Guests enjoy food prepared from chef Joyce Goldstein’s new cookbook, The New Mediterranean Jewish Table, during a Book Passage Cooks with Books event at Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa, California on Wednesday, June 1, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
As an especially committed aspiring author, Bill O’Neill traveled from Iowa City, Iowa early last year to participate in the first ever Sonoma County Writers’ Retreat in Santa Rosa. It was a significant investment of time and money, but it paid off, he believes.
“Kicking off 2024 with the retreat set an inspiring tone for my writing year,” O’Neill recalled of the six-day gathering that attracted nearly two dozen fellow authors for group workshops, literary sharing sessions and peer support on what can be a very challenging artistic pursuit.
“The circle of mutual trust and curiosity led to some beautiful pieces (in his personal essays and poems genre), many composed during the retreat,” he said.
Founded by accomplished author Lizzie Simon, the writers’ retreat is set to welcome another class from Jan. 3 to Jan. 8, 2025, as the group converges on The Astro motel in downtown Santa Rosa.
Participants of the 2025 Sonoma County Writers’ Retreat will stay at The Astro in Santa Rosa. (The Astro)Participants of the 2025 Sonoma County Writers’ Retreat will stay at The Astro in Santa Rosa. (The Astro)Participants of the 2025 Sonoma County Writers Retreat will stay at The Astro in Santa Rosa. (The Astro)
There, at the retro-designed property, writers will explore the deep nuances of essays and memoirs, led by Simon and a trio of guest authors — Nina Renata Aron, Phyllis Grant and Joanna Hershon.
Simon, who lives in Manhattan’s East Village with her husband, Santa Rosa native Eric Anderson, has taught memoir writing for more than 20 years, since her own first book and nonfiction narrative, “Detour,” was published in 2003 by Atria Books.
“We’re going to dive into eliminating writing blocks, and engage writers in expansive, challenging ways to consider a more literary approach to memoir,” she said. “Writers will get blasted with inspiration and courage, and they will gain specific direction on how to set up a lasting, sustainable writing practice, as well as editorial tools to sharpen and elevate their writing.”
While Simon takes the lead throughout the retreat, each guest author will offer concentrated insight.
Aron, a literary critic and author of the memoir “Good Morning, Destroyer of Men’s Souls,” will host a seminar on weaving historical writing into memoir. Grant, author of the memoir “Everything is Under Control,” will focus on sensual writing and on setting up a sustainable writing practice. And Hershon, author of five novels, including The New York Times-reviewed suspense novel “St. Ivo,” will focus on applying tools of fiction to memoir.
“There will be guidance, yes, tons of it. Critique, no,” Simon said. “There will be writing exercises and people will be invited to read their work — but this is not a pile-on, critique-style workshop. I do not believe in them at all. I think they’re responsible for confusing and inhibiting writers. There is a time and place for editorial feedback — with a skilled editor, one on one, once the material is ready for it.”
The idea to launch retreats in Wine Country came because Anderson is one of the owners of The Astro and the nearby partner restaurant The Spinster Sisters.
Sonoma County Writers’ Retreat participants will have the opportunity to find inspiration and connect during afternoon excursions to local spots such as Bodega Head. (Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism)Ela Jean Beedle, center, delivers a meal to Randy Czech, driving, and Erin Mitchell during curbside pickup only service while Jake Ameral, right, and owner Liza Hinman, left, come out to check out their sporty car at The Spinster Sisters restaurant in Santa Rosa on April 2, 2020. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)Sonoma County Writers’ Retreat participants will have the opportunity to find inspiration and connect during afternoon excursions to local spots such as Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat) 2024
Attendees will stay at The Astro and enjoy a welcome dinner at The Spinster Sisters. Other activities include wine and chocolate tastings, along with afternoon excursions to local spots such as Bodega Head, Armstrong Redwoods, Lake Sonoma and Jack London State Historic Park.
In addition to being fun ways to explore Sonoma County, the outings encourage relaxed interaction.
“They’ll form bonds with other writers that will bolster them and hold them accountable to their goals,” Simon said.
As for real world opportunity in the rapidly changing literary world, participants of the writers’ retreat can get a peek behind that curtain, too.
“Between myself, Phyllis, Nina and Joanna, we’ve been published by mainstream publishers and featured in literary magazines and national and international publications,” Simon said. “We can help writers understand who and how to pitch, and what to expect.
“For example, while legacy media and book publishing is contracting, and the gatekeeping is more forbidding than ever, self-publishing companies like Ingram Spark and newsletter platforms like Substack are creating inroads for writers to publish and build an audience for their writing,” she added.
Simon points to a student of her ongoing Zoom memoir classes who this year sold her memoir manuscript to a commercial publisher for a high six-figure advance. But at the same time, Simon personally manages a popular Substack called “Lizzie’s Letter.”
“Commercial publishing is still powerful and worth going for,” she said. “Yet I earn more from my Substack than I did freelance writing, and I don’t have to bother pitching editors or altering my work to fit a publication.”
Details
Enrollment deadline for the Sonoma County Writers’ Retreat is Jan. 3, 2025. Tuition is $2,500, or $1,600 for locals who are not staying at The Astro (use the code SOCOLOCAL). lizziesimon.info
Nigiri Sushi, featuring Hamachi, Bluefin Tuna and Sea Urchin, made by owner/chef Michiyo Hagio at Michi Japanese Cuisine in Napa on Tuesday, December 17, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
Celebrity chef Hal Yamashita has parted ways with his eponymous restaurant that’s generated buzz since starting as a pop-up several years ago, then expanded into a swanky brick and mortar in downtown Napa in late 2019.
But the business isn’t going away completely — founding restaurant owner Michiyo Hagio has taken over all operations for the eatery and relocated it to a new space in south Napa. In January, she will change the name and introduce expanded menus dotted with her own creations.
Yamashita, a former “Iron Chef All Stars” talent, hit the scene doing pop-ups at spots like Napa Valley Distillery, Napastäk epicurean boutique and special events like BottleRock. When he secured a space at 1300 Main St. in downtown Napa (where Amami Sushi now is), he upped his game past sushi into Japanese Wagyu, robata and upscale touches like seafood imported from Japan, as well as housemade soy sauce.
