot Noir under winemaker Mick Schroeder, and among its Pinot bottlings, this one is the highlight: fresh, crisp cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, spice, excellent structure and persistent on the finish. (LM)

St. Francis Winery
2013 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
$40
Lavish plum, cherry and distinctive blood orange flavors meld with savory clove and earthiness in this concentrated, plush wine with silky tannins. (LM)

Tricycle Wine Partners
2013 Poseidon Vineyard Estate Carneros Pinot Noir
$32
Seamless, supple and with big fruit flavors, it’s a complex mix of floral, red and black cherry, cola and spice elements. The finish is long and crisp. (LM)

Top 100 Wines: Know Your Vintages

2011
It was a cool, wet and challenging growing season in Sonoma, yet experienced viticulturists and winemakers combined to produce excellent wines. But there were a lot fewer of them: Grape yields were down some 40 percent from normal, as growers removed unripe and rot-affected clusters so that the vines could focus their energy on ripening the remaining grapes. The wines generally have lower
alcohol levels, subtle fruitiness, more elegance and firmer tannins than in warmer years.

2012
After 2011, this one was a dream, drama-free and consistent. This first year of a four-year drought was dry and warm but not too hot, and there was no rainfall at the wrong times. The crop was abundant and the quality excellent, with smiles all around in vineyards and cellars. “The last of our Cabernet Sauvignon crossed the scale Oct. 27,” said Dry Creek Vineyard winemaker Tim Bell. “The last two weeks were full of long days, but when we needed an adrenalin blast, the Giants came through by winning the World Series.”

2013
It was near-perfect, with some winemakers calling it one of the best vintages in the last 30 years. Warmer than 2012, but still relatively moderate, 2013 had no heat spikes to sap grapes of their juice. A mild June, cool July and perfectly warm August and September helped create mature and complex flavors across all varieties. The whites are generous yet crisp and refreshing, the reds full-bodied, deeply fruited and balanced. “For Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, 2013 essentially offered conditions that were various degrees of wonderful,” said James Hall, co-founder and winemaker at Patz & Hall in Sonoma.

2014
With Sonoma still in drought mode, the mild winter and spring prompted vines to push out their tender buds (which will eventually become grape clusters) very early. Spring frost can damage the buds, but 2014 didn’t allow that to happen. Harvest was compact, starting in July for sparkling wine and finishing in late October for Cabernet Sauvignon. Rain in September was merely a hiccup. “In the 17 years that I’ve been with Francis Ford Coppola Winery (in Geyserville), this has to be the best vintage I’ve ever seen, said Corey Beck, director of winemaking at the time. “The Chardonnay grapes were supple and succulent; the Cabernets were deep and complex. Across the board, it’s a great vintage.”

2015
We’ll know more in spring 2016, but the very low yield of high-quality grapes holds promise despite the fourth year of California’s historic drought.