Michiyo Hagio is the owner and chef at Michi Japanese Cuisine in Napa. Photo taken on Tuesday, December 17, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
But when the chef lost his lease late last year, he moved his food production to Spork Kitchens commissary in central Napa and returned to pop-ups and takeout. Recently, he returned to his home country of Japan to focus on his restaurant in Tokyo.
“Our contract terminated,” Hagio said of ending Yamashita’s consulting chef role. “I trained with him over the years, and he approved me as a chef. My father was a sushi chef in Japan, too, for more than 60 years, so I was always watching how he works.”
The COVID-19 pandemic and economic challenges made keeping the upscale restaurant unfeasible, so now Hagio is putting finishing touches on a much smaller, simpler space. It’s in an unlikely spot — a former Subway shop next to the DMV in an industrial park off Highway 221 and Kaiser Road.
Chawanmushi, made by owner/chef Michiyo Hagio, is a traditional Japanese savory egg custard dish at Michi Japanese Cuisine. Photo taken in Napa on Tuesday, December 17, 2024. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
For now, signage still reads “Hal Yamashita,” but within the next month, Hagio plans to rebrand as Michi Japanese Cuisine. She’s also testing menu items, with casual lunches of sushi, curry rice bowls and udon. At dinner, the lineup offers signatures like chawanmushi (a savory egg custard dish), grilled salmon, hamachi kama (yellowtail collar) and more sushi and curry bowls.
Soon, Hagio plans to roll out what she calls a “course menu,” meaning a prix fixe tasting of elevated dishes such as grilled scallops topped in butter soy sauce and uni, an omakase sushi plate, and matcha ice cream.
902 Enterprise Way, Suite A, Napa, 707-699-1864, halnapa.com
A fire dancer was one of many surprises at the “Seven Deadly Sins” TOWN dinner on March 28, 2024, at Montage Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Kim Carroll)
With the help of a gospel choir, fire dancer and a personable monkey, last winter’s inaugural season of the TOWN dinner series — short for Traveling Off-Season For Wine Night — redefined what a wine dinner can look like.
With 2025 fast approaching, Murray and Harris are back at it, creating a new round of downright fun food, wine and art experiences.
“We’re getting wilder and weirder,” Murray said. “If there’s an antithesis to stuffy, these dinners are it.”
A fire dancer at the “Seven Deadly Sins” TOWN dinner on March 28, 2024, at Montage Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Kim Carroll)
With the wisdom of TOWN’s 2024 season under their belts, Harris and Murray are making some tweaks. Last year there were five monthly dinners that started in November and ran through March. For the 2025 season, a series of three dinners will kick off in February, after the bustle of the winter holidays has calmed down.
However, the majority of what dedicated fans quickly grew to love is staying true to form. Every experience will have a unique theme where guests can only expect the unexpected. Last year’s entertainment included live clay sculpting, knockout performances by Muay Thai fighters, and photo opportunities with a monkey and sloth. Murray and Harris have developed a knack for making their wine dinner dreams reality.
Unlike conventional Wine Country dinners that ordinarily focus on one wine label, TOWN will continue to highlight multiple community businesses, including restaurants and wine brands other than their own.
Muay Thai fighters at “Thai-ing a Bow on the Holidays” TOWN dinner at Khom Loi in Sebastopol on Dec. 14, 2023. (Courtesy of TOWN)“Thai-ing a Bow on the Holidays” TOWN dinner at Khom Loi in Sebastopol on Dec. 14, 2023. (Courtesy of TOWN)
When Harris and Murray created the TOWN dinner series concept, the goal was to attract out-of-town visitors during the off-season and encourage them to hang around for a night or more. That hasn’t changed. When dinner guests purchase tickets, they receive a discount code that can be used at participating hotels. The hotels this year include Montage Healdsburg, Hotel Healdsburg, The Madrona, Harmon Guest House and h2hotel.
The first two dinners will take place at local restaurants. Themes vary from “Banquet of the Gods” at Montage Healdsburg’s Hazel Hill (Feb. 6) to “Revolutions” at Dry Creek Kitchen at Hotel Healdsburg (March 7).
“We are thrilled to be a part of the series again next year. Last year’s dinner was such a fun event on multiple fronts and a great opportunity for our culinary and service teams to create a one-of-a-kind dining experience,” said Jason Pringle, Montage Healdsburg executive chef. “I also enjoyed seeing our local community gather and experience a non-conventional dinner with a playful, whimsical feel.”
A sloth made a guest appearance at the “Seven Deadly Sins” TOWN dinner at Montage Healdsburg on March 28, 2024. (Courtesy of Kim Carroll)
The concept of community and bringing people together isn’t lost on TOWN’s creators. The third dinner will take place in Geyserville (April 4) with numerous neighborhood players joining in the “Spaghetti Western” action. Similar to a progressive dinner, Cyrus, Diavola, Catelli’s and Geyserville Gun Club will serve their take on spaghetti and meatballs, with a taste of the Wild West.
So kick up your boots and embrace your inner cowpoke, because the duo behind the TOWN dinner series is out to make it a night to remember. From tumbleweed to outlaws, anything’s possible.
Grace Davis’ life changed drastically when her mother died seven years ago. Her journey as a homeless person led her to a tiny patch of grass in a corner of a small park in Santa Rosa where she spent three years being a part of the community. Photo taken Wednesday, April 19, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Barry Maahsen remembers his friend not looking well. Something was off.
He’d arranged for the two to meet for coffee over the summer in Santa Rosa. They caught up. They laughed a little. The usual.
What was not usual was her request before they parted. Could he give her a lift home?
Maahsen remembers thinking that was strange. It was barely more than a quarter of a mile. She walked farther than that every day. And she never headed home so early. But he agreed.
“I gave her some money like I usually do and told her I’d see her in a few weeks,’” he said. “She said, ‘OK, I’m just not feeling that good.’ It was like somebody who had a cold.”
The following week, the phone rang in his subsidized apartment in south Petaluma. The stranger on the other end of the line was from a Sonoma County administration office. He had retrieved Maahsen’s number from his friend’s phone. He said he hoped Maahsen could help him. Bewildered, Maahsen kept listening.
The caller explained that Maahsen’s friend, who had been living on the streets for years, had been found deceased in the Santa Rosa park where she had made her home.
It was a gut punch, learning from a stranger that his friend was dead. No foul play was suspected, the man on the phone said. But officials had questions.
The key question? “We are trying to find out what her real name was.”
Grace Davis draws at sunset outside of the yurt where she has lived since she was evicted, her tent and possessions taken by police, from Steele Lane Park in Santa Rosa where she had lived for the past three years. Photo taken Wednesday, April 19, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The 59-year-old woman had been found unresponsive in Steele Lane Park on June 26, just after 12:30 p.m. She was one of the approximately 150 deaths in Sonoma County each year in which the deceased has no apparent family.
The woman had lived on the streets. She held no job. She had no pet, no partner, no identification. She was, it seemed, living almost entirely outside of the system. But this woman was far from anonymous.
She was Grace.
At a time when the issue of housing insecurity continues to frustrate citizens and public officials, and when others living on the street seek shelter in discreet, darkened corners away from the judgments of passersby and law enforcement, Grace lived unapologetically in the open. Her home was Steele Lane Park, a small, well-used, 2.4-acre city park in the heart of Santa Rosa.
Over a period of three years, her space in the park grew to include a six-person tent, a grill and a cooler. When those items were confiscated by Santa Rosa Police, she made do with far simpler accommodations — a sleeping bag, a piece of cardboard and an ever-present satchel that held her art supplies and Bible.
Neighbors, as that’s what Grace considered them, allowed her to store some of her things on their porch in inclement weather. One offered her use of an outdoor bathtub and did her laundry once a week. Multiple people spoke of giving Grace a tent over the years.
Dozens of relationships — real ones with highs and lows — developed during Grace’s time at the park. Many others considered her a friendly acquaintance, someone with whom they regularly shared passing greetings.
In interviews, Grace spoke of growing up in Dutchess County, New York, of her beloved mother “Sissy,” of losing two brothers too young.
She said she had been well educated, a career woman who was also deeply unfulfilled. She described herself as cast adrift when her mother died. She spoke openly of her descent into homelessness— but also of her embrace of the lifestyle.
And she spoke of finding God and of serving her community. Our community.
But much of what she said in interviews, much of the story she told her countless friends and acquaintances in Sonoma County, is difficult to corroborate. Her use of multiple names over time makes it nearly impossible.
To me, to friends and neighbors, to the baristas in the coffee shops and the clerks at Safeway, she was best known as Grace. She also used the name Ellynn. And Qua. She answered to all three names at different times and with different people.
But who was she?
Grace Davis leans against the sign for Steele Lane Park in Santa Rosa. Her tent, where she lived without complaint the past three years, was located just behind the sign until her eviction last month. Photo taken Wednesday, May 10, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Grace’s story in Sonoma County — and we will call her Grace in this story because it is the name she was most known by — starts largely with Barry Maahsen, the friend who took her to coffee and left her with some money the week before she died.
Grace was new to Santa Rosa and living on the street when Maahsen met her. He thinks the year was 2018.
Maahsen, a lifelong member of a commune known as One World Family, was living with three others in a rented home on Sleepy Hollow Drive in Santa Rosa when Grace walked through the door.
Maahsen didn’t know her as Grace. He called her El.
“El was short for Ellynn,” he said. “Ellynn Grace Cole was what she told us her name was. Other people called her Grace Davis. I never knew her as that.”
One of Maahsen’s roommates had struck up a conversation with Grace at Peet’s Coffee and later invited her to live with them and help care for an elderly member of the commune. There was no pay, but her room and board were provided. “We lived by the axiom, ‘Hold all things common, distribute each according to need,’” Maahsen said.
Grace’s new accommodations were modest, but her needs were met. She slept in what Maahsen described as an alcove with no door.
But over time, the situation frayed. “I would have liked it if she would have tried to support herself with food stamps or something or welfare or whatever, but then she’d have to have ID or whatever and I think that is what stopped her from doing it,” said Maahsen. “For some reason, she didn’t want to.”
In conversations last year, Grace told me that the idea of living with three members of the commune sounded good to her in theory, but that in reality, she felt thrust in the middle of decades of tension between the roommates.
“Living in that home humbled me,” she said. She knew two of the three roommates voted to evict her, with only Maahsen advocating that she stay. But rather than leave voluntarily, she stayed until the police knocked on the door.
“She knew it was coming. She got a notice, at the house,” Maahsen said. “Two big police officers came and she grabbed her stuff and she left.”
I asked Maahsen what she took with her.
“Just what she could carry,” he said. “She never had more than she could carry.”
It’s telling that Grace and Maahsen remained friends. They continued to meet up for coffee, go shopping and spend afternoons together until days before Grace’s death.
Last year, when I asked Grace about leaving the home, she didn’t go into detail.
“When I had it all, God strips you bare,” she said. “He strips you bare.”
Grace Davis, who has been homeless for the past seven years, spends her days drawing and chatting at neighborhood coffee shops. Davis was evicted, her tent and possessions taken by police, from Steele Lane Park in Santa Rosa where she had lived for the past three years. Photo taken Thursday, April 27, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
More than just her living arrangement changed on the day Ellynn “El” Grace Cole walked out of the shared house on Sleepy Hollow Drive and headed to Steele Lane Park.
When she returned to the street, she was friendly and outgoing, engaging in easy conversation. She talked with everyone.
But now she always introduced herself as Grace.
Neighbors who live around Steele Lane Park in Santa Rosa remember first seeing Grace in the winter of 2019. She spent days there, sitting on a rock near the park’s large, wooden sign. She would draw. She would read. She would engage with passersby.
But in those early days, it wasn’t obvious that she was spending her nights there.
After the pandemic turned the world upside down in the spring of 2020, Grace took advantage of prohibitions against sweeps of homeless encampments and set down roots, creating a home at the entrance to the park. For a time, a Google Street View of Schurman Drive featured a photo of Grace sitting in a chair and talking with a friend, surrounded by her belongings.
In those early days, some asked her to leave. She refused.
At the time, due to the pandemic, people were discouraged from gathering, even in parks. So Grace had the place largely to herself. She described finding a sense of peace. “When I first started sleeping there, I was exhausted,” Grace told me in 2023.
In time, Grace was accepted. And still later, embraced.
Neighbors credited her with helping monitor the small park, preventing open air drug use and littering and discouraging others from parking their vehicles for long periods. And her neighbors, her community, dubbed her “Amazing Grace.”
For three years, a Santa Rosa Police spokesman said the department recorded not a single complaint related to Grace. One neighbor said he refused to call the police about other unsavory activity at the park because he was afraid it would negatively affect Grace.
And Grace, imbued with natural confidence, believed that she had the right to live there. She’d earned it, she told me. Grace was so resolute in her position there that she left her valuables in and around her tent for hours at a time, spending her days in coffee shops, drawing and socializing.
She cherished the community she had built but was unafraid to flout its norms. She was described as an artist. A philosopher. A neighbor.
But also a conundrum.
She could be prickly. She would sometimes share theories that bordered on conspiracy, sharing links to videos about the dangers of antidepressant medications and vaccinations. She sent me videos suggesting that anarchists were ruining cities like Seattle and Portland. But she also sent an incomplete transcript of George Washington’s farewell speech and a link to a George Carlin stand-up set.
She had no time for public health addiction programs that focused on harm reduction. She regularly called efforts to lift up the unhoused as a massive government con job. She had harsh words for most of the folks who lived on the street.
“If they stopped getting high, most of them would have places to go,” Grace told me last year. “It’s not a homeless problem. It’s a drug problem and it’s an alcohol problem. There are people wanting to be out there. They have been given chance after chance after chance.”
I pushed back. What if people in crisis or in the throes of addiction need support? Need someone to walk alongside them to get clean?
“You can walk side by side with them but watch your pockets,” she said. “You can lead a horse to water but if that horse wants to do crack…” In 2022, an officer with the Santa Rosa-Sonoma County NAACP tried to link Grace with supports: financial assistance, therapy, transportation. The two had struck up a conversation at a coffee shop, according to NAACP branch president Kirstyne Lange.
Over the course of three to four months, there were discussions about how best to support Grace, including trying to get her a laptop. But it wasn’t easy. Grace seemed both willing and wary. “I wouldn’t call it resistance, but there was hesitation,” Lange said.
On top of that, there were practical issues. “I remember she didn’t have anything that could prove her identity or prove her living situation,” Lange said. “I would say the perception was that it felt like too much trouble, the questions, the paperwork. I think that it really felt strenuous.”
And then Grace “kind of disappeared,” Lange said. The phone she was using became unreliable. The NAACP officer eventually reconnected with her but was never able to link Grace with the services they had discussed, Lange said.
Then, in April 2023, Grace’s life was upended.
Sonoma County opened a sanctioned homeless camp on Ventura Avenue, near the park. Days later, officers from the Santa Rosa Police Department posted an eviction warning on Grace’s tent, and two days later, her belongings were removed and placed in police storage. Neighbors believed Grace’s home was collateral damage in local efforts to monitor activity in the wake of the sanctioned camp.
Left with only the bag she had carried to the coffee shop, Grace refused to retrieve her belongings, not even her Bible and art supplies. They took them, she explained, and they can return them.
At the same time, she was friendly and personal with law enforcement officers of multiple agencies. Despite a mistrust of the government, she had faith that Jesus would take care of her. She repeatedly said she had no plan, she simply followed Jesus.
“I’m doing what God tells me to do,” she told me. “It’s amazing.”
Artwork from Grace Davis, who lived near the entrance to Steele Lane Park off Schurman Drive in Santa Rosa, July 5, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
After Grace was evicted from Steele Lane Park, her physical footprint became smaller. With no tent, no cooler, no sleeping bag, she disappeared from the park for a while. The phone number I had for her stopped working. I could still find her at Peet’s, but our communication slowed considerably.
I ran into her at Safeway last winter. We walked the aisles together. I bought her a beer and a prepared salad. I noticed she didn’t look well. Her coloring was off. Others, too, told me after her death that she, off and on, showed signs of struggling. Closer to her death, people said she had a cough that wouldn’t let go.
But Grace was Grace. A strong personality, a strong woman. It was hard to imagine her weakened by much.
When Grace was evicted from the park, neighbor Vicky Kumpfer took her in, allowing her to stay in her backyard yurt. Their relationship was real in that it had highs and lows. They had a couple of disagreements over issues of trust. But, as true friends do, they came back together.
They had just mended one of those rifts last spring when Kumpfer, who works as an art consultant, convinced Grace, with some prodding, to show her art publicly. Kumpfer had eight pieces of Grace’s work and was in the early stages of planning a small show when Grace died.
Instead of planning an art exhibition, Kumpfer planned a memorial service. She set a time and got the word out the best she could. It would be held at the park, at the spot where Grace had slept for years.
She assumed neighbors would come, but didn’t know who else.
On a Wednesday afternoon two weeks after Grace died, Kumpfer set up a table and a few chairs, brought fruit and sparkling water. She also brought Racer 5 IPA, which prompted someone to recall aloud the time they tried to buy Grace a Modelo and she declined. She preferred IPA.
About 40 people showed up. Neighbors, yes. But also a retired opera singer who lives in Fountaingrove with her husband. A maintenance worker at Santa Rosa Junior College who took time off from his shift to attend. A special education teacher at a nearby school. A doctor and his wife who live miles from the park. A middle-aged woman who brought her daughter and who could not stop crying.
A man set up an electronic keyboard and played live music. People sang. People wept. People pinned messages to the fence that for years had provided Grace shelter.
“What surprised me was the diversity of the people,” Kumpfer said.
Vicky Kumpfer has art work she was collecting to do an exhibition for Grace Davis near a memorial for Davis near the entrance to Steele Lane Park off Schurman Drive in Santa Rosa, July 5, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
The day before the memorial service, Sonoma County’s chief deputy Public Administrator, Guardian and Conservator, Jennifer Hainstock, emailed me. Her office, Hainstock said, was charged with trying to find Grace’s family, and failing that, identify someone willing to make final arrangements for her.
In the case of deaths where there is no obvious family connection, Hainstock’s office culls information from newspaper stories, social media accounts, online databases. They make calls, they send emails, they write letters.
“We end up with about 45 people a year we just can’t find anybody for,” she said. “Or we find them, and they are, for whatever reason — no money, don’t want the ashes — unwilling.”
Hainstock’s office had not yet found family for Grace. The names they were using in their searches were Ellynn Grace Cole, aka Qua Grace Davis.
In 2023, the Santa Rosa Police Department had her name as Elgrace Cole. At the same time, Grace told me her name was Qua Grace Davis.
When I asked her then about the discrepancy, she told me that at some point she decided she didn’t like people using Qua. Her mom called her that, she said.
She said she “came up with” Ellynn, but didn’t say why. She said it was Barry Maahsen who affectionately shortened it to “El.”
With no identification, the name Grace offered officials at some point in her seven years here is the name that came up when the coroner’s office ran her fingerprints after her death.
It’s the name that appears on her death certificate along with an official cause of death: acute bacterial lobar pneumonia.
The coroner’s office took a DNA sample but did not run it through any database, because a match was found with fingerprints. An additional DNA inquiry would be expensive, said Sonoma County Sheriff’s Office spokesman Rob Dillion.
To have fingerprints turn up in a law enforcement search does not automatically mean the person had a criminal history. Fingerprints can be gleaned from things like the federal Transportation Security Administration files. Or if a person volunteers at a school. Or is a youth coach. “Just because her fingerprints are ‘in the system’ doesn’t mean it’s negative,” Dillion said.
But the name Ellynn Grace Cole?
“The fingerprint that came back to us as a match, that was the name she gave,” he said. “It doesn’t say when that was.”
There might be a reasonable explanation for this. Searches are only as good as the information put into them, Dillion explained. For someone born before the internet age, when official documents were filed on paper, not everything has been moved to an electronic database. Not everything can be found in a “search.”
Pencil artwork from Grace Davis, who lived near the entrance to Steele Lane Park off Schurman Drive in Santa Rosa, July 5, 2024. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat)
I also searched for Ellynn Grace Cole. And Grace Davis. And Qua Grace Davis.
And I looked for her mother, too. I called administrators in the Dutchess County N.Y. Records Room as well as New York state’s Vital Records office. I reached out to Vassar College, where Grace said she’d earned a degree. Officials there could find no record of Ellynn Grace Cole, Qua Grace Davis or Grace Davis. I also contacted officials at Marist College, where Grace said she’d worked. Again, nothing.
Which isn’t to say she did not work at Marist or earn a degree from Vassar, just that she didn’t do so with any of the names she used in Sonoma County.
Database searches in a slew of categories — deeds, mortgages, liens, assumed names — found nothing for the three names Grace used here in Sonoma County. I sent a Facebook friend request to someone named Ellynn Cole whose profile picture looked eerily like Grace’s style of painting, but whose public list of friends seemed to be filled with bots. No reply.
I sent messages via Facebook to two real-seeming friends of that “Ellynn Cole” explaining who I was trying to find. No reply.
When I ran the Social Security number listed on Grace’s death certificate through a search tool used by reporters, it returned a 59-year-old woman in Staten Island with a name not remotely close to any used by Grace.
I called her.
She didn’t let me finish my question before cutting me off and hanging up.
So I wrote her a letter, explaining the mystery. I told her a Social Security number associated with a now-deceased woman in California is also linked to her. I sent her a copy of our original story about Grace.
I never heard from her.
And as I searched, I fretted over what role I had played in what could at best be described as a local mystery, but at worst a lie. I’d been unable to confirm much of Grace’s story, so I allowed it to be told through her voice and through the voices of her community.
Those friends and neighbors spoke of Grace’s emotional intelligence and her almost eerie ability to read people. They spoke of her humor as well as her temper. Of her resilience and good cheer in the face of daunting circumstances.
Many of Grace’s friends described her as an outlier, different from other unhoused people — not necessarily part of the divisive debate about how to handle the approximately 2,500 people living unhoused in this county.
Sure, she lived on the street, but she was always well-dressed, she was clean, she was respectful and engaging.
She was different.
But our society and our system of governance is not set up for different. Rules and policies are crafted for the many, not the few.
People like Grace complicate the debate.
Kelsey Peters of Santa Rosa, right, with her two children, Maddy Iglehart, 10, and Izzy Iglehart, 8, all look at a memorial in honor of Ellynn Grace Cole, near the area where Grace once lived while she was homeless, in Steele Lane Park, Santa Rosa, Thursday, Aug. 1, 2024. Ellynn Grace Cole died in Steele Lane Park on June 26, 2024. (Darryl Bush / for The Press Democrat)
Jennifer Hainstock at the county administrative offices didn’t have success locating Grace’s relatives either. Neighbor Vicky Kumpfer agreed to pay $1,800 for Grace to be cremated and take possession of her ashes. If she hadn’t, a county fund would have been used and the ashes would have been laid to rest in Pleasant Hills Memorial Park in Sebastopol.
There would have been no personalized marker, no name at all. That was unacceptable to Kumpfer. “It was to see that she not go in an unmarked grave, if you will,” she said. “I figured she deserved more.”
Kumpfer held a second memorial service. She again set up a table with fruit and sparkling water, cheese and crackers, and a berry pie. At the back of the table was a black, rectangular container roughly the size of a shoe box with a tightly wrapped bag of ashes inside. The sticker on the front read:
Ellynn Grace Cole
DOB: 8/14/1964
DOD: 6/26/2024
Kumpfer brought brightly colored bags and poured a small amount of Grace’s ashes into bags for those who wanted them. Donations from Grace’s friends reimbursed Kumpfer for the cost of the cremation.
The contributions brought Kumpfer to tears. “I couldn’t handle it. The stories they would have. Short stories in terms of interactions with her, allowing them to express their love for her was a really big part of it.”
Stories.
Grace told us a story of who she was. And in her telling and in the way she lived, we saw in her who we needed her to be.
In interviews with more than 20 people over the course of 18 months, people who knew Grace repeated the same details. She grew up on the East Coast. She was well educated. She’d been devastated by the death of her mother and was a somewhat recent follower of Jesus.
But were the stories she told us about her mother and brothers, her education, her journey west, true? And, perhaps more importantly, does it matter?
Or is her impact on her community — the connections she made here, the way she lived her life and forged relationships with people — the real story?
To the art collector who paid for a stone Grace painted, does it matter if the name she signed on the back was not her given name? To the woman wrestling with the pain of a destructive relationship, is Grace’s wise counsel diminished in any way if that was not her true name? Does the courtesy clerk at Safeway who unburdened her cares about her mother’s mental health issues to a woman she called Grace gain less solace if that in fact was not her name?
And are the countless, truly countless, folks who walked through Steele Lane Park or met her at a coffee shop any less enriched by the conversations they had if she chose to go by a name other than the one given to her at birth six decades ago?
Grace lived as she wanted to and told us her story as she wanted it to be told. No more, no less.
And in turn, we poured our own needs onto her, making her who we needed her to be.
In death, Grace’s story ends. This is what she left us.
Last August, when news broke that wild pigs had ransacked the grounds of a Geyserville school, locals took notice. First the pigs tore up the baseball fields. Then, when school officials erected fencing to keep them away, they took to the rest of the campus, including the neatly manicured lawns by the front entry.
Perhaps we shouldn’t be so quick to blame the pigs. Like all animals, they’re just trying to get by. And we were the ones that brought them here to begin with. In the early 1700s, Russian and Spanish settlers introduced domestic pigs to California as livestock. Some of them went feral and later mated with European wild boars imported by a Monterey County landowner in the 1920s. (Whoops.) Today their hybrid progeny are well established throughout the state.
Like most successful invasive species, wild pigs (Sus scrofa) are survivors. They’re highly adaptable omnivores who like to dig for roots and tubers and are considered very intelligent. Hunting wild pigs in designated areas of the county has long been legal — and homemade wild pork sausage is a holiday tradition for some rural residents.
The herd of Watusi cattle at Safari West in Santa Rosa adopted a wild boar piglet in 2012. The cattle are native to Africa where they are traded as currency, and signify tribal status. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Their numbers, however, do not appear to be under threat. Granted, no one really knows how many wild pigs there are in Sonoma County, says Santa Rosa’s Stacy Martinelli, an environmental scientist with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. The department doesn’t survey the wild pig population here or anywhere else in the state, she explains. The best population estimates come from extrapolating figures on tag returns from sport hunters and tallying depredation permits. By both measures, Sonoma County’s population levels are likely a bit above the statewide average. “We do have our fair share of pigs, for sure,” Martinelli says.
In summer, when the landscape is drier, the pigs find an irresistible bonanza of places to snuffle around and dig in the loose, irrigated soils of vineyards and playgrounds. Fortunately for schools and vineyards — and unfortunately for ranchers — this time of year is a different story.
“As the winter comes on, when we start to get the rains, then that usually alleviates the problem on these irrigated landscapes. They start foraging more in open grassland,” Martinelli says. “When the soils get really saturated, then we see a lot of ranchlands being turfed up.”
Tucked away in a redwood forest in Willits stands what’s likely to be the world’s tallest living Christmas tree — only accessible via train.
The brilliantly lit and decorated coastal redwood, towering at 222 feet tall, is Mr. Skunk’s Giant Christmas Tree. The festive conifer belongs to the famous Skunk Train in Northern California, which is offering holiday train rides to visit the tree through Dec. 31 (except on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day).
Train rides depart from Skunk Train’s depot in Willits (299 E. Commercial St.) and wind through the redwoods to the grand Christmas tree. The trip includes complimentary hot chocolate and holiday cookies as well as Christmas music and games. Tickets are $68.35 per person, $12.49 per dog and free for infants 2 and under. VIP tickets are $100.65 per person and include advanced boarding, priority concessions and a commemorative gift. Learn more and purchase tickets on skunktrain.com.
According to Guinness World Records, the world’s tallest cut Christmas tree, recorded in December of 1950, was a 212-foot Douglas fir erected at Northgate Shopping Center in Seattle, Washington.
Since then, various other places have claimed to house the world’s tallest or largest holiday tree.
In 2019, the Citadel Outlets shopping center in Commerce, California, purported to have the world’s tallest Christmas tree, though it stood at just 115 feet. The city of Enid, Oklahoma, asserted to have the tallest, fresh-cut Christmas tree in 2021 — however, it stood at 140 feet (and came from a forest in Northern California).
No other known, fully decorated Christmas tree, living or cut, can top the Skunk Train’s 222-foot merry redwood. The only ones taller are artificial, like the 236-foot Christmas tree in Colombo, Sri Lanka — recorded in the Guinness Records in 2016 as the largest artificial Christmas tree.
Melissa DeForest hauls out her recently cut Douglas fir tree with her daughters Avery, 5, and Kaitlyn, 7, as part of “The Great Charlie Brown Christmas Tree Hunt” hosted by LandPaths at Riddell Preserve west of Healdsburg on Sunday, December 2, 2018. (BETH SCHLANKER/ The Press Democrat)
Each year on a preserve outside Healdsburg, a simple tradition — finding the perfect tree — takes on a greater purpose: protecting the forest from wildfires. Since 2017, nonprofit LandPaths has invited the public to Riddell Preserve for its annual “Great Charlie Brown Christmas Tree Hunt.” It’s a fun, eco-friendly event where visitors help thin the forest by cutting down a free holiday tree.
The scenic preserve has 400 acres of peaceful oak woodlands, majestic redwoods and rolling grasslands overlooking breathtaking Dry Creek Valley. Removing scraggly trees and invasive species reduces wildfire risk in overgrown areas made vulnerable by decades of fire suppression.
The day starts with a morning caravan up to the preserve, where drizzle often descends and dew is still visible on the forest floor. Pauline Hsu, who brought her two young children to last year’s hunt to cut down a live tree for the first time, says her family loved learning about the different species in the forest, including a massive lion’s mane mushroom they spotted.
Holiday sweaters and lots of smiles at the Riddell Preserve in Healdsburg for a tree hunt that helps the forest. (Miranda Carreño / Courtesy LandPaths)
After the hunt, the LandPaths stewardship team delivers dozens of trees to the Bayer Farm and Jeff’s Garden to be distributed for free to community members. Leilani Clark, LandPaths communication director, says the day fits right in with the group’s mission to get more families outdoors. “It feels really good, and it connects people with the land,” she says.
If you missed the annual Charlie Brown Tree Hunt on Dec. 7, LandPaths will host a Charlie Brown tree give-away from 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Dec. 14, at Bayer Farm in Santa Rosa. The event is first come, first served, and includes warm beverages as well as holiday crafting opportunities.
The nonprofit will also host a Winter Celebration from 3-6 p.m., Dec. 21, at Bayer Farm in Santa Rosa. Bring your favorite cultural dish to the celebration to win a prize. The event will include holiday music and a wreath-making station (materials and instruction provided).
Hacienda Beach, seen from the bridge over River Road, continues to be a hotspot in the ongoing dispute over public access to privately owned beaches along the Russian River in Forestville, Friday, July 5, 2024. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Wayne Speer remembers decades ago when logging trucks would roar past his Forestville Club at all hours. Today, the lumber mill is long gone. Even his dark, windowless dive bar is a throwback to another era.
But walk down Front Street (aka Highway 116) for a block or two, and you’ll see signs of a new spirit taking root in Forestville. Maybe it’s the trippy Ricky Watts mural in front of the Record Mill vinyl shop. Or the newly opened, Asian-inspired Bazaar Sonoma next door, serving an addictively simple egg salad sandwich with yuzo mayo and crispy lotus on milk bread.
Leading the charge, Sonoma Pizza Co. opened shop across the street two years ago, building an instant following with wood-fired pizzas stacked with everything from peaches and pork cheek bacon to mushrooms and fennel sausage. Under towering redwoods and glowing paper lanterns, the shop’s back deck is a great place to savor a night out.
Zhong Dumplings with BaSo homemade chili crisp and sweet pork dumplings from Bazaar Sonoma, BaSo | Restaurant & Konbini, Oct. 17, 2024, in Forestville. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Mushroom Mycopia pizza at Sonoma Pizza Co. in Forestville. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
“Forestville is kind of like the last area in Sonoma County to get gentrified,” says Brian Borchers, who owns Russian River Cycle Service, which makes custom bikes and rents to riders eager to get out on the 5.5-mile West County Regional Trail. Connecting Forestville to Sebastopol and Graton, the popular route runs past farms, vineyards and cafes.
Nightingale Breads owner Jessie Frost isn’t too worried about Forestville turning bougie, she says. “It’s still funky, and sweet and lively, but it’s also weird — and I mean that as in good weird. It’s west county weird.”
You want weird? Try naming a town “Forrestville” in the 1860s, after an early settler named Andrew Jackson Forrester, and then dropping the “r” and changing it to “Forestville.” True story.
People toast Ryme rosé at Ryme Cellars in Forestville. (Courtesy Ryme Cellars)
Turn right at Rick’s Auto, and you’ll wind up at Ryme Cellars, where husband-and-wife owners Ryan and Megan Glaab have a thing for Italian varieties like Vermentino, Fiano and Aglianico.
Come late fall and early winter, Forestville is one of those towns where everyone pitches in during the holidays. A guy nicknamed “Falcon Mike” hangs the Christmas lights along Front Street. Teaming up with the local chamber of commerce, Record Mill owner Chris McDonald started a new holiday town fair last year that returns on Dec. 7 with 30-40 local vendors and a roaming New Orleans brass band.
In the three years he’s owned the Record Mill, McDonald has seen nearly every walk of life coming in and out of the redwoods that surround the town. “It’s a drive-through town, but blue-collar locals are still here,” he says. “I feel like it’s one of those last west county towns that has a rural vibe that spans a full spectrum of people.”
Where to visit
A selection of breads from Nightingale Breads in Forestville. (Courtesy of Nightingale Breads)
Nightingale Breads
Loyal customers would probably riot if owner Jessie Frost discontinued her best-selling sliced seeded sourdough. For the holidays, Frost makes boxed panettone and a delicious gingerbread, adding Moonlight Brewing Company’s Death and Taxes black lager to the batter. 6665 Front St., 707-887-8887, nightingalebreads.com
Sonoma Pizza Co.
Try the wood-fired Pepperoni Nirvana pie prepared Chris’s Way with hot honey and ricotta, paired with local Joseph Jewel zinfandel. Or the “Italian Stallion” sandwich — what more could you need? 6615 Front St., 707820-1031, sonomapizzaco.com
Canneti Roadhouse
Chef-proprietor Francesso Torre makes his own olive oil, focaccia and fennel salame, and his classic “Tuna of the Chianti” swaps pork shoulder for fins. 6675 Front St., 707-887-2232, cannetiroadhouse.com
Dried Early Girl Tomato inflated with mozzarella espuma over basil oil and topped with caviar and fried curry leaf from chef Craig Wilmer at the Farmhouse Inn restaurant on River Road in Forestville, Friday, Aug. 18, 2023. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Farmhouse Inn
Last year, wine mogul Bill Foley purchased a majority stake in this exclusive luxury hotel (once bought out by Elon Musk for his birthday party) from siblings Joe and Catherine Bartolomei, who grew the 1873 vintage farmhouse into a world-class destination. 7871 River Road, 707-887-3300, farmhouseinn.com
River Bend Resort
A budget-friendly option with a giant Paul Bunyan statue out front. Where else can you spend the night in a 1970s VW Bus restored with hardwood floors? 11820 River Road, 707-887-7662, riverbendresort.net
Ryme Cellars
This Italian-leaning boutique winery hosts appointment-only tastings and super-tasty BBQ pickup parties. 6450 First St., 707820-8121, rymecellars.com
The Record Mill
Crate-digger alert: Owner Chris McDonald’s Japanese pressing of Bobby Charles’ self-titled 1976 album is a pretty good score. 6566 Front St., 707-820-7666
Extra-virgin olive oil from McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma. (McEvoy Ranch)
Olio nuovo (“new oil” in Italian) is the olive oil bottled and released immediately after the annual harvest, before the oil begins to mellow.
With a bright, lean, freshness, olio nuovo can range from robust to more mellow in flavor. The strongest are often described jokingly as “two-cough” selections, with a peppery bite that is highly prized.
Sonoma County’s olive harvest kicked off early this year, with the first of the season’s olives heading to the mill in early October. Harvest typically continues through early December. Two primary mills, McEvoy Ranch and Olivino, process olives for many of the county’s local farms, and there are also public mills in Sebastopol, Glen Ellen, Sonoma and Healdsburg. With a number of places to taste local olive oil, here are eight picks for the season.
Molly Jackal volunteered to help pick olives during olive harvest at Baker Lane Vineyards in Sebastopol, Nov. 8, 2018. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Baker Lane Estate
Stephen Singer’s 2024 Occidental Blend is not labeled “olio nuovo” but will be available soon enough after pressing that it is a de facto nuovo, with vivid flavors of artichoke, freshly mown hay and green apple. Online sales only. singer.wine
DaVero
The benchmark estate olio nuovo is sassy and elegant, with complex bitter and pepper flavors. 766 Westside Road, Healdsburg. 707-431-8000, davero.com
Figone Olive Co.
At their small shop on the plaza in the town of Sonoma, Figone releases an olio nuovo shortly after milling their blend of Spanish and Italian varieties.483 First St. W., Sonoma. 707-2829092, figoneoliveoil.com
Gold Ridge Organic Farms
Grower Brooke Hazen offers four olio nuovos: the classic Tuscan blend plus Picholine, Minerva and Arbequina single-variety oils. Hazen picks a bit later in the season, producing oils with a voluptuous, buttery texture. 3387 Canfield Road, Sebastopol. 707-823-3110, goldridgeorganicfarms.com
Olive oil pouring out of a spout into a large plastic container at Gold Ridge Organic Farms custom milling service facility in Sebastopol, Nov. 9, 2018. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Extra virgin olive oil from McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma. (Courtesy of McEvoy Ranch)
McEvoy Ranch
This olio nuovo evokes the subtle flavors of winter greens — think cardoons, chicories and dandelions — with a trail of peppery heat, a signature quality of the estate’s seven Tuscan cultivars.5935 Red Hill Road, Petaluma. 707-778-2307, mcevoyranch.com
Olivino
The olio nuovo is a blend of five Tuscan cultivars from a 2,500-tree orchard that straddles the border of Sonoma and Mendocino counties and is milled with a traditional grinding stone and gravity press.14160 Mountain House Road, Hopland. 707-7441114, olivino.com
Preston Farm & Winery
Chaste Maiden Early Release Organic Olive Oil is a blend of 10 Italian and Spanish cultivars. Even in its youth, it is a delicate oil, with less of the peppery heat that defines many other oils.9282 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. 707433-3372, prestonfarmandwinery.com
The Olive Press
The olio nuovo is made from the Spanish cultivar Arbequina, which hints of freshly mown grass, artichoke, apple and banana. 24724 Arnold Drive, Sonoma. 707-939-8900, theolivepress.com
Spud Point Marina in Bodega Bay. (Mariah Harkey/Courtesy Sonoma County Tourism)
Windblown locals know when the best weather rolls through this gorgeous coastal hamlet. “Fall and winter is probably my favorite time of the year because you don’t have all the fog like you do in the summer,” says Shona Campbell, who recently opened Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf with her husband Brandon Guenther, bringing a new iteration of their popular Valley Ford seafood restaurant to the coast.
“Also, it’s more locals and less traffic in the fall and winter,” says Campbell, who also serves as president of the local chamber of commerce.
A boom-and-bust town that seems to ride the waves of the latest tourist or fishing season, there’s something still delightfully old-school about Bodega Bay. You can see it in the weather-beaten, yellow fishermen statues, the kite shops, the salt-water taffy shops (watermelon is the best-selling flavor at pink-and-white-striped Patrick’s of Bodega Bay) and the glass-encased shark jaws hanging on the wall at the Tides Wharf and Restaurant.
A beer with the Captain’s Platter, served with Dungeness crab, calamari, beer-battered shrimp, rock cod and fries. At Rocker Oysterfeller’s at Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay on Friday, Aug. 23, 2024. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Underneath the tourist kitsch, there’s still an authentic fishing village, even if it’s just barely hanging on by a 15-pound microfilament. The last two salmon seasons have been canceled. Every fall, the opening of crab season seems to get pushed back by state fish and game department officials wary of long crab-trap lines entangling migrating whales.
“We’re having a really hard time getting by,” says fisherman Tony Anello, who has been fishing for 56 years, and recently sold his boat, the Annabelle. He remembers when there were more than 100 boats fishing out of Spud Point Marina. Now, there are maybe 20, he says.
One of the smartest things he ever did was open Spud Point Crab Co. with his wife Carol Anello. The clam chowder that you see steaming in pots in the front has won nearly every tasting competition ever entered, and the crab sandwiches melt in your mouth. “Thank God for that, because if I had to count on fishing again, I would never be able to make it,” says Tony Anello.
Fishing boats at Spud Point Harbor in Bodega Bay. (Kim Carroll/Sonoma Magazine)
Getting into the holiday spirit, Campbell and Guenther are planning to host a series of New Orleans-style, three-course réveillon dinners at Rocker Oysterfeller’s throughout the month of December — without a doubt, oyster stew will be on the menu.
The most convenient place to stay on the main drag is The Inn at the Tides, especially if you’re one of those Hitchcock fans who can’t resist watching a looping video of Tippi Hedren renting a boat (in her fur coat) at the Tides in the 1963 film “The Birds.” From the hotel, it’s a short drive to the trailhead for the Pinnacle Gulch Coastal Access Trail, which leads a half-mile down to the beach along a narrow ravine. At low tide, you can hook up with the Shorttail Gulch Trail and make it a 1.9-mile loop, or wander down to Doran Beach in the other direction.
If four legs suits you better, hop on a horse and choose from beach rides, sunset ridge rides and wetlands expeditions offered through Five Brooks Bodega Bay equine outfit.
But sometimes the best thing to do is nothing at all. “I think people who come here are looking for relaxation, and some good Pacific air,” says Campbell. “It’s just a quiet, little village.”
Where to visit
Head to Spud Point Crab Co. and pick up delicious clam chowder, best enjoyed overlooking the ocean at Bodega Head. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
A sunset horseback ride at Chanslor Ranch in Bodega Bay. (Courtesy Sonoma County Tourism)
Spud Point Crab Co.
When the crab season is delayed in Bodega Bay, the Anellos source their crustaceans from either California fishermen plying in-season waters above Fort Bragg or from Oregon and Washington fisheries. 1910 Westshore Road, 707-875-9472, spudpointcrabco.com
Rocker Oysterfeller’s
This Southern-style roadhouse serves Louisiana hot barbecue oysters, barbecue shrimp, and shrimp and grits. 595 Highway 1, 707-772-5670, rockeroysterfellers.com
The Inn at the Tides
Perched on a hill above the Tides Wharf and Restaurant, the 86-room hotel offers sweeping views of the bay. 800 Highway 1. 707-875-2751, innatthetides.com
Pinnacle Gulch Coastal Access
Enjoy the recent $50,000 renovation of a 101-step stairway along this secluded beach trail. 20600 Mockingbird Road, 707-875-3540, parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov
Five Brooks Bodega Bay
This wide-roaming equine outfit also offers horse-and-kayak combo trips. Some rides cross through newly preserved public lands at nearby Chanslor Ranch. 2660 Highway 1, 707-589-5040, fivebrooksbodegabay.com